I.Introduction
Final Assembly
The final assembly process puts all the parts together into the finished product. Once the machine is completed, a startup and testing procedure begins - up to the point where the automatic bed leveling is calibrated.
The modules that are assembled are:
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Extruder Mounting
Step 1.1: Gather materials to connect Extruder to X-Axis�For the Titan Aero, the extruder bolts simply onto the X axis, but for the Prusa extruder - we will be gluing the extruder to the X-Axis. Doing this step first gives the glue time to dry. Find the Extruder, X-Axis and the bed holder.
X-axis Bed Holder Extruder
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Extruder Mounting
Step 1.2: Prop up the X-Axis using the bed holder�Set the X-Axis on top of the bed holder so you have a flat surface. Now gravity will assist in gluing the Extruder onto the X-Axis.
Step 1.3: Orient the Extruder�Orient the extruder as shown. Notice the blue sensor points away from the long bolt you see sticking up through the motor holder.
Be confident that your extruder is facing in the correctly direction before you super glue it to the x-axis carriage.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Extruder Mounting
Step 1.4: Glue together the Extruder and X-Axis
Fill the top and bottom rows of three holes on the X-Axis carriage with a thin layer of super glue.
Firmly attach the Extruder to the X-Axis and set aside to dry.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Attach Y Axes
Step 2.1: Orient frame correctly
The left face is the one with the most holes. There should be a top and bottom hole on the front face. Place the frame so that the front face is facing you.
Step 2.1: Gather y-left-axis materials
Get the y-left-axis. Loosen the nut on the long bolt on the idler piece.
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Final Assembly - Attach Y Axes
Step 2.2: Tighten y-left-axis idler to the frame�Place the idler onto the frame such that the long bolt is going through the top right hole, when you are looking at the left face of the frame.
Attach the nut you recently removed to the back of the idler’s bolt going through the frame then use a power drill to fasten the bolt.
Left face of the frame
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Y Axis
Step 2.3: Prepare the axis to be correctly sized�This step is important for making the axis exactly the correct length so it can be fastened onto the frame.
Use a flat screwdriver as a lever to gently pop out the belt peg so you can lengthen the Y Axis.
There are two belt pegs. Remove the belt peg that does not have a belt passing through it. The belt peg with a belt passing through it should still be inside the carriage.
Set aside the belt peg for later use.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Y Axis
Step 2.4: Lengthen the axis�Grab the axis just underneath the motor holder piece such that your thumbs are prepared to push the motor holder piece out.
This motion will lengthen the axis by sliding the motor piece holder away from the idler.
Lengthen the axis progressively while checking to see when the long bolt fits into the hole on the other side of the frame.
Regularly check to make sure that the rods remain flush in the idler and that the rods are not sticking out. This happens pretty regularly. If the rods are sticking out then push them back in.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Y Axis
Step 2.5: Tighten motor screws and bolts�With the axis lengthened out to the correct length, you can now fully tighten the motor screws and bolts on the motor holder.
This will keep the rods from moving now that the motor holder and the idler are the correct length apart from each other.
Note that you must tighten all 8 bolts on the motor piece at this time - as these will become inaccessible once the axis is mounted on the frame.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Y Axis
Step 2.6: Attach motor holder to the frame�Fit the long bolt of the motor piece into the frame and tighten with a nut.
The axis should now be attached to the frame in two places -- at the motor and the idler.
Tighten each nut with pliers.
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Final Assembly - Y Axis
Step 3: Use pliers to tension the belt�Using a pair of pliers, tighten the belt by grabbing the belt end coming out of the peg - until it is taught enough to twang like a guitar string when plucked.
To tighten the belt - you can grab the belt with pliers and then twist the pliers.
It is possible to break the belt if you put too much pressure on it with the pliers, so be firm but gentle during this process.
When the belt is taught, insert the peg you had previously removed.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly + Quality Control
Step 4: Repeat steps 1-3 for the Y-Right Axis�At the end of this step, you should have 2 axes attached to the frame.
They should rest on the left and right face of the frame.
Step 5: Quality Control Checkpoint
Note that both of the motors are mounted at the back of the frame.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - X Axis
Sub-module Introduction�X-axis Assembly �The x-axis is connected to the two y-axes carriages. When the y-axes moves, it moves the entire x-axis as well. This lets you print across the x and y directions.
Sub-module Functional Knowledge�X-axis Assembly �The x-axis needs to be fastened to the y-axis in a particular order so that it can be the exact length - and tight between the Y axes so that it moves well and is not loose.
