A2 – DESIGNED BY ANONYMOUS
ENTRY FOR PMWT2021 (ROUND 2)
INFORMATION 1.0
THE IDEA OF A2 START WHEN R1 IS ENDED I PREDICT THAT MOST OF PARTICIPANTS WILL MAKE STUNNING MOD IN THIS ROUND, I’ DECIDED TO CONSTRUCT SIMPLE DESIGN AND LOOKS CUTE , THEN I ADD SOME NEW FEATURES .THE A2 IS RETRACTABLE, WRITABLE AND IT HAS 6 FACE EMOJI OF BEARS, (WE BARE BEARS - THEME) IT TOOK ME 3 DAYS TO THINK THE PROCESS OF MAKING IT RETRACTABLE AND WRITABLE WITH MAINTAINING ITS PREFFERED LENGTH. I HAVE A LOT OF MISTAKES IN DAY 2 OF MODDING CAUSE I CAN ‘T COMBINE ALL PARTS BUT THE TRIALS MAKES IT PERFECT.
THE BODY I USED FOR A2 IS SLIGHTLY RARE WHERE YOU WILL BUY IT ONLY FOR MINISO STORE AND I THINK ITS LIMITED ITEM ,( NOT SURE) FOR THE COLOR CHOICES, I CHOOSE SOMETHING LIGHT WITH AESTHETIC LOOK, FOR ITS WEIGHT ITS MEDIUM-HEAVY AND LAST ABOUT ITS ADJUSTABILITY ,YES STILL ADJUSTABLE;
IMPORTANT MEASUREMENTS:
•CAPS - 9mm ID X 12mm OD (L= 4.5cm)
•TIP – Must 9mm OD only !
•BODY – 1cm Thick │12.5 -13.5cm Length
» You can use acrylic pipe, marker , carbon fiber , etc. as CAP, you can use any body, A2 has no tape Mod so make sure the required measurement are followed.
PARTS WITH NO SUB :
•GRIPS – Panda Grip, Yokis Grip ,Sailor Grip and O ring.
INFORMATION 1.1
NAME OF MOD : A2
CREATOR : ANONYMOUS
LENGTH : 21 cm
WEIGHT : 20.8 g
BODY THICKNESS : 1cm
SPINNING AREA : 11 cm
CENTER OF GRAVITY : COP
RETRACTABLE : Yes
WRITABLE : Yes
DIFFICULTY : Slightly Hard & Very Time Consuming
STUFFS YOU NEED
•2X – FC TEXTLINER PASTEL (BODY)
•2X – M&G YOKIS II (GRIP)
•2X – PENTEL IFEELIT BX480 (TIP)
•2X – PANDA SUPER BALLPEN (GRIP)
•2X – SAILOR GRIP (GRAY AND BLACK)
•2X – O RING
•1X – MINISO GEL PEN (WBB)
•1X – INKTUBE (NO INK)
•1X – SPRING
COST : $15 – 17 USD
SOME STUFFS NOT
INCLUDE IN THE PICTURE
PROCEDURE
Cut Two FC Text liner in 4.5 cm (back part), This is the caps
Arrangement of GRIPS
Panda grip > smooth part of Yokis grip
> Gray sailor > O ring > Black sailor
> Gray sailor > 3 section of yokis grip
GRIP CUTS : Yokis (cut at 3rd section, you have 3 section and the smooth part of yokis grip), Panda (cut 8mm it will be 7mm cause it will stretch when you put it in the cap), Sailor (cut at 1 sec (2x gray & 1x black , total of 3 SG), then 1x Oring.
This is one of the hardest steps, first put 8mm panda grip be careful cause if you apply too much force on the grip it will split, Wet the grip first before inserting, Second is the smooth part of yokis grip, my fingers in this process start to hurt, imagine the default inner diameter of yokis grip is 8mm & you put in 12mm diameter? I used cloth and a little bit oil in this process to Avoid damage on grips and also to avoid mark on grip.
For Body : Add tape as guide 5mm - 10 mm, if you choose 10mm the spinning area will short a little bit then the connection of body and caps is tight ,but for this I choose 5mm, this steps you need to base at the cap hole, the inner diameter of cap is 9mm while the body thick is 10mm so I need to sand/file this body near at 9mm
This is the result after you sanded the body, This is completely sanded both sides, this step is a little bit hard cause you need accurate measurement once you sanded it at 8mm or 7mm it will not fit on caps, you will use tape to tighten, accurate measurement is required to make this perfectly.
My brain in this process is tired, I can’t use tapes on this! Skadi sama give me minus point if I use tapes, there are grip fits in this tip but too thick, it will not fit in the cap, I need at least 0.005mm gap in the caps so it can slide when I press to make the thrust device or system, so I got idea I used facemask I cut it and glue it using mighty bond, 0.005mm gap is finally solved !
This is the skeleton arrangement
At CAP A : I cut 1mm panda grip as stopper at the tip, the tip with facemask, 3cm inkless tube and cotton I know you already know what is the purpose of cotton.
At tip part of cap : Insert first the tip then put the stopper, make sure the stopper is tight so it will not fall when you spin the mod
At the back part of cap :
put the 3cm inkless tube
Also the put cotton inside of tip so that the connection of ink tube and tip is tight
Then add cotton make sure the inkless tube is at the center as shown
Ready to connect
Cap A is Done !
I cleaned the tip part of ink tube, This is for CAP B
CAP B system is different in Cap A
This step I used spring, and the tip part of ink tube to make it retractable, see the mark where I cut the ink tube
This step I repeat what I did at cap A, tip first then the stopper.
Put ink tube with spring then apply cotton
Cap B is ready to connect,
We leave this cap B, no need to attach the ink tube to end of body cause this is writable, it designed that the cap is free to open and close.
OUTPUT
SOME BARREL REPLACEMENT :