So you’re trying to buy a commuting ebike

Updated August 2024

Who this guide is geared towards

• You’re thinking about buying an ebike (maybe you’ve seen my presentation on why ebikes are amazing!)
• You’re primarily looking to conveniently get around town, commuting, running errands, maybe transporting young children (also see my tips for safe riding, especially in DC)
• You have the money to spend on a decent ebike
• You are in America - lots of the information in here will be useful in other markets too but some contents (e.g., the Class 1/2/3 system, common brands, security needs) are US-specific

​

• This guide is not intended to give advice on building or converting an e-bike
• This guide is not intended to give advice on buying scrambler-style e-bikes or electric motorcycles

2

Contents

• Budget ranges
• Form factors
• Features
• Other considerations

3

Contents

• Budget ranges
• Form factors
• Features
• Other considerations

4

Budget ranges

The e-bike market can roughly be divided into three ranges:

• Cheap (<$1,000)
• Mid-range ($1,000 - $2,500)
• High-end ($2,500+, can reach 5 figures)

5

Budget ranges

Cheap bikes (<$1,000)

• Cheap e-bikes will typically come from Amazon or Alibaba, from relatively unknown brands with weak customer support
• Inexpensive components may be less reliable, lower performance, or, in the case of batteries, potentially dangerous
• Relatively low occurrence of highly-customized or proprietary parts in this price range, which means that they should be relatively repairable. But be sure to research your particular model as much as possible before buying, as there may be exceptions.
• Some users have difficulty finding bike shops who will work on their bikes bought from direct-to-consumer companies; consider researching this before buying.¹

6

Budget ranges

¹ See, e.g., this reddit thread

Mid-range bikes ($1,000-2,500) (1/2)

• The most popular e-bikes on the market
• Usually direct-to-consumer (DTC) companies with pretty good reputations for quality, decent components and performance, and large and active online owners’ communities
• Most of these DTC companies are young, highly marketing-driven, prone to boom-bust cycles based on private fundraising
• Drawbacks in this price range include uneven customer service (many DTC companies shed jobs during leaner times, leading to long and poor wait times for help), some highly-customized/proprietary components that leave you tethered to the company

7

Budget ranges

Mid-range bikes ($1,000-2,500) (2/2)

• Some users have difficulty finding bike shops who will work on their bikes bought from DTC companies; consider researching this before buying.*
• Most bikes in this range use Chinese motors, typically hub motors, many use cadence sensors, most of them have throttles
• More expensive bikes in this range may have some features more typically found on high-end bikes, like mid-drive motors, torque sensors, or belt drives
• Some well-known brands:

8

Budget ranges

* See, e.g., this reddit thread, or this one

High-end bikes ($2,500+) (1/2)

• Typically more established companies
• Usually sold through a dealer / local bike shop network, making it easier to test ride bikes (subject to inventory) and providing an easy servicing and repair location
• Most bikes use German or Japanese motors (e.g., Bosch, Yamaha, Shimano, Brose) in this price range and are mid-drive bikes with no throttle; although some of these brands have started launching entry-level bikes <$3,000 with hub drive/throttle systems (e.g., Specialized Globe Haul ST). Note that these electronic components can be expensive to repair or replace once out of warranty!
• Use higher-quality components that are well-known and well-supported by the companies and local bike shops.

9

Budget ranges

High-end bikes ($2,500+) (2/2)

• Generally no-hassle purchasing and ownership experience, at least for the first few years; BUT reliance on your local bike shop for repairs may leave your bike in the shop for long stretches if service is needed. Typically, though, you should be able to own these bikes for five years or more.
• Usually UL Certified - most rigorous standardized testing of battery safety
• Some well-known brands:

10

Budget ranges

Contents

• Budget ranges
• Form factors
• Features
• Other considerations

11

E-bike form factors (1/5)

• Comfortable, upright riding position
• Less efficient / athletic riding posture
• Decent cargo capacity (often ~50 lbs on the rear rack)
• Moderately heavy bikes (usually 50-70 lbs)
• Medium-thickness tires to balance speed, traction & comfort
• Can be high-step or step-through
• Examples: Lectric XPress Step-Thru, Electric Bike Company, Radster Road, FLX Step-through 2.0, Ride1Up Cafe Cruiser, Surface604 Rook, Gazelle (many models), Specialized Turbo Como, Benno 46er, Riese & Muller Nevo

