Editors:
Marcin Jakubowski
Graphic Design:
Jean-Baptiste Vervaeck
Version:
Date:
D3D Pro - Build Manual
v2.0
November 21, 2020
Open Source Ecology Production Manual Series
Table of contents
Prelude: Notes on Using this Guide
Appendix
Notes On Using this Guide
ABOUT: This guide - the D3D Pro Build Guide- is part of a production manual series for the 50 Global Village Construction Set machines. The intended audience is people interested in producing kits, running immersion build workshops based on this kit, and anyone else interested in collaborative, open source production.
HOW TO USE: You can use a QR code reader to scan the bar codes to access content online.
COLLABORATION: This is a collaborative effort. You are invited to help edit this guide. You can edit this document or make a copy, make your edits, and email us describing your proposed changes. To join our open source product development effort, see the Getting Involved page on the OSE wiki. You can email us at info@opensourceecology.org
Wiring - take a look at John Blakley’s wiring guide for the Pro and follow it for most of the wiring.
For the build of the Extruder - see Universal Extruder Build Instructions
For the Control Panel, see the wiki page on the Unviersal Controller
The D3D Pro is a production printer with an 8” insulated, heated bed.
This manual walks a builder through the build process. This builds on the Manual from 2018 - which you can still use for relevant guidance..
Building the kit involves:
Link to Product Page
Picture
Front
Back
Y1
Y2
Z1
Z2
X
Link to Product Page
To build frame:
B. Assemble Upper Frame
Tip: Use small file, saw or dremel tool to grind off small amount of material if angle iron won't fit into the printed corner. You can also use small amounts of silicone lubricant to make the sliding of the angle into the printed corners easier.
Upper printed corner tabs face opposite directions as indicated.FRONT
Label the front of the printer as a point of reference.
FRONT Z1
FRONT
Left upper corner tabs mirror each other as indicated.FRONT
Z1
Y1
Y2
Z2
X
1
2
3
4
Frame has to be decently square to prevent Axis Carriage Jams and a level
Bed, but this is not critical because there are adjustments in software and in the design
Centering the Z Axis
Centering the Z Axis should be done so that the print area is correct. You can do a final adjustment side to side once your printer is running. You just need to make sure the Z axes are vertical and not skewed.
The bed must be level to achieve good adhesion of initial printing layers and also to prevent part disfiguration while printing. However, there is bed leveling correction in software, so you can be off by a few millimeters and perfect leveling will still occur. .
You can use a combination square on 4 upper and 4 lower points. Ensure that the combination square distance matches equally from point to point. Remember that your frame pieces must be properly attached in order to get accurate readings. You can use a rubber mallet to punch the corners all the way into the steel angle. However, in general the 3D printed corners are already square - so the frame should be square automatically.
Steel must be inserted all the way
Into the printed Corners. If needed
Use rubber mallet on corners to get
Proper fit
Keep adjusting this distance until it matches on it’s corresponding opposite side. Final adjustment can be done once you observe the actual motion range of the extruder.
Partial bottom of the frame. Remember to mark the steel angles 1.5” away from the edges and assemble each side first for ease of alignment.
Assembled bottom:
Start with opposite sides, than insert the middle pieces:
Partial top. Note the mirror image corner pieces:
Assembled top:
Hint 1: Use a rubber mallet or a hammer with a wood block.
Hint 2: to eliminate guessing of how deep the pieces need to be inside the sockets - use a ruler and measure every few hits. The steel is 10”. The sockets are 1.5” deep. This means the exposed steel should end up at 7” long. To be safe - make it 6.75” exposed.
Hint 3: If you want to guarantee the correct dimensions - cut yourself a piece of wood or other material exactly 6.75”. Use it as a spacer - by holding it against the steel as you punch in the so that you keep knocking the steel in until you bottom out against your wood spacer. This guarantees that the sides will be equivalent to within a fraction of a millimeter - which is better than you can do by measuring. Note that the steel pieces may be more than 1 mm off in length - so using the spacer allows you to even out all sides of the frame even if the steel angle is not equal size
Hint 4: if you are having a hard time inserting the steel into the corner pieces - use a heat gun to soften the corner pieces.
