RV14 Master list of common errors
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DescriptionVAF thread referenceAuthorAdditional Comments
 Step 4 Figure 31 3/32 inch = 27.8mm in the current picture [2.75 mm] is writtenM SandqvistRev 1 Date 05/01/14           [I think this was fixed on rev 1 so I vote to remove from list] Any one second?  (PF)
Emp 06-04 (VS)Step 4Do not dimple the holes that are left open (these are for empennage fairing)Revision 0stockmanreefThe fairing will be counter sunk
Emp 07-02.Figure 2Dotted line shows fold, remove hatched area extending to bend on the trailing endRocky005Failure to remove the hatched area results in rudder ends being too openAB
Emp 07-03Step 32 holes are missing from R606-PP and R00902-1 and R00917. Match drill these parts from remaining holes in R-405PDRevision 0Some holes may be missing due to use of an earlier revision of the part. Match drill using the holes in R-405PDAB
Emp 07-05 (RUD)Figure 2Rivet callout for (6) AN470AD4-6. Found to be too short so used AN470AD4-8s.http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=105667&page=2McGrawLooks like this was fixed in Rev 1 (PF)AB
Emp 07-07Step 2, NOTE:To drill perpendicular to the cord line use the waste from the VA-140 and create a wedge by overhanging half (yes only half way) over the materialRevision 0Rocky005
Emp 07-07Step 8To machine countersink the holes on the R-916-1 Trailing Edge, again use the waste from the hatched area as a wedge but this time fully under the work piece.Rocky005
Emp 07-12Step 1Riveting the trailing edge.bobhope2505(Syrus)Be careful when handling the trailing edge strip--it's easy to bend. Keep it flat when drilling the countersinks. In addition to the process described in Sec. 5.7, I suggest setting 1/2 the rivets on one side and then checking for twist. I did and was alarmed to find almost 3/4" twist. I flipped the rudder over and set the rest of the rivets in the opposite direction. I ended up with 3/16" of twist, which is acceptable according to a post on this forum.
Emp 08-12Step 3 fig 1The rear spar assembly fits real nice the wrong way.
The cutout in the center of the spar flange is on the bottom.
The drawing doesn't show the notch clearly and I didn't notice it. I can't believe I did this.
Emp 09-07Step 4 Fig 3I may be the only one smart enough to have committed this mistake.  The directions clearly state "Cleco the aft half of the trim tab hinge to the bottom side of the trim tab spar top flange."  I guess I was looking at the picture when reading that statement, which looks more like you need to cleco it to the bottom flange of the spar, which is what I did.  The top and bottom hole patterns are different so if you make this mistake you will be ordering new hinge.
Emp 09-08Step 6Don't make the same mistake I made. Seeing the conflict between the fiberglass wing (elevator) tip and the trailing edge E-01423, I interpreted the sanding instructions to mean sand the trailing edge thin enough to fit INSIDE the wing tip body. Light bulb came on just afterwards, so I read ahead to the end of the plans showing where you trim a little bit off the wing tip to remedy this conflict. With my trailing edge now sanded way too thin on the end, I got to order a new trailing edge. $55 mistake.HiPlanesDrifter (Chuck Robertson)
Emp 09-09 (ELE)Step 6Make sure you break the trailing edges before you dimple the trailing edges of the skins. Additionally dimple the #30 holes in the close out tabs of the left skins with a 120 degree pop rivet dimple die.http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=855677#post855677 http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=109620HelicooperAdditionally ensure on page 09-10 step one you dimple the inboard sheer clip with the 120 degree pop rivet die.AB
Emp 09-15(ELE)Step1Only the areas partaining to bonding the E-00924 and E-01423 require scuffing as per Ken @ VansRevision 0Ron B.Basically skip the other areasAB
Emp 09-22Step 2Lift the skin and insert a small bucking bar, use the outer hole in the front spar to hold the barM SandqvistNo error, a tip
Emp 09-24Step 21/16 inch is not .3 mm. it should say 1.59mmM Sandqvist.3 is decimal 1/16
Emp 10-05Step 3 tri gear onlyAfter you remove the components you need to match drill the remaining holes that match the tie down bracket with the 1412A and 1412B bulkheads in order to be dimpled. Additionally do not dimple the holes just outside the tie down bracket on the 1412A and B bulkheads. It will interfer with the tie down bracket.Revision 0Helicooper
Emp 10-05Revision 0Ron B.