The 5 steps, which are outlined in detail in the next pages, are::
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - X Axis Fitting Procedure
Step 6.1: Gather materials�Get the X-Axis, which now has the Extruder attached. Add a few more dabs of glue along the side to strengthen the connection.
Step 6.2: Wrap wires around extruder �Wrap the extruder wire bundle around the extruder so wires are out of the way.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - X Axis Fitting Procedure
Step 6.3: Minimize looseness of the x-axis motor holder�Before you fasten the X axis to the Y axes, you need to make sure the X axis motor holder is tight enough for tightening a bolt into its end nut catchers -, but loose enough for the motor holder to be pulled and extended so that it is flush to the Y-Left carriage.
To do this, use a screwdriver to tighten both the [3] M6x18 bolts and the [4] M3 motor screws
Do not tighten super-tight. Instead, hand-tighten until you reach tightness, then loosen each screw by a half-turn.
At this point, both the [4] M3 motor screws and the [3] M6x18 bolts are fairly loose, and the long M6x30 bolt is completely loose.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - X Axis Fitting Procedure
Step 6.4: Bolt the X Axis Idler into the Y-right carriage�Put [2] M6x30 bolts into the y-right carriage from the outside.
Move the X axis into position next to the y-right Carriage, so that the 2 long bolts coming out of the y-right axis can go into the x-axis idler.
Fasten the x-axis idler to the y-right carriage with a power drill on its low torque setting.
Note that it’s not important at this point that you get the x axis vertical - that will be a final point of adjustment.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - X Axis Fitting Procedure
Step 6.5: Prepare the axis to be extended
�
This step is important for making the axis exactly the correct length so it can be fastened between the Y axes.
Use a flat screwdriver as a lever to gently pop out the belt peg so you can lengthen the X Axis.
There are two belt pegs. Remove the belt peg that does not have a belt passing through it. The belt peg with a belt passing through it should still be tight inside the carriage.
Set aside the belt peg for later use.
Lengthen the X-Axis until the motor holder is butted up against the Y-Left Axis.
Note that this step should be done with the Y Carriages toward either end of the Y Axis - where the rods are most constrained. More accurate results can be obtained this way compared to doing this step with the Y Carriage at the middle of the Y axis.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - X Axis Fitting Procedure
Step 6.6: Lengthen the axis�Grab the axis just underneath the motor holder piece such that your thumbs are prepared to push the motor holder piece out.
This motion will lengthen the axis by slider the motor holder away from the idler.
Lengthen the axis progressively while checking to see when the X-Axis reaches the Y-Left Axis.
Regularly check to make sure that the rods remain flush in the idler and that the rods are not sticking out. This happens pretty regularly. If the rods are sticking out then push them back in.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - X Axis Fitting Procedure
Step 7.1: Attach the X-Axis motor holder piece very loosely onto Y-Left Axis carriage�Insert [2] M6x30 bolts through the Y-left carriage into the nut catchers of the X-Axis motor holder.
Use an allen key to secure the bolts loosely by hand, just tight enough to hold the X-Axis up so you can make adjustments to it.
Step 7.2: Fasten the x-axis motor holder to the Y Left and Y Right carriage�Adjust the X axis to vertical and then tighten both sides of the X axis with the M6x30 bolts. Use a power drill to fasten the x-axis motor holder to the y-left carriage.
At this point, you have the Y axes mounted to the frame with the X axis fastened between the Y axes.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - X Axis Fitting Procedure
Step 7.3: X-axis Quality Control Check Part 1 of 2
X-Axis tightly aligned with Y-Axis - make sure there is no gap.
Make sure the extruder carriage reaches the X -Axis end-stop.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - X Axis Fitting Procedure
Step 8.1: Tighten the x-axis motor holder bolts and screws�Tighten all bolts and screws on the motor holder hand-tight. This allows the belt to be tightened without pulling the motor piece away from the Y axis.
Step 8.2: Tension the X-Axis belt �Use a pair of pliers to tension the X-Axis belt. When it is taught, insert the belt peg.
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Final Assembly - X Axis Fitting Procedure
Step 8.3: Undo the Extruder wire bundle �Loosen the wires previously wrapped around the Extruder. �
Step 9: X-axis Quality Control Check Part 2 of 2
The previous Quality Control Check ensured that the X axis worked well, now this step is checking whether the Y Axes are exactly parallel. If they are not, then you will run into trouble with moving the Y axis during printing - especially at higher speeds when motor torque is lower.
