Queens for Pennies�or� How to produce about 8 queens�for a couple of bucks in less than a month�This Powerpoint presentation goes with my article “Queens for Pennies” at ScientificBeekeeping.com.� �All photos © Randy Oliver 2014 , unauthorized reproduction prohibited.�I grant permission to use this slide show for private use, or for showing to beekeeping groups. �I’d of course appreciate a donation to ScientificBeekeeping.com.�
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�This method is for the recreational or sideline beekeeper who only needs to produce a few queens.��This is not how we produce queens commercially. If you want a Powerpoint on how to produce queens on a larger scale, contact me at�randy@randyoliver.com�� ��
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Copyright Randy Oliver 2014 Unauthorized reproduction prohibited
Best results during swarming season
It’s easiest, and you’ll get the best queens and matings if you rear queens during normal swarming season.
Set up queenless starter/finisher:
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This simple method uses a queenless starter-finisher colony (the cell builder).��
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*or above another colony, over a Snellgrove-type board, to transfer heat in cold weather.
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Start with a strong healthy single
Use bees from a colony with plenty of emerging brood.
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You don’t want to disrupt the bees any more than necessary.
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Remove the queen
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Place her aside for safekeeping
I keep a nuc box handy in which to place the queen on her frame. This tip saves you from misplacing the queen
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Find a frame of pollen
Look in the lower brood chamber, second frame in from either side, the side facing toward the broodnest.
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A frame of mixed colored pollens is most likely to provide complete nutrition. Or make a frame using frozen natural pollen.
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Some young brood
A patch of newly-emerging larvae will produce the pheromones that attract the nurse bees to the queen cells,
and stimulate the nurses to produce abundant royal jelly.
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Place young brood and pollen facing each other in center
I like to set up my cell builder away from the parent hive, so that the older bees will fly home and take care of the queen. This method uses a single-story queenless cell starter/finisher. Commercially, I use a queenless starter, and the next day put it over a queenright finisher over a queen excluder. Queenright colonies are less prone to sting.
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Shake extra bees from brood frames
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Lots of nurse bees
You can shake from more than one hive—the old bees fly home; nurse bees remain where shook, and don’t fight.
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The next few slides show how I use a sieve box (a medium super with a queen excluder screwed to the bottom to keep from
inadvertently shaking a queen into the cell starter. The sieve box works better if lined with sheet aluminum.
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Old bees fly home!
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Gently brush the bees down off the sides, using a minimum of smoke to guide them down.
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Queens, even virgins, can’t get through the excluder.
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Make sure that there is no queen in the cell builder!
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You want the cell starter packed with bees, until they cover the frames and hang like grapes from the lid. The colder the weather,
the more bees you want, so that the cells don’t chill.
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Optional: I add the frame of “hatching” eggs from my chosen breeder queen at this time. This allows the bees to choose in advance which larvae they “prefer” to make into queens. Those chosen larvae will be given extra jelly, which also makes for better grafting. I remove this frame in a few hours to graft from (brush the bees, don’t shake) and do not put it back into the starter.
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Shake syrup if no flow
If nectar shakes from the bees when you shake them, you don’t need to feed; otherwise give them
a light drenching with 1:1 sugar syrup.
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Feed if no nectar flow
I use a jar top feeder. You don’t want to feed too much syrup, or the bees will build comb around the cells.
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Meticulous record keeping
It’s important to mark down the grafting date and queen mother. This was graft #16 of the season, queen mother G, and the date.
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Graft freshly-hatched larvae
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The younger you start the larvae, the better the queens. The larvae in the top three rows are the right age. Only graft from an older dark comb, since the bottoms of the cells with then be rounded. It is difficult to graft from new combs.
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Natural cell cups
You can use natural cell cups cut from the combs, but the bees prefer the plastic cups, and there is no chemical contamination of wax to affect queen development.
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The bees will choose plastic cups left in the combs over natural cups when they raise supersedure cells! I see it time and again.
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Plastic cell cups
This is one way that we do it commercially; about 17 cups on a bar, three bars per starter.
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These natural cells in this colony is what gave me the idea for this simple method.
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All you need to do is to scrape a channel in the comb on either the pollen or young larva frame. This creates a space for the bees to draw out the queen cells that we are going to add.
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Tools of the trade. JZ’s BZ’s plastic cell cups, Chinese grafting tool, damp towel, magnifying jeweler’s headlamp.
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Chinese Grafting Tool
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Larva
Step 1: Quickly slide the tool straight down the cell wall so that the blade approaches the larva from the outside of its body curve. Do not push down on the plunger at this time.
