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ToC - 2

Plumbing and PEX Subassemblies - 166-186

Pervious Pavement
Transfer Switch Wiring Detail
Inverter, AC Disconnect, DC Disconnect
Subpanel + Transfer Switch vBOM
Meter Riser

Design

Service Entrance Grounding Wires
Main Panel Submodule

Main Panel Build Instructions

Main Panel Chase Submodule
Inverter Conduit Lengths
Meter Base vBOM
Heat Pump Procedure

Disconnect
Mount
Exerior Unit
Blocking
Aperture
Interior Unit Mounting
Connecting Lines + Power
Test
Completion - Downspout, Drain

Inverter

Device Mounting
Combiner
Wire + Penetration

Bath Fans

Floor 1
Floor 2

Cooktop
Main Vent

Design Method Narrative

Component vBOM - CAD - Routing - Blocking+Penetrations - Subassembly vBOM - Build Cheatsheet

Meta: process starts with selecting optimal parts, locating, them, routing connections and penetrations, locating blocking for penetrations. When everything is located in the building, we move on to thinking how we build: which subassemblies fit together so that we can maximize the work done during the benchtop prep phase - so that the least figuring-things-out has to be done on site? Once we have Subassembly Prep, we go to overall build procedure.

Start with part selection in Component vBOM.
Do CAD Design to begin locating everything.
Routing of wires and plumbing will lead to positioning refinements in CAD.
Blocking + Penetrations technical design follows routing.
Then we move on to Subassembly decisions - documented in Subassembly vBOMs. Which parts fit on which subassembly to create the most effective build process? General rule: preassemble the most difficult parts. Work on the most difficult-to-open/assemble subassemblies on the benchtop to set up the final assembly for success.
Build Cheatsheets - based on Subassemblies, Cheatsheets carry only the essential information.

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Driveway to Walkway

Driveway to Garage Detail

Top View

Side View

Top View

Driveway Base

50’ to road

Porch

Garage

Road

Use geogrid + Holland stone edging identical to the way the driveway is done
Provides a smooth, well-designed look

Which makes me think: why not use the holland stone edging as the gravel skirt? Cost for 400 pavers needed is only $200!

paver

Geogrid

Garage

insulation

8” width

Garage

Driveway

Pavers (lowng way)

Porch

Pavers (lowng way)

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Driveway to Road Interface

DIY Pervious concrete

Geogrid 2” height

Screed layer 1.5” on top of 1” steel pipe

Base correction (1.5”)

Drain (open grade) base 4”)

Holland stone

Geotextile

Fill with crack sand

Road

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Interfaces

Driveway to grass
Drive to road
Drive to walk
Walkway to porch
House Skirt to porch and driveway
Driveway to retaining wall
Red holland stone

DIY Pervious concrete

Geogrid 2” height

Screed layer 1.5” on top of 1” steel pipe

Soil base

Base correction (1.5”)

Drain (open grade) base 4”)

Holland stone

Geotextile

8” wide

10’ wide

Red pea gravel top layer? Or dark?

Red-Black Paver

Concrete edge

Soil level

“Unlike asphalt and other options, gravel paved driveways can last a lifetime with proper maintenance.” 100 years. Decades. Indefinitely.

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Hardscape Concept

Driveway

Design rationale: make curves, not straight
Use Geogrid + sound edge strategy
Key is: interfaces

between geogrid and grass - THE EDGE
To house gravel skirt
To walkway
Walkway to front porch

DIY Pervious concrete

Retaining wall

Mowable on top and bottom
Clean interface to driveway

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Living Retaining Walls

Engineered systems - whole other body for integration
Geotextile can be used.
Other bodies: living walls and living roofs

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Driveway with PP

Driveway

20-24’ wide
20x20+ 30*10 = 700 sf
Apron and driveway size:

Technique:

Excavate 10” -with wide bucket or Bobcat
Add 7” road base A
Add sand for easy scree
Pavers are 3”
Compact it

Maintentance

Too much for crack pavers
Porous vs pervious vs permeable

$4.50/sf

Compact and Smooth: once again the hard part.

Core Drive

$10/sf

Permeable base is advised for nonpermeable pavers

61 cents

$7/sf

$3/sf

75 cents/sf

DIY Pervious concrete

Bed Prep on top before surface layer

Correct the base

Separate corrected base for strength

Woven Geotex plastic

Any paver can be used to make pervious? Yes - ¼” gap Gator Spacer. Can use porcelain tile outside. Use ¼”-10 for cracks

Can walk or drive on it. Permeable interlocking concrete pavement. See Belgard Permeable Pavers

Truegrid quote $10/sf

Geoblock

Basecore

Hydrapavers

2 oz - 480 oz / 200 sq yd

5.2 oz geotextile

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Pervious pavement and Retaining wall

Retaining Wall:

Stone vs wood for retaining wall?
How to Build
Technique: leveling the first course is the key. Once you do that, it rolls fast. There are 4 ways: individual on gravel; on mortar; on slab; on leveling block - which could be reused pavers. Precast slabs save 70% the time.

Pervious pavement:

Geogrid-type = advanced gravel
Cinder block
Plastic
Other
Poured

Calculations:

REtaining wall block - 9 layers *48 = 432 block - *$1.5 = $643

7344 lb

Cap block

3.5x11.5 “

Geogrid

Truegrid

Hole 20” Wide - 4” in front and back.

6” gravel base

Gravel drain behind

50’ by 3’ tall - all summer project and $1000

Glue down top layer

Time:

1.25 hr/foot of low wall

$4.50/sf

4x8x2.4”

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Build Cheatsheets: Gravel Skirt Box - CAD

Concept:

Stained 2x6 next to the vinyl foundation insulation skirt - part of a long box that is 12" wide - all around house.
2" of vinyl skirt exposed above, so top of box is 2" below start of vinyl siding
Horizontal insulation below box 12" wide
Filled with dirt
polyethylene + Landscape fabric on top of dirt, then 2" of pea gravel
Rebar stakes to hold the correct height.

But, maybe rather make the box of 2x4s, shallower and not as much filling of dirt, since I'll be doing this. As long as the edges are clean, and rebar support is good - one will not tell the difference and 2x4 will be less work for dirt filling.

Or maybe even narrow it down to 6" wide - then it's almost trivial for earth filling - and the core purpose of hiding skirt and keeping bottom clean from splashing or skirt free from grass for mowing - 6" would achieve that. What do you think?

- Would a 6" box protect 12" of insulation? Won't the remaining 6" just be exposed and visible?

- Won't a 2x4 box be 4" below the vinyl and still show a lot of the ugly vinyl skirt we're trying to hide?

- The rebar stakes should be inside the box and not visible

- How about a box that uses a 2x4 on the back (against the house) and a 2x6 in front. If you're using 2" insulation, the 2x4 would sit on top of the insulation and the 2x6 in front of it. This way you'd have the height of a 2x6 but only 3.5" to fill above the insulation. As for the depth: the box should probably cover the whole 12" of insulation, but you don't need to fill it with dirt and gravel all the way to the top. Fill just 2" and leave the top 1.5" empty.

Steps:

Take 2x4 and ¼”. Stain all sides.

33’10” front + 4’ + 16’ + 64’ back + 20’ side=137’ total x2
Twice + a few joining pieces every 4’ -> 17’ more.
291’ grand total 18.2 sticks of 16’ - $209

Chalk line.
Attach the Support Pieces with 3.25” HDG nails to the House Attachment
Attach one member against house all around - so you have easy access for screws - use the trick for regular screws as concrete screws - we need 1.5” wood + 2” insulation + 1.5”+ into foundation = 5”+ screws

Drill first ¼” hole - attach lumber, predrill through wood and insulation to mark all other holes/ Use predrilled lumber as template for screw holes.
Attach 1 end of 16’ first. Attach other end - predrill wood+ insulation then rest is concrete bit. Fill in all holes in between - 1-4-7-10–13-16 - or six holes per 16 feet of lumber.

Attach 2nd Side to support pieces with 3.25” HDG nails.

Ruspert® Blue

Hard to find 5” tapcons.

+Copper wiremmmmmm,

Support piece

House attachment

2nd side

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Apertures 4

Heat pump missing

Garage to light

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Apertures 3

Vent pipe curve addressed with 9’ wall

End plumbing, now electrical

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Apertures 2

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Apertures

General:

List all types of apertures.
Add at the framing + blocking level

Tub - water - vent

Hose Bib

Cut out all of cavity rectangle and save on drilling 9 holes: shower 2, main vent, cold water to 2nd shower, wires (4 including 2GFCI), hot water, 2nd sink drain. Then entire cavity is filled with unfaced insulation.

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Seed Eco-Home Aperture Theory

Significance of Penetrations

Penetrations are a crucial aspect of house building, and if planned and not an afterthought - saves thousands of dollars on the cost of a house. They are a critical aspect of interface design. There is a vast number of penetration types, and how each is done determines the efficiency of a build. Appropriate technique and tooling must be done for each. All the penetration types and their considerations are listed here.
Apertures are related to blocking, as some of the apertures require blocking for the device held (heat pump, disconnect, exterior outlets

Penetration Detailing - there are 3 main classes based on the area of the house:

(1) Exterior MEP Pentrations - penetrations for all MEP that serves the house, done at the exterior framing stage. There is a complication in terms of alignment of some exterior devices so that penetrations do not go through the ribs of vinyl siding to minimize water intrusion. Given the specific 12” vinyl siding width, we can plan for this - such as height of the meter base, main panel, heat pump disconnect, main stack vent. But we may not be able to plan for cooktop vent + bath vents, which are fixed by interior design. And, there are 3 exterior lights in vinyl mounting boxes, which is addressed at the vinyl installation stage. All exterior MEP should be built in at the Exterior Module Build Phase. Including 3 exterior lights, exterior outlets (2), disconnect, heat pump, and later - cooktop + bath vent.
(2) Interior MEP Penetrations - through studs and floors, primarily electrical, with some water and plumbing. Notching + protectors is used in all cases unless a drill-through is unavoidable. All interior MEP should be built in at the Interior Module Build Phase and Marking Phase. The marking phase is when bottom and top plates, and outstanding penetrations through the double wall floor are done: such as 2nd toilet, 2nd bath, main stack, 2nd floor drain; hot and cold water; and electrical to vanity GFCI, vanity lights, and bath vent fan. These penetrations shoudl be shared whenever possible. There are specialized ceiling light closures with light penetrations and access panel - also bult at the interior module phase.
(3) Interior device mounting penetrations - through interior sheathing - electrical boxes, appliances, heat pump MEP hole, washer, water supply, water shutoff compartment.
Penetrations are done at an initial foundation phase, exterior module build phase, initial interior phase (2nd bath ceiling), marking (double wall penetrations + bath vents? + hood vent?), interior module build - and most at the beadboard installation phase where electrical boxes are installed - and then the final wave of penetrations in the utility channel beadboard strips.

Interior Electrical wire through studs - never done. We use the Utility Channel instead. In cases where we cannot avoid penetrations - we notch studs instead of drilling to avoid threading wire through holes, and then use protector plates. In rare cases only must we drill. We notch and drill at the module build level, to achieve entire house wire laying in 2 hours when modules are prepared with notches and utility channel. The Circuit Wire Instructional should simply state the wire, their length, and where it runs - and a person will lay it out without a single notching, with occasional threading through sheathing.
Electrical Wire through Exterior Sheathing to the Inside - going from the outside of the house requires rainproofing considerations, done in 4 ways: (1) Surface mount devices with large pipes, such as service entrance, going directly through wall; (2) surface mount devices with small pipes, such as Heath Pump disconnects or (3) exterior outlets; (4) conduit from outside to inside (PV going inside house).
HVAC Penetrations - Heat Pump is a distinct case with water, electrical, and gas going through a penetration. Bathroom fan vents are a unique case.
Plumbing - stack vent; foundation drain plumbing
Water - hose bib; water supply entrance from under the ground
Vinyl Siding Mounting Blocks: unique case, as they do not require waterproofing caulking like the exterior surface-mounted electrical devices. Simple hole will do, with plastic plug cable clamp.

Exterior Apertures in Exterior Mdodules

Interior 2nd Fl Ceiling Aperture

Vinyl poke-through: main breaker, Heat Pump MEP hole, PV power, hose bib, ext. outlets, disco, stack vent, bath fan vents, hood vent

Marking

Garage Ceiling

Initial BB + A

Interior Modules

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Seed Eco-Home Aperture Theory

Significance of Penetrations

Penetrations are a crucial aspect of house building, and if planned and not an afterthought - saves thousands of dollars on the cost of a house. They are a critical aspect of interface design. There is a vast number of penetration types, and how each is done determines the efficiency of a build. Appropriate technique and tooling must be done for each. All the penetration types and their considerations are listed here.
Apertures are related to blocking, as some of the apertures require blocking for the device held (heat pump, disconnect, exterior outlets

Penetration Detailing - there are 3 main classes based on the area of the house:

(1) Exterior MEP Pentrations - penetrations for all MEP that serves the house, done at the exterior framing stage. There is a complication in terms of alignment of some exterior devices so that penetrations do not go through the ribs of vinyl siding to minimize water intrusion. Given the specific 12” vinyl siding width, we can plan for this - such as height of the meter base, main panel, heat pump disconnect, main stack vent. But we may not be able to plan for cooktop vent + bath vents, which are fixed by interior design. And, there are 3 exterior lights in vinyl mounting boxes, which is addressed at the vinyl installation stage. All exterior MEP should be built in at the Exterior Module Build Phase. Including 3 exterior lights, exterior outlets (2), disconnect, heat pump, and later - cooktop + bath vent.
(2) Interior MEP Penetrations - through studs and floors, primarily electrical, with some water and plumbing. Notching + protectors is used in all cases unless a drill-through is unavoidable. All interior MEP should be built in at the Interior Module Build Phase and Marking Phase. The marking phase is when bottom and top plates, and outstanding penetrations through the double wall floor are done: such as 2nd toilet, 2nd bath, main stack, 2nd floor drain; hot and cold water; and electrical to vanity GFCI, vanity lights, and bath vent fan. These penetrations shoudl be shared whenever possible. There are specialized ceiling light closures with light penetrations and access panel - also bult at the interior module phase.
(3) Interior device mounting penetrations - through interior sheathing - electrical boxes, appliances, heat pump MEP hole, washer, water supply, water shutoff compartment.
Penetrations are done at an initial foundation phase, exterior module build phase, initial interior phase (2nd bath ceiling), marking (double wall penetrations + bath vents? + hood vent?), interior module build - and most at the beadboard installation phase where electrical boxes are installed - and then the final wave of penetrations in the utility channel beadboard strips.

Interior Electrical wire through studs - never done unless can’t avoid it. We use the Utility Channel instead. In cases where we cannot avoid penetrations - we notch studs instead of drilling to avoid threading wire through holes, and then use protector plates. In rare cases only must we drill. We notch and drill at the module build level, to achieve entire house wire laying in 2 hours when modules are prepared with notches and utility channel. The Circuit Wire Instructional should simply state the wire, their length, and where it runs - and a person will lay it out without a single notching, with occasional threading through sheathing.
Electrical Wire through Exterior Sheathing to the Inside - going from the outside of the house requires rainproofing considerations, done in 4 ways: (1) Surface mount devices with large pipes, such as service entrance, going directly through wall; (2) surface mount devices with small pipes, such as Heath Pump disconnects or (3) exterior outlets; (4) conduit from outside to inside (PV going inside house).
HVAC Penetrations - Heat Pump is a distinct case with water, electrical, and gas going through a penetration. Bathroom fan vents are a unique case.
Plumbing - stack vent; foundation drain plumbing
Water - hose bib; water supply entrance from under the ground
Vinyl Siding Mounting Blocks: unique case, as they do not require waterproofing caulking like the exterior surface-mounted electrical devices. Simple hole will do, with plastic plug cable clamp.

