3D printed Chevrolet K5 Blazer Baja edition(v1.0)
Step by step assembly instructions
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Hi guys! I have strange statistics. Only 10-20% of people share photos of the process of building a model and the finished model. This is very bad!
The development of these projects takes hundreds of hours of time... For example, I spent approximately 800 working hours on all Hummer/Humvee projects. The Chevrolet projects took a total of 700+ hours.
Since there is not much activity around my projects right now, I cannot afford to develop large projects lasting 300-600 working hours. Therefore, now I am forced to look for ideas for faster projects. For example, both versions of skid steer loaders took me approximately 150 working hours, a mini excavator - 170 hours. Yes, these are also interesting projects, but I could create something cooler and more epic! For example, now, (Spoiler!) I have in development one project of a military vehicle with a bunch of interesting features. For example, the length of this model will be approximately 91cm . It's about 65-70% complete, but I'm in no rush to finish it because I believe that my community is not large enough for such projects right now..
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Thank you in advance!
~615mm
~318mm
~240mm
~240mm
- Images show model with 100mm tires. If you are using different tire sizes, the ground clearance and height of the model may be different.
- The rims of the model in the image have an offset of + 5mm. If you use other rims, the width and track of the model may be different.
~198mm
Before you start
Screws and nuts for body:
Screws and nuts for wheels:
Other:
Fastening materials
Non 3d-printed parts
Shock Absorbers
20mm
Non 3d-printed parts
Shock Absorbers
20mm
(If links do not work, just find same parts as on image, from another seller)
(I purchased winch like on picture, and I am not satisfied how it works! Recommended to purchase only like decorative element.)
Non 3d-printed parts
Optional parts
(If links do not work, just find same parts as on image, from another seller)
(You need almost all parts that you see on image. Don't buy set with only gears!)
Chapter 1: Chassis assembling
Step 1: Chassis frame assembling
Frame front parts assembling
After inserting the nuts, it is recommended to glue them or solder them with a soldering iron.
M3 nuts
M3x16
Radiator support frame bracket L
Frame FL
Frame FR
Frame Cross connector 1
Tip: Here and in the future, for the holes into which you will screw M3 screws, calibrate the holes with a 2.5mm drill! And also for the holes into which you will tighten the M2 screws, calibrate them with a 1.5mm drill!
Frame central parts assembling and attaching to the front parts
M3x16
M3x16
with washers
(recommended, but optional)
It is recommended to use washers for frame joints if you are using socket head cap screws. For spherical head screws, this is optional!
M3x10
M3x20
Frame Cross connector 2
Frame CL
Frame CR
Transfer case subframe
Frame rear parts assembling
M3x16
M3x12
M3x12
M3x25
M3 nuts
M3x16
Frame RR
Frame RL
Frame Cross connector 3
Frame Cross connector 4
Rear Shock absorbers bracket
Frame rear parts attaching to the central parts
M3x10
Wheelhouse front right
M3x25
M3x16
M3x12
Wheelhouse FR frame part
Wheelhouse front left
5pcs M3x16
M3x12
M3x25
Wheelhouse FL frame part
Trackbar frame bracket
Running boards
M3x10-12
Running board R
Running board L
Step 2: Front axle assembling
Suspension links
5pcs x
140mm
78mm
77mm
1pcs x
1pcs x
For steering link, the ball joints must be rotated 90 degrees relative to each other!
129mm
1pcs x
Before starting the assembly of the axles, it is recommended to prepare the suspension rods. You need 17 ball joints for M4 Screw, 1pcs - M4 threaded shaft 122mm long, 5pcs - M4 threaded shaft 111mm long and 2pcs - M4 threaded shafts 60mm long. To adjust the length of the suspension rods, you can use the 3D printed part from the "Helpers" folder!
Front axle assembling
M3 nuts
M3x20
5x10x4mm bearings
Axle housing internal(front axle)
Front axle assembling
M3x12
5x10x4mm bearings
10x15x4mm bearings
Axle housing external(front axle)
Front axle assembling
M3x8
M2x6
M3x5
(There is a hole in the axle cover for adding grease using a syringe. But this is optional. If you want to use this hole, then you need to drill it with a 2.5mm drill bit and screw a m3x5 screw into it.)
