Solanum lycopersicum

determinate vs indeterminate varieties: determinate grow to set height/width, flower, and spend time on fruit; indeterminate keep growing until frost, then die -- so require staking; harden off seedlings before transplanting; time to mature depends on cultivar (early, mid, or late season -- consider planting all three types)

start indoors; trasnplant when soil is warm and seedlings are 6.5-10cm tall; take off lower leaves and plant lower than soil line; don't transplant on windy or hot day; water well upon planting

60cm between plants and rows

harvest when red but not overly ripe; store in cool, dry, dark location for a few days; preserve as tomato sauce, salsa, tomato soup, crushed tomatoes, tomato juice; store seeds by fermenting first, then store in airtight container in cool, dry spot

rich, well-draining, loamy

at least 5cm per week in summer

add compost to soil before planting; add epsom salts if soil has magnesium deficiency; add fish heads/bones to planting holes; add crushed eggshells for calcium; add fish emulsion or compost tea upon fruit set; make compost tea by combining 2 liters of compost, 2 cups of powdered eggshells, 1 cup of wood ashes, 1 cup of used coffee grounds, pet or human hair -- then let cure for a month in a sealed bucket -- mix 500g of homemade fertilizer to 6l of water, stir to mix well -- place bucket with lid on in area protected from extreme temperatures -- steep for five days -- strain liquid and use immediately, add solid parts to compost pile/sprinkle around base of plants

lettuce, borage, chives, marigolds, nasturtium, basil, calendula, carrots, sage, onion, garlic, lettuce, asparagus, beans, cucumbers, mint, parsley

peppers, corn, potatoes, cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli

remove leaves from bottom 30cm of stem when plant is about 60-90cm tall; remove suckers

aphids, flea beetles, tomato hornworm, blossom end rot, tobacco mosaic virus, radial cracking, sour rot, verticillium wilt, early blight, alternaria, root knot

can also plant as perennial; definitely provide support via stakes against winds; plant densely to protect against sunscald

plant with plenty of compost and a tablespoon of powdered milk at base of each plant for calcium support; best to start indoors, then harden off for a week and put in ground when nighttime temps are above 12C; stake or otherwise provide support

30cm between plants, 60-90cm between rows

cut off at stem with sharp pruners; store in fridge for about a week, otherwise freeze or pickle or put in pasta sauces

rich, well-draining, loamy

2.5-5cm per week

initially plant with plenty of compost; if ph is off, add phosphorus and calcium via bone meal and rock phosphate; fertigate every few weeks (but not too much nitrogen or there will be too many leaves and not enough fruit)

basil, chives, carrots, onions, chard, lettuce, spinach, leeks, radishes, beets, corn, tomatoes, asparagus, garlic, squash, oregano, dill, parsley, marjoram, buckwheat, rosemary, cucumbers, eggplant, parsnips, peas, geraniums, french marigolds, petunias, lovage, nasturtium

fennel, apricot, walnut, beans, kale, cabbage, brussel sprouts

not necessary, but can remove some branches that aren't producing to let more light in and redirect energy; remove low leaves that are touching the ground to avoid disease

cutworms, aphids, flea beetles, hornworms, white flies, southern blight, powdery mildew, ripe rot, blossom end rot, sunscald, bacterial leaf spot, mosaic, phytophthora

grow a few different kinds -- shishito, paprika, jalapeño; run experiment with topping/not topping plants; pepper plants may cross-pollinate, so keep pepper varieties apart if you want to maintain them as they are

plant into soil about 1cm deep with lots of compost; water after planting but don't soak; potentially stake depending on size of cultivar; if transplanting, harden off first

30-45cm between plants, 60-75cm between rows

pick when plump, glossy, and right color; give it a good soaking before picking; pick chilies often to encourage plant to keep fruiting; let stay on vine for longer if you want them spicier; fresh chilies can be stored in fridge up to 2 weeks; can freeze or dry

can save and use for next year; if there are diseases, consider pre-soaking in a special mix before germination; germination in 2-3 weeks

sandy, well-draining, rich

water regularly but don't allow waterlogging; young plants don't like cold water; less water hields hotter chilis; inconsistent watering leadds to blossom end rot, so put on drip irrigation

feed once flowering and again with potassium boost once fruit begins to swell (but limit nitrogen); sulfur increases heat; in general the recommendation is to go very light on fertilizer

yes (but not yearly)

basil, carrot, cucumber, eggplant, asparagus, chives, parsley, spinach, onion, leek, garlic, shallots, scallions, marjoram, oregano

beans, kohlrabi, nitrogen fixers

potentially top -- check for different cultivars

aphids, snails and slugs, whitefly, beet armyworm, tomato fruit worm, spider mites, thrips, powdery mildew, blossom end rot, bacterial spot, damping off, fusarium wilt, mosaic virus, transplant shock

Solanum melongena

stake for support; can grow either as annual or perennial -- perhaps depending on disease? will also require covering in winter

start indoors and transplant into soil with lots of compost, set up stake upon transplanting

45-60cm between plants, 60-90cm between rows

harvest when fruit has intended size using pruners; use within a few days; best to enjoy fresh, limited preservation options? harvest early and often

only save from open-pollinated plants ,not hybrids

fertile, well-draining

compost tea every two weeks after planting

beans, okra, thyme, dill, mint, tarrago, potato, lettuce, basil, peppers, spinach, sunflowers

not necessary; possibly trim leaves to help with air and light lower down; if growing as perennial: leave main stem and first two branching stems, once plant has produced most of its eggplants for the season, remove other stems to encourage new growth for next season; also prune off suckers

flea beetles, hornworms, aphids, cutworms, mites, powdery mildew, verticulum wilt, blossom-end rot, cercospora leaf spot

Solanum tuberosum

there's a special local variety of potato with red skin to look into?

Jan 15; Apr 15; Aug 15

Mar 15; Jun 15; Sep 15

Apr 15; Aug 15; Nov 15

Jul 15; Oct 15; Jan 15

put a bunch of compost and manure where you want to plant; cut up a potato with eyes on it a day in advance (for development of protective coating); each piece should have two eyes on it; plant with eyes pointing up in a trench 20cm deep and 15 cm wide, trenches should be 1m apart; cover with 8cm of soil; once 20cm tall, cover with another 10cm of soil; once 15cm tall, make hills of dirt around them to protect the tuber, continue every few weeks

30cm apart in rows 45cm apart

ready for harvest when top foliage starts dying off, dig some up for evaluation: skin should be thickened up, not super thin; can be stored for months; pull up the plant, there might be one attached, but then dig around for other potatoes; don't leave the potatoes in the sun (they'll turn green and taste bitter); storage: use dry rag to brush off as much dirt as possible and then store in box with good circulation and paper; store the sturdy and big ones and use the weaker and small ones first; cover layers of potatoes with newspaper; keep potatoes away from apples and store in cool dark place

loose, sandy, well-draining

2.5-5cm per week, consistent rather than all at once (drip irrigation good)

have to make sure the little mounds don't get eroded

18-26C (daytime)

compost when first planting, add compost every few weeks

year 1 potatoes, year 2 legumes/onions/roots, year 3 brassicas -- can rotate through other sections as well

lots of straw or wood chips

beans, corn, garlic, onion, peas, cabbage, horseradish, marigolds, eggplant

pumpkin, squash, cucumber, sunflower, tomato, raspberries, asparagus, broccoli, melon

late blight; mosaic virus; potato yellow dwarf virus; potato blackleg; potato scab; bacterial ring rot; colorado potato beetle; white grubs; potato leafhopper; various bugs

twice a year, feb-mar, ready in jul; plant august, ready in dec-jan

crop rotation: https://www.rhs.org.uk/vegetables/crop-rotation

Tamarillo (tomato tree)

start fruiting once they produce 21 branches; transplant when 25cm tall; stake for the first two seasons

plant from seed; perhaps plant where the roses are?

leave to ripen on tree, take dropped ones or ones that are about to drop

full sun to partial shade

fertile and well-draining

don't keep too wet, contradicts advice to water daily -- but perhaps, water daily in low doses because of shallow roots and no drought tolerance

compost around dripline in spring, summer, and late winter

tansy, guava, sage, dill, basil

every year after fruiting to encourage new growth; fruiting happens on new wood; when plant is new, prune to 1m high to encourage spreading out rather than up

snails, aphids, whitefly, powdery mildew, cucumber mosaic virus

all parts of plant are toxic to people and animals except the fruit

plant seeds .5cm deep at most; can use small trellis to prevent toppling over; but maybe better to start indoors and transplant; transplant like tomatoes, plant deeper because stem will grow new roots

they drop to the ground on their own when they're ready (but pick them up quickly -- they self-seed!); possibly put tarp or sheet under plant so easier to harvest; can store in cool place for 6 weeks to 3 months

not picky, but like well-draining, don't tolerate standing water

2.5-5cm per week

compost for drainage and fruit; don't add nitrogen, can cause fruit production to decrease

basil, parsley, carrots, onions

corn, potatoes, fennel, dill

cutworms, spider mites, verticillium wilt

grow multiple varieties of short day onions

probably plant sets rather than seeds, plant in fall for sweeter taste -- if planting seeds, need to start earlier than sets; dig 5-8cm trench, 5cm wide; fill trench with compost, plant each bulb halfway down into compost layer, then fill with remaining soil, covered 1-2cm; water

10-13cm apart, 30-45cm between rows

harvest once leaves yellow and start to fall off; onions "lay down"; once harvested, dry them by laying them out in the garden in full sun, eg on wood chips or a drying rack; lay out so bulbs don't touch each other; cure them once dry enough (dry papery feel at start of stem); cure in hot dry space with good circulation; cure by laying out without bulbs touching, on newspaper or drying racks (if on newspaper, rotate every few days);

loam, sandy, clay, well-drained and fertile

thoroughly after planting, once a week thereafter (2.5cm per week)

variable, sturdy even around freezing temperatures

sow into soil with high nitrogen content (perhaps in rotation after nitrogen fixer?)

integrate onions into potato rotation

lots of straw or shredded leaves; re-mulch once onions are up out of the soil (winterblanket)

tomato, lettuce, chamomile, rose, strawberry, carrots, beets, amaranth; nasturtium, alyssum, sunflowers, zinnias; brassicas

beans, peas, sage, asparagus, leek, garlic

black mold, botrytis leaf blight, downy mlildew, fusarium basal plate rot, pink root, fusarium damping-ff, rust, purple blotch, white rot, smut, leaf streak, onion yellow dwarf, pythium seed rot, leafminers, bulb mites, onion maggot, onion thrips

https://www.ruralsprout.com/onion-companion-plants/

best to plant in raised beds or containers so it's easier to create loose soil for bulbs to spread and grow in; if garlic stems turn yellow, you have a nitrogen deficiency; garlic deters a bunch of pests, including japanese beetles, cabbage loopers, fungus gnats, ants, snails, aphids, mosquitoes; choose best variety: softneck, braid for storage; mulch with a bunch of straw; possibly add shade cloth

put cloves in fridge for 40 days before planting, for vernalization; before planting, loosen soil to at least 6 inches (or plant directly in compost); plant large cloves 5-7.5cm deep in soil amended with compost, pointy tip up and basal/root end down; garlic scapes should emerge in 6-8 weeks; don't plant where other alliums have been growing for past three years

7.5-10cm between plants, 15-20cm between rows

when most leaves have turned brown and tops start falling over, use garden fork to gently dig below bulb and lift from underneath to remove it from soil; dust off dirt; hang each bulb upside down in a shaded location with excellent airflow for 14 days (curing time); when wrappers are dry and feel like tissue paper, garlic bulbs are ready for storing; storage: remove any leaves and trim back remaining roots, can either store garlic individually with tops cut off and place in wooden tray with sawdust or straw, separating layers of bulbs in drawer OR leave tops attached, braid them together, store the garlic in bulbs hanging in pantry or kitchen as decor; if storing large quantities of garlic for the year, store in dark, dry location around 4C; save biggest bulbs from harvest for planting next year's crop

loam, fertile, well-draining, moist

lightly after planting, every 3-5 days during bulbing; extra water in hot weather; let soil go dry for 2-3 weeks before harvest

add compost to first planting, fertigate every few weeks (about 3-4 times, needs a lot of nitrogen); stop fertilizing when bulb formation starts (when stalks really thicken up)

peppers, tomatoes, eggplant, carrots, potatoes, spinach, broccoli, kohlrabi, beets, kale, cabbage, cauliflower, dill, fruit trees

parsley, sage, peas, asparagus, beans

weed about once a week at the start, later the garlic stems will smother out the weeds; cut any flowers that develop (because that energy is not going to the bulbs)

purple blotch, downy mildew, rust, white rot, garlic mosaic, leafminers, bulb mites, onion maggot, thrips, lesion nematode

the epic gardening guy has a good video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Led4pKzoSTY