Do not try to graft from light-colored combs—you want an old dark one. Tip: place an old, dark drawn comb into the center of the breeder queen colony 4 or 5 days before grafting. It will be full of the correct age larvae when you graft.
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Larva
Step 2. The blade will follow the curve on the rounded bottom of the cell and scoot under the jelly without disturbing the larva.
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Larva
Step 3. Now pull the tool straight up. The jelly (and larva) will stick like glue to the blade.
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Larva
Step 4. Hold a plastic cell cup in the fingers of your other hand. Push the tool down into the center of the cup until the blade is slightly bent. Now you push down on the plunger with your index finger to push the jelly (and undisturbed larva) off into the cell cup. With practice, you’ll pull up slightly on the tool at the same time. Easy!
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The tool in use, having lifted a larva and its jelly. The larva is not disturbed. The entire process of grafting a larva should only take seconds.
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If you inserted the grafting frame into the cell builder a few hours earlier, you can graft slightly older, well-fed larvae like the one indicated.
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High humidity
In our dry California weather, it’s critical to keep the larvae from drying out. Chilling does not appear to harm them.
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If you’re over 40, it’s far easier to graft in a very dark room! Here I’m using a jeweler’s magnifier, with a backpacking headlamp centered on my forehead. This makes grafting much, much easier.
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Here I’m showing off to a class by grafting in full sun out in the bee yard. Do not allow direct sunlight to hit the larvae!
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As you graft each cell, place it face down on the damp towel. The larvae won’t fall out.
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Once you’ve grafted a dozen cells, you can press them into the top of the channel, ¾” on center.
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A closer view.
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Here’s a grafted larva and jelly in the bottom of a cell cup.
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A closer view of grafted larvae with the cups in a wooden cell bar.
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Do this quickly so the larvae don’t dry out.
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Now drop this frame back into the cell starter. Again, pollen facing young larva.
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24 hrs later
Here you can see the cups half full of jelly, and the bees starting to draw the wax cells. Two cells didn’t “take.”
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This is how they’d look from the bottom—the future queens floating in jelly.
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Two days after grafting. Cups now full of jelly, other than the one that didn’t take.
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Top view. You don’t need to pull the frame to check on how many took—you can see those with jelly through the clear cups.
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The cells develop rapidly.
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At about 4 days after grafting, feeding is complete, and the workers will start to cap the cells.
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The next six slides are how I do it on larger scale.
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If there is a nectar flow on, the bees may build burr comb around the cells. You can carefully cut it off.
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Well-fed queen larvae should have excess unconsumed jelly left after they pupate.
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I generally put the cells into a home made incubator for safekeeping the last two days before emergence. You do not need to do this.
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Oops! Screw up on timing. These virgins hatched out early!
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Queens usually emerge on
Day 11-12 after grafting.
Make up mating nucs on
Day 9 or 10.
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You now need to make up a queenless nucleus hive (nuc) for each ripe queen cell. The virgin queen must emerge in a queenless nuc.
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We set up an assembly line to break down strong colonies into nucs. For small scale, you can pull frames out of strong colonies, shaking all the bees off each in turn to make sure there is no queen on any; then place them in a hive body over a queen excluder, placed over a strong colony. Young bees will quickly climb up to cover the frames of brood. You can then remove the nuc; best to move it to another mating yard to avoid bees drifting back to the parent colony. On cool days, bees will cluster on your back.
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5-frame nuc box
We initially put only 4 frames into a 5-frame box to give us working room. If there is a strong nectar flow on, add a fifth frame of foundation.
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Here’s a plywood divider board (with “ears” and deep enough to touch the bottom board) that we use to temporarily split a deep box into two nucs. We really like this method, since you can easily pull the board to combine two nucs.
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2-way nuc box
DIVISION BOARD
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We insert an entrance reducer with a 1” gap at either end.
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If the nucs will be exposed to hot sun, we shade them with extra hive covers.
Our early spring weather can quickly change from warm nectar flow to snow and back. I continue queen rearing throughout. Here I’m putting a frame of freshly-grafted larvae into a cell starter. The next day I’ll drop the entire starter into the queenright finisher colony below. With enough bees in the starter, and heat from below, these queen cells will develop normally.
On warm days we can make up nucs while wearing minimal protective gear.
We set up our assembly table on sawhorses, and use deboxers to lift the frames. Strong hives come in at this end, made up nucs are taken off the far end of the table and loaded onto the truck for delivery to a mating yard. Three of us easily make up 50-100 nucs each afternoon.
When cells are ripe, we have to make up nucs even in the rain...
