Tasermiut Route Database
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PeakFaceNameLengthGradeTopoFirst AscentionistsDescentComments
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UlamertorsuaqWestMoby Dick~1200mIX+ A2AmberAbseilSimilar lines to Piteraq and War and Poetry. Has been repeated.
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Piteraq~1200m5.9 and A3+GreenAbseilAlmost freed at F7c, needed one small pendulum.
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War and Poetry~1200m5.12cGreenAbseil - Well equippedHas had lots of repeats. Belays well bolted, slab pitches in the first half well bolted (have no information on the top half as I didn't climb it!).
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Jaques Cousteau~1200m6c and A4AmberAbseil
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Magic Tromblon~1200m6b and A2AmberAbseilThe huge corner.
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Geneva Diedre~1200m6b and A4AmberAbseilSees repeats.
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Quadrophenia~1200m6b and A4GreenAbseil
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Sudtiroler Profil~1200mF7cAmberGlowaczAbseilBolted
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L'Inesperee~1200mF7b and A4AmberAbseil
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Le temps de L'innocence~1200mF7a+, A1 and C1AmberAbseilOn next pillar
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What's bred in the bone~1200mF6a+ and A2+AmberAbseilOn next pillar - only 2 aid pitches
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Unfinished Route~1200mVII+AmberAbseil16 pitches climbed free before bailing on the black wall next to the pillar. Could go free?
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PyramidMosquito AttackF6b and A0GreenAbseilMore bolts used than necessary apparently. Not regarded as particularly good.
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Swiss routeVI+ and A0RedAbseil
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North WestKeep panic, PleaseVIIIGreenAbseilThere is a video of this route being climbed. Also attempted by Tony Penning but not climbed to summit. 26 pitcheshttp://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/new-difficult-rock-climbs-in-greenland.html
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East Ridge of North SummitThe James Hopkins PillarE4 5cAmberAbseilSome loose rock
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Honey ButtressHoney ButtressE4 5cAmberSome loose rock. This is the north (?) facing wall to the East of the last route.
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Half DomeNorth WestDash Friday Route~500m5.10 XAmberMicah Dash, FridayCan descend Les Temp Sont Durs if you can find the anchors! Dash and Friday abseiled off the back onto the glacier, which is shorter but crevassed.Very run out, skyhooks needed for runners.
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Les Temp Sont Durs~500mF6cAmberAbseil route.Mostly good bolts on anchors (12mm) Some bolts on pitches. Runout on hard pitches.
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The Bad Man from Bodie~650mE2 5bAmberD Barrack, W TreasureAbseil down Les Temp Sont Durs. Mostly good anchors, a couple of rivets at the top could be replaced.No fixed gear. This starts about 50m left of Les Temp Sont Durs at a small right facing flake line, which runs for 15m or so up the face. It climbs the slabs before skirting left around the first overlap (crux pitches). It continues up flakes and slabs tot he next overlap, heading through the crack in the right edge, up flake cracks before trending leftwards into a series of shallow corners, then rightwards on slabs towards the upper hanging corner on the left. We avoided this by climbing the slabs on overlapping flakes until accessing a large series of left facing corners which led in several pitches to the top. It is possible to climb the slabs to the left of the corners (Les Temp Sont Durs, some bolts.)
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NalumasortoqWest FaceLife is Beautiful600m5.9 A2+AmberAbseil
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Sekitori670m5.10 A4AmberAbseil
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Mussel Power800m 5.11 A3+AmberAbseil
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Left Pillar~750m?AmberAbseilCan be used in descent
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Ekstra Lagret750m5.11a A2AmberAbseilMeans stinky cheese. No fixed gear.
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Umwelten750m5.12- A1AmberAbseil"The British Route" goes free at 5.12+ and has had several repeats.
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Stupid White Man600mF6b and A1GreenabseilFree at F7a
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Turkish Garland Figs600mIXAmber
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Cheese Finger at 3 o-clock550m5.10+ A3/4GreenAbseil
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One Way Ticket600mF6b and A4Amber
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Vertical Dream~600m7a and A2RedAbseil?
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Prowed and Free600m5.12+Amber
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Planeta Spisek800m5.11d A3+GreenAbseil
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Non c'e due senza tre850m5.11b A3GreenAbseil - Bolts are 8mm and some are not reliable. Some small rivets also.Goes free at 5.11c R Topo for aid and free version. Start of hard section above snow is runout and slightly loose.
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South FaceSouth Face1000mTD Climbing to F5+Amber?
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South East Arete?Mountaineering routeRed?
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North West Face of main peak~1000m?RedThis Face tucked behind the pillars is probably unclimbed. Pretty big too (1000m?) Tricky approach over the glacier.
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Little NalumSouth WestChitty-Menitov-Su Route400m5.10 R A2RedThere are some other routes on these smaller pinnacles, but info is vague. Most seem to involve aid. Probably potential for new routes.
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French Route?5. 10red2016 team, one tricky pitch, on north side of towers.Abseil.
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RDVNNorth Ridge?600mTD+RedSustained climbing apparently.
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West Face~600mRedUnclimbed as far as I can tell. Glacier approach. maybe 600m, looks suitable for free climbing?
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KetilWest FaceFrench Route1200mF6b A3AmberHas been repeated several times. 1400m?