Exterior Apertures in Exterior Mdodules

Interior 2nd Fl Ceiling Aperture

Vinyl poke-through: main breaker, Heat Pump MEP hole, PV power, hose bib, ext. outlets, disco, stack vent, bath fan vents, hood vent

Marking

Garage Ceiling

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Penetrations - Wire Routing

Strategy: eliminate penetrations whenever possible, prioritize notches over holes whenever possible.

Expansion strategy: use channel in corridor, coil up wire in there for purposes of expansion. Cons: channel means more complexity when adding door. Solution: no channel, wood grinder notches and cover with protector plates

Notch out stud with wood grinder and use protector plate

Go behind landing along wall cavity. Mount landing wall after wire is laid?

Going into bathroom, we go behind ladder cavity, no notching required.

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Exterior Conduit Penetration Seal: PV Conduit

Use bushings with hole size that fits tightly into the blocking and exterior sheathing. This allows for caulking against the wall for watertight sealing under vinyl siding

Blocking

LFMC

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Exterior Outlets: sealing strategy same as Disconnect

Blocking

This could get a good water seal if bottom of fitting sleeve bottoms out against the wall, and conduit fits tight in hole through wall. A little caulk at the lip in purple would make a really good seal against 2 solid surfaces. Screw this conuit down with another fitting on other side to hold it tight.

Glue this in on house side, nipple is held firmly

Caulk interior hole to get a water tight seal

Exterior Sheathing

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Exterior Disconnect Issue

There is no way to seal a heat pump disconnect from the elements when using ¾” dutch lap siding

Gap too big for caulk
Best is use a nipple like this - —------------------------------------------

Then caulk between vinyl siding and nipple?
Not.
Best we can probably do is insert nipple into wallwith tight fit - but vinyl hole is a little larger so we can put caulk around the nipple as nipple is friction fit into the wood
Bottom out the fitting against wall and caulk though blocking for tight fit

Disconnnect

This could get a good seal if this bottoms out against the wall, and conduit fits tight in hole through wall. A little caulk at the lip in purple would make a really good seal against 2 solid surfaces. Screw this conduit down with another fitting on other side:

Blocking

Glue this in on house side, nipple is held firmly. Caulk the hole.

Caulking on side not possible?

Lift siding, insert nipple under. Disco falls in the middle of one strip of siding.

Set screw

This should match the adapter length to the threads - check it.

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Exterior Disconnect Detail

Place upper end of disconnect against a ridge for stiffness

When drilling - drill through vinyl in reverse if cold weather (risk of cracking vinyl)
Snap-Lock Plus made by Diablo
Screw spacers behind - ¼” plumber’s pex line - to make bottom fixed
Rip door off for easier working
Caulk into pvc hole to hold it for inspection
Caulk around box for water

For dutch lap, ridge is here. Span 2 ridges - 6” spacing, box is 8” tall.

Disconnnect

Use these 3 holes for mounting, use washers inside

Dutch Lap siding

Use this + conduit with sealant. Do not end hole up on a ridge, as drilling through ridge adds complication

Marker holder

Rapid Core Eject + allows drill at any angle by extending pilotm and can double up saws!

½” PVC male adapter

+ locknut

Downward hole through mounting block - water travels to siding, not inside house. Only issue is - it requires conduit + termination

May need to Screw spacers behind, but likely not

Can mount to individual hole saws for true quick release; can’t do angle holes like Spyder

#8 or #10 arbor

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Penetrations - Rapid Circle Template

Concept: use a bushing set as rotation mount point for router

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Module i46

Module i44

Module i41

Module i36

Module i35

Module i29

Module i28

Module i19

Module i27

Module i14

Module i15

Module i17

Module i13

Module i11

Module i10

Module i8

Module i7

Module i6

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23 electrical moves to 21

Module Map - Floor 1

Electrical Boxes also indicated

Added an extra box

G1, L12

L10 L11

L13

L14

L15

L16

L17

B32b, Induction, K1

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Module Map - Floor 2

2nd Floor Interior Module Map

CAD

B14

B15

B16-18

B29

B30

B32

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44 Interior Modules

Ceiling

I8 + I10 are small supermodules. These are combined with their bottoms prior to installation.

79 Exterior

Total: 122 modules

B11-12

19 Modules 1st Floor

24 Modules 2nd Floor

(missing kitchen divider?)

Keep this numbering for agreement with electrical

43 modules total

i20

i23

i21

i22

i24

i25

i26

i28

i27

i31

i30

i32

i29

i33

i34

i35

i36

i37

i38

i40

i39

i43

i42

i41

i11

i10

i13

i12

i14

i15

i16

i17

i19

i18

20, 21 missing

B6-8

B10

B13

B14

B21-23

B24

B25

B26-27

B28

B29

B30

B32

B34

B33

B32b hood

B39-40

B41-42

B37 vent

B38 vent

K3, H1, H2, DW

K4, W

L7-L9

eliminated

i44

Fridge Wall

Designed out

Full module

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Window Outside Trim

See Window Trim. See CAD.

Notes:

Use ⅜” spacer, shoot upside down

Cut multiple at a time

Mark length. Then stagger at an angle to cut at once. Use clamp + cordless saw.

Length Jig. Angles marked, then clamped. Mark first, second align, third clamp, fourth cut.

68-¼” and 43-⅝” were the right lengths for top windows. See CAD, note narrowing. So examine situation closely. Bottom windows had j-channel, different.

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Window Outside Trim

See Window Trim. See CAD.

Build Procedure (10 windows, 40 pieces):

Clamp and cut all long 8’ trims - vertically - 10 of them

No blade angle, just cut 45 deg to wood

Cut 10 on other side - these will then become the short sides

The remaining 20 - Cut one side only as above
Now measure the 68-1/4” for the height and 43-½” for the width on the stained trim pieces

Cut [20] of the 68-¼” pieces from [20] long ones
Cut [20] of the 43-½” from [10] long ones (2 per)

Attach with 2” stainless steel 15 ga finish nails

To firm up corners, may use 2” trim screws on the miter

Spackle the cracks, touch up for last time with paint. And stain if needed.

Actual: 42” wide - ½” inset on each side to hide window frame frames

66-¾” stays close to the original valuev due to weep-holes on bottom of windows

Actual: 42” wide - ½” inset on each side to hide window frame frames

Other notes: use ⅜” spacer to put ryobi cordless nailer on it and shoot upside down. Use trim screws to button up corners if needed.

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Range Hood Installation

Instructions

We have a flat-bottom cabinet

Vinyl goes above top of hood to drain water, and bottom flange of hood is above vinyl so there is no infiltration around hood.

Slide vent back over wire using rear knockout, use button connector for ease of connection. 14/2 wire.

See tech drawing.

Width behind front is 17.5 - switch is on the underside of vent hood?

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Penetrations Added

Module 44 - from B14 to B19 (Living Room 1 light channel). CAD is here.

Notch this out + protector plate. Maybe add utility channel next time. Box B12.

To B21

B12

Bedroom 1: Notch + protector plate. See Master Bedroom Electrical.

Kitchen light closure, see Master Bedroom Electrical

B30

Module 41

B31

Between floor from B33 to 1st floor bath vent fan B38. See Core Utility Modules. Will require fan hole through exterior wall module 14.

Module 14

Exterior Penetration

First floor vent fan. See Core Utility Modules.

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Penetrations Added 2

Penetration through ledger in Module 2.

Module 2

Box G1

Module 60

Second garage outlet in Module 60.

¾” hole through top plate

¾” hole through OSB + Ledger

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Master Electrical FIle

Bedroom - Download.

Core utility modules - Download.

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Induction Cooktop

Make sure Cooktop specifies Amps and gauge - 10ga 30A.
Manual.
Cutout size (WxD) : 22.05' 'x 19.29''
Plug vs hardwire considerations:

If we prep the cooktop with wire pigtail, then we plug right in after we install the cabinets.
Otherwise, need a surface box with fitting for wire, would take longer at appliance installation step

Box is added to at K1

Wire length: to Light Channel Wiring Point - 60’+19’=79’.

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Induction Cooktop

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Water Heaters + Heat Pump + Washers + Kitchen Lights + Bathroom Circuit + Induction Cooktop

On Demand Heater:

1 on-demand heater outlet, 240V 70A

Minitank Heater:

1 20A minitank heater, 1 LED strip

Kitchen Lights

1 Kitchen light - B31

Dishwasher

1 dishwasher 12/3 continues to washer

Washer

1 washer 12/2. GFCI by safety but not by code.

Heat Pump

1 30A 240 10/2 heat pump

Bathroom Circuit

1 GFCI for first floor vanity
1 GFCI for second floor vanity between bowls

Induction Cooktop

1 Induction cooktop, 30A 240 V 10/3

Other:

1 Hood vent. Dedicated if plug in. thus put it on a general purpose circuit. The only one available in the area is bedroom.

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Heat Pump Circuit

Separate blocking + wiring

(standard parts should be eliminated -

show only unique parts)

Heat pump disconnect, unfusible
10/2 to pump, 19’ long from subpanel
Make water-tight conduit connection as in the main panel
Disconnect to pump - 56” in 40” LFNC
Disconnect has ½” LFNC, watertight

20’ 10/2 to Subpanel

4” LFNC stub at disconnect

56” 10/2 to heat pump in 40” of ½” LFNC11

Cut 48” and fold top

Bottom of heat pump mount even with bottom of plumbing hole

Trailing edge BB inset 0.75”

Leading edge BB inset ⅜”

L2 is GFCI exterior

L3 is standard interior box

Exterior disconnect is reference point for heat pump mount location

Module 50

(looking from inside)

Module 49

Module Map

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Procedure 2: Mount Indoor Unit, Connect Heat Pump

Once inside of house is painted do Module 1b

Prep the downspout including its top closure
Mount interior mount + drill hole

Mount Heat Pump Proper

Cut heat pump lines
Remove valve stem, evacuatem and release refrigerant
Connect 2 pigtails to heat pump, replace cover
Connect power, test run.
Tidy up exterior lines and install downspout cover + drain

Slope tube down

Connect to Interior Unit, connect to Disconnect

Tidy all wiring/piping

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Procedure 1: Blocking, Devices; Mount Disconnect + Exterior Unit

Disconnnect

Install Blocking

Cut and install blocking For heat pump disconnect
For disconnect - drill + run ½” LFNC through wall hole and screw it down.
Cut and install blocking for exterior unit and interior unit from tech drawing

Prep and Mount the Disconnect

Prep the Disconnect 1a: rear + bottom knockouts punched, home run wire pigtailed but not fully connected, pigtail fully connected done to outer unit.
Mount disconnect + pigtails.

Prep the Interior Unit

Interior unit prewire
Bend piping, tape it up. Save for after interior paint.

Mount Exterior Unit

Mount Exterior unit: mount the mount with reference to disconnect.
Mount the exterior unit on robber blocks + plumb the drain hole

19’

Use these 3 holes for mounting, use washers inside

LFNC angled down for drainage. Hole though siding and block is tight. Fix to block with screw. Not. Do this.

Dutch Lap siding

Sealant

56” stripped

No - pVC watertight?

48”

40”

Use this + conduit with sealant. Do not end hole up on a ridge, as drilling through ridge adds complication

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Heat Pump Scope of Work

Indoor unit 8” from ceiling

Downspout ends at bottom of disconnect

2.5x2.5 downspout

½” PVC drain to ground

Probe for disconnect from inside

3.5” hole with 3” PVC angled down to outside

(2-⅜” hole for 2” pvc?)

Blocking 2- 2x8

Blocking 2x6

Outdoor unit ~2’ from ground - easy to mount

Prepare blocking and apertures for 2 devices and prep the downspout including its top closure. 3.5” hole, ½” hole for heat pump disconnect. Note that heat pump plumbing aperture cannot be done at the Marking + Apertures step - save until beadboard is installed unless we install the beadboard in the heat pump area.
Prep Heat Pump Disconnect with 2 pigtails + fittings - one to subpanel, one to heat pump
Prep indoor unit - pigtail inside LFNC and connected, piping assy bundled and bent
Attach 2 mounts - indoor, outdoor
Attach 3 devices
Connect, Run Heat Pump + cleanup

Mount, use screws with washers

Flush PVC into wall, angled down

Fix PVC with screw so it doesn’t pop out

Connect inner electrical

Put Nylog on flare of eccentric flare. Also Nylog when connecting tubes, just on flare, not threads. Tube ⅛” past block.

Pumpdown to 300 micron shown

Close off top of downspout

3 wires 10 ga to pump;

Included wire to indoor unit

Switch needs no blocking

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Heat Pump Installation - Video

To the right of the landing, as landing has drywall. Drywall is another layer, avoid going through it.
See Heat Pump Installation
Heat pump penetration
CAD
Build Procedure, especially for hose routing
Pump goes down to 5 pa=40 microns

Ridgid PVC Cutter- https://amzn.to/2YK735a

Ridgid Ratcheting PVC Cutter- https://amzn.to/3lsK6gC

Irwin Uni-Bit- https://amzn.to/34HjGBE

Geocell Sealant- https://amzn.to/2G33ccN

2 3/8" hole saw- https://amzn.to/2G0aLku

Nitrogen Regulator - http://amzn.to/2bXdR5f

Quick Coupler for the Gauges- https://amzn.to/2sTk8Ze

Mount, use screws with washers

Flush PVC into wall, angled down

Fix PVC with screw so it doesn’t pop out

Connect inner electrical

Put Nylog on flare of eccentric flare. Also Nylog when connecting tubes, just on flare, not threads. Tube ⅛” past block.

Pumpdown to 300 micron shown

Termination: downspout cut and neat to pump, next to disconnect.
Power from disconnect inside LFNC, routed next to LFNC for indoor unit
Zip teis after leaving downpout

Use probe.

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Washer outlet- use a GFCI even through codes don’t require it for a washer. GFCI is used if outlet is used to service washer area, not just washer.

Washer

Trailing edge 1.25” inset from module edge

See K4 for other side

2 additional studs on the side

2 additional studs inset 3” on top

2 additional studs outset 1.5” on bottom

Double blocking throughout

Box W

Leading edge cut off and inset 6.75”

Beadboard on Box W Side lowered 0.75” from top

Module i9

8’3” 12/2 to DW

Module Map

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DW - 12/3 to DW and 12/2 to Washer. 20.25 ci needed. GFCI outlet required. Location on left side of mid bay to fit under cabinet.

Electrical at bottom right

Wall penetration to heater junction clamp.

On-Demand Heater + Minitank + Dishwasher + LED + Kitchen SA

CAD

Module i5

See Box K3

Box DW

Box H1

62’3” 6/2 to Main Panel

65’ 12/2 (H1) (feeds LED) to Subpanel

Make it 66’, as box is lower

69’ 12/3 to Subpanel

Module Map

Changed to single box as on-demand heater must be hard wired by mfg instructions. But needs

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Minitank Heater H1

H2 - Hard wire - hole through wall. 6/2 wire, terminated inside the heater. Rough wire sticking out 6” through wall. Circuit breaker lock at subpanel.
Interconnection: 62’3”6/2 wire back to Main Breaker Panel (not subpanel)
Penetrations - through beadboard right behind the heater.

