The Keffiyeh
Cultural Artefact
By Faiza 😙
كُوفِيَّة
What is a Keffiyeh?
The Keffiyeh (كُوفِيَّة in arabic) is a middle eastern headdress originally worn by men, however it has become popularised by all demographics and a symbol for Palestine. It is a square piece of cotton and woven with designs that represent different aspects of Palestinian culture. It is typically white and black or white and red, depending on the region.
It has gained more relevance as a symbol of resistance during various revolutions and occupations, particularly in Palestine. Keffiyehs are worn on the head or as a scarf around the neck and even cover the face, which is done to hide resistance fighters’ identities.
The colour, style and symbolism in the keffiyeh can differ from each region to another. Often, an agal (عِقَال) is used to keep the keffiyeh in place - this is traditionally made of goat hair (McDonald, 2024)
Palestinians seen at a polling station in the West Bank town of Hebron in 2006. Lior Mizrahi/Getty Images
Pattern & Design
Bold lines represent historical trade routes that went through Palestine, including the Silk Road
Fishnet designs represents Palestine’s connection to the mediterranean sea; they have a history with fishing and sailors
Curvy lines represent the leaves on olive trees, which is a symbol of pride and identity for Palestinians rooted in their land. It also represents:
Some of the oldest olive trees grow in Palestine, and are a primary source of food and oil for the country’s income.
(Darwish, 2023)
(Mohammad, 2023)
Early Keffiyeh (Origins)
The origins of the keffiyeh can be traced back to the Sumerians in Mesopotamia circa 3100 BC. It represented high ranks and honour, especially among priests.
However, it eventually became a head covering for peasants, who wore the keffiyeh while working to protect them from the sun and sand. During colder weather, it was worn against the cold and rain (handmadepalestine 2018).
The scarf is believed to have given this name from Kufa, which is a city in Iraq. This is where its use reappeared in the 7th century. Since then, it has become part of various Arab cultures, such as Jordan, Syria, and Palestine. However, the names varied from each region - other names included shemagh and ghutra. (Maisey, 2024).
How the Keffiyeh Changed Over Time
1930’s
During the Arab Revolt against the British mandate, protestors wore the keffiyeh as an effective way to hide their identities from the authorities. Even after the British banned it, Palestinians continued to wear the scarf as a symbol of unity. This kept going until the keffiyeh gained popularity in urban areas (McDonald, 2024)
Throughout the 1900’s and even today, the use of the keffiyeh has become more political. While it still has practical uses such as covering the user’s face, it’s mainly a public display of their support for Palestine
How the Keffiyeh Changed Over Time
1960’s
Yasser Arafat, the leader of the Palestine Liberation Organisation (PLO), wore the keffiyeh to diplomatic meetings and public appearances. It was prohibited to fly the Palestinian flag in Gaza and the West Bank by Israel (1967 - 1993), so the keffiyeh acted as a substitute flag for rallies protesting against the Israeli government. (McDonald, 2024)
Throughout the 1900’s and even today, the use of the keffiyeh has become more political. While it still has practical uses such as covering the user’s face, it’s mainly a public display of their support for Palestine
How the Keffiyeh Changed Over Time
1970’s
Leila Khaled, a member of the Popular Front for the Liberation of Palestine (PFLP), started wearing the keffiyeh as a hijab or wrapped around her neck, which gained traction in the media. It deviated from the gender norm of only men wearing the keffiyeh, and led to people of all ages and genders to start wearing it too (McDonald, 2024).
Throughout the 1900’s and even today, the use of the keffiyeh has become more political. While it still has practical uses such as covering the user’s face, it’s mainly a public display of their support for Palestine
Social Trends (Positive)
As the previous slides showed, the keffiyeh started becoming a political symbol of resistance for Palestine. It was used to replace the Palestinian flag when it was banned, and continues to be used as a physical display of peoples’ support for Palestine.
Leila Khaled’s contribution to the movement has broken gender norms and opened up the opportunity for more demographics to wear keffiyehs - bringing more awareness to the resistance in Palestine. It became mainstream in fashion, as retailers started selling keffiyehs as fashion accessories. While non-Palestinians must be careful when wearing it, it can be a great show of solidarity for the Palestinians.
Social Trends (Negative)
However, the increase in keffiyeh popularity has resulted in other trends that dilute its original purpose. In other words, its designs are being culturally appropriated by large corporations that take advantage of these issues and exploit the struggles of the palestinians. It’s considered insensitive and disrespectful by Palestinians. This is because the companies do not give tribute to Palestine and only released these designs for profit (Bramley, 2019)
Luxury brands like Cecilie Copenhagen embedded keffiyeh patterns to their dress as part of their autumn/winter collection.
Cecilie Copenhagen
Louis Vuitton
Balenciaga
Dorit Baror
Demographic Influences
Harvard students have been wearing Keffiyehs and the Harvard College Palestinian Solidarity Committee organises scarf-wearing each week as an ongoing campaign called “Keffiyeh Thursday”. Other students from UBC, Texas A&M, and MIT have also joined this movement. The keffiyeh and its symbolism has spread across young adults all over the world. Even in the university encampments today, many are wearing the keffiyeh as a visible form of protest.
