Water System Consists of 11 PEX Assemblies + 34 Pipes

​

​

1. Expansion Assy (1 cap + 1 pipe)
2. Water service entrance. vBOM.
3. 2nd floor tub (2 tees + 3 pipe) + water extension
4. Toilet 2 Assy (3 tees)
5. Shower trim 2 (2 dropears+ 2 pipe)
6. Shower trim 1 (2 dropears)
7. Toilet 1 + Vanity Supply assembly (2X, 3T, 1 reducer). 6B goes with module 1.
8. Bathroom 2 Vanity Supply (2 cap + 2 pipe)
9. Washer box assembly (2 cap + 2 pipe)
10. Water heater assy (1 cap 3 pipe?)
11. Water heater 2 assy (1 pipe, 4 fittings)

3

4

1

2

5

6

7

8

Both in same wall module?

9

10

6B

11

5 days to a few weeks industry standard

CAD

Expansion

Penetrations Added

​

Module 44 - from B14 to B19 (Living Room 1 light channel). CAD is here.

Notch this out + protector plate. Maybe add utility channel next time. Box B12.

To B21

B12

Bedroom 1: Notch + protector plate. See Master Bedroom Electrical.

Kitchen light closure, see Master Bedroom Electrical

B30

Module 41

B31

Between floor from B33 to 1st floor bath vent fan B38. See Core Utility Modules. Will require fan hole through exterior wall module 14.

Module 14

Exterior Penetration

First floor vent fan. See Core Utility Modules.

Water Distribution Sharkbite Fittings

​

Freeze-proof shutoff to hose bib

• Hot to shower

• Hose Bib

• First hot sink + toilet
• First cold sink + toilet

• [12] ½” caps

• To Washer

• Cold to sink + washer

• ½” tee

• Heater

• 2nd Cold

• 2nd cold

• 3 more, 2nd fl

• [3] ¾” caps

• ¾” Elbow for heater

Hot ource from 1st floor

• Tub+First Floor Cold

Water Source - System in 1 hr - Module i1

1. Minitank heater needs one.
2. Based on Water Supply vBOM:

Build:

• Cut and ream PEX stubs,
1. [4] 1” - __________3.5”
2. [2] 3/4” - __________3”
3. [1] 1/2” - ___________2.5”
• Connect 7 fittings
• Connect tank adapter to tank in vise with thread tape

To heater

2

1” Pressure

Reducer

$74

$14

1”x3/4”

3/4”

$12

1” Check Valve

$18

Sharkbite hose bib

2nd floor

Cold supply

$3.5

1”x3/4”

3/4”x1/2”

$19

1/2”-3/4”

$8

3/4”

$40

1” Check Valve

$11

1

2

3

4

5

6

1” gap

To heater

8” diameter

7

As Built Distances

Measurements:

1/2” conduit:

3/4” conduit:

Slip Coupler

3” conduit

Slip Coupler

4 ga ground

5’?

6 ga ground 7.5’?

PV Grounds

Album

g

Connections in row

Connection between rows

Maysville Build Showcases Modular Build Technique

Interior Module 1 Tolerancing and Installation

• Adjustable 1” back and forth - cut 5” hole in cavity so that toilet drain assembly can pivot slightly around toilet flange

Build Procedure:

1. Cut 5” hole for toilet and for 2nd sink drain
2. Insert and mount toilet flange only
3. Install 2nd floor toilet assembly, connecting to toilet flange and to Wall I1 PVC assembly.

2nd Floor Toilet Assembly

Hang main vent on PVC Strap (green). Red is boundary of PVC assembly.

• Assembly simply drops the tee into the stub from the foundation

All holes oversized to 5” for ease of fit

Pipe ends exactly at module

End at trap. +/- 1.5”

End with double fixture tee at top of module I1. +/- ¾”

End at tee at z=0 of Module I1.

Stub sticks out 3.5”

End at x=49.5 of module (1.5” slip into 3” pipe)

x

x

+/- 1.25”

Pipe should be half way up for mid point - or 6.5” in the cavity which is 13” from floor. But second floor?

Only outstanding question is this height so we don’t have to re-cut plumbing after rough-in

Procedure: measure exact stub height.

