HOW TO MAKE A COSTUME FROM SCRATCH

Lena Volkova (Lokelicious Cosplay)

**Before We Begin**

• This class is not a sewing or fabrication class
• Will discuss methods and resources for costuming basics
• This class was designed for new/beginner costumers

WHO LOVES TO DRESS UP FOR HALLOWEEN?

Or cosplay at conventions?

Help! ��I want to make a costume!!!

Who Am I?

• Lena Volkova� IG: @Lokelicious� FB: www.facebook.com/lokesanna� TikTok: @lena.volkova
• Cosplayer, Fabricator, Educator
• Cosplayer >10yrs�Costumer >20yrs
• Have won a variety of awards including Best Master Category, Fan Favorite, and Best in Show
• Teach visual art and theater classes at the Workhouse Arts Center Summer Camps, and scare actress at the annual Workhouse Arts Center Haunt
• Run and teach a variety of costuming and modeling related workshops for DC Cosplay Photo Shoots

Photography: Marlon David Photography

Everyone Starts Somewhere

2010

2021

Photography: Brad Behles Photography

Photography: WoW Insider

Definitions

• Assemble = when someone puts something together
• Build = when someone uses raw materials to create something
• Fabrication = same as build, usually refers to props
• Sew = when someone uses fabric to create a garment, a form of “building”
• Make = usually refers to when someone builds something, but can also mean assemble
• Commission = paying an artisan to custom build something for you
• Purchase = paying a retailer for a finished good or product

Costume Design Process

Creating a costume for yourself is very similar to the ones professional costumers use�

1. Pick a character or concept
2. Analysis of character or concept
3. Design / Research
4. Sketches or Inspiration Photos �(Pinterest Boards?)
5. Production

Drawing Inspiration

Costume Production

Considerations & Limitations

Motivation/Competency Curve

Pulled Costumes

Pros

• Lowest barrier of entry
• Cheapest way to assemble a costume
• Can assemble a costume quickly
• More room for personal interpretation and flexibility
• Existing pieces can be modified

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Cons

• Limited to what you already have
• Might not want to potentially damage articles of your clothing for a costume

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Photography: Jay’s Fine Art Photography

Photography: Brad Behles Photography

Photography: Two Ravens Photography

Photography: Brad Behles Photography

Photography: Angela Melito

Photography: Don Holmes

Renting Costumes

Pros

• Low barrier of entry
• Can assemble a costume quickly
• Cost effective
• Will not take up closet space

Cons

• Limited to rental selection and sizing
• General / standard sizing
• Potential issues with wear and tear
• Cannot customize costume or pieces
• Temporary possession of costume
• Repair, cleaning, or replacement costs
• Rental places aren’t always open to the public

Shopped Costumes

Pros

• Easiest* way to assemble a costume
• Can assemble a costume quickly
• Can be used as base for more elaborate pieces
• Can be affordable

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Cons

• Limited to retail availability and selection
• May have to purchase each item separately
• Potential issues with quality
• Limited by budget
• Questionable sustainability and ethics

Photography: Brad Behles Photography

Photography: Brad Behles Photography

Photography: Two Ravens Photography

Photography: Alicyn Drew Photography

Photography: David Wardwick

Photography: Samantha Marshall

Places to Source Your Costume Pieces

Sourcing Considerations

Retail Stores

Pros

• Instant gratification
• Not limited to one store for shopping needs
• Budget flexibility
• Can order costume online
• Zero sewing/crafting skills required

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Cons

• Might not be the most cost effective
• Costume items might not be available for purchase
• Finding items might take as long as actually making them yourself
• Potentially the most wasteful/least sustainable method of acquiring a costume

Thrift / Consignment Stores & Garage Sales

Pros

• Inexpensive way to acquire purchased items
• Most environmentally sustainable
• Possibility of unusual finds

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Cons

• Limited selection and sizing
• Unknown stock and/or quantities of an item
• Alterations or modifications might be necessary
• Potentially the most time consuming
• You have to physically go to these stores

Costume Manufacturing Sites / Retailers

Pros

• Can purchase a good quality costume in its entirety
• Large variety of costumes
• Budget is variable
• Least amount of effort
• “Screen accurate”
• Most likely to find these costumes in trade groups/sites
• Can order costumes online