Allium ampeloprasum

good for succession sowing; keep mounding so white part of the root stays white; can grow fast-growing salad greens between leeks while waiting for them to establish; will have to experiment with these

Nov 1; Jun 1

Jan 31; Jun 30

plant seeds .5cm into soil with lots of compost; either plant in trenches and keep filling in, or plant flat and keep adding hill soil

15cm between plants, 60cm between rows

ready when bulbs are at least 2.5cm in diameter; remove leeks from soil by twisting and pulling or digging; wash leaves to remove any soil; can store in fridge for a few weeks

fertile, well-draining

keep well watered, 2.5cm once a week; don't overwater (if tips turn yellow early in season, you probably overwatered)

add compost every few weeks or fertigate

carrots, onions, celery, garlic, beets, cabbage, spinach, lettuce, tomato

peas, beans, chickpeas

perhaps cut some of the above-round leaves of the plant to encourage bulb growth

thrips, root maggots, leek moth, rust, white rot, damping off, botrytis leaf blight, pink root, downy mildew, purple blotch, leafminers

Allium schoenoprasum

grow as perennial but divide beds every 3 years; extreme summer heat can cause them to go dormant; grow them as perennials and see when they're happiest

add compost to hole and insert plant

cut when green and long; harvest 4-5 times in first year, monthly after that

full sun to partial shade

yes, once established

add some compost yearly in late spring/early summer

yes (but not yearly)

carrots, celery, lettuce, tomatoes, grapes, rose, mint, apple, cabbage, strawberry, mustard

cut back the flowers if you want to prevent them going to seed

mildew, rust, leaf spot, bulb rot, onion fly, thrips

edible stems, edible flowers

Zucchini/summer squash

most info applies to all summer squash (squash with edible skin); misshapen fruit means lack of water or fertilizer; save seeds

direct sow about 2.5cm deep, pointy side up, in a mound of compost, 3 seeds that you later thin

cut off at stem with sharp knife when mature but skin is still tender; keep in fridge up to 10 days; can also freeze

not picky, should be moist and well-draining

2.5cm per week, once a week

shallow and long taproot

add compost when first bloom appears, then once a month thereafter

corn, peas, beans

potatoes, sunflowers

have male and female blooms

squash bug; blossom end rot; stink bugs; squash vine borer; pollination issues; cucumber beetles; aphids

Pumpkin/winter squash

most info applies to all winter squash (squash with inedible skin); because these are vines, it may make more sense to grow vertically to reduce spacing reqs ; misshapen fruit means lack of water or fertilizer; save seeds

direct sow about 2.5cm deep, pointy side up, in a mound of compost, 3 seeds that you later thin

cut off at stem with sharp knife when rind is dark; will last some part of winter if kept in cool, dark place (and cured first?)

not picky, should be moist and well-draining

2.5cm per week, once a week

shallow and long taproot

add compost when first bloom appears, then once a month thereafter

corn, peas, beans

potatoes, sunflowers

once vine is at least 3m long, trim back unhealthy growth and fruits; snip off all but a few of the early flowers to direct energy

have male and female blooms

squash bug; blossom end rot; stink bugs; squash vine borer; pollination issues; cucumber beetles; aphids

2-4 watermelons per vine

sow out once air temp consistently at least 21C, soil can be pre-warmed with black sheet, plant in slightly mounded hills with 4-5 seeds per hill; thin out upon sprouting and once seedlings have some height to them; OR start indoors, harden off 7-10 days, transplant 2 weeks after last frost, about 4cm deep, once soil is at least 21C

75-100cm between plants; 1.50-1.80m between rows

harvest when tendrils closest to the fruit are beginning to dry out and turn brown; or when thumping fruit produces muffled/dull sound (rather than metallic ringing); cut from the vine; store for 2-3 weeks at 11-15C, or for a week at room temperature (the latter can improve flavor/color)

loamy, well-drained, rich in organic matter

2.5-5cm of water per week while plants are growing, blooming, and setting fruit; but while fruit is developing, withhold water for sweeter fruit

protect seedlings from spring winds

shallow and long taproot

work soil with compost before planting; fertilize three times during growing season: when planting, when vines start to run, when fruit forms

with nitrogen fixers

thin layer of mulch, or sheet of black plastic; if the former, once fruit starts to ripen, put straw or cardboard below to protect from moisture and rot

radish, corn, nasturtium, pumpkin, squash, citrus

remove defective melons and blossom-end rot fruit to promote additional fruit set; don't prune when vines are wet, to avoid disease

have male and female blooms

thrips, cutworms, flea beetles, cabbage looper, aphids, aster yellows, angular leaf spot, verticillium wilt, anthracnose, Alternaria leaf blight, Alternaria leaf spot, Cercospora leaf spot, downy mildew, fusarium wilt, gummy stem blight, powdery mildew, bacterial fruit blotch, blossom-end rot, mosaic

Cucumis melo var. cantalupensis

sow into hills with compost, put trellis up early

45cm between plants, 1m between rows

time to harvest when color of rind changes; fruit should easily twist off vine; fresh melon lasts a week; eat immediately

make sure there are no other melon varieties nearby or seeds won't be true; scoop seeds into strainer, rinse of pulp, spread seeds on paper towel to dry for a week; store dried seeds in labeled envelope in cool, dark, dry spot; will remain viable for a few years

sandy, loamy, well-draining

2.5-5cm of water per week while plants are growing, blooming, and setting fruit; but while fruit is developing, withhold water for sweeter fruit

shallow and long taproot

work soil with compost before planting; fertigate perhaps three times during growing season: when planting, when vines start to run, when fruit forms; avoid lots of nitrogen, will produce leaves but not fruit

marigolds, herbs, lettuce, onions, garlic, corn, nasturtium, radish, broccoli

potatoes, anything that competes for space

once fruit production starts, prune off buds on ends of vines to redirect some energy

have male and female blooms

fusarium wilt, cucurbit yellow stunting disorder, cucumber green mottle mosaic, fusarium wilt, powdery mildew, verticillium wilt, aster yellows, bacterial wilt, anthracnose, charcoal rot, aphids, squash vine borer, cucumber beetles, cabbage looper, cutworms, flea beetles, root knot nematode

there are bush and vine varieties; bush cucumbers better for succession planting; grow varieties for both pickling and eating fresh; if you plant vine, grow up trellis

plant 2-2.5cm deep into soil with lots of compost

30cm between plants, 60-120cm between rows

pick when young, otherwise flavor becomes bitter; smaller varieties when ca 15cm, bigger ones around 20cm; use pruners to cut from vine; pickle any you don't eat fresh!

leave fruits well past point where you'd harvest for eating, until they're yellow/orange; but you need to isolate plants first, might be too much hassle; easier to buy seeds every year

loamy, well-draining

deeply, once a week, 2.5cm per week

shallow and long taproot

work compost into initial planting; add a bit of compost later in the growing season (or fertigate with low-nitrogen/high PK solution)

bush beans, cabbage, corn, dill, peas, pumpkin, lettuce, sunflower, broccoli, cauliflower, asparagus, radish

potato, sage, melon

remove yellowing/diseased leaves

have male and female blooms

thrips, aphids, stink bugs, cutworms, flea beetles, cucumber beetles, cabbage looper, scab, pythium fruit rot, phytophthora blight, cucumber mosaic, squash mosaic, aster yellows, bacterial wilt, bacterial leaf spot, angular leaf spot, verticillium wilt, target leaf spot, septoria leaf spot, fusarium wilt, powdery mildew, cercospora leaf spot, downy mildew, belly rot, anthracnose, alternaria leaf spot

Brassica oleracea var. italica

might need to cover with netting to help with pests

Dec 15; Apr 15

Jan 15; May 15

sow out twice a year (may have to start the spring ones indoors, but probably fine); plant seeds 1-2cm deep and 7.5cm apart, then thin out once seedlings 5-8cm tall

45-60cm between plants; 60-90cm between rows

harvest in the morning, leave the stem because it can grow more heads, consume within 5 days or store by blanching and freezing (stays good for up to 1 year); harvest before bolting (happens when temp exceeds 24C)

moist and fertile with good drainage

needs lots of water to keep soil moist but not soggy; about 3-4cm of water each week (more in drought)

apply new compost every 3 weeks

definitely mulch because of the shallow roots that can be disrupted by weeds

beets, cucumbers, dill, sage, spnach, swiss chard, celery, rosemary, garlic, lettuce, mint, onions, potatoes

cabbage, cauliflower, brussel sprouds, asparagus, cantaloupe, corn, pumpkin, watermelon, tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, greens, grapes

just cut off yellow/diseased leaves/stems

aphids, cabbage loopers, clubroot, cutworms, downy mildew, nitrogen deficiency

edible vegetable

around aug 15, then ready in dec/jan

λαχανάκια Βρυξελλών

Brassica oleracea var. gemmifera

perhaps provide some kind of support against the wind when they start getting tall; apparently not good for succession planting, but should definitely be rotated; seed saving is tricky for all the brassicas because they're biannuals, so you may just get new seeds every year; leaves are also edible (can probably be made into. boiled greens); 'jade cross' is a cultivar good for windy and hot locations

Dec 15; Apr 15

Jan 15; May 15

seed planting: about 1cm deep into soil amended with compost, thin seedlings to around 45-60cm; might have to stake

45cm between plants, 60-90cm between rows

best to harvest in late fall/early winter, when buds are 3-5cm large; they mature from bottom up so larger ones are at the bottom; grab the sprouts and twist to remove; plants continue to grow and new sprouts may form; last up to a few weeks in fridge; can cut off whole stalk and it will last longer

biennual (but treated as annual)

loam, sandy, clay, fertile, well-draining

once a week, 3cm per week, twice a week in dry weather

add compost when planting, and is a heavy feeder so keep adding compost about every 4 weeks-- but not too much! too much nitrogen causes misshapen tiny sprouts; brussel sprouts like boron, though

onion, corn, potato, celery, dill, peppermint, rosemary, sage, chamomile, peas, bush beans, spinach, garlic

pole beans, strawberry, kohlrabi, lettuce, nightshades

can cut off the tips eventually to direct the energy into the sprouts

flea beetles, aphids, clubroot, downy mildew, cabbage root maggots, whie mold, cutworms, thrips, leafminers, bolting

around aug 15, then ready in dec/jan

Brassica oleracea var. capitata

grows best at 16-18C

Dec 15; Apr 15

Jan 15; May 15

seed planting: about .5-.75cm deep into soil amended with compost, thin seedlings to around 45-60cm -- more space yields larger heads

45-60cm between plants, 60-120cm between rowa

once cabbage head has reached desired size, use sharp knife to cut head off at base of plant; remove entire root fro msoil to keep soil-borne diseases at bay; store cabbage in fridge for about 2 weeks, or up to 3 months in root cellar at 0-7C; if cabbage planted early enough, you could leave it in ground and it might produce a second head

biennual (but treated as annual)

sandy, loamy, well-draining

once a week, 3cm per week

apply new compost every 3 weeks

beans, cucumber, celery, dill, spinach, sage, thyme, onion, lettuce, potato, kale

tomato, broccoli, strawberry, cauliflower

anthracnose, black rot, alternaria leaf spot, damping off, clubroot, powdery mildew, sclerotinia stem rot, watery soft rot, white rust, bacterial soft rot, downy mildew, blackleg, ring spot, beet armyworm, cabbage aphid, cabbage looper, cutworms, diamondback moth, flea beetle, cabbage worm, thrips, root knot nematode

edible vegetable

around aug 15, then ready in dec/jan

can grow in between other vegetables to fill empty space and help prevent weeds; can seed in succession for continued harvest; good for loosening soil

Sep 15; Mar 1

Nov 15; Mar 31

Oct 15; Apr 1

Jan 31; May 15

plant into soil with lots of compost; water after planting but don't soak

2.5cm between plants, 10cm between rows

harvest when slightly bigger than a golf ball -- the bigger the woodier; pull up the plants, cut off the tops, and thin the roots; eat fresh

not worth harvesting, just buy new

full sun to partial shade

sandy, loamy, well-draining

keep soil moist but not waterlogged -- water when you water other plants; dry soil makes them bolt and spoils taste

only apply compost at the start, no more necessary

peas, beans, carrots, rosemary, cucumber, beet, squash, parsnips, lettuce, tomatoes, peppers, nasturtium, onions

hyssop, turnips, kohlrabi, grapes, potatoes

no pruning, just possibly thinning seedlings

downy mildew; cabbage root maggot; clubroot; harlequin bugs, snails and slugs; aphids; cutworms; flatbeetles; stink bugs; cabbage loopers

