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Graphic: Elwha Coming Home

Slide Show Outline

Elwha Coming Home

Theme: Restoring the Elwha River watershed and renewing the cycle of salmon entwines ecosystems, communities and livelihoods together.

Introductory Slide Sequence

II. Elwha Overview

III. Strand One: Traditions

1. Klallam Tribes and the Lower Elwha Klallam people

2. Traditions, homesteaders, and American influence

IV. Strand Two: Livelihoods

1. Salmon

2. Water, energy, and 20th Century industrialism (Elwha dam history)

3. Wilderness and the human spirit

V. Strand Three: Ecosystems

1. Web of life

2. Salmon-derived nutrients

3. Research and science

4. Education

VI. River Restoration

1. History of dam removal process

2. Sediments

3. Port Angeles water treatment

4. Dam removal process

a) Elwha

b) Glines

5. Revegetation

6. Fisheries restoration

VII. Conclusion slide sequence

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Strand I:

Traditions

Strand II:

Livelihoods

Strand III:

Ecosystem

Part IV: River Restoration

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Elwha Dam

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Glines Canyon Dam

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Traditions

Strand I

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"Children were taught to live a clean life. Their first journey and visit to the Creation Site was a rite of passage for them. There were separate rites and separate places where the young women and the young men would go. They would fast, pray and cleanse themselves with cedar, and then they would go to the Creation Site..."

Adeline Smith on the Elwha Creation

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“We went and got alder bows. These were interwoven with the remains and the heads, all the bones, etc....The first one was released in the mouth area. The head was so big that it looked like it was going to sink, but it came up and floated down river."

Rachel Hagemann on the First Salmon Ceremony

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Livelihoods

Strand II

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“The salmon and trout species of the Elwha divided the river’s habitat up both in time and space. Fish were found in the river throughout the year, with each species having a unique run-timing, and using a distinct section of the river.”

Pat Crain, Olympic National Park, Fisheries Biologist

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“Below the cabin was a canyon through which the Elwha River thundered and 75 feet or so in front of it was a spring of crystal clear water, overhung by vine maples. It was from this spring I made such delicious bean soup! The scintillating rays of sun were coming through the branches and sparkling on the water. My life had taken me to schools, to cities, to businesses, but suddenly that spring embodies all of life and beauty I thought I’d ever want..”

Thomas Aldwell, Conquering the Last Frontier

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Script: The view from Aldwell’s cabin along the Elwha River, near the location of the Elwha Dam site, inspired not only his vision for Port Angeles’ economic development, but also his love of nature.

Photo: Vineleaf maple

Full Script:

The view from Aldwell’s cabin along the Elwha River, near the location of the Elwha Dam site, inspired not only his vision for Port Angeles’ economic development, but also his love of nature. Along that reach of river he discovered the beauty of the natural world.

“Below the cabin was a canyon through which the Elwha River thundered and 75 feet or so in front of it was a spring of crystal clear water, overhung by vine maples. It was from this spring I made such delicious bean soup! The scintillating rays of sun were coming through the branches and sparkling on the water. My life had taken me to schools, to cities, to businesses, but suddenly that spring embodies all of life and beauty I thought I’d ever want..”

Thomas Aldwell’s regard for the beauty and power of the Elwha River paved the way for him to put the river to use for the City of Port Angeles.

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Script: However, built upon loose river sediments, the gravity dam failed in 1912. But this did not stop Aldwell’s vision for the future. The dam was soon reinforced and starting in 1913 it provided power to pulp mills in Port Angeles.

Thomas Aldwell later wrote in his autobiography “The Elwha was no longer a wild stream crashing down to the Strait; the Elwha was peace and power and civilization.”

Photo: Elwha (Olympic) Power Plant after break.

More Details:

The weight of the water from the 267-acre Lake Aldwell behind the dam blew out the river sediments below, leaving the dam in need of significant redesign and rebuilding. But this did not stop Aldwell’s vision for the future. The dam was soon reinforced and since 1913 it has provided power to pulp mills in Port Angeles.

Thomas Aldwell later wrote in his autobiography “The Elwha was no longer a wild stream crashing down to the Strait; the Elwha was peace and power and civilization.”

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Script: This is a view of the intake and future Lake Mills from next to the dam.

Photo: Lake Mills fills during dam construction

Official script:

Grant Humes, an Elwha homesteader, visited Glines Canyon before the dam’s construction. When the lake began to fill, he wrote a letter to his brother Will.

