Build 8 - ToC

​

g

​

1. Garage Door Opener
2. Cabinets
3. Cabinets BOM
4. Rapid Build Method
5. Touchup
6. Doorknobs
7. PV Grounds
8. Outdoor Photo Prep
9. Flooring

Module Map

Sewer Correction - Day 3

​

g

Learnings

• Yesterday uncovered a break in the tee going to a vertical drop to city sewer.
• There is a dip in the line ~1.5”
• This must be corrected
• About 40 gallons of sewage over 80 feet
• S

Did not see joint due to submerged camera (cameara 1” from bottom)

Shot taken 66’ from exit (max of scope)

Makes sense - last segment pushed down and cantilevered last joint up

Lift 1” here

(58’ from end)

Sewer Correction - Day 2

​

g

Learnings

• City 8” sewer scoped. No collapse of plumbing present.
• Decision: reinstall above the failed sewer, using Drop 2, which is only 2’ below surface and well marked.
• 1’ bucket gets clogged in moist soil. It rained heavy 3 days ago, and was cool
• Got a 2’ bucket rental.
• Initial strategy was to dig to each side. But that means effectively 3x the digging - 1 per side, and 1 above. Significant slowdown would occur as 2 water pipes cross right under and to the side. To eliminate risk, go at least 12” above. Depth is significant, with about 5’ deep at house, though depth is lower running to the sewer after the house pad.

Procedure Discussion:

• Clear off the drop at the house
• Dig above existing line.
• Dig flat. Do rough grading,
• Stabilize with rock. First do a flat rough pass. If 100’, that is 24” total drop. Should we minimize closer to ⅛” rather than ¼”? No. The bigger part is >10% sag over long distance, meaning pipe has standing water, velocity drops, solids can start settling.
• Use small rock fines for setting final grade. Use clean gravel that flows easily

Procedure:

• Dig, with proper rough descent on first pass. Check every 10'. Check final grade so it's +/- 4" AT ENDS, and +/-2 in process. Logic: 6” of gravel will enable full grade set later with 2” min and 8” max fill - which would be ok for undisturbed soilCompact with back of bucket . Then fill in 6" of crusher fine gravel. ENDS need to be within +/- 4". Level this more precisely, for 1/4" per foot. Then install pipe onto leveled trench. Check initial level. Make fine adjustments. Make bell holes, and glue. After all is glued, check final slope. Now bury the sides. Scope final grade - verify no water pools anywhere. Final bury in 2' lifts.

Calculations

• 30’/ton - For 2’ trench, each ton covers about 30’ of trench at 4” rock depth
• $133 pipe/100 ft. Belled - same price. SDR35 - $180
• D3034 (SDR35 vs D2729)

Sewer Correction - Strategy

​

g

Prep

• Determine sewer fill level. If full, drain by drilling a hole in the drop elbow near final sewer drop, and sewer-scope the system. If sewer scope shows intact pipes, then it was settling. The question is: settling where?
• Check for visible block from manhole side - 27 feet in. Stick in a ½” or 1” water line, see if we hit a complete block at 27’. That means the sewer pipe plain collapsed. In which case, Drop 2 can be used.
• Determine shutoff points for city water, have key available. Next to manhole, across street.

Approach 1: Suspected frost heave.

• Dig down the drop after cleanout next to house.
• Expectation - no breakage or movemen there. We expect that pipe settled somewhere else, and that frost heave did not move the pipes.
• Expectation 1 - if frost heave was present, pipe cracked and clogged.
• Expectation 2 - if frost heave was present, movement of at least 2 inches messed up the slope.
• Solution: replace pipes, add insulation around drop to prevent this from happening again.

Approach 2: Suspected cave-in at sewer connection.

• First, check if the sewer pipe clogged by inserting a ½” or 1” pipe.
• Result: if clogged, need to redo the connection completely. Could it still be a problem of settling elsewhere? Possible, but not likely. For this reason, it appears sewer connection cave-in could be the ultimate cause.
• Uncover drop by going down from Drop 2 location marker - which should be around 12” from ground surface. Use metal detector to determine wire if needed. Follow wire from Drop 2 to main drop.
• Uncover 6’ from drop to house. If drop is perfect (¼”) over this distance, there is no reason to suspect fault dear drop.
• Verify there is no problem. Drill a 1” hole in the drop elbow. If there is no sewage in elbow, the problem is not here.

Sewer Correction - Location Details

​

g

Water veers away from downturn of sewer, therefore, it’s safe to dig sewer drop right next to the drop

Markings:

• ¼” per foot drop for 4” pipe is good (here is exactly 1” drop over 4’ level, back spacer being ½” and leading spacer being 1.5”)
• Straight line from house to city sewer line is 76’
• Right after corner t-post, slight veer. Still hit a secret water line.
• Sewer depth is 9’ at manhole. Drops from there.
• If digging full length, there are 2 water crossing locations
• 143” from boundary stake
• Location in line with sign - and mid way between house window and house corner across the street
• 41’ from drop near house? Or is this the second water?
• The far parallel one was in the way so i dug away from it. Turn picture 1. Turn picture 2.
• Marking tape - left hand side of trench looking toward house, about 18” down
• 2nd sewer drop has locating wire and locating PVC 15” tall above the top of the sewer drop.
• Location - with respect to manhole
• Location of drop - 30’ from sewer
• Main Sewer Drop - 27’5” from manhole
• Sewer drop can be located from second drop - wire connects the two
• 81’2” from sewer drop near house

Strategy:

• Theory 1: frost heave busted pipes near house. Dig near house to determine any breakage. Logic: gravel base appears proper in pix, why would it settle anywhere else?
• Theory 2: Area around sewer drop settled. Dig at sewer drop, determine settling by slope of pipe, which is exactly ¼” per foot. Logic: near drop, there is 6’ of distance between undisturbed soil + gravel and actual drop.

Tools:

1. Tape - 100’
2. Poker
3. Drill
4. 1” drill bit
5. ¼” drill bit
6. Shovel
7. Pick
8. Water shutoff tool

Note 20’veer away from water line which is just to the right of sewer, 20’ until drop.

Cabinets BOM

​

Front View

​

Side View

​

g

23 white outside

Cleaning Hardware

​

g

• Use baking soda. Other fluids can be used - but hot water and baking soda works.
• Or, even plain hot water works. Hot water + steel wool.
• ​

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GeOUAOjJPw

Bondo

​

g

• Paste + hardener
• Thin line of hardener across wad of paste - like this cut
• Use a spreader

https://youtu.be/mITjIB9IQfU?t=142

Concrete Sealer

​

g

2”

• Instructions
• Breathability is a key advantage: Water-based sealers are often preferred because they allow moisture to escape, unlike some solvent-based sealers that can trap moisture.
• 250 sf coverage. Dry 2-4 hr, reapply as little as 2 hr, 2 coats recommended for this one
• Light traffic - 24 hr. Heavy traffic - 3-4 days
• Use long roller for comfort. Can use low p sprayer.

• We got water base satin clear

Floor Polyurethane

​

g

2”

• About brushes
• For stained wood, use paper bag to sand
• Don’t use Foam Brush. Use good bristle brush.

1. Sand
2. Use brush
3. Multiple thin coats
4. Sand between coats.
5. Says 500 sq ft cover, 4 coats minimum

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/hNsR1eX-fUw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=77nsY4EbVpg

Double Sink Vanity

​

g

Notes:

• In reality, the Ideal design (initial design) probably works
• Actual Attempt comes short by a few inches.

Conclusions:

1. Yet another case for 3D printing for on-demand production

Double Fixture Tee. Not a double sanitary tee. 2” to 1.5”

2-1.5”

2”

2”

Ideal

Cap

2”

2”

Actual Attempt

Cap

2”

2”

Correction 2

Cap

1.5”

Next Iteration

2”

2”

Cap

1.5”

1.5”

1.5”

1.5”

1.5”

2”

2”

Correction 1

Cap

1.5”

1.5”

Double Outlet Covers

​

Screw into box

​

Screw into device

g

• One hole for outlet, other blank
• Understand screw pattern first
• Select alternatives:
1. Double with One blank.
2. Blank wall plate insert. 10 pack.
3. Add second device.
4. Coverup Cover Plate
5. Coverup Device Plate

Cover-up Cover Plate. But only works for coverup of non- decorator because decorator doesn’t have a mid hole. Or - use adapter to cover non-decorator with decorator.

Blank Insert.

Amazon

Coverup device for covering non-decora

In stock.

Toilet Installation

​

g

• Toilet flange theory says toilet ring is installed on top of finished floor. If not, an extension needs to be used.
• Toilets come with wax seals. Just use that. But it’s a pain for maintenance - they make rubber (waxless) toilet seals.
• Once location is set - install toilet ring Oriented such that the location of the 2 side bolt heads is on the left and right side.
• Toilet itself should have a 0.5-0.75” recess on the bottom ceramic.

This is a ‘Slab Flange’ - different than second floor design.�Should fit inside ‘3x4 flange’. But - second floor design seems like it also needs a 3.5” ‘slab flange

3x4 Flange on Floor 1 -

3.5” ID fits over 3” pipe, 4” OD fits inside 4” pipe

4.5”

4”

Floor 1 Slab Flange

Floor 2 - 4” closet bend houses 4”

4” coupler

4.5” OD x 4” ID spigot

4” ID of flange spigot should fit a 4” seal, which is designed to go inside 4” pipe

Genie Door Opener Programming

​

g

​

• Official instructions for Genie 1 hp Belt Garage Opener model 7055-TPV at Menards
• Full Manual
• Press button until blue.
• Comment says there is a 30 second timeout, so need to work quick.
• How to reset genie door open to start programming again
• UL 325 has door reverse upon pushing button again
• P19 - BBU installation
• Programming - p7 - has 3 parts.
• Travel limits
• Force control
• Remote control (outside of wall unit)

Programming

1. See wiki
2. 30 second timeout so move to set down limit by pressing down.

Genie Door Opener Programming

​

g

Programming Limits

• Hit the down button to program down. Note: you don’t enter programming mode by hitting ‘program’
• Follow procedure here.
• Do same for the upper limit.