…or while it’s snowing! We just work fast to keep from chilling the bees and brood.
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Scatter nucs
Scatter the nucs into irregular patterns, thinking of how they’d look to a queen returning from her first mating flight. We typically put 5-frame boxes in pairs with the entrances facing opposite directions. You want lots of landmarks (we use the edge of fencerows or yard trash to help the queens to orient.
After the nucs sit for a day or two, they know that they are queenless, and will readily accept a ripe cell.
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The full frame of honey that we put into each nuc is generally enough food. If not, we’ll feed syrup or dry Drivert sugar. Note the use of the cleared soil as a landmark.
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Transfer cells the next day.
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Use your hive tool to pry out your ripe cells, prying only on the plastic cup. Do not shake or jar the cells. The cells usually emerge on Day 12 after grafting, but since I started breeding for mite resistance, sometimes they emerge as early as day 10½!
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Here is what your finished cells should look like. Carry them either close to your skin or in an incubator box to keep them at broodnest temperature.
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Insert cells into brood frames
Press the cells into a brood frame in the center of the nuc, pressing only on the plastic cup. If the weather is cold, make sure that the cell lies over brood cells, or the bees may not keep it warm.
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Do this either bare fingered, or wear latex gloves. Leather gloves are too clumsy.
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Cell
protectors
If you can’t wait a day, put the ripe cell into a cell protector to prevent the bees from chewing out its side.
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These are groups of four 2-way nucs, scattered closer than normal. But we still get acceptable mate out. Note thin gloves and cuffs.
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You can tell if you accidentally got a queen into a nuc by the “beard” the next day when you arrive to put in the cells. Bees will drift from the queenless nucs to any accidental queenright ones.
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By the end of Day 12 after grafting, the virgins should have emerged, leaving a round hole at the end of the cell. If there is a hole in the side, the virgin did not emerge.
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This is what she looks like at first, and will fight any other queen.
Virgin queens are hard to spot!
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In a couple of days she will be in slim flying trim, and usually takes her first mating flight in the early afternoon about 7 days after emergence, very much dependent upon genetics and temperature.
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Another virgin (center), ready to fly. Virgins are very close in size to workers, but move more quickly on the combs.
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A drone comet chasing a virgin queen. She zigs and zags and makes them work for it! She’s at the upper top left facing away.
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Another comet, a drone in the act at top left. Enlargement on next slide.
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Drone starting to mount the queen at top left. Looks like the previous lucky drone is falling head down.
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A freshly-returned queen after successful mating, carrying a “mating sign” (the endophallus of the last drone) protruding from the tip of her abdomen. The workers will remove it.
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Notice that the workers still largely ignore the queen until a couple of days after she’s mated.
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Her abdomen will swell after a couple of days as her ovaries fill full of eggs.
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We typically check for successful mate out 14 days after we put in the ripe cells, if there has been good flight weather. Otherwise, the virgin queens may wait for 3 weeks. At 3 weeks, any nuc without a queen will start to go laying worker. You can tell if they have a queen present, as they will keep the center of the broodnest open in preparation for her to lay..
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Alternatively, we check back on Day 19 after nuc make up, and apply an oxalic acid dribble to knock back varroa during this one-day treatment window opportunity. See my article “Simple Early Treatment of Nucs” at
http://scientificbeekeeping.com/simple-early-treatment-of-nucs-against-varroa/
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This is the best part—getting a good mate out! In good weather, typical success rate is around 80% (95% gives you bragging rights). In poor weather, you may only get 30% or lower. At this time we add the frames from the unsuccessful nucs to the ones with mated queens to make them all up to 5 frames.
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You don’t need to actually see the mated queen—you only need to see a good laying pattern. A queen will lay one egg per cell, usually in the center and tipped all in the same direction (she may lay more than one egg per cell during her first exuberant days, esp. if the nuc is small). Laying workers (typ. after 21 days of queenlessness) will lay multiple eggs, scattered, and not centered).
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The fruit of your labor—a lovely young daughter from your selected breeder. Note the formation of the retinue of bees around her—indicating that she is secreting plenty of queen pheromone, which is critical for good colony morale.
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At this time you have three weeks max. until you need to transfer the nuc to a larger box. The nuc will then explode in strength as the first round of brood emerges.
�Once you’ve practiced, you’ll find that it’s really easy to rear a few queens.��If we work together to propagate mite-resistant, locally-adapted stocks of bees, we can win the fight against varroa!��Good luck, and happy beekeeping!��Randy Oliver�ScientificBeekeeping.com�� ��
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