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WHAT IS

BIOFABRICATING

MATERIALS?

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WHAT ARE BIOMATERIALS?

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MATERIAL

TECHNIQUES

CRAFTED

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BIO-plastic, -silicone, -resin, -foam

FISH -leathers, -plastics

FRUIT-leather

ALGAE-leather, -yarn

BOMBIX

COCONUT-mat

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MATERIAL

APPLICATIONS

PLASTICS, BRICKS

& YARNS

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BIO-plastic, -silicone, -resin, -foam

FISH scale-plastic

ALGAE-yarn

FUNGII-brick

BOMBIX-brick

COCONUT-mat

SPIDER-yarn

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MATERIAL

CATEGORIES

RAW INGREDIENTS

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GELATINE

GLYCERINE

ALGAE

ALGINATE

CELLULOSE

BACTERIA

SILK

SKIN

FISH

WATER

ETHANOL

PIGMENTS

PLANTS

FRUITS

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ALTERNATIVE

LEATHERS

Photo credits Muskin - gradozero

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ALTERNATIVE LEATHERS

MICROBIAL -leather

FISH -leather

FRUIT -leather

ALGAE -leather

TEMPEH -leather

MYCELIUM -leather

LAB GROWN -leather

COCONUT -leather

Photo credits Muskin - gradozero

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MICROBIAL

LEATHER

MICROBIAL

LEATHER

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KOMBUCHA

Kombucha is a fermented tea with a symbiotic colony of bacterial yeast (SCBOBY).

Bacteria feeding on a liquid medium of sugars and tea, start creating an acidic environment which allows them to thrive and spin cellulose layers.

It grows best between 25-30 degrees Celsius, at lower temperatures the kombucha pellicle will grow, but slowly.

There are hundreds of different strains of kombucha.

KOMBUCHA FILM, FOIL, LEATHER

​

Kombucha can be grown at different thicknesses

Kombucha material is a layered cellulose, where the grown material is washed and then dried, either flat or in shape. To preserve the material, it must undergo a post-growth treatment to soften, make elastic or dry the kombucha pellicle. Different growing mediums and recipes create different colours or textures, while the different treatments change the properties of the material.

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KOMBUCHA – CELLS STRUCTURE

400X PHOTO BENJAMIN WOLFE

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MICROBIAL LEATHER

HOW TO

​

  • Brew 1 liter of black or green tea

​

  • Add at least 120 grams sugar, stir until the sugar is dissolved, then place in a sterile container and let cool down.

​

  • Measure the temperature, you are looking for ±30degrees. Then add the kombucha scoby and its liquid

​

  • Place everything in the growing tray, jar or box, cover with a lid but don’t seal it, air

​

  • Let it grow for ±30days at 30degrees, or until you have at least 1cm thickness

​

  • Take your wet grown matt out and place it to dry on a 3d shape or on a flat tray

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MICROBIAL

LEATHER

RECIPES

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MICROBIAL

LEATHER

RECIPES

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RECIPE &

AFTER

TREATMENT

THR345D

https://thr34d5.org/2019/08/20/karp/

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KOMBUCHA

projects

KOMBUCHA

projects

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KOMBUCHA – SURZHANA RADNAEVA (kimono design) & THR345D (material design)

KOMBUCHA FILM

SURZHANA RADNAEVA & THR345D

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KOMBUCHA – SURZHANA RADNAEVA (kimono design) & THR345D (material design)

KOMBUCHA FILM

SURZHANA RADNAEVA & THR345D

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SUZANNE LEE

KOMBUCHA – SUZANNE LEE

MICROBIAL LEATHER 3D MOULDED TOP

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KOMBUCHA – SUZANNE LEE

MICROBIAL LEATHER BOMBER JACKET & JEANS JACKET DYED WITH INDIGO

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KOMBUCHA – SUZANNE LEE

MICROBIAL LEATHER LASER CUT SKIRT

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KOMBUCHA – SUZANNE LEE

MICROBIAL LEATHER LASER CUT AND MOULDED SHOES

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KOMBUCHA – LORENA TREBBI X TEXTILELAB AMSTERDAM

KOMBUCHA FILMS

LORENA TREBBI

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Kawasaki Kazuya

KOMBUCHA – KAWASAKI KAZUYA

MICROBIAL LEATHER - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=owGGRtxG4qE

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KOMBUCHA – SAMMY JOBBINS

LASERCUT STRUCTURE AND KOMBUCHA FILM

SAMMY JOBBINS

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BIOPLASTICS

KOMBUCHA – ZIONIUM

GREEN TEA AND BLACK TEA WALLET

ZIONIUM

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BIOPLASTICS

KOMBUCHA – EMMA VAN DER LEEST @ BIOCOUTURE LONDON

KOMBUCHA AND PIGMENTS BAG

EMMA VAN DER LEEST

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KOMBUCHA – MOYA HOKE

GREEN TEA KOMBUCHA SUIT

MOYA HOKE

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KOMBUCHER – BARBARA ARTEAGA

KOMBUCHA ELCTROSPINNING MACHINE

BARBARA ARTEAGA

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FISH SKIN

LEATHER

FISH SKIN

LEATHER

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FISHSKIN LEATHER

HOW TO

​

  • Clean the salmon skins from left over flesh and pull off the scales with a blunt knife.

