1 | Linear model | Circular model | ||||||||||||||||||
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2 | Subcategory | Indicators | India | China | Bangladesh | Austria | Spain | Italy | Portugal | Finland | ||||||||||
3 | Freedom of association and collective bargaining | Collective bargain coverage | The right to collective bargaining is recognised by law but strictly regulated. In respect of the threshold for collective bargaining negotiations, the Industrial Relations Code established a requirement of sixty-six (66) per cent before a union can negotiate a collective agreement or perform its representative functions. Human freedom index 6.39. | The right to collective bargaining is not protected in law. China has the 15th worst human freedom index in the world (5.57/10 in 2021). | The right to collective bargaining is recognised by law. Some sectors have a ban on collective bargaining. Human freedomindex 5.75 | The right to collective bargaining is enshrined in the Constitution. Human freedom index 8.67 | The right to collective bargaining is enshrined in the Constitution. Human freedom index 8.56 | The right to collective bargaining is enshrined in the Constitution. HFI 8.49 | The right to collective bargaining is enshrined in the Constitution and recognised by law. There are no precise and predetermined criteria to evalulate the representativity of unions.The ILO has pointed out that the legislation should be amended in order to avoid the exclusion of certain representative organisations from these bodies in the future. HFI 8.69 | The right to collective bargaining is recognised by law.HFI 8.85 (6th) | EU labour laws and regulations have set the minimum requirements for a sustainable working environment and are now applied in all Member States. | Cotton risks: Over 60% of cotton is produced by smallholder farmers in developing countries, who are some of the poorest and most vulnerable in the world. Cotton provides income to 1 billion people. cotton’s history is tightly wound with the history of capitalism, colonialism, exploitation and industrialisation that continues to drive the fashion industry today. Forced labor (China), health risks (chemical pesticides), financial hardship (dept, climate change > widely reported to contribute to India’s farmer suicide epidemic). https://www.fashionrevolution.org/standing-up-for-the-farmers-who-grow-our-cotton/ http://cottonupguide.org/why-source-sustainable-cotton/cotton-at-a-glance/ | Polyester risks: microplastics chemicals (antimony, cobalt, manganese salts, sodium bromide, and titanium dioxide) | |||||||
4 | Trade unions | The right to freedom of association is enshrined in the Constitution AND regulated by a Labour code. The law prohibits anti-union discrimination, but does not provide means of protectin against it. 2001 Trade unions act, the union has represent min of 100 workers or 10% of the workforce. Anti-union discrimination at BASF | The right to freedom of association is recognised by law but strictly regulated. The law permits anti-union discrimination. Only one tare union All China Federation of Trade Unions (ACFTU) recognised by law. It excercises financial control over all unions. Workers are not free to join or form trade unions of the choice. | The right to freedom of association is enshrined in the Constitution. The right to freedom of association is regulated by law. The law prohibits anti-union discrimination, but does not provide adequate means of protection against it. only workers on permanent contracts can be eligible to be a member of the executive of a union, and creates the possibility of further delays to registration while employment status of executive members is checked. Membership of a union is restricted only to workers currently working at an establishment, meaning that loss of employment also results in the end of a worker's membership of the union. Some tades are prohibited to join a trade union. | The right to freedom of association is enshrined in the Constitution. The law prohibits anti-union discrimination strikes and lockouts are essentially illegal actions, because in most cases they represent breaches of employment contracts. | The right to freedom of association is enshrined in the Constitution. The law prohibits anti-union discrimination. Judges, magistrates and prosecutors are prohibited to join a union or a union of their choice. | The right to freedom of association is enshrined in the Constitution. The law prohibits anti-union discrimination, but does not provide adequate means of protection against it. | The right to freedom of association is enshrined in the Constitution. The right to freedom of