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Introduction to 3D-printing

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About us

  • Volunteer student organization
  • Manages Makerverkstedet in U1
  • Arranges courses and events
  • Works to create a better relationship between student workshops

makentnu.no

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Makerverkstedet U1

  • Workshop Realfagbygget U1
  • Open to students and employees
    • Free
  • Equipment
    • Tools
    • 3D printers
    • 3D scanner
    • Sewing machines
    • Soldering irons
    • Oscilloscope, signal generator
  • Group on Facebook: Makerverkstedet U1

Open 24/7�

Staffed weekdays between 12-18

(Friday 12-16)

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Course content

  • Our Printers
  • Components of a FDM printer
  • From idea to product:
    • Model
    • Slicer
    • Printer
  • Surface treatment
  • Different types of materials

  • Reserve a printer
  • Rules
  • Other places to print
  • Demonstration

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Our Printers

Fused deposition modeling (FDM/FFF)

  • Creates models from a roll of plastic
  • Melts the plastic and pushes out a thin line to create a design
  • Simple and reliable

Stereolithography (SLA)

  • Uses a pool of resin
  • Hardens the resin with a laser
  • Very Detailed
  • Members only
  • Send mail to:

3dprint@makentnu.no

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SLA: Formlabs Form 2

  • Cures liquid resin with lasers
  • Pros:
    • Extremely high resolution
    • Large selection of materials
  • Cons:
    • Expensive
    • Less user friendly
    • Toxic
    • Requires treatment

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Raise3D pro 2 (Seperate Course)

Requires separate “advanced” course to use:

  • Can print other materials than PLA
    • ABS
    • PETG

  • Larger build volume
    • Ultimaker: 220*220*205 mm
    • Raise3D: 300*300*600 mm

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Components of a FDM printer

User Interface

Build Plate

Extruder

Filament

Feeder

Ultimaker 2+:

ON / OFF

Filament Rør

(Bowden Tube)

SD Kort

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Components of a FDM printer

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PLA filament

Two sizes: 1,75 mm og 2,85 mm

  • Easy to print
  • Organic
    • May deteriorate if left outside over long periods of time.
  • Deforms at 55 °C
  • «Food safe»
    • Still, not recommended to make plates or cups since bacteria may grow between the layers

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From idea to object

3D-model

Slicer

Printer

.stl

.gcode

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3D Model

  • Design yourself
    • Fusion 360
    • SketchUp
    • Solidworks
    • Rhino
    • 3DS Max
    • Blender
    • etc
  • Find online
    • Thingiverse
    • thangs
    • Printables
    • Terrafab.bengler.no
    • Shapeways
    • Sketchfab
    • GrabCAD

3D-Model

.stl

Slicer

.gcode

Printer

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Slicer

  • Slices the model into printer instructions
    • Saved as a G-code file
  • Adjust the settings for your print
    • Resolution
    • Infill
    • Support
    • Platform adhesion

3D-Model

.stl

Slicer

.gcode

Printer

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Resolution

  • Decided by layer height
  • A smaller height improves quality but increases print time as well
  • Range: 0.06mm - 0.30 mm
  • Recommended for Ultimaker 2+:
    • Fast: 0.2 mm
    • Balanced: 0.15 mm
    • Detailed: 0.1 mm
  • Our printers use a 0.4mm nozzle,
    • Changed in slicer settings

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Infill

  • How much of the printer interior is filled
  • 10-20 % is normal
  • Max 60%
    • Everything larger doesn’t improve strength
    • Should rather increase wall thickness
  • Infill might be visible through translucent materials
  • Different patterns
    • Triangles/squares gives good print strength
    • Concentric infill is good for flexible prints
    • Gyroid infill gives even strength in all directions

Many different infill types and sizes

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Support

Supports overhangs and bridges

Necessary at around ~60 degrees

Two Different types:

  • Normal:
    • Standard support type
    • Recommended for simple shapes
    • Space effective
  • Tree:
    • Recommended for detailed prints
    • Designed for figures
    • Takes longer time to print
      • Is usually easier to remove

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Platform adhesion

Makes the model stick better to the build plate

Three types:

  • Raft
    • Creates a platform under the model
    • Great when the bottom of the model is not flat
    • Gives the strongest grip
    • Hard to remove
  • Brim
    • Added outside the bottom layer
    • Better grip and prevents warping in the bottom perimeter
    • Easy to remove
  • Skirt
    • Creates a thin line around the model
    • Lets you see if the nozzle is extruding properly and if the build platform is level

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Cura - demonstration

  • Free download: https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura
  • Settings:
    • Ultimaker 2+ / 2+ extended
    • PLA
  • Estimates time to print and filament use
  • Add extra time to your reservation to make sure you finish in time
  • Save on a SD-card with ‘YOURUSERNAME_filename.gcode’

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Printing

  • Executes the G-code instructions
  • No error detection
  • If the print fails, stop it

3D-Model

.stl

Slicer

.gcode

Printer

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Surface treatment

After a successful print, you may need to:

