| A | B | D | E | F | G | H | |
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1 | j | Step/Figure | Description | I may be the only one smart enough to have committed this mistake. The directions clearly state "Cleco the aft half of the trim tab hinge to the bottom side of the trim tab spar top flange." I guess I was looking at the picture when reading that statement, which looks more like you need to cleco it to the bottom flange of the spar, which is what I did. The top and bottom hole patterns are different so if you make this mistake you will be ordering new hinge. | Author | Additional Comments | |
2 | Step 4 Figure 3 | 1 3/32 inch = 27.8mm in the current picture [2.75 mm] is written | M Sandqvist | Rev 1 Date 05/01/14 [I think this was fixed on rev 1 so I vote to remove from list] Any one second? (PF) | |||
3 | 55-01 | general | Run the antenna wire through the bottom right 3/4" holes first and run the entire length to the front. The end won't fit through the bushing otherwise. | stockmanreef | No impact to yield, just one less thing you have to do over. | ||
4 | Avionics | Step/Figure | Description | ||||
5 | Emp 06-04 | Step 3 | Disassemble all parts and deburr. | RVelocity | This part should also include, Scuff the powder coating on the hinge brackets if you plan on painting them when the completed airplane is painted. | ||
6 | Emp 09-07 | Step 4, Fig 3 | |||||
7 | Emp 09-08 | Step 6 | Don't make the same mistake I made. Seeing the conflict between the fiberglass wing (elevator) tip and the trailing edge E-01423, I interpreted the sanding instructions to mean sand the trailing edge thin enough to fit INSIDE the wing tip body. Light bulb came on just afterwards, so I read ahead to the end of the plans showing where you trim a little bit off the wing tip to remedy this conflict. With my trailing edge now sanded way too thin on the end, I got to order a new trailing edge. $55 mistake. | / | HiPlanesDrifter (Chuck Robertson) | ||
8 | Emp 09-09 (ELE) | Step 6 | Make sure you break the trailing edges before you dimple the trailing edges of the skins. Additionally dimple the #30 holes in the close out tabs of the left skins with a 120 degree pop rivet dimple die. | http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=855677#post855677 http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=109620 | Helicooper | Additionally ensure on page 09-10 step one you dimple the inboard sheer clip with the 120 degree pop rivet die. | AB |
9 | Emp 09-15 (ELE) | Step1 | Only the areas partaining to bonding the E-00924 and E-01423 require scuffing as per Ken @ Vans | Revision 0 | Ron B. | Basically skip the other areas | AB |
10 | Emp 09-19 | Step 3 | Six holes are marked AN426AD3-3.5 DO NOT RIVET YET In the lower right of Figure 3 but are not called out subsequently to be riveted before the left elevator close out. This appears to be an omission as once the foam ribs are glued there is no way to introduce a bucking bar. | Isochron | Back rivet using the "Special bucking bar" before close out. | ||
11 | Emp 09-22 | Step 2 | Lift the skin and insert a small bucking bar, use the outer hole in the front spar to hold the bar | M Sandqvist | No error, a tip | ||
12 | Emp 09-24 | Step 2 | 1/16 inch is not .3 mm. it should say 1.59mm | M Sandqvist | .3 is decimal 1/16 | ||
13 | Emp 10-05 | Figure 3 | Calls for 2 -MS21055-L3. They were missing from the bag called out on my list, but Van's says they should be in bag 3030-1 , to which is missing from my list. Van's will be mailing them out. | Revision 0 | Ron B. | Removed on Rev 1 | AB |
14 | Emp 10-05 | Step 2 | I followed the picture and drilled the system hole in the right one to fit F-14115 | M Sandqvist | |||
15 | Emp 10-05 | Step 3, Tri Gear only | After you remove the components you need to match drill the remaining holes that match the tie down bracket with the 1412A and 1412B bulkheads in order to be dimpled. Additionally do not dimple the holes just outside the tie down bracket on the 1412A and B bulkheads. It will interfere with the tie down bracket. | Revision 0 | Helicooper | ||