Emp 10-05Step 2I followed the picture and drilled the system hole in the right one to fit F-14115M Sandqvist
Emp 10-05Figure 3Calls for 2 -MS21055-L3. They were missing from the bag called out on my list, but Van's says they should be in bag 3030-1 , to which is missing from my list. Van's will be mailing them out.Revision 0Ron B.AB
Emp 10-12Fig 3
Step 2
Bottom flange of 1429 bellcrank ribs should dimpledJohnsonCan be done later, but easier when not riveted to bulkhead
Emp 10-13 and Emp 10-32Step 5Step 5 has you rivet all those parts to the bottom skin. There is no step in the plans to rivet the F-01429-R & L to F-01407 bulkhead. Van's says to rivet them together with Step 5. Also applies to the F-14131 to F-01407 bulkhead on page 10-32Revision 0AB
Emp 10-30Step 1Dimple (7) #30 holes . Do not Dimple the #30 hole in the lower right corner of skin, This is for a nut plate. There is an AN426AD3-3.5 to the left of the #30 hole.
Emp 11-07 and -08VS attach stepsClarification for VS attachment instructions for both models. On page 12-12 the instructions suggest removing the VS during the empennage fairing process. It would help if there was a note about this in section 11 since some people (like me) put off fiberglass work as long as possible.Revision 2J HartlineI did the steps on 12-12 with the VS in place since I had already torqued everything and didn't want to remove the VS unless I absolutely had to. Definitely awkward but got it done with another pair of hands. It would be much easier with the VS removed.
Emp-09-19Step 3Six holes are marked AN426AD3-3.5 DO NOT RIVET YET In the lower right of Figure 3 but are not called out subsequently to be riveted before the left elevator close out. This appears to be an omission as once the foam ribs are glued there is no way to introduce a bucking bar. IsochronBack rivet using the "Special bucking bar" before close out.
Note: In September 2013, wing section numbers changed adding +2 to the original chapter numbers. Please use the current chapter numbers, and if still using pre-9/13 plans, convert by adding 2 as you post. (e.g., Wing Ribs "old" section 12, "new" section 14).
Tail Kitstep
Tail KitEmp 06-02 (VS)Emp 06-02 (VS)Vans Revision Eff 15NOVIcarusBasically changes machine countersink to dimple, also modifies rivet callouts. AB
Tail Kit 06-04Step 3Disassemble all parts and deburr.RVelocityThis part should also include, Scuff the powder coating on the hinge brackets if you plan on painting them when the completed airplane is painted.
Wing Wing OP52A
Wing 16-02Step 7Dimpling the nutplate holes for the aft-most #8 screw dimple in figure 1 will crack the #8 screw dimple if you use a normal female dimple diePhillipsPrevention is simple. Use a narrow diameter female dimple die to dimple the #40 nutplate holes for the aft-most #8 screw dimple.
Wing 16-04Step 1The long piece goes against the top skin completely in the overlap. The shorter one goes on top of the long one as seen from the back side where you are working. The instructions say that the long piece goes on top of the short, but what is meant is that it goes on top as viewed from the top skin.
JDBostonInstructions sequence this so you should not make a mistake here, but I did so I am adding it.
Wing Kit (New chapter #'s)
WIng Lighting Harness for Sun Spot LX Aero LEDs, OP-52APage 2There are a number of confusing issues with the OP-52A plans. FIrst, the note at the top of page 2 says that for steps 1-10 you should refer to figure 1. There are only 7 steps, so one could reasonably question whether there is a page missing from the instructions or whether the note is in error. The note is in error. There are only 7 steps. Next, Stein seems to run out of wires with the colors indicated in the instructions. I saw this in the empennage kit, and here too as well. My L418 wire was supposed to be yellow, but in my harness it was white. Next, the L419 wire in step 5 gets a butt splice because it isn't used in this setup. One might question why you should keep it in the harness at all if it isn't used, and the only good reason for not removing it is in case you ever decide to change landing lights you might need this wire. And lastly, figure 1 shows that one of the terminals on the light is the "positive". Actually, the lights don't have any markings indicating one is positive, and in fact say it doesn't matter which you pick for positive or ground.