Brassica oleracea var botrytis

needs to be blanched to avoid discoloration; when the head is the size of a large egg, fold some of the larger leaves over the head and tuck/secure on other side, not too tightly, to block light but leave room for head to expand; try not to get wet once in place and check every now and then to make sure insects haven't made their way in

Sep 15; Mar 1

Sep 30; Mar 15

sow 3-4 seeds 1cm deep into soil with lots of compost, water regularly and thin seedlings

45-50cm between plants, 60-90cm between rows

harvest when heads reach desired size and buds are still tight; harvest by cutting entire head off base of plant with sharp knife; don't delay too long or plants may bolt; eat fresh or freeze or pickle

biennual (but treated as annual)

full sun or partial shade

rich, fertile, well-draining

need consistent moisture and a lot, 2.5-5cm per week, making sure it's soaking at least 15cm into soil; lack of moisture will cause heads to turn grainy

heavy feeders; use fish emulsion every few weeks; add boron if necessary; plant into lots of compost

rosemary, sage, dill, mint, thyme, sage, tansy, broccoli, brussel sprouts, beets, cucumber, beans, celery, radish, corn, spinach, chard

tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, potatoes, peas, strawberries, cabbage, onions, garlic

no pruning, just possibly thinning seedlings

pollinated by bees

aphids, cabbage loopers, clubroot, cutworms, downy mildew, nitrogen deficiency, cabbage maggot, flea beetles

edible vegetable

Brassica oleracea var. sabellica

will do best before and after heat of summer; hot weather turns kale bitter

can be sowed out anytime, likes cooler weather, germinates within a week; sow seeds into 1-1.5cm deep rows, then thin to 30cm apart

pick outer leaves first when they're about 20cm long; can't be stored for more than a few days

biennual (but treated as annual)

full sun or partial shade

loamy, well-drained soil

regular watering, 2.5-3.5cm per week

add compost after first leaf harvest (or nitrogen fertilizer tea, but if in rotation after nitrogen fixer, perhaps unnecessary)

yes (but take into account that it's a perennial and will continue growing if you just give it a nitrogen boost every now and then; but may be useful to treat as annual for the purpose of pest control)

dill, fennel, coriander, parsley, sweet alyssum, potatoes, beets, lettuce, chard, peas, garlic, onion, leeks, radishes, spinach, celery, cucumber, artichoke, herbs

tomatoes, strawberries, grape, rue

no; harvesting is essentially pruning

pollinated by bees

cabbage loaper; beet armyworm; large cabbage white and diamondback moth; cutworms; cabbage aphid; flea beetles; thrips; root-knot nematode; downy mildew; anthracnose; alternaria leaf spot; damping-off; black rot

keep seeding out (succession planting) for continuous harvest, about 3 weeks apart

Sep 15; Mar 1

Nov 30; Mar 15

Nov 15; May 1

Jan 31; May 31

sow into soil with lots of compost around .5-1cm deep; consider soaking seed clusters overnight to help soften the shell and speed germination; germination should take about a week in soil >10C, longer in cooler soil

8-10cm between plants, 30cm between rows

when beets are ~15cm long; dig out of ground with garden fork; when you bring them in, twist off tops instead of cutting, which can lead to flavor and color loss; store in a wooden box, in layers of straw or sand or brown paper, store the box in a cool, dry location up to 4 months; pickle/can some

you'll harvest the entire plant before it flowers and goes to seed in second year, so no point

biennual (but treated as annual)

full sun to partial shade

sandy, loam, well-drained; rocks can interfere with root development and should be removed (also weeds and clay)

2.5cm per week, even watering; water every day in the first 2 weeks,once sprouted only every 10-14 days

lots of compost in first planting; add compost every few weeks; provide boron via seaweed?

bush beans, butter beans, garlic, mint, head lettuce, cabbage, kale, broccoli, radish, corn, onion, cauliflower, chard, brussel sprouts

pole beans, field mustard, spinach, chard

not necessary except thinning seedlings/trimming off leaves for eating, or broken leaves

bacterial blight, scab, beet curly top disease, beet western yellow virus, cercospora leaf spot, damping off, downy mildew, root rot, powdery mildew, beet cyst nematode, root knot nematode, leafminers, darkling beetle

edible roots, edible leaves

Beta vulgaris var. cicla

keep seeding out (succession planting) for continuous harvest, about 3 weeks apart

Sep 15; Mar 1

Nov 30; Mar 15

Nov 15; May 1

Jan 31; May 31

plant seeds 1-2cm deep (they're actuallyclusters of 2-3 seeds in the berry) into lots of compost soil; later thin; cut instead of pulling when thinning

harvest while leaves are still glossy, snapping 2-3 leaves off outside of each plant -- it'll fill back in with new leaves

they mix with everything, so probably avoid

full sun to partial shade

rich, moist, well-draining

keep moist but not soggy

add compost mid-season

tomatoes, brassicas, alliums, beans, radishes, lettuce, celery, mint

herbs, potatoes, corn, cucumbers, melons

prune by harvesting

deer, slugs, leaf spot, aphids, flea beetles, leaf miners

keep seeding out (succession planting) for continuous harvest, about 3 weeks apart

Sep 15; Mar 1

Nov 30; Mar 15

Nov 15; May 1

Jan 31; May 31

plant seeds 1.5-2.5cm deep

15-30cm between plants, 30-35cm between rows

harvest when leaves are large enough to eat; pick leaves from the outside; wash and store in fridge for a week, or freeze

can let it bolt and then save seeds, but can mix with other varieties, so may be better to just keep buying seeds

full sun to partial shade

loamy, fertile, well-draining

just keep moist at the start; later 2.5cm per week; prefers multiple shallow waterings to one deep one per week

add compost 3 weeks after first hilling

eggplant, celery, cauliflower, corn, peas, strawberries, cabbage, kale, onion

prune by harvesting

mosaic virus, white rust, fusarium wilt, downy mildew, damping-off, anthracnose, aphids, armyworms, bulb mites, cutworms, darkling beetlers, flea beetles, earwigs, cabbage loopers, wireworms, nematodes, slugs, seedcorn maggot

great plant to start out a garden because it can grow even in heavy clay and fixes the soil (lot of farmers talk about this); can also be used as cover crop to fix nitrogen in rotation (in which case chop down half the plants before pods form so the nitrogen stays in the soil); produces a ton of biomass for mulching; bees love the flowers; can be used as windbreak; dwarf variety called "the sutton" is good for windy areas; save seeds for next season by drying pods first on plant then indoors, then put seeds in airtight container in freezer for a week, followed by regular storage in cool dark spot; growing in hot conditions facilitates disease and pests

soak seeds in water or inoculant (rhizobium bacteria) for 12-24 hours before sowing; plant seeds eye downward about 2.5-5cm deep in soil with compost; stake plants when young

15cm between plants, 60-90cm between rows

pick individual pods when plump and glossy by wisting off or using scissors (don't wait too long or beans will taste dry); fava beans have thick skins that need to be removed before cooking, but you can also eat them fresh in the skin (but out of the pod)

full sun or partial shade

different types but prefers loamy, moist, well-draining

2.5cm per week; during flower & fruit production, keep soil evenly moist but not soggy

not necessary except when planting

celery, cucumber, rosemary, potato, corn, nasturtium

onion, garlic, beets, fennel

once flowering, pinch off top few cm of growth to encourage bushier habit; prune plants to a few cm from the ground after harvesting ripe pods; if temperatures are still good, you can get a second harvest

aphids; black flies; pea and bean weevils; broad bean seed beetles; powdery mildew, fusarium root rot, mosaic virus, broad bean chocolate spot

edible seeds; windbreak; nitrogen fixer; mulch

mid march, kukia (broad beans)

love this lady talking about fava beans https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sSXhbtLiG9I and also here's a good article on handling fava as cover crop vs for fruit

3 types of beans: pole (tall and need support); runner (like pole but prefer cool conditions); bush (require no support)

plant with eye of bean facing down, 5cm deep (soak beans overnight before planting); don't plant in soil that's too wet, to prevent rotting; should sprout in 10 days; eventually provide support (stakes, trellis); keep seeding once a month for continuous harvest

10-15cm apart; 30cm between rows

harvest when young but large enough to eat; can be frozen or pickled

full sun or partial shade if too hot

water frequently, 1-1.5cm per week

deep taproot plus shallower system

not necessary except when planting

carrots, brassicas, eggplant, corn, herbs, marigolds, potatoes, cucumber, nasturtium, celery, tomato, peas, beets, strawberry

onion, scallions, leeks, garlic, pepper, basil, fennel, sunflower

pinch or cut top of pole beans to prevent from growing out of control

bean weevil, stem nematode, cutworms, japanese beetle, aphids, cucumber beetles, white mold, mosaic virus, downy mildew, leaf and pod spot, chocolate spot, bean rust, spider mites

any part of the plant growing above ground is toxic to pets and people, just like potato; can also be grown as perennial or from tubers instead of seeds; provide trellis or other support

soak seeds overnight; plant about 1-1.5cm deep; add lots of compost first

20cm between plants; 30cm between rows

ready to harvest once foliage has died off; stop watering a few weeks before harvesting to start curing process; harvest late in season to let tubers develop, but before they reach more than 15cm in diameter so they're tastier; dig the tubers out of the soil and remove the vine; store in cool, dark location (10-15C) to prevent from getting woody, up to 2 months -- careful, skin is toxic!

perennial (but usually treated as annual)

loamy, sandy, moist but well-drained

consistent, at least 5cm per week (but don't let soil get soggy)

add a potash boost once a month during growing season

if treated as annual, yes; otherwise move every 3 years

prickly pear, beans, corn, tomatoes, squash, peppers, eggplant

need consistent pruning while flowering; pinch out growth tips to encourage bushy dense growth; don't let go to seed; pinch flowers for added root production; deadheading flowers can increase root harvest

bush beans don't NEED support but a stake doesn't hurt; vines need trellis; trellis needs to be installed before planting for circulation; internet says you need at least 25 pinto bean plants (3.5m row) for 500g of beans -- fairly high effort, might be something for the bigger plot of land, in which case there's lots of types to grow: pinto, kidney, chickpea, lentils, split peas,

soak seeds in inoculant overnight; sow directly, no transplanting with eye facing downward 3cm deep

15cm between plants, 60cm between rows

harvest when pods are 10-15cm long and plump; shell and use immediately, or blanch and freeze; websites say pull up plant, but perhaps better to leave roots in ground for nitrogen, and just cut plant at base? harvest on completely dry day, let pods dry out completely, remove beans from pods and pick through to remove broken ones; pasteurize by placing in freezer for at least 48 hours or in oven in single layer on baking sheet at 72C for 30 minutes; then store in airtight container in cool, dark place

leave beans for seed-saving on plant until completely dried; remove from pods and discard diseased ones; let air-dry for a few days in cool, dark place until fully hardened and store in jar with tight-fitting lid or sealed container

well-draining, rich in organic matter

keep soil moist after planting until seeds germinate; then about 2.5cm per week; if top 3-5cm are dry, water (especially when flowering)

not necessary except when planting

corn, squash, cucumbers, strawberries, carrots, brassicas, eggplant, herbs, marigolds, potatoes,nasturtium, tomato, beets

alliums, pepper, basil, sunflowers,

pinch top of pole beans to prevent plants from growing out of control; no pruning for bush beans

aphids, leafhoppers, spider mites, Mexican bean beetle, bacterial blight, mosaic virus, white mold, fusarium root rot

μπιζέλι περιστεριού

produces for 5 year, then decreasing yields; grows well in compacted soil and helps loosen up soil

plant 2.5cm deep (just stick in ground); 2-3 weeks for germination

can use the green peas like fresh peas; for dried ones: cut branches with sickle when 2/3 to 3/4 of pods turn brown (after which new shoots grow from branches); leave harvested branches to dry in field for 3-4 days; then bundle and thrash by stick or machine; separate branches and sticks and winnow remaining threshed matter to separate chaff and seeds until seeds are separated; sun-dry clean seeds for another 3-5 days to reduce moisture content for storage; sieve through metal sieve to separate deformed/immature seeds and store biggest seeds in airtight container; when ready to use, de-hull to make split-pulse: de-hull by hand pounding in wooden pounder or on stone grinder

save some from later years for re-seeding?