Fully assembled frame:
Question: How precise do I need to be with how square and parallel I make the frame?
Answer: ⅛”
Use M6x30 bolts to connect Y axes to corners.
2. Step 2: Build Axes and Attach to Frame
How to build a D3D Pro from Kit. See wiki page for CAD files.
Y1 Axis
Y2 Axis
X Axis
Z1 Axis
Z2 Axis
Zip tie bearings through hole
2. Autoparallel Mechanism - Detail
This allows the X axis rods to move in and out, in case Y axes are not exactly parallel - so that the Y motion does not bind up.
Take belt, m6 set screw, and 3D printed belt cylinder
Screw the set screw inside the belt using a 3 mm Allen wrench.
Slip belt inside the belt cylinder with belt ridges towards each other.
Once set screw is in, belt cannot be pulled out
2. Attach Belts
Belts have a lock on one and other side.
Take belt, m6 set screw, and 3D printed belt cylinder
Screw the set screw inside the belt using a 3 mm Allen wrench.
Slip belt inside the belt cylinder with belt ridges towards each other.
2. To make the idler piece:
Note that we shifted to 1-piece axis 3D printed pieces, so the 2-part clamshells have been simplified.
Study idler assembly
Study assembly of carriage
Study assembly of motor piece
Study assembly of idler to rods. Nuts are needed inside for the Z axis, but not for the Extruder Axis.
Study final assembly of one axis.
2. Gantry Orientation
Main motion system
The gantry is the main motion system of the 3D printer, which moves the 3D print head in the X and Y direction. The print bed moves slowly up and down. See CAD of Gantry
To build... pay to orientation:
X is on left
Y1 Motor
Extruder Motor
Back
17.5” rods are X rods
Rods:
[4] 13" verticals
[6] 17.5" X and Y
[3] 14" for spool holder
17.5” rods - Y
Auto Parallel Piece
Idler
idler
Carriage
2. Gantry Detail 1 - X Axis to Y1 Connection
Main motion system
For reference only. Note that we shifted to 1-piece axis 3D printed pieces, so the 2-part clamshells have been simplified.
Y1 Axis
X Axis
X Axis
X Motor
X Motor
2. Gantry Detail 2 - X Axis to Y2 Connection
Main motion system
For reference only. Note that we shifted to 1-piece axis 3D printed pieces, so the 2-part clamshells have been simplified.
Idler Piece
Half-carriage Piece (allows rods to slip in and out for auto-paralleling of Y1 and Y2) (Auto Parallel Piece)
Y2 Carriage
Half
Y2 Axis
2. Gantry Detail 1 - X Axis to Y1 Connection
Main motion system
For reference only. Note that we shifted to 1-piece axis 3D printed pieces, so the 2-part clamshells have been simplified.
Y1 Axis
X Axis
X Axis
X Motor
2. Wire routing detail from X and Y to control panel
Main motion system
X Motor
Y1 Motor
Y1 Carriage
Y1 Idler
Extruder Wires
X Axis Wires
2. Motor, Bed Holder, Z Rod Detail
Main motion system
Y1 Motor
X Motor
Z2 Motor
X Motor
ExtruderMotor
Bed Holder
(Link)
Z Carriage
Y1 Motor
Z2
Motor
Y2
Motor
Note small break in rod: the Z2 Rod goes in half way into Z2 motor piece, the top part is a separate spool holder rod
2. Connection to Frame
Main motion system
....
Back
Slip spool holder in there
Z connection to bed
2. X axis to Y axis connection
Main motion system
....
Back
Auto Parallel Piece
Take picture
Y1
Y2
X
Wiring
Includes Control Panel Build + Wiring
See Universal Controller to build the Control Panel. See wiring manual, and a wire-by-wire visual guide John Blakley.
Heater Build - Understand the Anatomy of the Heater Element
Make 1 heater element. See details on the wiki.
Core - (under sleeve) consists of 4’ fiberglass sleeve core. Nichrome wraps around core, and then a second layer of fiberglass sleeve is used to insulate the heater element. The outer jacket should be longer (5’) so that it covers the entire core and solid wires.
Software
D3D Pro Startup Procedure
+
-
Troubleshooting