1 of 65

Wilderness Survival�Merit Badge

Merit Badge Counselor: Tara Jordan

Scoutmaster Troop 742, North Charleston, SC

diorganized@gmail.com

843-693-6542

2 of 65

Requirements

3 of 65

Requirement 1

Do the following:

Explain to your counselor the hazards you are most likely to encounter while participating in wilderness survival activities, and what you should do to anticipate, help prevent, mitigate, or lessen these hazards.
Show that you know first aid for and how to prevent injuries or illnesses that could occur in backcountry settings, including hypothermia, heat reactions, frostbite, dehydration, blisters, insect stings, tick bites, and snakebites.

4 of 65

Requirement 2

From memory, list the seven priorities for survival in a backcountry or wilderness location. Explain the importance of each one with your counselor.

5 of 65

Requirement 3

Discuss ways to avoid panic and maintain a high level of morale when lost, and explain why this is important.

6 of 65

Requirement 4

Describe the steps you would take to survive in the following exposure conditions:

Cold and snowy
Wet
Hot and dry
Windy
At or on the water

7 of 65

Requirement 5

Put together a personal survival kit and explain how each item in it could be useful.

8 of 65

Requirement 6

Using three different methods (other than matches), build and light three fires.

9 of 65

Requirement 7

Do the following:

Show five different ways to attract attention when lost.
Demonstrate how to use a signal mirror.
Describe from memory five ground-to-air signals and tell what they mean.

10 of 65

Requirement 8

Improvise a natural shelter. For the purpose of this demonstration, use techniques that have little negative impact on the environment. Spend a night in your shelter.

11 of 65

Requirement 9

Explain how to protect yourself from insects, reptiles, bears, and other animals of the local region.

12 of 65

Requirement 10

Demonstrate three ways to treat water found in the outdoors to prepare it for drinking.

13 of 65

Requirement 11

Show that you know the proper clothing to wear while in the outdoors during extremely hot and cold weather and during wet conditions.

14 of 65

Requirement 12

Explain why it usually is not wise to eat edible wild plants or wildlife in a wilderness survival situation.

15 of 65

Before You Go

Mitigating Hazards

Emergency Supplies

Clothing

16 of 65

Anticipating and Mitigating Hazards

BSA Trek Safely Plan

Qualified supervision
Keep fit
Plan ahead
Gear up
Communicate clearly and completely
Monitor conditions
Discipline

REQUIREMENT 1A - MITIGATION

1. Qualified Supervision. Whenever planning a trek, make sure your group includes a mature, conscientious adult at least 21 years old who understands the potential risks involved in the trip and can take responsibility for the group’s safety. One additional adult who is at least 18 years old must also accompany the group.

2. Keep Fit. You can train for a trip in the outdoors just like any other athletic event. Start slowly, gradually increasing the duration and intensity of your workouts, to build your physical fitness and stamina. Staying in good shape helps keep you ready for the physical demands of a trek.

3. Plan Ahead. Any trip you plan should match the skill level and fitness of the members of your group. Remember to get permission from the land owner if you plan to cross or use private land, and research the terrain, elevation ranges, trails, wildlife, campsites, typical weather conditions, and environmental issues for the period of the trek. Know where you’re going and what to expect.

4. Gear Up. Before you leave, get topographic maps and current trail maps for the area. Take equipment—including a first-aid kit—and clothing that is appropriate for the weather and is in good condition. Wear proper protection against the sun and biting insects and animals, and remember to adjust clothing layers to match the weather conditions. Drink plenty of water to stay hydrated.

5. Communicate Clearly and Completely. Communication is key to a safe outdoor adventure, and staying in touch with home base is the first step. Complete a trip plan and share the details of your trek with someone back home.

6. Monitor Conditions. The leaders are responsible for making good decisions during the trip, based on their knowledge of the group’s abilities. Keep an eye on weather conditions before and during the trip, and continually monitor your food and water, the group’s morale, and their physical condition. Don’t enter into a dangerous situation.

7. Discipline. Make sure everyone in your group understands the rules and procedures for safe trekking. When participants know the reasons behind the rules, they are much more likely to follow them.

17 of 65

Trip Plan

You should have a written trip plan that includes the following 5 questions:

Where are we going and how are we getting there?
When will we return?
Who is going along?
Why are we going?
What are we taking with us?

18 of 65

19 of 65

Clothing for Hot Weather

Lightweight t-shirt
Lightweight hiking shorts
Lightweight long sleeved shirt
Lightweight hiking pants
Synthetic underwear
Wool socks
Sweater, jacket, or sweatshirt
Brimmed hat
Buff or bandana
Rain gear
Hiking shoes

REQUIREMENT 11

Cotton - Cotton clothing is cool and comfortable. That makes it very good for hot-weather shirts and shorts, especially in dry climates. If cotton becomes wet, though, it loses its ability to insulate, and it may be slow to dry. That can be a real danger on cool days, especially when mist, rain, and wind bring with them the threat of hypothermia.

Synthetics - Outdoor clothing made of nylon, polypropylene, and other manufactured fabrics can be sturdy and comfortable and can maintain warmth even when wet. Look for synthetics in underwear, shirts, sweaters, jackets, pants, mittens, and hats. Lightweight nylon shorts and shirts are ideal for hot weather, drying quickly when wet. Waterproof and breathable synthetic fabrics are used in parkas and rain gear and as the shells of mittens and gloves.

Lightweight long pants and a long-sleeved shirt will shield you from insects, brush, and the sun.