association is regulated by a Labour Code. The law prohibits anti-union discrimination.. | The right to freedom of association is enshrined in the Constitution. The law prohibits anti-union discrimination. | Social pressures of the fashion industry Lack of transparency > social inequalities Low level of awareness of extending use and dispose Psychological pressure to overconsume in circular ecosystem lack of transparency lack of awerenss norm to consume working conditions in waste management | Positive contributions of circular fashion ecosystems: New and improved enterprise design, such as business models related to reuse, repair, rental and recycling, can provide extensive opportunities for the job market Extending the lifetime of a garment can become a core CFE (circular fashion ecosystems) circular strategy. Avoiding the extraction of new raw materials can reduce the environmental footprint of the fashion industry Through decentralised and distributed leadership, the fashion industry can instil innovation within communities. The fashion sector employs a large number of workers from underrepresented groups across global value chains. In current systems, access to wealth and prosperity is often related to socioeconomic status, which in turn can be affected by citizens’ place of residence. Kuluttajien toiveiden ennakointi voi johtaa siihen, että tuotanto vastaa kysyntää tulevaisuudessa paremmin. | |||||||||
5 | Evidence of international conventions and agreements | 4/10 ILO conventions on labor rights etc. ratified | ILO C087 ILO C098 | ILO C087 ILO C098 | ILO C087 ILO C098 | ILO C087 ILO C098 | ILO C087 ILO C098 | ILO C087 ILO C098 | ||||||||||||
6 | worker's rights | The right to strike is recpgnised but strictly regulated. Extensive notice periods for striking. Prohibitation of strikes in certain context. Under article 25U of the Industrial Disputes Act, any person who commits any unfair labour practice, which includes participating in strike action, can be sentenced to prison for a term of up to six months or with fine. Under articles 5 and 6 of the Essential Services Maintenance Act, workers involved in a strike which is deemed illegal can be sentenced to jail for up to six months, while strike organisers are punishable with imprisonment for a term of up to one year, or with a fine. Under section 10 of the Essential Services Maintenance Act, any police officer may arrest without warrant any person who is reasonably suspected of having committed any offence under this Act. | The right to strike is prohibited. It was removed inn 1982. The Government frequently uses public order laws to crack down on legal activists and trade unionists. It is not possible for a worker to participate in a legitimate strike or demonstration without violating Chinese law that prohibits the disturbance of public order. In addition, it is common for the prosecutor and the court to view industrial actions taken by workers as public security violations rather than as the exercise of fundamental rights. | The right to strike is recognised by law but strictly regulated. Strikes are not allowed in new (less that 3 y) establishments. Go-slows are prohibited. The government can ban a strike that has been going on more than 30 days, if it involves public service/or threat to national interest. There is a strike ban for export psocessing zone workers. Many incidents where workers have demanded wages or were protesting or striking(e.g. after the disclosure of a factory) and the police acted violently. | The right to strike is enshrined in the Constitution. | The right to strike is enshrined in the Constitution. The requirements of minimum service are set by public administration issue decisions. These requirements have been criticised as being abusive due to excessive scope and lack of justification. | The right to strike is enshrined in the Constitution. | The right to strike is enshrined in the Constitution. The right to strike is regulated by a Labour Code. Wildcat strikes are prohibited, even if not by law. | The right to strike is recognised in the Labour Law. | |||||||||||
7 | Child labor | Evidence of child labor | India amended the Child Labour Act of 1986 was recently amended. Possibly the biggest problem is an exception in the law that says that children under 14 may help their family after school with work or may work in a ‘family enterprises’. Minimum age 15 1,7% child labour | Minimum age 16 | Yes, 7%. 3.5 million child workers. Minimum age 14, limited to spesific branches, only in force on 220323 | Minimum age for 15 years | Minimum age 16 | Minimum age 15 | Minimum age 16 | Minimum age 15 | ||||||||||
