CineSplore 3” Build guide��#1 tip is to use a good driver for any building. While many drivers work fine, the only one we 100% recommend are MIP drivers. These things are created to a standard beyond surgical instruments and makes building much easier.
Grab the main plate of the frame that you will mount your electronics to. Press in the M2 pressnuts into the four center holes as seen in the images.
DO NOT TRY TO PULL THESE INTO PLACE BY TIGHTENING A SCREW INTO THEM OR YOU WILL STRIP THE SCREW!�PRESS them into plate with pliers as seen in the picture on the right.��The entire point of this first step is to point this risk out to you. That you CANNOT mount the M2 pressnuts the same way you do with the M3 pressnuts. These may already be pressed in for you so this slide is moot.
Grab the top plate and pull the M3 pressnuts into place as seen in the picture above by tightening a screw through them then remove the screw. Note that the pressnuts go in OPPOSITE the side of the countersunk holes. If you get them in on the wrong side, just grab the pressnut with some pliers and twist to the right to undo them from the carbon. These will be used for the gopro or otherwise HD camera mount.
Grab the lower plate and arms. Assemble them as seen in the picture above. Use 8mm screws.
Place the main electronic plate on top and tighten the 2mm screws. Note the alignment of the holes pointed out by the arrows on the two right pictures. The center picture does not have the holes aligned and is incorrect.
Thread on some of the M3 pressnuts and pull them into the carbon by tightening the screw.��Be careful not to overtighten anything. ESPECIALLY the M2 screws. They are very delicate and do strip if you’re not careful. Don’t force it if it gets tough.
Grab the standoffs and push them into the holes seen in the pictures above. It’s going to be a tight fit so use a screw and pull the standoff into the hole like you did with the M3 pressnuts.
The top plate has countersunk holes in it because battery pads are ugly, dead weight and annoying. You don’t need them with this frame but feel free to use if you wish. You may notice that the countersunk hole rim is a bit rough. This is because the top plate is 1.5mm thick and the countersinking is deeper than 1.5mm. This is normal and does not affect the performance of the frame. ��The picture on the right shows an optional antenna mount. There are some spare M2 pressnuts that are used for these holes to make this mount work. This is optional.
Screw on the ducts AFTER you’re done building….or you’ll just need to take them off before installing your motors and electronics.
This is the simplest build when used with a DJI/Caddx Vista unit. It’s just six solders from the Vista to the AIO board. Then just solder on the motor wires, power lines and capacitor.
This design will have multiple duct/guard options. The image on the left is built with the StanFPV ducts which offer a performance boost over the standard ducts. On the right you can see a typical build weight of around 540g