any, but well-draining

can take very little water, do not waterlog; irrigate in prolonged drought, otherwise just water in thoroughly at the start and while getting established; better yield if irrigated during branching, flowering, and fruiting

it's a good companion for anything that needs shade or nitrogen

prune at any point if you want to use as mulch; but if you want to harvest, best to prune after harvest; but really can cut back every few months and they'll keep growing back stronger

root rot; wilt; powdery mildew; borers; aphids; pod-sucking bugs

edible seeds, windbreak, nitrogen fixer, insectary, firewood, chop and drop

https://permacultureplants.com/plants/pigeon-pea/ and https://www.tropicalpermaculture.com/pigeon-pea.html

use shade cloth in heatwave

sow 4-5cm deep

7.5-15cm apart; rows 45-60cm apart

100 days for fresh peas (eaten like snap peas); otherwise longer

for dried chickpeas: ready when entire plant withers and turns brown; then cut off at soil level (to keep nitrogen nodules on roots in soil) and lay on its side on a flat, warm surface and wait for the pods to open; bite test: if carefully biting a chickpea barely dents it, it's ready; separate the peas; dried seeds keep in airtight container for 2-3 years

full sun; can benefit from afternoon shade when hot

rich with organic material, well-draining

they like a lot of phosphorus and potassium; add plenty of compost before planting to increase organic material and drainage

with non-leguminous plants

after establishing

beets, brassicas, carrots, celery, chard, corn, cucumber, eggplant, potatoes, radish, strawberries

chives, garlic, leeks, onions, other legumes

might enjoy a trellis to train on; at maturity (before flowering) can prune tips of plant to produce more dry chickpeas

beet armyworm/ chickpea leafminer; bean beetles; cutworms; pod borers; blight; fusarium wilt; bean mosaic virus

has never done it

https://www.epicgardening.com/how-to-grow-chickpeas/

Petroselinum crispum

sprinkle parsley seeds on prepared soil and cover with .5cm soil, once temps are down to 28C; takes 2-3 weeks to germinate, can soak seeds before planting to speed up

pick young leaves regularly; harvest whole stems from base of plant to encourage growth, outer leaves first

allow seeds to mature on plant and cut off at stem once completely dry; store in an envelope until next year; simple

biennnial (but treated as annual)

full sun and afternoon shade

rich, moist, well-draining

keep moist or will bolt to see or go dry and crispy

deep taproot plus shallower system

fertigate a few times? probably not necessary

tomatoes, chives, carrots, corn, peppers, onions, peas, apple, rose

mint, lettuce, onion, chives, shallots

deadhead flowers and harvest regularly

leaf hoppers, crown rot, root rot, leaf spot, blight, powdery mildew, aphids, carrot weevil, slugs/snails

may be somewhat less hardy and not survive winter

sow out .5cm deep; make sure it's not too close to taller plants that will shade it out; thin seedlings later; can soak seeds before planting to speed up

can start harvesting when about 15cm tall; harvest leaves by pinching back portions of upper stem to promote new growth; don't take more than a third of leaves at a time

to harvest seeds, allow plant to flower, leave seed heads on plant to dry out, then shake into paper bag/envelope and store in dark, well-ventilated place

biennnial (but treated as annual)

full sun and afternoon shade

loamy, moist, well-draining

keep moist or will bolt to see or go dry and crispy

deep taproot plus shallower system

fertigate a few times? probably not necessary

anise, dill, leafy vegetables, legumes, potatoes, tomato, basil, parsley, chervil

chives, thyme, yarrow, tarragon, rosemary, lavender, fennel

harvesting is pruning; if you see flower stalks, you can snip it off to prolong leaf growth, otherwise let grow to harvest seeeds

aphids, whitefly, wilt, mildew

edible leaves, edible seeds

there are three types of celery: celeriac (root), leaf celery (foliage), stalk celery (crunchy stalk) -- these aren't just the same plant?? i guess not. this info is just for the stalk and foliage kind; it's apparently difficult to grow; require blanching, either by mounding or by placing cardboard collar around the lower part of the plant; start blanching only when stems are at least 30cm tall

sow at .5-1cm depth

15-30cm between plants; 45-100cm between rows

when stalks are at least 20cm long; cut towards the bottom with a knife, allowing it to keep growing;

biennial (but treat as annual)

full sun or partial shade in winter; full shade in summer

loam, clay, sandy, fertile

heavy watering, at least 2.5cm per week

thick layer of compost before planting; liquid fish fertilizer as fertigation every few weeks

beans, onions, cabbage, leek, cauliflower, spinach, tomato, cucumber, garlic, lettuce

corn, carrots, parsley, parsnip

no pruning, but need to tie the stalks together with twine to keep them from crawling over the ground

bacterial blight, soft rot, celery mosaic, damping off, early blight, downy mildew, late blight, fusarium yellows, powdery mildew, pink rot, armyworm, aphids, nematodes

Anethum graveolens

self-seeding, so you could have an area where you just let the seds fall to ground and germinate each year; useful to have a lot for pickling; can also keep sowing a few times so you keep having dill

sow at .5cm depth into soil amended with lots of compost; should push through within 14 days; thin out after another 14 days; protect seedlings from wind

harvest before flowering; snip leaves directly from the plant and chop before adding to recipe to release flavor; to dry, hang bunches in warm, dry part of house; store dried leaves in glass jar

to save seeds instead of allowing to self-seed, wait until plant flowers and forms pods; once pods are brown, snip bunches and shake seeds out (may need drying first); store in paper envelope

full sun and partial shade during heat

loamy, free draining, loose

regularly; don't let soil dry out or dill will bolt

just compost at the start, but if it looks wimpy, fertigate

cabbage, broccoli, corn, onion, lettuce, cucumbers, fennel, beans, radish, sunflower, eggplant, brussel sprouts, collards, caraway

carrots, coriander, tomato

can extend leaf harvest by snipping seed heads off before forming completely; pinch often to encourage bushier plant

aphids, cutworm, slugs/snails, tomato hornworms, mildew, damping off

edible seeds, edible leaves, edible flowers

two different types of fennel seeds: herb-type and bulb-type -- you want the bulb type; perhaps best to plant away from other stuff since it's somewhat allelopathic; also attract butterflies; keep away from dill or coriander because of cross-pollination

sow at .5cm deep; soak seeds in water for a day prior to planting to speed up germination; will germinate in 1-2 weeks; keep soil evenly moist

harvest fronds once plant is established by clipping off top portion and encouraging more growth (but never more than a third); pick seeds off once flowers have withered and gone brown; harvest bulb once plant is mature by pulling up the plants (will know that ready when base of stem is swollen); bulbs keep in fridge for a wee, eat fresh

shake seed heads over sheet/tarp to collect seeds; spread them in single layer in cool, dark, dry spot for 1-2 weeks; store in airtight container

perennial (but usually treated as annual)

moist, fertile, well-draining

water regularly until established; once healthy can tolerate some dryness; doesn't like soggy soil

add compost to initial planting; can add more every few months around base, or apply compost tea

dill, cucumber, nasturtium

tomato, beans, cilantro, kohlrabi

remove flowers to prevent plants from self-sowing -- otherwise, let flower since they attract pollinators

caterpillars, aphids, downy mildew, powdery mildew

edible bulb, edible seeds, edible leaves

definitely rotate with plants that have shallow root systems (carrots can search deeper in the soil for nutrients and help to loosen up the soil), require slight water stressing to really go searching for water; need to do lots of hand-weeding

sow six seeds at a time 0.5-1.5cm deep and about 2.5cm apart in rows; keep seeding every month to keep harvesting; when tops are 5cm, thin out to 5cm apart, 2 weeks later again to 7.5-10cm apart; soil must be moist for germination, but take care not to wash seeds away; set up drip tape when planting

8-10cm between plants

harvest in the morning, when greens are think with many layers of growth where they meet the root, shoulders of carrot should poke above the soil; hand pull, can basically leave them in soil until you need them; use trowel to loosen dirt so you don't damage them; harvest when soil somewhat dry but not parched, you need a touch of moisture but not sogginess; you can store them in boxes (first twist off tops and remove excess soil, but don't wash); can be canned

can let go to seed in second year, but you may not want to give up the space

biennial (but treat as annual)

loose and rock-free, sandy, well-draining (possibly in raised bed)

at least 2.5cm per week during dry weather

add compost beforehand (but people seem split on this)

include in rotation plan

mulch; if you see crowns, cover with mulch to keep from turning green and bitter

tomatoes (if planted at least 35-40cm apart); leeks; rosemary; sage; chives; radishes; lettuce; peas; onions

coriander; dill; parsnips; beetroot; fennel

small mammals like them; carrot rust flies, nematodes, leaf blight, vegetable soft rot, carrots yellow disease

4 major categories: head, romaine/cos, leaf, butterhead; interplant with warm-season vegetables like tomatoes so when lettuce is finished in early summer, warm-season veggies can take over; try endive?

Mar 1; Oct 1

Apr 15; Nov 1

Apr 15; Nov 15

Jun 30; Dec 15

sow at .5cm deep in soil with lots of compost; good in succession planting every 2-3 weeks for continued harvest

15-30cm between plants, 30cm between rows

harvest in the morning when lettuce is still plump; harvest cut-and-come-again types as soon as outer leaves are 15cm long; if growing head lettuce, harvest before head starts to elongate

full sun and partial shade

ligh, righ, well-draining

maintain even soil moisure or will bolt and turn leaves bitter; water regularly every 2-3 days throughout week anytime top 3cm of soil feel dry instead of weekly deep watering

add compost to initial planting; may need to provide additional fertilization via fish emulsion about 3 weeks after planting

corn, eggplant, peas, spinach, tomatoes, sunflowers, asparagus, carrots, cucumber, radishes, strawberries, beets, cilantro

onions, garlic, leeks, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, brussels sprouts, kale

harvesting is pruning

powdery mildew, downy mildew, aphids, cutworms, clugs, rabbits

produce well for 3-4 years when grown as perennials; lifespan can reach 15 years

Jun 1; Nov 1

Jul 1; Dec 1

May 15; Oct 15

June 15; Nov 15

plant out root divisions in autumn/winter OR plant seeds half a centimeter deep; germination after about a week; keep seeds moist but not soggy

buds turn into flowers, so harvesting has to happen before buds open (but can leave some for bees?); perennials are harvested in spring 2 years after planting; can be stored in fridge for 1-2 weeks, can be pickled

fertile and well-drained

regular watering (2.5-5cm per week), avoid drying out, but if soil too moist plant will suffer

stake to protect from wind, but they really don't like wind; try to find protected spot

preference for warm temps, dies with frost exposure, but requires chilling period to ensure budding

before planting, heavily amend with compost; requires a balanced feeding every 2-3 weeks during growing season

keep mulched to suppress weeds

peas; sunflowers; tarragon; violet; hollyhock; cilantro, cosmos, dill

corn; anything that needs space

important for perennials: remove lower leaves and offshoots to keep all energy going into the main stem; once all buds harvested, trim stem to the base

damping off; slugs/snails; aphids;cutworms; artichoke plume moth; botrytis blight; powdery mildew

edible vegetable

they have a bunch in kalivari, maria's husband, special variety

https://gardenerspath.com/plants/vegetables/grow-artichokes/

grow German, not Roman chamomile if you want tea -- but German is annual, Roman is perennial; has antibacterial and antifungal properties that will defend other plants

start indoors, be patient, takes 14-21 days to germinate; transplant from cells into 10cm pots once seedlings have 2 true leaves, to develop root systems; plant outside once 5cm tall and hardened off

harvest when flower petals have completely opened and flattened; pull flowers off by hand or using a blueberry harvester; dry for 1-2 weeks in cool dry place or use a dehydrator; store in glass jar with lid; use for tea!