20 of 65

Clothing for Cold Weather

Long sleeved shirt
Long pants (fleece, wool, synthetic)
Fleece or wool sweater
Long underwear (polypropylene)
Wool socks
Warm hooked parka or jacket
Fleece or wool hat
Fleece or wool gloves with water resistant shells
Wool scarf
Rain gear
Appropriate cold/wet footgear

21 of 65

Clothing for Wet Conditions

Rain jacket with hood
Rain pants
Backpack cover

22 of 65

Personal Survival Kit

Pocketknife
First-aid kit
Extra clothing
Rain gear
Water bottle
Flashlight
Trail food
Matches and fire starters
Sun protection
Map and compass

23 of 65

Wilderness Survival Kit

Duct tape
Whistle
Signal mirror or tin canister
Fire tinder
Thin wire
Paracord
Garbage bags
Fishing line and hooks
Mobile phone or GPS receivers

We will revisit this in the end.

Duct Tape - Wrap a length of it around a plastic water bottle and you will always have some handy.

Whistle - A whistle can be heard for longer distances than shouting can and requires less energy.

Signal Mirror - A metal signal mirror can be slipped into your first-aid kit or a side pocket of your pack. Keep it in its case or slip it inside a spare sock to protect it from becoming scratched and dull. You can keep your supplies in a reflective metal tin. This can also be used to hold water.

Fire tinder - There are multiple homemade fire tinders that you can pack easily and bring with you for survival situations. I advocate strongly for cotton balls in petroleum jelly because it is cheap, easy, and light. You can also soak cardboard, newpaper, cotton pads, or mop strings in wax or bring dryer lint. If you pack hand sanitizer or chapstick, you can squeeze or spray that on natural tinder to help it catch. You can open an alcohol prep pad from your first aid kit to use as tinder as well.

Thin Wire - A few feet of thin wire can come in handy for repairing camping gear.

Paracord – There are 1001 uses for paracord. It is very versatile. Some ideas: shoestrings, making a belt, securing things to your belt or backpack, first aid (splints, slings, torniquets), clotheslines, bear hang, hair ties, sewing thread, dental floss.

Garbage Bag - A heavy-duty 30- to 39- gallon plastic bag, preferably in a bright color, can be used for emergency rain gear, to protect tinder and kindling from the rain, and to shield your sleeping bag and other equipment.

Fishing Line and Hooks - Fifty feet of nylon fishing line can have many uses for making repairs. Add a few hooks and you will have the gear you need to try fishing in lakes and streams.

Mobile Phones and GPS - Global positioning system (GPS) receivers allow travelers to pinpoint locations, but they are no substitute for mastering the use of maps and compasses. Likewise, mobile telephones can be a convenient means for groups to contact emergency response personnel, but phones are useless if they malfunction, the batteries are exhausted, or distance and terrain prevent clear reception of signals. Never solely rely on electronic devices for your protection.

24 of 65

Hazards

Thirst
Hunger
Diarrhea
Severe weather
Infections
Terrain disasters
Wild animals, snakes, insects

The biggest threat to your safety in the wilderness is being unprepared.

REQUIREMENT 1A - HAZARDS

Thirst - You can only survive about 3 days without water. And, before you reach 3 days, you are already going to be dehydrated, and all of your bodily and cognitive functions will suffer. It is dehydration that takes most people who die while lost in the wilderness.

Hunger - The body can go about 3 weeks without food, but it isn’t the lack of food that will necessarily kill you. It is what hunger will make you do.

If you are starving, you will probably do something reckless, like eating unidentified mushrooms. You could end up eating something very poisonous, which then creates symptoms like diarrhea, which indirectly kills you.

Diarrhea - Believe it or not, but diarrhea is one of the biggest killers in wilderness survival situations. Consider that diarrhea is the 2^nd leading cause of death in children under 5 worldwide, and diarrhea killed 1.26 million people in 2013. Diarrhea leads to dehydration (which is not something you want in a wilderness survival situation). It causes nutritional deficiencies. And it limits your ability to move. People often get diarrhea because they drank unpurified water (learn how to purify water without a camping filter here). Even if the water looks clean, it might contain a parasite like Giardia.

Severe weather – In many instances, you can check out the weather before you leave on a trip, and cancel a trip if it appears to be unsafe. However, there are times when the weather acts unpredictably and you have to react immediately. Hypothermia - It doesn’t have to be snowing or below zero for the cold to kill you. Hypothermia is a condition in which the body’s core temperature drops below 95 degrees F. Even with mild hypothermia, shivering can be so intense that the person cannot move and function. Severe hypothermia will cause symptoms like a decrease in blood pressure, heart rate, and respiratory rate. The person becomes incoherent. Organs shut down, and death occurs. Hyperthermia - Heat-induced illnesses such as heat exhaustion and heatstroke can be caused by over-exertion, hot and humid weather, inadequate fluid intake, illness (such as an infection). If not properly treated these conditions can be fatal. If you start showing signs of hyperthermia, you must get out of the sun.

Infections - This usually isn’t a problem, but it can quickly turn into a nasty infection in a wilderness survival situation. While the infection might not kill you, it can severely tax your energy reserves and limit your mobility – which in turn could lead to your death. Know first aid.

Terrrain disasters - There is little you can do to avoid rockfalls and other terrain disasters. But do follow smart camping practices – like not putting your tent next to a sheer cliff which a boulder could tumble off of at any moment.

Animals - Large animals like bears and wolves are dangerous in the wild, but they have mostly learned that people should be avoided. Be smart and do things like keep food out of your tent, hang food in a bear bag, and learn what to do if you encounter a wild animal. By comparison, consider an estimated 5-8 thousand bites from venomous snakes each year, and they cause 5 deaths each year. Depending on where you are in the wilderness, I’d be more scared of the small animals than the big beasts.

Stupidity - And, finally, the biggest threat to wilderness survival is pure stupidity. I am always amazed at how many people do downright dumb things – like go for a “walk” in the wilderness without basic gear like a map (seriously, you can’t rely on GPS!), water, and matches.

