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Build Guide - Model 4: Landy 4x4 Hardtop

3D printed radio controlled

4WD scale model.

www.3dsets.com

3D Sets Facebook

1

Version 1.3.0, March, 2022

For BuildGuide for version 1.2.1 click here

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop – version 1.3.0 changelog

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Changelog:

  • “Model 4: Landy 4x4 Hardtop” v1.3.0, release date: March, 2022
    • New BeltDrive 4x4 - silent & reliable, because it uses timing belts. Designed for brushless motors only.
    • Front & Rear Axle - opened differential - now you can 3d print and build real differentials, which can be combined with locked axles too. You can make a specific setup that fits your needs.
    • New Cardan Joints - snap-on design without tiny screws gives smooth operation and reliability.
    • 3-link suspension - allows better kinematics and smoother movements of the body.

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop – version 1.3 technical specs.

  • Dimensions: 51.0 cm length, 24.5 cm width (including mirrors), 22.5 cm height
  • Model weights roughly 3,5 kg (including battery)
  • Permanent 4 wheel drive, all differentials are in the locked state
  • Remote- controlled steering and speed control
  • Suspension with real springs and dampers for good off-road capabilities
  • Reduction gearbox with 1:40 gear ratio for slow motion and high torque
  • Doors, hood, and trunk can be manually opened

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Before you start

  • Get ready all the tools.
  • Buy necessary parts that cannot be printed (screws, bearings, motor, etc.), these parts are listed on the next page.
  • Make sure that your printer is calibrated well – print our “calibration part” to ensure that you can fit bearings on shafts properly! Calibration part is located on “Print Plate 0”.
  • Use higher printing temperatures – use about 210-215°C for PLA to have firm layer adhesion!

  • The Build guide is divided on steps and subassemblies. The Subassembly is a sequence, where you will make some independent sub-part like gearbox, axles, etc. Later you will install subassembly in the car.

  • Model 3: Landy 4x4 includes 2 different wheel designs. Both designs share the same tire dimension, so feel free to choose the right design for you:

  • For “Wheel C”, print plates with “Wheel C” in name.

  • For “Wheel D”, print plates with “Wheel D” in name.

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Are you new to the Radio Controlled

models?

Don’t worry, Radio Controlled (RC) models are not as complicated as they can look! However, it’s a good to know some basics before you will start buying parts.

Most mechanical parts in our products will be 3d printed on your own printer, so we will focus here on RC electronics.

On-line beginners guides:

If you have any questions regarding our models, feel free to ask us (or other 3dsets

builders) on our Facebook discussion group, available here: Facebook – 3dsets

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop – version 1.3: What do you need?

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  • NEW! ➡︎ list of all required non-printed parts is here (will be continuously updated): click for non-printed parts spreadsheet
  • Print Filament: To print this model you will need around 3000 g of print filament in total. We print our models from PLA material. If you will use the geared gearbox with 540DC motor, you should use ASA/Prusament PC Blend filament for Motor Pulley, Motor Frame, as it has better temperature resistance. For the differential gears its recommended to use Prusament PC Blend. You can use variable color for chassis and body. Tested and recommended filament: Fillamentum PLA Extrafill or Prusament PLA.
  • Gearboxes choices (more info about gearboxes is on page 17):
    • BeltDrive 4x4 gearbox (recommended option):
  • Model is driven by brushless motor 3530 - size
  • Timing belts: HTD 144-3M-06 (HTD profile, 144 mm long, 3 mm teeth distance, 6 mm wide) – 4 pcs
  • All parts can be printed from PLA or other filaments
  • Geared Gearbox (older design):
  • Model is driven by 540 DC motor (27 T)
  • All gears and shaft are 3D printed. Don’t use PETG, ASA or ABS for gears!
  • Steering servo in standard size (39x19,5x38,5mm) – minimum torque: 10kg, optimum 20kg
  • Speed controller (ESC) max size 40x30x25mm
  • Ball Bearing 10x15x4 mm - 6700RS: 38 pcs. (or less depending on gearbox type and axles configuration)
  • Shock -Coil springs, inner diameter max 18mm, length 75-90mm: 4 pcs.
  • Rubber tires - Outer Diameter: 90-100mm, Inner Diameter: 46-48mm
  • 7.2V (2S) Battery with dimensions max 138x48x26mm
  • Electric connectors: 2 pairs (battery connectors, motor <–> ESC connectors)
  • Twin cable & soldering equipment
  • Clear Binding Covers, or any transparent foil up to 0,5 mm thick – material for “Glass”.
  • Grease and Thread Locker for securing fasteners on moving parts

