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AreaRoute #Route NameTypeBoltAnchorGradeNotes
Mountain Project
Climbio
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Guidebook+
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Updates, route conditions & new lines at Long Dong since printing of "Rock Climbing Taiwan" (2012)
Sources:
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View more details online: www.tinyurl.com/GBplus
Rock Climbing Taiwan Guidebook
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Chinese version available in tab below!
龍洞rebolt進度列表 - 龍洞rebolt計劃
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中文版本在下方【GB+(中文)】分頁內
2012-13龍洞Anchor Chain加裝-路線列表
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To contribute Long Dong safety info email
Debolt Project - Unsafe Bolts
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guidebookplus@gmail.com
Long Dong, Taiwan - Mountainproject.com
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"台灣龍洞攀岩Guide Book 一般意見記錄區 - 台攀"
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updated:04/2017Climbio - Long Dong
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Backdoor
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AreaRoute #Route NameTypeBoltAnchorGradeNotes
Mountain Project
Climbio
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BD1ㄅ - BoBoulder5.7
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BD2ㄆ - PoBoulder5.5
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BD3ㄇ - MoBoulder5.6
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BD4ㄈ - FoBoulder5.7
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BD5ㄉ - DoBoulder5.8
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BD6ㄊ - ToBoulder5.10b
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BD7草帽大嫂 - Grass Hat SisterTrad5.6
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BD8老龍勃魯斯
Elder Dragon Blues
Trad5.10a
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BD9南方岩角 - Southern AreteTrad5.8
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BD10簡單內角 - Easy DihedralTrad5.7
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BD11超越巔峰 - Into Thin AirTopropeNoneNone5.6Fully debolted 2014. Anchor can be walked to/off and made from trad gearMP
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BD12樓梯間 - Under the StaircaseTopropeNoneNone5.10cFully debolted 2014. Anchor can be walked to/off and made from trad gearMP
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BD13不要跌倒 - Watch Your StepTradNoneNone5.11aFully debolted 2014; same route as #14. Easy for the grade.
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BD14後門人 - Back Door ManTradNone5.10cMP
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BD15黑到爆 - Hell NightTopropeNone5.12d
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BD16RCCTopropeNone5.11dMP
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BD17蛋頭 - JeffTradNone5.11a
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BD18迴避 - SidestepTradNoneNone5.10aFully debolted 2014; can be trad climbedMP
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BD19另一個懸岩 - Another OverhangTradNone5.9MP
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BD20彈頭小裂隙 - Jeff's RP CrackTradNone5.10aMP
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BD21斜板 - Slab, EhTradNone5.6
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BD22觀浪 - Cresting WaveTradNone5.7
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BD23黏搭搭 - SlabbyTradNone5.9
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BD24斜板海 - Slab SeaTradNone5.8MP
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BD25斜板D - Slab DeeTradNone5.9
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BD26斷齒 - Flying TeethTradNone5.10bMP
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BD27熱水器 - Water Heater RouteTradNoneNone5.8Fully debolted 2014; can be trad climbed (maybe not the same line)MP
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BD28V字倒影 - Mirrored VeeBoulder5.9
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BD29裂隙面 - CrackfaceToprope5.9
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BD30內角五十五 - Dihedral Fifty-FiveBoulder5.5
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BD31鐮刀 - SickleToprope5.7
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BD32懸岩外角 - Hanging AreteToprope5.10b
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BD33開發中的抱石 - Boulder ProjectBoulder5.13a?
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BD34笑裡藏刀 - Two-FacedToprope5.11b
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BD35騙人的拳頭 - Cheating FistsTrad5.8
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BD36後門拳頭裂隙
Backdoor Fistcrack
Trad5.10d
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BD37岩面 - FaceToprope5.8
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BD38散步路線 - ScrambleToprope5.4
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BD39簡單路線 - LowdownToprope5.4
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BD40湖邊路線 - LakesideToprope5.5
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BD41龍柱 - Dragon PoleTrad5.9Dangerous fall potential from first move.MP
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BD42地下居民 - Cellar DwellerTrad5.10b
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BD43別撈過界 - Don't Cross The LineSport
Questionable
Questionable
Taiwan 316 bolts (2007)
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BD44地下室角落 - Basement CornerTradBad5.6The anchor is some very old slings. Gear at the crux is tenuous at best. Not recommended.MP
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BD45冤家宜解不宜結
Olive Branch
SportSolidSolid5.12aEntire route rebolted with titanium (11/2016). Fitted with RH (11/2016)
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BD46誰騙了誰? - Who fooled who?SportSolidSolid5.11aEntire route rebolted with titanium (11/2016). Fitted with RH (11/2016)MP
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BD47VitaSportSolidSolid5.11dEntire route rebolted with titanium (11/2016). Fitted with RH (11/2016)MP
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BD48Yum YumTrad5.11bAnchors rebolted with titanium (11/2016).
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BD49大家的福利
Everybody's Welfare
SportSolidSolid5.11aEntire route rebolted with titanium (11/2016). Fitted with RH (11/2016)MP
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BD50誰與爭鋒 - IncomparableSportSolidSolid5.13aBad bolt removed and rebolted Summer 2014. Anchors rebolted with titanium (11/2016).
