Care and Maintenance of the Home Lawn

Greg Haas

University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardener

The information in this presentation is predominantly taken from and available at:��extension.umn.edu/lawns-and-landscapes/lawn-care

Why Do We Grow Turfgrass

• Golf Courses
• Home Lawns
• Garden Paths
• Right of Ways
• Erosion Control
• Aesthetics
• Sports

Environmental Benefits

• Prevent erosion by wind and water
• Improve flood control
• Help the breakdown of organic chemicals
• Reduce noise
• Provide wildlife habitat
• Create a cooling effect during warm weather
• Add visual appeal

Erosion Control

Turfgrasses are some of the most effective ground covers for sites with steep slopes to prevent erosion, saturated soil, and severely compacted soil. 

• They protect frozen ground over winter.
• When established, they allow water to better infiltrate into the soil.
• Cool season grasses have a dense network of roots that help trap and remove pollutants from water as it moves through the soil.
• Runoff water moves slower, so it cannot carry as much sediment or other soil particles as faster-moving water.

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Improved Soil

The periodic shedding of grass roots, stems and leaves is a normal part of the annual growth cycle of cool season grasses and adds large amounts of helpful organic matter to the soil over time.

• This organic material creates a healthier, thick and vigorous lawn by improving soil structure.

It contributes to:

• Improved water infiltration
• Increased rooting depth allowing for greater access to soil water and nutrients
• Improved microbial activity

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Turfgrass Helps Cool the Air

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Lawns, trees, and shrubs play an important role in reducing air temperatures by providing shade and evaporation through evapotranspiration, which is the process the process of water evaporating off of plants.

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Temperature reduction can range from 7 to 14 degrees and can curb summer air conditioning costs. One estimate suggests that planting lawns and other landscape plants could reduce total U.S. air conditioning energy requirements by 25 percent.

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Turfgrass Benefits Air Quality

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During the active growing season, it is estimated that a healthy lawn area of 25 square feet will provide enough oxygen for one adult person for one day.

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Green plants, including lawns, through photosynthesis, reduce carbon dioxide in the atmosphere while giving back oxygen.

Turfgrass Benefits Air Quality (cont.)

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Recycling clippings by mulching and leaving on the lawn to decompose decreases the amount of carbon released into the atmosphere by 11 to 59 percent over removing clippings.

Turfgrass Benefits Health

Lawns and landscape plantings contribute to reductions in noise levels by absorbing and deflecting sounds. They also reduce glare and light reflection.

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Appealing landscapes have positive effects on people. A healthy, maintained lawn creates an inviting view for those passing by and provides a pleasing, natural backdrop for other landscape elements.

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Establishing a New Lawn

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Should I seed or sod?

Seeding

Advantages

• More grass species and varieties to choose from
• Less expensive than sodding
• Stronger root system development initially and long term
• No layering of soil types to cause rooting problems

(Best time to seed is Mid-August to Mid-Sept.)

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Seeding

Disadvantages:

• Initial establishment takes more time
• For best results, time of seeding is limited mainly to late summer and early fall
• Moisture is critical for the young seedlings
• It takes nearly a full season to achieve a mature and durable lawn
• Weed pressure will be greater

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Sodding

Advantages:

• Rapid establishment and relatively weed-free in the beginning
• Good for slopes or areas prone to erosion
• Can be laid virtually any time during the growing season
• "Instant" lawn

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Sodding

Disadvantages:

• Less flexibility in choosing species; most sod in Minnesota will be Kentucky bluegrass
• Expensive
• Labor intensive to install
• Potential layering of soil types that causes rooting issues

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Seed Options for Shade

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For shady locations, look for seed mixtures specifying shade tolerance. These will contain fescues along with some common and shade-tolerant Kentucky bluegrasses.

Seed Options for Sun

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For sunny areas that receive a lot of wear, mixtures of improved Kentucky bluegrasses, perennial ryegrasses, or tall fescues are best.

Low Maintenance

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For low maintenance turf, mixtures of fine fescues or turf-type tall fescues will offer a durable lawn.

Soil Prep (Sod or Seed)

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• SOIL TEST
• Make amendments as prescribed by the soil test.
• Firm the soil slightly with a roller

Seeding Tips

• Spread seed at half rate perpendicularly
• Rake in lightly, leaving about 10-15% showing
• Use a roller to ensure seed/soil contact
• Water to depth of 4-6 inches then water lightly 3-4 times/day until germination
• Reduce watering after germination as roots grow

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Established Seeded Lawn

Sod options

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Most of the sod grown in Minnesota is a mixture of Kentucky bluegrass varieties. Occasionally, some perennial ryegrass, improved varieties of tall fescue or fine fescue are available in the mixture.

Sodding Tips

• Use fresh sod, no more than 24 hours since cut
• Lay sod on slightly moistened soil, stagger seams
• On slopes, lay across the slope and stake if needed, fill cracks with soil to avoid drying
• Use a light roller to ensure good soil contact
• Keep moist but not saturated until firmly rooted then reduce water
• Tug test at 10-14 days, if firmly rooted treat as an established lawn

Established Sodded Lawn

Existing Lawns

• Watering
• Fertilizer
• Mowing
• Weeds
• Pests
• Diseases

Water

Lawns may require up to one inch of water per week depending on grass type, soil condition and cultural practices.

