III. Instructional
Controller Module
Step 7: Place the RAMPS board onto the microcontroller (arduino)
The pins on the backside of the Arduino connect to the front of the Arduino. Start by aligning the bottom row of pins and observe how they fit together. Begin pressing down to fully connect the two components.
Continue this all the way around the board. Press down firmly -- it takes quite a bit of force get the components fully connected. When you're done, the silver pins on the back of the Arduino board should be fully set in and no longer visible.
Keep going.
Keep going.
Keep going.
Nice. That's fully connected.
III. Instructional
Controller Module
Step 8.1: Connect the screen
Attach the screen breakout board to the bottom pins of the RAMPS board. Press down firmly and make sure the two components are fully connected with no space between.
Ensure that screen cables are going to the correct plug. They are not interchangeable.
Label is under the plug. EXP1 goes to EXP1 EXP2 goes to EXP2.
Connect the ribbon cables to the front of the break out board and to the back of the LED screen.
III. Instructional
Controller Module
Step 8.2 Install Marlin firmware
Visit this link to download the current Marlin firmware:
https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_v18.09#Software
Download the following items:
Step 8.3: Open Arduino IDE
Step 8.4: Select Machines to Upload to
Step 8.5: Open Marlin firmware in Arduino IDE
Step 8.6: Add library update to Arduino in Arduino IDE
Step 8.7: Upload Marlin to Arduino in Arduino IDE
U8glib: https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/OSE_Marlin_and_Github)
III. Instructional
Controller Module
Plug your computer into the LED screen. The Arduino receives power through the USB from the computer so the screen should light up when you’ve done this. Open the Arduino IDE and press the upload button to upload Marlin onto the microcontroller.
This Marlin firmware will translate the microcontroller instructions into 3d printer instructions, which lets you 3d print from a computer program like Cura.
After uploading Marlin to the Arduino board, you will see this set up screen on the LED screen.
Step 8.8: Test the Arduino + RAMPS + Screen Setup
III. Instructional
Controller Module
Step 9.1 Remove and protective film from the plexiglass
Expose the plexiglass by removing any protective film around it.
III. Instructional
Controller Mounting Plate Hole Locations
Arduino
1.75”
1”
MOSFET
2”
[4] Frame Mount Holes” ¼” from corner
Screen
⅝”
3/4”
3.5”
1.75”
1.5” down
Note: all hole pairs are separated by ¼”
4”
1.5”
5”
Power Supply
⅝” up
3.25”
1-⅞””
Drilling: 5 minutes (using template)
Attaching: 20 minutes
25 min
[2] Stress relief holes
In the next steps you will be drilling holes in the plexiglass so the control panel components can be mounted to it with zip ties. Use the diagram below as a reference as you move through the step-by-step instructions.
III. Instructional
Controller Module
Step 9.2 Layout control panel components
Arrange all the control panel pieces on the pexiglass to ensure that everything fits. You can reference the previous diagram and the image below.
Note that the LCD should be all the way to the right if the cable is long enough, so its back connector does not interfere with the Y cable chain
III. Instructional
Controller Module
Step 9.3 Drill 4 corner holes
Drill one hole in each corner of the plexiglass, approximately ¼ inch from the edge.
Important. For all the holes you are about to drill:
III. Instructional
Controller Module
Step 9.4 Drill two additional “Stress Relief” holes
Refer to the diagram. Drill two additional holes immediately next to the hole just drilled in the top-left of the plexiglass.
These holes will allow you to use a zip tie to relieve stress on the power wires soldered to the back of the Arduino.
Step 9.5 - 9.8: Drill holes for each Control Panel component
For the following steps you can reference the diagram to see the position for each hole to drill.
�Alternatively you can lay each component on the plexiglass. Notice the holes on each component that will allow a zip tie to attach to them. Use a sharp box cutter to make a small scratch on the plexiglass where each of these holes is. You can then use these marks as a reference point to drill each hole instead of relying on the previous diagram.
Step 9.5 Drill 4 holes for the MOSFET
Step 9.6 Drill 4 holes for the LED Screen
Step 9.7 Drill 4 holes for the Arduino board
Step 9.8 Drill 6 holes for the Power Supply
III. Instructional
Controller Module
Step 10.1: Review how loop ties connect to each other
Before you put a zip tie into a hole, think about what direction it needs to be facing so that it can loop together properly.
A zip tie should be right-side up compared to path it will loop, and it should go in tail first, then swing around to be inserted into its head.
If you have trouble passing a zip tie through holes, you can try putting the zip tie through the plexiglass first, then through the object you’re trying to attach.
III. Instructional
Controller Module
Step 10.1: Review how loop ties connect to each other
Before you put a zip tie into a hole, think about what direction it needs to be facing so that it can loop together properly.
A zip tie should be right-side up compared to path it will loop, and it should go in tail first, then swing around to be inserted into its head.
If you have trouble passing a zip tie through holes, you can try putting the zip tie through the plexiglass first, then through the object you’re trying to attach.
III. Instructional
Controller Module
Step 10.2: Attach the power supply to the plexiglass
Shake the power supply to ensure that there’s no loose parts inside.
