Chemical Relaxation and Straightening

MUKTI ARORA

HEAD, PG DEPARTMENT OF COSMETOLOGY

Hair Analysis

PETALS

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• Porosity – Resistant, Average & Extreme
• Elasticity – Good or Weak
• Texture – Fine, Medium & Course
• Amount (Density)– Fine, Medium & Thick
• Length – Short, Medium & Long
• Scalp – Dry, Normal & Oily

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This analysis will also include identifying the clients existing curl pattern ( wavy, curly or very curly)

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PETALS-Hair Analysis

• Porosity – to determine the level of sensitivity and what type of straightening lotion strength and processing time would be most appropriate for the hairs condition
• Elasticity – to determine the best technique and type of lotion to be used. Poor elasticity means the service should not precede as the hair may not be able to withstand the chemical process.
• Texture – to determine the best solution and processing time to be used. Coarse textured hair will produce a different result to fine hair and require a different approach.
• Amount/Density- to determine the size of partings to be used. Thick hair will require more partings than fine hair.
• Lengths – to determine the amount of chemical and materials required.
•  Scalp Condition – to determine whether the scalp is not inflamed, has any skin abrasions or the client suffers from scalp condition such as eczema or psoriasis that may react from the chemicals.

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The Consultation

Ask, Analyse and Assess.

Ask questions to discover:

• clients needs
• lifestyle
• desired straightening
• low or high maintenance
• chemical history
• particular details client has observed from previous chemical services
• analyse clients face, body shape, physical features, climate effects, hair and scalp type and product usage.

Sample Consultation Questions

• Do you have any colour in your hair?
• Have you had a chemical relaxation service performed before?
• Have you had any physical reactions to hairdressing chemicals in the past?
• How long do you want the relaxation/straightening to last?
• How straight do you want it?
• Do you normally use a blow dryer and straightening irons on your hair?
• What shampoo and conditioner do you use on your hair?
• Do you normally use hair conditioning treatments?

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Health and safety procedures before the relaxation service

• Avoid brushing or irritating the scalp
• Ensure there is no broken skin or abrasions on the scalp
• Do test strands to avoid over processing
• Client must be adequately covered with gowns and towels to protect against drips or spills of solution going on to their cloths or skin.
• A barrier cream applied to the sensitive areas of skin near where the solution is applied. E.g. the hairline.
• Remove jewellery such as ear rings and neck laces.
• Operator will need to use apron, protective gloves, spatula, sectioning clips, comb and mixing bowls.

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The Chemical Process

There are three stages

• Softening –The hair is softened by the lotion
• Moulding – The lotion causes the hair to take up it’s new shape
• Fixing – The hair is fixed permanently into it’s new shape

Chemical Phase – The Hair Shaft

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Hair is made up of a protein called keratin

Proteins are made up of

amino-acids

Keratin has a high sulphur content

The main sulphur containing amino-acid in keratin is called cyctine.

Cystine contains one of the most important bonds in the hair -

Disulphide bonds

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The application of lotion

When the lotion is applied to the hair, it contains an ingredient called hydrogen.

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This reduces the cystine amino-acid to a new amino acid called cysteine

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During the fixing/neutrilising stage cysteine is converted back to cystine

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Straightening lotion

hydrogen

The application of lotion

The pH value of the lotion is approx 9.5, this alkaline factor allows the cuticle scales to open and the hair begins to swell. This enables the lotion to enter into the cortex.

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There a three types of bonds that link the polypeptide (amino acid) chain. However it is the disulphide bonds which must be broken during this chemical process for the hair to change its shape.

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H

H

Straightening lotion

hydrogen

The application of lotion

The hair can now take on a new shape.

The hair is now in a very fragile state.

The hair is now left to develop, giving time for the bonds to move into their new shape.

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H

H

H

H

H

H

H

H

Straightening lotion

hydrogen

Rinse/Neutralise

After the hair has developed, it is rinsed in preparation for the neutralising service.

The neutralising lotion contains an ingredient called

Oxygen

The addition of this molecule creates new disulphide bonds

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H

H

H

H

H

H

H

H

The application of neutralising lotion

The oxygen removes the hydrogen and allows the bonds to fix into their new shape.