Cruiser (or “Dutch-style”)

• Somewhat upright riding position, but slightly more athletically engaged than a cruiser
• Lighter-weight ebikes (often <50 lbs, some <40 lbs)
• Some cargo capacity (~25 lbs on the rear rack), useful for commuting but not necessarily carrying a kid or lots of groceries
• Moderate-to-thin tires to increase speed
• Examples: Propella, Aventon Soltera, Lectric XPress, Ride1Up Roadster, VVolt Centauri, Ride1Up Prodigy, Priority Current, Momentum Transend E+, Specialized Turbo Vado, Riese & Muller Roadster

Hybrid bike

12

Form factors

Bikes that I think stand out in their class for quality, features, or value are highlighted

E-bike form factors (2/5)

• Maximum carrying capacity (usually >300 lbs total, sometimes >400 lbs).
• Very heavy bikes (usually 70lbs+)
• Long enough to hold 2 kids (in some cases, 3) on the back. Often have many accessories for kids/passengers available (e.g., passenger rails, weather enclosures)
• Medium-thickness tires to provide comfort and load capacity
• Typically step-through (don’t kick your passenger in the face!)
• Examples: Lectric XPedition, RadWagon, Velotric Packer, Aventon Abound, Specialized Globe Haul LT, Momentum Cito E+ & Pakyak, Tern Quick Haul Long (forthcoming), Benno Boost, Cannondale Cargowagen Neo, Trek Fetch 2, Xtracycle, Yuba, Tern GSD, Surly Big Easy

Longtail cargo

• Upright riding position
• Very good carrying capacity; typically sized to hold 1 additional passenger only. Fairly heavy bikes (usually 60lbs+)
• Medium-thickness tires to provide comfort, load capacity, and stability on smaller tires
• Typically step-through (so you don’t kick your passenger in the face)
• Examples: Velotric Go, RadRunner, Radio Flyer Flex, Surface604 Werk, Specialized Globe Haul ST, Benno RemiDemi, Tern Quick Haul, Surly Skid Loader, CERO One, Tern HSD

Utility (or short/mid-tail cargo)

13

Form factors

Bikes that I think stand out in their class for quality, features, or value are highlighted

E-bike form factors (3/5)

• Upright riding position, step-through geometry. Usually very accommodating for shorter riders.
• Typically have medium-to-fat tires to maximize stability on smaller wheels
• Weight varies substantially; some lighter bikes (~50lbs or under); many cheap and extremely heavy (70 lbs+) on the market as well
• Can be folded up for convenient storage
• Examples: Lectric, Superhuman Shapeshifter, Fiido, Dahon, Evelo Dash*, Gocycle, Brompton, Tern Vektron

Folding bike

• Designed to be nimble urban commuting bikes
• Small wheels (~20”), relatively lightweight
• Take up less space than normal bikes and have a low center of gravity, but lack a folding mechanism
• Small category of bikes (but growing!)
• Some cargo capacity (but typically not a huge amount)
• Examples: Propella Mini Max, Cannondale Compact Neo, Lectric One, Tern NBD

Compact bike

14

Form factors

Bikes that I think stand out in their class for quality, features, or value are highlighted

*Has been listed as “sold out” for a while, not sure if/when it is coming back

E-bike form factors (4/5)

• Efficient, athletically-engaged, hunched over, aerodynamic position
• Extremely skinny tires to maximize speed
• Minimal cargo capacity, no suspension
• Extremely lightweight
• Only made by high-end bike companies, typically very expensive

Road or racing bike

• Relatively upright riding position, but typically designed to be comfortable to ride standing up
• Thicker tires to maximize traction and grip off road
• Front suspension standard, rear suspension common
• Some cargo capacity, varies model to model. Rear racks especially difficult on bikes with rear suspensions.
• Examples: RadRover 6, Surface604 Boar, Aventon Ramblas, Quietkat Apex, Cube Stereo, Co-Op DRT e3.1, Bulls Evo, Specialized Turbo Levo

Mountain bike

15

Form factors

Bikes that I think stand out in their class for quality, features, or value are highlighted

E-bike form factors (5/5)

• Looks more like a moped or motorcycle than a traditional bicycle
• May have pedals but is designed to be mostly used without pedaling
• Often has the ability to unlock higher speeds (30 mph+)
• Typically ~60-70 lbs
• Gets dirty looks on shared trails
• Elevated risk of getting regulated out of easy ownership
• Examples: EBC Model J, Juiced Scorpion, Super73, Sur-Ron, Trek Ponto Go!

