1 of 18

SMS 204: Physics for Marine Sciences

  • Instructors: E. Boss.

​

  • Today’s topic: Physics of diving and surfing

1

4/17/24

2 of 18

2

4/17/24

Physics of diving

What in physics pertains to diving?

​

Forces –buoyancy, gravity, hydrodynamic (currents), pressure x area.

​

Physics of gasses in fluids (solubility).

​

Sound and light in the environment and our perception of them.

​

Heat exchange with medium.

3 of 18

3

4/17/24

What organisms, that are not fish and are derived primarily from land organisms, are engaged in diving?

​

sea snakes, sea turtles, the marine iguana, marine

crocodiles, pinnipeds (sea lions, fur seals and seals), cetaceans (whales and dolphins), sea otters, manatees and dugongs (sea cows).

​

Most dive shallow (<10m).

​

Some dive deep:

Emperor pinguins: 400-500m

​

4 of 18

4

4/17/24

Dive pattern of an elephant seal female:

Elephant seals dive continuously, day and night, for periods at sea lasting 2–8 months. They spend 90% of the time at sea submerged, averaging 20min per dive (with maximum dive duration’s of up to 2 hr) and spend less than 3min at the surface. They often feed at 300<depths <600 m, occasionally diving deeper than 1600m.

5 of 18

5

4/17/24

Recently, beaked whales have been found to routinely forage at depths far greater than any other air-breathing vertebrate. They

routinely foraged to 1070 and 835mand stayed submerged for an average of 58 and 47 min with a maximum depth and

duration of 1888 m and 85 min.

​

All of these animals face the same fundamental constraints:

1. increased pressure .

​

Adaptations to pressure address the mechanical effects of pressure, and with the increased solubility of gas (N2 and O2) as the pressure increases.

​

2. Lack of oxygen associated with breath hold diving.

​

Adaptations centre around modifications in metabolism, blood flow and oxygen storage capability.

​

6 of 18

6

4/17/24

Henry’s law – gas solubility in relation to pressure

​

How much gas can we incorporate into blood and tissue of a marine organism (gas is the solute and tissue is the solvent)

​

Solubility increases with pressure and decreases with temperature.

​

For marine mammals both will contribute to more solubility as they dive (deep waters are typically colder (not always in arctic regions and pressure increases significantly).

7 of 18

7

4/17/24

Scuba diving and gas solubility

The problem is mostly with nitrogen, which is not involved in metabolism.

8 of 18

8

4/21/24

Free divers, as marine mammals, do not breath pressurized air, reducing the incidence of DCS.

​

However, apparently stress can induce DCS.

​

There also seems to be some physiological adapations which prevent full solubility of nitrogen from occurring in free diving organisms (separation of gases into different compatments).

9 of 18

9

4/21/24

What about hypoxia (oxygen deprivation)?

​

Adaptations:

Higher oxygen carrying capacity due to 1. blood volume and 2. hemoglobin concentrations. In addition, some marine mammals contract their spleen during dives to release a store of oxygen-rich blood cells into the circulation. To avoid blood clots resulting from such high concentrations of red blood cells, many species lack a key clotting factor found in other mammals.

​

increased concentrations of oxygen-carrying proteins such as myoglobin in heart and skeletal muscles and neuroglobin and cytoglobin in the brain.

10 of 18

10

4/21/24

Frontier: sensors strapped to diving organisms.

11 of 18

11

4/21/24

How is the light and sound environments different under water than above water?

​

Speed?

​

Attenuation?

​

Spectra (frequency content and change)?

12 of 18

12

4/21/24

How about heat exchange?

​

Significantly higher in water than in air (why?) -> hypothermia.

​

  • Insulation or cold blood strategies.

​

  • Anti-freeze compounds in the blood of fish.

13 of 18

13

4/17/24

What physical concepts we have learned do you think matter for surfing?

​

Momentum, energy (wave), forces (gravity, buoyancy), Torque, hull speed, balance (center of gravity vs. center of buoyancy).

​

Movie of surfing pinguins

​

When we wait for the ‘right’ wave, what are we doing?

​

​

​

Physics of surfing

14 of 18

14

4/21/24

https://topex.ucsd.edu/ps/energy.pdf

15 of 18

15

4/21/24

Breaker wave height is related to depth and speed

or H/L>1/7

https://topex.ucsd.edu/ps/energy.pdf

16 of 18

16

4/21/24

Balance of forces:

https://annex.exploratorium.edu/the-world/surfing/physics/surfsci2.html

17 of 18

17

4/17/24

18 of 18

18

4/21/24

Summary of class

​

Physics provide a useful lens from which to understand marine organism adaptation to the environment in which they operate.

​

Evolution provide the time scale for those adaptation and ‘solves’ the most likely constraints.

​

Successful adaptations have appeared in different phyla at different times seemingly unrelated (e.g. bioluminescence).

​

I hope you found something in this class you want to know more about…