FIBRES FOR SPORTSWEAR

SUMIT CHAUDHARY

2K18/PS/045

ANKITA KUMARI

2K19/PS/501

CONTENT

• INTRODUCTION
• FIBERS PROPERTIES AND ITS MODIFICATION
• TERMS USED IN THE INDUSTRIES TO ASSESS FIBRE PERFORMANCE
• FIBRES FOR SPORTSWEAR I.)MICROFIBRES II.)HOLLOW FIBRES III.)BI-COMPONENT FIBRES
• CELLIANT TECHNOLOGY
• REQUIREMENT OF FIBRES IN SPORTS
• NEED OF FIBRES IN SPORT
• FIBRES USED IN SPORT
• DEVELOPMENTS IN FIBERS AND TEXTILE MATERIALS FOR SPORTSWEAR
• REGENERATED FIBRES FOR SPORTS
• CONCLUSION

ABSTRACT

The sports clothing of today have become technically oriented, using highly functional textiles for both casual and performance sportswear. The recent developments in materials for sportswear have resulted in specialized performances in different sports. In this presentation an overview is given of the recent developments in fibers, yarns, fabrics for applications in active sportswear.

INTRODUCTION

Fibres have a wavy appearance structure and contribute many characteristics to the fabrics that are significant for the performance of functional clothing and sportswear. Sportswear depict attributes, for instance, it provides functional support, enhances performance, protects athlete from strain/injury, promotes sporting activity, communicates fashion and style, and more importantly, it offers the wearer comfort. The most vital factor that fibres/filaments contribute toward wearer comfort is moisture and thermal balance leading to suitable micro-climate next to the skin.

Nylon was the first synthetic fibre, and since then a number of fibre have been produced. Nylon was originally used in toothbrush bristles; and the first recognised textile product made of nylon was stockings replacing silk. Polyester had been used in sportswear since the 1970s because of its dynamic properties resulting in fabrics that are resilient, dimensionally stable, easy care, durable, sunlight and abrasion resistant. These properties make it ideal for an array of sportswear applications.

In this presentation, widely used fibre types are highlighted and their characteristics are critically evaluated. Various technical terms which are used to discover the performance of fibres are also explained. During intense activity, human bodies generate heat and sweat and perspire, and it becomes essential to understand these physiological changes in the context of sports activity.

Sportswear requirements differ from fashion apparel and fibres are often blended to utilise the combined effect of two or three fibres, a typical example, will be wool, polyester and elastomeric fibres. The effect of blending fibre types on the performance of fabrics is discussed.

FIBRES PROPERTIES AND ITS MODIFICATIONS

Fibres possess a wavy swing physical nature called crimp that can affect the warmth and resiliency of fabrics. Textile fibre is describe as a long thin material which has a high degree of fineness and outstanding flexibility. In addition, they added that fibres should have good dimensional and thermal stability, acceptable strength and extensibility. Fibres are broadly classified into natural fibres, regenerated and man-made fibres. Wool fibres possess a natural three-dimensional crimp. In the case of synthetic fibres, texturing process can impart crimp to manufactured fibres or yarns. Fabrics made from crimped yarn or fibres tend to more resilient, and have increased bulk, cohesiveness, and warmth. Cohesiveness is the ability of fibres to cling together and is important in making yarns. Fibre resiliency is the capability of the material to spring back to shape after being creased, twisted, and distorted. Thick fibres possess greater resiliency because there is more mass to absorb the strain, in addition the fibre shape affects fibre resiliency.

TERMS USED FOR ASSESING FIBRE PERFORMANCE

Absorbency: It is ability to take in moisture (expressed as the moisture regain), which is the amount of water a dry fibre absorbs from the air under standard conditions of 210C and 65% relative humidity. Table 1 below presents some of widely used fibres and their moisture regain.

Absorption: It is a process whereby the liquid is fully absorbed by the fibre through its structure and is quite common among hydrophilic fibres (Figure 1).

Adsorption: It is a process, where liquid is taken up between the fibres on their surface rather than being held within the fibre.

Moisture regain: The ratio of the mass of moisture in a material to the oven dry mass, usually expressed in percentage. A dry fibre when placed in a humid atmosphere, will absorb moisture.

Figure 1 Mechanism of water adsorption and absorption

Wicking: It is the ability of fabric to transfer moisture adsorbed on fibres from one section to another. Wicking can also occur if liquid is absorbed within the fibre. A smooth surface reduces wicking action. Cotton (a hydrophilic fibre) and Olefin (hydrophobic) both possess a good wicking action. Fine fibres with channels are capable of transporting liquids.

Hydrophilic - a fibre that has high regain (that absorbs water) is also referred as “water loving”

Hydrophobic– a fibre that does not absorb water; referred to as “water hating“. Regarding the dimensional stability in water - hydrophobic fibres shrink less when washed than hydrophilic fibres. With regard to stain removal it is easier to remove stains from hydrophilic fibres because water and detergent are absorbed into the fibre.