H1 -12/2 wire. GFCI outlet. LED Strip plugged in to second outlet
Interconnection: 65’ back to Subpanel
Penetrations - box cutout in beadboard

On-Demand Heater H2

Wire hole

Minitank + LED light plug

Heaters are wired along back wall

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Boxes - CAD

Unboxes

68 ci

2G 32 ci

3.7”x4”

(3” deep)

361-5719

20 ci

3.75”x2.3”

(3.7” deep)

361-5104

3G 55 ci

3.75”x6”

(3.7” deep)

2G 25 ci

3.75”x4”

(2.875” deep)

361-5106

1” deep

2 ⅜” tall

1 ¾” wide

⅝” x 2 3/4 “ x 4 5/4”

1.9” x .9”

3” x 3”

Cost elimination for kinetic switching is $40-60/box, or $20-40 savings per box. Here are the eliminated parts:

Switch Box - $3.3
Switch - $2.48
Switch cover - $1.29
Staples - 30 cents @3 cent each
Extra wire - about 40’ extra wire for main living room light, double if made it 3 way - $20-40 savings
Beadboard measuring and cutting - 5 min
1 extra wire segment measuring + cut - 10 min
Stripping 2 wire ends - 1 min. Total labor 16 min - at $50/hr - $13

Used:

[2] living room light
[2] upstairs hallway light
[2] stair lights
Canopy light
Front garage lights
Garage light
Terrace light
[3] bedroom lights
[6] bathroom - 2 vanity, 2 bath fans, 2 lights
Kitchen light

$26

Requires 3 wire connectors

$20

Cheaper
Requires no connectors ($1.6 savings)

8 ci

(1.3” deep)

14 ci

Fixture rated 15 lb

(2.4” deep)

18ci

(2.6” deep)

50 lb fixture

22.5 ci

2.4” deep

14 ci

2.3”x4.1”

(2.8” deep)

361-5104

$1.35. $2.41 or $4.45 or $1 for combo

$1.93

18.3 ci

3hole ½”

Surface

Plugs included

50 lb fixture

24 ci

2.7” deep

Ext. Lights

16 ci, 16 ci, 15.8 ci

1.5” deep

Outdoor Cover

25.5 ci 3 hole ½” KO

Surface mount

1 or 2 wire ok

1G Quick

22.5 ci

$1.1

240 30A plug: cover plate covers double box

6400W stove uses 10 ga 30A circuit.

¾”

22 ci

$0.25

1G 18 ci

$0.33

1G 20 ci

$0.80

1G Quick

18 ci

$0.42

2G 35 ci

QuickClick

$1.8

How many 2G do we replace by using 1G 22.5 ci?

How manyt 3G do we replace with 1G 35 ci?

25.5 ci

¾”

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Box L16ab

Box L17

Terminal light box with receiver, 16.25 ci required, use reg 18 ci box
Interconnection: 11’14/2 back to L16a
Penetrations: 1” hole through blocking and OSB at exterior box

Add 40” to box-box distance

18 ci needed - use standard box, 20 ci.
Interconnection: 19’7” 12/2 back to Box L15
Penetrations - ¾” through door, ½” right under top blocking drilled from canopy side

Trailing edge outset 3/4”

Trailing edge cut off

Module 20

Trailing edge outset ¾”

Box L16a

Box L16b

Canopy light

½” hole

3/4” hole

19’7” 14/2 back to

Just for Maysville SH4 build

Could put receiver in L16a

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Box L14

18 ci needed - use standard box, 20 ci.
Interconnection: 14’6” 12/2 back to Box L13

Box L15

18.3 ci exterior box by front door. 15.75 ci required.
Interconnection: 7’3”12/2 back to L14
Penetrations: 1” hole through blocking and OSB at exterior box

Add 40” to box-box distance

Trailing edge outset 3/4”

Trailing edge cut off

Module 52

Trailing edge outset ¾”

Box L14

2x at front

Module 21

Module Map

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Box L10-L11

L11 is 15A GFCI outlet.
L10 needs 20 ci (receiver + light) wireless receiver: make it square to fit the volume required?
Interconnection: 3’ 14/2 between boxes. 19’2” 14/2 back to G1.

Prep:

Dewalt cordless router with plunge base
Upcut spiral bit
Box template

Leading edge

Trailing edge

3’ wire, stapled to block

Garage Box Wire continues along Joist

Needs GFCI box

L11

L10

Make this square as 20 ci needed

(looking from textured side)

19’ 14/2 back to G1

Preinstall both boxes and short wire. Feed long wire through box upon mounting BB on ceiling.

⅜” hole for 24’ of 14/2 signal wire to opener 2” away from box

Start in back, move forward

Module Map

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Box L12 (+ G1)

22.5 ci needed - fork box with 12/2. Use 25 ci double box.
Interconnection: 19’8” 12/2 back to subpanel
Penetrations - use same holes as G1 to enter garage, and to go back to subpanel

Box L13

20 ci regular box in mid bay, Module 23
Interconnection: 11’6”12/2 back to L12
Penetrations: through middle of top plate in Module 60

Add 40” to box-box distance

Trailing edge outset ¾”

Trailing edge outset 3/4”

Leading edge inset 3/8”

Trailing edge outset ¾”

Module 2

Looking from inside the house. Wire up Garage Side GFCI box, then do this box.

Module 23

Trailing edge cut off

Leading edge inset ⅜”

2x4 at front

L12

G1 on other side

L13

Module Map

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Box G1 (see Box L12)

15.75 ci needed if no clamps (exterior box). Use 18 ci exterior box, GFCI outlet
Interconnection: 19’8” 12/2 back to subpanel.
Penetrations: need to drill holes above door (module 3)

Box G2

20 ci regular box in wall - second Garage outlet. GFCI protected by
Interconnection: 37’4”12/2 back to G1
Penetrations: through middle of top plate in Module 60

Leading edge inset 3/8”

Trailing edge outset ¾”

Module 2

Looking from inside the house

(garage side sheathing not considered here)

Garage side sheathing - 3 layers

Leading edge inset 3/8”

Trailing edge outset 3/4”

¾” hole in top plate, mid-bay

¾” hole in topmost location of OSB, mid-bay

Wire Between G1 and G2 stapled to joist

¾” hole at 88” height back to subpanel

On other side looking from garage

I would rather have a recessed box - no special cover needed

Textured side

Use same box for G1&G2, not surface mounted.

Wire runs along door side

Module Map

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Box L6

Standard Box - 20 cu in required. 16 ci? Forking junction with 14/2 wire.
Interconnection: 12’ 14/2 back to L4

Box L7-L9

18 ci Round box for closet light with pull string (16 ci req), top for smoke alarm (12 ci req), 20 ci outlet on bottom (16 ci req).
Interconnection: 10’ 14/2 back to L2
: Through stud, to go above door, at 88” high.

Add 3’4” to box-box distance

Trailing edge flush both sides

Trailing edge outset 3/4”

Leading edge outset 3/8” both sides

Drywall

+ BB

inside

12’ 14/2

Box L6

Box L7

Box L8

Box L9

10’ 14/2

8’ 14/2

4’8” 14/2

Module i18

Module i16

Module Map

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Box L4

Standard Box - 20 cu in required. Forking junction with 14/2 wire.
Interconnection: 15’4” 14/2 back to L1

Box L5

Standard box, end point.
Interconnection: 25’10” 14/2 back to L2
Penetrations: Through stud, to go above door, at 88” high.

Add 40" to box-box distance

Leading edge inset ⅜”

Trailing edge outset 3/4”

15’4” 14/2

Trailing edge inset 3/4”

Trailing edge outset 3/4”

Leading edges cut off

15’4” 14/2

25’10” 14/2

¾” hole 88” high

Module Map

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Box L2

Exterior box for outdoor outlet - 15.75 ci needed. Combination cover. Mid of mid bay. Use GFCI outlet.
Interconnection: 14’9” 12/2 back to L1
Internal Penetrations: ¾” hole for blocking and outer sheathing for box.

Box L3 + L2

Standard box. 3rd house module from back corner in order to allow expansion to the back (12’ stagger). This means the heat pump must be within 12’ as well.
Interconnection: Back-to-back 12/2 with L2 (exterior box), therefore need 18” 12/2 back to L2. 24” actual - it was tight with 18”.

Wall Module 49

On outside, ¾” wire hole through center, blocking behind box

Leading edge inset ⅜”

Trailing edge outset 3/4”

14’9” 12/2

18” 12/2 back to back

Leading edge inset ⅜”

Trailing edge outset 3/4”

Before moving exterior box 4 feet - 10’9” 12/2. Moved box away from subpanel.

Move box 4’ further from subpanel

Wall Module 50

(L2 added)

Module Map

Both boxes are in M50 back to back now

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Box L1 - Living Room

Duplex box 32 ci - 22.5 ci needed. Combination cover. Mid of mid bay.
Interconnection: 5’ 12/2 back to subpanel
Internal Penetrations: Wire hole at 88” through door. 2.5” knockout hole in OSB, just on left side. Route this hole through beadboard + drywall later - using existing OSB hole as guide.

5’ 12/2

¾” hole at 88” high

Add 2x8 flat blocking for panel mounting 26” long on each side of stud starting 2” above knockout

Wall Module 4

Leading edge inset ⅜”

Tailing edge cut +inset ⅜”

Module Map

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Living Room Circuit + Garage Circuit

Boxes:

2 GFCI exterior outlets (front and back of house)
6 Garage

Garage Door opener
Garage Light
2 Front Exterior Lights (L18-L19)
2 GFCI

Canopy light
Smoke alarm (L9?)
Other Outlets

L11

L10

L12

L13

L14

L15

L16

L17

22.5 CI duplex combo. Use 25ci box.

14/2 from here onwards

15.75 ci req. Use 18.3 ci surface box.

Signal wire for garage door opener - 14/2

Route 14/2 control wire through wall, exit wall at location of wall mounted switch.

14/2 wire

12/2 wire for G

14/2 after L15

22.5 CI duplex combo. Use 25ci box. Mid bay.

20A GFCI

L2 moved over 4’ because of heat pump

Garage door opener

Needs GFCI outlet

Does a garage require a dedicated outlet? Practical case: vacuum inside house + power tools in garage - trips breaker.

To fridges

12/2 Living Room Line

L18

L19

Switch by door to garage

Notes:

Light switches, such as Garage Light, Front Garage Light switch are self-powered - and surface mounted, no wires. AC power is in the device box.

Module Map

L18+L19 should be connected to L13 which is closer, not L12.

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Wire Procedure

Wire up exterior walls:

B1, B2, B14, B15, B16-18, B29, B30, B32, B32b
L1, L2, L3, L4, L5, L10, L11, L12, L13, L14, L15, L16. L17 done.
G1, G2
K1., I. B32b
F1-F3

Wire up light closures

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Converting a New Work Box to Old Work?

box

Cover plate screw

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Single box - 18 ci required, use standard 20 ci. Box on laundry wall.
Interconnection: 5’5” 12/2 back to K4
Internal Penetrations: Stud on left to next module. Needs to thread through to module i9

Box K5

Box ‘K6’ = B32B

This is the vent hood fan, we can drop a line from bedroom, call it B32b

Front BB

Double blocking

Cut edges

flush

Hole at 17”

Module I12

Back BB

Trailing edges flush

5’5” back to K4

Module Map

Not included in shallow laundry wall

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Single box - 18 ci required, use standard 20 ci. Box on laundry wall.
Interconnection: 5’3” 12/2 back to K3
Internal Penetrations: stud to left to make it to double cavity, and hole to Box K5 at 17” high

Box K4

BB on other side is ¾” down from top

Double blocking throughout

Trailing edge inset 4.25”

Trailing edge flush with stud

Cut edge

Trailing edge inset ⅜”

5’3” 12/2 back to K3

Module I9

Stud but can use spacers instead of stud

¾” Hole at 17” from bottom of rightmost stud

See washer box on other side.

Module Map

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Box K3

Double box - 29.25 ci for split of multiwire to 2 circuits, with 2 GFCI outlets protecting the entire kitchen small appliance circuit. Use 32 ci double box, right of sink.
Interconnection: 68’6” of 12/3 wire to subpanel. 7’ 12/2 to K2.
Penetrations: through studs to the right to double wall cavity

68’6” 12/3 to subpanel along back wall

Trailing edge ⅜” inset

Leading edge ¾” outset

7’ 12/2 back to K2

Module I5

Note: this circy is 58” longer than water heater, so water heater should be

63’8” - verify

Chalk line + Notch out 12 studs 3” wide with grinder wheel, ¾” deep

105” to here

60’ to subpanel. Or 48’ with 32’ house.

60’ to subpanel from circle

Actual 59’6” to 59’9”

Module Map

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Box K1 - Kitchen SA Circuit + Induction + Cooktop Fan Hole

Single box - 13.5 ci needed for regular outlet, use 20 ci standard. =
Next to cooktop
Interconnection: 6’4” of 12/2 wire feeds upstream to K2, 75’ 10/3 to subpanel for induction (75 or 79?)
Penetrations: through studs to the right to double wall cavity. Beadboard penetration for this box, induction box, and hole for fan wire.

Box K2

Single box - 13.5 ci needed for regular outlet, use 20 ci standard. =
Left of sink
Interconnection: to K3
Penetrations: through studs to the right to double wall cavity

Trailing edge

¾” outset

Leading edge ⅜” inset

Penetration through 3 studs

6’4” 12/2 to K2

Trailing edge ⅜” inset

Leading edge ¾” outset

Module 15

Module i4

Kitchen Small Appliance

Single blocking

To B32

79’ 10/3 to subpanel (inside wall cavity then to back wall)

Induction

B32b

Module Map

8’3” of 14/2

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Vanity Outlet

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Box B41-42 - Vanity Lights Second Floor + Box BG2 GFCI - CAD

2 square boxes, 20 ci needed for receiver + light. Second light has no receiver.
Interconnection: 10’3” of 14/2 wire feeds upstream to B34.

67’3’ of 12/2 back to subpanel
12’4” drop of 12/2 to Bath 1 GFCI

Intraconnection: 6’ of 14/2 feeds box B42
Penetrations: beadboard cutouts for boxes. Wire between GFCI 1 + 2 needs penetration

GFCI Bath 2 - Add 2’3” to H1,
get GFCI Bath 1 - see

Module i23

Module i24

BB trailing edge inset 3/8”

BB leading edge outset 3/4”

BB leading edge cut off +inset 3/8”

Lights at same separation + height but even over the vanity sinks?

Tech Specs for Double Vanity

Installation Instructions

BG2 (GFCI)

6’ 14/2 to B42

B42

B41

67’3’ of 12/2 back to subpanel

Penetration to Light channel

12’4” 12/2 to Bath 1 GFCI

Module Map

2 boxes on sides. 2’ less wire. 65’ should work. We need 5’ from common wiring point

See update

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Box B39-40 - Vanity Lights First Floor + Bath GFCI 1 = Box BG1

2 square boxes, 20 ci needed for receiver + light. Second light has no receiver.
90” from floor (sill plate included)
Interconnection: 8’11” of 14/2 wire feeds upstream to B34. 12’4” of 12/2 goes to Bath 2 GFCI (pigtail is upstairs).
Intraconection: 4’6” of 14/2 feeds box B40
Penetrations: beadboard cutouts for boxes. Vanity wire goes thru same subfloor wire hole as wire to Bath 1 ceiling light. GFCI needs penetration between G1 + G2. Feed to G2 uses same hole as vanity wire?

Box B32

Box B39 + receiver

20 ci

Box B40

Leading edge outset ¾”

Trailing edge inset ⅜”. Full sheet.