This is because now that the x-axis is tight, it should be on the same plane as the y-axis carriages that it is attached to. If the y-axes are not parallel, then the tightened x-axis will add resistance when the y-axes are being moved back and forth. This is because non-parallel Y axes will make the X axis pull and push on the Y axes.
If it harder to move the Y Axes when they are closer to the frame, see troubleshooting.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Z Axis
Sub-module Introduction�Z-axis Assembly �The z-axis holds the heated bed and rests on the front and back face of the frame.
Sub-module Functional Knowledge�X-axis Assembly �Each z-axis needs to be fastened to the frame in a particular order so that it can be the exact correct length and tight so that it functions well.
The 5 steps, which are outlined in detail in the next pages, are:
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Z Axis
Step 10.1: Prepare to size the Z-Front Axis so it can be attached to the frame�The long bolt of the Z-Front Axis will be mounted onto the front of the frame using the nut on the bolt.
Double check that the Z-Front Axis is positioned to the right of the frame’s hole.
Remove the nut and long bolt attached to this long bolt now.��This offset to the right is used to increase the amount of printing space available to the printer.
There are two belt pegs. Remove the belt peg that does not have a belt passing through it. The belt peg with a belt passing through it should still be inside the carriage.
Use a flat screwdriver as a lever to gently pop out the belt peg.
Set aside the belt peg for later use.
There should be a nut, a long bolt, and a belt peg set aside.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Z Axis
Step 10.2: Tighten the bolts on the idler �Use a power drill to tighten the [2] shorter m6x18 bolts on the idler.
This ensures that the rods are firmly in place and flush against the back of the idler.
These bolts may already be tightened at this point, which is what is needed.
Step 10.3: Lengthen the Z-Front Axis �Push up on the motor holder with your thumbs to lengthen the axis to fit to the hole on the frame. �
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Z Axis
Step 11.1: Mount the idler of the Z-Front Axis onto the frame�Use the nut and the long bolt to fasten the idler of the z-front axis to the bottom of the frame’s front face.
Use a power drill to fasten the bolt.�
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Z Axis
Step 11.2: Attach the Z-Front Axis motor holder to the frame�Tighten the z-front motor holder to the top of the frame’s front face using a pair of pliers.
The axis should now be attached to the frame in two places -- at the motor and the idler.
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Final Assembly - Z Axis
Step 11.3: Tension the belt �Using a pair of pliers, tighten the belt until it is taught enough to twang like a guitar string when plucked.
It is possible to break the belt if you put too much pressure on it with the pliers, so be firm but gentle during this process.
When the belt is taut, insert the peg you had previously removed.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Z Axis
Step 12: Mount the Z-Back axis onto the frame�This step is identical to the z-front axis (steps 10-11), except that you are mounting the Z-Back axis onto the back face of the frame.
Mount the Z-Back axis onto the frame so that the idler piece is mounted on the bottom of the frame and the motor piece is mounted on the top of the frame.
The Z-Back Axis should be attached so that it is directly behind the Z-Front Axis. Double check that they are aligned before attaching the -Back Axis.
Follow steps 10-11 for the z-back axis.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Bed Holder
Step 13: Remove bottom long bolts on both sides of the z-axes carriages�Next, we will be attaching the bed holder to both of the Z-Axes.
Remove the bottom bolts from both the Z-Front and Z-Back carriages.
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Final Assembly - Bed Holder
Step 14.1: Attach one side of bed holder�Holding the bed holder steady with one hand, attach [2] M6x30 bolts through the Z-Front Axis into the idler piece of the bed holder.
Tighten the middle bolt on the idler with an allen wrench.
Use an electric drill to first tighten one M6x30 bolt on the Z-Front Axis. Straighten the idler, then fasten the second bolt.
This is important because the bed is preferably flat (parallel to the floor) so things can be printed on the bed. However, the 3d printer can adjust for a tilt of the bed. This will work, but it will also produce prints that are skewed. This may or may not matter, depending on what one is printing.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Bed Holder
Step 14.2: Quality control check. Idler alignment�Make sure the bed holder idler is well-aligned. It should be near-perfectly straight with the carriage piece that it is attached to.
Bed Idler Piece that is connected to the z-carriage is slightly crooked.
Well aligned.
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Final Assembly - Bed Holder
Step 14.3: Attach other side of bed holder�After making sure the idler is well-aligned, tighten the other side of the bed holder with [2] M6x30 bolts.