25 of 65

In the Wilderness

Survival Priorities

Signaling Techniques

Survival Techniques

26 of 65

27 of 65

Our Seven Priorities

STOP – Stop, think, observe, plan.
Provide first aid.
Seek shelter.
Build a fire.
Signal for help.
Drink water.
Don’t worry about food.

REQUIREMENT 2

Survival law of threes:

This is not necessarily “law,” but instead it provides a clear “generic” outline for logistical considerations in the set up and execution of life support systems. It’s easy to remember, and hopefully will help you understand the scouting 7 priorities.

3 seconds to calm down - STOP

3 mins without air – first aid priorities – breathing!

3 hours without heat – shelter, fire

3 days without water – fire, signal, water

3 weeks without food – don’t worry about this.

So we calm down, make sure everyone can breath (first aid), create immediate shelter for warmth, then build a fire for both warmth, signaling, and to treat water. Ideally we build three fires – three is the number of emergencies and a way to signal for help. Then we treat our water. We don’t worry about food because we can make dumb decisions and eat something that is unsafe. If you have food with you, you can prepare it.

Not a priority: Leave No Trace. We want to consider it and do the best we can, but our survival outweighs any LNT considerations.

28 of 65

1) STOP

Stop
Think
Observe
Plan

REQUIREMENT 2, 3

Stop - Remain calm, and analyze the situation. Take a deep breath, sit down if possible, calm yourself and recognize that whatever has happened to get you here is past and cannot be undone. You are now in a survival situation.

Think - Decide what you need to do to survive. Your most important asset is your brain. Use it! Don’t Panic! Move with deliberate care. Think first, so you have no regrets later. Take no action, even a footstep, until you have thought it through. Unrecoverable mistakes and injuries, potentially serious in a survival situation, occur when we act before we engage our brain.

Observe - Take a look around you and look for familiar landmarks. Assess your situation and options. Consider the terrain, weather and resources. Take stock of your supplies, equipment, surroundings, your personal capabilities and, if there are any, the abilities of your fellow survivors.

Plan - Figure out the next best course of action. Prioritize your immediate needs and develop a plan to systematically deal with the emergency and contingencies while conserving your energy. Then, follow your plan. Adjust your plan only as necessary to deal with changing circumstances. Don’t wait until dark to plan!

29 of 65

1) Avoiding Panic

Have alternative plans
Evaluate your resources
Keep a positive attitude
Maintain morale

Assessment
Support
Encouragement
Reward
Reassess

Panic leads you to do irrational and dangerous things to aggravate your emergency further.

Alternative plans - The best way for you to prepare yourself for trouble and not panic is to have plans for different contingencies - like getting lost, becoming immobilized, running out of food, etc.

Evaluate resources - If unexpected trouble comes your way, the best way to avoid panic is to evaluate your resources. What do you and your companions have with you? How can you use these items to make the most of your situation and avoid possible risks?

Positive attitude - Many survivors of wilderness emergencies have said that a willingness to survive is the key factor in getting through a difficult situation. You might assume that everyone has an equal desire to survive, but that is not always the case. Some people will endure almost unbelievable conditions while others in much less difficult situations might simply give up and quit. Make a conscious choice to be among those who can and will endure.

How to Maintain Morale

Assessment: The best way to begin with morale maintenance is to have a fair assessment of the level of morale in your group or yourself. You won't really know what you need to do until you find out what you actually need. Ask your group questions like "How are you feeling right now?" and "What are you thinking about?" Some people may not show their pain or problems, so ask.
Support: Your fellow survivors need to know that you have their back. Show your support through word and deed. Survival situations are stressful and traumatic, and people handle hardships very differently. You might not be able to have an effect on their feelings or thoughts, but show them that you are on their side anyway.
Encouragement: Unless the person has mentally or emotionally "checked out" from the situation, a few positive words can boost morale significantly. Repeat uplifting words to yourself and anyone in your company. Find something that motivates you or your group, and use that idea to bolster morale.
Reward: Find ways to reward yourself or your group. Find good things to look forward to in the short term. Celebrate even your smallest successes (or even just the absence of failure).
Reassess: Don't ignore or neglect morale. Reassess the morale level every day. Find a better morale booster than threats. You don't have to be the class clown, but you need to keep everybody (or yourself) going until you finally make it through your ordeal.

MOST PEOPLE WHO HAVE LEFT A TRIP PLAN WITH A RESPONSIBLE PERSON WHO TRIGGERS A SEARCH EFFORT IMMEDIATELY WILL GET FOUND IN 24 HOURS. YOU CAN DO THIS.

30 of 65

2) First Aid

Dehydration
Heat reactions
Hypothermia
Frostbite
Blisters
Insect stings
Tick bites
Snakebites

31 of 65

32 of 65

33 of 65

34 of 65

Frostbite

First-Degree Frostbite - This only affects the surface of the skin. Early symptoms are pain and itching. The skin then develops white or yellow patches and may become numb. Due to its surface-level impact, it does not usually cause permanent damage. However, an area of skin with first-degree frostbite may lose sensitivity to heat and cold for a short period.

Second-Degree Frostbite - This may cause the skin to freeze and harden but does not affect the deep tissues. After 2 days, purple blisters may develop in areas that froze. These blisters may turn black and become hard, taking 3–4 weeks to heal. A person with second-degree frostbite who has nerve damage might experience numbness, pain, or total loss of sensation in the area. The decreased sense of heat and cold may be permanent.

Third- And Fourth-Degree Frostbite - In people with the most severe presentations of frostbite, the damage penetrates deeper, causing deep tissue injury. Muscles, blood vessels, nerves, and tendons freeze. The skin feels smooth and waxy. Some people may lose the use of an extremity, for example, a foot or a hand. For some people, this is permanent.