Ideally 4 OD Flange + 4” ID closet flange

7” +/- 2”

Finish Trim Staining Plan

Front Door

1x6 Select Tapered

Special walnut

4 WIndows

1x6 Select Ripped

Door to Garage

1x6 Select

Stairway Wall Trim

1x8 Select

Landing Trim

1x2 Select (+1x6 select not shown)

Closet Door Trim

1x6 Select

Bath Tub Trim

1x3 Red Oak

Laundry Closet Trim

2x2 Select

6 WIndows

1x6 Select Ripped

Door to Sun Deck

1x4 select

Hallway Trim

1x8 Select

Tub Trim

1x3 Red Oak

​

Floor 1

Floor 2

Plus:

1. 1x2 ext (treated), garage
2. 1x6 int Garage Door. Select.
3. 1x4 baseboard, garage. Select.
4. Back of house 1x10 (dingleberry)
5. Stair treads + risers

Ceiling Closures

(Inc. kitchen + bath + interior stair wall))

Window Boxes

(Treated)

(Jarrah Brown)

Front Deck

(Treated)

1

2

3

5

4

6

7

8

12

13

15

14

9

10

11

Wire Routing - Wire Map - Wire Layout - NEC 2017

SH 4

​

W/D

DW

Ref

Bedrooms: not shown

Living Room

3 pairs + 1 single wire. Single must be 10/3 (no stacking)

Keep staple order consistent at door, start at top and work down as 4 pairs, with induction being the sole single line.:

Fridge (M)

Induction

Living

Washers (M)

SA (M)

Bathrooms

Heater/Lights

Bedroom and Heat Pump do not go over the front door.

Spacing: from 1” to 3.5” from framing edge for ute chan around door (4” from frame to channel interior.

7 Living 12/2

5 Bathrooms 20A 12/2

8 Heat Pump 30A 10/2

2 Induction 10/3

9 Bedrooms 20A 12/2+14/2

4 Dishwasher 20A 12/3

3 SA 12/3

SA 2

Washer

1 Extra Kitchen 15A

Refrigerator 15A

AFCI

AFCI

AFCI

AFCI

AFCI

AFCI

AFCI

AFCI

standard

standard

AFCI

Kitch. Lights 15A

6 Minitank 20A 12/3

Heater 2 6/2

standard

• Use 2 20A breakers instead of a 240v breaker
• Is 12/2/2 interchangeable with 12/3?
• One uses 2 breakers, 12/3 uses single double pole breaker

Add closet light with pullcord

Garage 12/2

Vent hood on B circuit? as kitchen lights.

Balance multiwires.

AFCI

Garage GFCI circuit goes around door to garage - eliminates need to go over front door?

Not to scale: this shows SH2 Floorplan, but electrical concept is for SH4

GFCI at box

GFCI at box

GFCI at box

GFCI at box

No GFCI

Note that a multiwire circuit appears to consist of 2 dedicated circuits, so fridge appears to be ok on a multiwire circuit.

Take SA multiwire and feed 240v of it to stove

GFCI at box

GFCI at box

GFCI at box

GFCI at box

100A Subpanel

30A PV

GFCI/AFCI table

[2] 30A PoN Breaker - 240V - $20

20A -240V - AFCI - $86

Apertures

​

General:

1. List all types of apertures.
2. Add at the framing + blocking level

Tub - water - vent

Hose Bib

Utility Wall Interface Design

​

g

Picture link

​

Module 1 Water

1. To cold inlet of water heater
2. From street
3. To bib
4. Cold to second floor
5. Cold to house
6. Expansion tank.
7. Hot to shower
8. Shower handles

​

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

Module 2 Water

• Kitchen/Toilet Cross Hot
• Kitchen/Toilet Cross Cold
• Bath 1 Cold
• Bath 1 Hot
• Hot to both floors (tee)
• Heater pan overflow drain
• Heater pan overflow source
• Cold to washer
• Hot to washer
• Cold inlet of water heater

​

9

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

24 lb*7=168

1.5 2x8 equiv blocking (3 2x4s)= 33 lb

​

200 lb total in full (same as French door).

Can reduce this by web cutouts and 2x3s

​

21 pcs of 2x4 - 14”

​

[3] 2x4

​

End at tee, connect later

​

End at tee, connect later

​

Curl tube in module 2. Only tube which is coiled.

​

End at tee, connect later

​

18

Curl tube in module 2

Curl tubes in module 2

Leave inside for transport

​

Do not connect 4 stubs for transport

​

Do not connect 2 stubs for transport

​

Module 1 Electrical

19. Connect SA from main wiring point

19

PV System With Separate Auxiliary Water Heater

Fused PV combiner 500V max + DC breakers + lightning protection

Sungold 6kW Inverter + Manual. Has islanding protection.

30A AC Breaker

360 VDC

100A Transfer Switch

​

Ground Rod

System Design Modes:

• Normal day/eve - all solar. Can switch off water heater and have 3kW for cooking etc. Can do just about everything that is needed to function normally as any other eco. Main trigger: on/off of minitank water heater. When deactivated, allows for just about normal operation. Allows for 2 of 4 stove burners on at the same time, and 3 if AC is turned off.
• Normal night - all through inverter.
• Grid Only Mode - allows for 100A of grid power to house in addition to the 60A aux heater, which has power available at any time.. any time the grid is available - to run higher power loads. Such as a welder, large air compressor, or other power hungry tools/appliances.