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop – version 1.3: Required hardware

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Screws and nuts (in metric size):

  • M2x6: 115 pcs. with differential: - 28 pcs.
  • M2x8: 6 pcs.
  • M2x10: 25 pcs. with wheels C: + 20 pcs. , with differential: + 36 pcs.
  • M2x12: 2 pcs.
  • M2x14: 6 pcs.
  • M2x16: 3 pcs.
  • M3x6: 3 pcs.
  • M3x8: 15 pcs.
  • M3x10: 62 pcs.
  • M3x12: 34 pcs
  • M3x16: 43 pcs.
  • M3x20: 7 pcs.
  • M3x25: 12 pcs.
  • M3 nuts: 42 pcs.
  • M3 locknuts: 22 pcs.
  • M3x6 Set Screw : 2 pcs.
  • M3x6 Socket(!) Head : 2 pcs.
  • M3x8 Socket(!) Head : 0 pcs. with wheels D: + 20 pcs.

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Check 3d printer calibration!

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Please at first test whether the bearing can be inserted into the calibration part. If you have problems or the bearing fits too loose, please make sure that the printer is properly calibrated. Dimensions of the printed parts should match dimensions of the 3d model.

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop – chassis

In this 3 - step procedure you will assemble chassis of the car and front panel.

Required print plates:

  • Print 1 - Chassis 1”
  • Print 2 - Chassis 2”
  • “Print 3 - Chassis 3”

Non-printed parts:

  • Screw M3x10: 20 pcs.
  • Screw M3x12: 16 pcs.
  • M3 locknuts: 4 pcs.

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop: Chassis - step 1-2/3

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2x M3x10

3x M3x12

3x M3x12

10x M3x10

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop: Chassis - step 3/3

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3x M3x10

1x M3x12

5x M3x10

4x M3x12

1x M3x12

4x M3 locknut

Correct servo mount position.

Track Bar mount – there are 3 different sizes, choose one depending on your shocks size (for longer shock use bigger Track Bar mount). Proper orientation: shorter end is facing forward!

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop – body

In this step procedure you will assemble chassis of the car and front panel.

Required print plates:

  • “Print 5 - body 1”
  • “Print 6 - body 2”
  • “Print 7 - body 3”
  • “Print 8 - tail light” ( you can print with filament color change)

Non-printed parts:

  • Screw M2x6: 11 pcs.
  • Screw M3x6: 1 pcs.
  • Screw M3x10: 8 pcs.
  • Screw M3x20: 2 pcs.

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop: Fender grill

If you will print the part “Fender Grill” from the .stl file instead of printing from provided gcode, please use following slicer setup:

  • No top infill (0 top layers)
  • Infill density: 50%
  • Infill type: grid

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Bodywork – postprocessing

Before you start building Bodywork, carefully remove printing supports (marked red) integrated into specific parts rendered below. You can use pliers and a sharp knife to make the procedure easier. Be very careful as you can harm yourself!

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supports marked in red has to be removed

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop: Body

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In next step you will assemble body panels and attach the door hinges. Please note that door hinges must be placed in correct orientation (they are NOT symmetrical). See picture below showing the correct orientation of the hinge.

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop: Body - step 1/1

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8x M3x10

11x M2x6

7x Ø2mm

2x M3x20

1x M3x6

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Landy 4x4 – Gearbox choice

There are two different gearboxes available for Landy 4x4:

new BeltDrive 4x4

classic Geared Gearbox

New BeltDrive 4x4 features:

  • silent running
  • brushless 3530 motor compatible
  • requires timing belts HTD 144-3M-06
  • easy to print
  • 2S-3S battery compatible
  • slightly faster than geared gearbox
  • can be printed from various filaments

New BeltDrive 4x4 is recommended choice. It can handle more power (up to 3S battery) and is very silent. It is compatible with all 3D Sets 4x4 models.

For BeltDrive 4x4, proceed to next page (18).

Classic Geared Gearbox features:

  • noisier than BeltDrive4x4
  • 540-size DC 27T motor compatible
  • uses 3D printed gears
  • requires more 3D printing experience
  • 2S battery compatible
  • slower than BeltDrive 4x4 gearbox
  • requires high-quality PLA or high-strength filament (PC Blend, Nylon..)