Frostbite Treatments

Get out of the cold immediately and slowly warm the affected area.

Remove wet clothing.

Re-warm skin by placing it in warm water.

Do not rub skin.

Do not place affected area in cold water.

35 of 65

36 of 65

Insect Bites

Insect stings

Bites of mosquitoes and chiggers (harvest mites usually cause itchy, red bumps. The size of the swelling can vary from a dot to a half inch.

Signs that a bite is from a mosquito are: itchiness, a central raised dot in the swelling, a bite on skin not covered by clothing, and summertime,

Bites from horseflies, deerflies, gnats, fire ants, harvester ants, blister beetles, and centipedes usually cause a painful, red bump.

Fire ant bites change to blisters or pimples within a few hours.

Treatment of Insect Bites

Apply calamine lotion or a baking soda paste to the area of the bite.

If the itch is severe (as with chiggers), apply nonprescription 1% hydrocortisone cream four times a day.

Do not to pick at the bites or they can become infected or leave scars.

Cold, moist compresses or ice on the area can help.

37 of 65

Bee Stings

Insect stings

Honey bees, bumble bees, hornets, wasps, and yellow jackets can all sting.

These stings cause immediate painful red bumps.

While the pain is usually better in 2 hours, the swelling may increase for up to 24 hours.

If you see a little black dot in the bite, the stinger is still present (this only occurs with honey bee stings). Remove it by scraping it off with a credit card or something similar.

For persistent pain, massage with an ice cube for 10 minutes.

Give acetaminophen immediately for relief of pain and burning.

For itching, apply hydrocortisone cream.

If the person is allergic to bees or other stings and has an anaphylactic reaction, they should be carrying an epi pen. Help them inject the epi pen into their leg.

If you are that person, always pack an epi pen in your first aid kit.

38 of 65

Tick Bites

Tick bites

Ticks can transmit Rocky Mountain spotted fever or Lyme disease.

Tick embeds its mouth parts in skin and may remain for days sucking blood.

Tick removal

Grasp the tick’s mouthparts against the skin, using pointed tweezers.

Pull steadily without twisting until you can ease the tick head straight out of the skin.

DO NOT squeeze or crush the body of the tick.

DO NOT apply substances such as petroleum jelly, nail polish, or a lighted match to the tick while it is attached.

Once you have removed the tick, wash the wound site and your hands with soap and water, and apply rubbing alcohol or antiseptic to the site.

Observe the bite over the next two weeks for any signs of an expanding red rash or flu-like symptoms (Lyme Disease).

If possible, save the tick in a sealed container so it can be tested in case you develop symptoms.

39 of 65

40 of 65

3) Seek Shelter

Site selection

Small size

Natural frameworks

Snow shelters

41 of 65

Survival Shelters

Lean-to
Pitched roof
Thatching

These pictures show the starting structure as lashed together. While that is possible, it is not necessary, especially not for a single night in a survival situation.

Lean-to - You can start with something like a fallen log or rock to start. Imagine building a lean-to fire build. The rock or log should protect you from the wind. You build on the leeward (downwind) side. Take branches and form a 60 degree angle. Weave smaller branches between the larger ones and work large pieces of bark into the structure. If you have a blanket or tarp, put it over the roof. Anchor it with rocks. If you have two, protect the ground under you in cold conditions. In warm conditions, you can scoop out ground and the dirt underneath will be cooler than the top layer.

Pitched roof – You start by taking a long branch and put it into the Y of a standing tree. This is called your ridgepole. Then you lean branches onto the ridgepole to form a pitched roof. You will start to weave smaller branches between the larger ones.

Wall angle depends upon the thatching; the more porous the materials, the steeper the walls. 60 degrees is ideal for bough and grass, 45 for bark. If you have a tarp to cover over your shelter, you can go to 45 degrees after thatching boughs or grass. (more on next page)

42 of 65

Thatching

Bough
Grass
Bark
Snow

Thatching�

Bough - Overlay the framework with a mat of evergreen boughs oriented tips down, with the undersides of the needles facing out. Pine and spruce boughs offer meager water resistance and are better reserved for the steeper walls of lean-tos.

Grass - Water-resistant grass mats can be formed by sewing together bunches of similar size. (Longer -grasses can be cross-hatched and woven; overlap the ends irregularly to make a continuous warp and weft.) Lash thatching to support poles with rope or natural cordage.

Bark - Birch bark is one of the best natural materials for shingle making. Use it if it’s available. When you’re building a bark wall, make sure the bottom of each shingle layer overlaps the top of the row below it. Keep rows in place with poles and insulate over the top with moss or snow. The walls can be pitched at less than a 45-degree angle.

Snow – If there is snow on the ground, cover any thatching with snow for extra insulation.

43 of 65

Cold Weather Shelters

Tree pit
Snow pit
Snow trench
Snow cave

Snow can insulate you and block wind. Four best types: tree pit, snow pit, snow trench, snow cave.

Tree pit - You can get into a tree pit by crawling under the limbs of a tree; fir and spruce are best. Insulate the ground if possible.

Snow pit - A small, narrow pit. You can cover the top with a tarp or branches. Poke ventilation holes near the entrance.

Snow trench - For when the snow is hardened and you have to cut it in blocks. Use the blocks on the edge and sides, can lean them together to make a pitched roof.

Snow cave – A snow cave takes longer to construct. You start by burrowing a tunnel into a the side of a deep, stable drift. You then start to excavate a dome-shaped room in the drift, watch for the snow to appear as a light blue color which suggests the walls are the right thickness. Poke holes in the roof for ventilation.