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Final Assembly - Bed Holder
Step 15: Quality control check. Idler tightness�See the comparison images below to ensure both the bed holder idler pieces are attached tightly to the Z-Axes.
Too loose.
Nice and tight.
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Final Assembly - Heated Bed
Step 23.1 Position Extruder against end stops �Move the Extruder so it is butted up against the end stop on the Y-Right Axis and the X-Axis
Step 23.2 Position bed to maximize print bed size
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Final Assembly - Heated Bed
Step 23.2: Mark the placement of the heated bed with Sharpie�Once the bed is properly aligned, mark its position by drawing a line on the heated bed and the rods below it on both sides.
This will let you know where to put the heated bed when you paste it to the bed holder.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Heat Bed
Step 23.3: Prepare JB Kwik Weld�Squeeze small but equal amounts from each tube onto a disposable surface, about ½ inch diameter blobs. �
Step 23.4: Place JB Weld along the sides and tops of nuts to fasten to the rod�Do this step and step 26.3 in less than 5 minutes before the JB Weld starts to harden.
Mix the JB Weld.
Apply JB Weld liberally onto all 4 nuts along the tops and sides and along the edge of the rod that makes contact with the nut.
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Final Assembly - Heated Bed
Step 23.5: Use gravity to fix the heated bed to the bed holder�After you finish placing the JB Weld, place the heated bed onto the bed holder so that all the Sharpie marks are aligned.
Put a heavy object onto the heated bed after placing it. Use a cordless drill or other 5 pound object.
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Final Assembly - Control Panel
Step 24: Attach control panel to frame using zip ties�Turn the frame so you can access the left face easily.
Fasten the 4 corners of the control panel using zip ties.
Position the control panel so that the RAMPS board is on the left and the power supply is on the right.
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Final Assembly - Wiring
Step 25.1: Prepare to wire up the 3D printer�On the power supply, there are 9 terminals.
The top 3 terminals are positive (+) current.
The middle 3 terminals are for negative (-) current.
The bottom 3 terminals are for alternating current to be connected to this power supply so it can turn it into direct current.
For the instructions in the following steps, you’ll be guided to clamp wires into particular terminals. These can be done in an any order just as long as positive cables still go to a positive terminal and same with negative cables.
AC
DC+
DC-
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Wiring
Step 25.2: Connect RAMPS board to Power supply�To connect a cable to the power supply, you loosen the terminal with a screwdriver, insert the cable under the screw, then re-tighten the screw to secure the cable under the screw.
Connect the red wire to the 3rd terminal from the top.This is a positive terminal.
Connect the black wire to the 4th terminal from the top.This is a negative terminal.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Wiring
Step 25.3: Connect Extruder to power supply�Find the 8-inch red and black cable wire.
Attach one end to the rightmost pair of terminals on the green connector of the RAMPS board.
The black wire will go on the left, and the red wire on the right.
Attach the other red wire end to the 2nd terminal of the power supply, and the other black end to the 5th terminal of the power supply.
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Final Assembly - Wiring
Step 25.4: Add Heatbed cables to MOSFET�Use the 7 inch red-black cable and a screwdriver.
Connect the black wire to the bottom terminal of the MOSFET.
Connect the red wire to the terminal just above the black terminal of the MOSFET.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Wiring
Step 25.5: Connect Heatbed cables to power supply�Connect the red heatbed cable to the first top-most terminal on the power supply. This terminal is positive.
Connect the black heatbed cable to the 6th terminal of the power supply. This terminal is negative.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Wiring
Step 25.6: Connect Power Cable wires to Power supply�Find the 3-pronged power cable that has a green, white, and black wire inside of it.
Connect the green wire to the 3rd terminal from the bottom of the power supply. This is the ground terminal that keeps you safe by redirecting the current elsewhere if there’s a loose electrical wire.
Connect the white wire to the 2nd terminal from the bottom of the power supply. This is the neutral terminal.
Connect the black wire to bottom-most terminal of the power supply. This is the “hot” terminal which actually supplies the power.
Once power cord is connected, use one zip tie to connect it to the case so that if someone pulls on the power cord, the zip tie holds the stress instead of power supply wires breaking.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Wiring
Step 25.6: Connect Power Cable wires to Power supply�Find the 3-pronged power cable that has a green, white, and black wire inside of it.