Classic Geared Gearbox is good choice if you have previous experience with and if you require 540 DC 27T motor and maximum precision of throttle response.

For Geared Gearbox, proceed to page 34.

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BeltDrive 4x4 Gearbox

Required print plates:

  • “Print 9A - Belt Drive Gearbox - 1”
  • “Print 10A - Belt Drive Gearbox - 2”
  • “Print 11 - Shafts”

Non-printed parts:

  • Screw M3x6: 3 pcs.
  • Screw M3x8: 9 pcs.
  • Screw M3x10: 2 pcs.
  • Screw M3x12: 8 pcs.
  • Screw M3x16: 8 pcs.
  • Screw M3x25: 6 pcs.
  • M3 nuts: 22 pcs.
  • Electric motor: 1 pc.
  • Bearings: 10 pcs.
  • Timing Belt: 4 pcs.

In this 8-step procedure you will assemble belted gearbox with the motor. The whole gearbox can be printed from PLA, unless you will drive in some extreme conditions or in very hot environment. To complete this task, get the following parts ready:

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Shafts

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If you will print the part “Shafts” from the .stl file instead of printing from provided gcode, please use following slicer setup:

  • Infill density: 100%
  • Infill type: Rectilinear
  • Perimeters: 3

correct printing bed orientation of the Drive Shaft - Cardan and Front Wheel Shaft – marked part MUST LAY FLAT on the bed!

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Postprocessing – removing supports

Before you start building, carefully remove printing supports (marked red) integrated to specific parts rendered below. You can use pliers and sharp knife to make the procedure easier. Be very careful as you can harm yourself!

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supports marked in red has to be removed

Be careful – do not damage the “ball” part!

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Postprocessing – drilling holes

Please carefully drill through the marked holes that have not been printed through to make printing easier.

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19xØ3mm

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BeltDrive 4x4 Gearbox – introduction

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BeltDrive 4x4 Gearbox uses 4 identical timing belts – HTD 144-3M-06 (HTD profile, 144 mm long, 3 mm teeth distance, 6 mm wide).

BeltDrive 4x4 Gearbox is compatible with all 4x4 3D Sets models, so you can use it in your older Rancher/Landy without any modifications.. With this gearbox model is moving faster and has more power. Gearbox is very silent and reliable when assembled properly. Gearbox work with brushless outrunner 750-1000 kV and 2S-3S battery.

Internal belts/pulley configuration is shown below:

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Important features

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Bearings calibration

It is very important to check if small 3d printed shaft ends fit the bearings properly, because such small printed objects may shrink too much.

There are two sizes of the “Pulley Shaft small” parts (located on print “Belt Drive Gearbox - 2”):

S” = standard size; “L = larger size

Please try if the “S” sized part fits the bearing without any gap. The bearing must hold on place firmly, otherwise, the gearbox can be damaged! If there is any gap between the bearing and printed part, then use a slightly larger “L” sized part.

Service holes

BeltDrive 4x4 v1.1 features 3 service holes with covers. These holes have these purposes:

  • to help assembly of the gearbox; you can use the tip of the screwdriver to place belts in their position on the pulleys
  • allows you to check the internals of the gearbox without disassembling (heat, noises, wobbling, etc.)

Service holes are marked white on the picture below:

Is there any gap? Then use the “L” part!

Service holes

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BeltDrive 4x4 Gearbox – step 1/9

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2x

2x

4x M3x8

M3 nut

9x M3 nut

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BeltDrive 4x4 Gearbox – step 2/9

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2x M3x12

Double check that the pulleys are peripendicular to the shaft and do not wobble. Make sure there is NO CONTACT between the casing walls and the pulleys!

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BeltDrive 4x4 Gearbox – step 3/9

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2x

M3 nut

3x

3x M3x6

4x M3x16

Make sure that the Output Pulley assembly is symmetrical and do not wobble. If not, please clean the internal cavity in the pulley and tighten the screws properly.

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BeltDrive 4x4 Gearbox – step 4/9

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M3 nut

5x

M3x8

2x M3x25

For the easiest belt installation, first place the belt around the large pulley and then install the adjoining small pulley at the same time as the Box Front B.

Choose “S” or “L” marked part, more info on previous pages!

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BeltDrive 4x4 Gearbox – step 5/9

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2x

M3 nut

4x

4x M3x25

Make sure that the Pulley 5 is assembled correctly. You can use some force to push the Pulley Shaft small into the cavity.