full sun and partial shade

can handle tough conditions like clay or low nutrients

2.5cm per week; until flowering water gently each day (don't soak); once established, just once a week

plant into soil with compost, no extra amendments necessary

onions, cabbage, mint, beans, cucumbers, broccoli, kale, brussel sprouts, cauliflower, basil, kohlrabi, spinach, cilantro, calendula, lettuce, tomatoes, zinnias, petunias, verbena, bee balm, lilacs, roses, astilbe, dogweed

if perennial: prune entire plant back and don't leave clippings on ground; harvest frequently to keep blooming throughout summer

aphids, mealybugs, spider mites, scale, botrytis blight, powdery mildew, damping off, root and crown rot, rabbits

coming alone everywhere

can do succession planting; if growing tall variety, stake once plant has reached half its eventual height

directly sow into soil with lots of compost

15cm between plants, 75cm between rows

for bouquet: cut main stem that is holding the head before the flower has bloomed; for seeds: wait until flower has finished blooming, then cut head off and dislodge seeds by hand

can be harvested for food or to re-plant

soil needs to be loosened 60cm down and 90cm wide where you plan to plant, so taproots can spread out; mix compost into soil at least 20cm deep; well-draining soil necessary

when young, water regularly in a 8-10cm diameter around root when plant is dry (don't overwater); as plant gets older, water only once a week except in dry spells

probably doesn't need extra food; overfertilizing weakens the plant

bush beans, squash, cucumbers, corn, lettuce, plants with aphid problems

not necessary, but trim perennials once in late spring and once in summer; cut annuals to the ground once they show signs of browning

some self-fertile, some cross-pollinating

rust, powdery mildew, leaf mottle, empty seeds, downy mildew, birds and squirrels, moths

edible seeds, ornamental flowers, pollinator attractors

pseudo-grain, really pretty flowers; for continuous supply of leaves and flowers, plant 2 weeks apart, continuously; can eat greens throughout summer and harvest grain at end of season

in even rows, seeds barely covered with dirt. once planted, keep moist to encourage germination (under 1 week). thin them out once sprouted

rows 45cm apart, plants 20-45cm apart

leaves: 30-45 days, seeds: when leaves drop, flowers: before seed; after harvesting seeds, dry for 1-2 days and store in dark, dry place in airtight container; last for 1 year

flexible but prefers well-drained soil

keep soil moist at root level; few inches of water once or twice a week

needs support in heavy wind

not above 35C in June when plants start to flower

likes nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, so add compost; can add cottonseed meal or coffee grounds for drainage, in fall before spring planting

don't plant where brassicas were in previous year

once thinned, several inches of mulch against weeds

potato, onion, tomato, eggplant, pepper, marigolds (for nematode protection)

once thinned, several inches of mulch against weeds

tarnished plant bug, root-gall nematodes, mites, aphids, snails, cutworm, leafroller, leafminers, flea beetles, pigweed weevil, white rust, damping-off, wet rot and root rot, alternaria leaf spot, birds

10 plants for 500g of amaranth

https://morningchores.com/growing-amaranth/ -- https://www.vegetableacademy.com/post/growing-and-winnowing-our-own-amaranth-grain

in even rows, seeds barely covered with dirt. once planted, keep moist to encourage germination (4-5 days). replant areas that haven't sprouted after one week. when seedlins are 10cm tall, thin them out

store in an airtight container in a cool, dark location. stays fresh up to 6 months. wash before cooking!

full sun (but might like some shade during hottest part of day)

acidic to neutral, not picky, but best in fertile, well-draining loam

in the first few weeks water regularly; once larger and established, water during dry spells (but let first few inches of soil dry between watering)

not above 35C in June when plants start to flower

possibly peat moss or organic mulches for acidity; otherwise rotate with potato and nitrogen fixers

once thinned, several inches of mulch against weeds

beans, corn, dill, garlic, mint, rue

aphids, cabbage loopers, flea beetles, lygus bugs, slugs, wireworms, white mold

10 plants for 500g of quinoa

https://morningchores.com/growing-quinoa/

Asparagus officinalis

plant crowns (roots/rhizomes of year-old plants, looks like worn-out string mop; you can plant from seed but you'll harvest a year or two earlier); can grow for 20 years or more, if it really establishes, may be hard to get rid of, so choose site wisely; in late summer, female plants produce red berries that are toxic to humans, later in season the foliage turns into a fern (green then golden); plant will start growing shoots when soil temp is >4C; growth will be slow with temps >30C or <12C; perhaps provide some bamboo stake support for the ferns to keep space free

don't interplant with other crops! roots form tightly women mat and they don't like competition; decide on trench vs bed; soak crowns in lukewarm water for 30 mins; dig trench 30cm deep and wide, combine compost and other organic matter and create mounds about 45cm apart, set crown on top of mound with roots spreading down the sides, top of crown should be about 15cm below soil line, cover crown with soil and water well, when shoots appear add more soil, keep repeating until flush with soil line; keep weeding when plants are young

30-40cm between plants, 60-120cm between rows

when plants are 15-20cm tall and 1cm thick; don't harvest in the first 2 years after planting, to allow them to grow to full-size plants, just leave plants standing until they die back naturally in winter; in year 3, harvest up to 30% of speakers: use a sharp knife to cut the spear at ground level, cut at an agle so that rain runs off the cut part to reduce fungal risks and rot; harvest before spears start to fern; best eaten fresh, can keep in fridge a few days

full sun and afternoon shade

well-draining, sandy, loamy

heavy watering: young plants 2.5-5cm per week, older plants 2.5cm per week

add compost plus potassium and phosphorus boost before planting, nitrogen rich compost after (or water with compost tea), compost again after pruning in late autumn

tomato, basil, parsley, grape, beet, lettuce, spinach, dill, coriander, comfrey, rhubarb, strawberry, marigolds, nasturtium

onion, garlic, potato

cut them back to the ground each year before the new growth starts, once leaves have turned yellow and died back naturally

some yes, some no; for the most part, there are separate male/female plants; the male plants create the spears, the female plants go to seed -- so if you don't want self-seeding, remove female plants and keep only male ones

asparagus beetle, phytophthora crown and spear rot, cercospora blight, asparagus rust, fusarium wilt

he collects them and the mushrooms wild

plant slips; not related to potatoes; can usually get about 5 tubers per plant; come back every year in warm climate; experiment with planting as annual vs as perennial -- people say they use it as perennial cover crop, but then you don't really get benefit of dedicated big harvest

start making sweet potato slips 8 weeks before planting by laying sweet potatoes in a flat container of soil, they'll start sprouting -- once the slips are about 12-15cm long, remove from the sweet potato as low as possible and put in water jar, let root until you want to plant; planting: remove too many rocks from soil because you'll get weird shaped potatoes (not terrible); plant sweet potato slips in 30-cm wide hills or raised rows of soil with compost; cover slips in dirt but leave leaves expose; water once transplanted; plant so half of stem is above ground and roots are covered

30-45cm between plants, 90-120cm between rows

ready once foliage starts to yellow; don't let sit in ground too long after tops die back or they'll rot; cut back the vines to make it a bit easier; carefully dig out tubers by hand or move dirt gently with spade; keep out of sunlight and don't wash; cure: set potatoes in single layer (not touching) in warm (~26C) humid area for 10-14 days (can even put in large plastic bag) but not too long or they sprout, discard bruised potatoes; store in cool, dry area, eg in cardboard box filled with newspaper, not touching; uncured sweet potatoes only last a week; cured sweet potatoes last 4-7 months

you can make your own potato slips for next season, multiple techniques. but maybe not necessary if grown as perennial?

full sun with afternoon shade

loam, rich, well-draining

weekly, but don't overwater (rot); can tolerate growing in dry soil, but better to keep evenly moist; don't water during final 3-4 weeks before harvest to prevent tubers from splitting; better tolerance for dry than soggy conditions

NO nitrogen fertilizer; just add compost before planting or give phosphorus boost when planting

beets, parsnip, salsify, beans, potatoes, dill, thyme

squash, tomatoes

if necessary, thing out 20% of leaves to improve air circulation; weed regularly; don't cut off too many leaves (which are edible); keep sprawling vines from rooting or you'll get lots of small potatoes instead of some big ones

alternaria leaf spot, leaf and stem blight, black rot, fusarium and verticillium wilt, bacterial soft rot, common scab, potato leafroll, potato stem borer, aphids, cutworms, whiteflies, root knot nematodes, flea beetles, scurf

edible tuber, edible leaves

each flower only lasts for a day, but can see flowers throughout season if you let bush spread freely; flowers eventually turn into caper berries; lasts 30-50 years

easiest to buy plant, plant into a bunch of native soil with compost

buds: pinch off when pea-sized, before flowering, to pickle or ferment, like you'd find in the store; OR let them flower and have them eventually turn into caperberries, which are edible fresh and also picklable -- harvest before they split open and release seed

water sparingly once established; need more frequent watering at first planting

established capers thrive in highly infertile soil and don't need extra feeding; but when plant is still young, can feed a bit in spring and summer

sage, rosemary, thyme, mint, olives, any plant that likes dry hot conditions

prune a third every winter to encourage healthy new blooms; wait a few years for young plants to let them get established before pruning

cabbage moth, cabbageworms, flea beetle, flies, cucumber mosaic, aphids

edible buds, edible berries

growing wild, a few on the property

cool https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LAnUOhVUzWg

bright but indirect sunlight; tolerate low light better than direct sun (best in location with a tree to provide shade part of the day -- perhaps by the fruit trees?); keep seeding every 3 weeks for continuous harvest

don't start indoors; cut a row with a hoe and drop seeds in the ground; don't plant different varieties too close to each other; plant about 2.5cm deep, blocks of a few rows to allow pollination

20-30cm between plants, 75-90cm between rows

harvest once tassels start to turn brown; can or freeze and store for 10-12 months or can

save for next season (only if you're sure they didn't mix with another variety): cover ears of corn you want to save seeds from with a paper bag when first tassel appears; leave the cob(s) on the plant to dry for as long as possible, remove once fall weather turns damp; pull back husks and hang ears upside down in cool, dry spot to finish drying; remove seeds and keep in paper bag in cool, dry spot

picky; add compost for drainage in fall or early spring; doesn't like standing water but needs to be able to hold some moisture; loam

2.5cm per week, once a week deeply

no need for fertilizer if properly added compost before planting; put perhaps fertigate once plants are about 20cm tall, and again when tassels start producing

beans, cucumber, melon, parsley, potatoes, pumpkin, squash

corn smut, rust, stewart's wilt, seed rot disease, root rot, southern corn blight

from seed or propagate from cuttings -- will take 3 years to bloom when first planted

look for young nopals (more tender for eating, more mature ones contain more bad oxalates and have tougher texture); harvest in morning when acid content is lowest; use pliers to remove spines and a lighter to burn off glochids; can be stored up to 2 weeks in sealed plastic bag in fridge; fruits (tunas) can just be twisted off with tongs once they're a deep red

sandy or gravelly, well-draining, dry; can't handle rich soil

only in the driest time of year, minimal amount

no need for any amendments unless the nopales appear dull or the plant doesn't flower

only trim off parts beyond preferred size/shape; or trim off damaged/diseased/pest-infested parts; in this case trim off at juncture where pads meet; don't remove more than 30% of total paddles (can lead to shock otherwise)

rodents; tortoises; cochineal scale; phyllosticta pad spot

https://gardenerspath.com/plants/succulents/grow-prickly-pear/

need 2-month dormancy period of cool weather with temp between 4-10C; harvest in Sep-Oct for canning, leave small fruit to Jan-Feb to press for oil

dig a hole same diameter as root ball and slightly shallower, so top of root ball is just above ground level; don't add compost

harvest while olives still green or after fully ripening, depending on planned use; freshly picked olives are bitter and need to be cured before eating, by brining or sun drying; olive trees are alternate bearing (huge crop one year, none the next)

any well-drained soil (but not heavy clay); can grow in ph up to

spring and summer: water new trees deeply 2-3 times a week; established trees much less frequently, every few weeks, allow soil to dry out between waterings; fall and winter: possibly no watering depending on rain

don't over-fertilize; perhaps compost mulch layer once a year

Lavender, sage, rosemary, oregano, thyme, basil or to boost the olives with nitrogen, peanuts, chickpeas, beans. Many people have success growing asparagus under olive trees; marigolds or petunias or nasturtium to keep bad insects away; yarrow dill or fennel to attract pollinators

trees produce fruit on previous year's branches, so only prune lightly to open up canopy and increase light penetration; remove dead/diseased branches and prune away suckers

self-fertile but better yield with other variety nearby

verticillium wilt, olive fruit flies, olive knot, black scale

lots of guidance on pruning https://www.mediterraneangardensociety.org/pruning.html

if it gets too hot (above ~37C, will likely drop flowers and fruit); mexican and mexican-hybrid avocados are most heat-tolerant

might plant in an elevated mound to promote good drainage; don't plant in a depression or area where water naturally collects; plant in spring or fall (less watering needed in fall); dig a hole slightly larger than root ball, place root ball in hole, top of root ball level with surrounding soil; backfill with native soil and a bit of compost (not too much) and sand, on a slight mound; provide support stake for first two years

avocados don't soften on tree (unless you let them rot); should be harvested hard and finish ripening off the tree; to see if ready, harvest one, let it ripen 3-7 days, and try out;

moderately rich and well-draining, sandy loam

young trees like a good drink twice a week, later once a week; water less if heavy clay soil;

add compost to the planting hole, later as mulch; perhaps give compost tea once or twice a year

lavender, basil, onions, garlic, comfrey, melons (only for esatblished trees to avoid root competition), strawberries, sweet potatoes, squash, cilantro

anything with deep roots

shouldn't be necessary

technically you only need one tree and you should get fruit; but it's good to have one of type A and one of type B so the respective male and female bits flower at the right times, apparently this is better for the yield

mites; thrips; caterpillars

can be pruned much smaller than max size

dig hole 3-4 times larger than root ball; loosen roots; put tree in hole and backfill with equal parts compost and native soil; tamp down to remove air pockets; water deeply

pick leaves off tree for cooking; use immediately or store in a warm, dry place; after a few days they're ready; store in glass jar with sealed lid or hang small branch upside down in kitchen

full sun to partial shade

any soil, and very flexible on PH

water regularly to keep soil moist but not wet; allow soil to dry somewhat but not entirely between waterings

beans; rosemary; lavender; oregano; olive; citrus; pomegranate

potato; white pine

to control size and shape of plant; new dense growth will emerge from where you snip off branches

need a male and a female tree

not many; scale; mealybugs; spider mites; anthracnose; powdery mildew; phytophthora root rot

if temps above 30C regularly, provide partial shade mid-day; basil is notorious for bolting to seed prematurely (eg because of insufficient watering during hot summer) -- dead-head flowers to retain flavor in leaves; multiple places say seed basil around tomato seedlings for boost in tomato flavor and keeping pests off tomato; in frost-ree areas, you can allow some basil plants to set flowers and self-seed

sprinkle seeds and cover with soil .5cm deep; if started indoors, transplant when seedlings are at least 4-5cm tall