​

​

Junction Box 200A

(150A min)

Meter Base

100A AC Breaker

Entire Rough Plumbings Consists of 14 PVC Subassemblies, Prepared in 2-4 Hours from Detail Blueprints

Actual time: 48 glue joints in ___ minutes

​

• Floor 1 shower
• Module 1 main bottom
• Module 1 main top
• Toilet
• Main Drain (foundation rough)
• Floor 1 Sinks (both)
• Vent Assembly
• Vent Termination
• Washer drain assembly
• Heater Drain
• Floor 2 shower
• Floor 2 sink final tee
• Floor 2 sink drain
• Heater P Relief + Drain Pan

4

1

2

3

5

6

7

10

11

9

12

13

14

8

Vanity 2 Rough

​

Washer

​

Main Stack

Shower 2

See as-built.

​

Vanity 2

Bath Sink 1 Finish

Toilet

​

Kitchen Finish

​

Kitchen

Rough

Main vent

2”

2” log elbow

2”

2”

2”

2”

2”

2-2-1.5”

1.5-1”

1”

1”

1”

3-1.5”

3”

1.5”

1.5”

1.5”

1.5”

1.5”

2-1.5”

2”

2”

Cap

2”

2-2-1.5”

2”

1.5”

1.5”

Cap

4-3” closet

3” long el

1-½” out, 1-½” or 1-¼” in

2-2-1.5”

1.5”

2”

Cap

2”

3” pipe

3-3-2”

3-3-2”

3-2”

3”

3”

3”

3”

3”

vBOM: Routing of PV to Inside of House

• Metallic conduit is required indoors
• PV wire or THWN-2 is wet or dry 90C, whereas THHN is 90C dry. Roof wire can be UF.
• If using LFNC, wires are derated to their 60C rating
• LFNC should not be used on roof.
• Southwire LFMC - 80C. LFMC - rated 150C in dry, 70C in wet location
• Southwire LFNC - 80C, UV ok
• ½” – bend radius of 6.5”
• UF is $2.5/ft for 10 ga
• THHN 10 ga is 56 cents per strand or 60 red
• THHN is 30 cents locally

68

48

67

Conduit body or bend

LFMC

LFMC

3 wire total with 10 ga ground (30A)

1

4 wire, surface mount

4 wire, surface mount

Penetrates Inside wall

DC In disco enters box from Inside wall

240 feed to inverter. Note side knockouts are 1.5”, which allows 2 4/0 wires. Do we go in the bottom knockouts then?

Square D QO 30AQO2L30SCP30A interior disconnect for usability. Tech draw.

40A?

Homeline

Tech draw

30A standard

AC In disco

DC Disco

6 ga exposed on roof for grounding frames

Roof pic

x2

x2

x2

Cabinet Procedure

​

g

Block 1 - 8’ stock

1. Cut off bevel end of block.
2. Cut front beveled side of block. Front will match other piece - needs to be cut flat and not factory bevel.
3. Notch block. Do this before fitting for sink hole, as sink hole must be centered between cabinets.
4. Cut sink hole with forstner bit, then circular saw, then jig saw. Jig saw can do only 1” deep.
5. Cut faucet hole and prefit sink.

Block 2 - 4’ long stock

• Cut second block - first trim off 14”x14.25”
• Mark straight line from first block, cut.
• Attach sink. Fit sink from back side and attach with 1x6 cleats and 2x8 T frame. Fit sink, into assembly, and dry fit into cabinets.
• Remove sink from underneath.
• Attach 1x8 between block 1-2, including 3” side screws. Match edged, mark alignment.
• Remove the side screws, and slit the 1x8
• Attach blocks with glue, screwing the removed screws back in to pinch blocks back together
• Screw the front together
• Screw block to corner brackers of cabinets (12 brackets total for 3 cabinets)

​

14”

14.25”

5

1

8

7

6

3

4

2

Block Piece 2

Attachment 1x8

10

Slit

11

12

13

14

Electrical - Build Notes

​

1. Tape up the canopy light gasket. Prior to hanging. Once hung, working upside down at height is much more difficult. This gasket falls out with gravity, must be taped.
2. Ferrules - Canopy light connection should use ferrules - wires are too small.
3. Grommet - tape the grommet and wire to light - grommet is quite loose.
4. Simple-to-insert wires - Wago works on this, but the Decora Edge does not allow 14 and 12 gauge wire to be inserted in adjacent slots. For this, a ferrule is needed.
5. Use a programming jig for kinetic switch. Premap all kinetic switches. When in pairing mode - you can click on 2 clickers to pair 2 clickers to one controller in one shot.
6. Prepare pigtails - Leviton Decora Edge and others - prepare pigtails, either 3 or 5-slot for any continuing circuit. Need 3 and 4 slot, but 4 slot does not exist.
7. Butyl tape - waterproof addition to vinyl for exterior GFCI boxes. Leave bottom knockout loose so water can drain. Drill weepholes in bottom plug. Only way to do this right is a threaded nipple through wall for water tight connection on back. No way to fix this if this is not set up at the rough-in stage. Cover with vinyl siding, drill hole through siding after installing siding. Angle pvc down slightly so water doesn’t go inside house.
8. Old work lever failure - this failed because horizontal blocking was in the way. Good solution is brad nails, but they can break the box if no backing exists.
9. Box Straightness - boxes may be slightly slanted, because elongated device mount screw on the device itself allows for such minor adjustment
10. Heat Loss - insulate around edge if needed. Make a neat cutout to leave insulation intact as much as possible.
11. Use combination plate - No, these are 3x as expensive. Use a double decora plate with blank insert. This saves on Distinct Part Count.