16 | Emp 10-07 | Step 3 | Drawing needs to add to not dimple the #40 holes that are just outside of and underneath the F-01412D Tie Down Bracket bolt holes (Tri-Gear only). If you dimple these, then the tie down bracket will not sit flush on the F-01412-A & -B Bulkheads. | These #40 holes are correctly noted as do not dimple on the Tail Dragger plans page 10-06, Figure 2. | |||
17 | Emp 10-10 | Step 2 | Missing instruction to dimple the 8 #40 holes on the upper flange on the F-01410A. | alf | |||
18 | Emp 10-11 | Step 1 | Missing instruction to dimple the lower flange on the F-14115-1 Rudder Cable Bracket | Revision 2 | |||
19 | Emp 10-11 | Step 7 | Be careful here! It is just the two front holes that get enlarged to #12 for K1000-3 nutplates. | Revision 2 | |||
20 | Emp 10-12 | Step 2, Fig 3 | Bottom flange of 1429 bellcrank ribs should dimpled | Johnson | Can be done later, but easier when not riveted to bulkhead | ||
21 | Emp 10-13 and Emp 10-32 | Step 5 | Step 5 has you rivet all those parts to the bottom skin. There is no step in the plans to rivet the F-01429-R & L to F-01407 bulkhead. Van's says to rivet them together with Step 5. Also applies to the F-14131 to F-01407 bulkhead on page 10-32 | Revision 0 | FIXED ON REV 1 | AB | |
22 | Emp 10-20 | Step 1 | Recommend riveting the F-01473A Angle stiffners prior to installing the Rudder Stops. Not a lot of room to set the flush head rivets when the rudder stops are installed. | ||||
23 | Emp 10-26 | Step 2 | Step 1 says not to fully tighten, then Step 2 says to tighten the plastic tie wraps. | Revision 1 | Confusing directions on what gets tightened and when. | ||
24 | Emp 10-27 | Step 7 | The rivet callouts in Figure 2 are incorrect for 5 of the rivets used on the F-01411E Deck Doubler. Check their lengths before you rivet! | Revision 1 | |||
25 | Emp 10-29 | Step 3 | The rivet callouts in Figure 1 are incorrect for the forward-most 5 rivets that also hold the F-014131 Upper Aft Fuselage Rib, and the F-01475A Skin Doubler to the F-01475 Top Skin. These should be AN426AD3-4. | Revision 1 | |||
26 | Emp 10-30 | Step 1 | Dimple (7) #30 holes . Do not Dimple the #30 hole in the lower right corner of skin, This is for a nut plate. There is an AN426AD3-3.5 to the left of the #30 hole. | There also should be another NOTE to break the lower edges of the Top Side Skins. | |||
27 | Emp 11-07 and -08 | VS attach steps | Clarification for VS attachment instructions for both models. On page 12-12 the instructions suggest removing the VS during the empennage fairing process. It would help if there was a note about this in section 11 since some people (like me) put off fiberglass work as long as possible. | Revision 2 | J Hartline | I did the steps on 12-12 with the VS in place since I had already torqued everything and didn't want to remove the VS unless I absolutely had to. Definitely awkward but got it done with another pair of hands. It would be much easier with the VS removed. | |
28 | Empennage/Tailcone | Figure 4 | Emp 06-02 (VS) | Vans Revision Eff 15NOV | Icarus | Basically changes machine countersink to dimple, also modifies rivet callouts. | AB |
29 | Empennage/Tailcone | Step/Figure | Description | ||||
30 | engine mount | make sure that as soon as you get the finishing kit to put the engine mount on a very flat surface. I used a granite counter top. Make sure that all top two bolt flanges are completely flat with the surface. If not it will be a huge PITA trying to put the engine mount on. In addition it will not flatten out when mounted and therefore there will be some tension on the weld, which I think is bad thing lon term. | stockmanreef | engine mount was replaced by vans' | |||
31 | Finish 38-11/12 | 11-1 | Make sure that the C-01409L and R are symmetrical. You should be able to measure the edge of the rivet holes to the flange. If you cut the parts out and cleco on C-01427 it will be obvious if there is a difference when you look at how are the edge of 1427 is from the flange. | https://vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=160770 | stockmanreef | If the part moves when pressed to make the flanges, then the parts will not be symmetrical and you won'e be able to get a good fit along the fuselage on 38-12 Step 6. | |