8 | Evidence of international conventions and agreements | ILO con. no 138 | ILO con. No 138 | ILO con. no 138 (2023) | ILO convention no 138 | ILO con. No 138 | ILO con no 138 | ILO con. No 138 | ILO con. No 138 | |||||||||||
9 | Fair salary | Living wage/Minimum wage | ILO CO026 Minimum wage 12,250 rupees, living wage 29,323 rupees | ILO CO026 Minimum wage RMB1000-2190/m (141-309e) Living wage about 475$/month | in the garment industry the minimum wage is 5,300 (n. 51e) taka per month Living wage about 271$/month | ILO CO026 1200e/m | ILO CO026 ILO C131 Minimum wage 764,40e/m | ILO CO026 Minimum wage not government regulated, sector by sector | ILO CO026 ILO C131 Minimum wage 618,33e/m | There is no national minimum wage in Finland; but the law requires all employers,including nonunionized ones,to pay minimum wages agreed to in collective bargaining agreements,and almost all workers are covered under such arrangements. | ||||||||||
10 | Worker poverty | 93% of the workers were pushed below the poverty line 2020 in 2020 over 79,000 workers were denied wages due to pandemic (non-payment of existing orders) Pre-pandemic period most workers reported not receiving any over-time payment As the debt has risen, consumption has dropped and wages have gone up but not as much as debt. The wages are below international poverty line and living wage Risk of modern slavery 55% | Risk of modern slavery 50% | 99% of workers reported wage thefts Wages under poverty line Risk of modern slavery 50% | Risk of modern slavery 3% | Risk of modern slavery 12% | Risk of modern slavery 28% | Risk of modern slavery 8% | Risk of modern slavery 8% | |||||||||||
11 | Working hours | Excessive working time | Workers reported extreme working hours 11h/day in Tamil Nadu excessive overtime seems to have become an institutionalised phenomenon in the Indian grament industry | |||||||||||||||||
12 | Working time conditions | ILO C001 (working hours shall not exceed 9h/day or 48h/week) | max 12h/d and 60h/w According to the Working Time Act, overtime is to be remunerated with a financial bonus or time credit | ILO C001 (working hours shall not exceed 8h/day or 48h/week) Workers may work a maximum of 80 overtime hours per year. | An employer may require a worker to work overtime, but this must not exceed 25% of the agreed weekly hours. Overtime is paid at a rate that is 15% more than actual full hourly pay. | ILO C001 (working hours shall not exceed 8h/day or 48h/week) Each worker may work overtime only for a maximum of 150 hours a year in medium-sized and large companies, or 175 hours a year in micro and small companies. Increased pay work overtime | max 40 h/w. Overtime may only be worked if the employee consents to it each time | |||||||||||||
13 | Forced labor | Risk of forced labor | Yes Human trafficing | Yes, human trafficing Forced labor in labor camps (uyghurs) | Yes, human trafficing, undocumented workers | |||||||||||||||
14 | Evidence of forced labor | Tamil Nadu, 11 hours/day, forcing workers to work beyond legally allowed working hours | Uyhgurs | |||||||||||||||||
15 | Equal opportunities/discrimination | Female participation | Female labour participation rate in India fell to 16.1% during the July-September 2020 quarter, the lowest among the major economies, a government report said, reflecting the impact of pandemic and a widening job crisis. In 2021 the ratio of femlae to male participation was 27,4% | Ratio of female to male participation rate 44,3% | Ratio of female to male participation rate 82,9% | Ratio of female to male participation rate 83,8% | Ratio of female to male participation rate 84,4% | In 2010 the government also proceeded to extending the retirement age for female public servants from 60 to 65, again without prior consultation with the social partners. Ratio of female to male participation rate 69,3% | Ratio of female to male participation rate 86,8% | Ratio of female to male participation rate 88,2% | ||||||||||
16 | Economic participation and opportunity | Youth unemployment rate ratio of female to male 94,1% A woman cannot work at night in the same way as a man A woman cannot work in an industrial job the same way as a man Pay indicator score 25 Global gender gap index 0,629, especially unequal in terms of economic participation and opportunity | Youth unemployment rate ratio of female to male 83,6% Women cannot work in a dangerous job or industrial job like men Global gender gap index 0,714, especially unequal in terms of economic participation and opportunity | Youth unemployment rate ratio of female to male 150,8% Women cannot work in a dangerous job or industrial job like men Law does not prohibit discrimination