"Dear Brother Will: I have taken a half-holiday since 12 o’clock, and been down in the storage basin area of the new dam, looking for landmarks of past years that are soon to disappear from view, forever.... Going on down to Seig trail to the great clearing overlooking 2 miles of bottom, it was at once evident that the old Elwha is in tethers. The water is backing up rather rapidly. ...of all of Wolff’s buildings that stood when I first came on the scene, nothing is left to tell the tale except two grasssed-over mounds of rock once serving as fireplaces, and within a week these will also be gone from view, even as Wolff himself, the builder, has passed form our ken...."

"I was sad today as I recalled the past, realizing that the changed conditions have made impossible a repetition in kind. I heard 3 or 4 hooters and one sounded pretty close by. I sought him out and with my ‘game-getter’ brought him to the earth. You know we pronounced them a delicacy. A tough old hooter - we know now - to be any thing but a delicacy. Verily tastes change with the times and the years."

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Script: Now electrical power is much more abundant. Although the Elwha River will always be different, we had the special opportunity to restore the fish runs and the ecology that afforded the former people of the Elwha such delight and promise. The pulp mills of Port Angeles that were given their beginning through the power provided by the Elwha River had the electricity they needed. Electricity was set aside and guaranteed by the Bonneville Power Administration. The livelihoods of those who depended on the electricity powered by the Elwha are not impacted by the removal of two dams from the grid.

Photo: Pulp mill in Port Angeles

Official Script.

Tastes do change with the times. Now electrical power is more abundant than in Humes’ day and his “repetition in kind” may be possible. Although the Elwha River will always be different, we have the special opportunity to restore the fish runs and the ecology that afforded the former people of the Elwha such delight and promise. The pulp mills of Port Angeles that were given their beginning through the power provided by the Elwha River will have the electricity they need. Electricity has been set aside and guaranteed by the Bonneville Power Administration. The livelihoods of those who depend on the electricity powered by the Elwha should not be impacted by the removal of two dams from the grid.

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Ecosystems

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“The Elwha's instream habitat is naturally complex, The river will hold the carcasses long enough for them to break down into nutrients, such as carbon, nitrogen, and phosphorus. These nutrients feed the smaller organisms, which will eventually feed other salmon."

Mark Munn, USGS Research Biologist

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Anadromous Fish�Pre-Dam

70 miles habitat

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Anadromous Fish�Post-Dam

4,000 returns

5 miles habitat

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Animation: Salmon-derived nutrients

Script: undefined

Notes: This five-part animation demonstrates the relationship between salmon, their carcasses, and the energy they provide (and release) during and after a spawning period. To advance through the stages click in the middle of the screen. To exit this animation at anytime, press the right arrow or click the bottom of the screen.

To emphasize the significance of anadromous salmonids, some scientists use the term “salmon-derived” nutrients when referring to nutrients brought initially into the inland ecosystem from the marine environment by salmon. (Gende 2002 article cited below) For this section we also are employing that term.

Part A: The first part sets the stage and differentiates salmon-produced recycled products with directly consumed products. On the left side, recycled products are listed, those products that are released directly into the environment from waste products, decomposition, and weathering. The right side of the animation lists those products that are directly consumed by animals. Click the middle of the screen to continue to Part B.

Part B: Stage 1 - Early-Spawning Period - This part shows what types of products are released by salmon during the early-spawning period. Notice the blue bar graph on the Consumed Products side. All of the bar graphs read 100%. The abundant living fish at this time account for the high levels of lipids, protein, energy, and micro nutrients that are available. Click the middle of the screen to continue.

Part C: Stage 2 - Mid-Spawning Period - Notice that the fish is visually represented as partially consumed. As the spawning period continues, the addition of dead fish changes the relationship between consumed and recycled products. How are these changes affecting the food web?. Click the middle of the screen to continue.

Part D: Stage 3 - Late-Spawning Period - Salmon carcasses are now more abundant than living fish. Click the middle of the screen to continue.

Part E: Stage 4 - Post Spawning Period - How has the food web has changed during this period? Where have the large carnivores gone? What species are now taking advantage of the salmon-derived nutrients? Click anywhere to continue to the next slide.

Reference: Gende, Scott M., et al. Pacific Salmon in Aquatic and Terrestrial Ecosystems. BioScience. Vol. 5, No. 10. October 2002.