Connect the green wire to the 3rd terminal from the bottom of the power supply. This is the ground terminal that keeps you safe by redirecting the current elsewhere if there’s a loose electrical wire.
Connect the white wire to the 2nd terminal from the bottom of the power supply. This is the neutral terminal.
Connect the black wire to bottom-most terminal of the power supply. This is the “hot” terminal which actually supplies the power.
Once power cord is connected, use one zip tie to connect it to the case so that if someone pulls on the power cord, the zip tie holds the stress instead of power supply wires breaking.
Zip tie power cord to power supply case
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Wiring
Step 26.1: Connect the X-Axis endstop to the RAMPS board�Use the 3-wire endstop cables. These have a white plug on one end and a thin black plug on the other end.
Connect the white end of the wire to the X Axis endstop, which is mounted on the X Axis motor piece.
Connect the black end to the RAMPS board on the top-most of the 3-set pins. The green wire must be on the right.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Wiring
Step 26.2: Connect the Y-Axis endstop to the RAMPS board�
Connect one end of the wire to the Y-Axis endstop, which is on the carriage.
Connect the other end to the RAMPS board on the fourth set of the 3-set pins. The green wire must be on the right.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Wiring
Step 27.1: Plug in the X-Axis stepper motor �The stepper motor wires have 4 colored strands.
Plug one end into the X-Axis motor.
Plug the other end into the RAMPS board between the top two Pololu drivers.
We have connected only the X motor at this point - and we start testing motion next.
The plugs are small. Make sure that all 4 pins are connected.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Wiring
Step 27.2: Quality Control Wiring �Plug in the power cable to a power outlet.
Plug a computer to the RAMPS board with a USB.
Once the control panel is connected to electricity and your computer, you should see the following things:
Green power supply light.
Green light on microcontroller visible from top
Red end stop light on X-Axis
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Motion Testing
Sub-module Introduction�3D Printer Testing�To test the 3d printer, we test each part separately, starting from simplest to test to more complex. This makes it easier to fix anything that might not be working.
Sub-module Functional Knowledge�3D Printer Testing�Each component of the 3d printer should be tested before attempting a 3d print.
The conceptual testing steps, which are outlined in detail in the next pages, are:
The next steps test each part of the printer step by step. Whenever unplugging or re-plugging cables on the RAMPS board it is critical that the power cable is UNPLUGGED. Disregarding this step can result in fire and damage to yourself or the printer.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Motion Testing - X
Step 28.1: Test drive the X-Axis Motor�Open Lulzbot Cura on your computer. Download a Test Cube - you must use a print file for the control panel to appear. Drag and drop the cube STL file into Cura. Click on the Control Button at the top of the screen. Then you will be taken to the Control Panel:
Move the X carriage by hand, and verify that it can trigger the X end stop. You will see the end stop light up when triggered.
Identify the reset button on the Arduino. It is a small button on the upper left hand side of the Arduino. Test press the button to ensure that your Arduino resets. With your finger on the reset button, hit the Home X button on the control panel. The X carriage should move either to the end stop and trigger the end stop - or away from the end stop. If the end stop triggers properly, you know the X motion works. If the motion is opposite of the end stop, you need to reverse the stepper motor direction.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Motion Testing
Step 28.2: Confirm the direction of the X-axis motor�
If the extruder moves incorrectly, unplug the power, flip the plug on the RAMPS board 180 degrees, plug in the power again, and then repeat the movement test.
Step 28.3: Press X Home�You should see the extruder travel to the left side, hit the end stop, move back slightly, and then retrigger. This is the desired and proper behavior. Do not move on unless you observe this behavior.
The end stop will click and light up when it is hit.
The x-axis is now correctly configured. You can press the right and left motion buttons on the Control Panel in Cura - and the X axis will move accordingly. Note that prior to homing, you would not be able to move the axis fully.
Step 28.4: Label the motor cable �Label the X-Axis motor cable with the following information:
Whenever unplugging or re-plugging cables on the RAMPS board it is critical that the power cable is UNPLUGGED. Disregarding this step can result in fire and damage to yourself or the printer.
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Final Assembly - Motion Testing
Step 29.1: Plug in the Y-Left stepper motor �Plug one end of a stepper motor wire into the Y-Left motor. Remember that power must be off before you do this.
Plug the other end into the RAMPS board below the X-Axis stepper motor wire.
Step 29.2: Test the Y-Left motor�Follow a similar procedure as for the X Axis motor - where you hit the Y homing button.