Leading edge

cut + inset ⅜”

Single blocking

BB 13.5” wide

Module i2

Module i3

Module i2

8’11” of 14/2 to B34

Same hole as for light cavity

5’ of 14/2

Update this with GFCI

BG1

Make mirror

blocking 2x6 or 2x8

Module Map

i2 is an irregular module

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Box B38 - Bath Vent 1

Bath vent fan connection
Interconnection: 4’5” of 14/2 wire feeds from B33 upstairs
Penetrations -

vent fan face - trace the fan box
99.5” shortened stud
Between floors for wire from B33 to B38 below

Frame i1 should not need cutout at bottom as bath drain is below the floor

Module i1

Trailing edge inset ⅜”

Leading edge outset ¾”

B38 enclosure

Beadboard notched 21” high + 28.5 wide

Ignore

4’5” of 14/2

B33

B38

Module Map

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Box B37

Electrical box in vent fan.
Feed: 9’ of 14/2 wire from B33
Cut 3” hole for vent pipe
Cutout for fan body in beadboard

3” vent, on center of stud with protector plates for strength

B37

Electrical junction in fan

BB leading edge ¾” outset

BB trailing edge ⅜” inset

Movable shower dropears mount

Notch for shower drain

9’ of 14/2 to B33

B33

B37

Corner:

4.6” from edge 13.5” down

Module i22

Module Map

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Bath Vent Locations

Considerations:

Avoid main vent. Last time main vent went under trellis
Avoid blocking. Avoid trellis. Have 4” space for vent
Penetrate interior module
Mount as high towards ceiling as possible

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Box B36 - First Floor Bathroom Ceiling Light

Single box Needs 12 ci use 18 ci standard
Interconnection: 8’6” of 14/2 wire feeds upstream to B34
Penetrations - light box in ceiling, and wire hole through subfloor in the double wall cavity 25.5” over from edge of subfloor sheet.

B34

B36

BB seam

Use ripped 2x4 (1.75”)

8’6” 14/2

8’6” 14/2 wire stapled on this edge (other side)

Looking from front BB side

Same joist cavity as light, otherwise harder to thread from light to box.

Light cavity is preassemble with box + pigtail. Pigtail threads up to B34.

Module Map

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Box B35 Penetration 2

14’7” 14/2 to B34

Wire penetration for bath 2 light

Looking from front side of Beadboard

Trailing Edge

Leading Edge

Module Map

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Box B34

Double box for 32.5 ci ( 2 light receivers + 4 downstream feeds (bath 1+2 vanity + top lights) for 10 wire total). Use 34 ci double box with blank cover plate. Put receivers in light boxes and use 24.5+ ci box. More transparent, no special single 34 ci box.
Interconnection: 8’ 14/2 wire feeds upstream to B33
Penetrations - None. Route wire right behind boxes on back of studs (double wall cavity)

Box B35

Round box in 2nd floor bath ceiling needs 12 ci, use 18 ci box
Interconnection: 14’7” 14/2 wire feeds upstream to B34
Penetrations - light box in ceiling, and wire hole through ceiling over the double wall cavity. See separate drawing.

Module i26

Trailing edge BB flush

Leading edge BB ⅜” outset

It’s useful to place receiver right in light box for transparency. Requires 16 ci. Put receivers in vanity lights, as those boxes are square 20 ci, easy to access (make round if easier). If we put all receivers in their point of use, we need only 24.5 ci for B34 and don’t need the special 34 ci

Box B34

BB trailing edge has tongue

Looking from the front side of BB

BB leading edge is cut

Box B35

14’7” 14/2 to B34

Module Map

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Box B32 + B32B - Hood Vent

Single box Needs 20 ci, uses standard 20 ci box - fork to hood vent. Mid bay. Box is B32, hood vent junction is B32B
Easy routing in utility channel
Interconnection: 8’3” of 14/2 drop to vent hood. 15’2” 14/2 upstream to B30.
Penetrations: 1” hole through BB for vent hood. Module 38 bottom plate ¾” hole to first floor.

B30

B32

B32B

Leading Edge 3/8” inset

Trailing Edge 3/4” outset

Module 38

Module 15

8’3” of 14/2

15’2” 14/2 to B30

B32

B32B

See Box K1 for penetrations

1” hole through bottom plate, ½” PVC in penetration

½” PVC

½” rebar, sharpened and taped to penetrate insulation. Then remove rebar spike. Leave PVC, screw it down, and feed wire through.

Module Map

V2: take 16 or 24” insulation hanger as fish thru method. Tape wire to the insulation hanger, use Bic pen cap as a spear.

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Box B32

Move over 4 feet so we drop straight down to vent hood
Single box Needs 18 ci, uses standard 20 ci box
Easy routing in utility channel
Mid bay, Bedroom 1 East Wall
Interconnection: 11’2” of 12/2 wire feeds upstream to B30

Box B33

Needs 28 ci, use duplex 32 ci
Easy routing through channel. Mid bay. No penetrations, uses the bathroom double wall cavity.
Has receivers for 2 bathroom fans. Feeds next outlet.
Interconnection:

7’ 14/2 wire feeds upstream to B32
Feeds 2nd story bath fan in i22.
Feeds 1st story bath fan in i1

Box B32

B30

B32

⅜” inset,

cut edge

⅜” inset

Leading edge

Module 39

Module i25

Module Map

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Box B31

KitchenLight Channel Fan vent box (B31) is standard 20 ci box with outlet + cover plate. Vent power supply plugs into this outlet. A remote control comes with the vent.
Round box - has receiver for light switch. 16 ci, with clamps. Heavy fixture box (on Kitchen Lights circuit). Light in center of kitchen accounting for cabinets.
Interconnection: 6’3” 14/2 wire feeds upstream to B30
We have 8’8” of 14/2 feeding from outlet to light box. No, dedi.
Penetrations - Module 414 has a ¾” hole feeding to light channel

Light to kitchen circuit.

Box B31

20 ci single box

For fan plug

fan

Access panel

4x10 grate

11.875” flush with subfloor

2 full sections of BB + 13”

6’3” 14/2 to B

B30

Module 41

B31

Blocking at every BB seam

Notch here for wire to light, pigtail out of this hole.

68’ 14/2 to Subpanel

Module Map

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Box B30

Box Needs 22.5 ci, use duplex 25 ci
Bedroom 1 - runs in utility channel
Interconnection: 14’6” of 12/2 wire feeds upstream to Box B29

14’6” of 12/2

Back to B29

to light channel

B30

Module 41

Module Map

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Box B29

Single box Needs 18 ci
Interconnection: 6’6” of 12/2 wire feeds upstream to B28

¾” outset on trailing edge

Beadboard only ~36”

6’6” of 12/2

Back to B28

Module 43

Module Map

Box B29

Box B28

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Box B26-27

Single box Needs 18 ci
Round box - smoke alarm - needs 18 ci
Interconnection: 5’9” 12/2 wire feeds back to B25
Penetrations - need notch + protector going back to B25

Box B28

Single box Needs 18 ci, utility channel on other side
Interconnection: 8’ 12/2 wire feeds back to B27

Double sided blocking

Looking from Bedroom 1

Box faces away

Box faces towards

5’9” 12/2

9’8” 12/2 to outlet

¾” outset, both sides

⅜” inset

B27

B26

8’ 12/2

back to B27

Module i31

Module i32

Module Map

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Box B24

Light box - 18 ci - uses standard 18 ci round
Top mid bay over door.
Interconnection: 4’8” of 12/2 feeds upstream to B23
Penetrations - need to go through the studs

Box B25

Light box - 18 ci - uses standard 18 ci round
Top mid bay over door.
Interconnection: 6’ 12/2 wire feeds upstream to B24
Penetrations - need to gp back to Module i33

Module i33

4’8” 12/2 to B23

Module i30

Module Map

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Box B21-23

Single box Needs 18 ci, use standard 20 ci single
Round box - smoke alarm - needs 18 ci, same for B23. Uses standard 18 ci round.
B21 is in Bedroom 2 module i34 mid bay, channel on other side
Interconnection: 15’11” 12./2 wire feeds upstream to B12
9’8” 12/2 wire goes to smoke alarm B22.
40” of 12/2 goes to smoke alarm 23.
Penetrations - need one between the smoke alarms, and continuing downstream

Front BB full sheet; outset ⅜” on RHS, none on LHS.

Back BB inset ⅜” on LHS, ¾” outset on RHS

B21

B22

B23 (other side)

Module i34

15’11” to B12

9’8”

12/2

40”

12/2

B21

B22

B23

B12

Module Map

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Box B19- Box B20

Fan vent box (12) is standard 20 ci box with outlet + cover plate. Vent power supply plugs into this outlet. A remote control comes with the vent.
Round box - has receiver for light switch. 16 ci, with clamps. Heavy fixture box
Interconnection: 12’10” 14/2 wire feeds upstream to B14
We have 8’8” of 14/2 feeding from outlet to light box.
Penetrations - Module 44 has a ¾” hole feeding to light channel

Feed wire from the bottom back to B14. Incline closure to wire feed location, feed through, and after lifting into position, tighten the wire by pulling to B14.

B14

Module 44

8’8”

Module 44

B14

12’10”

Staple and coil wire feed

50 lb fixture box

Grate

Height of fan framing and closure is 10.875”

B20

B19

Blocking at every BB seam

Module Map

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Box B16 - Exterior GFCi

B16 is a low exterior surface mount GFCI box, 18.3 ci, with push-in cable connector and plunged top and bottom .
No clamp, surface mount exterior box. GFCI outlet + waterproof cover.
Bay closest to corner of house.
Interconnection: (with B17+B18)

Box is on the exterior side. Measure from the corner dimension shown + 2.5” (+0.75” for trim + 1.25” for the siding + 0.5” sheathing)

B18 is a standard 20 ci box
Mid Bay of Module 25
Intraconnection: 4’2” 14/2 wire feeds downstream to B16. B16 feeds B17 with 8’ of 14/2
Box B17 is a round light box .1.5” deep, surface mount, with receiver for light. Wood blocking used for light fixture.
Interconnection: 15'2" of 14/2 wire go back to B15.

Box B18 Inside + B17 Terrace Light

B16

B18

B17

B15

Surface mount exterior

Center of bay.

Waterproof enclosure.

B16

B18

B17

8’ 14/2

B15

Surface mount round

Has receiver.

4’2” 14/2

15'2" of 14/2

Module Map

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Box B16 - Exterior GFCi

B16 is a low exterior surface mount GFCI box, 18.3 ci, with push-in cable connector and plunged top and bottom .
No clamp, surface mount exterior box. GFCI outlet + waterproof cover.
Bay closest to corner of house.
Interconnection: (with B17+B18)

Box is on the exterior side. Measure from the corner dimension shown + 2.5” (+0.75” for trim + 1.25” for the siding + 0.5” sheathing)

B18 is a standard 20 ci box
Mid Bay of Module 25
Intraconnection: 4’2” 14/2 wire feeds downstream to B16. B16 feeds B17 with 8’ of 14/2
Box B17 is a round light box .1.5” deep, surface mount, with receiver for light. Wood blocking used for light fixture.
Interconnection: 15'2" of 14/2 wire go back to B15.

Box B18 Inside + B17 Terrace Light

B16

B18

B17

B15

Surface mount exterior

Center of bay.

Waterproof enclosure.

B16

B18

B17

8’ 14/2

B15

Surface mount round

Has receiver.

4’2” 14/2

15'2" of 14/2

Module Map

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Module 72

Needs penetration because utility channel ends in Bedroom 3 and there is a stud in the way of
If 16 center went from other side, we would have a gap to lead wires through without accounting for hole. Do it.
Point 2 points to a rule: do not have studs at transverse walls - use ladder blocking instead.

Right BB is 11.5” wide, starts ½” from transverse wall. BB leading edge is inset ⅜”

Interior wall bisects this. 2 pieces of BB are used. Left is determined by leading edge of former sheat. Right piece must be cut to ⅜” inset.

1” notch for a single wire, protected by a protector plate

Module Map

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Box B14

Single box Needs 12 ci use 20 ci standard box
Bedroom 2 - with channel, no penetrations.
Interconnection: 6’4” of 14/2 wire goes back to B13

25 minute record.

Box B15

Single box Needs 16 ci
Bedroom 3 window mid bay, channel, no penetrations
Interconnection: 12’8” of 14/2 wire goes back to B13
Penetrations - Module 72 need penetration (see detail)
Due to discontinuity of utility channel, we have a penetration due to a stud in the way, which can be redesigned.

Exterior Blocking

Interior Blocking

BB trailing edge is outset ¾”

BB leading edge is inset ⅜”

BB trailing edge is outset ¾”

Leading edge is inset ⅜”

Module 46

Module 72

Module Map

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Box B11-B12

B11 Round box - smoke alarm - 18 CI
Interconnection: 18’7” 12/2 wire feeds smoke alarm from B9
Outlet box: 25 CI box + Duplex Combo Cover
9’7” of 12/2 wire connects outlet to smoke alarm
Bedroom 3 side has no channel, so wire continues on other side of wall
B12 is on other side mid bay, utility channel
Penetrations - need holes in 2 studs 8” from top from door side.

Box B13

Single box Needs 20 CI - use 20CI
Feeds 2 downstream - 14 + 15
Mid-bay, bedroom 3 side, utility chan is on other side
Interconnection: 8’ of 14/2 wire back to B12

Looking from bedroom 3 side.

Beadboard sticks out

Beadboard is inset

Double

blocking

Double blocking

Faces backwards to Bedroom 2 (not as shown)

(correction needed)

Smoke alarm ok

B11

B12

B13

Wrong dir

Should be for bed 2

Module i38

Module i39

Module Map

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Box B9

90” of 12/2 wire back to box B5

Box B10

22.5 cu in required. Receiver + light. 14/2, terminal. Feed-through B10 is a separate 12/2 wire (ignore that) .

_________

4 ”

Put on a 14.5” mount block

Symmetric cavities

186” of 14/2 wire back to B9

Wire runs in front of ladder to hall utility channel

¾” hole 8” from top of module

12/2

14/2

Module i42

Module i40

Module Map

Actual build: light mid way up, not upper part.

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Box B7-B8 - Wall I45

48" 14/2 from box B8 to B7

101” of 14/2 from Box B7 to B6

Box B7

Box B8

Box B6

Hall Beadboard

Beadboard direction

Stair Beadboard

48.375 to edge

Notched out ¾”

16 cu in required

12 cu in required

Module i45

Module Map

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Box B6 - Wall I 45

Wire - 153" 12/2 to Box B5

Front (hallway side)

Beadboard direction

BB Flush with edge of framing

Beadboard Sticks out ⅜”

Back (stair side)

Beadboard direction

Beadboard cut off by ¾”

Beadboard inset by ⅜”

Beadboard cutoff flush with edge of framing

Beadboard sticks out ¾” from framing

Steps:

Staple all wires
Add beadboard on one side

Module Map

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Box B6 - Wall I 45

Wire - 153" 12/2 to Box B5

Top left view

Top right view

front

Beadboard on module I45 does not reach end of framing. Is that a mistake?

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Box B5 - Wall I 43

207” 12/2 to Box B2

Can mount box and put on beadboard. Both sides of BB are cut on each sheet.

Module Map

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Box B4 - End Section

B19

B20

Thermal Insulation Cavity

Sound

Insulation Cavity

End section has sound insulation or thermal insulation

Thermal insulation here

Box B19

thermal

Module Map

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Box B4

Module Map

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Box B3

64” 14/2 wire to Box B2

131” 14/2 wire to Box B4

11.25” should be to bottom of closure beadboard

Round Wallo access panel

20 cu in outlet

4x10 floor grate

4x10 fan

Pack insulation here and fasten with housewrap strips (6” gap to end joist)

Feed wire through subfloor to bedroom

64” 14/2 Wire to 2nd floor

Wrong - height is 11.25-⅜”

Module Map

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Box B3+B4

Light Assembly

Beadboard to subfloor (insulation closure)

10.875” to bottom of light closure so light closure is flush with joists.

