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TECHNIQUE- Fashion Drawing

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01

FASHION ILLUSTRATION

FASHION ILLUSTRATION:

Full outfit drawn on a figure with full styling.

These can be drawn with the use of a figure template. Conventional sketches are based on the ideal and standard body shape.

Fashion illustrations

Figure.1 February illustrations (Street, 2020)

Figure.2 February illustrations (Bowers, 2016)

Figure.3 Fashion template (Pink, 2019)

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02

HOW TO CREATE ELDERLY FASHION ILLUSTRATION?

Use different types of body’s templates which fit the elderly’s silhouette and draw the design on top to create the illustration

Figure.4 Different body shape illustrations (Freepik)

Figure.5 Elderly fashion illustrations (WANG, 2012)

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03

UGLY DRAWING AND ILLUSTRATION

Not requiring perfect drawing skill. Illustration is about the creative idea and design concept.

LET’S LOOK AT SOME ILLUSTRATIONS from FAMOUS FASHION BRANDS!!!

Prada 2016SS Fashion illustrations

PRADA 2016SS

Figure.9 Fashion illustrations (Carlstedt)

Figure.6-8 Prada SS2016 Womenswaer (Prada)

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04

UGLY DRAWING AND ILLUSTRATION

YOHJI YAMAMOTO 2013FW

Yohji Yamamoto 2013FW Fashion illustrations

Figure.10-11 Fashion illustrations (Bullock, 2023)

Figure.12-13 Fashion illustrations (Bullock, 2023)

Figure..14-15 (VEBLEN, 2013)

Figure..16-17 (VEBLEN, 2013)

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05

UGLY DRAWING AND ILLUSTRATION

MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF 2013FW

Meadham Kirchhoff 2013FW Fashion illustrations

Figure.18-19 Fashion illustrations (Stoppard, 2013)

Figure.20-22 Meadham Kirchhoff Fall 2013 Menswear (BLANKS, 2013)

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06

UGLY DRAWING AND ILLUSTRATION

BALMAIN 2013SS

Balmain 2013SS Fashion illustrations

Figure.23-24 Fashion illustrations (Nadal, 2012)

Figure.25-26 Fashion illustrations (Nadal, 2012)

Figure.27-30 Balmain Spring 2013 Ready-to-Wear (PHELPS, 2012)

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07

PRODUCTION DRAWING/ FLAT DRAWING

Production drawing shows the factory or pattern cutter the shape of the garment when laid flat, without any artistic flare or stylization.

It clearly shows the details of the garment,

Including:

  • Type of stitches
  • Shape/detail e.g. darts or tucks
  • Trims and fastenings

Figure.31 Outerwear (Guthrie, 2014)

Figure.32-33 Fashion flat drawing (Shirras, 2023)

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TECHNIQUE-

Component Integration/ POF

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01

BUTTONs AND LEDs ON CLOTHES

Tools:

How to make make a button switch to light up LEDs on clothes?

Parts & Supplies

Tools

  • 3D Printer
  • Needle set
  • Scissors

Figure.34-41 Glowing 3D printed coat buttons (Adafruit Industries, 2014)

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01

BUTTON AND LED ON CLOTHES

Final prototype:

Figure.42-43 NeoPixel Coat Buttons (Brothers, 2014)

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02

USE OF POF Textile

Polymeric Optical Fibre (POF):

  • Strong
  • Transparent thermoplastic
  • Flexibility
  • Tactility

The POFs were woven with conventional yarns into textiles.

The POF textile is connected with light sources and battery to enable illumination.

The illuminative textile is composed of Polymeric Optical Fibres (POFs) and textile-based yarns such as wool.

Figure.44 Intelligent Textile (Author’s own)

Figure.45 Intelligent Textile (Author’s own)

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02

USE OF POF Textile

FASHION DESIGN

INTERIOR DESIGN

REHABILITATION

Figure.46 Interactive Illuminative Knitwear (Author’s own)

Figure.47 Sensory wall (Author’s own)

Figure.48 Sensory wall instruction (Author’s own)

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TECHNIQUE-

OPEN SEAM AND

DIY FASHION

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FIRST YOU NEED TO KNOW….

In order to create a seam you would need to sew through two or more pieces of fabric to connect them.

* You will have two fabric or more

* And you need to distinguish the right side and wrong side of the fabric

  • RIGHT SIDE: is the side that should be seen when you are wearing

  • WRONG SIDE: is the side that won’t been seen when you are wearing

01

HOW TO CREATE AN OPEN SEAM?

