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HISTORICAL BEAD EMBROIDERY

Presented by: HL Adair of Makyswell (Catherine Y King)

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What is the definition of Bead Embroidery?

  • Bead Embroidery is the process of adding beads, crystals and pearls to a fabric back-round which stabilizes the added adornment with a stitch strong enough to keep the embellishment in place.
  • Wikipedia defines Bead Embroidery as a type of beadwork that uses a needle and thread to stitch beads to a surface fabric, suede or leather. Bead Embroidery is an embellishment that does not form an essential part of the textile’s structure as does Embroidery.
  • There has been a continued debate that Bead Embroidery is not extant (historical), but we have examples of bead and pearl embroidery that not only adorn Holy Relics, but gowns, tapestries, jewelry boxes, head ware and jewelry since the 1100 AD. You will see photographs of portraits which show confirmed use of bead and pearl embroidery on gowns from 1200-1600 AD. The earliest evidence of Bead Embroidery has been found in not only the tombs of Egypt but on the Steppes of Mongolia. Is this technique period? Yes.
  • Our ancestors were extremely ingenious in developing glass and crystal. The history of the Jablonec crystal manufacturing began in the 1300’s. The only limit they endured was the availability of colors that we have in today’s times. Bohemia has a very rich history in the development of the crystal.

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Bead and Pearl Embroidery – �My go to for inspiration.

  • Gloriana-
  • Queen Elizabeth I- The Rainbow Portrait 1600-02, attributed to Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger.

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The Rainbow Portrait, c. 1600–02, attributed to Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger

The Rainbow Portrait, c. 1600–02, attributed to Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger

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A fully beaded and jeweled coif (Caul)

Another favorite which exemplifies my love of Beaded Coifs and head ware:

#204 Female -By Hans Krell, 16th Century (c: 1490-1565)

My fascination with the pearl embroidery on the garment is joyful, the carcanet is either leather or fabric before adornment.

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Pearl Embroidery at its finest.

  • Lucas Cranach the Younger. (1515-1586) Portrait of a Lady PORTRAIT OF A LADY, THREE-QUARTER LENGTH, IN A GREEN VELVET ANDORANGE DRESS AND A PEARL-EMBROIDERED BLACK HAT . This portrait is the first portrait used to develop my beaded Carcanet.

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Miniature portrait of Barbara Radziwell – Lucas Cranach the Younger - 1550�

  • Barbara Radziwiłł was Queen of Poland and Grand Duchess of Lithuania as consort of Sigismund II Augustus, the last male monarch of the Jagiellon dynasty. Barbara, a great beauty and already widowed, became a royal mistress most likely in 1543 and they married in secret in July or August 1547.
  • The amount of pearling, ouchies and beadwork is amazing.

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Gloves of the Holy Roman Emperor, Frederick II�Early 13th century, before 1220�Vienna, Weltliche Schatzkammer�

  • The Coronet pictured is for Baroness Gracia Slay of the Barony of Hawkwood for her Divestiture. Same principles of pearl work was used in its construction.

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  • 9/19/2020- Designed, constructed and beaded by Adair of Makyswell. All labradorite was hand cabbed as well as the composite turquoise by Adair of Makyswell.

Designed, constructed and Beaded by Adair of Makyswell. All cabochons done by Adair of Makyswell.

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VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM- BEADED CASKET

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All pieces constructed by HL Adair of Makyswell

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STUDENT COMPLETION FROM UNIVERSITY – THE QUILTING LIONESS

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Beaded Coif – University of Atlantia – Erin Penn – Prudence the Curious

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The History of the Bicone Crystal…..

Profile Portrait of a Young Woman- 1490

                  Davide Ghirlandaio ( 1452-1525)

                  Gemaldegairerie, Berlin

                  Portrait size :  17.5 x 13.5

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Bicone crystals existed before Swarovski!

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“ One stitch to rule them all”……………….