​

g

Module Map

amazon

screwless

1

2

3

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

8

10

11

Final PV Hookup

​

​

Inverter

​

​

DC Feed

270V/27A

​

​

AC Feed

240V/30A

​

​

Notes:

1. Ground runs from DC disconnect through inverter. There is no DC ground bus on inverter. AC is terminal has ground.
2. PV panel connectors are not MC4
3. DC Disconnect Ground Fault protection: in case of ground fault, ground reference of - DC is broken and inverter turns off. We can test tnis by removing the 1A ground fault protection fuse (simulates a ground fault)

​

​

Transfer Switch

g

MC4

PV

-DC

Ground reference of -DC is broken when fuse pops in case of ground fault.

Double Door (French Door) Install

SH2 door dimensions. SH2 install-note flex pan is not shown. SH4 Door Dimensions.

Plain door, Menards.

1. Do Vycor on sill for the width of door, and go 6” up the sides. Peel as you go. Stick in on at the front, then fold down to subfloor.
2. Caulk and attach flashing corner
3. Tape the flashing corner with butyl tape.
4. Next is flexible flashing pan - Future Flash - ¾” behind door sill.
1. Use 2 beads of caulk under pan
2. This time start at subfloor, make a U in the door opening, fold down over foundation
3. Use 2 beads above, let water drain.
5. Do the flashing up the sides to the top of door. Note it does not go only on front face of house. Could use either Future Flash or Vycor?
• Vycor is $1/ft
• Future Flash is 62 cents/ft for 9”
6. Use flashing corners on top when installing door.
• Plumb (2 dir) and level and not twisted.
• For twist, guy calls it within cross sight - Use string test
7. Fold up flashing pan after attaching with sealant to back side of door, may use tape to hold
8. Finish with top flashing. But only if you have a nailing fin. We don’t - we have a canopy.
9. Fix astragal head pin

1

2

6

Synthesizing former docs.

​

3

4

Materials and Supplies:

• String
• Caulk + caulk gun
• 4 Flashing corners
• Vycor for base
• Future Flash for flex sill pan, ¾”
• Shims
• Level - 4’
• Stapler for string
• Door

Not. Paste like a dog gate across the front, then fold down.

Cabinets Detail

g

1

3

1. Install spacer for holding 1x12 board
2. Determine stud locations (13” + 29” from laundry)
3. Laundry wall has approximately 3” on RHS and LHS
4. Attach 1x12 using brad nails, every 4-6” as this will connect bottom and top cabinets together sructurally. Cabinet has no top or bottom - but 1x12 is inset ¾” from front.
5. Drill corresponding to stud locations (12” + 28”) and preattach 2.5” screws
6. Attach to premarked plumb + level marks. Use laser for verification.
7. Note current result has a 3/16” gap at bottom right of first mounted cabinet.
8. Clamp front face of ‘non-cabinet’. Do not release clamps if clamps are closing gaps - until bottom cabinet locks the front face
9. Nail front face with 2” brad nails from the top and bottom. Be careful about grain direction, which will curve nails along grain and potentially cause defects.
10. Attach 1x12 to top of bottom cabinet similar to 4. Pre-drill on stud locations in second cabinet mounts (top and bottom plywood), preinsert screws as in 5, attach to wall.

2

4

5

6

wall

level

7

8

Front face

9

9

10

• Brad nail front face to the edge of the 1x12s to bond first and second cabinet tightly to one another.
• Screw both cabinets to laundry wall according to 3 to immobilize cabinets

(Upside down)

11

Extending MC Cables

PV Combiner Submodule

(link)

​

​

g

Notes:

1. Screw through frame - double-wall side
2. Crimp MC4 wires to extend them

PV Grounding

6c

Masking for Paint 2

​

11

2

g

1. Fix 1st floor ceiling shiners. Hammer, brad, sand, caulk.
2. Do doors. 22” wide pretaped film, 3 sides
3. Windows - 48” wide from left to right
4. Do trim. Use 1” masking tape.
5. Do tub. 1” masking tape on 3 sides - on the edge.
6. Windows - 1” mask + pretaped cover. 2 step technique is faster than pretaped mask only.
7. Do electrical boxes. 2” masking tape. Double for double boxes.
8. Do laundry outlet. 3 strips of 2”, + 1” edging.
9. Vent fan - 1” mask on edge. Saran wrap. Don’t use saran, too sticky.
10. Laundry trim. 2”+2”+1” masking. Use 1” on edge, as it’s easier than 2”.
11. Take off showerhead
12. Go around body of heat pump interior unit
13. Razor cut mask around trim.
14. Mask landing.