A

B

B

W

A is under B

W = wrong side

STEP 1

  • PUT ONE FABRIC UNDER THE OTHER FABRIC

WRONG SIDE

RIGHT SIDE

NOTICE: The right side should be faced to each other

That’s mean the wrong side should on top

Figure.49-50 Fabric side (Walnes, 2023)

Figure.51 Fabric Texture (Author’s own)

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02

HOW TO CREATE AN OPEN SEAM?

STEP 2

  • LEAVE A SEAM ALLOWANCE

A seam allowance is the space between a seam and the edge of the fabric.

Size of seam allowance = 1 cm

STEP 3

  • SEW THE SEAM

A seam can be sewn by hand or with using a sewing machine. And your seams can be straight or curved.

Then you can stitch the straight or curved line (RED LINE) to attach both fabric

Remember need to do backstitching at the beginning and the end of the stitching

02

W.S.

Straight Seam

02

W.S

Curved Seam

You can see the result after attaching two fabrics

And the next step : OPEN THE SEAM

Figure.52 Fabric Texture (Author’s own)

Figure.53 How to Sew a Seam (jessyratfink, 2014)

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03

HOW TO CREATE AN OPEN SEAM?

2. Open seam: a seam that has been stitched and then pressed open.

1. Plain seam: a seam with seam allowance pushed to one side.

After sewing the seam:

Finally, you can overlock the edges of the seam allowance to create a clean edge

OR

Figure.54-55 Plain and open seam (Tokens, 2021)

Figure. 56 Overlock edges (Coultas, 2022)

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0

4

E

X

A

M

P

L

E

1)

Mark 1cm allowance

2)

Right side to right side

3)

Follow the marked line to sew

4)

Backstitches (in the beginning and end)

5)

Open seam (Iron out)

6)

Serger or overlock the edges

How to make an open seam (Bonnick, 2011)

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05

Type of pockets

PATCH POCKET

SIDE SEAM POCKET

FLAP POCKET

ZIPPERED POCKET

SLIT POCKET

Figure.57-61 Type of pockets (Admin, 2023)

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06

HOW TO MAKE A PATCH POCKET

PATCH POCKET

HOW TO make PATCH POCKETS

1. Trace the shape of your patch pocket.

2. Add at least 1 inch (2.5cm) to the top and ¼ inch (6mm) on the sides and bottom of your pattern for seam allowance.

3. Cut one piece of fabric for the pocket.

4. Press in the seam allowance of the sides and bottom.

5. Neaten the top edge with either a serger or zi-zag stitch. Fold down and press the top edge by the seam allowance. Typically the top edges are not sewn across when making patch pockets for shirts.

6. Put patch pocket on top of the garment and secure them with pins. Stitch all the way around with a straight stitch making sure you reinforce the top corners.

Figure.62 Patch pocket (Luisa, 2024)

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07

DIY FASHION

Deconstructed Shirt

Figure.63 Deconstructed shirt (Bardas, 2019)

Figure.64 Monse’s shirt (Gillette, 2016)

Figure.65 Elizabeth and James’s shirt(FARRA, 2016)

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References

Figure.1 Street, M. (2020). February designs and illustrations. Retrieved from https://www.behance.net/gallery/93594269/February-designs-and-illustrations.

Figure.2 BOWERS, K. (2016). Kenneth Paul Block Sketches on Show in Boston. Retrieved from https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/kenneth- paul-block-sketches-boston-show-10307827/.

Figure.3 Pink, R. (2019). Fashion design process using fashion templates from Pret-a-Template. Retrieved from https://patternlab.london/home/s1-ep3-fashion-design-fashion-templates/.

Figure.4 Freepik. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.freepik.com/free-vector/hand-drawn-types-female-body-shapes_12276375.htm#query=body%20types&position=1&from_view=keyword&track=ais_user&uuid=c2e52099-9998-4e36-a1d3-3dcaeb526924.

Figure.5 WANG, C. (2012). An Illustrated Guide To Fashion’s Biggest Icons. Retrieved from https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/famous-fashion-people.

Figure.6-8 Prada. (n.d.). SS 2016 Womenswear. Retrieved from https://www.prada.com/tw/hk/pradasphere/fashion-shows/2016/ss-womenswear.html?page=3

Figure.9 Carlstedt, C. (n.d.). SHOWstudio. Retrieved from https://showstudio.tumblr.com/post/129909515894/prada-by-cecilia-carlstedt-shop-the-artist-on.