Trim edge with 2.25” casing, fat side to the outside of closure. 18 ga brads

Nail with 15 ga finish nails, 2”

Blocking at every BB seam

Kay Parts:

Square hole
Round access
Box
2 square grates fit

Module Map

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Box B2

Module 70

Module Map

Bedrooms Circuit map shows double box. Looks like this should be double.

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Bedroom Electrical Modules

Box 0 - Subpanel

Box B1 - Bedroom 1

Use E for exterior notation and I for interior notation of modules
Note you can extract wire length by summing pad lengths. If wires are drawn individually, then this can be automated: App.ActiveDocument.Pad001.Length + Pad002.Length + etc.

Wire 1 - 12/2 147” to subpanel

Looking from inside house

First wire staple here

131” 12/2 to B2

Module 27

Module Map

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Bedrooms Map

Box type, CI, device, wall plate definition

B31

B20

B19

B10

B11

B12

B13

B15

B18

B16

B17

B14

B21

B22

B23

B24

B27

B25

B26

B28

B29

B30

B32

B34

B36

B35

B33

B22-26 are high, then drop to 27

Duplex, 2 of 4 devices - 28 CI;

(double blank)

32.5 CI w/ 2 devices

Light 12CI

2nd Floor

Light 12CI

High 16 CI(2Dev)

18 CI- Feedthru

Low

14/2 20 ci

U on other side

14/2

Closest bay bottom

14/2 16ci. No clamps, 1 devices =14 ci.

Mid bay

16 ci

12/2

14/2

12/2

Closest bay top

14/2 16 ci, 14 ci if no internal clamp, 2 dev

Mid bay

14/2 16 ci

Mid bay

14/2 12 ci

Mid bay

12/2 18 ci

14/2

16 ci

12/2

2 smoke alarms

Light

14/2 from here

18 CI single

22.5 CI

combo

16 CI

Design Notes:

Heavy light fixture box would require 16 ci if it had the remote inside. Thus, place remote in upstream box.
Can consider excess wire to reduce box size.
Need to use 1.5” flat box for outside lights - receiver doesn’t fit inside

20 CI

w/remote

22.5 CI

combo

14/2

16 CI

<1A for 2 fans

<1A for 2 lights

12CI

8CI

22.5 CI combo

All bedroom outlets 15A, but on 20A circuit. Retains about 900W at 100’ w/ 2% v drop. 5% drop is passable. Farthest point is 100’ for >1A loads

14/2 to light

12/2

14/2

to light

22.5 CI

Combo

12/2 feed, 14/2 onwards

They do have single at 24.5 ci but new work only

20 CI

w/remote

12/2 18CI

round

12/2 18CI

round

12/2 18CI

round

12/2 18CI

round

12/2 18CI

round

12/2 18CI

12/2 22.5CI

B37

B38

14/2-20 ci

B39-40

B41-B42

Vanity 2 - 2 device - 20 ci

Vanity 1 - 2 device 20 ci

K6*

B32B

Hood vent

Starts at subpanel going straight to 2nd floor

12/2

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Box L16 - Living Room by Main Door - Module 20 - CAD

Looking from inside the house

Box 36

Box 37

Box 38

Module Map

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F3 - Fridge - Module 51

CAD

Looking from inside the house

Connect to Subpanel

14/2/2 - 79.5’ home run

Circuit runs along front of house

Add 2’ for doors + 12’ for house. Take greater of.

70.5’ + 9’ = 79.5’ home run

69.5’ + 9’ = 78.5’ home run

Box 36

Box 37

Box 38

Module Map

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F1 - Fridge - Module 16

Looking from inside the house

Connect to Box F2

F2 - Chest Fridge - Module 17

Looking from inside the house

Connect to Box F3

13’-4” 14/2 wire

To 37

To 38

Box F1

Box F2

Box F3

CAD

Fridge

First Line

stops at second box

Box 38

Box 37

Box 36

house

Module Map

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Wire Lengths

31 vs 43 feet - 12 feet longer wire

Freezer (multiwire)

Fridge (horizontal)

Fridge (Vertical))

8’ - 14 ga

Canopy

11’ - 14 ga

2nd Story Bath

From drop hole - 21.5’ total . 22’ actual. - 6.5’ to light, 15’ to outlet - 14 ga

Garage:

Front lights: (living room circuit)

Routing - take data

Light
GFCI
Garage Opener+Signal

Fridge:

36 - main fridge receptacle - 8’ 14 ga. Drawing.
14/2/2 with refrigerator. 14/2/2 to horiz fridge , 14/2 to fridge.

Clamp djustable to panel width

Fixed clamp

Clamp for adjusting location in bays

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Electrical Design Process: Global Collaborative Electrical Design

Generating electrical design takes an hour an electrical box. How to streamline?
Answer:

For new design - Box Source File: All boxes available at correct height for height (floor 1&2) , version (singe, double, light, etc)
Once a unit is designed - such as a room - it is good for ever. There may be different connections going to the room, but that reduces work by 80%

Current Process:

Build Box Source File
Extract wall modules a circuit at a time into an Electrical Master File: bed, living, kitchen, etc. Insert only critical wall modules and routing detail information, which can be studied for procedures.
Work on one circuit at a time:

Concept Design. Generate Electrical Concept Design with correct box locations, perform box fill calculations, select boxes.
Master Electrical CAD. Generate Master Electrical that includes relevant framing modules.
Specific CAD. From Master Electrical and Master House file, insert framing, box, + beadboard into a dedicated file. Upload immediately.
Tech Drawing. Generate a tech drawing with all the correct dimensions, looking from the side facing you as you install
Document. Paste tech drawing into the Documentation Master Work Doc
Extract Wire Lengths . Return to full house file or Electrical to measure distances for wire length, by tracing through a detailed route which considers actual placement. Document correct lengths in the Master Work Doc
Upload Tech Drawing. Upload the individual Tech Drawing to the Electrical Boxes Part Library on the wiki
Update Master Electrical CAD. Paste the box into the Master Electrical file, and save a new version of the Master Electrical on the wiki
Repeat. Move on to the next box in the Electrical Concept Design

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Electrical Blueprints Generation Procedure for New Circuits 2

Continued:

After finishing all circuits, extract all wall modules from Master CAD, make them transparent, and add all the Master Electrical CAD wall modules. This will give you a visual for the outstanding wall modules.

Generate Tech drawings for the outstanding modules.
If any modules got electrical penetrations, make sure you include these penetrations.

After all wall modules are fitted with MEP and penetrations - replace the modules in the Master CAD with the specific modules from the electrical CAD. This gets us a complete design to LOD 500.

Keep source in the Electrical CAD (or other working CAD)
Use dumb object compounds for the Master CAD
Goal is to include even the fasteners in CAD, so that we can improve fasteners as well

This allows us to track the number and cost, and ultimately to extract fully detailed BOMs down to fastener usage and cost.
Whatever can be measured can be improved

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Electrical Blueprints Generation Procedure for New Circuits 1

Process:

Import limited CAD from main file for one circuit

Include framing only
Eliminate all modules that do not have boxes. This is now the Master Electrical CAD.

Start the design process

Inspect framing in main file for routing such as utility channel, beadboard, penetrations needed, etc. - for the Routing Narrative below. Document routing narrative and other info below
Survey the most efficient and effective routing
Ignore beadboard for now, as that is another step later.

Exceptions:

Ceiling vents
Bathroom wall
Behind tub etc - wall modules

Use a template for Work Docs to seed documentation for all boxes, which prepares the way for CAD:

Junction box type and number - single, double, round, other
Device type and number - outlet, none (light), light receiver, other
Wire(s) feeding module - type of wire and length, which box it feeds from
Wire(s) going downstream - type (ex 12/3), number of them, where to
Wire(s) to devices in module - type, number of them
Penetrations required in this module
Routing narrative - brief description of how to route - in ute chan vs not, holes needed, path taken, cautions, etc.

Interconnections made to _____ (previous module number)

Connections back to current module will be made later

Protector plates - needed or not, where.
Other notes and cautions - Discuss quality control if any

Seed the Work Doc with placeholders for all the modules in a circuit at one time. This allows collaboration and streamlines the process.

Generate boxes in CAD

Create boxes in Box Generator:

Generator creates a ‘Wire Routing Box’ - box with stub wires going down
A tech-drawing friendly version of a box - box only, which is included in the CAD.
Generator contains all types of boxes used, places them at the correct height (floor 1 and 2), routing and tech-draw versions. The 2 versions are coupled into 1 object, can be turned to any angle (E, W, N, S walls).

Wall box
Light above doors
Kitchen counter outlets
Bathroom counter outlets
Bath Vent fan
Ceiling Vent fan

Add all boxes to Master Electrical CAD
Add your notes to the Work Doc.

Generate CAD+ Tech Drawing for single Wall Module

Extract Framing + Boxes for module of interest
Save and upload to Part Library
Create a Compound for the Tech Draw workbench, do not include the wire
Use 3 views, generate dimensions.
Upload version with Tech Draw to part library. Continue to upload work in progress for tag-teaming. Protocol is to “work from the most recent version” meaning you check if the upload is more recent than your desktop version.
Cut and paste the tech drawing into the Work Doc for the given module, and add any further annotations

Draw lines for the circuit

Extract wire length by first routing the wire in CAD, then summing the pad lengths. Document length in the Work Doc

Use Master Electrical CAD and complete all the modules with electrical.

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Blueprint Generation Step 1

Process: 1 hr 10 min for B10-B34

Import limited CAD from main file for 1 circuit

Include framing only
Eliminate all modules that do not have boxes. This is now the Master Electrical CAD.

Start the design process

Inspect main CAD for routing narrative

Seed Tech Drawings in Working Doc

Junction box type - single, double, round, other
Number of boxes -
Device type - outlet, none (light), light receiver, other
Number of devices - in each box
Wire(s) feeding module - type of wire and length, which box it feeds from
Wire(s) to downstream - type (ex 12/3), number of them, where to
Wire(s) to devices in module - type, number of them
Penetrations required in this module
Routing narrative - brief description of how to route - in ute chan vs not, holes needed, path taken, cautions, etc.
Protector plates - needed or not, where.
Other notes and cautions - Discuss quality control if any

B31

B20

B19

B10

B11

B12

B13

B15

B18

B16

B17

B14

B21

B22

B23

B24

B27

B25

B26

B28

B29

B30

B32

B34

B35

B33

B22-26 are high, then drop to 27

Junction box

Duplex

28 cu in

Duplex

28 cu in

Light 12CI

High

HIgh

Low

Simple Penetration high

Include Utility Channel with interior framing so that wires are run on the correct side of the wall

U on other side

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Bedroom Electrical

Notes:

Smoke alarms
Outlets
Lights
GFCI exterior outlet
Bath Vent Fan
Through-wall fan
Red border means the module contains wires, stripped and semi-fed-through the box
Always put a wire in an upstream box, so that you can feed to an existing, located box.

Wireless:

[2] bath vent
[2] main bath lights
[2] vanity lights
[3] bedroom
Terrace
[2] Living room
Kitchen
Canopy Light
Garage
Garage Front Lights
[2] stairs
[2] hallway

Drops to 1st floor. Quad box 60 ci, 1 outlet

B31

B20

B19

B10

B11

B12

B13

B15

B16

B17

B18

B14

B21

B22

B23

B24

B26

B25

B27

B28

B29

B30

B32

B34

Mount the receivers in light fixtures. Have 2 RC devices for fans.

B 33 - 32 CI double box for dedicated receiver box, no outlets. B34- Single 20 ci outlet box with power to 2 lights does the job. Can do in a 4 gang box - if have one outlet.

B34

B35

B33

Distance here just makes 12’ from B2

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Pairing of Remote Switches

Connect receiver to power
Press and hold button on receiver for 3 seconds to pair.
Press the switch. That’s it.
To erase programming, hold down receiver until light on the receiver flashes 3 times.

Corollary:

If we press another receiver for pairing, then there is no reason why the same switch could not be paired to as many other receivers as we like.
If we press the same receiver for 3 seconds to enable pairing, then there is no reason why as many switches as you like could not be paired to the same receiver.

Workflow:

We should be able to benchtop pair everything, label the switches/receivers, remove power source, then install.

Challenge:

The only issue is - when power goes out, all lights will go on when power resets.

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Broan Fan Wiring

Determine wire length
Connect pigtail to internal Broan fan box, use a plug to finish off and staple to Module i1 for first floor and i22 for 2nd floor
Connect upstream to junction box with receiver

manual

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Light Cavity with Fan - by Front Door

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Optimization Since SH2

Wireless allows:

Power bath 2 by junction on bed 1 outlet. This is easy because it’s the double wall.
Go up from that point to Bath 2.
Go down from that point to Bath 1
Simple in concept

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Overhead Crane

overheadrail.fcstd

Build Procedure:

Attach a 2x6 under existing ridge with ply plates (use 1.5” nails):
Attach 2x6 strongback to these, and reinforce with plywood on on the underside of strongback assy
Make the carriage assembly and slip it on the strongback rail
Put stops on both ends of carriage

Step 1:

Cut 12x12 plates
Attach plates to ridge on both sides as temp hold, on both ends of each 16’bay
Attach a holder rope to ridge at one holder locations
Prepare a 16’ 2x6 so we span entire bay and screw into the holder plates.
Slop the 2x6 in so the rope holds it while you attach the other side
Attach to ridge with short nails/screws (cordless nailer)
Do each bay. Once bays are finished, reinforce the 1st 2x6 with more plates.

Step 2:

Reattach rope to suspend the 2nd 2x6
Add the second 2x6 using the rope to hold at one end and screw in on the other end.

Use 16’ long members if possible, but stagger the breaks and span each workshop bay junction

Then reinforce with plywood on the underside

Step 3:

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Overhead Crane

overheadrail.fcstd

Concept started here.

½” OSB

Core is a strongback made from 2x4 connected to a 2x6, hung with OSB and reinforced on the bottom with ¾” OSB or plywood

Carriage is ¼” steel plate

Gap is 0.25” between carriage and rail bottom

Gap is 1/8” between rail and carriage side

½” OSB hangs the structure from the roof.

1st 2x6

5.5”

2x6

2nd 2x6

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Overhead Crane

overheadrail.fcstd

Design Rationale:

Hang from existing ridge using OSB bonding plates
Straddle the 2x4 of rail + ridge with OSB, to reinforce it
Use 2x6 as rail
2x6 to 2x4 connection is Simpson HD wood screws, 5” on 16” center
¾” ply reinforcement on bottom
600 lb design strength

Build Procedure:

Attach a 2x6 under existing ridge (use 1.5” nails):
Attach 2x6 strongback to these
Reinforce with plywood

Add 12x12 plates to existing ridge with2-⅜” nails or 1.5” nails with siding nailer as temp attachment
Attach a 2x6 to them, in easy increments such as 8’-16’ work in 1 bay increments - cover one bay

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Single Source Box

Singlesourcebox .fcstd

Design Rationale:

Seed a box so you can immediately choose which wall and which direction it goes
One more selection for up-down, forward-back.
Simplest route: use box only, no wires, just measure distances in CAD for the proposed routing, as drawing out the wires is too time consuming

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Measureless Beadboard Cutting Jig

Beadboardjig.fcstd

Concept started here.

Design Rationale:

Problem statement: how to cut the last piece of beadboard to size (at corners etc) whenever an entire sheet of beadboard is used?

The promise is extreme speed of cutting is due to the ¾” or 1.5” tolerance, since every corner is trimmed
Measures 3 points, in case walls are off vertical, for maximum design-for-tolerancing

To achieve the simplest way to cut without measuring, apply the measureless cutting jig
The jig is a beadboard edge that superposes over the leading edge of the last panel installed
Telescoping straight edge sticks out until it hits the wall
Jig is moved to a sheet of beadboard, and the straight edge is used with the measureless cutting jig.
Jig locates at the trailing edge via a locking edge
Key concepts used:

Measureless cutting jig in action (using a straight edge to cut directly, without cutting the straight edge)
Telescoping to lock in the distance along a whole line
Locking edge on the jig itself

Fix to beadboard side with duplex nail so it’s easy to extend other side.