Programming Force

1. Cycle the door by pressing the button from full open to full close.
2. Cycle the door from full close to full open. This sets the force limits to factory setting.

Reversal test

1. Put a 2x4 on the floor at the bottom.
2. Test the door by closing.
3. Door will reverse after hitting the board
4. Remove board and close again to clear fault

Force Adjustment

1. See p.15
2. Essentially - identical procedure to limit setting, except use both buttons to enter set mode. See Force Settings Chart to the right.

​

​

Instructions

Garage Door Springs

g

Concept:

1. Attach to the vertical dropdown in rear.

g

Slotted drop

Rail

Actual:

• A 3-hole clip, tricky to use - fixes ⅛” wire without any clamp mechanism. This attaches to S-hook.

Washer Closet Shelves

g

Washer Shelves:

• Cut 1.5” from existing edges of boards on table saw.
• Mount 1.5” support strips on wall (3 sides) with brad nails at 45 degree downward angle to maximize penetration through beadboard. Can go direct if on stud.
1. Brad nail shear strength is 120 lb, so take 12 lb as a working limit. Plenty of hold, limit will be substrate you are nailing into.
• After shelf is attached on 3 sides, add the front reinforcement.
• Header reinforcement is above, out of way of the bifold door.
• Bottom shelf clears the washer water supply and power outlet.
• Space second shelf half way up.
• Move washer forward enough so that its dials are not hidden by first shelf.

5

3

Stop at 1x3 trim

Use support strips everywhere, on edge.

Reinforce header. Track attaches to header. Screw header reinforcement from top and bottom (red arrows).

Notch out corners as trim at back interferes

3

Materials:

[1] 16” wide board (mid)

[2] 24”

[1] ~12” wide

[1] ~14” wide

Notch out vertical trim so shelf is supported.

Reinforcement on top - cleaner look? Or bottom?

Bifold Doors

g

Install:

• Move slats if they shifted so that unpainted parts are hidden
• Peel door wrapping, clean any dirt from doors. Open hardware bag.
• Pivot on right for laundry based on flow considerations of carrying a basket to the laundry

​

1

1

1

Insert 3 pivots

Fasten track to header with 1+” screws

2

3

Attach jamb bracket to wall and floor

4

Mount door: insert in top track, then sit bottom pivot in jamb bracket

5

Adjust door height by turning threaded part

6

Adjust horizontally by moving pivot side to side in jamb bracket

7

Mount door knob in center of guide door about 36” off floor.

Stair Handrail

g

Design:

• IRC - R311.7.8. No mention of hardware spacing, outside of max post spacing of 6’. Hearsay states 3’-4’.
• See the CAD
• 32-34” high from nose of tread. This one says 34 to 38. 36 to 38.
• 1.5” space between the wall and railing. Return required to prevent snatching of clothes..

Procedure:

1. ~31” for bottom screw hole on hardware. Verify so top is 34-38”. Notes: __________________________________
2. Subtract height of railing and height of hardware to the lower screw to determine vertical location of screw hole
3. Use baby powder in chalk line to mark wall line, or use string with no chalk (if painted already).
4. Drill holes, mount hardware vertically (bracket will provide angle later).
5. Measure distance to 5” longer than the first/last step. Must extend longer than stair run, but IRC doesn’t seem to mention it.
6. Cut off a return by cutting at 45 degrees. Attach return with nails or screws and glue. Measure 1.5” to short side.
7. Use brackets to mount railing to hardware. Nail return into wall.
8. QC: 3 points: length, height, and distance from wall.

1

Refrigerator Closet Shelves

g

Fridge Shelves:

• Use 2 shelf levels, using 2 shelves of 12” and 16” width.
• Use wide shelf in back so it has extra support point on back wall.
• Stain.
• Cut to width (about 3”). Use tape or track saw to not chip edges.
• Use straight brackets with ¾” screws (just short enough to not poke out). Note straight bracket has 2 sides, use the countersunk side. Use 2 straight brackets to connect 2 shelves.
• Use 4 screw brackets with ½” screws. 2 per edge, one at back - 5 total for rear shelf and 4 total for front shelf on the fridge.
• Measure height so first shelf is 72.25” - to fit 6’ fridges.
• Notch out for closet trim
• Can use stair measurement jig to measure width of shelves. Cut down shelves to correct width.
• Top shelf here needs double brackets, not single.

4

5

3

Shelves - Fridge

Fridge Nook CAD

g

Procedure:

​

• Match shelves.
• Mark locations on nook - vertical height and bracket location
• Mount shelves using steel brackets + deck screws + ¾” screws.

1

Can’t have space behind shelf - push shelf back

Full size fridge is 66”- 72” high

Shelves - Laundry

Laundry CAD

g

Procedure:

• Fit to folding door. 81” is the height of door, with the shelf capping door.
• Mark locations on nooks - vertical height and bracket location
• Mount shelves using steel brackets + deck screws + ¾” screws.

1

RLF Design

g

Garage doors

Heat Pump Prep - Indoor Unit

White wire to white terminal on powerhead, and W terminal on wired opener.

​

​

Run wires + staple to wall. Striped wires to terminal 1, white to term. 2. Terminal 3-4 is for the wired opener.

​

​

Door Opener - Finishing

Attach door bracket to reinforcement bracket with pin at level of top door roller.

Pin

Predrill holes using ⅛” bit, using door bracket as template.

Connect with self-tapping screws, not bolts.

Mount photocells 5-6” up from floor, facing each other

​

Attach arm to door bracket like a check mark. Angle about 20-30 degrees. Arm consists of two pieces.

​

Attach emergency release: attach cord to handle on one end and release on the other. Place release 16” from door.

​

Lift door to lock turnbuckle into carriage head assembly.

​

Plug in motor and program

​

LEDs light on photocells.

Light flashes.

Hold down button until solid light. Then move down until all way down. Adjust with up button if needed to set better limit. Then press program button. You’re done. Now do the up direction.

8

7

g

1

2

3

1a

1b

4

5

6

9

10

Door Opener - Reinforcement Bracket

g

Procedure:

• Remove screw from L angle on top of door at the center
• Slide bracket under where the screw was located
• Screw with 2 #14x5/8” sheet metal screws
• Re-screw the top of bracket
• Attach opener arm using clevis pin.

1

2

3

4

5

Procedure

Door Opener

g

Procedure:

• Attach header bracket 2.5” above highest point of door travel.
• Attach rail of powerhead to bracket, with powerhead lifted on a ladder or such.
• Center and mount powerhead with strap 112” behind the front wall.
• Need a rail to attach powerhead straps to, 1 on each side.

1

2

Rail

Rail

Laser up to rails, and mark ground at rails to find exact halfway point. Laser up from halfway point to set

Halfway point

1

2

Door Opener

Do this on the ground, then mount onto the mount point 2.5” above highest door travel.

g

Procedure:

1. Insert pulley, stop bolt, and carriage assembly onto last rail section
2. Attach 4 sections
3. Attach strap and sprocket to last section, wind belt around
4. Thread belt through, close belt and tighten using turnbuckle. Once tensioned so it’s ¼” from bottom, lock the turnbuckle.
5. Attach to power head with 4 screws.
6. Attach belt guard.

1

2

3

4

5

6

Door Opener

g

Procedure:

• ​

5

Door Opener

g

Procedure:

• ​

5

Install Door Handles in Bottom and 2nd Sections

g

Procedure:

• Drill two ½” holes for each handle. Do this in bottom section and second section from bottom. Handles are outside.

Also:

Extend angle at upper rail - to match joist hang.

5

Install Expansion Springs

g

Procedure:

• Assemble springs (1).
• Mount second sheave 4” from wall on the angle (2).
• Attach eyebolt to hanger (3).
• Start lifting door (4). Door is about 200 lb. Check alignment of upper track. If all ok, lift door up fully and lock with C-clamps to prevent down-fall.
• Attach cable to bottom of door, thread through door sheave, then spring sheave. Attach to 3-hole clip (5)
• S hook like (6)
• Now for tension. Attach safety cable through spring as in (7). Adjust tension in 3 ways - move eyebolt up/down, adjusting cable in 3-hole clip, or moving s-hook to a different hole. _______________

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

Square Horizontal Track

a

b

c

c

b’

a’

g

Concept:

• Measure a to begin process of triangulation.
• Measure B, the distance between the wall where angle bracket is attached, and the very end of the horizontal track. Horizontal track is suspended from ceiling or propped with ladder etc.
• Calculate the square root of a²+b² to obtain c_calc.
• Mesure c and set c=c_calc to determine the angle of b.
1. Use a tape measure to determine c from second flag bracket to end of former horizontal track. That will be the square location of the horizontal track. Attach the horizontal track hanger to ceiling and rail with one screw.
• Repeat for b’, the second horizontal track. Fix hanger as above.
• Once b and b’ are determined, verify that a = a’, ie, that the parallel distance between the two rails remains constant as the door is raised to the highest point.
• Re-measure both diagonals to verify that they are within ½” of each other. A and a’ must also be within ½” of each other.
• QC: PARALLEL IS CRITICAL. IF THE rails diverge, the door can fall out of the rails and crash to the floor. If the rails converge, the door will jam.
• QC: The rail hanger mount must be perpendicular to the rail for the rails not do wobble sideways.
• QC: Take a picture of tape measure at both diagonals. Do this with one person - using a smart attachment point at flag bracket. Use open source quality control software to manage this in production.

1. Determine correct angle of b first - use math.
2. Then determine angle of b’.
3. Verify by confirming a=a’.

c_calc =

Garage Door Finish - Upper Rails + Springs

5

g

• Door Installation work doc - 3 pages in Build Doc 3.
• Model 5ST Instructions.

Next steps: Upper rail, ceiling mount, springs.

• Upper rail and ceiling mount
• P.16 in manual
• Springs - p19 in manual. SAB does not say what position door is in while adjusting tension - up or down?