To attach the power supply to the plexiglass we will be running zip ties through the vent slots and holes we drilled.
Using a total of 4 zip ties for the job, attach them one by one leaving them loose so you have plenty of wiggle room.
Attach zip ties to the bottom holes first, and then the top holes. This will make it easier.
Once you have attached the power supply with 4 zip ties, tighten them all snug so the power supply is flat against the plexiglass.
III. Instructional
Controller Module
Step 11: Attach the MOSFET to the plexiglass
The MOSFET attaches to the plexiglass with two zip tipes. The upper part of the MOSFET will be hanging off the plexiglass when this is complete.
Loop one zip tie through the back of the plexiglass, through a MOSFET hole, and back through the plexiglass. Leave loose.
Repeat for the second zip tie, then tighten both so the MOSFET is tight against the plexiglass.
III. Instructional
Controller Module
Step 12: Attach the Control Screen to the plexiglass
The screen attaches to the plexiglass with two zip tipes. The upper part of the screen will be hanging off the plexiglass when this is complete.
Loop one zip tie through the back of the plexiglass, through a hole on the screen board and back through the plexiglass. Leave loose.
NOTE: The screen is composed of two boards, separated by some space. Loop the zip tie through ONLY the back board. Going through both boards will create too much tension and could cause damage.
Repeat for the second zip tie, then tighten both so the screen is tight against the plexiglass.
III. Instructional
Controller Module
Step 13: Attach the Arduino+RAMPS board onto the plexiglass
(The Arduino and RAMPS board should be attached at this point.)
This board attaches to the plexiglass with three zip tipes. Two loop through one hole and around the edge of the plexiglass, and the third loops through the two remaining holes drilled into the plexiglass behind the board.
NOTE: Like the LED Screen, loop the zip tie through ONLY the back board. Going through both boards will create too much tension and could cause damage.
When done, tighten all the zip ties and snip off all long ends to tidy up.
III. Instructional
Controller Module
Step 14: Add stress relief zip tie for RAMPS power wire
It’s possible that these cables could break when you’re moving around the 3D printer, so loop the cables with a zip tie to give some slack to the wires.
III. Instructional
Controller Module
Step 14: Add stress relief zip tie for RAMPS power wire
It’s possible that these cables could break when you’re moving around the 3D printer, so loop the cables with a zip tie to give some slack to the wires.
III. Instructional
Controller Module
Step 15: Cut the tails of the zip ties
If you haven’t already, tighten all remaining zip ties so that the components of the control panel are resting flat on the plexiglass.
Cut the tails close to the head of each zip tie using a pair of scissors.
Nice. Now all components are attached snugly to the control panel.
IV. Troubleshooting
Controller Module
Crooked Pins on Stepper Driver Pins�The pins are slightly bent on the stepper drivers. How to straighten them?
Use a small pair of pliers to squeeze the pins straight. Squeeze at the base of where the bending begins. If the pins don’t get straight, ask your instructor for a new pololu driver.
Straighten the MOSFETS on the RAMPS board as well:
Straighten out the capacitor as well so it is vertical:
IV. Troubleshooting
Controller Module
Pin header bent out.
Pin headers straight.
IV. Troubleshooting
Controller Module
Driver Pins Not Inserted Properly�The POLOLU driver looks like it’s placed into the RAMPS board, but it’s not.
Check both sides of each POLOLU driver for pins that are wrapping the outside of the plugs they go into.
To put the POLOLU driver pin into RAMPS board properly, try to make sure all pins are being placed into every hole as you are initially putting the pins in.
This may take a few tries and involve different angles of attempting to connect a POLOLU driver to the RAMPS board.
Pins visible
IV. Troubleshooting
Controller Module
Shorted power cable behind microcontroller: Remelt before turning power on and wipe it off. Use a soldering tool that vacuums it up, or a braided wick.
For big frames: use double or triple zip ties to reach the holes in the frame
Future Work: make a 3D printed controller mounting panel with all holes in it as needed. And make a printer template for the plexiglass if drilling.
V. Completion Checklist
Controller Module
How do you check that this component is successfully built?
V. Completion Checklist
Controller Module
VI. Design Considerations
Controller Module
Why pexiglass for the hanging material? It is convenient to drilll holes through plexiglass, and the plexiglass can subsequently be replaced with a 3D printed mounting board.
Why use a MOSFET? RAMPS clones are not designed to handle the 17 amps of current necessary for the heat bed at 12V. We route the current through the MOSFET instead.
Why use this layout? The Arduino is the closest to where all the wiring from the printer enters the control panel. The MOSFET is close to the Arduino so that we don’t have to extend the MOSFET signal cable. The LCD must be at the top so that its back side can allow its wire to hang over the plexiglass panel. That leaves only the bottom right for the location of the power supply.
Why this RAMPS shield? This is the oldest and most common open source design available. It is easy to source and it works well.
Why is MOSFET mosfet hanging off? The upper part is hanging off because that’s all the space it has on a 6”x12” piece of plexiglass.