Scramblers and e-motorcycles

• Maximum carrying capacity
• Very heavy bikes (100 lbs+)
• Many accessories to customize front storage space, including sometimes infant carseat adapters
• All e-bikes of this type are very expensive (~$4,000+)
• Examples: Bunch, Yuba Supercargo CL, Trek Fetch 4, Urban Arrow, Riese & Muller Load

Bakfiets or “basket”/“box” bike

(also called “cargo,” especially in Europe)

16

Form factors

Bikes that I think stand out in their class for quality, features, or value are highlighted

Size and weight

• Ebikes are typically heavy. If your ebike regularly has to travel up/down a flight of stairs, proceed with caution, because most ebikes will be too heavy for you. Look for (relatively rare) bikes in the <40 lbs range (see appendix).
• Note that because ebikes are typically heavy, most ebikes will not fit on a standard trunk bike rack on your car.
• If you are pretty short (say, <5’5), pretty tall (say, >6’3), or on the heavier side (say, >250 lbs.), be extra selective about size, fit, and payload, as some common ebike designs may not be appropriate for your needs.

17

Form factors

The best bikes for hauling kids typically share some common features

18

Form factors

Small (24” or less, often 20”) wheels:

• Lower center of gravity for better balance
• Child is closer to the ground in the unfortunate event of a fall
• Easier to load/unload a lower bike

Center kickstand for better stability while loading/unloading kids

Rear rack rated for heavy (60lbs+) loads that can carry kids even once they’ve outgrown a child seat, or carry multiple kids*

Passenger accessories available like protective rails (aka monkey bars), seat pads, and rain covers for safety and comfort

Highly-adjustable handlebars and seatposts to support a wide range of heights (so parents of different sizes can comfortably use)

Step-through frame so you can get on/off without having to swing your leg over the back of the bike with a kid on it

*Important note - many longtail cargo bikes advertise being able to carry 2 kids, but may not be able to hold 2 child seats, or a child seat with a passenger rail (and may not advertise this). Make sure the bike you’re looking at fits your specific needs / desired configuration.

Contents

• Budget ranges
• Form factors
• Features
• E-bike classes
• Mid-drive vs. hub drive
• Cadence vs. torque sensors
• Throttle vs. pedal assist
• Gearing and drivetrain
• Other considerations

19

E-Bike classes

• E-bikes in the U.S. are typically divided into three “classes” of e-bikes:
• Class 1: Pedal assist only, motor ends assistance at 20 mph
• Class 2: Throttle e-bikes, typically have a pedal assist but can be powered without pedaling at all
• Class 3: Pedal assist e-bikes, motor ends assistance at 28 mph
• Local laws may dictate that some classes of e-bikes may not be used in certain situations (e.g., some shared multi-use trails may disallow Class 2 or Class 3 bikes)
• Some bikes may be Class 2 and Class 3 (i.e., they have a throttle, and the motor goes up to 28 mph)
• Some bikes may ship with a 20 mph limit, but allow users to change settings or reprogram the controller to allow for Class 3 operation

20

Features

Mid-drive vs. Hub drive

• This is a difference in where the motor is located and how it operates

• Mid-drive motors are located where the pedals attach to the frame, they apply power through the chain-ring (the part that you apply force to when you pedal)

• Hub motors are integrated into the wheel (typically the rear wheel, but not always) and directly spin the wheel, independent of the force you apply to the pedals & chainring