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Let’s discuss water-saving strategies

Water-Saving Strategies

Pay attention to the Weather

• Adjust watering strategies according to natural rainfall (Rain Gauge)
• Don’t “set it and forget it”
• Use manual mode on sprinkler systems
• Water when lawn shows stress, not on a schedule
• Asphalt and concrete don’t grow.

Select Drought Tolerant Species

• Fescue species offer the greatest drought tolerance
• Fine fescue simply uses less water
• Tall fescue has deep root system to access more moisture

Encourage Root Growth

• Water infrequently (once a week or less)
• Water deeply (6 inches)
• Water during morning hours to reduce loss to evaporation

Audit Irrigation System

There are three basic steps:

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• Check system components including sprinklers, valves and controllers.

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• Conduct a performance test.

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• Program the controller.

Water-Saving Technology

• Rain Sensors
• Soil Moisture Sensors
• Smart Controllers

Good Cultural Practices

• Mowing heights of 3 inches or greater reduce loss of moisture through evaporation
• PROPER fertilizer use
• Core aeration and top-dressing with compost increases organic matter in soil

Added organic matter improves water infiltration in heavy soil and increases moisture holding capacity of sandy soils

Change Expectations

Consider changing your lawn expectations to allow for temporary discoloration during drought periods. It is very rare to have extended droughts that completely compromise the integrity of a lawn.

Design for Conservation

Choose plants that are well-suited to your site including drought-tolerant plants for dry areas. Mulch garden beds to retain soil moisture and reduce weeds. Retain water on-site using rain barrels, raingardens, and planted slopes.

Fertilization

Quick facts

• Fertilizers add nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium to the soil to help plant growth.
• On every bag of fertilizer, you will find an analysis of the nutrients in the fertilizer.
• Natural and manufactured fertilizers have different characteristics.
• All types of fertilizer can contribute to pollution, if used incorrectly.
• Spot treating weeds may be more effective than using a weed-and-feed product over your entire lawn.

Why Fertilize?

Fertilizers are important in lawn care because they supplement the soil with needed nutrients.

• Nutrients are needed by grass plants because of the many stresses people apply to them.
• Grass uses nutrients to repair damage done by normal wear and mowing.
• Other plants in the landscape, such as trees, flowers and weeds, also consume the nutrients.
• Nutrients are lost when clippings are removed while mowing.

What’s in Fertilizer

The three main nutrients needed by plants are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K)

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Nitrogen

Nitrogen is used by plants for lots of leaf growth and good green color.

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• For a home lawn, the most important nutrient to add on a regular basis is nitrogen.

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• See U of M Recommendations

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Phosphorus

Phosphorous is used by plants to help form new roots, make seeds, fruit and flowers.

• Adding phosphorus in the form of fertilizer is usually not needed, Midwest soils are Phosphorous rich.
• Established lawns show little response to added phosphorus.
• Because phosphorus does not easily move in the soil, additional amounts are often beneficial during establishment of new turf.
• Only apply phosphorous if a soil test indicates a need.

Potassium

Potassium helps plants make strong stems and keep growing fast.

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• Potassium may need to be supplemented.
• Coarse-textured (sandy) soils often need added potassium.
• Use a soil test to determine when to add potassium.

Reading the Bag

The label on a bag of fertilizer includes an analysis of the concentration of nutrients. Each number in the analysis represents a percentage of the total weight of the product that is actual nutrient.

The first number indicates the amount of nitrogen, or N.

The second number is the amount of phosphorus in the form of phosphate, P2O5.

The third number is the amount of potassium in the form of potash, K2O.

For instance:

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A 35 lb. bag of 10-10-10 fertilizer will contain:

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NITROGEN = 3.5 lbs or 10% of the total weight of the bag

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PHOSPHOROUS = 3.5 lbs or 10% of the total weight of the bag

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POTASSIUM = 3.5 lbs or 10% of the total weight of the bag

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The remainder of the contents is inert ingredients.

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Or, in the case of a typical lawn fertilizer:

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A 50 lb. bag of 32-0-5 will contain the following:

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NITROGEN = 16 lbs

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PHOSPHOROUS – 0

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POTASSIUM = 2.5 lbs

Types of Fertilizers

• Natural fertilizers include: Milorganite, Ringer, Sustane, manure, grass clippings, phosphate rock, potash (source of potassium)

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• Manufactured fertilizers include: ammonium nitrate, urea, IBDU, sulfur-coated urea, urea formaldehyde, super-phosphate, triple super-phosphate

Whether natural or manufactured, the nutrients in fertilizer are generally not in a form the plant can use directly.

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• Only two forms of nitrogen are readily available to the plant: ammonium (NH4) and nitrate (NO3).

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• All nitrogen fertilizers must be broken down to these forms regardless of their source.

