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Hoods - What are they?

Separate or Not

Hoods can be made and worn on their own or as part of a cloak, cape, or coat. Hoods can also be worn under hats.

History

The word hood literally means covering. Hoods were extremely popular in Medieval Europe.

Chaperon

A hood with a short cape is called a chaperon. A chaperon can be turned upside down and worn as a large hat.

Liripipe

The tail of a hood is called a liripipe. Liripipes can be short, very long, or absent.

Events

Hoods are a great way to get some protection from the elements at events while not ruining anyone’s medieval experience!

A hood is an article of clothing that typically covers the head and neck and shelters the wearer from sun and rain.

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On the previous page: A crocheted Skjold-style hood made by Jeanie Mickelsen and modeled by Baby Betty Sue. Hoods of this type can be very warm and easily decorated with a variety of stitches.

A dagged linen hood with hand embroidery and a long liripipe, worn as a hood and also turned upside down and worn as a chaperon. Made and photographed by Crystal Fleckner.

A linen hood with faced trim and short liripipe made by Ellie Apland and modeled by Sir Peter the Quick.

To the right: A cotton/poly hood with faced trim and machine-sewn decorative stitching made by Ellie Apland and modeled by Sir Gold Crest.

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Patterning & Construction

This is the basic shape of a hood. Modifications are endless and generally easy to accomplish.

Hood pattern cut out of canvas, with the cape on top in this photo. A hood with a long tail & cape requires about 1.5 yards of fabric. A short cape & tail need about 1 yard. A Skjold-style hood only takes about half a yard.

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Layout

This tutorial explains how to make a medieval-style hood. If you wish to make a Skjold-style hood, please see the resources at the end of this document. ��Generally it is best to cut a medieval-style hood by folding your fabric in half so that the fold becomes the top center of the hood, as shown. The cape should be cut on a regular curve, with 90 degree angles at the front and back seam of the hood. Make sure there is enough room in the narrowest part (at the “neck” of the hood) for your head to fit through.

You can also use two pieces of fabric and sew them together along the top center, as shown on the next page.

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Cutting

Cut as shown previously along a folded piece of fabric, or cut 2 pieces of this size and shape from appropriate fabric - linen, wool, cotton, or cotton/poly are great.

Pinning & Stitching

Pin along the center edge and below the face hole, as shown. Stitch along those edges. Double stitch. Finish raw edges with a french seam or zigzag stitch.

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Trimming

Finish the raw edge of the face hole. It can be hemmed, enclosed with bias tape, or faced as shown here.

To Make Faced Trim

Cut a strip of fabric that is as long as both sides of the face hole plus a few inches, and 1” wider than you want the finished trim to be. Pin the strip along the edge of the face hole on the inside of the hood. Stitch and double stitch. Mark a line at the end of the trim even with the seam at the bottom of the face hole. Pin and stitch the lower ends of the trim together. Cut away excess trim. Flip the trim to the outside. Iron it flat. Fold the outside edge under ½ inch all the way around. Pin and stitch the facing down. It can be decorated however you choose. Here the facing is done with two strips of fabric sewn together and embellished with decorative stitching.

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Hemming

Hoods can easily be lined for extra weather protection. To line a hood, make two hoods of similar shape and size. Do not finish the raw edges of the face hole or the cape. Put one hood inside the other, right sides together. Stitch them together along the face hole. Turn right side out. Match the hems and pin. Fold under twice and stitch down. Top stitch face and hem.

Lining

Finish the raw edge of the cape. You may do a folded hem, a faced edge, or use bias tape. In this case, I have folded the hem to the inside ¼” and then again at ½” and stitched it down. I then added a decorative machine-sewn stitch.

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Modified Skjoldehamn wool hood by Marcy Fangmeier, lined with polyester, and hand-stitched with tapestry weight yarn in patterns inspired by the Mammen archeological findings.

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On the previous page: A lined Skjold-style machine-embroidered brocade hood with long liripipe and corded edge made by Zoe Travis and Casey Joseph. Modeled by Squire Bohne.

A linen-lined wool Skjold-style hood with hand embroidery made and modeled by Emily Magnuson. Photo by Robert August Crozier.

To the left: A lined, dagged Skjold-style hood with extra-long liripipe made by Alexis Beucler.

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Reversible linen Skjold-style hoods made by Sarah Valkyrie Lemay and modeled by Sir Brennon.

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To the left: A Belegarth Herald’s hood in the Skjold style, made with lightweight cotton by Melissa Walters and modeled by Angel.

Below: A cotton-poly medieval-style hood with faced trim and decorative stitching made by Ellie Apland.

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