21

Features

Mid-drive vs. Hub drive

Typical benefits of mid-drive motors

• Almost always paired with a torque sensor; mid-drive + torque sensor gives the most “natural” pedaling experience
• Higher applied torque; while the torque numbers given on spec sheets will often be lower than on hub motors (ignore spec comparisons between hub & mid bikes for this reason), in reality the applied torque available is higher because the torque can be scaled using your gears. As a result, mid-drive motors are typically preferred if there’s a lot of hill-climbing in your future.
• Longer range, because the motor takes advantage of gearing for extra efficiency
• Better center of gravity (weight is low and centered on the frame)
• Can be paired with an internally-geared hub
• Easier to change a rear wheel flat because it doesn’t have a motor attached to it
• Cleaner look with fewer exposed cables

• Applies consistent power no matter what gear you are in, so no need to manage gearing to maximize torque or minimize strain on drivetrain (poor gear management can break the chain on a mid-drive motor)
• Usually have a throttle, giving more flexibility in riding, and allowing the bike to be used even in the event of a broken chain
• Less strain on other components of your drive train, as the hub independently operates on your wheel (mid-drives wear through chains and cassettes faster)
• Typically more affordable than mid-drive bikes
• Easier to maintain top speed because the motor can crank out maximum power without responding to pedaling

Typical benefits of hub-drive motors

22

Features

Cadence vs. Torque sensors

• Every bike has sensors that tell the motor when to turn on and how much power to apply
• Cadence sensors detect that you have started spinning the pedals with your feet, and tell the motor to engage
• Torque sensors detect that you are applying pressure to the pedals, and tell the motor to engage
• Torque sensors are typically more expensive but preferred,¹ because:
• The power applied by the motor scales with the power you’re applying by foot, resulting in a more “natural” feeling application of power, vs. a cadence sensor whose application of power feels a little more like flipping a switch on and off and can be jerky.
• Because cadence sensors rely on pedal revolution to activate the motor, there is a noticeable delay between when you start pedaling and when the motor turns on. Torque sensors respond almost instantly.
• Virtually all higher-end bikes use torque sensors.

¹ But not everybody agrees! And “current-based” cadence sensors are typically preferred to “speed-based” cadence sensors for a more natural pedaling response. Usually, you’ll have to ask a manufacturer which of these types of cadence sensor they use.

23

Features

Throttle vs. Pedal-assist

• Some e-bikes have a throttle (either a thumb trigger or a twist throttle) that allows the motors to apply power without pedaling (which makes them Class 2)
• Throttle e-bikes all also use pedal-assistance (i.e., the motor engages in response to your pedaling), but give users an additional option to throttle
• Throttles are only found on bikes with hub/Chinese motors, so are absent from higher-end models
• Throttles can be useful for commuting, allowing easy stable travel at very low speeds (e.g. on sidewalks), and easy start-ups from red lights & stop signs

24

Features

Gearing and drivetrain

• Some e-bikes are single-speed e-bikes, meaning they only have one gear. These are very simple and reliable but may not be as easy to use to climb hills, and/or may result in “ghost-pedaling” (pedaling really fast like you’re on a hamster wheel without adding much power to the bike) at higher speeds
• Most e-bikes have gear cassettes, usually 7 to 9 gears. Ghost-pedaling can still be an issue if the highest gear isn’t small enough. Test riding is always recommended!

• Some higher-end bikes have internally geared hubs (IGHs). These are sealed gear systems with some major benefits - they allow you to shift gears while stopped (making stop & go urban commuting easier) and they require less maintenance and are more reliable (but maintenance is more complex).
• Some IGHs may be continuously variable (CVTs), some may be fully automatic (they change gears for you).
• IGHs are often paired with belt drives, which replace bike chains with belts, which require far less maintenance and last much longer than chains.

25

Features

Contents

• Budget ranges
• Form factors
• Features
• Other considerations

26

Repairability

• Your bike will need regular servicing, and things will go wrong. Make sure you have a plan for how to repair it.
• Higher-end bikes should easily be able to be serviced at the bike shop you buy from
• For other brands, consider prioritizing bikes that minimize proprietary parts (like motor, battery, controller) and have solid customer service reputations
• Consider reaching out to a local bike shop or mechanic before you buy to see if they will be comfortable working on your bike. Many shops will typically work on the standard mechanical parts of your bike (assuming they are not highly unusual or proprietary) but may not service electronic components.