Steps:

1. Verify top of vertical tracks are even, measuring from the top as in (1)
2. QC: edge of door is ½” from track (2), and bottom of track is off the floor (½”) as in (3). Make sure track is not so high that rollers can fall out in bottom-most position.
3. Fasten flag bracket with 3 lag bolts for 2x material (4). Predrill 3/16” for 5/16” lags.
4. Lag bolt the vertical rails (5)
5. Fasten horizontal angle to horizontal track. Use 4 screws in mid holes (6), with heads inside track.
6. Attach curved track to vertical track (7) with [2] ¼”x ½” track bolts, head inside track. Attach horizontal angle to top of flag bracket with one ⅜”

Bolt (8), which will be removed later.

• Attach track hanger, one ⅜” bolt at each joint, 4 total.

1

1

2

3

4

6

7

8

9

Garage Door Mounting

​

g

• Door Installation work doc. Model 5ST Instructions.
• Door reinforcement bracket. Use it.
• Springs - p19 in manual. SAB does not say what position door is in while adjusting tension - up or down?
• Mount bracket from Menards. Bracket Installation instructions
• Door Opener
• Instructions

Top Stair Detail

​

Actual

​

6

g

1

4

• Top nosing: 3.5”. Max nosing overhang is 1.5”
• Last riser - there is a double spacer, each ¾”

Stair Detailed Instructions

​

6

g

​

• Landing: Use jig to measure distance. Cut 1x8 to size. 1x8 is prestained. Use glue. Use 2” brad nails, 2 brad nails per framing member for 8 brads total as shown in 2. To bind tight to existing stained box frame, may use clamps as in 3. Start at East end, work West. last piece is cut down, first riser goes above last horizontal landing piece, not behind it.
• First Riser: takes time, as need to multitool a notch in the existing fluted trim (4) on RHS. Measure, cut, and install. Use glue to attach to stair stringers. Use 2 2” brad nails per stringer, for 6 brads total. From back predrill and use 2” deck screws into the landing (5), 2 per stringer cavity for a total of 4 deck screws.
• First Tread: Mark around fluted trim (6), cut out for first tread. Make sure that the second riser goes behind the first tread. To do this, use a spacer to mark the cutout (7). Use ⅛” spacers to level the treads (8) - vinyl flooring cuts are good for this. Use glue adhesive for treads, with a bead above stringers and above first riser. Then nail down using 7 finish nails (16 ga or 15 ga) (9). Use 3 more nails (green) if you are using spacers, as glue does not work on the spacers.
• Continue. To the second riser (10). Predrill and deck screw with 2.5” deck screws from back of 2nd riser into the first tread.

1

2

3

4

5

7

8

9

10

Stair tread gauge

​

1x4 material

​

Risers

¼” elongated hole 4” long

1x8 material

​

1x8 material

​

41”

​

8”

​

6”

​

36” long

​

8”

​

36” long

​

3”

​

As-built. Also works for refrigerator shelves but not laundry shelves. Design is 30% more efficient than one above - requires 2 points of adjustment and not 3, Other users need to verify.

g

Treads and Risers

Start at bottom, to screw through back of riser into the back edge of tread. This can be done only by leaving tread above open.

​

2x4

​

1. Predrill.Glue on back of tread. Four screws.
2. ​

3 deg bevel on riser top to put adhesive into

Stair tread gauge

Note first riser is cut down, and landing slips under for cleaner finish.

​

Start with riser

Glue and Brad nail 3-2-2 brads

Drill through back of riser into tread below

Glue on tread

​

Finish nail 1 on 3 backs, and 4 more into the top of the last riser.

​

g

Risers:

1. Brad nail bottom-mid-top of risers at left, then 2 into mid stringer and 2 into right stringer. While using glue on stringers.
2. Predrill risers from back where you can screw in to the back of each riser into tread. Use 4 screws.

Treads:

• Apply glue to back edge of tread and on the stringers to attach tread.
• Finish nails: 1 left, 1 right, one mid, and 3-4 more into the front of tread into top of riser
• Screw 4 of 2”screws from back into predrilled holes

1

2

3

4

5

Open Source Mini Hand Planer

​

g

​

• Take a 2x4, 6” long
• Cut at angle
• Cut to width
• Attach blade

Complex lay vid by guy who claimed much info was missing in various videos.

Hallway Flooring Procedure

​

g

​

• Marking: Draw lines for the divider strip. Use full flooring width starting at divider. Verify that las strip of hallway does not involve a sliver. It so happens the fit is exact for 6 strips. Parallel work can go on for 2 other bedrooms, bathrooms, and bottom floor.
• Strategy: Number one priority is to establish the starting row and fix it securely (predrill + screwdown at hidden edge) so it doesn’t move. Then attach One Full Row at a Time - do not do piece by piece. For working 1 full row at a time, the first row must be fixed.
• Start: Do Bedroom 1 door fit. Do not attempt to mark flooring for both doors (Bedroom 1 + 2) at the same, as this is too complicated and prone to rework. Divide and conquer here. Attach flooring around Door 1. Work leftwards from wall, with tongue (darker short lip) towards wall and groove (lighter long lip) to you
• Door 2: Mark, cut, stabilize, and attach flooring for Bedroom 2. To stabilize, use another panel to connect to Plank 1 (at Bedroom 1) to guarantee perfect alignment.
• Remaining Cuts Left: Use an additional plank connected to Plank 2 to figure out the width of Plank 3.
• Work the Alignment: continue using alignment planks, and removing them as additional permanent planks are added. Key is to snap alignment planks in and out readily, with no need to use a tapping block and hammer.
• Row 1 Complete: Keep working to the divider at Bedroom 3 until row 1 is complete. Fix this row with screws. Take off all the alignment
• Row 2: Work full row at a time. Lay out all of Row 2, using the Unlimited Full Row Laying Technique. Continue with full rows.

Plank 2

Plank 1

Door 1

Door 2

Plank 3

alignment

alignment

alignment

Plank 4

Complex lay vid by guy who claimed much info was missing in various videos.

Nosing Transition to Flooring at Top Landing

​

62” Long base trim in stairway

Subfloor starts 2” from pony wall trim.

Subfloor is cut back ¾” from face of joist

Nosing cut is 3.5” long

Nosing cantilever is 1-¼”, with 2 riser spacers at 1.5”

First tread is 1.5” from joist - there are 2 spacers as in pic 1

CAD shows top stringer tread at 10-¾”, and all others at 10”

Riser

All treads are uncut, at 11-¼”. Thee exposed face (not hidden by nosing) is always 10”

Top Landing. Nosing overhangs 1.25” on all treads including bottom and top landing. The top nosing must end at mid-joist of top landing, no longer. Otherwise subfloor would not be supported on joist.

Subfloor

Joist

Top Nosing

Multi-Trim

¾” Spacer

Installation. Make space half way from centerline or ⅜”, not ½” like they say.

Top Nosing

Pony wall trim

g

1

1

Bath Finalization Checklist

​

g

​

• Water source doubler
• Baseboard
• Light bulbs
• Back sink support
• Cabinet doors
• Toilet + wax seal

Module Map

4

Toilet

Sink ⅜” M-F Compression

2

$7

Was it dewalt nailer?

Vanity Installation Procedure

​

g

​

• Mark base footprint to install LVP flooring
• Lay strips of LVP as needed to space base of vanity properly
• Lay base
• Add cleat at the correct height
• Add side, connecting using 2corner brackets at bottom
• PUt front in place, connect temporarily with 1” pin nails or other temporary corner brackets
• Fit sink - make any adjustments
• When sink is adjusted properly, assemble vanity cabinet permanently
• Take off sink, mount faucet and drain.
• Apply silicone or other glue behind backsplash and to to sink base on 3 sides.
• Mount on vanity cabinet and let dry.
• Vanity overhangs not at all.

Module Map

4

Screw vs Plug vs glued Transition Strips

​

g

Plumbing

Hints

1. Plugged ones - vinyl ends farther from center of transition strip
2. If install rail, can replace with

Vinyl must be no more than 0.5” from center

Screw or glue. Screw must be countersunk.

Multitrim. Transition with plug mounts, can adjust between 2 surface heights

T-divider with snap track. Can also adjust for 2 heights?

Speedy Install of LVP

​

Do ⅓ and ⅔ cuts up front, or use last cutoff as start

​

Half

16” 8” 24”

Simplest way - run a row, use last piece cut as start. But need to test if next row works out. If not, needs to adjust

Can’t see repeat of pattern if stagger 6 rows. 4 minimum. Precut only if needed. Minimum cut end and stagger is 6”. 2” stagger minimum.

​

Sliver not ok

Cut multiple pieces at a time. Do a ½, ⅓, ⅔.

​

Ergonomics: Shears closeby. Carry hammer, block, puller, pen by ear. Blower on tool belt.

​

No, bitch, do entire row at a time!

​

g

1

2

3

4

Bathroom Vinyl Installation

​

g

Plumbing

Hints

• Toilet - flange on floor - this Fernco seal makes seal if floor is above flange. Flange is designed to go above finished floor. Bottom of toilet is inset so flange can be above floor. Use ¼” tapcons into concrete.
• Toilet must pinch vinyl floor. There is no other way to do it. Vinyl is cut around flange.
• Drill for flange first. Otherwise, going through vinyl afterwards is too messy - need to suck up concrete dust or cut out around flange holes. Best to fit and drill, remove, then install after floor is installed. Or, just cut out around the whole flange. Preferred- due to difficulty of predrilling and then refitting - because then have to screw through vinyl again. Seal makes up for height up to ¾”. Floor remains pinched by toiled but not screwed down at flange.
• Take off tub edge from vinyl to give more expansion room - use shear.
• Pinch vinyl under floor. Leave full strip on long side, as can’t reuse cut end anyway - or cut and use as spacer.
• Transition strip - need spring birch color. French oak is close
• what about the rail? It’s called LVP molding track.
• Endcap at door?
• Molding uses plugs, not rail.
• Transition molding needs ⅛”- ¼” less LVP for gap cf
• SDS - SDS + SDS+ is the same diameter, SDS Max is 18 mm

End cap

Stair transition, door termination

Floor patch

PVC Quarter Round

Vinyl seam sealer

Caulk strip

Gorilla clear for LVP

Silicone for sink (any) or kitchen sink (clear). Undermount nozzle.

3/16” bit

SDS Max. HF.