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Catalan Route1400mVI+ and A3GreenAbseilFairly detailed topo covers the first 23 pitches, to about 2/3 height. The team that made it abandoned here in a storm. Has had 2 ascents, the second in alpine style and climbing more pitches free up to VIII-, final 600m is on the ridge and straightforward.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SCXI9t0Naok
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Piola Route1200mAmber
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Anissa~1200mF6b+ A3Red
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West Pillar1200mAmber
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South FaceTurbo1450mVIII+ and A2GreenAbseilVideo onlinehttp://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/new-difficult-rock-climbs-in-greenland.html
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Austrian Route~1400mVIAmber
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French Route~1400m?Red
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Ketil PyramidSouth West FaceUnclimbed, not so clean, slabbyRed
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South FaceSwiss Route400mVI+AmberAbseil on good but frustratingly spaced anchors. (31m apart)Regularly climbed. A good route, with a loose scramble entry and some hollow flakes.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kooXCqfEymk
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Polish Route450mF6cAmber
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Lost Friends450m 5.10a and A3cAmberI have no idea what A3c means, but the first ascensionist soloed the line, carrying 54 friends, 20 hooks and 21 copperheads. Then rappelled. Unrepeated?
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Grmoland370mVII+AmberCan abseil the Swiss Route. Easy to find the anchors.Very loose first few pitches, then some excellent climbing. Pitch grades S 4a, VS 4a, HVS 4c, VS 4c, E3 5c, HS 4b, E2 5b, E1 5b A0, then last pitch of Swiss route. Wide corner crack to the right provides a good E2 5b finish in a direct line.
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East FaceEast Face300mIIIGreen
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TininnertuupIIWar Cry700mE5 6aGreenFrom the gently sloping summit walk North to the top of a narrow but well pronunced gully. Scramble down this, occassionally down climbing or abseiling the more arkward passages to where the gully widens out and splits. Take the left (looking down) gully. Follow this until the angle eases and it is possible to scramble right (looking out) over slabs to the moraine and back to camp.Very big photos of this face
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Scorpion Grooves700mE3 5cAmber
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Anglo Bavarian Direct700mE2Amber
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Piriton Pillar700mE5 6aGreen
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Flying Viking700mVIIIamber
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Mexican Attempt700m5.11-amber
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IIINalunaq900mVII+AmberVia the loose gully on the East face between II and III - loose and upleasant, but could be snowed up.23 pitches. Loose rock at the bottom repelled a British team.
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Midnight Children800mF6b+RedScramble and abseil down the North ridge to the col between Tininnertuup II & III. Make an abseil into the NNE gully and follow this with interest down to the moraine.20 pitches, shares sections with Nalunaq
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Head in the Clouds650mHVSamberOnly 2 HVS pitches, would be Alpine AD, joins the ridge after 650m.
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Anglo Bavarian Direct650mE1amberA slightly harder direct version of the previous line. Recommended to start up Head in the clouds and finish up this for the best rock.
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IVRapakivi Road1000mE3 5cGreenAbseilOriginally climbed at 5.11 A2 via slightly different line. Has seen several repeats.
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Qivitooq1000mF7a+ A2AmberSwedish route. Probably unrepeated. Lower pitches have some loose rock which put off one party that attempted it. Only 2 pitches requitred aid climbnig and could be freed in good conditions.
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West Ridge and South West Face?Mostly IV with some VIredIrish Route
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Freeway1000mE3 5c/5bamber12 pitches, links into Rapakivi Road, relatively popular way up this face.
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Whitehouse attempted routeE5 5c/6aamberRetreated before it reached the big ledge.
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HermelnbergNorth WestAlle vil til himmelen, men ingen vil dø1300mNorwegian 6+ and A2AmberScramble down NE-ward to close to the col. Make four abseils to reach rock and scramble down scree covered slabs to the valley. "Five rappels got us down to the snow slopes on the north side of the mountain. From here we slanted down to the plateau between Hermelnbjerg and spot height 1,339m on the map. Then we walked south, crossing a glacier, to regain our valley."The pillar. Would go free at reasonable grade in good conditions according to first ascentionists
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Ramblin' ManE5 6bGreenDan McManus. Sounds horrible.
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East Face of south summitThe Corner of Mt Fayette600mF6c+ and A0AmberAbseilApproach: The two crossed the col below the east-northeast ridge at its lowest point and scrabbled down wild and scary loose ground—mud and large blocks—then crossed the glacier to the foot of the wall. Scope for more routes on this wall.
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North East RidgeWalk toward the far side of the col then follow the glacier (or scramble up rocks on its right bank) to an obvious breche on the NE ridge. Follow the ridge spectacularly, more-or-less on the crest, until an obvious series of ledges to the right (North) of the ridge can be followed to their meeting with a large gully/couloir (this is followed in descent). Climb the left side of the couloir to reach the crest about 50m below a gigantic gendarme. Make a rising traverse on the slabby wall on the left (South) side of the ridge to an obvious corner. Follow this to below an overhang, traverse left underneath the overhang to gain a steep crack, follow this and continue up and slightly right to huge jammed blocks. Continue in the same line to regain the crest. It is now possible to take a fairly direct line on the right (North) side of the crest toward the summit (much scope for variation). Climb the E face of the summit pillar (initially loose) in one pitch to belay on the far side at the highest point, having crawled underneath the huge summit boulder.Abseil the line, or close to it, until the large gully/couloir. Abseil directly down this (careful to avoid rockfall) to reach the glacier.Repeated in 2008
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North FaceNorwegian Route~500mF6cRedOnly went halfway before bailing
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Norwegian Route~200mF6b+RedFour pitches before bailing
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West face of south summitNorwegian Route~500MF6c and A0RedOne pendulum. Gets around halfway up the West Face of the south summit. They bailed because they ran out of food and water.
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TitanISouth east pillar900mF6b+RedOne established route. Possible quite loose. Also possible easy mountaineering route up glacier.
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IIUnclimbedRed
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SuikkassuaqSouth FacePiola RouteRedI've found no diagrams of these routes, there are at least 2. The name means "solid rock".
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