Y-Homing
Z-Homing
Home all axes
X-Homing
Y-L
Y-R
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Motion Testing
Step 29.2: Testing the Y-Left Motor
Do only one Y motor at a time to eliminate any ambiguity regarding which motor is working. When working on one Y motor at a time - note that using one motor to move both axes puts additional mechanical stress on the XY axis assembly.
Thus, hold one finger on the reset button, press the Y Home button in Cura - and as soon as you observe the motion, hit the reset button. Correct the motion as needed, and then label the cable before moving onto the second Y motor.
Step 29.4: Label the motor cable
Label the Y-Left Axis motor cable with the following information:
Relevant RAMPS Board Pins
Black, Red extruder power cable
Extruder large fan, heater cables
Heated Bed from MOSFET
� x-motor extruder-motor
y-left y-right
z-front, z-back
Extruder-
thermister
Thermister-
Heated bed
Exp2-cable Exp1-cable
X-axis endstop
Y-axis
-endstop
Z-probe
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Motion Testing
Step 30.1: Unplug the Y-Left stepper motor from the RAMPS board �We want to test the two Y-motors independently so unplug the Y-Left motor for now while we test the Y-Right motor just like the Y-Left motor. Remember to unplug power when disconnecting stepper wires.
Step 30.2: Plug in the Y-Right stepper motor �Plug one end of a stepper motor wire into the Y-Right motor.
Plug the other end into the RAMPS board into the set of plugs to the right of where you had the Y-Left motor plugged into.
Step 30.3: Test the Y-Right motor �Test and correct the Y-right motor just like you did for the Y-Left motor.
Step 30.4: Label the motor cable
Label the Y-Right Axis motor cable with the following information:
Y-L
X
Y-L
Y-R
Y-R
Y-L
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Motion Testing
Step 31.1: Re-plug the Y-Left stepper motor �After testing each Y-motor independently, go ahead and plug the Y-Left motor in to the RAMPS board again.
Press Y-Home in CURA to now test both motors at the same time.
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Motion Testing - Z
Step 32: Connect the Extruder Motor�Connect one end of a stepper motor wire to the Extruder motor and the other end to the RAMPS board, across from the X-Axis motor plug.
Step 33.1: Plug in the Z-Front stepper motor and test
Follow the same procedure as the Y axes, testing one Z
motor at a time. Note that the axes should drop for 1-2
seconds before beginning to move up.
Step 33.2: Unplug the Z-Front stepper motor and label the
Z-front Wire. Test the Z-Back motor by itself and label when
done.
Step 33.3: Home the Z Axes
Reconnect both Z motors. Plug in the Z probe, with green wire to the right. Home the Z axes to make sure that they move up towards the extruder. Reset the controller when you see the axes moving as they should.
Y-R
Z Probe
Z Motor Plug
Note that the 2 z motor plugs are next to each other. It does not matter which motor is connected to which plug as long as the plug has the right orientation.
2 Z Plugs
Z
Z
E
Y-L
Y-L
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Final Assembly - Small Fan
Step 34.1: Connect the small (heat sink) fan �Connect the exposed ends of the small fan into the power supply. Exactly where doesn’t matter except that the fan’s red wire must go into a positive terminal and the black wire must go into a negative terminal.
Since the terminals are already all filled up, we will be doubling up on a pair of terminals by doing this (as pictured).
Step 34.2: Test small fan �Plug in the printer and confirm the fan is blowing in the correct direction, towards the heat sink.
Unplug the printer.
Since the fan is connected directly to the power supply, it should always be running whenever the printer is plugged in.
It is convenient to connect the fan wires to the top-most and bottom-most terminals, where there is most space.
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Extruder Connection
Step 35.1: Connect the Extruder thermistor��Make sure the printer is unplugged. ��The extruder thermistor is a pair of thin red and black wires. Plug it in to the RAMPS board on the top pair of yellow pins.
Step 35.2: Connect the Extruder heater
Plug the blue wires in to the last pair of terminals on the blue plug area of RAMPS board, labeled “Heat 1”.
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Final Assembly - Heat Bed
Step 36: Connect large fan
Connect the red and black pair of large fan wires to the middle pair of terminals on the blue block labeled “Heat 2”. The red wire on the left and the black wire on the right.
This fan cools down the area around the nozzle so that the heated plastic quickly turns into solid after it comes out of the nozzle.
Step 35: Connect MOSFET signal wires to the RAMPS board�The MOSFET cables are small white cables that come out of the MOSFET.