Cons

• Potential ethical considerations
• Time to receive costume might exceed 2+ months
• “Not screen accurate”
• Possible quality control issues
• Sizing might not be standard

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Commissions

Pros

• Custom-made item for you
• Don’t have to make it yourself
• High-quality handmade item
• Can request commissions online

Cons

• You’re at the mercy of whoever is making the item
• Commission costs include labor hours
• Quality control can vary

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Constructed Costumes

Pros

• 100% custom-made item
• Unlimited possibilities with character design
• Opportunities to learn a new skill or refine skills
• Large community of artisans that can provide support
• Something you can be proud of

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Cons

• Highest barrier of entry
• Cost varies
• Certain skills may be required to build costume pieces
• Need materials and tools
• Limited by time constraints

Photography: Brad Behles Photography

Photography: Brad Behles Photography

Photography: Cyber Zombie Studios

Photography: Dan Arango Photography

Photography: Brad Behles Photography

Photography: Brad Behles Photography

Where to Source Your Costume Materials

Costume Building Process

Costume Build Process – Design & Planning

• Design
• Work Breakdown Structure�& Project Plan

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Costume Build Process – Materials & Decisions

• Material Inventory & Acquisition
• Decision Point�(Outsource vs. Purchase vs. Build)

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Costume Build Process – Patterning & Drafts

• Patterning
• Drafting and Mockups

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Costume Build Process – Building, Refinement, & Details

• Initial Build & Refinement
• Initial Fitting
• Detail Work

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Costume Build Process – Fittings, Final Touches, & Accessories et. al…, Costests

• Final Fitting
• Finishing Touches
• Accessories, Props, Wigs, & Makeup
• “Costest”
• Wearing the Costume for the First Time!!!

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SO WHICH METHOD OF COSTUMING IS BETTER?

Photography: Alicyn Drew Photography

Photography: Rimawi Media

So Which Method of Costuming is Better?

• It honestly does NOT matter
• Everyone has their preferences / reasons
• The best costumes are the ones that YOU enjoy
• What matters is that YOU are having FUN!

I WANT TO LEARN HOW TO BUILD. WHAT RESOURCES ARE THERE?

Where Can I Learn More?

I WANT PICTURES OF ME IN MY COSTUMES! HOW DO I DO THAT?

IG: @dccosplayphoto�FB: @dccosplayphotoshoot

Email: cosplaydcadm@gmail.com

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Next Monthly Event: 16 October, 2021 �(join FB group for more info!)

Let’s Practice!

• Scenario #1

You’re going to a Quentin Tarantino-themed Halloween party next week and you have a very limited budget. Spirit Halloween doesn’t have anything that would be helpful for your costume, but you do have some pieces in your closet that could work and H&M is having a sale on dress clothes.

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• What character would you pick?
• How would you assemble the costume?

Let’s Practice!

• Scenario #2
• The newest Batman movie just came out and you absolutely want a batsuit. You do not care how much it costs, but you’re going to get a screen accurate batsuit. You’re even willing to wait however long it may take for the perfect replica.

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• How would you assemble this costume?

Let’s Practice!

• Scenario #3
• The latest season of Bridgerton just came out on Netflix. You’ve been studying Regency-era fashions lately and you fell in love with one of the gowns featured in the show. You have a bit of extra money for new materials if needed and you have a bit of time.

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• How would you assemble this costume?

Let’s Practice!

• Scenario #4
• You’ve been asked to participate in a Star Wars themed photoshoot. You have a number of replica lightsabers, and some pieces that can be thrown together that sort of looks like a Jedi….? You’re not entirely satisfied with what you have, but you do have some materials, a little bit of time, and some money for fabric. You also have a friend that has a Darth Vader costume that’s too big for you and kind of smells, but they’re willing to let you borrow it for the shoot. Another friend is willing to loan you their Party City Kylo Ren for the shoot for a case of beer.

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• How would you assemble this costume?

To Summarize

• Costuming is putting together a particular set of clothes in order to portray a character or convey an idea
• There are many options available to assemble costumes
• You don’t have to build your costumes if you don’t want to
• Supportive communities exist and are great sources of knowledge
• Can be a very rewarding creative outlet and hobby
• We do this because it’s fun!

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ANY QUESTIONS?