Mirror rail

Vinyl Flooring in tight Spaces

​

g

Plumbing

Hints

• Impossible corner - do a cut and glue it -
• Floor patch - if not level
• No transition strips to closet. Must forward plan to get seem right at door frame
• Use knee pads. Multitool is used for cutting.
• Scale up in trim.
• Transitions - t-molding between rooms. How to plan?
• In worst case, need to shave with planer and glue

More

• Pry bar to lock in
• Use a joint in doorways from Vinyl University
• Cut notches with a razor blade
• Belt sand raised joints
• Plan. See blog for more detes.
• Transition between rooms in concrete
• Install endcaps to outside doors. Vinyl flooring end cap.
• Save cut ends against left or right wall.
• Attach 3 rows together, then lock. RenoVisionDIY long video.
• Transition strip into concrete - deck screws into concrete
• Don’t use any transitions at all
• Use planer for high spots
• Henry Feather Finish leveler
• Painter’s tape and hot glue trick (or double sided tape?)
• Whole house floor seamless -
• See MSI on transition. Laminate stair treads are an option
• Transition strip at every door? Only claims are on jobs with no transition at doors - sez one large distributor.
• Do not use spacers. Screw down.
• You can backfill in tight spots - put a difficult one in place first, then do previous one.
• Cut lip off and glue if needed. Use Clear Gorilla Glue, not original gorilla glue. Wood glue does not work on LVP.
• Use stick-on rubber quarter round next to tub. Or PVC trim + silicone.
• For a small room, you can go tight to an edge if other edge can accommodate expansion.
• Silicone next to tub for water protection.
• Can just silicone caulk next to tub using masking tape. Can use Alex Caulk as well. Or flexible splash guard with double sided tape + silicone.

Pull bar

End cap

Vinyl trim

Spacers HD

Tapping block

Spacers

From the manufacturer instructions. Buy.

1. Grout lines larger than 1/16” must be filled in
2. Flatness of floor - ⅛” for 6’
3. Suggests t-molding in doorways
4. Ends longer than 8”
5. Joint offsets at least 10”
6. Use moisture barrier on concrete.

Stair transition, door termination

Floor patch

Floor patch

PVC Quarter Round

Vinyl seam sealer

Caulk strip

Gorilla clear for LVP

Silicone for sink (any) or kitchen sink (clear). Undermount nozzle.

Screw vs Plug vs glued Transition Strips

​

g

Plumbing

Hints

• Plugged ones - vinyl ends farther from center of transition strip
• If install rail, can replace with

Vinyl must be no more than 0.5” from center

Screw or glue. Screw must be countersunk.

Multitrim. Transition with plug mounts, can adjust between 2 surface heights

T-divider with snap track. Can also adjust for 2 heights?

Bathroom Vinyl Installation

​

g

Plumbing

Hints

• Toilet - flange on floor - this Fernco seal makes seal if floor is above flange. Flange is designed to go above finished floor. Bottom of toilet is inset so flange can be above floor. Use ¼” tapcons into concrete.
• Toilet must pinch vinyl floor. There is no other way to do it. Vinyl is cut around flange.
• Drill for flange first. Otherwise, going through vinyl afterwards is too messy - need to suck up concrete dust or cut out around flange holes. Best to fit and drill, remove, then install after floor is installed. Or, just cut out around the whole flange. Preferred- due to difficulty of predrilling and then refitting - because then have to screw through vinyl again. Seal makes up for height up to ¾”. Floor remains pinched by toiled but not screwed down at flange.
• Take off tub edge from vinyl to give more expansion room - use shear.
• Pinch vinyl under floor. Leave full strip on long side, as can’t reuse cut end anyway - or cut and use as spacer.
• Transition strip - need spring birch color. French oak is close
• what about the rail? It’s called LVP molding track.
• Endcap at door?
• Molding uses plugs, not rail.
• Transition molding needs ⅛”- ¼” less LVP for gap cf
• SDS - SDS + SDS+ is the same diameter, SDS Max is 18 mm

End cap

Stair transition, door termination

Floor patch

PVC Quarter Round

Vinyl seam sealer

Caulk strip

Gorilla clear for LVP

Silicone for sink (any) or kitchen sink (clear). Undermount nozzle.

3/16” bit

SDS Max. HF.

Mirror rail

Vinyl Flooring in tight Spaces

​

g

Plumbing

Hints

• Impossible corner - do a cut and glue it -
• Floor patch - if not level
• No transition strips to closet. Must forward plan to get seem right at door frame
• Use knee pads. Multitool is used for cutting.
• Scale up in trim.
• Transitions - t-molding between rooms. How to plan?
• In worst case, need to shave with planer and glue

More

• Pry bar to lock in
• Use a joint in doorways from Vinyl University
• Cut notches with a razor blade
• Belt sand raised joints
• Plan. See blog for more detes.
• Transition between rooms in concrete
• Install endcaps to outside doors. Vinyl flooring end cap.
• Save cut ends against left or right wall.
• Attach 3 rows together, then lock. RenoVisionDIY long video.
• Transition strip into concrete - deck screws into concrete
• Don’t use any transitions at all
• Use planer for high spots
• Henry Feather Finish leveler
• Painter’s tape and hot glue trick (or double sided tape?)
• Whole house floor seamless -
• See MSI on transition. Laminate stair treads are an option
• Transition strip at every door? Only claims are on jobs with no transition at doors - sez one large distributor.
• Do not use spacers. Screw down.
• You can backfill in tight spots - put a difficult one in place first, then do previous one.
• Cut lip off and glue if needed. Use Clear Gorilla Glue, not original gorilla glue. Wood glue does not work on LVP.
• Use stick-on rubber quarter round next to tub. Or PVC trim + silicone.
• For a small room, you can go tight to an edge if other edge can accommodate expansion.
• Silicone next to tub for water protection.
• Can just silicone caulk next to tub using masking tape. Can use Alex Caulk as well. Or flexible splash guard with double sided tape + silicone.

Pull bar

End cap

Vinyl trim

Spacers HD

Tapping block

Spacers

From the manufacturer instructions. Buy.

• Grout lines larger than 1/16” must be filled in
• Flatness of floor - ⅛” for 6’
• Suggests t-molding in doorways
• Ends longer than 8”
• Joint offsets at least 10”
• Use moisture barrier on concrete.

Stair transition, door termination

Floor patch

Floor patch

PVC Quarter Round

Vinyl seam sealer

Caulk strip

Gorilla clear for LVP

Silicone for sink (any) or kitchen sink (clear). Undermount nozzle.

Cabinet Prep: Mirror, Bath, Lights, Plumbing

​

CAD - bathcabinetbottom61.fcstd

​

​

g

Plumbing

Shower

• Take off masking paper
• Connect fan grate
• Reconnect shower head + tighten any loose fittings
• Test shower
• Test fan

Ceiling Light

1. Turn off power and Install ceiling light
2. Test light

Vanity Mirror

1. Mark location - 42”/44” (1st/2nd) high and between lights, horizontal orientation
2. QC height - 5” + 34” + 5” above vanity = 44” - even with top of electrical box. 42” on first floor.
3. Use provided hardware

Vanity Lights

1. Install
2. Test

Plumbing

1. Floor 2: Tee on floor 2. Drain is 10-⅜” from back wall. Drain is 7.5” below vanity surface (not top of backsplash). Drains are ~14” from edge.
2. Floor 1: Drain is about 24.5” from edge (half way), 10-⅜” from back wall

​

Flooring

1. ​

​

Cabinet

1. ​

​

Floor 2.

Vanity Dimensions. Buy. Bath BOM.

Mirror with clips. Top is screwed down. For multiple mirrors, use a rail.

Bath Cabinet 2 - Bottom

​

​

CAD - bathcabinetbottom61.fcstd

​

​

Bath Cabinet 2 - sides

​

​

CAD - bathcabinetsides61.fcstd. Same as for the 49” cabinet, plus middle support vertical.

​

​

31.75”

​

​

20.5”

​

​

g

Plumbing

Bath Cabinet 2 - Front Face

Vanity top hangs ½” over the right side of cabinet?

​

​

CAD - bathcabinetface61.fcstd

​

​

1x3 at bottom (not shown) just like on first floor vanity cabinet

​

​

33.25” vertical side

​

​

g

Plumbing

Bath Cabinet 1 - Base

​

​

Side

​

​

Oak veneer

​

​

24” edge glued stock

​

​

1x4 red oak not?

​

​

1x2 red oak

​

​

g

Plumbing

Bath Cabinet Cheatsheet

​

​

Base Tech Drawing

​

​

• Uses 24” edge glued stock
• Wax, don’t stain.
• Verify cabinet is 49”

Pin nails

Side Tech Drawing

​

​

• Uses 24” edge glued stock
• Stain later

g

• Base. Build the floor assembly consisting of edge glued pine and three runners underneath cut to a precise dimension. Sand and Wax.
• Side. Make edge glued side with precisely cut oak veneer pinned + glued. Add the on edge top trim which will make the height of the side equal to the front.
• Front. Take 6 oak pieces and assemble the front frame which is essentially a frame with a vertical in the middle of it. It is oad bearing down the middle. Continue with front, as in Vanity Build Guide
• Last part is 2x2 cleat on left side of vanity. This completes parts. Now assembly.
• Assemble. Put in the bottom, put in the side and put in the front and add the cleat on the left hand side connect all of them using corner brackets.
• Countertop. Attach the faucet to the countertop and then install the countertop with silicone
1. Countertop even with right edge, but away from back wall by ½”?

