1 of 42

Contents

Slide 2: Section 1 - Parts

Slide 5: Section 2 - Desoldering

Slide 16: Section 3 - Magnets

Slide 23: Section 4 - Soldering

Slide 39: Section 5 - Program

Slide 40: Section 6 - Reassemble

Slide 41: Section 7 - Configure

Slide 42: Troubleshooting

2 of 42

Section 1 - Parts

Tools and Parts

Contact The PhobGCC Discord if you have questions

https://discord.gg/yrpUu7mgzm

3 of 42

Suggested Tools (in rough order of importance)

  1. Soldering Iron
  2. Solder (leaded is easier)
  3. Flux
  4. Driver set
  5. Sharp Tweezers
  6. Side Cutters
  7. Pliers
  8. Solder Sucker
  9. Non-magnetic Tweezers
  10. Multimeter
  11. Vice
  12. Blunt Tweezers
  13. Anti-static mat/grounding strap (not pictured)
  14. Fume Fan (not pictured)

You don’t necessarily need all of these, but having them will make things a lot easier

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

4 of 42

Parts

  1. Board
  2. Teensy 3.2
  3. Headers
  4. 2x Hall Effect Sensors
  5. 2x Magnets
  6. Glue

See ordering instructions:

https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1tjyrUQBrsygCnqov92_Uvu7fMM4pLW0p0D4A9YUuGBw/edit?usp=sharing

1

2

3

4

5

6

5 of 42

Section 2 - Desoldering

Remove components from old controller

For an example of how this can be done, watch this video:

https://youtu.be/X3Tx_yF-F2Y

​

6 of 42

All the parts needed from the old controller

Also will need to reuse the shell, buttons, etc.

​

7 of 42

Open the shell

8 of 42

Remove the motherboard

9 of 42

Remove rumble bracket and unclip potentiometers

10 of 42

Unscrew (T3 sticks) or desolder (T1,T2 sticks) the stickbox

Desoldering these can be tricky, the best way I found was to wedge my sharp tweezers underneath, then go around heating each post for a couple seconds at a time until it starts to come loose

11 of 42

Desolder the connector

12 of 42

Desolder the connector - continued

Can be helpful to solder a wire across all the pins (left picture), this helps heat them up all at the same time

13 of 42

Desolder the L/R sliders

These are also tricky, I used the same technique described for desoldering the T1/T2 stickboxes

14 of 42

Desolder the c-stick cable and L/R button boards

15 of 42

Desolder the Z button

Same Technique used here, get some sharp tweezers underneath while applying the soldering iron to the joins

Heat up both the signal pin and mechanical pin at the same time, alternating between each side until it comes loose

16 of 42

Section 3 - Magnets

Attach magnets to stickbox

17 of 42

Magnets and Glue

18 of 42

Clean Stickbox Tabs

Use rubbing alcohol and a cotton swab to thoroughly clean the tabs on the stickbox

19 of 42

Glue magnets to Stickbox Tabs

Need to stabilize the magnet while the glue dries, this is how I did it, you can find your own method. Using non-magnetic tweezers and making sure you don’t get glue on them helps a lot

Magnet Pole Orientation

20 of 42

Glue magnets to Stickbox Tabs - continued

21 of 42

Glue magnets to Stickbox Pivots - continued

​

​

Other Example Setups:

22 of 42

Glue magnets to Stickbox Pivots - Notes

  • Depending on how much glue you use the magnets may stay on by themselves after just 5-10 minutes, but to be safe I usually wait an hour before moving things
  • After the initial glue is dry, I usually add another layer to the sides and top of where the magnet touches the stickbox tab

23 of 42

Section 4 - Soldering

Attach components to board

24 of 42

Bend Hall Effect Sensor Leads

25 of 42

Solder Hall Effect Sensors

Watch out for bridging here, these pads are close together. Check with multimeter afterwards to make sure they are isolated from one another.

26 of 42

Check Hall Effect Sensor Position

The sensor position doesn’t seem to be super critical, but it's still good to be consistent

  • Parallel to the board surface
  • 1-1.5 mm space between the board and the sensor
  • Don’t worry about C11, it can use it as a height reference: have the sensor just barely not touching the capacitor

27 of 42

Solder L/R Sliders

28 of 42

Solder teensy header pins

Don't forget the 2 power and ground pins on the bottom edge and the AREF pin near the top

​

If you’re using a teensy 4.0, you can ignore the AREF pin (as it doesn’t exist)

29 of 42

Teensy Orientation

  • The teensy goes on the top of the board (look for the rectangular outline)
  • The USB port points to the right, as shown
  • Pins that need to be soldered are circled in red

30 of 42

Trim the header pins

The header pins will stick out from the bottom of the board and interfere with the rumble bracket, trim them until they are flush. The closer you cut, the easier it is to assemble the controller.

31 of 42

Solder teensy

Solder the teensy to the board, apply flux and retouch the bottom row of headers to ensure the solder is flush with the board surface

32 of 42

Mod For Teensy 4.0

​

DISCLAIMER:

  • Only do this if you are confident in your soldering and electronics troubleshooting abilities!
  • This is a mod to make the board work with a microcontroller it wasn’t designed for, its suggested you wait for the next board version
  • You have been warned!

33 of 42

Mod For Teensy 4.0

DO NOT DO THIS IF YOU’RE USING A TEENSY 3.2 - IF YOU'RE NOT SURE WHICH TEENSY YOU HAVE TAKE A PICTURE AND ASK IN THE DISCORD

  • Cut the 3.3V trace right at the C8 marking as circled
    • Alternatively: Don’t solder the two circled header pins
  • Run a wire (must be thin, 28AWG or thinner suggested) from the 5V pin on from the cable to the 5V pin on the teensy to provide power

34 of 42

Solder Z-Button

If you want to use a new switch check out Fires guide: https://firescc.com/mod-guides#/tactile-z

35 of 42

Solder L/R button cables

Note: In these pictures I soldered it on the wrong side… had to take it out and do it again LOL

36 of 42

Solder c-stick cable

  • Some boards have a connector like this one, others just have a cable
  • Soldering is the same regardless

37 of 42

Solder connector

Blue wire points towards the middle of the board

38 of 42

Mount the stickbox

Once the glue is dry:

Mount the stickbox the the magnets over the hall effect sensors (it will be rotated 180 degrees from its normal position)

39 of 42

Section 5 - Program

If you are using a teensy 3.2 use this guide:

https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/13Esk3xnU8lAE1Tqf3yA7SYfgqFlMF_F9pZMAf578qsg/edit?usp=sharing

​

If you are using a teensy 4.0 talk to Phobos on the PhobGCC discord for instructions

​

40 of 42

Section 6 - Reassemble

I think you can figure this part out

41 of 42

Section 7 - Configure

See: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1tICHkeWHWOi87ebddIgM1hSR2AaJqE-wSA17Wzhi0u0/edit?usp=sharing

​

NOTE: You will need to disable safe mode and perform the controller reset then power cycle the controller before calibrating the first time

42 of 42

Troubleshooting

  1. Fill out this template (also pinned in the tech-support channel on the discord): https://docs.google.com/document/d/1_Ty5K1i0f9yYo9i9MRjLFLlgXD8GUjmaSZQTSINdQ5E/edit
  2. Post a link to it in the tech-support channel and @ phobos