Figure..10-13 BULLOCK, H. (2023). FASHION ILLUSTRATION: YOHJI YAMAMOTO A/W 13 MENSWEAR. SHOWstudio. Retrieved from https://www.showstudio.com/collections/autumn-winter-2013/yohji_yamamoto_aw_13_menswear/fashion-illustration.

Figure..14-17 VEBLEN, A. (2013). Yohji Yamamoto Fall 2013 Menswear. Vogue Runway. Retrieved from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2013-menswear/yohji-yamamoto.

Figure.18-19 Stoppard, L. (2013). SHOW REPORT: MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF A/W 13. SHOWstudio. Retrieved from https://www.showstudio.com/collections/autumn-winter-2013/meadham_kirchhoff_aw_13.

Figure.20-22 BLANKS, T. (2013). Meadham Kirchhoff Fall 2013 Menswear. Vogue Runway. Retrieved from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2013-menswear/meadham-kirchhoff.

Figure.23-26 NADAL, R. (2012). FASHION ILLUSTRATION: BALMAIN S/S 13 WOMENSWEAR. SHOWstudio. Retrieved from https://www.showstudio.com/collections/spring-summer-2013/balmain_paris_womenswear_s_s_2013/fashion-illustration.

Figure.27-30 PHELPS, N. (2012). Balmain Spring 2013 Ready-to-Wear. Vogue Runway. Retrieved from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2013-ready-to-wear/balmain.

Figure.31 Guthrie, B. (2014). Outerwear concepts. behance. Retrieved from https://www.behance.net/gallery/13920589/outerwear-concepts.

Figure.32-33 Shirras, L. (2023). Hiraeth. Arts Thread. Retrieved from https://www.artsthread.com/profile/louise-shirras.

Figure.34-41 Adafruit Industries. (2014, January 16). Glowing 3D printed coat buttons. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AwfeGkE-wk4. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AwfeGkE-wk4

Figure.42-43 Brothers, R. (2014). NeoPixel Coat Buttons. Adafruit. Retrieved from https://learn.adafruit.com/neopixel-coat-buttons/overview.

Figure.44-45 Intelligent Textile (Author’s own)

Figure.46 Interactive Illuminative Knitwear (Author’s own)

Figure.47 Sensory wall (Author’s own)

Figure.48 Sensory wall instruction (Author’s own)

Figure.49-50 Walnes, T. (2023). FIVE WAYS TO TELL THE RIGHT SIDE OF YOUR FABRIC. Tilly and the buttons. Retrieved from https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2023/05/how-to-tell-right-side-of-your-fabric.html.

Figure.51 Fabric Texture (Author’s own)

Figure.52 Fabric Texture (Author’s own)

Figure.53 jessyratfink. (2014). How to Sew a Seam. Instructables. Retrieved from https://www.instructables.com/how-to-sew-a-seam/.

Figure.54-55 Tokens, E. (2021). How To Sew An Open Seam: 5 Step Sewing Tutorial. The Creative Curator. Retrieved from https://www.thecreativecurator.com/how-to-sew-an-open-seam-tutorial/.

Figure. 56 Coultas, M. (2022). How to Finish a Seam on Woven and Knit Fabric. Melco Fabrics. Retrieved from https://www.melcofabrics.com.au/blogs/the-sewing-room/how-to-finish-a-seam-on-woven-and-knit-fabric.

Figure.Bonnick, D. (2011, December 7). How to make an open seam. https://youtu.be/CBz4HFt-VFw?si=EkJ2Vuo4K6XCdVkZ

Figure.57-61 Admin. (2023). A Guide to Styles and Functions of Pockets. Textiles School. Retrieved from https://textilesschool.com/types-of-pockets/.

Figure.62 Luisa. (2024). HOW TO SEW PATCH POCKETS - BEST 2 WAYS. Treasurie. Retrieved from https://blog.treasurie.com/how-to-sew-patch-pockets/.

Figure.63 BARDAS, A. (2019). Let’s Face It, Everyone Needs a Deconstructed Shirt Right Now. WHO WHAT WEAR. Retrieved from https://www.whowhatwear.com/best-deconstructed-shirts-trend.

Figure.64 GILLETTE, M. (2016). Monse spring/summer 2017 collection catwalk show for NYFW. The up coming. Retrieved from https://www.theupcoming.co.uk/2016/09/10/monse-springsummer-2017-collection-catwalk-show-nyfw/.

Figure.65 FARRA, E. (2016). Elizabeth and James SPRING 2017 READY-TO-WEAR. Vogue Runway. Retrieved from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/elizabeth-james.