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Electrical Box Jig

boxjig.fcstd

Design Rationale:

Jig is immediately (3 seconds) removable with 2 toggle clamps
Jig bottoms out with edge of workpiece
2 toggle clamps hold jig securely to beadboard for routing
Jig is measureless

Centering done via telescoping guide

Templates are modular/interchangeable. Located with 2 pins

Workpiece Beadboard

Modular Template

Locating Holes

1x2

Toggle clamp

Template Spacer

Workpiece Spacer

1x4

Plane this edge so workpiece slides in easily

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Painting

Sill + Top Plate

Initial beadboard

Interior Framing

Module Connections

Blocking

Apertures

Devices

Bead

Board

Surface-

Mount Devices

Elect boxes, lights, HVAC, elect devices, kitchen, cabinets

Doors

Trim

Paint

Finish Floor

2 Ceilings

13.125” dolly

Interior Paint

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Finish Trim

Is there closure trim above header wall? Yes, will be.

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Window Trim

SH4 Door + Window Trim Album

Notes: 36x60 windows have 35-⅝”x59-⅝” outer dimensions

But there are 2 window types, here is the second:

Issue: some of the treated wood sticks out with the existing frames. Spray paint it white or white- caulk it?

Suggestion: reduce frame interior size to 35”x59-⅝” (keep full height due to apparent weep hole in bottom). Caulk bottom/top with white so none of the treated frame shows.

Bonding plates work well:

15 ga finish nails for stained trim to 1x4 window trim. 2” nails pull through the stained edge trim. Of 4, 1 came out, 3 pulled through. Use 2” 15 ga exterior finish nails. Ideally, ring shank, but ring shank 15 ga does not exist.

Easiest route for future window trim: ideally use windows with built-in j-channel, then nail the trim assembly, while planning on going through short pieces of siding. Drill a hole 3x the size of the fastener, caulk it.

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Cabinet Build + Hinges

Cabinetry 101

Menards overlay concealed hinges

Installation instructions

Install hinges: use a jig for concealed cabinet hinges:

Brackets

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Kitchen Cabinets

Install Cabinet 1. Take cabinet 1 and attach 1x4 spacer to it with [2] 1.25” deck screws from the outside

Install cabinet 1 with spacer, screwing through the spacer
Attach with screws to back wall

Trim. Install bottom trim piece to laundry. Or is that done after, before kickboard?
Route & Drill Cabinet 2. Route out top half of back of sink cabinet for easy MEP (drain, water, electric) and drill a 2” hole for washer plug + water supply + drain.

Prep the Dishwasher. Attach power cord, drain tube, and watter supply hose.

Dry fit Cabinet 2. Push dishwasher into place, with its electrical, water, drain lines routed through hole.

Install dishwasher
Fix Cabinet 2 to back wall studs with screws.

Install Cabinet 3.

Finish screw to Cabinet 2.
Screw to the back wall

Cabinets are painted when and how?

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Ceiling Vents

Design - Treat it as an insert that is finish-nailed from exposed studs, 3 piece, assembly bottoms out agains subfloor using correct spacers. Design for tolerancing is via casing trim. Think of it as a u-insert of equal height as stud.

Use Wallo 7” access panel
Use 4x10” Howeal remote control fan
Prep the assembly before installation
Make entire assembly (nailed or screwed) - where all components are screwed in or old work for full serviceability.

Use 3 assemblies, stagger the beadboard properly.
¾” design for tolerancing using 2.25” casing menards

Components of assembly

Electrical Box
Outlet
Cover plate
Fan
(not register - it goes on other side, routed

Design for routing)

Wallo access panel
Wire assembly
Register/fan nailing
Light receptacle and light wiring
Wire stapled pigtails (2 wires)

Actual fan used:

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Powering the Vent + Vent Grates

Hardwired Transformers

LPV-20-12 or LPV-35-12 RU

dimensions

Sourcing:

Better yet: access panel to hide the existing wallwort instead of using other transformers

Menards - Wallo round, 5 or 7”
Use recessed receptacle, mounted under the register, accessible via round access panel

Looks good from outside - wire is tucked under the lip of the AC Infinity fan.

Use shallow old work box behind access panel

Wallo

Download FreeCAD File - Bedroom 1 Vent

AC Infinity Fan comes in 4x10, 4x12, 6x10 sizes.
We can mount vertically (display will be 90 degrees)
Both images above use vertical orientation, as space on wall to hallway is tight.

6x10” version

4x10” version

Router base size. Direction of floor.

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Installing a Hardwired 12V Transformer in a Junction Box

Problem statement

Wire up a through-wall fan which is hardwired.
120V wires must be in a junction box
Transformer can be outside. Case of transformer grounded.

Issue: transformer not accessible!
While transformer can be wired safely, when transformer fails, it is not accessible even in old work boxes unless you can wiggle the box+tranformer out somehow

Outlet Box (accessible)

120 AC

Transformer

12 DC

knockout

Solution:

High and low V separate
Transformer not easily accessible
High V junction is inside the box.
Low V junction is outside the box
Conclusion: this works if one doesn’t have the Arlington LV box - as long as everything can be fit inside a wall penetration and can be taken out to service. Most likely, much of this type install is unserviceable, if old-work boxes are not used. Key: old work, so the box is serviceable.

Outlet Box (accessible)

120 AC

Transformer

12 DC

High and low V inside same box if low V junction is inside the box -
Transformer accessible
If the nipple were to the outside, then low v would be outisde and no violation would occur.

Outlet Box (accessible)

120 AC

Transformer

High and low V separate
Transformer accessible
This is the same as with case 1 above, with guaranteed serviceability of the transformer.

Low V side

12 DC

Solutions: 3-gang or 4 gang coverplate over 2 separate boxes. Or 4 gang box that can wiggle out of wall hole even when it has the transformer.

Or oversized box hole? Not, as you could not attach old work box.

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Garage Wire Lengths

Notes:

Breaker panel is installed after the wall modules, therefore the length to the breaker box must be exact to sheathing strip point.
12/2 to GFCI - 38’
14/2 to light - 20’6”
14/2 power to door opener - 21’6’ (making it 24’ since exact switch location not known)
14/2 signal to door opener - 19’6’ (from switch-level height)

Make it 24’ since location of opener is unclear

Start at the back house side

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Heat Pump Penetration + Blocking

Source. Former doc and wiki.
Instructions do not match template. Which is correct?

Diagram is not to scale - though the critical dimension (right hole to right finger) is close; 10.6” in template, 10.8 in diagram

They don’t say which is Model D, so judging by template of 47” length, that is Model D.
Line set is 16 feet.

Key Dimension

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MEP + HVAC Utility Subassembly Preparation

Concept: prepare the functional units (HVAC + MEP) as much as possible prior to installing them into modules at the wall module build step or wall module installation setp - by digital design. Includes cutting pipe/wire/other lengths. The counterintuitive part is that the little steps are just details. The reality is that the little steps and measurement take up most of the installation time, so are best suited for benchtop work where everything is accessible and organized. Installation is best suited for fitting things into place not freestyle but from blueprints.

Markings
Penetrations
Device assemblies

Box + Pigtail
Electrical Box + Fittings
Heat Pump and fittings

Electrical assemblies

Meter Base - expansion coupling 1, box fitting 2, box nut 3, 4 insulation bushing, ground rod fitting nut 5, ground wire fitting 6, 7 insulation bushing to main breaker box, box nut 8, box fitting 9. Interface: to ‘interstem’ between elbow and expansion coupling.

Conceptual - 3 wires feed from transformer to power meter.

Power fittings are both 3”, ground is ½”

Transformer

3-wire

Power Meter

3-wire

Mains

3 wire + ground bonded

Transfer Switch

3 wire + ground separate

Inverter

3 wire + ground

separate

Subpanel

3 wire + ground

separate

Everything downstream of Transfer switch is protected, but any shorts between transfer switch or inverter and mains is not protected. If bond occurred at transfer switch, transfer switch is grounded but not breaker-protected (could have meltdown between transfer switch and subpanel. If subpanel were bonded, a short could travel down the ground for a meltdown, instead of tripping the breaker. Breakers at Mains could possibly protect this condition. For everything to be breaker protected - keep ground separate until breaker box. So if hot shorts with neutral, breaker pops. But, if hot shorts to ground, …………………….

DC Disc

AC Disc

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Routing of PV to Main Panel

From roof, go down back wall
Go through corner to first bay of module 67

Disconnect

Subpanel requires separation of neutral and ground

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Disconnect

30A
Run 1/2” LFMC with connectors to inverter feed with 10 ga THHN wire
Thin wall hole saw if needed - ⅞”

Transfer Switch

Inverter - TP6048

10 ga DC input 360 SC Vin
10/3 input from Subpanel.

To optimize routing, put PV disconnect on other side of Inverter

from Combiner

Optimizing Service Entrance 2

subpanel

LR220-BDD manual.

LP212 manual.

DC disconnect

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12 ga PV wire, Voc=37VDC

After derating, Vmp=230Vdc,

3 strings of 9 combined
PV can be grounded at the service entrance panel using the same ground. Use 6 ga al or 8 ga copper.
Panel frames should be grounded. 10 or 12 ga ok. See video about inverter inducing AC at the panels.

Combiner (howto U. Maryland)

3 strings of input at 360Vsc and 8A each
Output is 10 ga wire, 24A
On roof means that combiner is not readily accessible, needs accessible disconnect.
Once we go inside house, we need metal raceways - LFMC, MC cable, rigid, etc.
Third wire from combiner is 8 ga ground. Connects to lugs on panels (all 3 strings) and passes through the combiner box.
THWN-2 is preferred after combiner.

Disconnect

30A
Run 1/2” LFMC with connectors to inverter feed with 10 ga THHN wire
Thin wall hole saw if needed - ⅞”

Transfer Switch

Inverter - TP6048

10 ga DC input 360 SC Vin
from Combiner

Optimizing Service Entrance 1

100A SER cable

Subpanel

(main lug

or breaker)

Transfer Switch

279Vmp + 333 v OC

Outdoor load center. Can be wired as main or sub-panel. 4 wire - separate ground to main box. Transfer switch has 4 wires - neutral and ground connected. Bonding strap appears not to be factory installed.

LR220-BDD manual.

LP212 manual.

Main box back to back with transfer switch

Meter base

Inverter

DC disconnect

Must thread 30A DC wire before installing beadboard

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Layout

2nd Floor Electrical

Jig CAD

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Quick release from base with 4 toggle clamps

Toggle Release

Saw Jig CAD

Needs more space here to accommodate toggle clamp.

Move fin forward so it catches the jig more easily without need to extend jig and so it clear the corner guide

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This works, for either side:

Simple Edge Guide Allows Cutting of Exact Lengths Without Measuring

Jig CAD

Or:

Edge-guiding material

2x4

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If you know you are riding on-edge studs - this works, for either side:

Fork not necessary - only mid guide works well. Can straddle 2x8 lumber

Simple Edge Guide Jig Allows Cutting of Exact Lengths Without Measuring

Jig CAD

Or:

Edge-guiding material

2x4

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Saw Guide Problem Statement

I hava a stop on the left
I want to use the OSB sheet to cut the 2x4 to exactly the width of the OSB sheet, or use another physical marker such as a piece of 2x lumber?
How do I use a regular saw - freehand - to use the right edge of the OSB as a guide for the exact cut so that the 2x4 matches the 4’ OSB exactly? Or the 2x, so I can cut on either side of it?
Solution: Modified base is a raised rail, and it rides along the edge of the guiding material.. Note it can cut off on either side of the 2x4 edge. Orange is the lumber you are cutting off to size.

Note the modified base either straddles the material you want to cut, or the base is elongated:

OSB sheet, 4x8

Or other edge-guiding material

2x4 lumber

OSB sheet, 4x8

OSB edge

or 2x4 edge

2x4 edge

Modified base

2x4 edge

Wherever you ride this rail you cut. So you can cut on 2 sides of the stud

Edge-guiding material

2x4

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Saw Guide Industry Standards

Industry standards:

Kreg saw jig - attach saw to base,

base slides in a guide

Simple MDF step jig - now, how to adjust

Innovate: simplest base for cutting by using edge of workpiece as the guide. ,Turning your circular saw into edge-guided cutoff saw

Guide - attached to base.

In front and back of blade.

Skateplate. Cutting guide with rolling fence. Is there one like this with inset?

2.125 depth

Back of guide: is raised

Guiding edge

Raised back of saw plate

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Interior Modules - Jig v2

CAD. Prior work - Jig v1

43 modules. Number of parts: 12 per module, 16 for door module.with 4 verticals. Measureless design. Cutting only is required. 8 cuts take 2 minutes. Proces is picking up [2] 9’ precuts, placing,nailing x4, and 8’ precut, and some more.
All locators hold from both sides, and frame a nailing location
Door and Regular are 2 main modules but what about height + width variation

Use additional markers for other widths

Additional stops for all sizes of blocking

4’ cutoff channel

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SH4 Interior Modules Workflow

2x4, 9’ (or 8’)

2x4, 9’

Parts Table

Electrical Boxes

Wire D, PEX

Water

Plumbing

Water:

Water Supply assembly
PEX fittings
Shower trim
Supply valves
Supply lines - 3 sinks, 2 toilets, washer, dishwasher
PEX pipe, ½”&¾”
PEX hanger clamps, ½” & ¾”

Electrical

Plumbing:

PVC pipe
PVC fittings
Test caps + plugs
Pipe strap
Glue + Primer
Washer supply box
Water heater pan fittings

Tools:

Electrical:

1,2,3 gang box
Regular, heavy, and shallow round box
Heat Pump shutoff
30A switch (aux water)
15A light switches
Box covers
Box adapters
Motion sensor light kit
12/2, 12/3, 14/2, 14/3, 10/2, 10/3 wire
2 bath fans
3 circulation fans

Jig

Workflow:

Move pallet of 2x4x9 precut into the workshop next to work table, tractor then precise with pallet jack

Slide pallets from work table via hoist

Overhead hoist to forks to trailer

Hoist + Forks = Zero lifting of modules during build and loading -> effort can be sustained for 8 hour days with minimal fatigue

Stack 4 high on trailer. Order matters

Continued in Doc 6

Parts

Lumber

Work table

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Bottom and Top Plate Technique

Plumb Bob Procedure

Install bottom plate as it is easy to measure on the ground.

Go right across doors, with notches from bottom for later cutout

Install 1x4 top plate
Drop Plumb Bob. Use laser level.

Attach plumb bob string to one arm of clamp
Clamp so 1 clamp arm holds string on edge of top ¼
Move 1x4 until bob hits the edge of the 2x4.

1x4

2x4

Notes

Design for tolerancing - addressed by starting from critical dimensions, spilling over to extra space
Uses non-measurement (landmarks) as much as possible.

For example, door cutout - we can set the stair wall sill plate from the top, without measuring.

After sill plates are done via measurement and survey, we take data on as-build space and modify any module sizes as needed.
We account for ergonomics. For example, landing to be built right after sill plates, as it is harder to install it after the walls are in place (requires lifting)

Not!

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Interior Finishing Planning

Process:

Install ceiling beadboard 2nd fl. Install garage beadboard ceiling. 8 hr from penetration and wiring cheatsheets. Beadboard transported to 2nd floor. ~80 to top floor.
Mark sill plate and top plate - interior. Helps locate everything. 2 hrs once blueprint available.
Build cheatsheets for each exterior blocking/penetration. 12 hrs for build cheatsheets. Having equipment available.

