Influence of Geography on Indian clothing

BINDIA

ASST. PROFESSOR �FASHION DESIGNING

Geographical regions of India

• The geography of India is best understood with analogies. First, surrounded in the south by the Arabian and Bay of Bengal seas, east by mountainous Burmese jungles, north by the Himalayas and northwest by the Thar desert and Hindu Kush mountains, the Indian subcontinent is practically an island. A self-sufficient island that is well-endowed with natural resources, fertile soil and generous rainfall.
• It is an island with unique plateau peninsula characteristics. The subcontinent is essentially shaped like a floating crocodile, with its head facing Central Asia, an elongated torso and tail pointing to the Indian Ocean, arms extending into East and West Asia and lumpy horizontal scales declining into the sea. The peninsula section of the land has an average elevation of 300-1800 metres and is surrounded by green lowlands that extends to the seas and the Indo-Gangetic plains.
• On the surface, India appears to possess the geographic logic of a uniform civilization like China. In reality, however, India’s geography is the root of its unparalleled diversity of cultures, languages and religions and general lack of centralization, polity and unity (the Indian nation is a relatively modern concept). This is perhaps best illustrated by the contrast with China, which, in its equally long history, has leaned towards a more homogeneous culture and centralized polity.

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• The geography of India did not provide for a “central plain” that massive populations could gravitate towards, amass and flourish. Such a fertile heartland could serve as a melting pot to homogenize diverse identities and cultures into a common consciousness. The Chinese Central Plains, located east-ward in the “heart of the chicken” (shape of China) and served by major rivers (Yellow, Yangtze, Wei, Han, Huai), was the necessary heartland for integration and assimilation. The arable fields of the land bred the majority Han Chinese and provided a strategic capital for the Chinese nation. The closest to India has is the Indo-Gangetic plains, which is an inverted V-shaped lowland that runs from today's Bangladesh (in the east) across the foot of Himalayas to modern day Pakistan (in the west). This was the birthplace of the Indus valley civilizations (Mohenjo Daro, Harappans) and later on, the Ganges civilizations to the east (after Indus river dried up). The Indo-Gangetic belt and its contemporary Jerusalem-Arabia corridor became the twin religious capitals of the world, giving birth to Indian religions (Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism, Sikhism) and Abrahamic religions (Judaism, Christianity, Islam) over the course of two millenniums. While this was an economic and cultural hotbed, it was not central (i.e., too isolated from the rest of India peninsula) and not "circular" enough to be a base for national integration.

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• Rivers were the highways of ancient times, either integrating or dividing societies depending on its characteristics and direction. The east-west bound rivers of the plateau-peninsula India, unfortunately, played a heavy hand in fragmenting Indians. Furthermore, throughout political history, “vertical” territories are seldom natural countries because stark weather disparity creates remarkable cultural differences between northerners and southerners. The “vertical island” of India was, hence, partitioned many times over throughout the peninsula by divisive mountain ranges and river flows. This “deck of cards” dealt to India could, at least partially, explain the diversity of languages (1,635), religions and cultures, plurality of society and politics and weakness of national identity – all persisting till modern times. Therefore, India more closely resemblances continental Europe, both in pre-Roman and medieval times (fragmented states) and the modern age (forged unitary states of EU and Republic of India) than China.

India is criss-crossed by key East-West heading mountains and rivers. The Vindhya and Satpuras mountain range geographically separates the Northern India from the South as it runs across central India. While the Vindhya and Satpuras did not prevent cultural percolation over the centuries, it was a formidable barrier against cross invasions, political unions, gene pool mixture and national integration between the north (Aryan) and the south (Dravidian). The northwest was frequently invaded through the Khyber mountain pass in Hindu Kush mountains (in modern day Afghanistan), while the buffer of the northern lands and natural hilly obstacles shielded the south from outside invaders. The north often had political unions (perhaps because of the plains) while the south was usually fragmented with smaller kingdoms and culturally distinct.

Indian Clothing

• In order to achieve a wide range of adaptability by buffering the effects of variations of the surroundings, man adopts and modifies the available choices of the pattern of clothing. In India, climatic variations are wide between different parts of the country and, obviously, the patterns of clothing or garments are also different. The eastern, southern and western zone climates are similar and can be recognised as hot-humid tropics. Garments with a loose covering of the body are the special features of these zones and this type of garment is essential to obtain a maximum convective and evaporative heat loss with the available air movement across the clothing worn. Northern zone people usually wear a long type of dress, such as the “pyjama” or “salwar” and long “kurta”. Some form of head cover, which is especially common in the north zone, is possibly meant for protecting the head from solar radiation, while working outdoors. Obviously, the people of the hilly region wear long dress which covers the ankles, wrists and neck, meant only for protection against cold. Thus, the concept of textile development influences the clothing fashion, and the basic designs and patterns of clothing in different parts of the country could possibly be due to adaptation for the environmental variation.