30cm between plants

keep picking leaves to keep plant producing more; to harvest seeds for storage, snip entire flower stalk once pods start to brown; place in paper bag until entire stem is brown and give bag a good shake to loosen the seeds; can't really store basil except to dry and store in glass jar

full sun to partial shade

well-draining and rich in organic matter

water well and regularly, 2.5-5cm per week, allow soil to dry out between watering

none needed except for initial compost

tomato, bell pepper, chili, beets, oregano, marigolds, beans, asparagus, petunias

rue, snap beans, cucumber, anise

aphids; leaf roller; cercospora; downy mildew; fusarium wilt; gray mold; root rot; slugs and snails; cutworms; flea beetles; japanese beetles; leafminers

can live up to 30 yeares; instead of planting bought plants, can propagate from cuttings

transplant into soil amended with compost

harvest whenever you need it; clip off sprig, never more than 1/3 of plant; can dry by hanging

loamy, sandy, well-draining

only water in dry periods, once every 1-2 weeks

side dress with compost or fish emulsion in spring

cabbage, sage, carrot, beans, broccoli

trim off up to a third in late fall

cottony soft rot, crown gall, aerial blight, downy mildew, powdery mildew, whiteflies, aphids, spider mites, spittlebugs

live for 5-6 years; divide every 4 years

propagate from stem cuttings in late spring

harvest anytime; flavor will be strongest just before flowering; don't harvest more than one third of plant at once; fresh thyme can be stored in fridge 1-2 weeks, or dry it by hanging upside down in warm, dark place or dehydrating; flavors are strongest right before flowering so that's when you should harvest the most, but can leave a plant or 2 to flower for the bees

loamy, sandy, actually like bad soil

only water in dry periods, once every 1-2 weeks

fertigate in spring

cabbage, tomatoes, potatoes, brussel sprouts, strawberry, eggplant

oregano, onion, garlic, marjoram, turnip

harvesting is pruning

alternaria leaf spot, root rot, botrytis rot, aphids, spider mites

perennial but should be replaced every five years when they become woody; don't harvest much in first year so plant can establish itself; best flavor right before plant flowers; stop harvesting 2 months before frost so frost doesn't damage new growth; can also propagate from stem cuttings in spring

plant seeds or seedlings into soil with lots of compost

gather leaves regularly and collect foliage for drying before plant flowers; don't harvest a lot in first year; don't take more than a third of the plant at once; either use fresh or dry

full sun to partial shade

well-draining, loose, plenty of nitrogen

only water in dry periods, once every 1-2 weeks

add compost or fertigate with high-nitrogen solution 6-8 weeks after planting

rosemary, cabbage, carrots, celery, broccoli, cauliflower, brussel sprouts, marjoram, tomato, beans, strawberry

cucumber, rue, onions

lightly in summer after flowering

pollinated by bees/butterflies

rust, powdery mildew, crown gall, leaf spot, root rot, verticillium wilt, whiteflies, aphids, slugs and snails, spider mites

perennial but should be replaced every five years when they become woody; best flavor right before plant flowers

can grow from seed or transplant or divide; if transplanting, wait until they are about 7.5cm tall, harden off

harvest before flowers bloom for best flavor; store in fridge for a week or dry by tieing stems together and hanging upside down

sandy, loamy, well-draining; shouldn't be too rich to avoid diluting pungency of herb

only water in dry periods, once every 1-2 weeks

can place wood ashes around oregano plants in winter to help lower soil acidity if necessary; side dress with compost or fish emulsion in spring

cucumber, melon, pumpkin, pepper, squash, broccoli, tomato, cabbage, cauliflower, eggplant, basil

harvesting is pruning -- remove sprigs/small branches when harvesting; but also: divide plant when center becomes brown and dried up; use spade to cut plant in half, add compost to hole you created when removing the plant; take other half and replant elsewhere/give to friends

pollinated by bees/butterflies

mint rust; botrytis rot; aphids; cutworms; thrips; spider mites

keep separated from other garden beds to prevent spreading and competition

plant in container so it doesn't become invasive; transplant when 7-10cm tall or sow from seed; plant into soil with lots of compost

harvest once plant has multiple stems that are 15-30cm long; best to harvest early in morning when leaves have highest amount of oils in them; don't harvest more than one third of the plant; store in fridge with cut ends in water or damp paper towel OR freeze leaves in water ice cubes

well-draining, rich, moist

keep moist but don't overwater

annual compost in spring

cabbage, tomatoes, broccoli, persimmon, yarrow, potato, petunia, tomato, squash, eggplant, brussel sprouts, bell peppers, lettuce, kohlrabi

chamomile, parsley, garlic, onion

trim down to 15cm to conserve energy during winter and encourage bushier growth next year; cut off flower buds to redirect energy to leaves, or leave intact to attract pollinators

pollinated by bees/butterflies

powdery mildew, mint rust, whitefly, aphids, thrips, cutworms, anthracnose

edible leaves; tea

challenging to start from seed, better to transplant; can live up to ten years, so will have to replace eventually; can self-seed, so can consider leaving some flowers on (but who knows where they'll spring up)

Apr 1; Aug 15

Apr 15; Aug 30

60-90cm between plants; 1-2m between rows

if using for oil: harvest when about half to a rhird of flower buds are open, cut low on stem about 5cm from stalk; dry lavender by hanging it in a dry, warm spot away from sunlight for 2-3 weeks; use in drinks and baked goods or for medicinal uses or in fresh bouquets or potpourris

warm, sandy, rocky, well-draining

once a week until established; then only during dry spells 2.5cm per week (once a week)

none (except to dial up pH at the start perhaps some lime)

rosemary; sage; thyme; broccoli, cabbage; pear; plum; peach; cherry; mint; apple

water-loving plants; shade-loving plants; plants that need rich soil; plants prone to fungal disease; invasive plants

yes; trim to keep the spaces between plants open and keep plant producing robust blossoms; once in spring before flowering and once at beginning of fall or after flowering

root rot; black mold; whitefly; aphids; spittlebug; lavender shab; xylella fastidiosa

medicinal flower; edible flowers; scents

best to propagate from cutting, not from seed (slow to grow); can be used as substitute for lemon zest or fresh lemons

moisten cutting and put into the soil; put plastic bag over pot, creating mini-greenhouse; once plant takes root, switch to a container/soil with rich content

can harvest continuously (cutting new stem leads to new growth); don't pick off leaves, instead cut stem back to within a quarter of a leaf or node; leaves are most flavorful when plant is flowering; can story by drying leaves individually on screens or bundling stems and hanging upside down in dark, dry location; store dried leaves in sealed containers in dark place, crumble leaves before using; works great in ice cream, shortbread, custard, pesto, chicken, TEA

full sun to partial shade

loose, well-draining, rich

water regularly, but don't keep roots wet; water when top 5-8cm of soil are dry

heavy feeder; water with compost tea during growing season

lemon grass; apple; apricot; bee balm; dill; cilantro; basil

shade-loving plants

prune regularly; remove dead wood first; spring pruning helps contain growth, other prunings help keep tidy

leafminers; mites; aphids; scale

plant rhizome (probably from nursery so not treated with sprout inhibitor); perhaps in shade of tomatoes or other large plant that will provide shade; plant in trench and do mounding/hilling to cover up new pink parts to encourage more growth

plant pieces of fresh root showing signs of shoots, with eyes pointing up; might have to start indoors because it prefers soil temps between 20-27C

can wait for plant to die back or check size of rhizome and pull while it's still green; store ginger unpeeled in plastic bag with no air

full sun to partial shade

well draining loam

regularly, but don't waterlog soil; at the very start, don't water too much or it might rot; if sweltering, mist leaves to mimic humid environment; reduce water in autumn to encourage rhizome growth

add compost before planting, add small amount of sand for drainage; perhaps water every few weeks with seaweed

sunflowers; peas; beans; kaffier lime; chili peppers; cilantro; lemon grass; nasturtium; hibiscus; bananas; garlic; fruit trees; turmeric; cilantro

walnut, tomato, eggplant

cut back spent stems in autumn once they die back, to encourage healthy new growth next year

bacterial wilt; fusarium; root-knot nematode and burrowing nematode

if rhizomes look dry and shriveled, soak in tepid water for 24 hours; cut large rhizomes with many buds into 1-3-inch pieces so each piece has at least 2-3 buds; plant pieces about 5cm deep with budgs pointing up into soil with lots of compost

once foliage has started to yellow and fade, dig out some of the rhizomes; leave part of each one in the ground to regrow next spring; fresh turmeric keeps in fridge for a few weeks; for longer storage, dry to grind into powder, or freeze

full sun to partial shade

rich soil, well-draining

water moderately at the start, otherwise you might get root rot; later, water regularly in absence of rain to keep soil consistently moist but not soggy

heavy feeder, fertigate once a month

banana, apple, apricot, beans, cilantro, fig, ginger, lemongrass, peach, pear, pea, pepper, plum, pomegranat

eggplant, goji berry, tomatoes

cut off brown leaves (these may mean the plant needs more water)

spider mites, slugs and snails, soft rot, dry rot, fusarium rot, rhizome rot

Amomum subulatum

only try in tropical microclimate, this plant doesn't like temps below 21C; you can bring it indoors but then it doesn't produce flowers or seed pods; might do better inside greenhouse, but then it won't flower, defeating the point (but perhaps overwinter in greenhouse or in bathroom?); lives 10-15 years

plant with other shade-tolerant herbs, greens, or veggies or in a rain garden (perhaps this is where the greywater should go?); pre-soak seeds overnight; plant seeds 1-1.5cm apart, right under surface, in partial shade; germination takes 30-40 days

hand-pick each seed pod when it's starting to split or pulls away from the plant easily; prevent air/oxygen exposure by keeping in airtight containers, keep cool and dry and away from sunlight; pods mature in about 120+ days

save some of the seeds for re-planting? don't need them but maybe for friends?

