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PARTCOSTHelpful resources
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2JZ w/ ecu, harness, auto trans, maf, igniter$2,800.00https://www.clublexus.com/forums/performance/631058-fuel-feed-line-and-fuel-return-line.html
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complete gasket kit$400.00https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-2nd-gen-1998-2005/878150-how-do-you-set-up-a-fuel-return-line-for-an-aristo-swap.html
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aristo driveshaft, front half/whole$200.00https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-1st-gen-2001-2005/872508-engine-removal-without-or-with-tranny.html
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aristo fuel pump/lines or return setup$200.00https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-2nd-gen-1998-2005/353126-it-begins.html
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supra throttle cable$100.00https://www.clublexus.com/forums/performance/558449-jdm-2jzgte-vvti-swap-gs300-3.html
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intercooler$400.00I run the Aristo ECU in my VVTi GTE swapped 1999 GS300 and all of my factory gauges and what not are fully operational. The only thing that doesn't work is the traction control. As far as e-shift goes, I don't see why it wouldn't work. To get the tach to work, you have to run a wire from the ignitor to the ecu, and to get the shift indicator lights/shift lock release to work you have to repin the orange plug in the ECU box under the hood.
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intercooler piping and exhaust fab$600.001. Throttle cable must be replaced. I went with one from a supra.
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fluids$200.002. Driveshafts are different. I thought it may be just as simple as changing yokes but it wasnt. The US yoke will not work on the jdm tranny. I ended up using my aristo driveshaft even though it was a tad shorter.
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lines, hoses, etc$200.003. The jdm exhaust manifold has a bulge that is directly in the way of the heater core lines. I ended up getting my manifold notched and reinforced so i could hook up the lines properly. AC works great!!!
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miscellanous expenses to consider$1,000.004. You need to use the jdm ignitor with the swap. The only thing to do here is to make the tach work. 1 wire must be added in. On the jdm ignitor the 3rd plug from the left is empty. You can take the old wire(green) thats in the same spot on your old ignitor out and place it in the slot thats open on the jdm ignitor (3rd from left). Connect that wire to the black/yellow wire that is on a white plug closest to the front of the car in the ecu box. The black/yellow wire should be the second to the left on the top row.
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engine mounts$100.005. I used the jdm MAF so no need to rewire anything there.
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Total$6,200.006. You will need to run a fuel return line. I did a 5/16 barb fitting for the hard line coming from the motor and connected it to a 3/8 barb fitting. I connected a -6ss line to the fitting and ran it all the way back along side of the feed line. The fuel pump assembly i used was also from an aristo so it had fittings for feed and return already on top. I did not do the JPK but i did swap out the pump with a walbro 255
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I'd set aside about $1000 just to be safe. That should get you your entire exhaust, FMIC, new plugs, and all new fluids. Who knows, you might have some cash left over if you buy the right things. My budget was around $6000 for the swap. I bought everything I needed and a few extra things that I wanted. I went $40 dollars over. So I was happy with that. Just make sure you get these important things with your swap.
1. 2JZ-GTE VVT-I , it should come with harness and ecu.
2. GTE MAF
3. Igniter , and you can also use the GE one as they are the same part number.
4. Forward part of the drive shaft from the Aristo. The GS300 one will not work, the bolt pattern is a bit off.
Things you will need to buy.
1. You will need to buy a MK4 Supra Throttle cable. The GS300 one is too short. Make sure its from the twin turbo model. I got mine from Driftmotion.
2. Upper radiator hose. I got one from auto zone for a Ford truck and just cut it down.
3. Fuel return line. 5/16 fuel injection line will work just fine. Get about 13 feet. Just in case.....
4. Optional....but for stock it was easy, The Aristo JZS161 fuel pump assembly. It comes with the return hole already on it and does not cause the fuel reading issues that most people have with after market set ups.
5. Custom exhaust set up.
6. After market intake for the GE or GTE if, yours didnt come with the stock air box. I used one from the GE because it had the 2 necessary ports for the stock evap lines. 		7. Since i was doing the JDM swap the bolt pattern off the turbo is a very odd 3 bolt. I ended up going with a 3" supra downpipe. I added in a flex pipe just for added security. With a little bending, extending, and a new flange i couldnt be happier. You will also want to upgrade your cat-back exhaust. I went with a 3" with no cats for that nice free flow lol.
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http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?56684-FAQ-Oil-Fluid-Interval-Capacity-Steering-Brake-Coolant-Diff-Engine
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/performance/793435-2jzgte-gs300-tach-shift-lock-question.html
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https://www.clublexus.com/forums/performance/629923-98-gs300-aristo-swap-13.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/build-threads/815252-gt3000-1998-gs300-2jz-gte-swap.html
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Yes use the JDM termination caps on the USDM body harness. It connects the pins in a different order if you look at the bottom of them you can see the difference. This is what takes care of the shiftlock. The threads you've prob seen where people had shiftlock issues or had to repin those body connectors did not get those terminators with their engineset.https://www.clublexus.com/forums/build-threads/733382-gs400-2jzgte-build-in-the-mitten-state-5.html
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https://www.clublexus.com/forums/performance/557925-2jzgte-vvti-99-gs300-3.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-2nd-gen-1998-2005/353126-it-begins-2.html#post3504731
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The fuel feed and return are both on the U.S. drivers side of the engine. If you look at the left side just under the intake manifold you will see a black nipple sticking out. That is the return line. The fuel feed is a little bit lower. I installed the fuel feed once the engine was in the car. You can use the stock fuel feed line from the N/A GS300. It will hook right up to the VVT-I engine. So if you engine is still out of the car take a look at that side. They are both not to far apart at all.
As for the return line going into the stock fuel pump assembly, I just ordered a stock JSZ161 Aristo assembly with the return nipple already there. I have a decent write up on how I installed it, ran the return line and what parts I ordered from Lexus of Seattle to get it to work like stock. You will have to flip through the pages of my build but its there. Good luck!		http://my.prostreetonline.com/2013/11/21/2jz-sensor-guide-what-you-need-to-swap-a-2jzgte/
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http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?595586-Best-spark-plugs-for-stock-MKIV-Supra
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1998-99-00-01-02-03-2004-Lexus-GS300-GS400-Fuel-Pump-JDM-Upgraded-Aristo-2JZGTE/222851919942?epid=656017188&hash=item33e3027046:g:03sAAOSwyTFaj2VZ&vxp=mtr
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https://www.clublexus.com/forums/build-threads/819747-vvt-i-aristo-swap-1999-gs300-4.html
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http://www.jefftsai.com/Pictures/Cars/Forums/ClubLexus/2010_11Nov/GS3_98-01.jpg
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have ECU with the following model # 89661-3A470
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http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/42173082/2JZ-GTE%20VVTi%20JZS161%20Aristo%20Engine%20Wiring
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https://www.clublexus.com/forums/performance-and-maintenance/365650-camry-throttle-cable.html
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There is nothing to figure out, just remove the aristo battery cables off of the engine and connect the GS battery cables just like the were oem.
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I doesn't matter that the battery is on the other side of an aristo because you don't use any of those cables, the starter is in the same position so connect your GS hot lead there.
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And for the stock GS ground cable it will connect to the engine block under the front turbo. (use the ground cable attachment bracket off the GE engine if you left it on and only unhooked the cable from it when pulling out the GE.)
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The battery cable hookup from Aristo-to-GS is Plug-and-Play.
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http://carandwriter.blogspot.com/2014/11/diy-fix-how-to-install-greddy-boost-cut.html
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https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-2nd-gen-1998-2005/680238-aristo-swap-00-gs-tach-wire.html
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http://speedhunters-wp-production.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/AY0F7587.jpg
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https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-2nd-gen-1998-2005/835124-gs400-drive-shaft-with-aristo-swap.html
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For oil 10w-30 is the norm for the TT engine. For colder climates 5w-30 is recommended.