These cables go into the left-most pair of terminals on the blue block of the RAMPS board, labeled “Heat Bed”. The left wire from the MOSFET should go into the left-most terminal on RAMPS.
Step 36: Connect heatbed wires to MOSFET
Connect the red and black pair of cables from the heatbed to the MOSFET. This is how the heat bed will receive its power.
Insert the red wire to the top terminal and the black wire to the terminal directly below.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Heat Bed
Step 37.1: Connect heatbed thermistor��Plug in the heatbed thermistor directly below the extruder thermistor - on the next pair of pins on the RAMPS board.
Step 37.2: Confirm temperature is being read on Extruder��The Control Screen should show the room temperature, probably around 25 degrees (Celsius).
Nozzle Temperature
Heat Bed Temperature
Extrude filament
Retract filament
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Extrusion
Step 37.3: Set the temperature to 200 degrees�This tests that the extruder temperature can be increased.
Step 37.4: Prepare to extrude when the temperature is around 200 degrees�When the temperature is close 200 degrees, the program will allow you to test extrusion of filament through the nozzle.
Step 38: Feed the filament into the extruder�Press extruder button in Cura while putting the filament in. It should be grabbed and you can feel the filament moving in.
If extruder is not grabbing the filament, then press the extruder button in Cura in the other direction (retract). If the filament pulls in while pressing the Retract button - then you need to reverse the stepper motor plug.
If the filament isn’t feeding and the direction of the extruder motor is correct - then there may be a mechanical issue. Try inserting filament again after straightening the filament or cutting a narrow point on the filament.
Once filament is loaded, you are ready to test extrusion and printing..
In our experience, the Prusa i3 MK2 had persistent clogging issues - so we upgraded to the Titan Aero extruder.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - X axis
Motion testing
First Motion Procedure[edit]
When you click Home, the expected behavior is:
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - Y and Z axis
motion testing
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - First Print Checklist
Step 44.1: First Print Setup Checklist
At this point the entire machine has been built to a functional state. Now we itemize all the requirements for verification of common issues.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - First Print Checklist
These steps help make the cables in your 3d printer more accessible by getting less frequently used cables plugged in first.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - First Print Checklist
3. In this bed-at-the-bottom position, check if it’s level.
4. If necessary, setup the filament holder.
III. Instructional
Final Procedure for First Print
Heating[edit]
Once all motion has been verified, it's time for the extruder and heatbed.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - First Print
5. Calibrate the Idler thumb screw
6. Prep machine to test extrrude
7. Test extrusion in 3 ways
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - First Print
5. Calibrate the Idler thumb screw
6. Prep machine to test extrrude
7. Test extrusion in 3 ways
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - First Print
8. Set the z-offset �Press the z-home button in Cura.
The heated bed should move down initially for about half an inch, then starting moving towards the nozzle until it reaches the point at which it will generally print.
You will need to approximate the distance between the heated bed at its highest level and the nozzle.
This should be somewhere between 0.5-1.5 mm.
If it is not in this range, adjust the z-probe in the sensor holder so that it’s closer or farther away from the heated bed.
Based on your best approximiation, enter the distance that you imagine into the control panel by clicking:
Based on this minor adjustment, the the printer will move closer to the bed when it actually prints. This calibration is important for getting a good first layer print. A good first layer is important because it ensures that the 3d printer is printing objects on a stable foundation.
See next page for extra information on the z-probe and measuring this distance correctly.
III. Instructional
Final Assembly - First Print
8. Set the z-offset �Press the z-home button in Cura.
The heated bed should move down initially for about half an inch, then starting moving towards the nozzle until it reaches the point at which it will generally print.
You will need to approximate the distance between the heated bed at its highest level and the nozzle.
This should be somewhere between 0.5-1.5 mm.
If it is not in this range, adjust the z-probe in the sensor holder so that it’s closer or farther away from the heated bed.
Note about the sensor holder:�The z-probe sensor is an inductive sensor that uses a magnet wire to detect a change in its own magnetic field when it gets close to metal. The range of this z-probe is set to send a signal when there is a metal 4mm away from it. In practice, this means you want to align the sensor head so that it is even with the flat part of the nozzle where the nozzle tip begins to come out.
What is 1mm?�1mm is the width of a finely clipped finger nail, where there is a thin line of nail still visible.
2mm is the width of the edge of a razor blade where it cuts -- not the sharp end that cuts itself, but the part of the blade that begins to thin into a cutting edge.