44 of 65

3) Weather Considerations

Wet
Hot and dry
Windy
Cold and snowy
At or on the water

REQUIREMENT 4 & 9

These are put under “shelter” because often you have to consider these issues when making your shelters and campsites in survival situations.

Wet - While forests can offer an abundance of materials for making shelters and building campfires, they can also be challenging, especially if the weather is wet. The shade of a forest floor can feel chilly, and dampness can make it seem even colder. Do what you must to keep yourself and others dry and warm, and be on guard against hypothermia. Dense forests can make signaling to rescuers difficult. You might need to move a short distance to a meadow, stream bank, or other open area visible from an aircraft. Consider your options carefully, though, before changing locations. Mark your route clearly in case you need to find your way back.

Hot and dry - While the greatest challenge of desert survival might be staying cool during the day, nights are sometimes cold enough in arid regions for you to need clothing, shelter, and perhaps a fire to keep warm. Rest in a high, shady spot during the day, then complete necessary activities in the cool of the evening or early morning. Wear sun protection if you have it, including long sleeves and a hat. A hat or some type of head cover will help beat the heat, too.

Windy - Wind can make other challenges more difficult to overcome. In hot weather, a wind might help keep you cooler, but it can also sap away moisture and cause you to need to drink water more often. In cold weather, wind can blow warm air away from your body and cause the temperature to seem colder than what is indicated on a thermometer. A steady wind can be exhausting as it hammers away at your energy and morale. Protect yourself from the wind by wearing a windproof outer layer - a jacket, rain gear, or even a tarp or tent rain fly. Seek shelter on the calm side of a boulder or large tree. If the weather is chilly or cold, watch for any signs of hypothermia.

Cold and snowy - Cold weather brings with it the very real danger of hypothermia. The temperature does not need to be all that low for hypothermia to be a concern. Do all you can to keep yourself warm and dry. Watch those around you for signs that they are becoming chilled. Take steps to find shelter and, if possible, to light a fire. Snow can be an effective resource for building a shelter. It may be as simple as a depression dug into a snowbank so that you can get out of the wind. With more time and energy, you might dig a snow cave or construct a snow trench to create a shelter that will insulate you from the cold. Be sure to drink plenty of fluids even though you might not feel thirsty. Melt snow over a stove or campfire.

At or on the water - Emergencies on water often begin when a watercraft capsizes or when someone falls from shore or from a boat. The first concern is to protect those in the water from drowning. If you are near shore, try to reach shore by swimming. If the person cannot swim to shore, use the water rescue techniques (reach, throw, row, go) to retrieve the person(s), and the treat for hypothermia. (see next slide)

45 of 65

Water Survival

HELP Position
Group huddle

If you capsize far from shore:

1) Always wear a PFD that fits you. Tighten the straps around you.

2) Find everyone in your group who were on board. Look under the boat. Keep everyone together once they are found.

3) Don’t waste extra energy, as you’ll need it later. Avoid panicking.

4) Try to get back on the boat if possible. Canoes and small boats can sometimes be righted, but don’t waste much energy in the effort.

5) Otherwise, grab the boat or anything else that floats and hang on. A capsized canoe, boat, or other watercraft, even if damaged, might stay afloat. It is also more visible than a person alone in the water.

6) If you’ve lost the boat or have nothing to grab, float (treading water wastes energy and can induce hypothermia faster than floating). Float with your personal flotation device and clothing on, your head positioned so that you can breathe, and your legs drawn up close to your trunk. Huddle together with others if you are not alone. The huddle position is much more visible, so use it even if you are in temperate water.

7) Wait until help arrives.

When a survival situation involves a life raft, look for storage compartments containing an emergency kit that might contain first-aid supplies, water, signaling devices, and emergency food. Follow the instructions included with the kit.

If you are on the ocean for an extended period of time, don’t drink salt water. The mineral content will cause your body to dehydrate more quickly than if you drank no seawater at all. Instead, stay in the shade to keep from sweating away more moisture than necessary. If you are stranded on a watercraft, be ready to collect water from rain or morning dew.

46 of 65

3) Wild Animals and Insects

Insects
Snakes
Bears
Predatory animals
Nuisance animals

We have talked about how to treat the bites of insects and snakes, but we have not talked about how to protect yourself from insects, reptiles, bears, and other animals of the local region.

The best way to keep animals away from your campsite is to pick an ideal place to camp and to set up your campsite correctly. This means knowing where specific animals like to make their home. Water is attractive to snakes, mosquitoes, raccoons, and bears. Wooded areas are good homes for mosquitoes, other insects, snakes, raccoons, and bears. Fallen trees, piles of locks, leaf piles, and rocky areas are friendly to snakes and insects. Damp areas are natural homes for insects, and bears like to eat the vegetation that grows there. This includes marshes, still water, and the bottoms of valleys. Tall grasses are good homes for snakes and insects. So chose the best campsite possible. Ideally, a flat open area with no low grass. A place with some elevation will be helpful in case it rains. It will help keep the moisture away. Make sure there are trees nearby so you can hang your smellables and garbage bags. There should be a water source near enough for hydration, washing and cleaning, but far enough away to avoid the animals seeking it out — about 200 feet should be good.

Insects: Use insect repellent. Wear a long-sleeved shirt, long pants, and a hat. Wear a head net. Tie a bandanna around your face or use a spare T-shirt to protect your head. Guard your hands with gloves or pull a pair of socks over them. Try smoothing a layer of mud on exposed skin. Build a fire and stay close to the smoke. Consider moving to higher ground that might be breezier and less infested with bugs.

Snakes: While snakes are common in many parts of the country, snakebites are rare and seldom result in death. Snakes try to avoid humans, usually striking only when cornered. Use a hiking stick to poke among stones and brush ahead of you when you walk through areas where snakes are common. Stay on trails when possible so that you can see what is in front of you. Watch where you put your hands as you collect firewood or climb over rocks and logs.