Do not confuse the location of the left and right parts! The knuckle joint must be tilted towards the center of the model!
Axle Cap
Front Axle tube U-end right
Front Axle tube U-end left
Front axle assembling
5x10x4mm bearings
10x15x4mm bearings
M3x12
M3x12
M3 washers
M3x16
Steering Knuckle Left
Servo bracket
Front axle assembling
M3x25
M3x20
M3x12 with washers
M3x5 with washer
M3x16 with 2 washers and nut.
Perhaps you will need to use 1-3 washers so that the parts do not touch each other when moving!
Front axle assembling
M3x20
Front axle assembling
M3x20
M3x16
M3x16
Step 3: Rear axle assembling
Rear axle assembling
M3x20
5x10x4mm bearings
M3 nuts
Axle housing internal(rear axle)
Rear axle assembling
10x15x4mm bearings
M3x12
Axle housing external(rear axle)
Rear axle assembling
5x10x4mm bearings
M3x16
M3x8
M2x6
M3x5
(There is a hole in the axle cover for adding grease using a syringe. But this is optional. If you want to use this hole, then you need to drill it with a 2.5mm drill bit and screw a m3x5 screw into it.)
Axle rear bracket
Axle rear tube end
The larger element must be turned towards the inside of the model!
Rear axle assembling
M4x20
M3x20
M3x16
It is recommended to use a washer between the shock absorber and the plastic part
Suspension A-link
Step 4: Attaching axles to the frame
Attaching axles to the frame
M3 nuts
It is recommended to use a thread lock to avoid loosening the nuts!
Attaching axles to the frame
M3x25
Use washers between moving parts!
It is recommended to add a little grease to the inside of the hole!
Attaching axles to the frame
M3x20
Attaching axles to the frame
M3 nuts
Step 5: Transmission assembling and installation
Transmission assembling
5x10x4mm bearings
5x10x4mm bearings
The transmission has two points for greasing with a syringe! If you want to use them in the future, you need to drill a hole with a 2.5mm drill bit and screw an M3x5 screw into it!
Gearbox Body 2
Transmission assembling
8x16x5mm bearings
M3x20 with washers
Gearbox Body 3
Transmission assembling
5x10x4mm bearings
M4 lock nut
Don't forget the brass spacer and pin!
Don't forget the green circle from gears set!
Transmission assembling
M3x20 with washers
M3x16 with washers
Gearbox Body 1
Transmission assembling
M3x8 with washers
M3x12 with washer
M2x6
Gearbox cap
Transmission assembling
M3x5
The screws cover holes that you can use to add grease with a syringe. The hole is not through, if you want to use it, then drill it with a 2.5mm drill bit!
Transmission and exhaust pipe installation
M3x20 with washers
M2x6
The front parts of the exhaust system must be installed at the same time as the transmission! The rear parts of the exhaust system can be fitted now or later.
Transfer case installation
M3x12
Drive shafts installation
92-125mm adjustable drive shaft
110-155mm adjustable drive shaft
You can make the drive shaft between the transmission and the transfer case from two universal joints and a 5x30mm metal shaft!
Wheels assembling
M2x8
Rim A outer
Rim spacer circle
Rim A inner
M2 nuts
Wheels installation
M4 lock nuts
Shock absorber covers
M2x6
The left and right parts look the same, but they are a little different! There is a small dot on the side that should face the inside of the car!
Shock absorber cover FL
Step 6: Front and rear bumpers assembling and installation
Front bumper types
You can build a front bumper in one of three modifications!�(Tube cage and headlights same for all bumper types)
Front bumper with 3d printed towing rings
M2x6
M2x6
M3x12
Bumper brackets are different for the version with and without a winch! Don't confuse them!
The bumper bracket has a small dot on the side that must face the bumper!
Bumper front main part
(no winch, 3d printed towing rings)
Bumper front towing yoke base
Bumper towing yoke
Bumper front bracket R
(baja, no winch bumper)
Front bumper with metal towing rings
M2x6
Bumper brackets are different for the version with and without a winch! Don't confuse them!
