Denali Gear Checklist
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Denali May 2013 - Alpine Style Expedition
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GearPeterWeightJoshWeightOn body approachOn Body Climb
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Clothing and personal gear
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Baselayer (bottom)2 smartwool lightweight layers for hiking, 1 synthetic for sleepingUA base 4.0 leggings888
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Second set of next to skin?????Maybe cache some extra clothes at base camp, in case we're stuck there before flying out.UA ColdGear compression Leggings555
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Baselayer (top)2 smartwool lightweight layersUA Base 3.0 top + 1 smartwool top16.5
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SoftShell PantsI have one pair. I need a lightweight belt.OR Trailblazers131313
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Insulated Pants (down)mhw compressorMontBell TEC UL Down pants13.5
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Hardshell Pantsmarmot precipmarmot precip13.3
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T Shirt (long or short?)1 lightweight white for lower glacier maybe? But I suspect that I could just use a long sleeve baselayer at any elevationroll up sleeves0
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Fleece (what kind??)not bringingFirst Ascent Cloud Layer® Pro Fleece 1/4-Zip 5.5
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Softshell Jacketgolitenot bringing one
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Hardshell Jacketmarmot precipMountain Equipment Changabang20.3
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Big Puffymontbell zero pointMH Absolute Zero42
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Secondary down???rab infinityMONTBELL - EX LIGHT DOWN JACKET(planned)7.6
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Warm Hatwool beanieneed1.2
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Sun Hatgrey NF hatOR hat0
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Liner Socksnever tried these before, not sure they're necessary???0
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Expedition weight wool SocksI have some. IMG recommends 4 pairs.3 pair smartwool extraheavy20.3
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Underwearget wool, as well? necessary, if I'm already wearing long underwear?icebreaker wool5.2
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BootsspantiksLS SPantiks44.4844.4844.48
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overboots40 below k2 superlightborrowing from peter23.4
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GaitersOR crocodiles, size XLOR Crocodiles12.512.512.5
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Liner Glovesthin fleece2 pairs3.1
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Midweight 'work' gloveswill use light mittens insteadRab Ski Gloves8.6
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Expedition weight MittensOR Alti mittsOR Alti Mitts and Gloves21.5
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Balaclavacurrent option is my ultraclava with mouth cut out, need to figure out how to use this with goggleshave2.2
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Glacier Glassesbucci alpine prescription glacier gogglesneed2
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Gogglesturbofansmith prophecy io with fan7.1
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Buff/Bandananeedhave1
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cramponsBD sabretooth, need to test with overboots if center bar is long enough, and mark 2 center bar settingsCassin Blade Runner42.542.5
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ice axeprobably heavy steel one, still need to insulate the head.Petzl Sum'Tec + Nomic402040
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sledsupplied by air taxiRent4
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sled rigging (IMG says 20' of 1'' webbing and 4-6 long bungee cords?)have 4mm cord for tie down and 6mm cord for hauling. do I need attachment rings or something, to tie 4mm to, or just tie to plastic? Decide on size of lockers, etc for rigging40' x 4mm
30' x 5mm
50' x 6mm
20' x 7mm
1x Dynamic Prussik
50' x 2mm Tent Cord
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Pack105 MHW packMH 105L 83
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duffel for sled gearmight need a new one, depends on gear sizeBorrowing TNF 90L base camp duffel, might buy a second64
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book/cards/etc.need to choose something simple enough for a guy like me to read.I have books
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headlamp (4 total, if 3 people)doesn't get very dark at night, maybe still useful in early May, maybe good in tents / for reading, 1 extra per team might make more sense than 2 per person?ive read most teams dont carry. def dont take 2?