Plumbing

• Vanity Build Guide

Lights

​

​

​

1. 4 vanity lights. Cheatsheet
2. Bathroom 1 light channel lights
3. Bathroom 2 ceiling light
4. 2 stairway/hallway lights. Double on both sides, 4 lights total.
5. Bedroom 3
6. Bedroom 2
7. Bedroom 1
8. Kitchen light channel light
9. Main living room light channel - also fan?
10. Second living room light channel
11. Garage interior
12. Closet light

​

​

g

Plumbing

4

4

5

7

6

9

1

10

2

11

12

Finish Trim

​

g

Behind sink

1. Oak paneling - ¾” brad + glue

Backsplash

1. Use 3.5” white.
2. Use backing on south side and west side
1. Used ½ from quality (blue mark) pine
3. 3.25” - height of backsplash
4. Cut miter for running joints
5. Use return on south side, use
6. Use 45” return on east side

​

Front of Heater Cabinet

• TBD

Plumbing

5

6

Dishwasher Drain

​

g

About

• Amana manual. 12’ extension drain.
• Vid 1
• 12’

High Loop Drain Hose

1. Why is there a loop on side of machine? This is different than high loop. There is one to apparently keep hot water in?
2. About dishwasher air gap - depends on juristiction

Solution

• Extension is already included, peek inside dishwasher
• Do high loop behind sink

Plumbing

Not!

Yes!

Bosch ES8 - Draining

​

g

Blow heater out

• Prepare blowout assembly.
• Blow in the reverse direction because that works with gravity: blow in through the hot side
• The cold side drains. Crack open a cold faucet, such as cold on the tub.
• Forced air will save minutes upon blowing out, but still leaves the 1.5 quarts at the bottom?
• Might as well move heater off the top shelf.
• Leave bottom bung of heater pointing down, so that it can drain more fully rather than leaving an extra 1-2 inches of water in the minitank.

Plumbing

compressor

¼” to ½”

Kitchen Finalization

​

g

Sink.

• Attach faucet. (move to dishwasher)
• Mount sink from underside, use caulk
• Attach lines to sources
• Finish plumbing, including washer tailpiece

Dishwasher

1. Connect dishwasher power cord, water source, drain
2. Drill hole for power cord/drain at top, and drill hole for water supply at bottom
3. Connect and test.
4. Attach to underside of cabinet

Heaters

1. Mount front face on water heater cabinet
2. Finish connections

Induction

1. Drill hole for wiring
2. Route wire through hole and wire outlet
3. Insert cooktop
4. Screw down wedges to fix cooktop location

Stove

1. Attach stove stand to back wall
2. Drill hole for wire
3. Hardwire stove outlet; route through hole and use escutcheon
4. Take any other steps to mount stove firmly, such as shims.
5. Fix face of stove to front using 2 screws.

Trim

1. Install splash board, finish ends with miters.
2. Install oak face by sink
3. Install final oak trim of south cabinet

Plumbing

Heater Testing

​

g

Build Notes

1. Test Flow rates. Heart 1 power on/off only, Heater 2 power off.
1. 1 connected, 2 disconnected.
1. Heater off - Test flow rate (for hot water only) in shower 1 - 2.5 gpm minimum requirement. Flow rate -
2. Heater off - shower 2 - flow rate -
3. Heater on - shower 1
1. Rise time -
2. Volume of water to full heat -
4. Heater on - shower 2 -
• Rise time -
• Volume of water to full heat -
2. Both 1 + 2 connected (directly, minus bypass system)
• Shower 1 flow rate -
• Shower 2 flow rate -
2. Test heater 2 only. Heater 1 connected but power off - water flows through 1
• Heater 2 power on:
• Shower 1 Rise time -
• Shower 1 Flow rate -
• Heater 2 power on:
• Shower 2 Rise time -
• Shower 2 Flow rate -
3. Both heaters connected and on
• Case of Minitank being hot - does Heater 2 turn on at all? This is the big question for energy conservation.
• Case of Minitank being hot - is it about 4 minutes before Heater 2 goes on full power (when water in 1 turns cold)?
• Based on the above 2 - do these 2 heaters work well together?
• Is the power use the same in Heater 2 when Heater is 1 is (on+cold) vs off? Ie, do they still work synergistically when 1 is cold but heating? (Should not, as 1 is much smaller)
• Case of minitank being cold (>4 min) - does 2nd heater go on readily?
4. Data analysis:
• Is time of rise equivalent for

Plumbing

1

Next iteration: probably insulate all pipes to minimize temp rise time, and make instant. Raise heat retention time to 1 hr or so - meaning we are insulated and water in pipes remains hot for a longer time. We already have insulation in walls.

2

Note: draining minitank heater results in 1.5 quarts remaining at bottom bung level. Freeze hazard. Tilting down solves this. In practice - blow it out or fill with antifreeze to prevent freezing.

On-Demand Water Heater - Geometry Issues

​

Bypass

​

Normal

​

Cleanout

​

g

​

Build Notes

• Angled fittings do not work for tightening to a replicable angle. Heater connection would break if overtorqued. Heater element is connected through a compression fitting with rubber washer.
• Proposed method must be modified.
• It turns out that the flexibility of T-valve 3 way valve allows the required function, no change in design needed outside of elbows.
• Next time: use ½” NPT to straight sharkbite to control geometry of design fully. But this requires more vertical room - 2” more so the minitank heater must be moved up or heater 2 must be moved up.

Plumbing

1

Note: ended up using 2 angle fittings on heater, this is the angle that worked.

HD. Amazon.

Water Heater Cabinet 5

​

g

​

Main Order

• Prep Outlet for Water Heater
• Prep Outlet for Water Heater 2
• Prep wall plumbing for Water Heater 1.
• Prep Tray Drain Plumbing
• Prep plumbing on Water Heater 1
• Make and Install top of cabinet
• Make and nstall mid shelf + water heater + connect it fully
• Prep plumbing on Water Heater 2
• Prep wall plumbing for Water Heater 2
• Install bottom + water heater 2 + connect it fully

Plumbing

½”

½”

12/3 + 14/2

1

2

Pan drain

8

6

3

4

5

Supply

7

9

Water Heater Cabinet 4

​

g

​

Build Sides

• Cut edge-glued board sides 1” longer from 8’ stock
• Rough cut beadboard ½” larger than sides
• Test smooth routing of beadboard using tape. Use scrap piece of beadboard
• Mark RHS and LHS pieces on bottom (where it will be covered by oak)
• Mark top and trim to fit adjacent cabinets
• Brad nail and glue beadboard to outer side
• Route for perfect fit
• Fit both sides in place, and attach with 6 screws to butcher block. Predrill and countersink. 4 screws on inside, 2 screws from front.
• Continue attaching 2 screws each through side cabinets, total of 12 more screws.

​

Build Top and shelves

1. Measure top space, cut top to fit.
2. Attach 4 support members to top.
3. Attach top with 4 screws to sides.
4. Build and add mid shelf, fitting heater in position.
1. Use 6 screws on both sides
2. Use 2-3 screws on back into wall
5. Add all fittings
6. Determine and drill holes for water and power connections
7. Add 2nd heater.
8. Add bottom shelf.
9. Add face.
• Secure with brackets -

​

Escutcheons

Plumbing

Water Heater Cabinet 3

​

g

Prewire Kitchen Cabinet

1. Water heater 1 - wiring involves 12/3 source to:
1. Heater hardwire
2. Outlet for LEDs
3. Continue to kitchen light
2. Water heater 2

​

Pre-plumb Kitchen Cabinet

1. Escutcheons
2. Source, sink, drain (pan)
3. Wires -
4. Fittings - 8
5. 4 valves
1. Source, bend down reduce, ½ valve
6. Wire nuts
7. Box covers

Escutcheons

Hard wired.

½”

3/4”? entry

Plumbing

¾”

x3

25 ci

¾”

Normal + Bypass

Inlet stub

To stub

Heater 2

Heater 1

Leaves the box

GFCI near water heater

Kitchen light

12 ga multiwire

Outlet is feed-through for water heater

Box ground

Water Heater Cabinet 2

​

g

Build Steps

• Finish butcher block
• Make sides with beadboard, let glue dry while:
• Prewire/preplumb the wall side prior to assembling structure
• Prewire/preplumb the water heaters prior to installation
• Make the cabinet top
• Attach water heater mount to wall
• Attach big heater to mount
• Make the mid and bottom shelves, attach mid shelf including the drain pan connection
• Attach on-demand heater, connect water and power
• Attach bottom shelf
• Attach face of water heater cabinet
• Trim the bottom area with oak and white trim

Materials

• Escutcheons
• 2 Outlets
• Wires -
• Fittings - 8
• 4 valves
• Wire nuts
• Box covers
• Drain pan
• Uniseal
• PEX pipe

Tools

1. 12 ga strippers
2. Wire

Prewire/plumb wall

1

Prewire/plumb heaters

2

Escutcheons

Plumbing

Water Heater Cabinet

​

g

Build Steps

1. Cut (2) 16” x 96” vertical strips of 3/16 beadboard veneer and attach (with glue and ¾” brad nails) to (2) 1x16 edge glue boards
2. Measure the height of the cabinet (from top of countertop to top of top cabinet) and then cut the 1x16 boards + beadboard assembly to the correct length. Install both verticals by attaching them to other wall cabinets.
3. Measure and cut the top and the shelves out of 36” 1x16 edge-glued boards. Dry fit to make sure they are the right size.
4. Attach the top and shelves to 1x2s
5. Install top and shelves: drive 1-¼” trim screws into the sides and 2-½” into the studs in the back
1. Top and shelves have 4 sides supported (1)
2. Dry fit front face. Bottom shelf is just below lip of front face (2)
3. Sink area is lined with oak on 3 sides (3)
6. Cut and install 3 panels out of ¼” oak plywood to line the sink cavity (3)
7. Install the front assembly.
8. Trim out the sink area - TBD.

Materials

• 1x2s, stained
• 1x16s - all
• Front face

1

Lined with oak

2

3

Minimum lip

4

Cooktop Vent Hood

BOM

​

g

Top Trim

1. 450 cfm

Calculations

1. CFM for kitchen - for 15 exchanges per hour. Kitchen is 1000 cf. Each hour - 100 cfm gets us 6000 cf. Thus, need 250 CFM based on air exchange.

Troubleshooting

1. Use rasp to ream out hole if vent pipe slightly too large
2. Insert vent 3”
3. Meet with 3.5” of flex duct
4. Pinch with slit ring, screwing in to back

Hole is oval, but fit is tight because pipe enters from left.