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BD51笑傲江湖 - Xiao Ao Jiang HuSportSolidSolid5.12cRebolted 2013. soft 12c. Anchors rebolted with titanium (11/2016).1st, 2nd and last lead bolt rebolted with TI.
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BD52Happy EndingSport
Questionable
Questionable
5.13a/bTaiwan 316 bolts (2007), FA'd by Alex Honnold in 10/2013: http://westietsai007.pixnet.net/blog/post/163390706 "有身高限制但其實沒那麼難 It's pretty height dependent but not crazy hard"
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BD53倩女驚魂 - Phantom FrightTradQuestionable5.10bTop out not recommended, descend via High Class Quickdraw anchorMP
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BD54高檔快扣
High Class Quckdraw
Sport
Questionable
5.10dTaiwan 316 bolts (2007)MP
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BD55饅頭 - MantelSportSolidSolid5.12b2 sketchy bolts rebolted 2014. One Ti anchor bolt added (11/2016).
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BD56扭來扭去 - TwistingSport
Questionable
5.12aTaiwan 316 bolts (2007). Sketchy bolt replaced 2014. One Ti anchor bolt added (11/2016).MP
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BD57好人阿郎 - Good Guy A-LangSport
Questionable
Questionable
5.11cTaiwan 316 bolts (2007). Stick clip recommended for the start.MP
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BD58一步難 - One Tough MoveSport
Questionable
Questionable
5.12aTaiwan 316 bolts (2007)
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BD59赤頭 - RedheadSport
Questionable
Questionable
5.11aTaiwan 316 bolts (2007). Soft 11a.MP
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BD60教練示範
Coach Demonstrates
Sport
Questionable
Questionable
5.12bTaiwan 316 bolts (2007)MP
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BD61落大石 - Big Rock FallingSport
Questionable
Questionable
5.12aTaiwan 316 bolts (2007)MP
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BD62火龍 - Dragon with MatchesTradBad5.10bAnchors are Petzl 304 (2008), unreliableMP
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BD63哈雷 - Harley-DavidsonSport
Questionable
Questionable
5.10dTaiwan 316 bolts (2007). Tough start for shorties, harder than 10d.MP
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BD64機車 - MotorcycleSport
Questionable
Questionable
5.12cTaiwan 316 bolts (2007). One 316SS bolt added (2013).MP
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BD65新法拉利 - New FerrariSport
Questionable
Questionable
5.11cTaiwan 316 bolts (2007). Solid 11d.MPClimbio
See Climbio Link
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BD*Security BlanketTradQuestionable5.10cA good line that's not in the guidebook. Follow the obvious crack right of New FerrariMP
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BD66就是5點13
Just Five-Thirteen
Sport
Questionable
5.10bTaiwan 316 bolts (2007)MP
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BD67牛仔外角 - Cowboy AreteSportBadBad5.10aThe entire upper wall has collapsed, making this route impossible to climbMP
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BD68牛仔小丑 - Rodeo ClownTradBad5.10aAnchors are Petzl 304 (2008), unreliableMP
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BD69迷之鎮 - Loose on the TownTrad5.9Anchors are Petzl 304 (2008), unreliable
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BD70橫行霸道 - CrabwalkSportBadBad5.11dThe entire upper wall has collapsed, making this route impossible to climb
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BD71小翔三連敗
Hsiao Shiang's Third Strike
SportBadBad5.12bThe entire upper wall has collapsed, making this route impossible to climb
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BD72橫渡地下室
Basement Traverse
Boulder5.10c
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BD73寄居蟹 - Hermit CrabSport
Questionable
Questionable
5.9Taiwan 316 bolts (2007)MP
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BD74寄居蟹二 - Hermit Crab P2Sport
Questionable
Questionable
5.9Taiwan 316 bolts (2007)MP
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BD75應該是 - Hey Hey HeySport
Questionable
Questionable
5.11cTaiwan 316 bolts (2007)
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BD76獅子后 - Lion QueenSport
Questionable
Questionable
5.10cTaiwan 316 bolts (2007). Big block right before the anchors has been epoxied but is still loose.MP
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BD77獅子后二 - Lion Queen P2Sport
Questionable
Questionable
5.7Taiwan 316 bolts (2007)
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BD78熔岩孔 - Lava TubeSport
Questionable
Questionable
5.10dTaiwan 316 bolts (2007). Very difficult clips through the crux. MP
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BD79鳥巢 - Bird's NestSport
Questionable
Questionable
5.10dTaiwan 316 bolts (2007). Listed as 81 on page 40 of guidebook. Feels like 10c.
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BD80Eagle's AreteSport
Questionable
Questionable
5.10bTaiwan 316 bolts (2007)
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BD81正上 - Straight UpSport
Questionable
Questionable
5.11cTaiwan 316 bolts (2007). Listed as 82 on page 40 of guidebook
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BD82矮子兩步遠 - Napoleon's ReachSport
Questionable
Questionable
5.12bTaiwan 316 bolts (2007). Listed as 83 on page 40 of guidebook
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BD83高個伸手抓 - Taller ReachSport
Questionable
Questionable
5.12cTaiwan 316 bolts (2007). Route 83/84 are not drawn properly - look at the bolts on the wall instead.
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BD84鷹扣 - Eagle UnderclingSport
Questionable
Questionable
5.12cTaiwan 316 bolts (2007). Route 83/84 are not drawn properly - look at the bolts on the wall instead.
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