Choose “S” or “L” marked part, more info on previous pages!

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BeltDrive 4x4 Gearbox – step 6/9

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M3x12

Use

screws

packed with

your motor!

M3x12

2x M3x16

Make sure that the Pulley 1 - Motor is assembled correctly. It should not wobble when mounted on the motor!

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BeltDrive 4x4 Gearbox – step 7/9

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4x M3x12

4x M3x8

It is very important to check proper motor position - there must be 0.5-1 mm clearance between the Pulley 1 - motor rim and the Box Front D! If these parts are too close together, you can adjust their position by underlaying the Motor Mount with washers to achieve the correct clearance.

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BeltDrive 4x4 Gearbox – 8/9

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2x M3x10

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BeltDrive 4x4 Gearbox – 9/9

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Apply grease to the spherical and conical surfaces before assembling!

push until click

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BeltDrive 4x4 Gearbox – finished

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Geared Gearbox

Required print plates:

  • “Print 9B - Geared Gearbox - 1”
  • “Print 10B - Geared Gearbox - 2”
  • “Print 11 - Shafts”

Non-printed parts:

  • Screw M3x10: 12 pcs.
  • Screw M3x25: 7 pcs.
  • M3 locknuts: 7 pcs.
  • M3 nuts: 10 pcs.
  • M3x6 setscrew: 2pcs.
  • Electric motor: 1 pc.
  • Bearings: 12 pcs.
  • Grease

In this 7-step procedure you will assemble the gearbox with the motor. To complete this task, get the following parts ready:

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Postprocessing – removing supports

Before you start building, carefully remove printing supports (marked red) integrated to specific parts rendered below. You can use pliers and sharp knife to make the procedure easier. Be very careful as you can harm yourself!

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supports marked in red has to be removed

Be careful – do not damage the “ball” part!

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Geared Gearbox – step 1/7

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Put the gears onto corresponding shafts. Pay attention to combine the parts correctly!

Correct configuration

of gears is shown above.

Recommended material for gears: Fillamentum PLA Extrafill, Prusament PLA. Any PET-G will be too fragile for gears.

Use higher printing temperatures, about 210-215°C for PLA!

Top material choice for gears is Prusament PC Blend.

It’s very strong yet easier to print than Nylon, which is suitable too.

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Geared Gearbox – step 2-3/7

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Put the bearings on each shaft end. If you printed and checked the “Test part” with a bearing successfully, bearings should fit smoothly.

Insert shafts into the right side of the gearbox housing. Then apply grease on the gear tooths.

10x

Important! – for best gearbox endurance, use a lot of grease, as the grease will disperse the heat through the gearbox.

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Geared Gearbox – step 4/7

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7x M3 locknut

7x M3x25

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Geared Gearbox – step 5/7

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Motor pinion – version A:

use this pinion if you are using “round head screws”

M3 nut

Recommended material for motor pinion: ABS or CPE, as the PLA can melt due the heat from the motor shaft and PET is too flexible (pinion will slip from the shaft).

M3 nut

Insert nuts into the holes in the motor pinion.

Motor pinion – version B:

use this pinion if you are using “socket head screws”

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Geared Gearbox – step 6-7/7

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Now mount the motor and bearings to their positions. Then install the motor pinion on motor shaft.

2x

2x M3x10

2x M3x6

8xØ3,2mm

8x M3x10

Recommended material for “Gearbox housing - front”: ABS, ASA, CPE or PET-G, as the PLA can melt due to the heat from the motor if you drive continuously or in warm weather. It is strongly recommended to install an optional motor heatsink, preferably active! Purchase links are here or use any similar heatsinks.

active heatsink

passive heatsink

Test the gearbox before mounting to the chassis!

You should be able to turn the gearbox output shaft by hand with some force (attach Cardan Joint Yoke to the output shaft). After that, you can connect a 3 - 7 V battery directly to the motor, it should run.

8x M3 nut

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Geared Gearbox – step 8/8

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1x M3x10

1x M3x10

Apply grease to the spherical and conical surfaces before assembling!

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop: gearbox installation

In this simple 1-step procedure you will install Gearbox in the center of the chassis.

Required non-printed parts:

  • Screw M3x12: 2 pcs.

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Landy 4x4 Pickup - step 1/1

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2x M3x12

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Subassembly #2 – Arms

In this 3-step procedure you will assemble axle arms, steering rods and trackbar. These parts consists of “arm” and “ball joints” and they need to be pressed together.