1

2

3

4

5

6

1

7

8

9

10

12

13

14

14

Data Collection

g

Proper test is 2 orange lights on.

Incorrect - red light is on. No code exists for this, which happens with accidental wiring at 240. This case was miswired by using 12/2/2 wire and 2 hots, instead of wiring one neutral + 1 hot.

Possible Error codes - 240V is a missing error code

Dishwasher + washer is on 12/2/2

4” Hood vent Hole slants 1.5” to the left.

Metal new work box recessed and used as an old work box by mounting across stud right behind box. Everything was cut after BB was installed.

2 SA circuits are on 12/2/2

2nd Floor Vanity Outlets

​

​

Module Map

• First Floor: 3 Boxes - First floor Lights (B39 + B40) from Bedroom Circuit) + bath 1 GFCI (BG1).
• 2nd Floor: 4 boxes - CAD, Tech Draw

Tech drawing

CAD

B39

B40

BG1

Tech drawing

CAD

B42

B41

BG2

From framing

From sheathing

2x6

blocking

2x4 blocking

2x6

blocking

Verify mirror width, vanity height of 4.8” sits on top of cabinet.

5’5” height to vanity light center -

60-70” industry standard

Caps for Vacuum Test Cheatsheet

Existing shower overflow tube

1.5” slip stub

1.5” slip to PVC

1.5” PVC stub

17 PSI test cap

or regular cap

Connect Vacuum Gauge to heater drain overflow

Use 2” balloon for washer 40 PSI for 2”

1

Disconnect overflows from 2 tubs, cap it using assembly at right

2

Close cleanout with 4” balloon.

30 PSI for 4”- needs bike pump or valve extender

3

Close the 2 tub drains

1

2

4

Cap 2 sinks with 2” cap, third sink is vacuum suction

5

Cap stack vent with 3” cap

6

6

7

7

8

Use 4” cap assembly for toilet 2, caulking temporarily to PVC

4” PVC to 4-3 closet elbow

4-3 closet elbow

9

Use balloon or 4” cap for toilet 1, caulking temporarily to PVC

4

5

Notes: must suck out 2 tub traps and washer traps by closing off everything outside of upstream of traps.

​

Cap toilet 2 with plug and temp of caulk around temp 4”. No knockout, otherwise can’t do floor

​

​

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMvfKkiEu6mzAvTV2Xe3Gysl5c6hD0KfEV3DmT4

Water Pressure Test

1

Connect pressure gauge assembly to any stub. Note assembly can be used for testing with compressor or internal water.

2

Shut the air end off for city water test.

3

Check all caps, add other side of sink stubs + caps on Floor 1. Turn off showers and washer valves. Turn off hose bib inside and outside - and main water supply valve inside house.

​

Short circuit hot and cold of water heater connection for testing the hot side.

​

Turn on water in pit. Turn on main water valve inside house, listening for any leaks.

4

5

Turn on shower water, turn on washer water, turn on hose bib inside and outside - to test all

existing valves.

1

2

3

3B

6

Prior to insulating and closing off

utility wall, turn on water again to make sure everything is still tight (punctures,

loosened connections). Keep water on to make any damage transparent.

6

Plumbing Install

​

Start 1st fl drain at main tee. Extend 3” pipe to next module.

​

Install water service entrance assy. Locate with respect to 7” Wallo access panel. Ideally 24” from LHS, depending on main stack. Countertop trim ends at 39”, make bottom of access 3” above that - or 42” to bottom of Wallo. Sink starts at 36” from LHS.

​

Module Map

1

Make Kitchen Assembly according to 3-6-9 pattern in second set of modules, for 36” separation of sink drains. But - blocking is 2x6, water line as close to bottom of 2x6 as possible, so escutcheons don’t interfere with BB trim.

2

3

Install 2nd toilet plumbing assy. Key is 21”x61” vanity - toilet has min 15” space. 12” back from finished wall.

4

4

Install 2nd floor sink drain at 3-6-9 in the second set of utility wall modules

5

5

2”

3”

3-3-2”

3-3-2”

3-2”

2”

3

1

2ND Fl Sink

​

2”

2” long elbow

2”

2”

Kitchen

​

DfTF of Utility Wall PEX

(Design for Tolerancing + Design for Fiducials)

Concept: build the entire Utility Wall from a drawing w/o dimensions.