Correct timing of the neutraliser is very important.

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H

H

H

H

Oxygen

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The application of neutralising lotion

Over processing can cause hair to be frizzy

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Oxygen

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The application of neutralising lotion

Under development can cause the wave or curl to remain

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Oxygen

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The end result

Once the neutraliser has developed and undergone the final rinse. The hair will have permanently changed shape.

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Types of Relaxers�

Sodium Hydroxide

• Sodium hydroxide is the strongest of the three relaxers and will provide the most dramatic results. Sodium hydroxide is a caustic type of chemical that actually softens hair fibers.  The chemical also causes the hair to swell at the same time.  As the sodium hydroxide solution is applied to the hair, it penetrates into the cortical layer and breaks the cross-bonds.

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• The cortical layer is actually the middle or inner layer of the hair shaft that provides the strength, elasticity and shape of the curly hair.

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• Depending on various factors and the condition of the hair to be straightened, the strength of the sodium hydroxide solution may vary anywhere from 5 to 10 percent.   The pH faction may vary from 10 to 14.  The higher the strength of sodium hydroxide, the higher the pH and the faster the straightening solution will take hold. Also, the stronger the solution, the more potential damage can occur to the hair. Sodium hydroxide contains a high alkaline content and so special care should always be used when applying this chemical.

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Types of Relaxers Continued

Guanidine Hydroxide

• Guanidine hydroxide relaxers are referred to as the "no-lye" relaxers and they tend to be less damaging than sodium hydroxide relaxers. These products, however, still may do some damage to the hair. 
• Guanidine hydroxide relaxers usually require conditioning treatments before and after. These relaxers are a mixture of calcium hydroxide cream with guanidine carbonate "activator" solution.

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Types of Relaxers Continued

Ammonium Thioglycolate

• Ammonium thioglycolate (nicknamed "thio relaxer") is much less drastic in its action than the sodium hydroxide and even, in some cases, the guanidine hydroxide.   It acts a little differently by softening and relaxing overly curly hair through changes to the hair's cystine linkage.
• Thio works on the same formulation principles as thioglycolate permanent waves. With a pH of 9-9.5, these are also considered to be less damaging, yet still require a neutralization step. Thioglycolate relaxers are usually in cream or gel form and can be preceded by a pre-softener.
• Since thio relaxers are considered much milder, the risk of hair damage is also reduced by comparison to the sodium hydroxide.

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Relaxer Strengths

• Thio strengths are usually categorised as mild (delicate), regular (normal), and super (resistant)
• Mild is used on healthy, colour treated, fine-textured or porous hair
• Regular is used on curly to medium textured hair
• Super is used on overly curly, coarse textured or resistant hair

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Note: Ammonia and hydrogen peroxide type hair colours service are not recommended to be performed on the same day as a relaxer service.

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Physical Phase

• Spreading or smoothing the relaxer evenly and thoroughly through the entire hair is very important to the services success

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• The relaxation test is used to determine if more time is required for processing. This is done either by placing an indent into the hair with the back of the comb. A strong indent means it is ready to neutralise or, the hair strand is gently flicked in a upward motion. A positive straightening outcome does not show a “S” pattern.

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• Rinse, blotting and neutralising

completes the physical phase

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Chemical Phase

• Chemical phase is when the product is applied to the hair.

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• It is important to

protect the skin around

the hair line and scalp, by applying a protective cream like barrier cream or petroleum jelly.

Why do a porosity and strand test when performing a chemical straightening service? �

• A porosity test determines the degree of porosity of the hair and whether a relaxation service should proceed and what strength relaxation lotion needs to be used.
•  A test strand will determine whether a relaxation service has processed long enough (sufficient disulfide bonds broken) to achieve the desired hair formation
• A test should be taken at various intervals over the period of the processing time E.g. After 5 mins than again at 10mins
•  The test strand is conducted by placing the back of the comb onto the hair. If the comb leaves a minimal amount of indentation than further processing is required to achieve the total relaxation of the wave/curl.

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Incorrect chemical straightening or relaxation service techniques can cause…..