Required print plates:

  • “Print 0 - Calibration”
  • “Print 12 - “Chassis 4”

Non-printed parts:

  • Grease
  • Any Hammer or Vise (for pressing)

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Arms + Ball joints

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1x M3x6

Apply grease on Ball joint.

Press Ball joints in arms end. Pay attention to combine parts correctly! Ball joints require correct orientation on specific arms – check next page!

Option A: use a hammer

Be careful as you can break the arm if you use too much force!

Option B: use a Vise

This is a prefered method as you can proceed slowly.

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Arms + ball joints

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On the pictures below are rendered final Arms assemblies. Please note that some Arms requires opposite Ball joint orientation!

Blue marked Ball joint – upside down!

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Landy 4x4: – Arms installation

In this simple 2-step procedure you will install arms in the center of the chassis.

Required non-printed parts:

  • Screw M3x16: 8 pcs.
  • Screw M3x10: 4 pcs.
  • M3 locknuts: 8 pcs.

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Landy 4x4 - step 1-2/2

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6x M3x16

6x M3 locknut

4x M3x10

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop: Electronics and Seats

In this 4-step procedure, you will install all electronic equipment and cables. Then you will mount seats on their positions.

Required print plates:

  • “Print 13 - interior 1”
  • “Print 14 - interior 2 + body”
  • “Print 15 - interior 3”

Non-printed parts:

  • Screw M2x6: 11 pcs.
  • Screw M3x16: 4 pcs.
  • Screw M3x20: 4pcs.
  • RC Receiver
  • ESC (speed controller)
  • Cables
  • connectors

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop - step 1/1

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4x M2x6

2xM3x16

2xM3x16

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop - step 2-3/4

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5x M2x6

4x M3x20

2x M2x6

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop - step 4/4

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Twin cable length 280mm

Twin cable length min. 250mm

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Subassembly #3 – Windshield

In this 2-step procedure, you will assemble windshield. To complete this task, get ready all necessary parts:

Required print plates:

  • “Print 14 - Interior 2 + body”
  • “Print 19 - body 4”

Non-printed parts:

  • Screw M2x6: 6 pcs.
  • Screw M2x10: 4 pcs.
  • Screw M3x12: 2 pcs.
  • Clear Binding Covers, or any clear foil up to 0,4 mm thick

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Windshield – postprocessing

Before you start building Windshield, carefully remove printing supports (marked red) integrated to specific parts rendered below. You can use pliers and a sharp knife to make the procedure easier. Be very careful as you can harm yourself!

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supports marked in red has to be removed

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Windshield - step 1/3

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At first, you will make a “windscreen glass” from any transparent foil up to 0.4 mm thick. Thicker material is more durable than thinner, but we found that “Clear Binding Covers” are OK.

Place the Windscreen Inner Frame on the foil, sketch the Windscreen Glass to foil and then cut the Windscreen glass by scissors or sharp knife.

Sheet of transparent foil, max. 0.5 mm thick.

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Windshield - step 2/3

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6x M2x6

4x M2x10

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Windshield - step 3/3

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1x M3x12

1x M3x12

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Subassembly #4 – Dashboard

In this 2-step procedure, you will assemble dashboard. To complete this task, get ready all necessary parts:

Required print plates:

  • “Print 13 - interior 1”
  • “Print 14 - interior 2 + body”
  • “Print 15 - interior 3”

Non-printed parts:

  • Screw M2x6: 2 pcs
  • Screw M2x10: 4 pcs.
  • Screw M2x16: 3 pcs.
  • Screw M3x10: 1 pcs.
  • Screw M3x16: 2 pcs.

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop - Dashboard 1/2

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4x M2x10

1x M3x10

1x M2x16

2x M2x6

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop - Dashboard 2/2

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2xM3x16

2x M2x16

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop - Hood, Grill, Fender

In this 2-step procedure you will install the Hood, Fender, Grill with light and winker

Required print plates:

  • “Print 14 - interior 2 + body”
  • “Print 21 - front light”
  • “Print 22 - front winker” - you can print with change filament”
  • “Print 23 - body 6”
  • “Print 31 - fender flare”

Non-printed parts:

  • Screw M2x6: 27 pcs.
  • Screw M2x10: 2 pcs.