​

Module Map

​

1. Top frame of vent fan uses top plate as fiducial.
2. Fan middle is in middle of cavity 1-2, thus locating its right framing member. This framing member is shortened to allow screwdown of fan.
3. Fan box is framed as a fiducial for routing out fan compartment in the BB, finished freehand on one side (needs feel for cutting direction)
4. BB starts at 3/8” from wall to the right.
5. Fan on i1 to Exterior Wall - vent curves around framing, tolerance eliminated to +-1” in double wall cavity by using flexible vent pipe
6. Use template for bottom - with water-plumbing-water at 3-6-9 inches from left stud. This obtains from Long Turn Wye located with left edge exactly at left edge of wall i5.
7. Need to use 2x6 on i2 + i5 and not 2x4, as we cannot fit BB trim otherwise - so that water line is lower and its escutcheons don’t interfere with BB Trim. Drill water hole as close to bottom edge as possible. Pipe strap to framing so we don’t lose it.
8. Locate drain below 2x6 in step 7.
9. Stain trim for the under-sink cabinet (fast cf. paint)
10. Determine location of bathroom sink wye in middle of left cavity in Module i2. This determines length of PVC between wyes. Attach plumbing assy with pipe strap on i2.
11. To fit water and plumbing - mark 3-6-9 for water-drain for i5 using bottom of 2x6 as fiducial and starting the beadboard leading edge at 3/8” into the panel, ⅜” overlap of bottom plate. Drill 2” hole for water - giving us about ½” tolerance each way. Drill below the 2x6 for 2” PVC - max 4” hole works with escutcheon:

1

2

6

3

4

5

7

8

9

10

2”

3” pipe

3-3-2”

3-3-2”

3-2”

vBOM looking from i5

2x6

2x6

2x6

2x6

2x6

2x4

11

vBOM looking from i5

3.5” OD. Calc

1.5”

3.5” escutcheon covers 1.5” hole

5.625” OD

i5

i2

i2

10

11

Got 2 sink drains, 2 sink + toilet water supply

Hot from heater up stud

Showerhead Install + 12” Extension

​

Mark 15.6” + 1.6” from side and top of main shell

g

Module Map

1

Attach shower holder.

6

Mount dropear to eccentric

7

Assemble faucet, mount to a block

2

Hang shower stem from top to faucet

3

4

Mark holes - DfF f. head

5

Drill 1-3/4 inch

8

Remove faucet, send eccentrics through tub,

​

Mount escutcheons.

​

​

Hang stem + faucet from mount.

Attach faucet to eccentrics

9

10

Fit from tub side, fix from back side with 3 screws that suck in to make escutcheons tight

(Mount is a 1x4 with a shorter 1x4 inset)

1x4

1x4 inset

1:02 with old style head mount, new one should shave 5 min. Old style has 2 sigma issues.

Utility Wall Cheatsheet - i1

​

Dropear Assembly - use template for spacing, and mount dropears on a 31.5” block. Spacing is about 6” for ears.

Horiz framing above dropears

Right-Mid Stud Can’t interfere with

main vent

​

Outer Frame

Beadboard

Right Fan framing

Double Wye Pipe even with top of frame

Plumbing Stub - 4.5” tall - Mid of tee is as high as possible or 9”?

But under blocking

​

Hose bib at 36”

Expansion tank

in cabinet

Tub 30” to edge,

31.5” to flange.

Tub spacer sticks out ½” beyond flange

g

2

1

6

9

Module Map

2

4

5

Frame for tub flange.

Tub is 75-¾” to flange.

77-¼” with flange.

​

3

7

80” from tub bottom to shower head locates dropears

10

8

11

12

13

Utility Wall Build Overview

​

Build Water Supply Preassembly. Expansion Tank life is 5-10 years.

Install Water Expansion Assembly

Build 12 Plumbing Pre-assemblies. List: toilet 2 assy. Main stack. Etc.

Build 8 PEX Preassemblies

Install Main Vent

Frame interior modules. Move tubs into place, mark 2nd floor sill plate. 61.5” from framing. Wall now 8” wide. Sill plate still 2x4. No sill plate on 2nd floor.

Add all MEP

Close off beadboard, top and bottom. Include penetrations.

​

g

3

2

1

1

3

4

4

5

2

6

7

8

5

PV Combiner Submodule

​

2x4 mount block on edge

​

​

​

​

​

​

¾” mount plate

Combiner - view from top

Combiner Submodule Procedure:

1. Drill out ½” knockout in combiner, attach LFMC connector
2. Attach 9”x 9” by 3/4” treated plywood Mount Plate to the edge of a 12” treated 2x4, with [2] 3” deck screws half way in for attaching to 2x6 leg of PV panel
3. Attach combiner to mount plate using its tabs and 1” deck screws

Installation:

• Extend wires for 3 panels to reach combiner. PV Connectors. Howto video.
• Wire the combined power line (2 wires + ground) through LFMC to inside the house

2x3 Treated

PV runners

combiner

2x3 Treated

Mount

mount

0.6” Treated plywood

PV runners

Combiner - lying on its back

tab

tab

1” deck screws

1” deck screws

7.1”

7.1”

8.5”

combiner

Mount plate

2x4

Top view

5”

30A AC

out

6 ga ground

70A

PV Combiner to Power Center

Arrows show feed-through vs. connection, and cable vs wire

100A

manual

DC In Disconnect

(2 pole)

30A AC in

70A

30A

30A DC

Neutral Feed-Through, but spliced, hots to breaker. Has ground bar.