Kitchen Cabinets vBOM

BOM

Menards

small

large

To fill corners of cabinet casing after installing cabinets

Above Cooktop Cabinet - Detail

BOM

​

Wings continue to ceiling trim

​

​

Hood fan holder frame

​

​

Back of top cabinet

g

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

Top Trim

• Use on top
• Use on bottom
• Use screws from underneath (with pre-drilled holes) for attaching trim sides
• Use screws from underneath to screw from face of cabinet 2 into front of trim
• Connect casing at end

Connect 2 Cabinets

1. Use 2 screws to screw between 2 faces, screwing into top cabinet so screw is not visible
2. Use 2 more screws from top cabinet into bottom cabinet, connecting bottom of 2 and top of 3. So that screw does not stick out, screw at an angle such that nail tip is hidden (no possible injury/damage).

Hood Fan Holder Frame

1. This holds vent hood, so connection must be solid
2. Use 4 countersunk screws (trim or deck) - from underside for sides
3. Use 2 more from top through cabinet 3 face
4. Use 6 more screws for vertical stained trim
1. Use top and bottom brackets to fix

8

Top cabinet bottom

Bottom cabinet top

Back of bottom cabinet

Above Cooktop Cabinet

BOM

​

Way 1

​

​

Screw into stove flange?

​

​

Way 2

​

​

Wings continue to ceiling trim

​

​

g

• Make top trim band 1, attach to top cabinet 2. Flush with front and flush with side beadboard.
• Mount top cabinet with top trim band against level of joist ceiling
• Mount bottom cabinet 3 (it has bottom ripped out)
• Add flat bottom trim 4 (this frames in the range hood)
• Attach side beadboard 5 (white) running from top to bottom
• Cut oak bottom vertical trim 6. Miter the corners. Attach with trim screws or deck screws, predrilling and countersinking
• Add white trim 7
• Add casing 8 around top, to continue with the ceiling casing. Miter the casing.
• Finish the ceiling casing to meet up with casing 8.

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

• Build entire thing and lift into position via 2 motorcycle jacks.
1. Weight: about 50 lb without doors, quite manageable
2. Goal: working on floor is easy
• Take top cabinet 2, then make and attach trim 1
• Modify trim 8 to include stubs to the side under the ceiling. Do this on the ground for precision.
• Remove West side ceiling trim.
• Make 5-piece trim assembly instead of 3-piece. Side stubs should be 12” or so
• Attach 3 trim pieces this to cabinet
• Keep wing pieces separate - attach afterwards
• Attach cabinet 3
• Attach trim 4 and 6
• Attach trim beadboard sides 5
• Make and attach trim 7
• Move into place using 2 jacks and straddling board

8

Cabinets Process

​

Screw into stove flange?

​

​

If ran

​

​

g

• Do butcher block 1, connecting to small section 2. Fix all cabinets to butcher block, with small section glued and connected to block 1.
• Do West cabinets - connecting corner cabinets first, then south cabinet.
• Then fill in the stove face.
• Make stove stand , fit stove.
• Add a 1x1-15/16” strongback, so that 2.5” screw will go in. 1x2 would also work with 2” screw. Screw goes in 0.5” into a 0.75” thick front face. Screw it from the inside, countersinking head. Predrill.
• Cut out induction cooktop hole. Drill out wire holes for oven and cooktop. Fit cooktop with wire, fit oven with wire. Spacing requirements. Remove appliances until top cabinet is done.
• Add corner brackets on sides of vent hole - to attach front face to butcher block. Make sure it does not interfere with cooktop.
• Thermal seal to butcher block?
• Oven has built-in cooling fan
• Attach countertop.
• Mark location
• Add clamping block to right underside, and use that to pinch the butcher block to former butcher block section
• Glue 2 sections together, pinch together with clamping block
• Do cabinet above induction oven.
• Sand, stain, oil the butcher block to finished state - both sections.
• Cap the south end of countertop to plug the space to south wall. Finish this cap along with rest of butcher block.
• Do water heater cabinet and add water heaters.
• Sides go all way to countertop, for which reason the countertop was finished before
• Do backsplash
• Add stained spacer on West and South sides. Not North?

Cabinet End Detail 2

​

g

Butcher block

cabinet

Butcher block small stub caps visible part of block only, right up to wall

Otherwise, we can still try a longer sliver, inserted after fitting and connecting butcher block. Long sliver added before placing butcher block will not be easy to fit, so stub/sliver must be added after placing block in place. Thus, procedure stands as before

Double trim required, block too short to be covered by ⅝” thick trim.

Cabinet Procedure 2

​

g

Block 3 - 8’ stock

• Attach spacer (1-⅛”) to cabinet 4
• Place spacers under cabinet 4
• Clamb cabinet 4 to 3, predrill 3 from inside, and connect 4 to 3 with 1-⅝” screws
• Connect 4 to 3 through spacer
• Adjust cabinet 4 square to cabinet 3
• Screw cabinet 4 to stud on West wall, recheck spacers on floor so they are tight

Block Cut and fit

7. Cut block 3 to length, with cut against cut on main butcher block
8. Place Cabinet 5 in place, dry fit with laser, mark on south wall, then dry fit the butcher block.
9. Adjust height spacers on the floor as needed.
10. Mark butcher block on wall. Both cabinet and butcher block location should be market, so we can fit the oven cabinet front face.
11. Make oven stand
12. Make the oven cabinet front face. Dry fit to oven.
13. Attach front face to cabinets 4 and 5, with exact fit achieved by moving cabinet 5 to pinch the front face between 5 and 4.
14. Attach cabinet 5 to W and S wall in final position, checking the vertical adjustment spacers.
15. Add spacer 3 to cabinet 5 to close the gap to S wall

Butcher Block Connection

• Add 1x2 pinch block to connecting side of butcher block 3, with [4] 3” screws inserted into predrilled holes. Pinch block is ¼” from cabinet 4 side, so that screws can go in 1.25” into cabinet + spacer
• Replace butcher block, level with adjoining block. Use shims for leveling if needed. Attach shims so they don’t fall out. Test the pinch block by tightening screws into cabinet 4.
• Release pinch block. Glue butcher blocks together, redo the pinch block
• Attach 8 corner brackets of cabinets to butcher block. Verify that cabinet is solid and that glue drying can occur without disturbance.

2

3

1

4

5

6

Cabinet 4

5

Cabinet 3

Cabinet 4

Attachment 1x8

10

16

Butcher Block Procedure

​

g

Block 1 - 8’ stock

• Cut off bevel end of block.
• Cut front beveled side of block. Front will match other piece - needs to be cut flat and not factory bevel.
• Notch block. Do this before fitting for sink hole, as sink hole must be centered between cabinets.
• Cut sink hole with forstner bit, then circular saw, then jig saw. Jig saw can do only 1” deep.
• Cut faucet hole and prefit sink.

Block 2 - 4’ long stock

• Cut second block - first trim off 14”x14.25”
• Mark straight line from first block, cut.
• Attach sink. Fit sink from back side and attach with 1x6 cleats and 2x8 T frame. Fit sink, into assembly, and dry fit into cabinets.
• Remove sink from underneath.
• Attach 1x8 between block 1-2, including 3” side screws. Match edged, mark alignment.
• Remove the side screws, and slit the 1x8
• Attach blocks with glue, screwing the removed screws back in to pinch blocks back together
• Screw the front together
• Screw block to corner brackers of cabinets (12 brackets total for 3 cabinets)

​

14”

14.25”

5

1

8

7

6

3

4

2

Block Piece 2

Attachment 1x8

10

Slit

11

12

13

14

Trellis Reinforcement

​

g

6-8 Reinforcements

Drip cap

Only 0.75 + 0.5 + 1.5 = 2.75” meat at vertical bands. Use 3” Spax. Angle at 45 deg.

2.85” bite at 45 deg through 2” (OSB+2x12)

Into vertical of trellis frame

Go through vertical bands.

Go through vinyl siding in middle between vertical bands

Cabinet Alignment

​

g

Module Map

Procedure:

1. Measure cabinets, verify 34.5”
2. Shoot laser around 34.5”+ whatever unevenness of floor is: ________-___
3. Measure everywhere the laser shoots, next to wall and front, to verify that lowest height to floor is 34.5”
4. Place shims at cabinet bottom locations as needed everywhere so that there is 34.5” above shims everywhere and top of cabinet would be at the correct height
1. This assures everywhere we will have space for cabinets to sit exactly up to level line.
2. Work with the shims next to the wall. Front shims are later.
3. Attach spacer 4
5. Install cabinet loosely
6. Add shims in front
7. Screw together 1-2-3
8. Get space 5 correct
• Dry fit dish-washer
9. Get space 6 correct

Use ¼, ⅛” shims. Tape shims to floor.

1

2

3

5

6

4

Sink Mount

​

g

Module Map

Procedure:

• Fit butcher block into place, mark the sink location on back side
• Flip to back side, use tape to protect cut, mark on the tape.
• Make cutout in place. Start cut by cutting corners of sink with appropriate size hole,
• Plunge Cut out sink hole using circular saw. Perfect edge is obtained with sander.
• Cut out faucet hole (1-⅜”) at 2” behind sink hole edge (edge of faucet hole is 5” from back)
• Sink starts about 3” from front.
• Make Cleat assembly with T-back:
• [2] 1x6 lumber, 17.5” long
• [2] 2x6, 16” long
• [2] 2x6, 11” long
• Attach 16” 2x8 to cleats, mirror images. Use 4 screws, 2.5” long, predrill 1x6
• Attach top part of T with 3 screws - 2.5” long
• Mark sink contour on block, place sink in position, attach cleat assemblies to butcher block match fitting to sink
• Predrill cleats and block, don’t go too deep into block
• Use 2” screws
• Use 3 screws per side as a start, but drill a total of 6
• Attach 2x4 holding boards to hold sink in. Verify that sink is held securely in place
• Predrill holes through 2x4
• Attach 2x4s with 3” screws to cleat assembly
• Check that sink is clamped firmly. If hold is not firm, sand down or plane the 2x4 ends to increase clasp, but remove no more than ¼” of material
• Dry fit the butcher block with sink in place - in final position on the cabinets.
• Adjust if needed
• If all good, final fix sink by adding 3 more screws to predrilled cleats
• Remove the sink - from the bottom. Sink is replaceable from underneath.
• Dry fit the faucet. Remove faucet if fit is all good.
• Attach countertop
• Finish other cabinet.
• Fine Finish the countertops
• Sand
• Butcher block oil
• Do cabinet above sink.
• Do cabinet above stove.