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop: Grill

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7x M2x6

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop: Fender & Hood

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2x8x M2x6

2x M2x6

2x M2x10

2x M2x6

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop - bumpers

In this 1-step procedure you will mount bumpers and rear door in place.

Required print plates:

  • “Print 30 - body 13 + Wheel C - wheel Hub”

Non-printed parts:

  • Screw M3x10: 6 pcs.
  • Screw M3x12: 4 pcs.
  • Screw M3x16: 2 pcs.

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop: Bumper

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4x M3x10

4x M3x12

2xM3x16

2x M3x10

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Landy 4x4 – Axles choice

There are two different axles available for Landy 4x4:

With new Opened Differential

With No Differential (locked)

New Opened Differential features:

  • Medium print and assemble difficulty
  • Excellent for indoor driving and exterior hard surfaces
  • Excellent maneuverability and small turning radius
  • Low drivetrain/gearbox stress

Classic No Differential features:

  • Easier to print and assemble
  • Excellent for heavy terrain driving
  • Not recommended for hard surfaces (interior floors etc.) – using locked differentials on both axles results in high stress on drivetrain/gearbox parts.

Both types of axles can be combined to achieve optimum performance:

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Front Opened Diff.

Ideal for interior driving or normal use on the yard

Rear Opened Diff.

Front No Diff.

Ideal for heavy terrain. Not for hard surfaces.

Rear No Diff.

Front Opened Diff.

Recommended setup – good on all surfaces

Rear No Diff.

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Front Axle

For Front Axle with Opened Differential, proceed to next page (68).

For Front Axle with No Differential, proceed to page 74.

On the previous slide, you chose your preferred Axles configuration. Let’s start with Front Axle first:

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Front Axle - with Differential

In this 6-step procedure you will assemble the front axle. The axle includes a open differential, driveshaft and complete steering assembly.

Required print plates:

  • “Print 11 - Shafts”
  • “Print 32B - Differential Axe - 1”
  • “Print 33B - Differential Axe - 2” - print from PLA or PC Blend

Non-printed parts:

  • Screw M2x10: 18 pcs.
  • Screw M3x8: 3 pcs.
  • Screw M3x10: 10 pcs.
  • Screw M3x16: 2 pcs.
  • Screw M3x25: 1 pcs.
  • Nut M3: 4 pcs.
  • Locknut M3: 2 pcs.
  • Bearing: 15 pcs.
  • Grease

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Axles – postprocessing

Before you start building Axles, carefully remove printing supports (marked red) integrated to specific parts rendered below. You can use pliers and sharp knife to make the procedure easier. Be very careful as you can harm yourself!

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supports marked in red has to be removed

cut through marked area

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Front Axle (with differential) – step 1/6

2x M3x10

Open differential – section view:

Use screw ISO 7380 or screw with max height head 2mm!

It is recommended to print these specific parts from high-strength material like Prusament PC Blend: specifically the Axle Gears and Differential Pinions. Do not use ABS or PETG for gears, as they are weaker even then PLA!

Prusament PC Blend

6x M2x10

3x M3x8

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Apply grease on gear tooths.

Use screw ISO 7380 or screw with max height head 2mm!

Prusament PC Blend

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Front Axle (with differential) – step 2-3/6

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1x M3x10

5x M2x10

7x M2x10

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Front Axle (with differential) – step 4/6

1x M3x10

1x M3x10

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Front Axle (with differential) – step 5/6

2x M3x10

4x M3 nut

2x M3x10

1x M3x10

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Front Axle (with differential) – step 6/6

1x M3 locknut

1x M3 locknut

1x M3x16

1x M3x25

1x M3x16

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Subassembly #3 – Front axle

In this 10-step procedure you will assemble the front axle. The axle includes a locked differential, driveshaft and complete steering assembly.

Required print plates:

  • “Print 11 - Shafts”
  • “Print 32A - Locked Axle - 1”
  • “Print 33A - Locked Axle - 2”

Non-printed parts:

  • Screw M2x6: 14 pcs.
  • Screw M3x10: 9 pcs.
  • Screw N3x12: 1 pcs.
  • Screw M3x16: 2 pcs.
  • Screw M3x25: 1 pcs.
  • Nut M3: 4 pcs.
  • Locknut M3: 2 pcs.
  • Bearing: 10 pcs.
  • Grease

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Axles – postprocessing

Before you start building Axles, carefully remove printing supports (marked red) integrated to specific parts rendered below. You can use pliers and sharp knife to make the procedure easier. Be very careful as you can harm yourself!