See Detail

6-10 ga splice

Requires 15A fuse

1.42” wide

1” wide

Solar String Detail

​

Notes:

1. PV was installed so that junction box is on the right hand side of panels (RHS) except for the 11 panels shown with L
2. 3 cable extenders need to be used (red lines)
3. Combiner box - mount it. Location determines digital length of conduit to roof band.

​

L

​

L

​

L

​

L

​

L

​

L

​

L

​

L

​

L

​

L

​

L

​

This string is connectable without wire extension

Combiner under panel

Verify 24” distance of panels to roof trim

Meter Base + Main Panel Cheatsheet

x2

x2

Steps:

1. Make meter base submodule. Dangle the ground wire..
2. Make main panel submodule
3. Make through-tube assembly
4. Mark blocking location at inside of Power Wall - 6 inner and 8 outer
1. Use measureless cutting jig to install blocking
5. Install blocking
6. Install Meter Base + Main Panel on the nipple
7. Install ground rod assemblies and clamp them

1

3”

5’

1/2”

70”

6 ga

• 3 knockouts
• 4 mount holes

2

NOT glued

glued

5.5”

2”

2”

3

• 3 knockouts
• 4 mount holes

2.75”

6”

1.5”

2.5”

1”

Add ground rod subassemblies (later for meter base, now for mains)

vBOM - Meter Base to Main Box

2

4 ga

100A

To transfer switch

Inside the house

Breakers go up to 125A

outside the house

Wall

38” stub of 4/0 after entering box

70”

6 ga

38” inside box here

50” inside box here

70” of 4/0

3” in

2” out

Heat Pump Scope of Work

Indoor unit 8” from ceiling

Downspout ends at bottom of disconnect

2.5x2.5 downspout

½” PVC drain to ground

Probe for disconnect from inside

3.5” hole with 3” PVC angled down to outside

(2-⅜” hole for 2” pvc?)

Blocking 2- 2x8

Blocking 2x6

Outdoor unit ~2’ from ground - easy to mount

1. Prepare blocking and apertures for 2 devices and prep the downspout including its top closure. 3.5” hole, ½” hole for heat pump disconnect. Note that heat pump plumbing aperture cannot be done at the Marking + Apertures step - save until beadboard is installed unless we install the beadboard in the heat pump area.
2. Prep Heat Pump Disconnect with 2 pigtails + fittings - one to subpanel, one to heat pump
3. Prep indoor unit - pigtail inside LFNC and connected, piping assy bundled and bent
4. Attach 2 mounts - indoor, outdoor
5. Attach 3 devices
6. Connect, Run Heat Pump + cleanup

Mount, use screws with washers

Flush PVC into wall, angled down

Fix PVC with screw so it doesn’t pop out

Connect inner electrical

Put Nylog on flare of eccentric flare. Also Nylog when connecting tubes, just on flare, not threads. Tube ⅛” past block.

Pumpdown to 300 micron shown

Close off top of downspout

3 wires 10 ga to pump;

Included wire to indoor unit

Switch needs no blocking

Bedroom Electrical Modules

Box 0 - Subpanel

Box B1 - Bedroom 1

• Use E for exterior notation and I for interior notation of modules
• Note you can extract wire length by summing pad lengths. If wires are drawn individually, then this can be automated: App.ActiveDocument.Pad001.Length + Pad002.Length + etc.

• Wire 1 - 12/2 147” to subpanel

​

​

• Looking from inside house

First wire staple here

131” 12/2 to B2

Module 27

Module Map

Bedrooms Map

Box type, CI, device, wall plate definition

B1

B8

B2

B5

B7

B31

B6

B20

B4

B3

B19

B9

B10

B11

B12

B13

B15

B18

B16

B17

B14

B21

B22

B23

B24

B27

B25

B26

B28

B29

B30

B32

B34

B36

B35

B33

B22-26 are high, then drop to 27

Duplex, 2 of 4 devices - 28 CI;

(double blank)

32.5 CI w/ 2 devices

​

Light 12CI

2nd Floor

Light 12CI

High 16 CI(2Dev)

18 CI- Feedthru

Low

U

14/2 20 ci

U on other side

14/2

Closest bay bottom

14/2 16ci. No clamps, 1 devices =14 ci.