32 | Finish 41-03 | Step 0 | CAUTION: Verify that the plugs are installed as shown on Page 18-09, Figure 2 before installing the wings. It will not be possible to install the plugs after the wings are installed! | REV 0+ | Vans support team | AB | |
33 | Finish Kit | Step/Figure | Description | ||||
34 | Firewall Forward | Step/Figure | Description | ||||
35 | Fuselage | Step/Figure | |||||
36 | Fuselage 25-03 | Step 10 | Instructions state to use AN426AD3-7. But when the two halves of the bearing bracket are joined with the bearing clamped in and the rivets are double flush driven, there is too much shop head left over. The AN426AD3-6 rivets work better | Rev 1 | Gahannaflyer | AB | |
37 | Fuselage 25-03 | the holes front lower portion in the F-01438 cover ribs and the F-01451 (next to the large lightning hole) are not big enough to fit the connector from the wire harness (WH-00125) from Vans. Apparently Van's tried to fix this by putting a notch in the hole to make is a bit bigger (see Section 55). Apparently the hole is still not big eoungh to fit the connector when wires are in place. | stockmanreef | Make the holes big enough to fit the the 8 pin micro molex connector before installing the ribs. No idea why Van/s has not corrected this. | |||
38 | Fuselage 26-11 | Step 13 | Riveting F-01443-L and -R calls for AN426AD4-4.5 rivets. These are not incuded. Answers in this forum was that VANS support replies that you should cut down 4-5 rivets. Another reply is "ordered some in between rivet sizes from Spencer Aircraft". | https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=192929 | |||
39 | Fuselage 26-14 | Step 0 | Make sure that the drain holes (holes which are NOT DIMPLED) are on the correct side. It is unclear if the piece is symmetrical (except for these holes and the antenna hole). | stockman | the piece costs $98 and then shipping, which won't be cheap. | ||
40 | Fuselage 27-04 | step 4 | Do not reference Figure 2 for which holes to not countersink on the firewall angles. The pair marked 'DO NOT RIVET' near the top of F-01401F-R are indicated one hole too close to the top end. There should be 5 countersunk holes starting at the top of the part. Follow the Note prior to Step 4. | Error found on page Rev 2, Date: 01/02/16. Drawing correction submitted to Van's engineering. Maybe it will be rolled into future drawing revs. | |||
41 | Fuselage 29-08 | Step 5 | The firewall flanges are purposely not dimpled so that you can use them to match drill the hinges. The problem is that there is no step or note that tells you to dimple them after the match drilling is complete. Make it step 12 on page 29-08 to dimple the flanges because if you don't then when you start to rivet the side skins on you will no longer have access to the flanges to dimple them. | ||||
42 | Fuselage 31-05 and 31-11 | On page 31-05 figure 1 shows the AN833-6D (the elbow fuel fitting that penetrates the firewall) clocked up 25 degrees from horizontal. On page 31-11 figures 2 and 3 have very different clocking angles for this same fitting depending on whether you are building the taildragger or tri-gear. The clocking angle found on page 31-05 IS NOT CORRECT. Use the clocking angle appropriate for your build found on page 31-11 instead. | |||||
43 | Fuselage 31-10 | Step 4 | Tube ended up too short even if following the plans. Maybee different lenght pump. Check length before cutting. | ||||
44 | Fuselage 32-08 | Step 5 | Rivets on aft flange of F-01482 should be AN470AD3-3 not AN426AD3-3 as shown | ||||
45 | Fuselage 34-02 Rev 0 | general comment | DO NOT install the flap crank before drilling the hole for the flap sensor motor (Section 54, Avionics Kit plans) | Stockmanreef | Even if you don't plan to install the flap position sensor. Drilling this hole should be in Section 34. Who knows why it is not. You have to completely uninstall the flap crank to drill this hole. This is 1-2 hours of your life you will not get back | ||
46 | Fuselage 35-17 | step 4 | Save yourself potential trouble at the end of the section by checking for clearance before attaching the MS21042-3 nut at step 4 on page 35-17. | control | make sure the rods do not bind against the corners of the block no matter how the rods are turned | ||
47 | Fuselage 35-18 | step 7 & 8 | Figure 5 is mislabaled, should be something like "Forward Top Skin Preparation" | FloMo14 | Does not affect build, comment for clarification only | ||
