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Shirt Measurement Log v3 — protocol and legend
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LEGEND: yellow cells are yours to fill in. Black text = formulas. Blue = your inputs. Row 4 = worked EXAMPLE (Printstar); row 5 = your Samurai data.
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PROTOCOL
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1. Condition: same room; weigh in one session; after washes, fully dry + one day rest.
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2. Weigh whole shirt, 0.1 g scale, grams.
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3. Flat cm, Japanese convention: 身幅 chest armpit-to-armpit, 着丈 length from back collar seam, 肩幅 shoulder, 袖丈 sleeve from shoulder seam, + sleeve width. Photograph tape in place.
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4. Wash regimen never varies: cold, gentle, hang dry. Re-measure after washes 1, 3, 5.
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5. Skew (wash 5): mm the side/sleeve seam has rotated from vertical at the hem.
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CLAIMS DOCTRINE
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Claimed oz/yd2 is ONLY for true square-yard-basis claims (US blanks convention). Heavyweight 'denim register' numbers (16oz etc.) go in Nominal claim as text — nothing to convert.
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Yarn count brackets plausibility; it does not calculate weight (gauge co-determines). Band = typical single-jersey range at conventional gauges. Measured GSM is always the number of record.
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Resultant Ne: plied 40/2 enters as Ne 40, Ply 2 -> behaves like Ne 20. Band table: Ne8 340-400 · Ne10 300-360 · Ne12 270-320 · Ne16 230-280 · Ne20 180-230 · Ne24 160-200 · Ne30 140-170 · Ne40 110-140. Intermediates snap to the band below.
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SIZE-CHART DOCTRINE
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Enter the brand's published chart values for the size purchased. Compare against NEW measurements — charts describe unwashed garments. Exception: if a product page charts post-wash (one-wash / 洗濯後), note it in Notes; the comparison basis changes.
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Cutting tolerance on knits is ~±1–1.5 cm per flat measurement: within ±1.5 cm = chart-accurate (a positive finding, publish it). Beyond = runs small/large at that dimension. Deltas are measured − claimed: positive = garment bigger than chart.
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Brands differ slightly in where they measure (house offset); your method is consistent, so cross-brand PATTERNS remain valid even if absolute deltas carry an offset. Verdict evaluates only dimensions you entered.
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FORMULAS
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Claimed GSM = oz/yd2 × 33.9 · Area m2 = (2·chest·length + 4·sleeveL·sleeveW)/10000 (±10%, consistent so rankings hold) · Est GSM = weight/area · Shrinkage % = (new − wash5)/new · Chart Δ = measured(new) − claimed.
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