Bears: While hiking, alert bears to your approach by making noise. Never approach or provoke a bear. If you encounter a bear, do not run or shout. Stay calm, back away, and avoid eye contact with the bear. Wash early in the day. Avoid using scented lotions, soaps, deodorants, or shampoos. Change into clean sleeping clothes before going to bed. Set up your sleeping area at least 200 feet away from where you will cook and eat. Allow no smellables—food-soiled clothing, deodorant and antiperspirant, soap—in sleeping tents. Clean up and pack out any spilled food, food particles, and campsite trash. Use a bear bag, bear box, or bear canister to protect all unattended smellables. Dispose of dishwater at least 200 feet from your campsite and sleeping area.

Predatory animals: Be especially aware of the kinds of predatory animals you might meet during your adventures. Wolves, coyotes, and cougars are curious. If you happen upon such an animal, face the creature and slowly retreat from the area. Do not approach the animal, run, or play dead. Make yourself as “big” as possible by waving your arms and clothing above your head. Make a lot of noise. If you have no escape or become cornered, throw rocks and sticks. Remember, no matter what kind of wild animal, give all wildlife a wide berth - especially young animals and their mother.

Nuisance animals: Raccoons, squirrels, mice, and opossums want to eat your food and your trash. Wash all your cooking supplies before and after you use them. Mice come into campsites and eat food scraps off pots and pans, leaving germs behind. They can also defecate there and make you sick. Never eat inside your tent, as the scent of food can linger, and never leave food unattended, even if you’re only going to be gone for a few moments. Make sure to be incredibly clean. Ensure that all food, clothing, trash, toothpaste, etc., are packed away, especially when night falls.

47 of 65

�Bear-muda�Triangle

Bear bag
Sump
Cooking area

48 of 65

4) Build A Fire

Gather materials

Tinder
Kindling
Fuel

Fire lays

Teepee
Lean-to

Gather materials:

Tinder is fine, dry material that will burst into flame at the touch of a match.

Kindling is material that will burn with a little encouragement. Twigs no thicker than a pencil.

Fuel is dead and downed wood no bigger than your wrist that you will use to keep your blaze burning. In wet weather, look for small, dry branches near the bases of trees where larger branches above them have kept off the rain.

When we talk about gathering our materials for a nighttime campfire, our rule is a large handful of tender, an armful of kindling, and a stack up to the knees of fuel.

In survival situations, gather three or four times as much tinder, kindling, and fuel wood as you would normally want so you won’t have to run off to gather more flammable material once the fire is burning.

Fire lays:

Teepee - Place a big, loose handful of tinder in the center of your fire site. Mound plenty of kindling over the tinder. Then, arrange small and medium-sized sticks of fuelwood around the kindling as if they were the poles of a tepee. Leave an opening in the “tepee” on the side the wind is blowing against so that air can reach the middle of the fire.

Leanto – Place a large log as a wind break in the event of windy conditions. Place tender leeward of the wind, and then lean the kindling and fuel wood over the tender.

49 of 65

Natural tinder

Shredded, dry bark
Pine needles
Leaves
Pine cones
Wood shavings
Cattails

More information about tinder. Because it is super important.

Hopefully, you will also pack good tender to get a fire started as part of your survival kit. I always pack cottonballs covered in petroleum jelly. However, we should be prepared for the eventuality of not having homemade tender with us.

Very fine tinder is essential for lighting fires without matches. In the field, try shredding the dry inner bark of an oak tree. You can also use dry pine straw, but you may want to grind it in your hands a bit to make it more flammable. In wet conditions, you may have to split open a log and shave the dry, inner wood into tender.

In certain areas, cattails are abundant. You can gather up the old, fluffy part of the cattail be used as tinder. It’s a natural source of tinder that is extremely flammable. The cattail fluff can be packed into a tin can and set on a fire to be turned into charcoal, which is a better source of tinder than unprocessed fluff.

50 of 65

4) Ways to Build a Fire

Matches or lighters
Magnifying lens
Strikers
Bow and drill
Battery and steel wool

51 of 65

Magnifying Lens

Glasses
Magnifying glass
Fresnel lens
Camera lens
Binoculars
Telescopes
Glass bottle

52 of 65

Strikers

Flint and steel
Ferro rods
Magnesium bars

Flint and steel, ferro rods, and mag bars will throw sparks from striking but each has different properties.

Flint and steel - The traditional flint and steel is made up of the flint. Which could be a type of hard rock, like quartz, flint or chert, etc. The steel striker portion has a high carbon content and is heat treated. The steel striker is struck against the flint, or vice a versa. (Or iron pyrite rocks can be used with flint.) When the steel is struck with the rock, the hard rock slices tiny particles of metal off. The iron when exposed to oxygen, oxidizes and ignites. The flint should have a sharp edge to help with the sparks. The drawback of the flint and steel is, that the sparks created are dull and generally require charred material to catch a spark, such as char cloth. There are some tinder fungus and plant materials that can take a spark, but usually the tinder range is limited and has to be charred.

Ferrocerium rod - The ferrocerium rod is nicknamed “ferro rod” for short. The ferro rod creates hot sparks, but not an instant flame. The ferro rod is also called a firesteel, Swedish firesteel, fireflash, metal match and mischmetal, because of the mix of the compositions of metals. It is occasionally called an artificial flint or flint striker, but it isn’t a flint and steel. Different brands of ferro rods have different compositions of metals and some may be softer or harder to scrape. There are advantages of both. Like, a softer ferro rod won’t last as long, as more materials are being scraped off it. However, the softer metal allows more to be scraped off and hence more material for potentially greater sparks. Because the ferro rod doesn’t create a flame, but sparks, most tinder has to be finely processed and ideally dry. The ferrocerium rod has a black protective coating on it when new, this coating needs to be scraped away before the exposed metal gives a spark.