​

  • Choose a bottle with a wide neck

​

  • Add to it in equal parts glyceryne and ethanol at 96%, mix well.

​

  • Add the salmon skin in the bottle

​

  • Close the bottle with its lid and mix it 5-20 of times a day for three days

​

  • After 3 days: strain off the liquid in a clean container and put the skin to dry. Then break (massage) till soft.

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FISH SKIN LEATHER SUIT AND BOOTS – INUITS - MOMA

FISH SKIN

INUITS

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FISH LEATHER – MARIA HEES

CARP LEATHER DYED AND NATURALLY TANNED

MARIA HEES

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FISH LEATHER – NIENKE HOOGVLIET

SALMON SKIN, NATURALLY TANNED ON METAL

NIENKE HOOGVLIET

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FISH LEATHER – NIENKE HOOGVLIET

SALMON SKIN, NATURALLY TANNED ON METAL

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FISH LEATHER – NIENKE HOOGVLIET

SALMON SKIN, NATURALLY TANNED ON METAL

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JELLY FISH LEATHER – JURII KASAO

JELLY FISH SKIN, NATURALLY TANNED DRIED ON 3D MOULD

JURII KASAO

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MYCELIUM

LEATHER

MYCELIUM

LEATHER

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MYCELIUM

Mycelium is the vegetative part of a fungus.

Mycelium looks like strings often white or cream coloured that grow in long fibres called hyphae. This structure, as a whole, is the vegetative structure of fungi.

This is why mycelium is able to colonise other materials, like a substratum, think of straw or coffee for example, but also liquid nutrients. This colonisation fosters the creation of a new material.

MYCELIUM BRICK, LEATHER

Mycelium can be grown in many different ways, on a large variety of substratum.

Mycelium grown materials are often fireproof, waterproof or sound isolating. They are also completely compostable and organic.

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MYCELIUM LEATHER

HOW TO

​

  • Make your liquid nutrient-rich medium: mix malt extract, yeast extract, petptone, glucose and distilled water together in a jar, and sterilise it by autoclaving, with the pressure cooker. Let it cool to room temperature.
  • In a sterilised area (made with a gas burner and ethanol), slice your mycelium out of the petri dish and remove the jelly agar. Then place the the liquid nutrient medium into the container (sterilized) and inoculate with mycelium.
  • Let it grow in a static position for 5-10 days at 23-28°C.
  • Harvest the mycelium sheet
  • Plasticise the mycelium sheet and let it soak in glycerine in a plastic film for several hours (24-48h). The mycelium sheet can also be (heat) pressed.
  • Rinse the mycelium sheet to remove the plasticiser
  • Dry the mycelium sheet in the oven at 90-150°C for several hours.

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MYCELIUM

RECIPES

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MYCELIUM

RECIPES

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MYCELIUM

projects

MYCELIUM

projects

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Officina Corpuscoli - MAURIZIO MONTALTI

MYCELIUM LEATHER – MAURIZIO MONTALTI

GROWING LAB

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MYCELIUM LEATHER – MAURIZIO MONTALTI

GROWING LAB

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Mogu - Maurizio Montalti

MYCELIUM LEATHER – mogu / MAURIZIO MONTALTI

GROWING LAB

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MYCELIUM LEATHER – ANIELA HOITINK

DRESS 3D MOULDED

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ANIELA HOITINK

MYCELIUM LEATHER – ANIELA HOITINK

DRESS 3D MOULDED

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Fungal futures

MYCELIUM LEATHER – fungal futures expo

http://www.fungal-futures.com

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gradozero

MYCELIUM LEATHER – Muskin

gradozero

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Mycoworks

MYCELIUM LEATHER – mycoworks

Industrial mycelium leather

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MYCELIUM resources – mycoworks

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FRUIT

LEATHER

FRUIT

LEATHER

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FRUIT LEATHER – FRUITLEATHER ROTTERDAM

FRUIT LEATHER

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FRUIT LEATHER – FRUITLEATHER ROTTERDAM

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FRUIT LEATHER – FRUITLEATHER ROTTERDAM

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FRUIT LEATHER – FRUITLEATHER ROTTERDAM

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BARBARA SANCHEZ – FABTEXTILES

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AURORE BOURGIGNON X FABTEXTILES

BIOCOMPOSITES – AURORE BOURGIGNON X FABTEXTILES

NATURAL RESINS COMPOSITES

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AURORE BOURGIGNON X FABTEXTILES