Mid bay

16 ci

12/2

14/2

14/2

12/2

Closest bay top

14/2 16 ci, 14 ci if no internal clamp, 2 dev

Mid bay

14/2 16 ci

Mid bay

14/2 12 ci

Mid bay

12/2 18 ci

14/2

16 ci

12/2

12/2

2 smoke alarms

Light

14/2 from here

18 CI single

22.5 CI

combo

​

16 CI

Design Notes:

• Heavy light fixture box would require 16 ci if it had the remote inside. Thus, place remote in upstream box.
• Can consider excess wire to reduce box size.
• Need to use 1.5” flat box for outside lights - receiver doesn’t fit inside

20 CI

w/remote

22.5 CI

combo

​

14/2

16 CI

​

<1A for 2 fans

<1A for 2 lights

12CI

8CI

22.5 CI combo

All bedroom outlets 15A, but on 20A circuit. Retains about 900W at 100’ w/ 2% v drop. 5% drop is passable. Farthest point is 100’ for >1A loads

14/2 to light

12/2

14/2

to light

22.5 CI

Combo

12/2 feed, 14/2 onwards

They do have single at 24.5 ci but new work only

​

20 CI

w/remote

12/2 18CI

round

​

12/2 18CI

round

​

12/2 18CI

round

​

12/2 18CI

round

​

12/2 18CI

round

​

12/2 18CI

​

12/2 18CI

​

12/2 18CI

12/2 22.5CI

B37

B38

14/2-20 ci

B39-40

B41-B42

Vanity 2 - 2 device - 20 ci

Vanity 1 - 2 device 20 ci

K6*

B32B

Hood vent

Starts at subpanel going straight to 2nd floor

12/2

Plumbing Assy 6: Sinks

Kitchen Drain

Oversize bath sink to allow non-use of AAV if AHJ allows

Oversize kitchen sink to allow non-use of AAV if AHJ allows

Bath Drain

Sinks

​

Notes:

1. To be safe, make accommodation for AAV in tub + 3 sinks, as we have risers at each bc our utility channel is low

Instructions:

1. Install F

6

2”

3”

3”-1.5”

3”-2”

Power Hookup vBOM - Final

​

Use bell end as reducer is spigot (‘needs coupler’)

4’

Wire?

Subpanel Detail

Needs cap

Use plain end of elbow as reducer is female socket

3-2.5 male spigot-female socket

3” but it doesn’t fit

Double Sink Vanity

​

g

Notes:

• In reality, the Ideal design (initial design) probably works
• Actual Attempt comes short by a few inches.

Conclusions:

1. Yet another case for 3D printing for on-demand production

Double Fixture Tee. Not a double sanitary tee. 2” to 1.5”

2-1.5”

2”

2”

Ideal

Cap

2”

2”

Actual Attempt

Cap

2”

2”

Correction 2

Cap

1.5”

Next Iteration

2”

2”

Cap

1.5”

1.5”

1.5”

1.5”

1.5”

2”

2”

Correction 1

Cap

1.5”

1.5”

Lights

​

​

​

1. 4 vanity lights. Cheatsheet
2. Bathroom 1 light channel lights
3. Bathroom 2 ceiling light
4. 2 stairway/hallway lights. Double on both sides, 4 lights total.
5. Bedroom 3
6. Bedroom 2
7. Bedroom 1
8. Kitchen light channel light
9. Main living room light channel - also fan?
10. Second living room light channel
11. Garage interior
12. Closet light

​

​

g

Plumbing

4

4

5

7

6

9

1

10

2

11

12

Refrigerator Closet Shelves

g

Fridge Shelves:

1. Use 2 shelf levels, using 2 shelves of 12” and 16” width.
2. Use wide shelf in back so it has extra support point on back wall.
3. Stain.
4. Cut to width (about 3”). Use tape or track saw to not chip edges.
5. Use straight brackets with ¾” screws (just short enough to not poke out). Note straight bracket has 2 sides, use the countersunk side. Use 2 straight brackets to connect 2 shelves.
6. Use 4 screw brackets with ½” screws. 2 per edge, one at back - 5 total for rear shelf and 4 total for front shelf on the fridge.
7. Measure height so first shelf is 72.25” - to fit 6’ fridges.
8. Notch out for closet trim
9. Can use stair measurement jig to measure width of shelves. Cut down shelves to correct width.
10. Top shelf here needs double brackets, not single.

4

5

3

Water Heater Cabinet 3

​

g

Prewire Kitchen Cabinet

1. Water heater 1 - wiring involves 12/3 source to:
1. Heater hardwire
2. Outlet for LEDs
3. Continue to kitchen light
2. Water heater 2

​

Pre-plumb Kitchen Cabinet

1. Escutcheons
2. Source, sink, drain (pan)
3. Wires -
4. Fittings - 8
5. 4 valves
1. Source, bend down reduce, ½ valve
6. Wire nuts
7. Box covers

Escutcheons

Hard wired.

½”

3/4”? entry

Plumbing

¾”

x3

25 ci

¾”

Normal + Bypass

Inlet stub

To stub

Heater 2

Heater 1

Leaves the box

GFCI near water heater

Kitchen light

12 ga multiwire

Outlet is feed-through for water heater

Box ground