Magnesium rod - The magnesium bar is sometimes called a mag bar for short. The magnesium bar or block, is normally combined with a smaller ferrocerium rod, glued to the top of it. The mag bar fire starter is used by scraping shavings off the magnesium block. The magnesium scrapings are then ignited by a spark from the ferro rod. The magnesium shavings burn extremely hot and help light tinder and kindling. Some magnesium blocks will come with a striker, like a hack saw blade attached to it. This helps to shave off the magnesium metal and also helps scrape the ferro rod for a spark. The shavings can easily blow away from the wind, so scrap off the metal shavings in cover, away from the wind. Or place them in a depression / divot in some wood for a base. This also keeps the materials off the damp ground. An advantage of the mag bar is that the magnesium scrapings are the tinder. Also when ignited, the high temperature may help ignite additional sub-par tinder (Damp, but not wet.) or kindling.

Ferro rods produce 3,000º F sparks while flint and steel sparks are in the 800º F range. Generally, flint and steel needs charred material (char cloth) for ignition. Ferrocerium (ferro rods) will ignite un-charred material and marginal tinder. Magnesium rods can be used to scrape some flammable shavings into a pile and use them as tinder. Generally, the

How to use strikers:

Form your fine tinder into a bird’s nest shape the size of a softball.

Holding the flint just above or in the tinder, strike it with the steel to direct the sparks into it. Use a downward motion to strike the steel against an edge of the flint.

Nurse a spark into a flame by blowing on it very gently.

When the tinder bursts into flame, and the kindling catches fire, push it underneath your fire lay.

53 of 65

Bow and Drill

Socket
Spindle or Drill
Cord
Bow
Fireboard

Bow and Drill -- You'll need the following items:

Socket - flat, hand-size rock with a slight depression on one side

Spindle or Drill - sturdy, straight hardwood stick, 1-2 inches in diameter and a foot long

Fire Board - flat, softwood board about a foot long, 6 inches wide and one inch thick

Bow - flexible and sturdy green stick about one inch in diameter and 18-24 inches long

Cord - hiking boot laces or paracord work well

Once you've gathered your items, it's time to make some fire: Cut a slight, round depression just inside the center edge of the fire board. Notch a V-shaped cut on the underside of the center edge that just meets the depression. Bend your bow stick into a half moon and tie it tight with your boot lace. Place the board on the ground and put a cotton ball-sized bunch of tinder under the notch. Put your foot on the board for stability and loop the bow string around the drill, resting in the round depression. Place your socket on top of the drill with moderate pressure and saw the bow back and forth. This will twist the drill and create hot, black powder that falls onto your tinder. Before long, the tinder should ignite and you can transfer it to your fire pit.

54 of 65

9V Battery and Steel Wool

9 Volt Battery
Fine steel wool

55 of 65

5) Signal for Help

Electronics and 911
Noise
Color and motion
Fire and smoke
Mirrors and lights
Ground to air signals

REQUIREMENT 7ABC

The universal signal of help: SOS is the Morse code distress signal. SOS is signaled by three short blasts, three long blasts, and three short blasts. Generally this is translated in survival situations to any kind of signal repeated three times: Three shouts, three blasts of whistle or bugle, three gunshots, three columns of smoke.

If you are ever completely lost, make your position known as soon as possible. Ideally, use both audio and visual cues, but visual cues are the most efficient.

The way to do this is by using some attention-getting device. This would be anything that would disturb the “natural” look or “natural” sound of the area.

Electronic Devices - Mobile phones are useful in areas with coverage, but many backcountry areas are out of reach of a cell tower. Before you leave, find out whether the area you will be visiting has reliable service.

Noise - Recognized signals of distress include three blasts on a whistle, three shouts, three bursts from a boat air horn, or three of any other sounds delivered every minute or two.

Color and motion - Hanging brightly colored clothing or camping gear on tree branches can catch the rescuers’ attention. Flags, banners, and contrasting colors can be part of your signaling efforts. If you can see rescuers, wave a shirt over your head or attach it to a pole and wave it as a flag.

Fire and smoke - A fire will probably already be part of your survival strategy. The light from it might attract attention at night, and smoke can be seen during the day. Experiment with ways to make a fire smoky by adding pitchy wood, damp leaves, branches, ferns, grasses, and other vegetation to the flames without actually putting out the fire.

Mirrors – (next slide)

Ground to air signals – (next, next slide)

56 of 65

Mirrors and Lights

Mirrors
Flashlights
Flares

Mirror - When the sun is shining, the flash of light reflected with a signal mirror can be seen for miles. If you don’t have a signal mirror, you might be able to use a piece of shiny flat metal from an aircraft or remove a rearview mirror from a motor vehicle, or even use the shiny side of a CD or DVD. You can use the lid of a can. Consider packing a metal tin in your first aid or wilderness survival kit. Sweep the horizon with the mirror at often repeated periods during the day. On bright days the reflected light can be easily spotted by a plane. Even on hazy days it can be seen by aircraft. To signal, hold the mirror close to your eye. Extend your arm with your index and middle fingers making a V shape. Place the target (airplane or horizon line) through the V sight, and then tilt the mirror so the sunlight reflects on the mirror and through your fingers.

Flashlight - At night, use a flashlight to send groups of three flashes in the direction where you believe rescuers might be able to see them.

Flares - Flares can be found on airplanes and in some watercraft and motor vehicles and can be effective if you have a rescue aircraft in sight. They are visible for only a short time, though, so save them for the right moment.