East

THE CLOTHING OF ASSAM IS AS VIBRANT AS IT IS VARIED. WITH SEVERAL DIFFERENT TRIBES HAILING FROM THE REGION, THERE IS A RANGE OF DIFFERENT ETHNIC CLOTHING WORN IN ASSAM. MOST OF THESE ARE VARIATIONS OF THE MEKHELA, WORN BY WOMEN, AND DHOTI, WORN BY MEN. THE WOMEN OF THE BODO TRIBE WEAR MEKHELA PAIRED WITH A CHADAR WHILE WOMEN OF THE THAI PHAKE TRIBE WEAR A STRIPED GIRDLE CALLED CHIARCHIN. MANY OF THE TRADITIONAL WEAR IN THE STATE IS MADE OF THE VARIOUS KINDS OF SILK EXCLUSIVELY PRODUCED IN THE REGION. SILKS SUCH AS PAAT, ERI AND GOLDEN MUGA ARE USED TO MAKE SAREES AND MEKHELAS.

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Assam

Bengal

• The women of Bengal wear Sarees of various materials such as silk, Taant Cotton, chiffon, etc. The most popular modern draping method of Sarees originates from the British Capital of Kolkata. White Saree with red border is worn during many religious festivals and are made of cotton. The men of Kolkata wear kurta with Pajama or Dhoti. They are usually made of silk or cotton.

North India

• The most common of the traditional clothing of Uttar Pradesh is Salwar Kameez worn by the women. The distinctive style of bottom wear called Churidar originates from this state. They also wear Sarees with various embellishments. The men of Uttar Pradesh wear Kurta and Pajama along with headgear such as Topi and Pagri. Sherwanis are worn by men during festivals and special occasions.

Uttar Pradesh

Jammu & Kashmir

• Being a state that is so varied in communities and religion, Jammu and Kashmir is home to a variety of different fashion. Women in Jammu and Kashmir wear Pherans, which have different variations for Hindu and Muslim women. While the Hindu version has narrow sleeves, the Muslim version is characterized by its broad knee length sleeves. Hindu women pair these with a headdress called Taranga while Muslim women either wear Abaya or a headdress exclusive to the state that is tied around the head and pinned. The men wear Pherans meant for them with Turbans. The traditional clothing of Jammu and Kashmir is known for featuring bright contrasting colour combinations.

Punjab

• Ensembles such as Salwar Kameez, ones featuring Churidar, are worn by the women of Punjab as well. Patiala Salwars originate from this state. The styles of this state feature scarves, or Dupattas, that contrast the color of the rest of the ensemble. The women of the state also wear Ghagra while the men wear Kurta Pajamas that sometimes feature the Churidar style as well. They also wear headgear such as Pagri. Punjab is known for its distinctive style of shoes, Juti, that has been adopted by the rest of the country for formal occasions.

West India

• Women in Gujarat traditionally wear Chaniyo and Choli, wearing embellished and embroidered Ghagra Choli and Lehenga Choli for religious festivals such as Navratri. Dupattas are worn as veils and are called Odhni. The men wear Churidar Pajamas and Kurta, paired with vibrant turbans for formal as well as casual occasions.

Gujrat

Maharashtra

• Sarees, paired with Choli, are the ethnic clothing of women in Maharashtra. The men of the state wear Dhoti, paired with Pheta. Their headdresses are made of cotton, silk or wool and are called Pagadi.

South India

• The traditional clothing of the women of Karnataka is Saree. Karnataka, being the most popular supplier of silk in the country, produces Sarees made of Kanchipuram, as well as those made of a variety of brocades and chiffons. The men of the state wear Lungi paired with Angavastram.

Karnataka

Kerala

• The most well known of Kerala’s ethnic wear is the Mundu. Worn mostly by men, the Mundu is the state’s version of a Lungi. There are both formal and casual versions of this clothing as well various versions for women. These often have work done on them, with wedding wear having the most intricate crystal embellishments. Sarees are also worn by women in this state and are often made of Kanchipuram Silk or Benarasi Silk and embellished in a similar way.