27

Other considerations

Budget for accessories

Leave yourself room in your budget for accessories. These can easily add a few hundred dollars to the cost of your bike:

• High quality lock: You will likely want high-quality locks to protect your investment, which can be expensive! More security tips on the next page.
• Helmet: Keep your brain safe! Make sure you are riding with something that is at least MIPS certified and fits well.
• Tools: You’ll probably want some basic tools to do maintenance, at a minimum a good tire pressure gauge, bike pump, and allen key set.
• Passenger accessories: If you’re a parent, you might buy a passenger rail & child seat(s) and your total accessories cost (with all the other things on this page) could be around $1,000 or even more.
• Miscellaneous accessories: You might buy front or rear racks or baskets, a side-view mirror, bungee cords, a cushier seat, suspension seatpost, lights for your bike or helmet.

28

Other considerations

Security (1/2)

• Practice good security from Day 1. I have seen lots of posts about people’s bikes getting stolen because they used a weak lock that they “had been meaning to upgrade.” Lock your bike securely as soon as you have it.
• Buy high-quality locks only, from known brands like Kryptonite, Hiplok, Altor, Litelok, Abus.¹ Do not use a cable lock as your primary lock. Ideally, buy an angle-grinder resistant lock like the Skunklock Carbon, Hiplok D1000/DX1000, Litelok X1/X3, Squire D16, or Abus Super Granit Extreme 2500
• The most secure approach to locking your bike is to use an angle-grinder resistant lock; or, barring that, two different kinds of locks, like a U-lock plus a chain or folding lock. My simplest recommendation would be to get a Skunklock Carbon, and if you want additional security pair with a Blackstone alarmed chain lock.
• Register your bike for free at BikeIndex & Project 529, with plenty of photos as soon as you have it. Keep your listings updated with distinguishing features.
• Consider theft insurance from a company like Velosurance for additional peace of mind. Homeowners’/renters’ insurance may provide some limited coverage in some situations, but the limitations can be significant.

¹ Note that Abus is owned by an extremely conservative family with some… outdated views about how the world around them should work

29

Other considerations

Security (2/2)

• Lock your bike up in highly-visible, high-traffic areas
• Never leave your bike unattended outside overnight! No lock is safe if a thief has all night to cut through it. If you have to store your bike outside, an ebike may not be right for you.
• Lock your bike properly (lock the frame plus ideally the back wheel). Don’t lock it in a way that it can easily be lifted off whatever it is attached to
• Consider bringing your battery with you if locking your bike in a high-risk situation for an extended period
• If your front wheel has a quick-release spoke to allow for easy removal, replace it with a security spoke or make sure to lock it when you lock up your bike

30

Other considerations

Maintenance

• If you haven’t ridden a bike in a while, bike ownership is not as set-it-and-forget-it as a car
• At a minimum, expect that you will:
• Check your tire pressure roughly once a week and fill it up as needed
• Clean and lube your chain every month or two
• Replace your brake pads periodically (my pads last about 250-300 miles, which is very low, but that’s what happens on an e-bike in stop and go urban traffic while hauling a toddler around. You might get 1000+ miles out of your pads.)
• Periodically check and tighten key bolts throughout your bike
• Have your bike professionally tuned up at least twice a year
• Get flat tires periodically that need to be patched or replaced

31

Other considerations

Practice good battery care

• E-bike batteries can degrade and need to be replaced quickly, or, worse, catch fire and explode, if they aren’t treated with care, and especially if they aren’t high-quality, UL-certified batteries
• Best practices for your e-bike battery:
• Do not leave it on the charger for extended periods of time; this can cause a fire. Try to be diligent about taking it off the charger when it’s full, or try using an outlet timer.
• Do not charge your battery when the battery is very hot or very cold. If you’re coming in from a long winter ride, let the battery come up to room temperature before plugging it in.
• Do not ride it all the way down to 0%
• Store it indoors, avoid storing it outside in extreme heat or cold.
• If the bike isn’t going to be used for an extended period of time (say a week) try to keep the battery in the ~50-80% range
• Be careful not to drop your battery. If your battery is visibly dented or damaged, it is not safe to use.