IV. Troubleshooting
Final Assembly - Tight Axes
Troubleshooting
Take the tape off the bearings.
That will loose it up so that there’s more play.
Remove tape on one side only.
Liekly to be tight on the ends.
Open up the y-right carriage and remove the tape.
You can loosen just one side because the other side will keep it exatly parallel.
==
Test:
Print at 400%, then it’s loose enough.
Toubleshooting:
Put a shim somewhere.
If it’s not loose somewhere, then it’s not parallel.
There’s slight play in the bearings. There’s still slight give. Within that you have to be parallel.
Design considerations:�* cannot be more accurage than half a mm, �* if it’s a little off, then it will clamp up near the ends of the axes.
IV. Troubleshooting
Final Assembly -
Measure voltage on stepper drivers
If you hear a noise.
Check voltage with voltmeter.
Put the black and red on the following:
Match the colors, because you are testing what the potential energy difference is between the two locations.
IV. Troubleshooting
Final Assembly
Belt Too Short�My belt is too short to tension as expected.
Use masking tape or another kind of tape.
Tape the appropriately sized belt together
Pull the belt through the motor half piece so that it is threaded around the motor idler just like the previous belt.
Now put the belt throught he idler piece.
IV. Troubleshooting
Final Assembly - Fix Nut Under Bed
Special Step 1: Loosen the z-axis rods connection to the y-axis
Note: this method only works when there’s 1-2 nuts that’s unattached or not 100% flat on one rod. If you have nut(s) that are incorrectly attached on both rods, then you need to use sandpaper to detatch the heated bed completely and start from scratch.
Step 3.2:: Prepare for JB Qwik Weld.
IV. Troubleshooting
Final Assembly
The most common issue is Y motion tightening up because the X axis wasn’t fit correctly. This will be an issue most likely near the ends of the rods. In the middle of the rods - the rods can bend and allow motion to happen. But towards the end of the rods - the frame constrains them and prevents them from flexing. If your Y axes bind up - go back and redo the X axis fitting procedure carefully. Also loosen the screws going into the X axis nut-catchers to determine if the X axis is pulling excessively on the Y axes. Here are 5 issues and their solutions:
IV. Troubleshooting
Clogs
Next:�At last resort, remove the extruder head to fully investigate what’s happening.
Expose the heat sink by removing all the pieces of the extruder.
Remove the heat sink. Use a welding wire to poke through the heat sink.
Look for where there might be plastic stuck.
Use a heat gun to heat up the heat sink or othe robject where the plastic is tuck.
This will let you push out the plastic that is trapped in the heat sink or other area.
IV. Troubleshooting
Bed Leveling + Clogs
When nozzle was 3mm away, it triggered.
Therefore the distance between the probe and the nozzle.
The probe might hit the prints.
The higher it triggers.
Look for where the nozzle ends up above the bed. This is currently 3mm.
Is the probe high or low?
That means the probe should be moved up a bit.
There is a danger that the probe could hit an object that is being 3d printed.
Shoot for about 1mm between the nozzle and the heated bed during the z-probe.
Cold pull:
Push it in at 230 degrees celcius.
Wait till it gets to 120 celcius. Then pull it out. Maybe it gooed into it. Then loosen the tension wires, then pull the wire.
Next: �Remove nozzle with wrench + vice grips.�Heat it up again to see if plastic drips out.
Next again:�Heat up to 210. See if you can push the liquid plastic through with hard plastic. Do a quick push because you don’t want the plastic to actually melt, You want it to push the mushy stuff out.
Next again:�Remove the power from the small fan. Heat it up again. Be careful because you can be melting everything. But this is how the palstic got stuck in the first place, so now the heat will rise much higher.
IV. Troubleshooting
Motion Testing - Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting[edit]
IV. Troubleshooting
Motion Testing Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting[edit]
In this process, what enables motor movement is electricity and signal. The power supply provides electricity. That provides power to the RAMPS board. Through diagonsis, see which parts of the control panel provide
V. Completion Checklist
Final Assembly
VI. Design Considerations
Final Assembly
Power supply size�The 3d printer only needs 12 Volts to operate, so why is it so big?
Why is it so big? Because of its safety features. Complexity could be simplified by using a breaker instead. 360W, which is 3Amps of AC. You can be safe, avoid complexity, and mill a version with the circuit mill if you simply include a breaker instead of all the safety circuitry. It’s $20 so not expensive but it’s large in size.