partial to full shade

loamy, fertile, plenty of compost

mist regularly; water regularly but don't overwater; prefers stable conditions without much climactic change or natural light exposure

phosphorus boost twice a month during growing season, only after rain, not before; add compost once a year; withhold fertilizer from October to March

other shade and water loving plants

not necessary, but can remove dead/damaged leaves or trimming down to preferred size

pollinated by bees/butterflies

thrips, cardamom mosaic virus

make sure to keep mulch 30cm away from trunk to avoid fungal problems

can be planted any time of year;If the roots seem tangled or like they’re growing in circles, gently score up and down the sides of the root ball several times with a knife. This breaks up the bound roots and encourages them to grow outward; Dig a hole that’s about 1.5 times the width of the root ball and about as deep as the root ball is tall. Like most trees, citrus trees should be planted slightly above the depth that they were at in the container; planting too deeply can cause water to pool around the trunk, leading to rot and disease. Planting slightly higher than the surrounding soil ensures that water will run away from the trunk.
Note: If planting a grafted variety of citrus, make sure that the graft union is 4 to 6 inches above the soil level. ; Place the tree in the hole and backfill with soil. When the hole is half filled, spray with water to settle it and flush out air pockets, then continue filling with soil. Water again to settle the soil after the hole is filled.
Tip: Do NOT add special soil or fertilizer to the planting hole

pick off tree gently -- ideally prune the branch back directly to where it can continue to grow, i.e. right above a leaf so it can send out new growth, at an angle; you may have abundance that you don't know what to do with; can be stored for 3-8 weeks at fridge temperatures (but cold isn't good for the taste), better to leave on plant 2-4 months

fertile, well-drained, avoid water-logging

don't keep tree in super moist soil, let top soil dry out between watering

warm and humid, doesn't like it too dry

relatively shallow, can have deep taproot

none initially; they like a good nitrogen bump so either pee on it every now and then (Jan/Feb just prior to bloom, second time in May, third time in June, but not after); in case of zinc or iron deficiency, foliar application of liquid chelated micronutrient solution; or check pH and add appropriate soil amendments to keep slightly acidic

dill; yarrow; lemon balm; fennel; cilantro; thyme; basil; rosemary; borage; alfalfa; marigold; clover; hyssop; parsley; comfrey; don't plant thirsty plants right under tree; petunias; marigolds; legumes for nitrogen

corn; sweet potato; cowpea; sorghum

in first year of tree's life, remove all the fruit so all energy goes into roots; once a year to trim away diseased, damaged, or overcrowded section; they naturally have an open-spreading habit, so no need to prune for habit; or just constantly as you harvest

aphids, anthracnose, root rot, citrus canker, huanglongbing, tristeza disease, citrus leafminer, soft scales, thrips, spider mites

make sure to keep mulch 30cm away from trunk to avoid fungal problems; assumed variety: navel oranges -- harvest is different for valencia (apr - oct)

can be planted any time of year but best in late winter/early wpring;If the roots seem tangled or like they’re growing in circles, gently score up and down the sides of the root ball several times with a knife. This breaks up the bound roots and encourages them to grow outward; Dig a hole that’s about 1.5 times the width of the root ball and about as deep as the root ball is tall. Like most trees, citrus trees should be planted slightly above the depth that they were at in the container; planting too deeply can cause water to pool around the trunk, leading to rot and disease. Planting slightly higher than the surrounding soil ensures that water will run away from the trunk.
Note: If planting a grafted variety of citrus, make sure that the graft union is 4 to 6 inches above the soil level. ; Place the tree in the hole and backfill with soil. When the hole is half filled, spray with water to settle it and flush out air pockets, then continue filling with soil. Water again to settle the soil after the hole is filled.
Tip: Do NOT add special soil or fertilizer to the planting hole

pick off tree gently -- ideally prune the branch back directly to where it can continue to grow, i.e. right above a leaf so it can send out new growth, at an angle; you may have abundance that you don't know what to do with; can be stored for 3-8 weeks at fridge temperatures (but cold isn't good for the taste), better to leave on plant 2-4 months

fertile, well-drained, avoid water-logging

don't keep tree in super moist soil, let top soil dry out between watering

warm and humid, doesn't like it too dry

relatively shallow, can have deep taproot

none initially; they like a good nitrogen bump so either pee on it every now and then (Jan/Feb just prior to bloom, second time in May, third time in June, but not after); in case of zinc or iron deficiency, foliar application of liquid chelated micronutrient solution; or check pH and add appropriate soil amendments to keep slightly acidic

dill; yarrow; lemon balm; fennel; cilantro; thyme; basil; rosemary; borage; alfalfa; marigold; clover; hyssop; parsley; comfrey; don't plant thirsty plants right under tree; petunias; marigolds; legumes for nitrogen

corn; sweet potato; cowpea; sorghum

in first year of tree's life, remove all the fruit so all energy goes into roots; once a year to trim away diseased, damaged, or overcrowded section; they naturally have an open-spreading habit, so no need to prune for habit; or just constantly as you harvest

aphids, anthracnose, root rot, citrus canker, huanglongbing, tristeza disease, citrus leafminer, soft scales, thrips, spider mites

doesn't have orange, but has a quince tree

make sure to keep mulch 30cm away from trunk to avoid fungal problems

can be planted any time of year;If the roots seem tangled or like they’re growing in circles, gently score up and down the sides of the root ball several times with a knife. This breaks up the bound roots and encourages them to grow outward; Dig a hole that’s about 1.5 times the width of the root ball and about as deep as the root ball is tall. Like most trees, citrus trees should be planted slightly above the depth that they were at in the container; planting too deeply can cause water to pool around the trunk, leading to rot and disease. Planting slightly higher than the surrounding soil ensures that water will run away from the trunk.
Note: If planting a grafted variety of citrus, make sure that the graft union is 4 to 6 inches above the soil level. ; Place the tree in the hole and backfill with soil. When the hole is half filled, spray with water to settle it and flush out air pockets, then continue filling with soil. Water again to settle the soil after the hole is filled.
Tip: Do NOT add special soil or fertilizer to the planting hole

pick off tree gently -- ideally prune the branch back directly to where it can continue to grow, i.e. right above a leaf so it can send out new growth, at an angle; you may have abundance that you don't know what to do with; can be stored for 3-8 weeks at fridge temperatures (but cold isn't good for the taste), better to leave on plant 2-4 months

fertile, well-drained, avoid water-logging

don't keep tree in super moist soil, let top soil dry out between watering

warm and humid, doesn't like it too dry

relatively shallow, can have deep taproot

none initially; they like a good nitrogen bump so either pee on it every now and then (Jan/Feb just prior to bloom, second time in May, third time in June, but not after); in case of zinc or iron deficiency, foliar application of liquid chelated micronutrient solution; or check pH and add appropriate soil amendments to keep slightly acidic

dill; yarrow; lemon balm; fennel; cilantro; thyme; basil; rosemary; borage; alfalfa; marigold; clover; hyssop; parsley; comfrey; don't plant thirsty plants right under tree; petunias; marigolds; legumes for nitrogen

corn; sweet potato; cowpea; sorghum

in first year of tree's life, remove all the fruit so all energy goes into roots; once a year to trim away diseased, damaged, or overcrowded section; they naturally have an open-spreading habit, so no need to prune for habit; or just constantly as you harvest

aphids, anthracnose, root rot, citrus canker, huanglongbing, tristeza disease, citrus leafminer, soft scales, thrips, spider mites

make sure to keep mulch 30cm away from trunk to avoid fungal problems

can be planted any time of year;If the roots seem tangled or like they’re growing in circles, gently score up and down the sides of the root ball several times with a knife. This breaks up the bound roots and encourages them to grow outward; Dig a hole that’s about 1.5 times the width of the root ball and about as deep as the root ball is tall. Like most trees, citrus trees should be planted slightly above the depth that they were at in the container; planting too deeply can cause water to pool around the trunk, leading to rot and disease. Planting slightly higher than the surrounding soil ensures that water will run away from the trunk.
Note: If planting a grafted variety of citrus, make sure that the graft union is 4 to 6 inches above the soil level. ; Place the tree in the hole and backfill with soil. When the hole is half filled, spray with water to settle it and flush out air pockets, then continue filling with soil. Water again to settle the soil after the hole is filled.
Tip: Do NOT add special soil or fertilizer to the planting hole

pick off tree gently -- ideally prune the branch back directly to where it can continue to grow, i.e. right above a leaf so it can send out new growth, at an angle; you may have abundance that you don't know what to do with; can be stored for 3-8 weeks at fridge temperatures (but cold isn't good for the taste), better to leave on plant 2-4 months

fertile, well-drained, avoid water-logging

don't keep tree in super moist soil, let top soil dry out between watering

warm and humid, doesn't like it too dry

relatively shallow, can have deep taproot

none initially; they like a good nitrogen bump so either pee on it every now and then (Jan/Feb just prior to bloom, second time in May, third time in June, but not after); in case of zinc or iron deficiency, foliar application of liquid chelated micronutrient solution; or check pH and add appropriate soil amendments to keep slightly acidic

dill; yarrow; lemon balm; fennel; cilantro; thyme; basil; rosemary; borage; alfalfa; marigold; clover; hyssop; parsley; comfrey; don't plant thirsty plants right under tree; petunias; marigolds; legumes for nitrogen

corn; sweet potato; cowpea; sorghum

in first year of tree's life, remove all the fruit so all energy goes into roots; once a year to trim away diseased, damaged, or overcrowded section; they naturally have an open-spreading habit, so no need to prune for habit; or just constantly as you harvest

aphids, anthracnose, root rot, citrus canker, huanglongbing, tristeza disease, citrus leafminer, soft scales, thrips, spider mites

make sure to keep mulch 30cm away from trunk to avoid fungal problems

can be planted any time of year;If the roots seem tangled or like they’re growing in circles, gently score up and down the sides of the root ball several times with a knife. This breaks up the bound roots and encourages them to grow outward; Dig a hole that’s about 1.5 times the width of the root ball and about as deep as the root ball is tall. Like most trees, citrus trees should be planted slightly above the depth that they were at in the container; planting too deeply can cause water to pool around the trunk, leading to rot and disease. Planting slightly higher than the surrounding soil ensures that water will run away from the trunk.
Note: If planting a grafted variety of citrus, make sure that the graft union is 4 to 6 inches above the soil level. ; Place the tree in the hole and backfill with soil. When the hole is half filled, spray with water to settle it and flush out air pockets, then continue filling with soil. Water again to settle the soil after the hole is filled.
Tip: Do NOT add special soil or fertilizer to the planting hole

pick off tree gently -- ideally prune the branch back directly to where it can continue to grow, i.e. right above a leaf so it can send out new growth, at an angle; you may have abundance that you don't know what to do with; can be stored for 3-8 weeks at fridge temperatures (but cold isn't good for the taste), better to leave on plant 2-4 months

fertile, well-drained, avoid water-logging

don't keep tree in super moist soil, let top soil dry out between watering

warm and humid, doesn't like it too dry

relatively shallow, can have deep taproot

none initially; they like a good nitrogen bump so either pee on it every now and then (Jan/Feb just prior to bloom, second time in May, third time in June, but not after); in case of zinc or iron deficiency, foliar application of liquid chelated micronutrient solution; or check pH and add appropriate soil amendments to keep slightly acidic

dill; yarrow; lemon balm; fennel; cilantro; thyme; basil; rosemary; borage; alfalfa; marigold; clover; hyssop; parsley; comfrey; don't plant thirsty plants right under tree; petunias; marigolds; legumes for nitrogen

corn; sweet potato; cowpea; sorghum

in first year of tree's life, remove all the fruit so all energy goes into roots; once a year to trim away diseased, damaged, or overcrowded section; they naturally have an open-spreading habit, so no need to prune for habit; or just constantly as you harvest

aphids, anthracnose, root rot, citrus canker, huanglongbing, tristeza disease, citrus leafminer, soft scales, thrips, spider mites

choose low chill hour variety (minimum is around 250 hrs?); semi-cling or semi-freestone or freestone; they all ripen at once, so figure out what to do with them!! they bloom before they leaf out; issues with late frost, but probably not for us?

mix compost into planting hole

pick when fruits are orange but still firm; handle gently; eat fresh or cook or can

loamy, well-draining, organically rich

saturate soil at least weekly

add compost in early spring before new growth

against pests: basil, onion, wormwoo, garlic; strawberry, grape, asparagus, tansy, comfrey, nasturtium

tomatoes, peppers, potato, eggplant, petunia, sage

once a year before budding/leafing; prune for open center with central trunk and several main branches that form vase shape; remove dead/diseased branches

most are self-fertile

not as finicky as peaches; bacterial canker; brown rot; peach leaf curl; cherry slug; sorynium blight; scale; rodents; aphids; ants; brown marmorated stink bug; rust; sunscald

may only blossom every other year; might have to get second tree depending on variety

dig hole twice the size of root ball, don't amend or fertilize

pick when fruit reaches mature size but before it softens/ripens; finish ripening on counter

ok with wet soil but should be well-draining

new trees: 2-3 times per week; mature trees: 20l per week

depends on variety

marigolds; nasturtiums; bee balm; clover; peas; beans; garlic; borage; sweet woodruff; foxglove

potato; grass; wheat; rye; oat

powdery mildew; amillaria root rot; fire blight; aphids; pear psylla; spring pear cankerworm

healthy young tree should be adding 7.5-10cm of new growth every year; need a certain number of chill hours every year; avoid pruning when there has been lots of rain

plant with grant union about 2.5cm above soil line; work compost into planting hole before adding tree

ready to harvest when sweet and slightly soft; fruit won't ripen all at the same time, so harvest a few at a time; eat fresh, keep in fridge for a week, or freeze or make jam or dry them into prunes

sandy, loamy, well-draining, but pretty tolerant

about 2.5cm per week during first two seasons (deep watering every ten days)

need lots of nitrogen; in fall, spread thick layer of compost around trees; in spring spray newly emerged leaves with fish emulsion

lavender; comfrey; garlic; nasturtium; strawberry; tansy; chamomile; chives; marigold; borage

black walnut; white pine; hawthorns

yes; use central leader method

crown gall; bacterial canker; powdery mildew; plum curculio; black knot; brown rot; blum borer; leaf roller; cherry fruit fly; rose chafer; japanese beetle; thrips; scab; birds

is beside the water tank, very young and needs to be watered. is it a sour cherry (edible) or actually a bitter cherry (not edible)?