32

Other considerations

Appendix

33

Appendix - Some specific personal impressions & experiences about particular brands and bikes

• These are my impressions only, from owning some bikes, trying others, reading reviews, reading ownership experiences, etc. I’m not a professional reviewer, so my experiences are limited, I don’t have exposure to every brand out there. But I’ll share some of the strongest impressions I have.
• The bike I’d most recommend under $1,000 is the Lectric XP Lite; for at or around $1,000, I’d look at the Lectric XPress and Aventon Soltera. None of these are amazing bikes with top of the line specs or components, but are offered by companies with good track records, warranties, and support. I would not feel comfortable recommending any less expensive bike from less-established online brands to prospective buyers.

34

Appendix - Some specific personal impressions & experiences about particular brands and bikes

• Aventon is my most recommended of the mid-range brands.* Name-brand components throughout, almost all their bikes have torque sensors, minimal proprietary parts. Aventon has upped their standard warranty to 2 years and have the largest dealer network of any of the DTC brands.
• The best-value entry point into higher-end e-bike features come from the VVolt Centauri SE, Ride1Up Prodigy V2 and the Priority Current. These bikes have belt drives and internally-geared hubs for <$3,000 (although they are DTC brands). Note that the Current sticker price is over $3,000 but buying through Costco brings the price down well below that to ~$2,600.

35

* Prior versions of this guide also recommended Surface604, which has many of the same virtues as Aventon. However, as of early 2024, I think that even though their bikes are quite good, their pricing is too far out of line with their competitors.

Appendix - Some specific personal impressions & experiences about particular brands and bikes

• If I had to choose one ebike brand to recommend for most people without any reservations, it’s Tern.
• These are the bikes that are about as close to Buy It For Life as you will get in this market.
• They use Bosch motors (which are the gold standard for reliability and long-term support), and standard and replaceable components throughout
• Their model lineup is small and very stable, because they pick a few designs that work and stick with them for many years
• The bikes are over-engineered and rigorously stress-tested to hold up over time
• They hold their value better than pretty much any other brand
• They are ubiquitous and well-known and well-supported at most bike shops
• They have a huge community of owners who can help identify problems and solutions
• Best-in-class ecosystem of accessories

36

Appendix - Some lighter weight (~40 lb or less) e-bikes

• If weight is important to you and you want something that is very simple and lightweight (without spending $5,000+ on a high-end electric road bike), consider:
• Higher end / most reputable:
• Specialized Turbo Vado SL line (SL stands for superlight)
• Momentum Voya E+
• Others:
• Cannondale Compact Neo
• Propella
• Ride1Up Roadster, Ride1Up CF Racer 1
• Tenways CGO600 / CGO600 Pro
• Velotric T1
• Luna Fixed Stealth
• Superhuman Babymaker, Photon, Shapeshifter
• Detroit Bikes Electric
• Note - Some of these bikes are “stealthy,” which means they don’t look obviously like ebikes (which is cool!) but also means the batteries may not be easily removable; something to consider if it’s not easy for you to charge in your storage location.

37

*The Aventon Soltera 1 was 41 lbs, but the Soltera 2 is heavier, 46 lbs

Appendix - DC e-bike retailers

For my fellow Washington, DC riders, here is a list of ebike stores where you can try and buy many brands of bike (note - actual inventory can vary greatly):

• REI, 201 M St NE (Near NoMa-Gallaudet Metro) - (Brands: REI Co-Op, Cannondale, Tern, Electra, Benno )
• Conte's Bikes (3 locations: Navy Yard 1331 4th St SE, Logan Circle 1412 Q St NW, & Cathedral Heights 3410 Wisconsin Ave NW) - can order in Beeline Connect Brands
• Big Wheel Bikes, 1034 33rd St NW (Marin, Linus, Bianchi)
• Daily Rider, 600 H St NE (Brands: Gazelle, Tern, Marin, Surly & can order in ebikes from Philadelphia distributor BikeCo LLC brands including Breezer, and Fuji)
• Bicycle Space, 1512 Okie St NE (Brands: Linus, Brompton, Cannondale, Aventon)
• Trek Bicycle Georgetown, 3411 M St NW (Brands: Trek, Electra)
• Bicycle Pro Shop, 3403 M St NW (Brands: Specialized, Cannondale, & Giant/Liv/Momentum)
• District Cycle Works, sells Konas, 2603 P St NW, Washington, DC 20007

38

Credit - this list shamelessly stolen from /u/17mph18a and /u/SomeLikeItRaw on reddit