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• Some chemical changes and decomposition must occur before the plant takes up the nutrients.

Slow-Release

Natural organic fertilizers are typically slow release.

• They deliver nutrients over a period of time.
• Decomposition of the organic matter occurs slowly.

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Some of the manufactured fertilizers are also slow release.

• This group includes sulfur coated ureas, urea formaldehyde and IBDU.
• Microbial activity in the soil gradually breaks down the fertilizer.

Fast-Release

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Fast release fertilizers are rapidly converted to available nutrients.

• Examples include ammonium nitrate and urea.
• They are applied more frequently, at low rates

Fertilizer Burn

• "Burning" occurs when fertilizer is so concentrated around the roots that it essentially pulls water out of the plant.
• Burning most commonly occurs when a lawn is fertilized in hot weather or without being watered.
• To prevent burning of the lawn, always water after applying any fertilizer, unless the label recommends otherwise.

Pollution

All types of fertilizer can contribute to pollution, if used incorrectly.

• The leaching of nitrates may be of concern in areas of sandy soils when over-watering and over-fertilization occur, particularly with the use of fast-release forms.
• Excess phosphorus has also been involved in lake and stream pollution.

Pollution

Do not leave fertilizer and organic matter (lawn clippings, leaves) on sidewalks, driveways and gutters. These contribute substantially to nutrient runoff into lakes and streams.

Does Fertilizer Damage the Soil?

Some nitrogen fertilizers tend to reduce the pH of the soil and thatch slightly.

In Minnesota, and many other parts of the Midwest, pH tends to be rather high (above 7) along with high buffering capacity.

In a soil with high buffering capacity, it is very difficult to reduce the pH by means of fertilizers and other soil amendments.

Organic vs Manufactured

• Natural organic fertilizers have lower concentrations of nutrients than manufactured fertilizers.

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• More product needed for same result

Weed and Feed

• You should apply fertilizer as part of your regular lawn maintenance.
• Only use herbicides when specific weed problems occur.
• Fertilizers that include weed killers (i.e. herbicides) may not be the best choice for your lawn.

Weed and Feed

• The correct timing and post-application procedures are important for weed-and-feed products to be effective.
• Spot treating weeds may be more effective than using weed-and-feed over the entire lawn.
• Environmentally, applying fertilizers separately from weed killers is the best approach.

Weed and Feed

Avoid using pesticides as much as possible. Many pesticides affect the microbial and earthworm populations that are involved in decomposing the thatch layer.

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Use pesticides only when a pest problem has been clearly identified and the pesticide is necessary and known to be effective.

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Weed and Feed

CAUTION: Mention of a pesticide or use of a pesticide label is for educational purposes only. Always follow the pesticide label directions attached to the pesticide container you are using. Remember, the label is the law.

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Mowing for a Healthy Lawn

• Rotary Mowers
• Reel-type Mowers

Mowing for a Healthy Lawn

Height

• For a typical residential Midwest lawn, maintain a height of 3 inches or higher
• Remove no more than 1/3 of the leaf tissue when you mow
• Make sure your mower blades are sharp to give a clean cut and avoid browning out

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Mowing for a Healthy Lawn

• Increase mowing height during mid-summer

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• Change direction of mowing – prevents scalping, compaction and a “lay” to the grass

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• Pick up excess debris in spring and fall

Mowing for a Healthy Lawn

Leave your clippings on the lawn

• Decomposed clippings add the equivalent of one fertilizer application to your lawn each year.
• Decomposed clippings improve soil quality and minimize runoff.
• Leaving clippings on your lawn improves carbon sequestration.

Mowing for a Healthy Lawn

What causes thatch?

• Vigorous grass varieties
• Excessive nitrogen fertilization (especially in spring)
• Infrequent mowing (long clippings)
• Low soil oxygen levels (found in compacted or water logged soils)

Mowing for a Healthy Lawn

• If your clippings are too long, mulch by mowing several times or rake them off.

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• If you have used herbicides on your lawn, leave clippings after you mow – don’t use as mulch on other plants or add to compost.

Mowing for a Healthy Lawn

What time of the year should I stop mowing?

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• Continue mowing until the grass stops growing in the fall, generally around the end of October.

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• Maintaining grass height before winter can minimize diseases that occur when grass is too long over the winter.

Weeds

• We will look at the most common

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• Cultural Control

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• Chemical Control

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Dandelion

Cultural Control: Dig Taproot

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Chemical Control: Selective - Postemergence (Lawns) 2,4-D, 2,4-DP, MCPP, MCPA, dicamba, etc

Make sure that the products being used state on the product label that they are for lawn use.

Ground Ivy-Creeping Charlie

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Cultural: Hand Removal

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Chemical: Products containing Triclopyr

Crabgrass

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Cultural: Hand removal

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Chemical: Selective pre-emergents or post-emergents

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Quackgrass

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Cultural: Hand removal (very difficult)

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Chemical: Non-selective post-emergent (iffy)

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Critters

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Research

David Herrera

Allelopathy Research

Alderman Hall

QUESTIONS?