Fibre absorption affects the overall comfort of the wearer, and some of the terms are given below:-

1. Skin discomfort
2. Static build up
3. Water repellency
4. Wrinkle recovery

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Fibre flexibility:- refers to the ability of fibre to bend easily and repeatedly without breaking. Acetate fibre is a flexible fibre used in garments; glass fibre is a stiff fibre.

FIBRES FOR SPORTSWEAR

• MICROFIBRES: Fine diameter fibres less than one denier is often termed as microfibers and has valuable properties. They are soft, durable, drapeable and possess high absorbency and is used for high performance end uses, especially sportswear. It is produced through melt spinning – strict process controls, uniform high quality polymer. Fibres with <0.5 denier cannot withstand tensile forces of melt spinning. Commercially, nylon, polyester, acrylic and rayon are available in the market.
• HOLLOW FIBRES: Hollow fibres have been introduced in 1980s, whose cross-section is hollow and is available shapes - round, trilobal or square. The hollow fibres are resilient, has better recovery, bulky, and provides better thermal insulation by trapping air. Hollow polypropylene fibres are light weight, soft, and offers good thermal insulation used in thermal underwear. Micro fibres are finer than delicate silk offers excellent drape, with luxurious handle, resistance to shrinkage, super- absorbent, and possess strength. These properties enable to them to be used in a wide range of application.

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Figure: Hollow Fibres

Figure: Bi-component filament extrusion

Table: Different types of Bi-component fibres

BI-COMPONENT FIBRES:

Fibre consisting of two polymers which are chemically or physically different or both. Bi-component fibres can be produced with two variants of same generic fibre two types of nylon, two types of acrylic or two generically different fibres polyester or nylon, nylon and elastane. Centexbel, based in Belgium which has an extrusion plant manufactures bi-component fibres. Different type of bi-component fibres are produced based on the end use. Bi-component fibres are made of two components distributed over the entire length of the fibre.

Bi-component fibres are available in staple, filament and microfiber format. By extruding two polymers in one single fibre the different properties of both polymers can be extracted. Bi-component fibre are used in a wide range of functional products including sportswear.

Puma recently developed sportswear including t-shirts, shorts, and sweatshirts which incorporates patented Celliant technology. Celliant is a brand name for bi-component fibre made from polyester which contains a blend of minerals and proprietary ingredients embedded in the core of the fibre. Celliant Technology absorbs and stores the electromagnetic energy emitted from the body and releases it to re-absorbed into the skin and tissue.

CELLIANT TECHNOLOGY

• Celliant® is a revolutionary, patented technology that absorbs and stores the electromagnetic energy emissions from the human body and re-emits them back to the body where they are re-absorbed into the muscle tissue through the use of fibres, converts the body’s natural energy (heat) into infrared (IR) light and emits it into the body’s tissue and muscles. The result is a responsive textile clinically proven to benefit the human body, utilizing a blend of minerals and proprietary ingredients embedded into the fiber’s core. Celliant technology is a blend of proprietary ingredients that recycles vibrant energy (heat) leaving the body into infrared light (IR) and sends it back to the body where it is absorbed by the tissue and muscles. IR waves are beneficial as they penetrate deep into the tissue. This energy causes the body to increase circulation and oxygen wherever it is applied. Celliant is a unique blend of 13 thermo-reactive minerals including titanium dioxide, silicon dioxide and aluminium oxide. Additional proprietary ingredients are blended with polyester fiber to create a variety of staple fibers, spun and filament yarns, and fabric blends.

REQUIREMENTS OF SPORT TEXTILE�

• The requirements for an active sportswear can be as classified in two groups :-
• Functional- light weight,low fluid resistance, high tenacity, strechablility, thermal regulation, UV protection, vapour permeability, and sweat absorption and release, and
• Aesthetics- softness, surface texture, handle, lusture, colour, and comfort.
• Apart from these general requirements, sportswear has to perform other functions activity related to a specific sport.
•  

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DEVELOPMENTS  IN  FIBRES  AND  TEXTILE   �MATERIALS  FOR  SPORTSWEAR:  

• The  evolution  of  fibre  developments  has  gone  through  the  phases  of  conventional  fibres,  highly  functional  fibres  and  high‐performance  fibres.  Polyester  is  the  single  most  common  fibre  used  for  sports  wear  and  active  wear.  Other  fibres  suitable  for  active  wear  are  polyamide,  polypropylene,  acrylic  and  elastanes.  Synthetic  fibres  can  either  be  modified  during  manufacturing  or  be  optimally  blended  with  natural  fibres  to  improve  their  thero‐physiological  and  sensory  properties.  Synthetic  fibres  with  improved  UV  resistance  and  having  anti‐microbial  properties  are  also  commercially  available  for  use  in  sportswear.  New  technologies  for  producing  microfibres  have  also  contributed  towards  production  of  high‐tech  sportswear.