48 | FWF 43-04 | Figure 2 | F 125 PIPE PLUG = F 1/8 PIPE PLUG | R0 | Vans support team | AB | |
49 | FWF 51-06 | Step 1 & 2 | AN912-12D is a reducer, not a pipe plug. Order F 1/4 Pipe Plug from Van's if necessary | R0 | Vans support team | AB | |
50 | Note: In September 2013, wing section numbers changed adding +2 to the original chapter numbers. Please use the current chapter numbers, and if still using pre-9/13 plans, convert by adding 2 as you post. (e.g., Wing Ribs "old" section 12, "new" section 14). | ||||||
51 | Wing | Step/Figure | Description | ||||
52 | Wing 13-02 | Step 1, Para. 1 | Pay attention to caution note preceeding step 4. In addition, Fig-1 is an exact representation so be careful to not match-drill in the hole next to the rivet holes meant for the nutplates. See also Fig-1 on page 13-04. Drawing is "exact". | http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=96616&highlight=channel | Debovsky | AB | |
53 | Wing 13-02 | Step 1, Step 2 | Use only the 8' J channel piece for this step. One 8' J-Channel will make 2 J Channel Short Pieces. The four 6' peices are used for the outobard leading edge and fuel tanks | Stockman | Description | AB | |
54 | Wing 13-02 | Step 5 | Uncleco the lower (long and short) wing box J channels and roll them through 180 degrees. This means: roll them like a sausage on a barbeque and not swoppings ends.Recleco-ing to the upper flange will have the J channels facing away from the spar for drilling the three areas previously skipped. | Vans support team | AB | ||
55 | Wing 13-03 | Step 4 | Before starting to rivet, all countersunk holes should be primed. I used a qtip for this, worked well. Also, you'll need to ream out the holes for the #8 screws. | ||||
56 | Wing 13-05 | Step 2, Para. 2 | Debovsky | AB | |||
57 | Wing 14-02 | Step 3 | Be careful not to dimple the upper and lower rib tabs that fit under the spar flange. | McCollough | The top flanges of the ribs get dimpled on p. 16-02, step 7 par. 3. There appears no logical reason why they cannot be dimpled on p. 14-02, except do not dimple the ribs that lie under the wing walk doublers. Read Section 16 closely before deciding to dimple the rib tops in Section 14. | AB | |
58 | Wing 14-02 | Step 3 | Dimpling upper flanges of all wing ribs except the inboard-most 4 | Phillips | McCollough is correct. That the plans have you dimple the upper flanges AFTER they have been riveted/bolted to the spar makes no sense. Do it at the same time as in Step 3 on page 14-02. The inboard-most four ribs are not dimpled due to the countersunk wingskin. A conversation with Van's asking about dimpling the inboard 4 ribs (and doubler plates, and wing skin) is ok too as long as you realize that the rivet callouts will not be correct. Per Mitch Lock from Van's, a longer rivet will be required. Probably the best compromise is to dimple the wingskin and countersink the doubler plates. This way you get a consistent and smooth wingskin that locks into the doubler, but still connects to the inner 4 ribs as per the plans. | ||
59 | Wing 14-02 | Step 3, 2nd Par Fig 5 | Pay attention to caution note preceeding step 3. Mask the top and bottom first 2 forward holes with tape before dimpling. | Debovsky | AB | ||
60 | Wing 14-04 & 14-05 | Snap bushing call-outs are questionable. Refer to Section 19 (Wing System Routing) and study the plans before making a decision on snap bushing size and location. SB375-4 is best suited for Pitot/AOA lines. SB500-6 in not required all over right wing ribs. Adapt snap bushing size to wire harness size (get smaller from wing root to wing tip). | Debovsky | - | |||
61 | Wing 16-02 | Step 7 | Dimpling the nutplate holes for the aft-most #8 screw dimple in figure 1 will crack the #8 screw dimple if you use a normal female dimple die | Phillips | Prevention is simple. Use a narrow diameter female dimple die to dimple the #40 nutplate holes for the aft-most #8 screw dimple. | ||
62 | Wing 16-04 | Step 1 | The long piece goes against the top skin completely in the overlap. The shorter one goes on top of the long one as seen from the back side where you are working. The instructions say that the long piece goes on top of the short, but what is meant is that it goes on top as viewed from the top skin. | JDBoston | Instructions sequence this so you should not make a mistake here, but I did so I am adding it. | ||