Exterior Blocking, apertures. Without interference of interior walls. 2 hrs once cheatsheets available.
Exterior boxes + pigtails + penetrations for electrical. 3 hrs from build cheatsheets, itemized by module.
Exterior lights, GFCI outlets, Electrical Enclosures, heat pump mounting. 1:30 from build cheatsheet

Build plumbing assemblies. 1:30 from cheatsheets + parts.
Build PEX assemblies. 1 hr from cheatsheets + parts. Do while picking parts.
Install sill plate. 1 hr from marked location.
Install top plate. 1 hr from marked location.
Make wall modules with boxes, pigtails, plumbing, PEX assemblies, others.
Install wall modules
Interconnect plumbing and electrical as you go along.
Fill insulation.
Do beadboard and trim.

Canopy - do drip cap retrofit

Main Downspout FInish

Finish small missing stained piece on back

Top + Bottom window trim redo

Garage Door

Carpet seam. Butyl tape. Some hold-down staples?

Itemize and count to enable data collection.

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Penetrations 1

Toilet

Main Drain

Floor plan includes apertures
CAD for floor 1

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Penetrations - Tools

Spiral upcut ¼”
Can pierce for cutouts - windows, boxes, etc
Can use bushing for template cutting

Spiral flush trim upcut ¼”
Needs edge entry or drill to start
Windows, electrical boxes, etc.

Compact routers are 2.73” diameter (69 mm). Can we use them for holes instead of hole saws?
Compact sub base for better control
V point spiral upcut should work

Hole in 30 seconds from turning on router.

Plunge Base $82. Router $162.

2.5”

Cordless + quick blade release

Quick-Change Router Bushings

Dewalt to Ridgid Adapter

$22

$20

$21

$8 upcut

$10

$15

$14 UDC

$13 C

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Wire Dispensing + Wire Length Formula

House Extension - 12 feet longer wire

Notes

To every horizontal location along wall add:

Add 24” until termination at floor outlet on ech end, 4’ total

This makes wire stick out 12” from back of box

But - every box should be located in mid of wall module to facilitate routing (never a conflict with edge + centered in module for mid bay)

Centering adds 6”+ at each box, 12” total

Thus the formula (including rise at 2 sides) for bottom boxes is horizontal distance + 5’
+2’ - Each mid-module straight-down drop has 2 feet of wire to horizontal point.
For subpanel termination (including rise at 2 sides) - use horizontal distance + 9’
For regular light switch - Use horizontal distance + 7’
More generic formula - use horiz distance straight through doors + 5, 7, or 9’ as above + door crossing vertical = 13.5’: horizontal straight-through + Termination + n*13.5’ where n is the number of door crossings. 13.5’ is 2 rises of 80” each.

Wire pulling jig:

Has stud-mounting bracket
Should be able to pull right through a stud-mounted dispenser and through a 1” hole.
Need to set up specifically for clockwise vs counterclockwise pullof
For bidirectional pulling - use 2 measurements - one to each end. Place spool near wall hole.

The spooling strategy should be documented prior to build, can save 2-5x the wire pulling time
Ideally, pull to a device, attach with staples as you go along. Staple cost is 3 cents every 4.5’ max

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Electrical Box Pigtailing

Theory:

Digital design allows for wire precut and prep during the module-build phase. Here are the electrical boxes and wire lengths, redesigned from last year’s electrical design:

Module level information required:

Wire length
Staple locations
Box location and type (switch, floor outlet, bath outlet, kitchen outlet, wall light, smoke alarm, etc)
Special device mounting - include bath fan etc.

Box selection.

Not 3615109 type

Quick-wire outlet selection, quick-click boxes

3615109

SH2 - had to notch for the protruding clamps. BS design.

Recessed clamps ok

source

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Edge Cases

Manual + 2d CAD

Joists

studs

Wires need to come out the sides if mounted on face of stud

Doesn’t work also bc wires go out the back

Wires go out the sides

K-klamps co out the side

The only box with sufficiently wide flange. Can we solve this?

Theory:

Edge cases are the irregularities in a build process: while most of the items are regular, there are typically a few edge cases which eat up all the build time. For effective workflow, eliminate them or design them out via design-for-tolerancing. This way, all electrical box installs are as fast as the fastest case.
Fastest case:

Router Jig for electrical Box.
Old work box installed.

With mount blocks. Get rid of mount blocks whenever possible

Does not work -
New strategy: back-screwed box, regular

Can’t be prewired.
After cutting beadboard, insert and screw into the blocking. Blocking has 3.5” width, thus up to 1.75” tolerance (more if use wider 2x)

Unusual cases:

load-bearing ceiling fixtures:
Motion-activated light - sensor

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Fast Wiring

Stick wire in hole then clamp down (click on picture for source)

Leviton Decora Edge 15A push-click-done outlets. NEC compliant. Code compliant in all areas?

Leviton Decora Edge has a gauge for write stripping length

To install, ground must be doubled with Wago 3

5 gal bucket to sit on

Prehook wires, but better yet, use quick-connect outlets.

Conclusions:

Use commercial grade receptacles with backwire clamp for 20A

Decorator - Faith Backwire- $2
Regular - Legrand commercial grade backwire with pressure plates. $2.5 TR5362WCP6 - Menards is 2x more expensive?

Use Leviton Decora Edge for 15A $2.5

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Electrical Ergonomics

Theory:

Electrical is highly repetitive and frustrated by task switching between several aspects:

Determining hole locations
Measuring holes
Drilling holes
Locating electrical boxes
Cutting out box locations
Locating boxes
Attaching boxes to wall
Fixing mounting blocking
Wire length measurement on wall + dispenser
Wire labeling
Wire stripping
Wire planning
Wire routing
Wire stapling
Walking to-fro wire dispenser
Switching between wire types
Circuit testing - continuity at module phase
Terminating wires
Breakers
Grounds
Taping bunches or ends
Adding conduit
Adding fittings at boxes
Device wiring in boxes + interconnecting nodes + testing from breaker panel. (outlets, switches)- key is quick-wire devices, going wireless whenever possible
Mounting electrical fixtures on boxes

Solution:

Integrated design-build calls for reducing the 27 steps to 3:

Design + module build stage addresses most of the work up to stripping wires, ready for device wiring and greatly reducing typical ‘device wiring’ time

Uses insight: Most of the time in electrical work is running and preparing wires - the actual wire connections to devices on both sides of a circuit (breaker to device) are simply screwing down 3 wires and 2 mouning screws: in principle

Most steps go into module build stage
Several are done at other phases or eliminated
5% Wiring + Interconnection, mounting boxes, connecting devices, 5% of stapling, fixtures are now done at the ‘electrical phase’ - meaning that of the 25 steps, we have effectively done 23 and need to do only 2 - or about 10% of the work, indicating 10x speed increase.

Technique:

Dispense, measure, Cut, strip, label, locate, drill holes, route wire, staple, partially terminate, circuit test, fix mounting blocking - at the module build stege

Key to this is a box+pigtail combo stapled and coiled into module. Wire attached to box, but not through built-in circuit clamps
Design-for-tolerancing (independent cut of beadboard and box locating) uses old work boxes with built-in circuit clamps

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House Ceiling Ergonomics

Notes

Marking prep, logistics, placement, nailing are the 4 main parts of the job
Mounting sheet on lift +Lifting a sheet into position - under 2 minutes in video
Nailing off

Limiting factor is knowing where to nail
Nailing itself is 3 nails/sec max

Procedure:

Set sheet 1
Nail 1 finish nail along 2 long edges at each joist, 1 row at a time

10 nails total, 2 rows
Do 3 in the middle - 12” in the field
Do each short edge, 6” spacing

Continue to Sheet 2-4, then other rows

4 (and all front panels) is cut to size - use width cutting jig
Short-edge-of-house panels are cut.

Back of House

Ceiling

Floor

Laser about 7’ high clears scaffolding

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Garage light with Garage door opener Outlet

Light screws in to other outlet. There are many screw-in light options.

Concept: use 2 round boxes. Same pull-string base. Light is on a wall light switch. Garage outlet is plugged in to other. Garage opener power is always on, but a light can also be used with pull string.

Garage door opener plugs into one outlet.

Installation instructions.

12” separation E-W in garage

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Beadboard notes

Data

House is about 2” longer - see last joist. How does that affect the beadboard on walls? Cut the first sheet on East longer?

Jigs:

Do a vertical and horizontal measuring jig - master it so it has a ready straight edge.

Jig must lock the tape. Tape must have a hook so jig does not move - no clamp.
Same jig for measuring as cutting saves 2x the time.
Must consider righ and left cutoff
Vertical jig is 8’, horizontal jig is 4’ long. We could also use a tiny utility channel measuring jig, and joist closure measuring jig.

Improvements:

Interior beadboard blocking in garage. Why are we not doing it?

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Ceiling Beadboard

House Cutout: Cutout for bathroom light - old work, no blocking.

3.5” hole saw + box preinstalled
4.5’ from tub wall, 2.5’ from back wall
Wire length: 21.5’ - added 2 feet extra as need

to run along joist

Installation in House:

Move materials to 2nd floor - stand panels on bed of pickup
Mark all joist locations (46) on the vertical walls for nailing (as they will be hidden)
Mark for panel fit

Measure 1 panel to see if it is exactly 96” long.
Use a laser level to split the first joist (thick red) in half
Measure from laser line to see if first set of panels will still fit, and continue to 2 panels on each side (within blue lines)

Mark front edge and backedge only on the 4 joists. If all fits, good, otherwise try to adjust the lines away from exact 8’ to allow fit

If all fits, mark along first laser line - 5 marks, every 4’

If corrections were made on subsequent lines - mark those lines, 5 markes

Everything gets trim, so as long as panels fit, gaps are ok if panels are too large, cut them down or install extra 1x or 2x next to joists

Start installing on back wall, between blue lines

Nail exactly mid of joist - to identify future nailing locations. 6” at edges, 12” in field.
Short edge panels are cut - cut them last.

Garage Cutout: 3.5” light cutout for top light:

Installation Garage:

Mark all joist locations on vertical walls - why
Mark for panel fit.

Mark 4 corners with string
Mark along string to define edges
Measure 4’ from each side to ensure the blue lines still work
Measure once more to make sure panels at the back of garage will fit

Mark all joist locations on perimeter wall to facilitate nailoff (joist locations will be hidden)
Start installing in back of garage towards house

Bathroom panel

Bathroom Panel (from groove side):

Back wall of house

2.5’

4.5’

Garage Panel (from groove side):

(7th bay from back, first available bay for light switch). 4 wire: light, garage door opener + signal (14-2-2 wire), gfci outlet (20A)

8”

2’

Front

Start installing here

Start marking here

Front of House - panels are 37” wide (11” shorter)

Back of House - back panels are 48”, but edge ae shortened (due to wall)

Adjust up to ¾”

Leading edge

Trailing edge

Installation direction

90.5”

Garage door opener mid is 112” from front wall - just about right above light

69” from back wall

2nd row from back (groove side)

20” - 68” f. back wall

4’5” (same though not by joist)

90.5”

1’ over

½” hole, thread wire

Back

Door

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Ceiling Beadboard + Insulation

Notes

No insulation in garage, insulation in main house
House ceiling - panels are transverse because of 24” spacing

1x2 structural trim used on long edges, with holes pre-drilled to suck in plywood
Painted at end
Short ends get decorative trim

Insulation - need 11 packages of insulation for 22 bays. 23 lb each.

Each package does 64 feet or 2 bays
Workflow - split packages, load 11 onto back of longbed pickup
Stand on bed, board on top of bed top. Throw over the terrace.
Set up 2 scaffold, one to hold material, other to work on. Install 8 in one load. install 2 at a time, staple edge. Screw rope to short wall, pull yourself along floor

Expected: 3 minutes per batt. 44 batts. Learning: fluffing takes longer than installing. 88 4’ batt limit is 90 min install, 90 min fluff. Can we do integrated fluffing?

No edge support. 1x2 Trim is used.

Edge support ok

Deco trim

Structural trim with 2 rows of 1-⅝” deck screws

Edge Trim

No trim

Structural Trim with 2 rows of 1-⅝” deck screws

vertical

Lying Down

4’9”

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Beadboard Ergonomics 5

Notes

Under stairs there is drywall and beadboard
We route ¾” through beadboard to close fire pathway by inserting drywall into routed gap

Make sure that upon screwing in drywall, we draw a line where routing will happen and stay 6” away to each side of the line

Line is too difficult to route. Only feasible way would be to slit with circular saw. Ideally, a 2 blade circular saw. Otherwise, it’s a small detail.

And- it would be impossible to insert the drywall in there, unless beadboard is taken off the sides! Drywall would be ¾” wider than available space

Beadboard

Drywall

Routed ¾” gap

Keep drywall screws away from line

Toekick saw would be relevant here

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Beadboard Ergonomics 4

Notes

Cutouts for electrical boxes and windows: use a plunge router with plunge-poke bit

Use pilot panel bit
Single flute works best?
Use ½” shank for more power and not to break the bit

This part rides against window frame

For windows, mount plywood, then cut out window with beadboard in place. Typical distance from edge is 6”
For electrical boxes, use a jig:
For beadboard cutout under stairs

Use a flush trim router bit.

Bearing is at the bottom, not top.

3” throat clamp

This part cuts

The point penetrates. Do it fast to smoke less.

½” shank

¼”x1/4” is common

What about ½ shank ⅜ bit?

½”x1/4”

⅜”x3/8”

Clamp djustable to panel width

Clamp for adjusting location in bays

V2: Interior cutout with panel pilot. Interchangeable template - circles, squares.

Plunge and router

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Beadboard Ergonomics 3B

Beadboard Jig - for Auto Measure and Straight Edge

Notes

Use simple tape measure:

Hold on to the tapes, align groove
Hold with knee on bottom, use right hand to extend top tape, left hand to lock….Sounds like too many hands needed.

Use telescoping stick. Not easy to mount
Magnetic pickup tool - sticks on to the metal rail? Test it.
Jig must be bidirectional, in cased of installing beadboard right or leftwards? Don’t think so - we always overlap (not try to underlap) - in which case the jig is designed for the last module, and if cut is at beginning of wall, we have no groove to match to - so the jig should just be aligned against the edge

96”

48”

8’

48”

6’

Steel guide rail facing right so

4”

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Beadboard Ergonomics 3A

Effectiveness Considerations - Whole Chain

Notes

Number of probe points:

2 points define a line with angle.
1 point defines one line assuming angle (parallel to edge)

Minimalist jig, width of ply wood only - will not work for more than ¾” slant over 8’, which may not catch poor tolerance

Advantage - you simply transfer the width - it’s a self-measuring straight edge

No measure-mark-snap line

Disadvantage - will not work for slant greater than ¾”

Recommended jig - 2 probe points captures existing slant

Assessment: ok for +/- 1” at known fixed length - but not relevant in general to partially-cut panels.
Ideal process:

Fit strip of beadboard perfectly to last one
Telescope-measure the distance

Ideally lock, or it’s tight so it doesn’t shift

Move to cutting area, use other side as straight edge

Use a telescoping pointer! Or tape measure

96”

On back of plywood with alignment edge on rhs, beadboard back facing up, beadboard start edge (convention) on the right

Minimalist jig

96”

48”

Angle Jig

96”

48”

1-6’ Jig

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Beadboard Ergonomics 3 - Beadboard Cutting Jig

Effectiveness Considerations - Whole Chain

Corner measuring jig - immediate allowance for corners to +/- 3/16” width accuracy

Procedure:

Uses contour gauge
Procedure: use jig with contour gauge extended, push against the wall until grooves line up exactly at bottom, mid, top. Lock the contour gauges
Move to upside-down sheet of beadboard
Cut (straight edge is set on the jig)

Expected time savings vs tape measure with plywood cutting table set up right next to wall:

If single measurement, little savings

Measure + mark 3x, snap chalk - 47 seconds,

If 3 measurements and automatic straightedge for cutting, then we move to time savings from one measurement straight to cut

18 seconds to measure and put down template, ready to cut. Cut in 18 seconds. 36 seconds for entire operation
Time savings of about 2x by professionals.