Wing pg 13-02Step 1, pargr.1Pay attention to caution note preceeding step 4. In addition, Fig-1 is an exact representation so be careful to not match-drill in the hole next to the rivet holes meant for the nutplates. See also Fig-1 on page 13-04. Drawing is "exact".http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=96616&highlight=channelDebovskyAB
Wing pg 13-03Step 1, pargr.1Use only the 8' J channel piece for this step. One 8' J-Channel will make 2 J Channel Short Pieces. The four 6' peices are used for the outobard leading edge and fuel tanksStockmanI think this should be associated with step 1 and 2 page 13-02 on the PDF document (PF)AB
Wing pg 13-03Step 4Before starting to rivet, all countersunk holes should be primed. I used a qtip for this, worked well. Also, you'll need to ream out the holes for the #8 screws.
Wing pg 13-04Step 5:Uncleco the lower (long and short) wing box J channels and roll them through 180 degrees. This means: roll them like a sausage on a barbeque and not swoppings ends.Recleco-ing to the upper flange will have the J channels facing away from the spar for drilling the three areas previously skipped. Vans support teamI think this is step 5 on PDF page 13-02 (PF)AB
Wing pg 13-05Step 2, pargr.2DebovskyAB
Wing pg 13-06Step 3, Fig-5Pay attention to caution note preceeding step 3. Mask the top and bottom first 2 forward holes with tape before dimpling.DebovskyI this is page 1402 step 3 WING PDF build docs  (PF)AB
Wing pg 14-02Step 3Be careful not to dimple the upper and lower rib tabs that fit under the spar flange.McColloughThe top flanges of the ribs get dimpled on p. 16-02, step 7 par. 3. There appears no logical reason why they cannot be dimpled on p. 14-02, except do not dimple the ribs that lie under the wing walk doublers. Read Section 16 closely before deciding to dimple the rib tops in Section 14.AB
Wing pg 14-02Step 3Dimpling upper flanges of all wing ribs except the inboard-most 4PhillipsMcCollough is correct.  That the plans have you dimple the upper flanges AFTER they have been riveted/bolted to the spar makes no sense.  Do it at the same time as in Step 3 on page 14-02.  The inboard-most four ribs are not dimpled due to the countersunk wingskin.  A conversation with Van's asking about dimpling the inboard 4 ribs (and doubler plates, and wing skin) is ok too as long as you realize that the rivet callouts will not be correct.  Per Mitch Lock from Van's, a longer rivet will be required.  Probably the best compromise is to dimple the wingskin and  countersink the doubler plates.  This way you get a consistent and smooth wingskin that locks into the doubler, but still connects to the inner 4 ribs as per the plans.
Wing pg 14-04 & -05Snap bushing call-outs are questionable. Refer to Section 19 (Wing System Routing) and study the plans before making a decision on snap bushing size and location. SB375-4 is best suited for Pitot/AOA lines. SB500-6 in not required all over right wing ribs. Adapt snap bushing size to wire harness size (get smaller from wing root to wing tip).Debovsky-
Wing pg 17-03Step 4Drilling the single J-stiffener hole 5/8 from the inboard most edge of the J-stiffener on both sides and clecoing the inboard most J-stiffener hole instead of the outboard most hole should remove this problem. The length of 59 3/8 is correct. Rev 1 of page 17-03 and 17-04 will depict this -AB (Older Comments below) Recommend waiting to fabricate the J-channel until you have the skin and ribs assembled in the stand so a proper measurement can me made. Following Vans plans will definitely cause you to be short.Tom023AB
Wing pg 18-04Step 3Says T-1005B for the two #19 dimples but looking at the piece and Figure 2, it is the T-1005C that has these two holes to dimple. The rest of the #19 holes are not dimpled. It also never tells you do dimple the T-1005B #40 holes but I think you must in order to take the called out rivets. Step 4 has the countersink you need to do to make it all fit.JDA_BTR
Wing pg 18-07Step 2Not really a "gotcha" but just be aware that even though the fuel senders look identical, they aren't. There should be a 385B stamped on one ground plane, and 385C stamped on the other of the two senders. You will know immediately if you have put the wrong sender in the tank because the screw holes won't line up and it will hold the sweeper mechanism at an angle.Phillips
Finishing kitstep
38-11/1211-1Make sure that the C-1409L and R are symmetrical. You should be able to measure the edge of the rivet holes to the flange. If you cut the parts out and cleco on C-01427 it will be obvious if there is a difference when you look at how are the edge of 1427 is from the flange.stockmanreefIf the part moves when pressed to make the flanges, then the parts will not be symmetrical and you won'e be able to get a good fit along the fuselage on 38-12 Step 6.