63 | Wing 17-03 | Step 4 | Drilling the single J-stiffener hole 5/8 from the inboard most edge of the J-stiffener on both sides and clecoing the inboard most J-stiffener hole instead of the outboard most hole should remove this problem. The length of 59 3/8 is correct. Rev 1 of page 17-03 and 17-04 will depict this -AB (Older Comments below) Recommend waiting to fabricate the J-channel until you have the skin and ribs assembled in the stand so a proper measurement can me made. Following Vans plans will definitely cause you to be short. | Tom023 | AB | ||
64 | Wing 18-07 | Step 2 | Not really a "gotcha" but just be aware that even though the fuel senders look identical, they aren't. There should be a 385B stamped on one ground plane, and 385C stamped on the other of the two senders. You will know immediately if you have put the wrong sender in the tank because the screw holes won't line up and it will hold the sweeper mechanism at an angle. | Phillips | |||
65 | Wing 22-05 | Step 6 | Note that the skins have an inboard and an out board end, which I did not notice until I got to the next page and my top skin that was built for the LH aileron was actually the right but with the wrong configuration of inboard and outboard ribs (given the way I had dimpled it). It was an easy fix that just needed me to remove the outboard and inboard ribs and replace with opposite handed ones but something to watch. To check correct orientation I recommend quickly clecoeing the top and bottom skins to the spar and then marking the inside, TE, LE, IB and OB on the skins. | To check correct orientation I recommend quickly clecoeing the top and bottom skins to the spar and then marking the inside, TE, LE, IB and OB on the skins. | |||
66 | Wing 23-04 | Step 2 | Figs 1 & 2 aren’t that clear … it’s as though the dimension marks have been misaligned. The first set of holes should be 7/32" from the end of the tubes | Steve Hicks | It was eaier to just fix the diagram in this case than add the notes. although I hate to make any changes to the PDF Diagrams. I would rather Van's does it. Digital Plans available at the WIKI bellow. If you have not purchased a set of digital plans please do so, so that Van's still gets their $10 for the sale. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xu5p6f4l7tso79j/AABHaMhiVWFGoal2bU0ck0pJa?dl=0 | PF (HAL Pilot) | |
67 | Wing Lighting Harness for Sun Spot LX Aero LEDs, OP-52A | Page 2 | There are a number of confusing issues with the OP-52A plans. FIrst, the note at the top of page 2 says that for steps 1-10 you should refer to figure 1. There are only 7 steps, so one could reasonably question whether there is a page missing from the instructions or whether the note is in error. The note is in error. There are only 7 steps. Next, Stein seems to run out of wires with the colors indicated in the instructions. I saw this in the empennage kit, and here too as well. My L418 wire was supposed to be yellow, but in my harness it was white. Next, the L419 wire in step 5 gets a butt splice because it isn't used in this setup. One might question why you should keep it in the harness at all if it isn't used, and the only good reason for not removing it is in case you ever decide to change landing lights you might need this wire. And lastly, figure 1 shows that one of the terminals on the light is the "positive". Actually, the lights don't have any markings indicating one is positive, and in fact say it doesn't matter which you pick for positive or ground. | ||||
68 | Fig 4 only describes top LONGERON make sure you identify on the rear of the bottom LONGERON the holes that align with the shaded area on the skin where it says not to dimple. I think there is about 14 holes on the bottom LONGERON that should not be countersunk | salto | AB | ||||
69 | Above this section has been added to WIKI on dropbox | https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xu5p6f4l7tso79j/AABHaMhiVWFGoal2bU0ck0pJa?dl=0 | |||||
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