almond takes 7-8months to mature, so needs very long growing season; blooms on new year's growth

dig hole 45-60cm deep; be careful when placing taproot into hole, make sure it's firmly on bottom for support; add compost to the soil for back-filling

when hulls start to split apart to reveal the light colored shell, it's time to harvest; lay down a tarp to catch the almonds, and tap branches with a pole; after gathering, dry them properly to avoid mold: 1. remove hulls 2. spread nuts out with shells still on, in thin layer across a table with a screen top, cover the shelled nuts with mesh to prevent birds taking them 3. check if drying is complete by sampling the nuts -- if rubbery, not yet dry, if hard, they're ready 4. once dried, bring the nuts with their shells still on indoors and store for up to 8 months

well-draining, loamy, no clay

very water-intensive, 7.5-10cm per week; but don't overwater or you'll get root rot

compost once a year

mulberry; persimmon; raspberries; chives, garlic, clover, marigolds, dandelions, flowers, comfrey, lavender, rosemary, sage

tomatoes; potatoes

prune when dormant (more important to prune older than younger trees): remove awkward/weak/dead/diseased/crossing branches

mostly not self-fertile, but you can find self-fertile varieties

naval orangeworm, leafrollers, aphids, scale, spider mites, canker, anthracnose, leaf spot

3 types: clingstone, freestone, semi-freestone; don't last longer than at most a decade or two; find variety that has as low a required number of chilling hours as possible

plant in early spring/late winter; water immediately after planting; in first two years, remove blossoms to reroute energy to root system production; stake immediately after planting; mulch with compost

pick off tree; eat fresh or can or dry; once dried, can be stored for 6 months

well-drained, fertile soil; no water-logged roots

water frequently and evenly when still young (but don't overwater); water every 10-14 days during warm dry periods

basil; garlic; peas; beans; clover; marigold; chamomile; comfrey

apple; corn; sweet potato; cowpeas; potato; tomato; raspberry

essential. to be wind-tolerant, prune short and open. get rid of broken/dead branches continuously, remove suckers at base of tree; get rid of weak branches that can't hold heavy fruit set; prune branches that are too close together; remove some young peaches to help other fruit grow bigger; DON'T prune when dormant, instead prune when you see the buds turn pink

bacterial leaf spot; crown gall; peach scab; brown rot; rust; leaf curl; root rot; leafroller; oriental fruit moth; aphids

needs a certain number of chill hours, depends on variety; prune when leaves have shed but before new buds appear, just before new growth in spring

soak roots a few hours before planting; dig hole at least 2x as wide as diameter of plant roots and at least 60cm deep; can amend with peat moss, compost, and bonemeal in hole when planting

pick off tree with a bit of stem still attached

moist but well-draining and fertile

young trees need 5cm per week; older trees just like moist soil; older trees need about 2.5cm every 10 days

young trees: ring of 6cm compost around trees every year; if soil low in phosphhorus or calcium sprinkle 500g bone meal around each tree with compost; keep cover crops for nitrogen like clover

comfrey; nasturtium; chamomile; coriander; dill; fennel; basil; lemongrass; mint; chive; garlic

once a year in winter, dead/diseased branches and suckers; branches that grow intwards towards trunk or are cutting in front of others; after third year, start shaping tree in central leader style; thin fruit so they're 15cm apart on branch

self-fertile, but bigger yield if you have 2

apple scab; codling moth; aphids; apple maggot; apple bud moth; apple tree borer; gypsy moth; japanese beetle; leafhopper; mites; black rot; crown and collar rot; sooty blotch and flyspeck; fire blight

should of course be vine, not tree, done for R; can also propagate from stem cuttings; 4 different varieties: erect, thorny, thornless, trailing; need some number of chill hours to set fruit

Mar 1; Sep 1

Mar 15; Sep 15

Apr 1; Nov 1

Apr 15; Nov 15

plant when canes are dormant in early spring into hole about 2.5cm deeper than nursery pot with a nice amount of compost

pick when black; last about a week in fridge; can make jam/preserves out of over-abundance or freeze

full sun to partial shade

rich, well-draining loam

add compost in spring and fall

tansy, hyssop, mint, chive, blueberry, beans, garlic, grapes, borage

tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants, peppers, raspberries

roots are perennial but canes are biennial; so second-year canes that have produced fruit need to be trimmed away after harvesting; established shrub: new canes that haven't fruited yet should be tip-pruned to about 1m in summer, causing new canes to branch out; once canes produce fruit, remove to ground immediately after fruit harvest; in early spring before new groth has started, remove canes damaged by winter and thin out remainder to 4 or 5 strongest canes

anthracnose, stem blight, crown gall, stink bugs, raspberry crown borers, calico virus

not tasty fresh; cook into jams

dig a hole twice as wide as roots; set tree in hole at same depth as in nursery container; spread roots out when placing seedling in hole

fruit ripens only off the tree; once fruiting, wait until fall to harvest; fruit is ready to pick when golden yellow/orange and fragrant; let ripen in cold storage in single layer, rotating fruit every few days

full sun to partial shade

well-drained, slightly moist, never completely dry, rich in organic matter

deep watering every 2 weeks to once a month; insufficient water results in fruit drop; overwatering can lead to onset of fire blight

compost in winter

marigold; nasturtium; chamomile; dill; comfrey; chives; garlic; alyssum

after last frost, prune dead/damaged/diseased branches and remove low branches; fruit develops on old growth, so don't prune back tips of branches too hard; remove suckers immediately from base of tree

self-fertile, but bigger yield if you have 2

codling moth; fire blight; quince leaf blight; san jose scale

should of course be bush, not tree, done for R; can be complicated to grow; CAN plant in ground, but might be better in raised bed or pot for better drainage; sounds way too annoying to start from seed, just buy seedlings; strawberries produce extensions (daughters) of themselves -- daughter of OG is fine to keep around, but the granddaughters need to be removed because they won't produce the same yields -- move the daughters elsewhere and treat them well (the mothers won't produce good yield anymore after year 3 of production, so you want to keep establishing new patches)

Apr 15; Oct 15

Apr 30; Oct 31

plant at .5cm in deep and wide planting holes to accommodate seedling root system without bending; have plenty of compost in soil; don't plant where strawberries, tomatoes, peppers, or eggplant; have been planted in past few years; can also plant bare roots instead of seedlings (cheaper)

35-60cm between plants, 90-120cm between rows

harvest when fully red, 4-6 weeks after blossoming; cut at stem instead of plucking by hand

loamy, sandy, well-draining, rich in organic matter

2.5-3.5cm per week, regular watering

fertilize a month after transplanting, then every fall/spring; don't over-fertilize or you'll get poor flowering

bean, chive, borage, peas, radish, spinach, onion, lettuce, marigold, sage, fennel, dill, coriander, caraway, asparagus, horseradish, rhubarb, thyme

cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, brussel sprouts, collard greens, kale, kohlrabi, okra, melon, rose, celery; potato

don't allow strawberry plants to produce fruit in first year (so they can focus on developing healthy root system), so pinch flowers off when you see them; move daughter plants in the fall

angular leaf spot, leaf scorch, anthracnose, gray mold, leaf spot, phomopsis leaf blight, powdery mildew, red stele, slugs, aphids, armyworm, Japanese beetle, loopers, thrips, weevils, spider mites

keep at least 6m away from structures because of deep roots; consider thinning the fruit; figs have two crops, one in late spring, the other in late summer -- first one can be inedible

May 1; Aug 15

Jun 15; Sep 30

dig hole deep enough for roots and cover with native soil, make sure there are no air pockets

ready to harvest when neck of fruit starts to wilt and fruit is sagging; if you want to store, cut off with scissors and leave part of stem attached; fig sap can irritate skin with too much exposure, so if harvesting a lot, wear arm protection/gloves; store in coolest part of fridge away from other produce, but better to preserved for long-term storage (freeze, dehydrate, can)

well-draining, tolerates lots of soil types

water once a week when establishing; keep consistently moist when fruiting

none, or a bit of compost once a year

strawberries; rhododendron; marigolds

beets; carrots; peas; lettuce; potatoes; radishes; tomatoes; peppers; cucumbers; squash; eggplant; okra

light; remove dead/damaged/diseased portions of tree once a year

nematodes, birds, rust

there's already a male tree right next to the jacaranda; get a female tree for fruit, plant away from common paths because of the mess that the berries make; black mulberries are more flavorful, but red is hardier and can grow in shade; don't get white; make sure not to get invasive species! eg illinois everbearing, oscar, dwarf black, or weeping are good; choose seedless cultivar to affect invasive spreading

Nov 1; Mar 1

Nov 30; Mar 31

plant young tree in hole at least twice the size of root ball and include plenty of compost in hole; plant far away from important structures because the roots will impinge

6-8m (regular) or 3m (dwarf)

can pick off tree by hand or put tarp underneath and shake; have to eat pretty soon (a few days in the fridge); can be frozen up to 3 months

moist, well-drained soil

2.5cm per week until established

yes (depends on cultivar)

can add compost in spring, spread out to drip line; no composting after Jul 30! (excess growth, not winter hardy)

chives; marigold; garlic; lemon balm; nasturtium; trees with fruit you don't want eaten

not really necessary unless you want to thin out; don't prune when producing sap

self-fertile, but bigger yield if you have 2

none of note; sometimes canker, powdery mildew, animals

get extra female tree

vine grows 3-6m per season; fruit grows on new shoots on last year's growth; requires certain number of chill hours, get appropriate low-chill cultivar

Dec 1; Jul 15

Jan 31; Jul 31

load soil with lots of compost when putting seedling in

can last 4-6 months frozen; up to 2 months refrigerated

full sun to partial shade

fertile, moist, and well-draining

need consistent watering; don't let soil dry out; also don't like wet feet

>15C (but require period of cold, around 7C at least a month); can tolerate up to 45C with additional watering

lots of organic matter and nitrogen; most important when vine is growing/getting established; feed upon planting in early spring, and in summer after flowers die off

passionfruit; grape; geranium; currants; lavender; marjoram; marigold; lemon balm; grapefruit; raspberries; catnip; blueberries; clematis

eggplant; peppers; potatoes; tomatoes

need strong framework like trellis; trim around main stem frequently (cutting off side branches) until tall enough to form canopy; prune any diseased/twisted laterals or ones that are rubbing on others; prune once in winter and a bit in summer for shape; can prune the male plants more than the female plants because they're only needed for their flowers

requires one male plant for every 4 female plants

root rot; fruit rot; crown gall; bleeding canker; leaf rollers; japanese beetles

for proper trellising: https://onegreenworld.com/growing-kiwis/

φρούτο του πάθους

vine grows 3-4m per season; fruit grows on new shoots; sounds like it can almost be invasive; roots are shallow but very extensive

add compost to planting hole

harvest either from vine or when they fall to the ground; ready when color is rich and even, skin has slight give, shape is plump; the wrinklier the skin, the sweeter; can store in fridge up to a month; preserve puree in ice cubes, as syrup, dehydrated slices

full sun to partial shade

fertile, moist, and well-draining

deep watering immediately after planting; after that one or two waterings per week throughout growing season; about 2.5 - 4cm water per week

lots of organic matter and nitrogen; most important when vine is growing/getting established; feed upon planting in early spring or before new growth emerges, then every 4-6 weeks until early autumn

potatoes; beets; roots

not necessary in summer, but can be done to keep size in check/remove deadwood/encourage more growth; plants flower on new growth, so pruning necessary before growth begins each spring, about 30cm

scale, spider mites, whiteflies, leaf spot, root rot

when rich in color, juicy, full-flavored, plump, easily crushed, tightly attached to stem; store for up to 6 weeks in cool location (but not fridge), eg cardboard box/crate lined with clean, dry straw

loamy, sandy clay, fertile, well-drained

regular watering, at least once per 10 days in hot weather

wind can damage shoots and leaves, impacting fruit quality

light fertilization only after first year

no, need warm soil

chives, clover, mustard, peas, blackberry, oregano, geranium

potato, radish, garlic

very important; to revive old vines: Pick a new trunk from the vanes that are growing at the base of the vine. Then, cut it back to the right height. Pick two canes on each side to bear fruit this year and tie them to your support system. If you don’t have any lateral canes, wit until next season with 2 new shoots.

downy mildew, powdery mildew, grey mold, anthracnose, black rot, crown gall

add some compost to mulch in March right before new growth sprouts