The PSC chose the keffiyeh due to its history as an iconic and visible marker of cultural identity for Palestinians.
“This year has been really special because you have a group of students who are so enthusiastic about spreading this cause,” said Tabash, a PSC Organiser.
“Having a day in the week that is devoted to expressing solidarity, which is in effect expressing hope, I think that’s really powerful,” Tabash said
(Jones & Vobecky, 2022)
Socioeconomic Influences
As the keffiyeh gains popularity, its demand has increased all over the world. Hirbawi, the only manufacturer of keffiyehs left in the West Bank, has increased their sales since October 2023, as a growing number of Americans want to show their support for Palestine.
Unit sales of the keffiyeh scarves have risen 75% from October 7th to December 2nd on Amazon. The searches for “Palestinian scarf for women” also rose by 159%. And “keffiyeh Palestine” by 75%. While some companies exploit the keffiyeh, many use their profits from keffiyeh sales to donate to Palestine (Shalal et al., 2023).
“In two days, the stock that we had was just gone, and not just gone, it was oversold,” said Azar Adhayev, a U.S. distributor for Hirbawi
Izzat Hirbawi shows a keffiyeh in a textile factory in Hebron in the Israeli-occupied West Bank January 24,2023
Relevance Of These Trends
Though the keffiyeh has brought negative trends, it has brought light to a bigger issue - the Palestinian cause. It is an ode to freedom, a nod to heritage, and a symbol of national identity for Palestinians. Even non-Palestinian activists began to use the scarf in solidarity.
On a deeper level, it brings awareness to the ongoing war and violation of human rights in Palestine - if more people wear the keffiyeh, especially in the west, it forces everyone to focus their attention on the war. Moreover, it allows these protestors to expose the investments that many western organisations and universities make to companies that have ties to Israel. For people who are less aware, it informs them of where their money actually goes and rethink their monetary choices.
People have started wearing them casually, during everyday life. It is a small but effective way to spread awareness and prove people's’ support for Palestine
References
Darwish, M. (2023, November 10). The olive branch. Atmos. https://atmos.earth/overview-palestine-olive-trees-symbolism-ceasefire/#:~:text=Like%20a%20number%20of%20its,branches%20forced%20displacement%20from%20it.
Mohammad, L. (2023, December 6). What is a keffiyeh, who wears it, and how did it become a symbol for Palestinians?. NPR. https://www.npr.org/2023/12/06/1216150515/keffiyeh-hamas-palestinians-israel-gaza#:~:text=Some%20say%20patterns%20on%20the,lines%20resemble%20olive%20trees%2C%20a
Sottile, Z. (2023, November 28). The Palestinian keffiyeh explained: How this scarf became a national symbol. CNN. https://edition.cnn.com/2023/11/28/style/style-palestinian-keffiyeh-explained/index.html#:~:text=But%20keffiyehs%20of%20all%20colors,as%20shawls%20across%20the%20shoulders.
Fairtrade Gifts from Palestine | Handmade Palestine. (2018, September 23). The history of Keffiyeh: A traditional scarf from Palestine. Fairtrade Gifts from Palestine | Handmade Palestine. https://handmadepalestine.com/blogs/news/history-of-keffiyeh-the-traditional-palestinian-headdress
Maisey, S. (2024, May 15). Nakba Day: The complex history of the Palestinian keffiyeh. The National. https://www.thenationalnews.com/lifestyle/fashion-beauty/2024/05/15/palestinian-keffiyeh-scarf-history/#:~:text=Origins%20and%20early%20use,denote%20high%20status%20and%20priesthood.
McDonald, W. (2024, May 4). Keffiyeh. Encyclopædia Britannica. https://www.britannica.com/topic/kaffiyeh
References
Bramley, E. V. (2019, August 9). The keffiyeh: Symbol of Palestinian struggle falls victim to fashion. The Guardian. https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/aug/09/the-keffiyeh-symbol-of-palestinian-struggle-falls-victim-to-fashion
Shalal, A., Hay, A., & Cavale, S. (2023, December). US sales of Palestinian keffiyehs soar, even as wearers targeted | Reuters. US sales of Palestinian keffiyehs soar, even as wearers targeted. https://www.reuters.com/world/us/us-sales-palestinian-keffiyehs-soar-even-wearers-targeted-2023-12-05/
Jones, E. J., & Vobecky, M. I. (2022, February 22). Students Don traditional Palestinian scarves in support of Palestine: News: The Harvard Crimson. News | The Harvard Crimson. https://www.thecrimson.com/article/2022/2/22/psc-keffiyeh-thursdays/
Fayyad, A. (2023, December 6). How the keffiyeh became a symbol of the Palestinian cause. Vox. https://www.vox.com/2023/12/6/23990673/keffiyeh-symbolism-palestinian-history