57 of 65

Ground to Air Signals

V – Require Assistance
X – Require Medical Assistance
N – No
Y – Yes
Directional Arrow – Going in this direction

58 of 65

6) Gathering Water

Streams and rivers
Snow
Seawater
Rain
Groundwater
Vegetation

REQUIREMENT 10

Drink plenty of water. You can survive for days without food, but in hot weather without water, only hours. Dehydration happens in cold weather, too, even though you may not feel as thirsty.

The best rule is to drink plenty of water—enough so that your urine is clear—whenever you are in the outdoors.

If you’re stranded in the wilderness, where you’ll perspire and rapidly lose fluids, one of the most key factors for you to survive will be your ability to constantly secure drinkable water. Different environments and climates will lead to different water gathering techniques and sources.

Rivers and streams - The most obvious sources are streams, rivers and lakes. Animals always know where the water is, so be on the lookout for wildlife or animal tracks. Lush green vegetation is also a sign that water is nearby.

Snow – In frigid areas, the primary source of water will come from snow and ice. You’ll have to melt and purify the water first before you eat or drink it as it can otherwise reduce body temperature and lead to you feeling more dehydrated.

Seawater – If you are stranded at sea, you’ll either have seawater or rain as sources for gathering water. For seawater, you must use a desalinator else your body will take in too much salt from the type of water and eventually fail (kidneys).

Rain - Rainwater in most rural areas can usually be consumed without risk of disease or illness. If it rains, use any and all containers you can get your hands on to collect it. If you have a poncho or can find some plastic sheeting, spread it out and tie the corners to trees a few feet off the ground. Find a container and tie the poncho on a slant with a slight sag to allow the rain to collect and drain. If you can't find a container, tie it level on all four corners and give it even more of a sag -- it will serve as a makeshift water bag.

Ground water – If you find a muddy area, dig a hole about a foot deep and one foot in diameter and wait. You may be surprised to find that the hole is soon filled with water. This groundwater will be muddy, but straining it through some cloth will clean it up, and it will get you by in the short term.

Vegetation – This is especially important in desert climates. Fruits, coconuts, cacti, vines, palm trees and bamboo can be good sources of liquid sustenance. Bend the top of a green bamboo tree down about a foot off the ground and tie it off. Cut a few inches off the tip, put a container underneath and leave it overnight. The next day, you should have a nice amount of clear, drinkable water.

59 of 65

Solar Still

Plastic sheet
Digging tool
Rock
Container
Drinking tube (optional)

If you're stranded and there isn't a fresh water source around, then you need to get to work on collecting water. There are a few techniques to do this, and it doesn't hurt to set up more than one system. The more water you can collect, the better your chances of survival.

One pretty basic way you can collect water is to make a belowground still. To do this, you'll need some plastic sheeting, a digging tool, a container, a drinking tube and a rock.

Choose a moist area that gets sunlight for most of the day.

Dig a bowl-shaped hole about three feet across and two feet deep, with an additional sump dug in the center.

The sump should be flat and big enough to hold your container.

Place the container into the sump.

Put the drinking tube in the container and run it up and out of the main hole.

Place the plastic over the hole and cover the sides with rock and soil to keep it there.

Put your rock in the center of the sheet and let it hang down about 18 inches, directly over the container to form an inverted cone.

Add more soil on the edges for stability.

The moisture from the ground reacts with the heat from the sun to produce condensation on the plastic. The still forces the condensation to run down the plastic and into your container. You can also add vegetation inside the hole to increase the amount of moisture -- just make sure the plants aren't poisonous.

Use the tube to drink directly from the container. If you don't have one, you can remove the container and reassemble it after. A good still can produce up to one quart of drinking water per day.

60 of 65

6) Treating Water

Boiling
Chemical treatment
Filtering

Backpacking filter kit
Lifestraw
Homemade filter

DEMONSTRATE – THE SCOUTS HAVE TO DO THIS.

Boiling - The surest means of making your water safe is by boiling it. Use your shirt or other cloth to filter out large bits of sediment before boiling. Use a pot or other metal container on a stove or over a fire and bring the water to a full boil.

Chemical Treatment - Water-treatment tablets contain iodine or chlorine to kill waterborne bacteria and viruses. They are effective and easy to use. An emergency survival kit should have a supply of water treatment tablets. Many people are allergic to iodine, so make sure you know if you are before you use them. Murky water often needs more than one tablet to make it safe, and any tablet needs at least 30 minutes to be fully effective. Like with boiling, it's best to give the water an initial straining with some kind of cloth. It's also safer to drink warmer water, so if it's from a cold mountain stream, allow it to heat up a little in the sun first.

Filtering - Most backcountry filters are simple handheld pumps used to force water through a screen with pores so small that bacteria and protozoa cannot get through. The finer the screen, the more effective the filter. Information provided with new filters describes their use, maintenance, and the degree of filtration they can provide.

The Lifestraw is a portable filtration device that lets you safely drink directly from any fresh water source. It's about 11 inches long, less than 1 inch around, and looks like a jumbo drinking straw. One end has the narrow mouthpiece, the other goes directly into the water source. Each Lifestraw lasts 700 liters, roughly the amount of water needed for one person per year.

(homemade filter next slide)

61 of 65

62 of 65

Water Filter

Plastic bag
Water
Rocks
Sand
Bandana
Charcoal

63 of 65

7) Don’t Worry About Food

Do not eat wild plants unless you are absolutely certain of their identity.

The energy used trying to capture and prepare food often are better used improving your shelter, gathering water, or taking care of other priorities.

Eat the food you bring if you have any, try to economize.

Consider fishing if you are near water.

64 of 65

Revisiting a Survival Kit

Avoiding Panic
First Aid
Signaling
Shelter
Fire
Water
Food
Other items

65 of 65

Thank you!