2

Start 3” From Back.

1x6 material. Doubled for stand.

New Oven Stand

2x4

2x4

1x6 cleats

2x8

1x2 safety cleat

Stove

About 2.5” from front

Make slightly shorter

Cabinet Build Cheatsheet

​

g

Module Map

Procedure:

1. Put cover plates on kitchen cabinet area outlets
2. Measure cabinet. Rip a ¼” veneer piece for Cabinet 1 side - on right side of cabinet 1
3. Rip out back of cabinet 2 and 5.
4. Add spacer 1 (¾” flat on cabinet 1) to first cabinet (1x2). Predrill screws and countersink.
5. Rip 1” wide for spacer 2. Add spacer 2 (¾” on edge - 1” wide) to cabinet 4
6. Begin to fit all cabinets Leave 24” +/- 1/8” space between spacer 1 and cabinet 2. (verify 24”)
7. Measure and Cut hole for expansion tank line in cabinet 3 - need to send line through.
8. Screw together cabinets 2-4
9. Use vertical alignment, with laser to align top of cabinets
10. Add left spacer 3 (1x2) to cabinet 5, fit cabinet 5 in place . Cut spacer around utility channel on south wall. Spacer goes to ⅜” from floor.
11. Install oven support loosely
12. Install front face, connecting cabinets 4-5. Space is 36.25” - make sure front face is this or more. Trim as needed.
13. Add butcher block, and attach to all cabinets.
14. Add sink mount and sink.
15. Cut out sink and faucet holes

Supplies:

• Wood glue
• Veneer piece
• Forstner bit
• Butcher block
• Table saw
• Clamps
• Wood glue
• 2x4 + 1x2 cleats + 2x8
• 1x6 material - 23’
• Hole saws
• Miter saw
• Right angle square (or)
• 3 line laser

Block Straight Cuts and Cleats:

• Full Piece:
1. Trim front edge - full length of 8’
2. Trim one end for continuation
• Cut end: ~13” from 4’ piece
• Second side - cut to size, measure.
• Join full piece and cut end using 1x2 cleat and 3” screws
• Join to side block with 2x4 cleats

2

4

5

Stove Stand

2x6 material

(7” platform)

Front

to match kickboard

1x2 cleat

underside to match adjoining block

3” screws, 2” from back of cabinet

4+” screws

3” screws

Start 3” From Back.

1x6 material. Doubled for stand.

New Oven Stand

Base Cabinets

g

Procedure:

• Rip out back of cabinet 2 and 5.
• Cut hole for expansion tank line in cabinet 3.
• Add spacer 1 (¾” flat on cabinet 1) to first cabinet (1x2). Predrill screws and countersink.
• Add spacer 2 (¾” on edge - 1” wide) to cabinet 4
• Begin to fit cabinets 1-4 Leave 24” +/- 1/8” space between spacer 1 and cabinet 2.
• Screw together cabinets 2-4
• Cut shims for vertical alignment, with laser to align top of cabinets
• Add left spacer 3 (1x2) to cabinet 5, fit cabinet 5 in place . Cut spacer around utility channel on south wall. Spacer goes to ⅜” from floor.
• Install oven support loosely
• Install front face, connecting cabinets 4-5. Space is 36.25” - make sure front face is this or more. Trim as needed.
• Add butcher block, and attach to all cabinets.

1

2

1

2

3

4

5

3

Cabinets 1-5

Consider outlets in kitchen.

Prep and later:

• Cut cabinet 2 hole for power cord and water drain for dryer
• Terminate PVC and water fittings as needed.
• Add cover plate to induction junction box.
• Prep oven support structure.
• Measure and prep oven front frame - assemble but do not cut yet
• Wire up heater 1, 2 outlets and water connections
• Plumb and wire minitank heater
• Plumb and wire on-demand heater

(1) 12" wide cabinet with 1 drawer and doors

(1) 36" sink cabinet (2 fake drawers, 2 doors)

(1) 30" corner cabinet

(1) 18" drawer cabinet

(1) 30" base cabinet (2 drawers and 2 doors)

• See Insert Oven CAD.
• See specs for Insert Oven and Cooktop in Kitchen Design Guide
• See photos of insert oven face frame prototype

36.25”

24”

21.75 x 23

Kitchen Cabinets Connections Overview

Outlets + Covers

Stove, Cooktop

Heater 1, Heater 2

Connections

Connections

Closures

Drain escutcheon.

Escutcheons

Induction Cooktop.

Install + wiring instructions.

​

​

Oven 240V 2 wire

Manual. Oven wiring.

​

Water Heater 120V 2 wire.

Electrical p8.

​

​

​

On-Demand Heater

Wiring Design

Manual. Does not di

​

​

​

Cooktop Fan

​

​

Dishwasher

Wiring

​

Cabinets

​

Washer

​

Sink

sinks rough plumbing

​

Expansion Tank

Apertures

Install cabinets

Butcher Block

48”

2 gang plastic

Grommet.

Why aren’t plastic wall boxes used for hardwired devices?

Because of coordination issues. Metal is extra work, and they don’t make plastic covers with knockouts. This could be ok for nonmetallic hardwired conduit. Only available plastic clamp are the plastic buttons.

Hardwiring can be done with plastic boxes if NM cable is used. This is rare, as hardwiring is often in metallic cable, which needs metal box for ground. You can’t find knockout-rated plastic box covers for recessed boxes, either, though you can find them for surface mount plastic boxes. Different bolt pattern on each.

Hard wired.

Heater fittings. Heater Drain.

DW

Adapter?

H2

H1

Box List

Plastic on plastic

QC: are conductors wired to separate phases in multiwire circuit?

½”

½”

½”

• Cut out back of 2 cabinets.
• Notch drain in sink cabinet.
• Notch dishwasher drain.
• Hole for dishwasher power.
• Hole for oven power
• Hole for induction stove power
• Hole for cooktop vent fan
• Water source hole to on-demand

25 ci complex - back has 12/3 in, 14/2 out?

Electrical + Plumbing

Plumbing

¾”

½”

Does 6/2 fit?

Covers:

• Small metal (oven)
• Double plastic (induction)
• Double cover plate (j)
• 5 single outlet
• 1 small blank

J

Oven

Single outlet

Blank cover

Single outlet

double outlet

Single outlet

Single outlet

Single outlet

?

x3

25 ci

Needs ground

Because we don’t use ¾” LFNC

Butcher Block Prep Instructions

g

Notes

• Start with corner cabinet.
• Use a map.
• If you need to adjust spacing - use a spacer strip. Rip it on a table saw. Use countersink when drilling holes in on edge.
• If edge of butcher block will not be supported, need to add cleats to support it.
• Use finish washers for cabinet screws

Order of Build

1. …

1x2 cleat

underside to match adjoining block

2x4 cleat

underside

3” screws, 2” from back of cabinet

4+” screws

3” screws

Shopping List

​

Blank double cover for induction junction

​

Single cover, no device

​

g

½”

¾” x3

x2

½” x11

x2

Countersink

Joining 2 Butcher Blocks

g

Notes

• Cut edges - Use track saw for straight cut
• Mark domino location
• Use a domino cutter
• Use pocket screws to join

​

​

​

​

​

Home RenoVision

• Use mending plates to join. Mark and attach one side.
• Glue in place
• Use painter’s tape to keep gap closed as you screw in mending plate. Use plastic wood filler if needed.
• Use mending plate for pinching in the cabinet! Likey.
• Sand rought then smooth (150, 220) on joint. 220 throughout.
• Vacuum
• Use Osmo top oil. Can use nonabasive scotch pads to apply.
• Oil it before you put sink in. Use brush.
• After 24 hours dry, add second coat of oil
• Microfiber cloth test for smoothness
• 00 steel wool to smooth oil
• Damp rag then dry rag to get steel wool dust off
• Do second coat, use lint-free roller or brush

Sink Cut

1. Hole saw for corner
2. Circular saw with guide for rest.
3. Oil finish after sink cutout, but before installing sink.
4. Bead of sealer to farmhouse sink, then lower block.

Block Attach

1. These loosely
2. These with elongated holes so block can expand

On-Demand Heater Bypass

Kitchen

Sink

Modes

• Normal. Cleanout 2 closed. Second valve open.
• Flushing. Cleanout 2 open. Second valve closed.
• Bypass on-demand heater. Cleanout 2 open, second valve open.

Open or closed

Open

Normal + Bypass

Open

Flushing

Plumbing Detail

Kitchen Sink -

​

​

​

​

​

Heater

​

​

​

​

On-Demand heater

Sharkbite service kit $70

​

​

​

​

Dishwasher

​

​

​

​

Stove Vent fan

Apertures

• Cut out back of 2 cabinets.
• Notch drain in sink cabinet.
• Notch dishwasher drain.
• Hole for dishwasher power.
• Hole for oven power
• Hole for induction stove power
• Hole for cooktop vent fan

4” tall

Should have gone street up instead of stub

Kitchen

Sink

2-1.5”

2”

1.5”

1.5 / 1.25 in

1.5”

1.5”

4.5” tall

8” tall

1.5”

8” tall

24” water line

3/4”

$50 flush, no sharkbite

Inlet stub

To stub

Supply valves

P relief not needed in tankless. PEX can’t be within 18” of heater. IRC is silent on PEX to heaters, UPC doesn’t allow, needs the 18”. Zurn PEX says PEX on tankless depends on manufacturer. California says T&P needed ‘"except for listed non-storage instantaneous heaters having an inside diameter of not more than 3 inches (80mm).