M3x12
The bumper bracket has a small dot on the side that must face the bumper!
Bumper front main part
(no winch, metal towing rings)
Bumper front bracket R
(baja, no winch bumper)
Front bumper with metal towing rings and winch
M2x6
M2x6
M3x12
Bumper brackets are different for the version with and without a winch! Don't confuse them!
First you must install the metal plate from the set with the winch, then you must screw the winch to it!
M2x6
The bumper bracket has a small dot on the side that must face the bumper!
Bumper front main part
(no winch, 3d printed towing rings)
Bumper front bracket L
(baja, winch bumper)
Front bumper installation
M3x12
Rear bumper assembling
M2x8
M3x20 and 2 washers
Use filament pieces to make the connection of the parts. After placing the filament sections, solder the ends with a soldering iron!
Bumper rear basket
Spare tire carrier
Bumper box body
Bumper box cap
Bumper rear diagonal strut
Rear bumper assembling
M2x6
M4x30mm threaded shaft + M4 lock nut
You can assemble the rear bumper with the main body to install 3D printed tow rings or metal ones.
Bumper towing yoke base
Bumper towing yoke
Rear bumper installation
M2x8
M3x12
Chassis assembling finished!
Chapter 2: Body assembling
Step 7: Cargo area assembling
Cargo area floor and wheelhouses assembling
M2x6
M2x8
Wheelhouse RL
Cargo area floor L
Rear shock absorbers cover L
Cargo area floor and wheelhouses assembling
M2x6
Drill a hole with a 2mm drill bit
Cargo area floor end
Battery box
Cargo area floor and wheelhouses assembling
M2x6
Drill a hole with a 2mm drill bit
Drill a hole with a 3mm drill bit
At this stage, it is recommended to glue all the parts or solder them with a soldering iron! This will make cargo area parts more solid.
Cargo area floor extender
Cargo area floor extender connection
Step 8: Assembly of the main part of the cab and connection to the cargo area
Cab basic parts post-processing
Drill a hole with a 3mm drill bit
Drill a hole with a 1.5mm drill bit
Drill a hole with a 2mm drill bit
Cab basic parts assembling
M2x6
M2x10
M3x12
M3x12
M2x6
M3x8
Cab basic part R
Cab basic part L
Tunnel
Wire holders for securing wires from the speed controller and servo cable extension. More information on the next slides.
An example of fastening the wires from the speed controller and servo
Here I used a 15cm servo extension cable
You can solder longer wires for the speed controller or make 10cm extension cords!
It is recommended to place the radio under the right seat and the speed controller under the left. I used a Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 RPM controller, There is also enough space under the seat to place a Hobbywing Quicrun 860 RPM controller.
An example of fastening the wires from the speed controller and servo
These connectors will help you quickly disconnect electric motor and servo when you need to remove the body from the chassis.
Cab basic parts assembling
M2x10
M3x12
M3x8(with socket head)
Cab cross connector
Cab basic parts assembling
M2x8
Glue or solder the hooks to hold the wires.
It is also recommended to glue or solder the door sill with a soldering iron after installation.
Door sill L
Cab basic parts assembling
M2x6
At this stage, it is recommended to glue all the parts or solder them with a soldering iron! This will make the base of the cab more solid.
The boxes should be turned with indentations towards the inside of the model.
The right box has a slot for the servo cable extension. Do not mix up the boxes!
Box under seat L
Box under seat R
Shelf behind the dashboard L
Shelf behind the dashboard R
Cab basic parts assembling
M2x6
M2x6
(The hole is closed here to optimize printing. You need to drill it with a 2mm drill bit. The drilling location is marked on the bottom side of the tunnel!)
Pedal unit
Door bracket pt1
Transmission shifter
Cargo area attaching
M2x10
Windshield frame pre-assembling
You can make a joint using a 10mm length of filament and solder the ends.
You can polish the ball with sandpaper to make it easier to install!