TYPES OF FIBRE USED IN SPORTS WEAR

Polypropylene:

• cannot wick liquid moisture. moisture vapour can still be forced through fabric by body heat.
• providing insulation when wet it can melt at medium heat in home dryers.
• proved performer in moisture management due to its hydrophobic nature and has very good thermal characteristics, keeping the wearer warm in cold weather and cold in warm weather.

Polyester:

• dimensional stability resistance to dirt, alkalies, decay, mold and most common organic solvents,heat resistance or thermal stability.
• used in base fabrics for active wear {low moisture absorption, easy care properties and low cost}.
• hydrophobic and does not absorb moisture.

Viscose Rayon:

• The viscose rayon is not preferred next to skin as it holds water (13 % moisture regain) in sportswear.
• The outer layer of knitted hydrophilic portion of the twin layer Sportswear can be of viscose rayon, which absorbs 2-3 times more moisture than cotton.
• The wicking behavior improves by incorporation of some hydrophobic finishes.

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Nylon:

• lightweight, high strength and softness with good durability.
• Nylon is good fabric choice when combined with PU coatings.
• higher moisture regain { better wicking behavior}.
• It is most often used in tightly woven outerwear, which can trap heat because of low air permeability. It is also used in more breathable knitted fabrics, where it can perform well.

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Cotton:

• good combination of softness and comfort.
• not recommended for use in base layer {because of its tendency to absorb and retain moisture
• During SASMIRA’s trials for wicking of cotton treated with hydrophobic finishes showed good wicking properties

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RECENT DEVELOPMENTS IN FIBRES FOR SPORTS

Hygra

• Unitika Ltd.
• core-sheath type of filament yarn
• composed of fibre made of water absorbing polymer and nylon
• absorbs 35 times its own weight of water and offers quick releasing properties
• nylon core provides the required strength and dimensional stability
• Hygra also exhibits superior antistatic properties even at low wet conditions.
• Applications :- sportswear, athletic wear, skiwear, golf wear etc

• Killat N :
• Killat N from Kanebo Ltd.
• nylon hollow filament.
• The hollow portion is about 33 percent of the cross section of each filament.
• Property
• good water absorbency and heat retentive property.
• yarn is spun as a bi-component filament with a soluble polyester copolymer
• as a core material and nylon as a sheath material.

Nylon filament

Hollow capillary

Dryarn :

• Aquafil’s Dryarn and elastomer
• completely recyclable polypropylene microfibre.
• Property:-
• light in weight and comfortable.
• a soft handle,
• high thermoregulatory capacity
• dries quickly.
• bacteria can not settle on smooth polypropylene fibre surface that avoids development of unpleasant odour associated with bacterial growth

• Triactor:
• Toyobo Co. Ltd
• perspiration absorbing/quick drying polyester filament.
• Polyester is hydrophobic in nature and does not absorb moisture but changing the filaments to Y shaped cross secton it gets perspiration absorbing by capillary action.

• Lycra25:
• synthetic fibre of long chain polymer
• composed of at least 85% segmented polyurethane,
• swimwear, active sportswear, floor gymnastics
• Adding Lycra to a fabric gives it stretch

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Regenerated fibres for Sportswear

• Tencel:
• Lyocell
• natural, manmade fibre
• popular in clothing
• moisture management is unique allows for peak performances in sports.

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Bamboo:

• bamboo fibre yarns
• excellent wet permeability, moisture vapour transmission property, soft hand, better drape, easy dyeing, splendid colours
• Bamboo fibre has a unique function of anti bacteria, which is suitable to make underwear, tight t- shirt and socks. Its anti – ultraviolet nature is suitable to make summer clothing

Soybean:

• soybean protein contained in the fibre remakes a superior, soft hand endowed with both moisture absorbency and permeability, which makes best application in knits and innerwear.
• Finishes with an antibacterial agent, health-care functionalities are also given. It has great potential in its use in high-grade knit and innerwear

Conclusion

• Sporting culture in the world has changed dramatically in recent years following the emergence of a new generation of consumers. This presentation gives a brief understanding of what type of fibres are used in sportwear and what are the recent advances in fibres for sportswear. Market growth is being fuelled by the emergence of new fibres, new fabrics and innovative process technologies. More developed technologies, improved functional properties of sportswear, new fibres and fabrics are expected to come out in the near future to meet stringent expectations.

References

• https://www.ijert.org/recent-development-in-textile-for-sportswear-application
• http://op.niscair.res.in/index.php/IJFTR/article/view/7733
• https://www.textileblog.com/sports-textiles-applications-properties-opportunities/
• https://zenodo.org/record/3524756#.YZCvImBBzIU
• https://www.technicaltextile.net/articles/technical-textiles-and-their-applications-3922
• ASTM D 1909 (2004), Standard table of commercial moisture regains for textile fibers, American Society of Textile Materials, ASTM
• BISFA (2014), International Association of man-made fibres
• Coolcore www.coolcore.com