See next page

See next page

Sink Cabinet

Water Heater Outlet Detail

g

​

1. Wall is pretty clean behind sink. Just rip out the back, so we can avoid cutting and measuring 4 apertures (2 water, 1 drain, 1 electrical)

4.75”x4.5”

​

• Complex box, can fit in single gang. Split of multiwire, continuing to kitchen lights (box list), outlet for LED strip. 24.75 ci
1. 12 ga 3 conductor + ground - enters
2. 14 ga 2 conductor + ground - continues in wall for kitchen light
3. 12 ga 2 conductor + ground - to heater
4. 14 ga 2 conductor + ground - to heater (not counted in box fill)
5. 1 device min

29 ci 1 outlets + junction to light + junction to heater

Walls Prep Instructions

g

Pre-Prep

1. Final paint touchup
2. Cover plates. Register cover - after floor.

Gather Materials

1. Induction
2. Stove
3. Vent Fan
4. Heater
5. On-demand heater
6. Washer

Electrical Prep

1. Wire up all outlets
1. Induction
2. Stove
3. Stove Fan
4. Heater
5. On-demand heater
6. Washer

Prep Water Heater:

• Install water heater electric box and cover, ready for connect. Terminate wires
• Prep the water heater-side power cord, ready to connect to outlet. Shorten as needed.
• Prep water heater-side water outlets with the correct fittings, up to escutcheons, ready to connect
• Prep water heater wall-side water outlets, ready to interconnect
• Prep the water heater overflow on the water heater.
• Prep the water heater tray

Prep On-Demand Heater:

1. Prep the on-demand heater-side water fittings and tubing
2. Prep the on-demand heater-side electrical wire
3. Prep the mounting screws and wire adapter.

Prep the Dishwasher:

• Prep the outlet. Double, with cover plate.
• Electrical box cutout in box, use an electrical trim ring
• Cut out outlet location in back of cabinet. See base cabinet installation.

Prep Stove

1. Prep t

Prep Induction Cooktop

• ​

4.75”x4.5”

Cabinets Detail

g

1

3

• Install spacer for holding 1x12 board
• Determine stud locations (13” + 29” from laundry)
• Laundry wall has approximately 3” on RHS and LHS
• Attach 1x12 using brad nails, every 4-6” as this will connect bottom and top cabinets together sructurally. Cabinet has no top or bottom - but 1x12 is inset ¾” from front.
• Drill corresponding to stud locations (12” + 28”) and preattach 2.5” screws
• Attach to premarked plumb + level marks. Use laser for verification.
• Note current result has a 3/16” gap at bottom right of first mounted cabinet.
• Clamp front face of ‘non-cabinet’. Do not release clamps if clamps are closing gaps - until bottom cabinet locks the front face
• Nail front face with 2” brad nails from the top and bottom. Be careful about grain direction, which will curve nails along grain and potentially cause defects.
• Attach 1x12 to top of bottom cabinet similar to 4. Pre-drill on stud locations in second cabinet mounts (top and bottom plywood), preinsert screws as in 5, attach to wall.

2

4

5

6

wall

level

7

8

Front face

9

9

10

• Brad nail front face to the edge of the 1x12s to bond first and second cabinet tightly to one another.
• Screw both cabinets to laundry wall according to 3 to immobilize cabinets

(Upside down)

11

Cabinets

g

1.5” to edges

2” to field

1

1

Spacer in front under 1x12

Mark studs (16 & 32” on far side)

Laser horizontal and vertical

Paint Touch-up

Closure Stops (1x2)

Cut + Stain Closures (1x12)

Vacuum

Attach 1x12

(2 cabinets)

Mark Level + Vert + Studs

Attach 1st Cabinet

Attach 1-2-3

Inside back of cabinet - ½” thick - hang from top and bottom

Back layer is ⅛” thick

​

​

​

​

​

1.5”

2x4 lumber

⅛” backing

½” cabinet structure

⅜” BB

2.5” Screw

2.5” Screw Max - no longer or risk of puncturing utilities

13”

29”

1. Measure stud on wall
2. Measure and predrill back of cabinet
3. Insert screw, ready to mount on wall
4. Do this for 4 supporting screws

1

2

3

4

Cabinets 2

g

Base Cabinets CAD

• T

1

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

Wall Cabinets CAD

• T

Cabinets

g

Start - Top Right Cabinet

• Attach stained 1x12 to bottom of cabinet before mounting
• Instructions. There are 4 studs behind top right cabinet
• Mount 2 as spacer.
• Use pocket screws for front face of DIY cabinet, paint white
• Use 1x12 + Minwax Special Walnut stain

Water Heater Cabinet

1. After all bottom cabinet - Butcher block before cabinet.
2. File - Kitchen - Cabinet - Above Sink - Water Heater.fcstd
3. Use 1x12 edge glued + Walnut + veneer on outside

Nutcher Block

1. Sand to 120 and stain butcher block. Minwax special walnut. Then mineral oil (food safe)

24”

1

3

2

4

5

6

After

butcher

block

Veneer

Rapid Build Method

Vision: 24 $2M

240 $20M. 240 leads 2400.

2400 $200M

g

LAI or Cheatsheet

Iconic CAD Docs

Parts + Materials

Info Architecture

Tools + Supplies

Physical Visual Library

vBOM

Tool Manufacturing

Sequencing

Environment Concerns

Automation

CAD

CAM

Parts vBOM

Steps

FreeCAD Gallery

3D SVGs

FreeCAD Gallery

FreeCAD Gallery

Presentation

Presentation

RLF

RLF

Everything related to context

Roadmap or Critical Path for planning

Machine Lab,

Equipment ATC Warehouse

Inkscape

Touchup

g

Items

• Masking defects. Remedy: sand with 1000 grit, feather it out with a little bit of additional stain.
• Caulk the back stained trim where it cracked.
• Beadboard touchup + nail holes
• Terrace door - reprime and paint. 2” foam roller. Coverage is light.
• Above front door - masking tape did not come off well. Used masking instead of painter’s. Tape solvent: Butcher Block Conditioner->Murphy Oil->Staining Wax->Pre-Stain Conditioner. Oil-based things dissolve adhesive?
• Joists - some defects.
• Joists - runs on East-most joist
• Run next to Bed 3 door. Remedy: scrape, 200 grit or higher by hand, not electric
• Joists - did not spray S part of west-most joist
• 2nd fl - 2” paint and some 1” didn’t come off clean. Start with wood conditioner, then mineral oil, then mineral spirits which may be too aggressive.
• Primer runs on top trim, floor 1, and other primer overspray as no mask was used. Scrape, Sand paper, by hand. 220+ grit, manual - followed by white paint - or just white paint to cover it all.
• Utility channel trim - sand the top from debris.
• Baseboard - touch it up prior to reinstall
• Front door - some stains. Remedy: 1000 grit + solvent
• Front door - 1000 grit rids of primer mist
• Windows - clean them from dirt
• Loose j-channel - screw it sideways to trim, at risk of immobilizing j-channel.
• Garage beadboard touchup
• Loose carpet
• Terrace - stain trim cracks.

1

2

1

4

4

2

5

3

3

5

6

6

Marketing

g

Seejanedrill - for promoting your DIY home improvement program - communications on DIY feasibility

Steps

• Adjust center
• Install latch
• Install knobs.

Door Knob

Door Stop Molding

g

Garage

Video

Steps

• Adjust center
• Install latch
• Install knobs.

Steps

• Cut top to size
• Nail, with fin to wipe door.
• Cut sides to size, and cut fin at <45 deg to match upper fin.

Keyless Entry - Prior Work

Exterior Carpet

g

Instructions. Programming..

TEEHO TE001

• Source
• Tape
• More
• Glue Instructions
• Double tape instructions
• ​

​

• Glue down porch
• Line up seams
• ​

TEEHO TE001 Video

Convert standard latch to drive-in latch

PV Grounds

g

Connections in row

Connection between rows

Vinyl Maintenance

Roofing nailer

Vinyl piece

Vinyl blade

Vinyl screws - barn screws

Hex driver - ¼”

Ultra White paint

Caulk

g

2 Cracks in Vinyl, 1 in skirt

Top Stained Piece

Gutters

Caulk screws

Outdoor Photo Prep

g

1

3 Cracks in Vinyl

Ext Nail Holes - white + screw in

Top Stained Piece

Carpet

Clean up driveway - weeds + dirt + edgers

Mow and fertilize

For Sale Sign

Touch up Garage Paint?

Caulk porch railing

Garage Door Trim

Exterior Door knobs

Kitch Cabinets

Bath Floor

Bath Cabinets

Interior Door knobs

Garage Door Opener

Main Floor

Joist Closures

More breakers

Gutters

PV Wire Attach

Bifold interior door

Stair Treads

Install Washer

Install Water Heater 1

Install Dishwasher

Install Induction

Install Stove

Install Range Hood

Butcher Block

Connect Kitch Sink

Connect Bath Sink

Connect Bath 2 Sink

Install Toilets

Install Outlet Covers

Install Lights + Fans

Tripod + Dawn + Dusk Shots

Staging

Interior Photos

Night Photo

Drone Photos

Drone Aerial - for PV

PV Design for Engineer Approval

PV Design for Engineer Approval

Virtual Tour

Complete CAD Design

Sweet Home 3D - Interior Decorating Contest

Provide SH3D Files

Landscape Design Contest

Grow Your Own Landscape

FreeCAD Part Library Contest - add real parts for 3D printing and digital manufacturing

Scale Modeling Contest - FreeCAD - produce a 3D printable scale model that can be printed on a public digital fabrication site and assembled into a detailed house model

Open Design Contest - Produce 3D printable plumbing fittings, electrical, trim, and other parts.

vBOM - Material and Tool

Design Guide

Build Book

Apprenticeship

Speaking Engagements -

AI speaker agency

Save the World

Invest - apprenticeship - for CoC,

2.3

Comps

With parked cars?

Crack in Skirt

?

2

0.5+

?

?

?

?

?

PV Grounds

2=>

Roadmap

g

1. MLS listing
2. Sales Website
1. Walkthrough - Virtual Tour with Virtual Staging taken from real photos?
2. Real Interior + Staging photos
3. Later:
• FreeCAD designer
1. Complete part library
• FreeHouse Material Production Facility
• Solar concrete
• Solar steel
• Solar plastic
• Solar lumber
• Zero energy custom home + Roadmap
• Hydrogen + Zero Energy white-paper
• Food Security Whitepaper - local is best for fresh fruit and vegetables year round

​