Glue the rearview mirror
Wiper
Wiper base
Wiper ball pin
Windshield frame
Windshield frame installation
M2x10
M3x12
M3x12
Dashboard post-processing
Drill a hole with a 1.5mm drill bit
Remove the built-in support colored red!
Dashboard
Dashboard assembling
M2x8
(It will be better if you use a socket head screw here. This will allow you to open the door with a hex key!)
Glove box door
Glove box door locker
Use a piece of filament to create a connection. Insert the filament into the hole and solder the end with a soldering iron.
Dashboard assembling
M3x10mm threaded shaft
(This is a hidden connection! Rotate the steering wheel around dashboard to tighten the threaded shaft.)
Dashboard turn signal handle
Dashboard handle end
This element made from paper clip
Steering wheel
Dashboard installation
M2x10
M2x8
Hood hinges installation
M2x10
The hood hinge must be installed before installing the fender!
Hood hinge L
Step 9: Assembly of the front end and connection to the main body
M2x6
Radiator support post-processing and pre-assembling
Drill a hole with a 2mm drill bit
Drill a hole with a 2.5mm drill bit
Drill a holes with a 2mm drill bit
This part must be glued or soldered with a soldering iron after installation!
Radiator support
Radiator support bracket
Front wheelhouses attaching
M3x10
Wheelhouse FL fender part
Wheelhouse FR fender part
Attaching front-end parts to the main body
M2x6
Front fender post-processing
You need to glue or solder with a soldering iron these 3 hooks to hold the wires.
It is also recommended to install LEDs and solder wires to them. Later, after installing the fender on the model, access to this place will be blocked by other parts.
Fender FL
Front fender installation
M2x8
M2x8
Front fender installation
M2x8
M2x10
Step 10: Tube cage assembly and installation
Tube cage assembling
M3x10mm threaded shaft
(This is a hidden connection! Rotate the tube around each other to tighten the threaded shaft.)
M2x10
Cage bottom tubes
Cage side tube 90deg L
Cage cross tube 90deg
Tube cage assembling
M2x10
M3x10mm threaded shaft
(This is a hidden connection! rotate the tube around each other to tighten the threaded shaft.)
This handle must be glued or soldered with a soldering iron after installation!
Cage top tubes
Cage handle
Cage tube vertical FL
Tube cage assembling
M2x10
M2x10
This part must be glued or soldered with a soldering iron after installation!
Cage main cross tube
Cage rear seat tubes
Cage side tube RL
Cage side rear connection tube
Tube cage assembling
M2x10
M2x8
Tube cage assembling
M2x6
After completing the assembly, it is recommended to glue the connections or solder them with a soldering iron. This will turn the cage into one solid piece and make it more durable.
Install the mounting plates. If they don't fit tight enough, you can glue them on or solder them with a soldering iron.
Shifter board between seats
Tube cage installation
M3x10mm threaded shaft
(This is a hidden connection! Rotate the tube around the windshield part to tighten the threaded shaft.)
Cage windshield connection tube
Tube cage installation
M2x10
Tube cage installation
You can print these panels without top and bottom layers.
Panel under seat L
Tube cage installation
M2x10
M3x12
M2x8
(Here and elsewhere, M2x8 screws are used to attach the tube cage to the body, unless another size is indicated.)
Step 11: Final assembly of the body and installation on the chassis
Rear fender post processing
You can calibrate the hole diameter with a 5mm drill.
You need to glue or solder with a soldering iron these 4 hooks to hold the wires.
Fender RL
Rear fender installation
M3x16
M2x10
M2x8
Rear fender installation
M3x16
M2x8
Seats installation
M2x8
M2x6
To fit the front seats you need to use 50-60 mm filament pieces. You can easily remove them later for quick access to the electronics located under the seats.
You can make a joint using a 15mm length of filament and solder the ends.
Don't forget about 3x3x3mm magnets!
Seat rear bracket
Tube doors installation
M2x10
M2x6
Door tube C-hook
Door tube cage L
Tube doors installation
M2x6
Door tube side panel L
Tailgate installation
M2x8
M2x8
Tailgate
Tailgate bracket pt2
Tailgate bracket pt1
Tailgate installation
M2x8
Don't forget about 3x3x3mm magnets!