in employment based on gender Global gender gap index 0,682 | Youth unemployment rate ratio of female to male 84,7% Pay indicator score 100 Global gender gap index 0,781 | Youth unemployment rate ratio of female to male 106,7% Pay indicator score 100 Global gender gap index 0,788 | Youth unemployment rate ratio of female to male 113,6% Pay indicator score 100 Global gender gap index 0,720 | Youth unemployment rate ratio of female to male 116,1% Pay indicator score 100 Gender gap index 0,766 | Youth unemployment rate ratio of female to male 84,5% Pay indicator score 100 Global gender gap index 0,860 (max1), still there's more to be done in equal economic participation and opportunity, and health and survival | |||||||||||
17 | Equal pay | Pay indicator score 25 (occupational segregation and gender wage gap) | Pay indicator score 25 | Pay indicator score 25 | Pay indicator score 100 | Pay indicator score 100 | Pay indicator score 100 | Pay indicator score 100 | Pay indicator score 100 | |||||||||||
18 | Health and safety | Occupational safety and health | Political instability and possibility for violence (high risk) | ILO C155 ratified High risk for political instability and violence | 90% said their jobs were impacting their heath, with issues including damaged eyesight, injuries to hands and feet, severe back pain, exhaustion and depression. Political instability and possibility for violence (high risk) | |||||||||||||||
19 | Social benefits/security | Social security expenditures | There's EPF and ESI as social security benefits, the access to these dropped in 2020 march | ILO C118 (maternity benefit, employment injury benefit) | ILO C102 (medical care, unemployment, old-age, family, maternity benefit) | ILO 102 (unemployment, old-age, materinity benefit) | ILO C102 (medical care, survivor's benefit) | ILO C118 (medical care, sickness and employment benefit) | ||||||||||||
20 | Paid time-off | No paid leave for fathers No paid parental leave | No paid parental leave | paid annual leave No paid leave for fathers No paid parental leave | Paid parental leave | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | |||||||||||
21 | Employment relationship | Written contract | Often lack of proper contracts and proof of empolyment Human trafficing | 9% has no contract | 8% has no contract | 13% has no contract | 13% has no contract | 5% has no contract | ||||||||||||
22 | Sexual harrasment / gender based violence | Sexual harrasment / gender based violence incidents | Women who experienced sexual violence before age 22 3,2% Dindigul agreement to prevent gender based violence (dalit women working in tamil nadu, covers 5000 people) | Tivoli Apparels Ltd, 2022, harrassment incident. 80% of garmetn workers have experienced or witnessed sexual violence and harrasment at work | ||||||||||||||||
23 | Smallholders including farmers | livelihood and wellbeing | a lot of vulnerable empoyment meaning family and self-employed 74% of people Hard if not impossible to find infromation form public data | Hard if not impossible to find infromation form public data | 52% in vulnerable employment Hard if not impossible to find infromation form public data | Hard if not impossible to find infromation form public data | Hard if not impossible to find infromation form public data | Hard if not impossible to find infromation form public data | Hard if not impossible to find infromation form public data | Hard if not impossible to find infromation form public data | ||||||||||
24 | inclusiveness | |||||||||||||||||||
25 | productivity | |||||||||||||||||||
26 | access to service | |||||||||||||||||||
27 | trading relationships | |||||||||||||||||||
28 | next generation farmers |
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2 | Subcategory | Indicators | India | China | Bangladesh | Austria | Spain | Italy | Portugal | Finland | ||
3 | Public commitment to sustainability issues | Legal obligation on public sustainability reporting | yes | yes | yes | yes | yes | yes | yes | yes | SDG's | |
4 | Contribution to economic development | Economic situation (salary) | ||||||||||
5 | Prevention and mitigation or armed conflicts | Ongoing conflicts | violence against Dalits and Adivasis continued | none | none | none | none | none | none | |||
6 | Corruption | Risk of corruption | yes, CPI 40/100 | yes, CPI 45/100 | yes, CPI 26/100 | CPI 74/100 (decreasing) | CPI 61/100 | CPI 56/100 | CPI 62/100 | CPI 88/100 (very good) | ||
7 | Ethical treatment of animals | Law on fair treatment of animals | ? | |||||||||
8 | Poverty alleviation | Commitment to reduce poverty | sdg's | sdg's | sdg's | sdg's | sdg's | sdg's | sdg's | sdg's |