Lockable Contour gauge in mid position. Allows for about 1” in and out adjustment

42.5”

96”

Cutting straight edge with rail for saw blade offset

Use a cutting table with one edge for automatic alignment of beadboard

Beadboard for cutting (back side facing up)

styrofoam

Locate bottom, locate top, then lock 3 gauges in corred

Jig On back of plywood with alignment edge on rhs, beadboard back facing up, beadboard start edge (convention) on the right

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Beadboard Ergonomics 2

framing

Effectiveness Considerations - Whole Chain

Alignment - entire house is set up for installation

Measure 13.125”, run string lines on every wall.

Measure this to be level absolutely, not with respect to floor or ceiling. Because we trim the floor and ceiling

Install the top 1x2 trim

Installation - 2 ways include either using trim or dolly set at 13.125” height

Workflow - beadboard is done after all walls are framed. Thus, 1x2 utility channel top is the next step after interior walls.

Some beadboard is installed prior to interior framing: behind 2 tubs

Sit beadboard on the trim
Where there is no trim, sit beadboard on dolly
If dolly can’t be used, mount a temporary board (2x4). This occurs at:

Landing - landing is in the way
Upstair stairway - stairway is in the way

2x4 blocking

1x2

trim

casing

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Beadboard Ergonomics

Effectiveness Considerations - Whole Chain

Bulk materials transport - ideally delivered from store to site. Yard item cannot be pulled. Fork + truck. Ultimate: 3D printed on site via conveyor 3D printer, with vacuum materials feed to 2nd floor.
Unload at site - Park closest to door. Space in front must be clear. Second floor - stand up a pile of sheets vertical on truck bed rim, which is already at 6’. Lift from terrace.
Panel Carrying - carrier, top-lift clamp, belt, panel cart, string on 2 corners, self-made hook, 6.5x15 self-made carrier, forearm carrying straps (no wrists), plywood dolly, furniture moving straps, drywall jack. Drywall jack min height may not be 13” low.

Leg Lifter: furniture moving strap worn by 1 person, with hook on bottom, lift with legs lifts panel, no hands.
Adjustable height dolly: if floor is level, slide the beadboard right next to the wall into the correct height

self-made carrier

Rope on 2 corners, but too much bending

dolly

Drywall jack

Convertible Hand Truck

Forearm Forklift

Furniture Moving Straps

Backpack straps

Shoulder dolly

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Plumbing Integration: Assemblies 1-4

Locate key locations in modules by keypoint (x,y) coordinates typically referenced at center lines of the pipe or object
After assemblies are made, verify aperture locations

PEX assemblies

Water inlet
PEX fittings - determine ends of pipe

Caps

PEX outlet holders
PEX dropears
PEX clamps (on wall) and holders (out of wall) - determine hold points

Wood blocks can also be used

Create Plumbing Assemblies - CAD

Define their boundaries clearly: scope and location
Pipe - length and type callouts
Pipe strap
Caps if needed
Glued or unglued

Module 1 (concept only - actual in numbered Subassemblies)

Shower 1
Main Stack - including 2 horizontal 3” drains
Toilet
Shower 2

Turn the trap to >90 deg and avoid the turn below which is problematic as 1.5” thru hole location can be tricky

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Plumbing Assy 6: Double Sink (Bathroom 2)

Notes:

Minimum stub comes out of wall
Street elbow to double sanitary tee for minimum vertical height
33” drain separation required
Height of outlet is 8”, but that will be more like 9” due to rise
Easy adjustment with flexible traps allows for complete pre-build from street elbow on: about 2” tolerance in each direction.

3”-1.5”

1-½” out, 1-½” or 1-¼” in

33” critical dimension

2-1.5”

2”

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Plumbing Assy 6: Sink Plumbing Design for Tolerancing

Kitchen

+/- 2” by insertion depth?

+/- 3” by bellows up + down?

+/- 2” sideways?

+/- 1” by insertion depth?

+/- 2” by insertion depth?

8” height

6” height?

6” stub?

+/- 4” sideways by rotation?

Design Requirement:

Keeps max flexibility so it can be built at rough-in and allow 10” of play around a circle.
Play total:

+/- 8” sideways
+/-6” up and down

Design for 8” minimum under sink outlet for tailpiece + extension - ie, the drop to the horizontal

3”-1.5”

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Plumbing Assy 6: Sinks Dimensional Study

3”-1.5”

1-½” out, 1-½” or 1-¼” in

6”

33”

Mcmaster has 5” x1.5” file + 1.25” tailpiece

Download file

Location not correct

Location of flexible trap if trap rotated 180 deg

Vertical expansion requirement for flexible tailpiece - 4”. Easy extension. Thus, Tee should be right above elbow, no higher.

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Plumbing Assy 6: Sinks With Street Elbow

Kitchen

Bath 1

Notes:

Kitchen, Bath 1, Bath 2 are similar
Kitchen drains are 1.5”, bath are 1.25”
Standard cabinets are 24”, countertops are 25”, and sinks are 22” deep
Our drain is about 10” or 15” from back wall
If rough plumbing stub is 2” from wall, elbow at 4” away, and slip joint at 6” - then p-trap (0-9 added length if inserted 3”, 0 if trap is turned back) gets us to 6”-15” away from wall - not counting flexibility of the p-trap bellows .

Perfect flexibility to allow pre-fabrication of entire assembly.

2” stubbed fro from wall, center of vertical at about 4” from wall. Stub as short as possible to keep space free under sink, keeping as close to the center of sink as possible while allowing for up to 6” sideways tolerance.

1-½” out, 1-½” or 1-¼” in

2-2-1.5”

1.5”

1-½” out, 1-½” or 1-¼” in

2-2-1.5”

2”

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Plumbing Assy 6: Sinks

Kitchen

Bath 1

Bath 2

Notes:

Kitchen, Bath 1, Bath 2 are similar
Kitchen drains are 1.5”, bath are 1.25”
Standard cabinets are 24”, countertops are 25”, and sinks are 22” deep
Our drain is about 10” or 15” from back wall
If rough plumbing stub is 5” from wall, elbow at 7” away, and slip joint at 9” - then p-trap (0-9 added length if inserted 3”, 0 if trap is turned back) gets us to 9”-18” away from wall - not counting flexibility of the p-trap bellows .

Perfect flexibility to allow pre-fabrication of entire assembly.

3”-1.5”

5” stubbed fro from wall, center of vertical at about 6” from wall. Stub as short as possible to keep space free under sink, keeping as close to the center of sink as possible while allowing for up to 6” sideways tolerance.

1-½” out, 1-½” or 1-¼” in

2-2-1.5”

1.5”

1-½” out, 1-½” or 1-¼” in

1.5”

Pipe 6” from wall.

Drain about 10” from wall.

6”

33”

Drain about 15” from wall.

7” long?

8”

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Plumbing Assy 6: Sinks

Oversize bath sink to allow non-use of AAV if AHJ allows

Oversize kitchen sink to allow non-use of AAV if AHJ allows

33” CAD center to center?

Notes:

To be safe, make accommodation for AAV in tub + 3 sinks, as we have risers at each bc our utility channel is low

Instructions:

Install F

2”

3” pipe

length?

3”-1.5”

3”-2”

>11.25”

3-3-2”

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Plumbing Assy 4: Toilet

Make sure to not gotham out on subfloor

Instructions:

Install Flange, but add ¼” spacer under flange for flooring.
Dry fit the assembly to fit to the main double fixture tee
Once fit is verified, glue the closet elbow-pipe-heel elbow, and glue to Module 1 PVC

7.3” vertical?

6.6” horiz?

5.06” depth - ream 5” hole slightly

12”. Verify.

This should be

standard + exact

6.6” high

>11.25”

7.3”?

3”

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Plumbing Assy 4: Toilet Plumbing Tech Drawing

Nibco 4807-CL

Bullshit CAD available.

3” elbow with 2” Heel

Nibco 4881-LH

(CAD downloadable by clicking on CAD)

3” elbow with 2” Heel

Nibco 48 07-LT

(CAD downloadable by clicking on CAD)

CAD

6.75 measured

4.8+4.5+5.6=14.9” drop verified from measured dimensions

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Plumbing Assy 4: Toilet Plumbing Tech Drawing

About 2” space. Should be 4” via CAD - resolution is hub-to-hub here which appears 2” longer. 4” space predicted (11.25”-7.3”)

? SH2

? SH4

? SH2

? SH4

12.5 to wall framing + 3.5” (wall framing) +2.5” (mid cavity). Should be 18.5

18.5”

Quiz: is this misaligned? Why?

Quiz: is this misaligned?

Thin part of slot should be horizontal. See how to align bolts.

This toiletdrop determines digital location of double fixture tee of Module I1.

Bullshit CAD available.

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Plumbing Assy 13: Second Floor Sink Drainage

Plumbing Assy 7-8: Main Vent and Termination

Instructions:

Inadf

2”

2” log elbow

3”

2”

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Plumbing Assy 9: Washer

2”

2-2-1.5”

1.5-1”

1”

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Interior Module 1 Tolerancing and Installation

Adjustable 1” back and forth - cut 5” hole in cavity so that toilet drain assembly can pivot slightly around toilet flange

Build Procedure:

Cut 5” hole for toilet and for 2nd sink drain
Insert and mount toilet flange only
Install 2nd floor toilet assembly, connecting to toilet flange and to Wall I1 PVC assembly.

2nd Floor Toilet Assembly

Hang main vent on PVC Strap (green). Red is boundary of PVC assembly.

Assembly simply drops the tee into the stub from the foundation

All holes oversized to 5” for ease of fit

Pipe ends exactly at module - maybe

End at trap. +/- 1.5”

End with double fixture tee at top of module I1. +/- ¾”

End at tee at z=0 of Module i1.

Stub sticks out 3.5”

End at x=49.5 of module (1.5” slip into 3” pipe)

+/- 1.25”

Pipe should be half way up for mid point - or 6.5” in the cavity which is 13” from floor. But second floor?

Only outstanding question is this height so we don’t have to re-cut plumbing after rough-in

Procedure: measure exact stub height.

Ideally 4 OD Flange + 4” ID closet flange

8” +/- 2”

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Plumbing Assy 2+3: Main Assy

24” max drop to trap

Rotate here to penetrate

1.5” from joist

Socket depths:

3”- 1.5”; 2” - ;1.5” -

Instructions:

Use a stick of 10’ and connect to double fixture wye
Dry fit the trap with minimum

Glue to purple only. first part of neck only. Reverse the street part to make connection to 2nd floor easier?

22-⅝” in CAD

22-⅝”

8”

Pipe should stick out _____”. Verify for 8” height of main drain

To connect 1st + 2nd Floor - use vertical pipe + half-trap assy

Cut exactly to right edge of module. 48-9-22.5+1.5=17”

Cut exactly to right edge of module. 48-4.5-22.5+1.5=22.5”

+17” pipe?

+22.5” pipe?

Make this 8” so we clear the floor of cabinets easily

3.375”

Vertical =9’3” + 12”- toiletdrop - 9.1“ - 8” - 3-⅜” + 1.5” + 1.5” =? For 18” toiletdrop - 87.5” for pipe length

3-1.5”

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Plumbing Assy 1: Shower 1

Instructions:

Clean out drain pit, and expose toilet flange
Dry fit 4 components. Cut the 1.5” vertical pipe to main drain at the correct height.
Attach to tub

Secure drain, with gasket on top of tub, screwing in with pliers from top of tub
Secure overflow and its cap, with the 2 screws

Once attached to tub, dry fit to the vertical pipe

Concept only

Simplified by 2 parts

Break out the toilet flange first. 23” right + 19” back from main drain.

1.5” to main drain

Spare coupler + pipe if need to extend

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Plumbing Subassembly 11: Shower 2

11. Floor 2 shower

Verify fit to Tub Drain Kit when shopping

Washer goes on top of tub

Instructions:

Drill 4” hole thru floor for PVC elbow
PVC glue all, with elbow going straight down
Insert 2 slip joints
Attach to tub

Drain Washer goes on top of tub
Overflow gasket goes outside of tub

Reference only, not as built.

3.56”x3.56”

5.8”x5.8”

not future builds

Rework:

https://www.amazon.com/Westbrass-593144-01-Tubular-Tip-Toe-Polished/dp/B0067ONGDG/

https://www.lowes.com/pd/WESTBRASS-Tip-Toe-Sch-40-PVC-Bath-Waste-with-One-Hole-Elbow-in-Polished-Brass/1002432388

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Westbrass-1-1-2-in-Tip-Toe-Schedule-40-ABS-Bath-Waste-with-Two-Hole-Elbow-in-Polished-Brass-D4931-01/310208464

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PVC Shopping Cheatsheets 1

Kitchen

Bath 1

Vanity 2

Kitchen

Toilet

4” clamp

1-½” out, 1-½” or 1-¼” in

2-2-1.5”

1.5”

2”

2-2-1.5”

2”

1.5”

2-1.5”

2”

Cap

4-3” closet

2”

3” pipe

length?

3-3-2”

3-2”

3” long el

2”

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2ND Fl Sink

Main vent

Washer

Main Stack

Showers

PVC Shopping Cheatsheets 1

2”

2” log elbow

2”

3”

2”

2-2-1.5”

1.5-1”

1”

3-1.5”

3”

1.5”

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Vanity 2 Rough

Washer

Main Stack

Shower 2

See as-built.

Vanity 2

Bath Sink 1 Finish

Toilet

Kitchen Finish

Kitchen

Rough

Main vent

2”

2” log elbow

2”

2-2-1.5”

1.5-1”

1”

3-1.5”

3”

1.5”

2-1.5”

2”

Cap

2”

2-2-1.5”

2”

1.5”

Cap

4-3” closet

3” long el

1-½” out, 1-½” or 1-¼” in

2-2-1.5”

1.5”

2”

Cap

2”

3” pipe

3-3-2”

3-2”

3”

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Water Source - System in 1 hr - Module i1

Minitank heater needs one.
Based on Water Supply vBOM:

Build:

Cut and ream PEX stubs,

[4] 1” - __________3.5”
[2] 3/4” - __________3”
[1] 1/2” - ___________2.5”

Connect 7 fittings
Connect tank adapter to tank in vise with thread tape

To heater

1” Pressure

Reducer

$74

$14

1”x3/4”

3/4”

$12

1” Check Valve

$18

Sharkbite hose bib

2nd floor

Cold supply

$3.5

1”x3/4”

3/4”x1/2”

$19

1/2”-3/4”

3/4”

$40

1” Check Valve

$11

1” gap

To heater

8” diameter

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Expansion Tank - System in 1 hr - Module i1

Minitank heater needs one.
Based on Water Supply vBOM:

Build Instructions:

Cut and ream PEX stubs,

[4] 1” - __________3.5”
[2] 3/4” - __________3”
[1] 1/2” - ___________2.5”

Connect 7 fittings (no tank adapter)
Connect tank adapter to tank in vise with thread tape

1” Pressure

Reducer

$74

$14

1”x3/4”

3/4”

$12

1” Check Valve

$18

hose

2nd floor

Cold supply

$3.5

1”x3/4”

3/4”x1/2”

$19

1/2”-3/4”

3/4”

$40

1” Check Valve

$11

1” gap

To heater

8” diameter