  • Remove supports and defects with a knife or pliers
  • Polish with sandpaper / dremel tool
  • Primer / paint

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Reserve a printer

  1. Go to makentnu.no
  2. Login
    • Login through Feide
  3. Reservations
  4. Find a printer
  5. View in Calendar
  6. Choose time period

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Other places to print

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Where to find filament

  • Filament is located in the bottom row.
    • Sorted by color

  • Push or kick lightly to open
  • Use an opened roll before using a new one

  • Ask a make member if a certain color is missing�
  • Remember to put filaments back after having changing

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Make sure you got enough

Make sure you have at least 10% more filament than Cura predicts

Method 1:

Filament = Total weight - filament roll

  • 305g Fiberology
  • 200-225g 3Dnet

Method 2:

  1. Find empty roll beside printerrom PC
  2. Put empty roll on weight
  3. Press “TARE”
  4. Place roll with filament on weight
  5. Only filament will be measured

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Changing filament

Figure 1: Figure 2:

Required if you want to change color or the printer is running out of filament:

Step by step:

  1. Press ‘Material’
  2. Press ‘Change Material’

(The printer will then push out the old filament)

  1. Press ‘Ready’, then ‘PLA’
  2. Insert the new filament (Figure 1)
  3. Press ‘Ready’ Again
  4. The filament should now travel through the Bowen Tube (Figure 2)

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Problems when Changing filament

Figure 1: Figure 2:

Problems that may occur:

  • The filament won’t go inside the feeder:
    • clip of the filament tip
    • Try from different angles
  • The filament won’t go past the feeder:
    • Try again a couple of times
    • If it doesn’t work, ask a make member
  • The filament stops moving or is stuck in the feeder:
    • Cancel process, pull out and try again
    • If it’s still stuck, ask for help

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Secure the end of the filament

DO NOT LEAVE IT HANGING LOOSE

Always secure the filament end through the hole in the spool or a knot might form

Only loosen when you are putting the filament in the printer

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SD-card reader

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How to print

Name and phone number

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Removing the print from the build plate

Make sure to hold the tool the right way and as low as possible

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Can’t get the print to stick?

Possible solutions:

  • Brim or Raft
  • Clean the build plate
  • Temporarily reduce speed to 10-20%
    • ‘Tune’ -> ‘Speed’
    • Remember to put it back to 100% afterwards
  • Increase temperature on the first layer

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Cleaning the buildplate

  • We have a sink in our entrance hallway
  • Use hot water and dish soap
  • Scrub with the scrubber labeled ‘for buildplate’
  • Dry with paper towels

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Level buildplate

If the model doesn’t stick, or has unusually bad quality, it’s usually the result of a uneven build plate

Step By Step Guide:

  1. Press ‘Maintenance’
  2. Press ‘Buildplate’
  3. Get the calibration card
    • Shelf below the printeroom PC
  4. Follow the instructions on the screen
    • Should be some friction when you move the card
  5. Ask for help if you have any problems

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Aborting the print

Choose abort print

If the printer does not respond, turn it off at once with the power switch on the back

If you have to use the power switch, make sure the nozzle is not stuck into the print or touching the build plate

Send us an e-mail at 3Dprint@makentnu.no if you are unable to solve the problem

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Done printing?

The printhead should be in the back left corner when you’re finished

The display should show the start menu (Print, Material, Maintenance)

The printer should never be hot if it’s not in use

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Rules

  • Free
    • Not for profit
  • The printers are only for those who have attended the course
  • You are responsible for whomever you bring with you into the room
  • Clean up after yourself
  • No food or drinks inside the printing room
  • Follow the guidelines on the website
  • If anything is wrong with the printers, contact MAKE NTNU
  • Respect the calendar

3Dprint@makentnu.no

makentnu.slack.com

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Guidelines for unattended 3D-printing

  • All 3D-Printing has to be booked on the websites calendar
  • The printer has to be marked with name and phone number
  • The print’s file-name has to start with your NTNU username
  • You have to be present the first 15 minutes of the print
    • First layer if it is a large print!
  • Check in on the print so often you can
  • Retrieve the print as soon it is finished, in order to avoid others damaging it from removing it.
  • Max 6 hours continuous printing between 10:00 and 18:00, and 16 hours between 18:00 and 10:00
  • If you wish to print longer than 16 hours, ask 3Dprint@makentnu.no
  • If you don’t show up within 15 minutes, anyone else can use the printer
  • If a print fails, stop it and contact us if the printer is damaged

3Dprint@makentnu.no

makentnu.slack.com

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Questions?

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Registration

IMPORTANT:

  • Feide-account in CAPITAL LETTERS
  • NTNU studentcard: EM-number x

  • Takes 1-2 weeks
  • Forgot your access card?
    • 3Dprint@makentnu.no

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Fill in form to get access

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Practical Demonstration

Optional demonstration:

  • Find materials
  • Change filament
    • Remember to secure the end in one of the holes on the spool
  • Start
  • Pause
  • Cancel/Abort
  • Clean build plate