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supports marked in red has to be removed

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Front axle – step 1-2/8

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1x M3x10

Apply grease on gear tooths.

7x M2x6

1x M3x10

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Front axle – step 3-4/8

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1x M3x10

1x M3x10

7x M2x6

1x M3x10

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Front axle – step 5-6/8

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4x M3x10

M3 locknut

M3 locknut

1x M3x16

1x M3x25

4x M3 nut

1x M3x12

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Front axle – step 7-8/8

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1x M3x16

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Rear Axle

For Rear Axle with No Differential, proceed to page 85.

For Rear Axle with Opened Differential, proceed to next page (81).

On the slide 66, you chose your preferred Axles configuration. Continue with the Rear Axle:

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Rear Axle with Differential

In this 4-step procedure you will assemble the rear axle. The axle includes a open differential and driveshaft.

Required print plates:

  • “Print 11 - Shafts”
  • “Print 32B - Differential Axe - 1”
  • “Print 33B - Differential Axe - 2” - print from PLA or PC Blend

Non-printed parts:

  • Screw M2x10: 18 pcs.
  • Screw M3x8: 3 pcs.
  • Screw M3x10: 4 pcs.
  • Screw M3x16: 1 pcs.
  • Bearings: 11 pcs.
  • Grease
  • Thread Locker

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Axles – postprocessing

Before you start building Axles, carefully remove printing supports (marked red) integrated to specific parts rendered below. You can use pliers and sharp knife to make the procedure easier. Be very careful as you can harm yourself!

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supports marked in red has to be removed

cut through marked area

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Rear Axle (with differential) – step 1/4

It is recommended to print these specific parts from high-strength material like Prusament PC Blend: specifically the Axle Gears and Differential Pinions. Do not use ABS or PETG for gears, as they are weaker even then PLA!

Prusament PC Blend

6x M2x10

3x M3x8

Prusament PC Blend

2x M3x10

Open differential – section view:

Use screw ISO 7380 or screw with max height head 2mm!

Apply grease on gear tooths.

Use screw ISO 7380 or screw with max height head 2mm!

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Rear Axle (with differential) – step 2-3/4

1x M3x10

5x M2x10

7x M2x10

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Rear Axle (with differential) – step 4/4

1x M3x10

1x M3x16

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Subassembly #2 – Rear axle

In this 6-step procedure you will assemble the rear axle. The axle includes a locked differential and driveshaft.

Required print plates:

  • “Print 11 - Shafts”
  • “Print 32A - Locked Axle - 1”
  • “Print 33A - Locked Axle - 2”

Non-printed parts:

  • Screw M2x6: 14 pcs.
  • Screw M3x10: 3 pcs.
  • Screw M3x12: 1 pcs.
  • Screw M3x16: 1 pcs.
  • Bearings: 6 pcs.
  • Grease
  • Thread Locker

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Axles – postprocessing

Before you start building Axles, carefully remove printing supports (marked red) integrated to specific parts rendered below. You can use pliers and sharp knife to make the procedure easier. Be very careful as you can harm yourself!

88

supports marked in red has to be removed

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Rear axle – step 1-2/4

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1x M3x10

4x

Recommended material for differential gears & cardan joints: PLA, as it is rigid enough for this purpose.

Apply grease on gear tooths.

1x M3x10

7x M2x6

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Rear axle – step 3-4/4

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1x M3x10

7x M2x6

1x M3x16

1x M3x12

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop – axles & rear seats

In this 1-step procedure, you will assemble bodywork of the car and then you’ll install axles, that you have finished from previous steps.

Front Axle subassemblies

Rear Axle subassemblies

Required print plates:

  • “Print 17 - interior 5”

Non-printed parts:

  • Screw M3x12: 2 pcs.
  • Screw M3x16: 16 pcs.
  • Screw M3x20: 1 pcs.
  • Locknut M3: 1 pcs.
  • Shock absorber: 4pcs

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop: axles & rear seats

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16xM3x16

1x M3 locknut

1x M3x20

2x M3x10

2x M3x12

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Subassembly #7 – Hardtop

In this 8-step procedure you will assemble hardtop and rear door. To complete this task, get ready all necessary parts:

Required print plates:

  • “Print 18 - interior 6”
  • “Print 20 - body 5”
  • “Print 25 - body 8”
  • “Print 26 - body 9”
  • “Print 27 - body 10”
  • “Print 28 - body 11”
  • “Print 29 - body 12”

Non-printed parts:

  • Screw M2x6: 14 pcs.
  • Screw M2x8: 6 pcs.
  • Screw M2x10: 6 pcs.