engine mountmake sure that as soon as you get the finishing kit to put the engine mount on a very flat surface. I used a granite counter top. Make sure that all top two bolt flanges are completely flat with the surface. If not it will be a huge PITA trying to put the engine mount on. In addition it will not flatten out with mounted and therefore there will be some tension on the weld, which I think is bad thing lon term.stockmanreefengine mount was replaced by vans'
Fuse 25-03the holes front lower portion in the F-01438 cover ribs and the F-01451 (next to the large lightning hole) are not big enough to fit the connector from the wire harness (WH-00125) from Vans. Apparently Van's tried to fix this by putting a notch in the hole to make is a bit bigger (see Section 55). Apparently the hole is still not big eoungh to fit the connector when wires are in place.stockmanreefMake the holes big enough to fit the the 8 pin micro molex connector before installing the ribs. No idea why Van/s has not corrected this.
Fuse 26-10/11Step 0Make sure that the drain holes (holes which are NOT DIMPLED) are on the correct side. It is unclear if the piece is symmetrical (except for these holes and the antenna hole).stockmanthe piece costs $98 and then shipping, which won't be cheap.
Fuse 27-03Step 10Instructions state to use AN426AD3-7.  But when the two halves of the bearing bracket are joined with the bearing clamped in and the rivets are double flush driven, there is too much shop head left over.  The AN426AD3-6 rivets work betterRev 0GahannaflyerRev 01 now page 25-03 (PF)AB
Fuse 31-05Step 4Instructions say to drill the control column bearings to attach with a #30 drill, and then in the illustration use an AN470AD3-6 rivet.  Obviously this is too large and an AN470AD4-6 is required.Rev 0GahannaflyerRev 01 now page 29-05 AN470AD4-6 now called for.  I vote to remove this from the list any seconds?  (PF)AB
Finish 41-03Step 0CAUTION: Verify that the plugs are installed as shown on Page 18-09, Figure 2 before installing the wings. It will not be possible to install the plugs after the wings are installed!REV 0+Vans support teamAB
Fuse 29-08step 8
Fig 4 only describes top LONGERON make sure you identify on the rear of the bottom LONGERON the holes that align with the shaded area on the skin where it says not to dimple. I think there is about 14 holes on the bottom LONGERON that should not be countersunksalto AB
Fuse 35-17step 4Save yourself potential trouble at the end of the section by checking for clearance before attaching the MS21042-3 nut at step 4 on page 35-17. controlmake sure the rods do not bind against the corners of the block no matter how the rods are turned
Fuse 35-18step 7 & 8Figure 5 is mislabaled, should be something like "Forward Top Skin Preparation"FloMo14Does not affect build, comment for clarification only
34general commentDO NOT install the flap crank before drilling the hole for the flap sensor motor (Section 54)StockmanreefEven if you don't plan to install the flap position sensor. Drilling this hole should be in Section 34. Who knows why it is not. You have to completely uninstall the flap crank to drill this hole. This is 1-2 hours of your life you will not get back
FWF 51-06Step 1 & 2AN912-12D is a reducer, not a pipe plug. Order F 1/4 Pipe Plug from Van's if necessaryR0Vans support teamAB
FWF 43-04Figure 2F 125 PIPE PLUG = F 1/8 PIPE PLUGR0Vans support teamAB
55-01generalRun the antenna wire through the bottom right 3/4" holes first and run the entire length to the front. The end won't fit through the bushing otherwise.stockmanreefNo impact to yield, just one less thing you have to do over.