HANS RAJ MAHILA MAHA VIDYALAYA JALANDHAR

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EMBROIDERY OF

JAMMU AND KASHMIR

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Subject: Historical study of fashion and textile

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Dr Rakhi Mehta

Head Design Dept.

Hans Raj Mahila Maha Vidyalaya, Jalandhar

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INTRODUCTION

Just as its beauty ,Kashmir's history is unique. The handicrafts of Kashmir are as breathtaking as the lush green valley hosts the beautiful are of Kashmir embroidery is as the old as the Muslim culture of the place.

The first thing that comes to our minds when we think of Kashmir garments is the intricate embroidery that adorns them whether it is pashmina shawls, dress material, kaftans, kurtas/ kurtis, sarees or even bags.

It is also popularly known as ‘kashida’ embroidery, kashidkari in full. That’s for the kashmiris through. The embroidery seeks inspiration from nature all around. PopulaR

Design include flower, leaves, trees, blooms,creepers etc.

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HISTORY OF KASHMIRI EMBROIDERY

The kashida is one of the oldest forms of embroidery in India. It is a centuries old art. The history of embroidery in Kashmir can be tracked back to as early as the 15^th century. However, it was during the Mughal rule( around 16^th century) that the textile industry in Kashmir saw a major surge.

The Mughal emperors are known to have patronized it. It was during this time that Kashmiri shawls and other Kashmir shawls and other Kashmir garments started becoming popular around the world . Similarly, the Kashmir embroidery too started shaping up and became an important part of various Kashmiri textiles. And since then, its demand has grown multifold

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THE AARI OR CREWELS EMBROIDERY

Even though is origin is unknown, it can be traced back to as early as the medieval period. This kind of embroidery is locally known as Zalakdozi It is a very old technique but also very popular. The crewel embroidery makes use of a painted crochet or an ‘Aari’ as the needle.This form of embroidery can be done on cotton, wool, velvet as well as other fabrics. This embroidery can be commonly seen on curtains, drapes and other upholstery, bedding, dress materials etc. Woolen or art silk thread is used for this particular embroidery. Mostly,

The chain stich is used for the crewel embroidery.

THE SOZNI EMBROIDERY

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This forms of embroidery is quite different from the Aari embroidery. A need is used in sozni embroidery. The Sonzi embroidery can commonly be found on shawls, jackets, dress material etc. The work that goes into this embroidery is very intricate. Popular motifs for this embroidery are absent geometric designs, paisley pattern. The Sonzi embroidery is exclusive only to Kashmir and can not be found anywhere else. The satin stitch is used for making this type of embroidery.

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THE TILLA EMBROIDERY

• Another type of Kashmiri embroidery is the ‘Tilla embroidery’. This kind of embroidery is done with golden or silver threads. It is mostly done on the kashmiri traditional garment called Phiran. But now, it can also be commonly seen on shawls and saris. The beautiful Tilla embroidery adorns ethnic wear and gives it is a royal touch.
• This classic type of embroidery is a true epitome of grace and class. Initially real gold and silver were used for the embroidery. Only the rich could afford this luxury it super popular among the royals. However now, just gold and silver colored threads are used.

THE AMLI EMBROIDERY

The Amli embroidery makes use of multi- colored threads. It is relatively a new type of embroidery. This embroidery is mostly seen on the Female garments and jamevar shawls.

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STITCHES USED IN KASHMIRI EMBROIDERY

• Many different stiches are used in the kasmiri embroidery. The Kashmiri embroidery stiches are as follow:-
• THE CHAIN STITCH This technique involves creating a loop of stiches which end up looking like a chain and hence the name, chain stitch.
• THE SATIN STITICH Another one of the kashmiri embroidery stitches is the satin stitch. This kind of stitch is usually used to cover large surface

• THE STIN STITCH

This type of stich is mostly used to embroider the boundaries of a design/ motif

• THE DARNING STICH

This method involves making rows of straight stiches which are placed next to each other

• THE BUTTONHOLE STITCH

This form of stitching is used to cover or fill large areas.

• THE HERRING BONE STITCH This stitch is used for making border

KASHMIRI EMBRODERY MOTIFS

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Mostly nature forms the basis for Kashmir embroidery motifs, since Kashmir is so beautifully blessed with abundant natural beauty, the embroidery artists need not look anywhere else for inspiration. Chinar leaves are the main motif of Kashmir embroidery popular motifs including flower like lilies, tulips, saffron and lotuses, leaves, twigs, fruits like grapes, apples, mangoes, almonds and cherries and various birds like parrots, woodpeckers and king fishers. Geometric design and paisley patterns are also quite common. These element together forms the base for Kashmir embroidery design

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Various Kashmir embroidery design include floral design animal design, hunting design etc.

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FACTS OF KASHMIRI EMBROIDERY

• All embroiders use ‘NYATH’ which acts as protection to their fingers. They are leather finger caps or thimbles. Without the use of these artists can develop holes in their fingers.
• Men in Kashmir are known to do the finest embroidery.
• Every piece after its embroidered gets washed.
• Kashmiri embroidery is an art that required almost dedication, patience and precision. Initially only men are involved in the embroidery process in Kashmiri. A son inherited this art from his father. But now since the last few years, women have started participating too.

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• It takes years and years practice to master this art most men who are involved in this profession usually begin practicing in early age, around the age of 9 or 10 with their family and then work up their way to expertise. It is due to their work up their hard work that this traditional art form is still so well preserved and recognized all around the world.
• Material use for embroidery

Base Cloth, fine silk or cotton or wool threads, Aari or needle, Scissor and experience and patience to do the art.

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