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Hardtop – postprocessing

Before you start building Hardtop, carefully remove printing supports (marked red) integrated to specific parts rendered below. You can use pliers and a sharp knife to make the procedure easier. Be very careful as you can harm yourself!

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supports marked in red has to be removed

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop: Hardtop step 1/8

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At first, you will make a “door glass” from any transparent foil up to 0.4 mm thick. Thicker material is more durable than thinner, but we found that “Clear Binding Covers” are OK.

Place the Door Glass on the foil, sketch the Hardtop Roof Glass, Hardtop Rear Glass, Hardtop Side Glass, Hardtop Rear Door Glass to foil and then cut the Hardtop Roof Glass, Hardtop Rear Glass, Hardtop Side Glass Hardtop Rear Door Glass by scissors or sharp knife.

Sheet of transparent foil, max. 0.5 mm thick.

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop: Hardtop step 2/8

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4x M2x6

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop: Hardtop step 2/8

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3x M2x6

2x Ø2mm

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop: Hardtop step 4-5/8

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6x M2x6

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop: Hardtop 6/8

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1x M2x6

2x M2x10

6x M2x8

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop: Hardtop 7-8/8

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2x M2x10

2x M2x10

4x M2x6

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Subassembly #8 – Door

In this 3-step procedure you will assemble doors. To complete this task, get ready all necessary parts:

Required print plates:

  • “Print 14 - interior 2 + body 5”
  • “Print 16 - interior 4”
  • “Print 24 - body 7”

Non-printed parts:

  • Screw M2x6: 5 pcs.
  • Screw M2x10: 9 pcs.
  • Screw M2x12: 2 pcs.
  • Screw M2x 14: 6 pcs.

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Doors – postprocessing

Before you start building Door subassembly, carefully remove printing supports (marked red) integrated to specific parts rendered below. You can use pliers and sharp knife to make the procedure easier. Be very careful as you can harm yourself!

102

supports marked in red has to be removed

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop: Door - step 1/3

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At first, you will make a “door glass” from any transparent foil up to 0.4 mm thick. Thicker material is more durable than thinner, but we found that “Clear Binding Covers” are OK.

Place the Door Glass on the foil, sketch the Door Glass to foil and then cut the Door glass by scissors or sharp knife.

Sheet of transparent foil, max. 0.5 mm thick.

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop: Door - step 2/3

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2x M2x6

1x M2x12

2x M2x10

2x M2x14

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop: Door - step 3/3

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1x M2x14

1x M2x14

1x M2x10

4x M2x10

1x M2x6

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Subassembly #9 – Wheel (C or D)

Now you will assemble wheels. You can choose between 2 designs (wheel C/wheel D):

Wheel C:

Required print plates:

  • “Print 39 - body 13 + Wheel C wheel Hub”
  • “Print 34 - Wheel C - Beadlock”

Non-printed parts:

  • Screw M2x10: 20 pcs.

Wheel D:

Required print plates:

  • “Print 34 - Wheel D”

Non-printed parts:

  • Screw M3x8: 20 pcs.

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Wheel C

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5x M2x10

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Wheel D

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5x M3x8

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop - Wheels D

In this 1-step procedure, you will install the licence plate and then mount 4 wheels on axles.

  • Wheel subassemblies

Required print plates:

  • “Print 35 - FINISH - Winker -side

Non-printed parts:

  • Screw M2x6: 1 pcs.
  • Screw M3x10: 4 pcs.

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop: Wheels D

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4x M3x10

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop - final

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Landy 4x4 Hardtop - general tips

  • Always use a proper battery charger. Bad charging of the Li-Pol battery may lead to a risk of fire!
  • Disconnect the battery when the model is not used. The small switch on the ESC doesn't disconnect the battery and the ESC may draw a small amount of current even in OFF-state and can fully empty your battery in few days, which can lead to battery damage.
  • Do not go into the water unless you have waterproof electronics! Water can damage bearings.

  • Adjust the front wheels steering in such a way that the maximum steering angle is about 35 °. A greater range of steering angle leads to high stress on the cardan joints and may cause damage. If your steering angle is too high, you can shorten the servo arm (use hole closer to servo axis) to reduce it.

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