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camerapowershot D10Pentax WG3-GPS9.6
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extra batteries (camera, headlamp)camera batteries + triple A's32
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snowshoesMSR lightning ascent 25 inchMSR Lightning ascent 6363
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trekking polesbring two poles. buy lighter ones?BD aluminium poles
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sporktitanium sporktitanium spork1
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bowlflexible plastic bowlcollapsable plastic bowl3
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nalgene bottles (how many? New ones - no nicks on the mouth - won't freeze shutLast year I brought a 1L thermos and two 1L nalgenes2x 1L nalgenes, 1x 1L thermos35.3
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pee bottles1L bottleneed6.3
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mug (insulated)didn't bring last time0
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harness (lightweight)brought BD couloir last year, might use arcteryx this yearBD Chaos or Misty Mountain Cadilac18
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crevasse rescue geari have 3 pulleys, matt has one, I have prussik loopsNeed some pullies16
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ascenderI own a full size, and a tibloc. We'd only use these if failing over to West Buttress.Petzl ascension x20
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small bag to leave with air taxi (street clothes for after the mountain, etc)
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Sleeping System
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Foam Padbasic foam padbasic foam pad14
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Insulated PadExped synmat UL 7 failed last year. What to bring this year?Thermarest NeoAir All Season19
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Sleeping Bagff snow goose -40 bagRab Expedition 120065
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ear plugs for sleepingwind is loud, Matt snorescheck1
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Group Gear
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Stoves (2 or 3?)I have one XGK, Matt has the other.whisperlite international15.6
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matches and lighter5
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Fuel (how much?)
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Fuel canisters (how many, what kind, etc. - can get in AK?)white gas, gallon cans, get from air taxi. We did estimation badly last year, need to get better.32oz bottle
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one first aid kit (with painkillers)I have diamox, dexamethasone, antibiotics, vicodin, oxycodone, tramadol for severe pain, immodium, ondansetron, ambien. I have small bandages but also need to prepare for treating a large wound.16
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wet wipesvery useful for staying clean, takes about 2 a day minimum to clean your body. Bring them in small packages, 10 per package, large packages are hard to thaw.6
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hand sanitizerbring small bottles.
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toilet paper (how much?)
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chapstickSPF 45 banana boat, I bring 3 tubes on an expedition because this is critical. Also can be useful to bring carmex for nighttime recovery.
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one gear repair kitbring inflatable pad repair kits? (was unable to find/fix leak last year, but could fix a huge tear I guess). Bring extra shoelaces for all types of boots used. Duct tape. What else?
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pocket knifeone for the group, or more? Best to be the one carrying the knife, in case you need to cut a fallen teammate loose.leatherman2
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alarm/watch$10 watch from walgreens. Does anyone sleep without earplugs? I use them on the mountain and can sleep through alarms sometimes.$20 watch from wallmart
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thermometerfor outdoor temperature? I don't have one, is this necessary?
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tent (inc. deadmen to anchor tent - small stuff sacs?)
Hilleberg Nammatj 355
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lightweight emergency shelter/bivy sac??space blanket3
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probes (2)have 1 carbon fiber1 carbon fiber7
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shovels (2) - heavy dutyI have a collapsible BCA, would be nice to have something with a slightly longer handle1 collapsable BCA16
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sunscreen (1), zinc oxide
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wandsWe brought something like 60 bamboo wands with surveyors tape last year, used some of them. Bring anything this year?8
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radio8
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altimeterwould this be useful for navigation?
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compass1
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GPS8
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snow sawI have a 30'' BCA saw8
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maps
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hand/foot warmersthese are useful for only about 4 hours, summit day is 12+, figure 6 minimum for a cold summit day, plus more for other occasions. 10 per person, then?5
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rope (<8mm, length?)denali handbook recommends 9mm 50m for 3 people for West Buttress. Last year we used 8mm 60m for 4. I don't know what's best for 2 people on a more technical route.88
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pickets??Peter had 4 lightweight Yates 24'' pickets, then left them all in Peru. Need to buy N new ones.26
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crevasse rescue gearhave 3 pulleys for team, might need to buy one more.20
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ice screws??How much pro for leads?16
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Total (oz)1158.68992.7993.2
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72.417562.0437562.075
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