BIOCOMPOSITES – AURORE BOURGIGNON X FABTEXTILES

NATURAL RESINS COMPOSITES

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ALGAE

FABRICS

ALGAE

FABRICS

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VIOLAINE BUET

ALGAE FABRICS – VIOLAINE BUET

ALGAE LEATHER AND STRIP YARN

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ALGAE FABRICS – VIOLAINE BUET

LAYERED ASSEMBLED ALGAE LEATHER

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ALGAE FABRICS – VIOLAINE BUET

WOVEN ALGAE STRIP YARN & COTTON THREAD

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TJEERD VEENHOVEN

ALGAE YARN – TJEERD VEENHOVEN

ALGAE FIBERS AND YARN

ALGAE YARN – TJEERD VEENHOVEN

ALGAE FIBERS AND YARN

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ALGAE YARN – TJEERD VEENHOVEN

ALGAE FIBERS AND YARN

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JULIA LOHMANN

ALGAE LEATHER – JULIA LOHMANN

https://www.julialohmann.co.uk

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ALGAE LEATHER – JULIA LOHMANN

https://www.julialohmann.co.uk

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TEMPEH

LEATHER

TEMPEH

LEATHER

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XXLAB

TEMPEH LEATHER – SOYA C(O)U(L)TURE - XXLAB

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TEMPEH LEATHER – SOYA C(O)I(L)TURE - XXLAB

LASER CUT

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HI TECH

LAB GROWN

LEATHER

HI-TECH

LAB GROWN

LEATHER

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Tina Gorjanc

Lab grown skin – “Pure Human” Tina Gorjanc

LEATHER GROWN FROM ALEXANDER McQUEEN SKIN

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Modern meadow

Lab grown leather - Zoa

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SILKS

SILKS

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Simon peers & Nicholas Godley

Spider silk – Simon Peers & Nicholas Godley

Spider silk from Madagascar dyed and woven into a cape

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ADIDAS

Spider silk – adidas

Industrial engineers spider silk

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Bolt threads

Spider silk – bolt threads

Industrial engineers spider silk

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COOPERATION

WITH

NATURE

COOPERATION WITH

NATURE

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Carole collet

Domesticated roots – Carole collet

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Genetically-engineered plants - edible textiles – Carole Collet

https://vimeo.com/80612467

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Diana scherer

Rootsystsem domestication – Diana scherer

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Rootsystsem domestication – Diana scherer

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Rootsystsem domestication – Diana scherer

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MIX

MIX

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Tamara orJola

FOREST WOOL – tamara orjola

PINE TREE FIBERS

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SARMITE POLAKOVA

Bark fabrics – SARMITE POLAKOVA

https://studiosarmite.com

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BILLIE VAN KATWIJK

COW STOMACH LEATHER - VENTRI – BILLIE VAN KATWIJK

https://www.billievankatwijk.com/ventri

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AUSTEJA PLATUKYTE

PINE TREE RESIN COMPOSITES – AUSTEJA PLATUKYTE

NATURAL RESIN COMPOSITES

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LARA CAMPOS

BIOCOMPOSITES – LARA CAMPOS

NATURAL RESINS COMPOSITES

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LARA CAMPOS

BIOCOMPOSITES – LARA CAMPOS

NATURAL RESINS COMPOSITES

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LARA CAMPOS x FABTEXTILES

BIOCOMPOSITES – LARA CAMPOS

NATURAL RESINS COMPOSITES

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BEATRIZ SANDINI

BIOPLASTICS – BEATRIZ SANDINI

MANGO-TAPIOCA -BIOLEATHER, CARRAGEANS&IRISH MOSS ALGAE, TAPIOCA; -BIOPLASTICS

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MATERIAL

ARCHIVE

MATERIAL ARCHIVES

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MATERIAL ARCHIVES

MATERIABILITY

http://materiability.com

FABMATERIALS

FABLAB KAMP-LINTFORT

FABTEXTILES

FABTEXTILE BARCELONA

MATERIAL ARCHIVE

TEXTILELAB AMSTERDAM

MATERIAL EXPERIENCE

POLITECNICO MILANO

OPEN MATERIALS

http://openmaterials.org

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MATERIAL ARCHIVES

SITTERWERK

http://SITTERWERK.CH

SURFACEMATTER

http://SURFACEMATTER.CO.UK

ZHDK MATERIAL

https://www.zhdk.ch/en/miz/1387/material-archive-1774

MATERIO

httpS://MATERIO.COM

MATERFAD

http://es.materfad.com

MATERIAL CONNEXION

httpS://MATERIALCONNEXION.COM

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QUESTIONS?

​

coordination@textile-academy.org

cecilia@waag.org

textilelab@waag.org

QUESTIONS?

​

coordination@textile-academy.org

cecilia@waag.org

textilelab@waag.org

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