• Over processing – The hair will become damaged and cause possible breakage. The processing times must be followed and test strands performed at various intervals during the processing time.
• Uneven result – Wavy and straight hair is evident in different areas of the hair. The technique used for applying the chemical relaxer and the neutriliser needs to be even and consistent throughout the entire service.
•  Breakage – This is caused by over lapping product onto previous straightening services, incorrect selection of straightening lotion and/or overly porous hair. Correct application techniques need to be followed. A test strand needs to be performed before commencing the service. Better knowledge of products.

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Equipment required for Relaxation and Straightening

• Tail comb – Parts out sections of hair used for smoothing during process
• Sectioning clips – Holds hair in place in controlled sections for easy application of relaxer product
• Towels – Absorb and remove water, relaxer lotion and neutralizer through blotting
• Barrier Cream – Protects clients skin when applied to hairline before using chemicals
• Cotton Wool Strips – Protects client face from chemicals when applied around the hair line
• Spatular – Removes relaxer and or other products from containers for application , keeping supply of original product uncontaminated
• Applicator brush – Applies relaxer to hair with less product waste greater control and saves time
• Relaxation Solution – Reduces disulphide bonds so hair can assume new relaxed shape
• Rubber Gloves – Shields stylists hands from chemical during processing
• Timer – Alerts stylist to check for test curls, processing and neutralising times as recommended by manufacture
• Shampoo Comb – Distributes neutralizer through the hair eliminating tangles and minimising damage to swollen hair by using smooth wide teeth of comb
• Neutraliser – Fixes, locks in restores bonds to make new shape of hair permanent

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Special OHS considerations when performing a relaxation service �

• If a client experiences any burning sensation during service, cease the service and rinse hair with warm water, neutralise and then condition
• Avoid brushing the hair or pulling the scalp before any chemical service
• Perform test strands to avoid over processing
• Never exceed recommended time guidelines
• Wear protective gloves and avoid getting in or near eyes
• Apply a barrier cream to hairline and scalp
• Avoid applying relaxer on scalp
• Never relax hair that has been partially or completely bleached
• Never apply relaxer on previously relaxed or permed hair
• Apply relaxer evenly and avoid missing sections
• Advise client to avoid shampooing for at least 48 hours
• Avoid performing relaxing service when cuts, open sores or abrasions are present on scalp

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Relaxation and Straightening Application Methods

• Virgin relaxer – An application to untreated or virgin hair. Sectioned off and take 1cm width sections starting at the nape working up and over the head. It is applied 1cm away from scalp. Smoothed onto hair in light even strokes from roots too ends with wide tooth comb.
• Relaxer retouch – Same procedure as a virgin application except the lotion is applied only to the new regrowth at the scalp. Overlapping with previous relaxing must definitely be avoided to reduce breakage

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Relaxation and Straightening Application Methods Cont.

• Partial relaxer – Relaxer is applied only to selected areas of the head. Generally when the nape and sides are very short or when the hairline is very curly in comparison to the rest of the head
• Curl diffusion – A technique used to loosen or relax overly curly hair patterns by 50%. Lotion is applied and watched for the desired amount of relaxation to occur and than neutralised as normal

Neutralising a chemical straightening or relaxation service

• Rinse the hair thoroughly to remove relaxation lotion from the hair. This stops the chemical from processing.
• The hair needs to be rinsed for 5–10 mins or depending on the length of hair and according to manufactures instructions. There should be no smell of lotion left in the hair.
• Gently blot the hair to remove excess water and avoid rough handling of the hair as it is still in a soft state.
• Relaxation lotion and excess water left in the hair will dilute the neutralising process and cause an uneven and weak curl formation.
• Evenly apply the neutriliser to all areas of the hair and leave for the designated processing time. Insufficient neutriliser will also produce a less effective result.
• Rinse the neutriliser thoroughly from the hair as this may cause irritation to the scalp and then condition the hair before gently towel drying

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After a chemical straightening or relaxation service.

• Ask a client how they normally look after their hair and what shampoo and conditioner they currently use.
• Suggest that they do not shampoo their hair for 24 hours after the service.
• Recommend products that will best help them manage and condition chemically straightened hair.
• A treatment may also be suggested and any styling aids that will enhance the look of their hair.