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Total Numbers of Rainbow Trout to Bull Trout, August, 2007

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River Restoration

Part IV

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1913 – Elwha Dam operational�1927 – Glines Canyon Dam operational�1968 – Elwha license application filed�1973 – Glines relicense application filed�1992 – Public Law 102-495 signed “Elwha Act”�1994 – The Elwha Report submitted to Congress�1996 – Environmental Impact Study (EIS) process completed�2000 – Federal acquisition of dams completed�2005 – Supplemental EIS process completed

History of Elwha Dams and Restoration Project

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1913 – Elwha Dam operational�1927 – Glines Canyon Dam operational�1968 – Elwha license application filed�1973 – Glines relicense application filed�1992 – Public Law 102-495 signed “Elwha Act”�1994 – The Elwha Report submitted to Congress�1996 – Environmental Impact Study (EIS) process completed�2000 – Federal acquisition of dams completed�2005 – Supplemental EIS process completed�2008 – Water Treatment Facilities Construction Begins�2010 – Water Treatment Facilities Operational �2011 –Dam Removal Starts�Restoration Begins!

History of Elwha Dams and Restoration Project

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“…the full restoration of the Elwha River ecosystem and native anadromous fisheries…”

The Elwha River Ecosystem and Fisheries Restoration Act

Public Law 102-495

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EIS Technical Working Groups

Dam Removal (Bureau of Reclamation)
Sediment Management (BuRec)
Water Quality (BuRec)
Fisheries (National Park Service)
Wildlife (US Fish and Wildlife Service)
Sensitive Species (USFWS)
Vegetation (USFWS)
Marine Resources (USFWS)
Cultural Resources (NPS)
Socioeconomics (Lower Elwha Klallam Tribe)
Flooding (Army Corps of Engineers)

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Script: Successful fish recolonization of the Elwha River is heavily intertwined with dam removal and sediment impacts.

Fish hatcheries acted as clean water refuges during the dam removal process, and hatcheries were also sources of brood for outplanting in the years after dam removal. Outplanting means releasing hatchery fish to restore a population, and it began before the dam removal process was complete for species with long freshwater residence, such as steelhead. Outplanting lasted for around ten years. Natural recolonization of fish began soon after dam removal and will now continue indefinitely.

Graphic: Dam removal timeline with fisheries information

Notes: Assumptions

Hatcheries can serve as fish refuges for native Elwha stock

Fish “windows” will permit escapement to hatcheries or other clean water areas

Hatchery outplanting will speed re-colonization and allow selective re-introduction of stocks

Hatchery outplanting at very early life stages will improve long-term survival of the stock

Natural re-colonization is a “fail-safe” long-term restoration measure for all stocks

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Species 2005 Without Dams

Chinook <750 6,900

Coho <500 12,100

Chum <1,000 18,000

Pink* <200 96,000

Sockeye 0 3,450

Steelhead <150 5,800

Total <2,600 204,350

* Pink Salmon in Puget Sound spawn only during odd numbered years

Successful Spawning Adults

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Script: With the dams in place, existing wild salmon were constrained to the lower five miles of river. Pre-dam-removal, the total number of salmonids in the river numbered around 2,600, with bull trout and chinook listed as threatened species. With restoration of fish passage and full recovery of fish populations, around 200,000 total salmon are projected to return after 12 to 25 years.

Graphic: Estimated Naturally Spawning Run Sizes

Full Script:

Existing chinook, coho, and steelhead runs were largely hatchery-based. The chinook run has never been large enough to support an in-river harvest, even after 25 years of hatchery production in the lower river. With restoration of fish passage and full recovery of fish populations, nearly 200,000 total salmon are projected to return after 12 to 25 years.

Notes: These numbers are in terms of successful spawning adults.

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Special Thanks to:

Elwha and Glines Canyon Site Restoration Videos

Ross Freeman, American Rivers Northwest Office�www.AmericanRivers.Org/Elwha

Photographs

Robert Lundahl

Scott Church

Pat O’Hara

David Zelenka

Susan Pynchon

Betsy Carlson

Tom O’Keefe

Lower Elwha Klallam Tribe

Clallam County Historical Society

Washington State Historical Society

Museum of History and Industry, Seattle WA

National Park Service

US Fish and Wildlife

Image Science and Analysis Laboratory�NASA-Johnson Space Center

Audio and Music

Jonathan Storm Audio Library

Shockwave Sound

Riverbed, Gavin Courtie & Liz Radford

Neom, Jerome Lamasset

Peace at Last, Jeremy Sherman

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