Hood installation
M2x6
Hood
Hood installation
M2x6
M2x8
You can make a joint using a 5mm length of filament and solder the ends.
Hood hinge assist pt1
Hood hinge assist pt2 R
Front grill pre-assembling and installation
M2x6
Put the headlights in the grille. If they don't fit tight enough, you can glue them on or solder them with a soldering iron.
Grill
Headlight lamp body
Installing the body on the chassis
M3x12
Installing the body on the chassis
M3x12 with washer
Finish
Congratulations!
You have successfully completed the model assembly!
Add radio controls and battery, and you're ready to ride!
I hope you enjoy this model and leave a good review about it!
To forward / backward
channel
To AUX mode channel
To Headlights mode channel
100K
1K
100K
1K
100K
1K
To Steering channel
100K
1K
100K
1K
100K
1K
100R
100R
100R
100R
100R
100R
100R
Tail Lamp Right. 5mm LEDs�White Red Red
Tail Lamp Left. 5mm LEDs�Red Red White
Grille Top
and Bottom
LEDs
5mm White
It is recommended to install a switch on the power cable so that you can turn off the light module.
100R
100R
100R
Reverse
Headlights Top
Tail Light Red
Turn Left
AUX1
AUX2
100R
100R
AUX2 channel�1-15pcs LEDs 3 or 5mm
…
100R
100R
AUX1 channel�1-15pcs LEDs 3 or 5mm
…
100K
1K
100K
1K
Headlights Bottom
Turn Right
100R
100R
100R
100R
100R
100R
100R
100R
You will find the code for Arduino Micro in the archive with the model files!
Module working demo video you can see here.
3mm Orange LEDs
in front grille and fender
Light module making recommendations
Prototyping board 7x25 holes
1pcs - 5pin and 4pcs - 4 pin female connectors
2 pairs of 12 pin male
and female connectors
8pcs - Transistor BS170
8pcs - 1K and 100K resistors
Arduino Pro Micro
(3-15 volts version )
Prepare parts for making a light module as shown below.
Light module making recommendations
Solder 12 pin connectors to Arduino and prototyping board as shown below.
Solder BS170 transistor and 1K and 100K resistor as shown below.
1K 100K
Light module making recommendations
Repeat adding Transistor and resistors 7 times.�(P.S. It should be 8 transistors, but on that moment I mistakenly think that I need 7. I will add info about 8th transistor later.)
Light module making recommendations
Light module making recommendations
Forgotten 8th transistor and resistors, that I told before.
Light module making recommendations
Light module making recommendations
Servo cable extender with cutted female side, length 330-350mm.
Thin 3-core cable with soldered female connectors, length same to servo cable.
Light module making recommendations
- RX1 pin
- 2 pin
- 3 pin
TX0 pin -
+
-
Use a servo cable Y-connetors to connect a Light module, parallel to Forward/ Backward and Steering channels
Connecting signal wires to receiver:
- from TX0 to Forward/Backward channel
- from RX1 to AUX mode channel
- from 2 pin to Headlights mode channel
- from 3 pin to Steering channel
Light module making recommendations
+, Turn Left, Turn Right, Headlights Top, Headlights Bottom (Connector for LEDs in front grille)
+, Turn Left, Tail Light Red, Reverse (Connector for LEDs in rear left fender)
+, Turn Right, Tail Light Red, Reverse (Connector for LEDs in rear right fender)
+, Turn Left, +, Turn Right (Connectors for LEDs in front fenders)
+, -, +, - (Connectors for AUX channels LEDs, For example Light bar and Bull bar with extra LEDs)
100R
100R
100R
100R
100R
100R
100R
100R
Headlights Bottom
Headlights Top
Turn Right
Turn Left
+
-
Light module making recommendations
100R
100R
100R
+
Turn signal
Tail light
Reverse
Rear fenders wiring diagram
For front fenders and AUX channels, just connect LEDs in parallel connection. 2pcs LEDs for fenders and 4-5 for Bull bar with extra LEDs and a Light bar.
100R
100R
…
+
Light module making recommendations
Light module making recommendations