The transmission uses Toyota Type T4 Fluid. I would not use anything else but this.

The reason the TT A340i uses T4 is because those trans' have flex lockup and "intelligence" control. The "i" means the ECM monitors input and output shaft timing to maintain constant shift speed over its life. The ECM's control calibration is matched to the TIV's fluid's friction coefficient and temperature characteristics. Any Toyota transmission with flex lockup (duty cycles linear solenoid at low speed and load) uses that fluid. Otherwise dexron III is used. The clutches and seals are the same. Using dexron in a TIV trans could cause shift flare, shock or lockup shudder. The Toyota stuff is very high quality (mineral based) and really not that inexpensive. There really isn't a "universal fluid". Using that train of thought would be like saying all spark plugs are the same.

The transmission fluid level is measured with the car running and in neutral. Shift it from 1-2-3-D-R a few times then back to neutral a few times to allow the fluid to travel throughout the valve body.
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https://www.clublexus.com/forums/3504731-post18.html
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Note it's the third position, which in his picture is the spot where he has removed the pin from in the pic, but that is the sport where you just tap the new igniter feed to, don't cut or disconnect it.
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https://www.clublexus.com/forums/build-threads/879139-vip161-s161-swap-2.html
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Yes that is going to be a major part of the problem. The ECU checks the MAF and MAP sensors and controls the idle using that info. As far as the rod goes....loosen the 12mm nut on the adjuster by the shifter and send it all the way to the back (meaning make the aristo rod as long as possible). That will let you shift the trans properly! If you need any help sorting out the swap you can pm me. Ive done several of these swaps.
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