II. Introduction
Extruder
Following is full documentation of the Prusa i3 MK2 extruder starting on Page 3 - with the rest of this guide covering the E3D Titan Aero Extruder. Note that we started with the Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder - but conluded that it is too difficult to build in a 1 day workshop setting. Thus, we switched to the higher performance, much simpler E3D Titan Aero Extruder.
See instructions for assembling the hot end of the Prusa extruder at E3D Instructions and Troubleshooting.
For the E3D Titan Aero - use the Titan Aero Assembly Instructions. There are 3 changes you need to make for the Titan Aero compared to the instructions above:
II. Introduction
Extruder
To mount the Titan Aero to the OSE X Axis, use the 2 threaded rods, 3mm x 10 cm long, which go through the carriage and through 2 extruder screws. Follow the pattern of nuts and washers exactly:
At this point, you just have to cut the threaded rod to 10 cm, put a lock nut on one end, and stick it through the extruder, under the fan. Note that you must take off the fan before inserting the threaded rod. You can put the wide washer, lock washer, and nut loosely on the other side for now.
The Threaded rod will clamp the extruder to the X carriage securely - with no other modifications of the X Carriage. The Bolt holes through the Carriage 3D Printed Piece were designed to match the bolt pattern of NEMA 17 motors.
Note that this way of mounting allows you to use a NEMA 17 motor of any thickness - from the small pancake motors to full-sized NEMA 17 motors as on the rest of the axes.
Addendum: Note that you will have to use some epoxy on the back edges of the motor to connect the back of the motor to the X carriage - as the 3mm rods tend to get loose when the motor gets hot.
Fan
X Carriage
Titan Aero Extruder
M6 Nut in X Carriage
Wide M3 Washer
M3 Lock Washer
M3 Nut
M3 Lock Nut
3mm Threaded Rod
II. Layer Name
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Extruder has following parts:
Screws:
Continue:
3D printed parts:
II. Parts List -Visual Diagram
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Extruder has following parts:
Heat Sink Fan
Print Cooling Fan
Teflon tubing
Stepper Motor
Heat sink
Collate clip
Sensor
Heater element wire
Extruder drive gear with set screw
Thermal paste
Screws:�[1] M3X8�[4] M3X18�[2] M3X20�[1] M3X25�[1] M3X30�[2] M3X35�[2] M3X40
[4] M3 nuts�[3] M3 square nuts �[4] M3 oversize washer�[2] Springs�[2] M5 washer�[1] Ziptie
Small fan wire�Big fan wire �Stepper motor wire�Print cooling fan extension wire
I.Introduction
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
The extruder prints the filament onto the heated bed. It is attached to the x-axis and makes the 3d print by moving via the universal axis system.
3D printing works by melting plastic to form a solid shape layer by layer. The extruder receives instructions from the RAMPS board on how to move and how hot to be.
There’s a stepper motor that uses a drive gear to push the filament through. Pushes the filament into the nozzle.
It just sits on the x-axis.
An inductive probe finds the level of the bed to print on it. The probe acts as an endstop.
Heat sink dissipates heat to prevent extruder from melting. Heat sink has a fan.
You have to push with a solid plunger. Shap transition from the hot end, right after the heat break, it should get to solid. Its thin, it conducts less and loses less heat.
It’s hot inside the heater block, it cools off bc it’s inside the cooler or heat sink.
Small fan cools the heat sink by blowing air in to the area. This prevents the filament from becoming too hot by keeping the heat sink cool. This prevents the plastic from being liquid because the role of the heat sink is to have a large temperature gradient because ?? it’s when plastic cools quickly from being very hot that it has the property of being able to 3d print.
Big fan cools the actual print material. It goes this by redirecting the wind it generates across the point where stuff is being printed.
The thermistor regulates the temperature.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 1.1: Insert print nozzle to heater block
Insert the brass nozzle to the heater block through the side with three holes.
Tighten it all the way, then reverse and loosen a ⅙ turn so it’s just very slightly loose.
Too tight.
Just right.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 1.2: Insert heat break to heater block
Insert the heat break directly across from the nozzle through the other side of the heater block.
Use your finger to secure the nozzle while you do this. As the heat break screws in, the nozzle could spin loose and you want to prevent this from happening.
Make sure that the heat break is pointing vertically up. (show picture of failure)
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 1.3: Re-tighten the nozzle under heat
During printing, the nozzle gets heated to a high temperature which causes the metal to expand, so to tighten the nozzle fully we need to do so while its heated.
Hold the heater block with a wrench. Use a heat gun to heat the nozzle for about one minute. Then use a 7mm socket to tighten the nozzle fully.
Whether it’s hot or not, you never want to hold the heat break piece while tightening because its thin neck breaks very easily under pressure.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 2.1: Insert Thermistor ��Slide thermistor into the slot from the left if you’re looking at the nozzle end, as shown.
Step 2.2: Screw in set screw��Screw in set screw until it stops, at which point the set screw is seated on the thermistor. Tighten it just another ⅛ of a turn.
Do not over tighten the screw. The thermistor cartridge is soft, and you might deform it if you over-tighten the screw.�
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 3.1: Put heater cartridge wires into heat block
Insert the pair of wires connected to the heater cartridge through the heat block on the same side you inserted the thermistor. ��These wires will be clamped down by a screw so it can effectively transfer heat energy into the heat block.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 3.2: Tighten the domed socket screw to the heat block with a washer in between
The extruder kit includes two long M3x8 screws domed socket screws. Insert one through a washer into the heater block below the nozzle as shown. Tighten fully.
The top bridge of the gap in the heater block that the screw is clamping down should bend slightly after you tighten down the heater block with a good amount of force
This clamps the heater block down on the heater cartridge so there’s a large contact surface for heat exchange.
Bent slightly
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 4.1 Apply thermal paste to heat break �Apply the thermal paste all around the threads of the heat break. You don't need to use the whole sachet.
Step 4.2 Screw on the heat sink
Tighten the ribbed heat sink to the heat break by hand. Screw it on tightly without putting any excess force on the fragile neck of the heat break. Hand Snug.
Be careful of the thin wires which can easily be pulled loose or broken.
Verify that the heat sink is exactly vertical and not slightly bent when it’s screwed in.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 5.1: Insert the collet into the heat sink hot end
Squeeze the legs of the collet clip to insert into the hot end of the heat sink.
Step 5.2: Insert teflon tube
Insert the teflon tube through the clip into the length of the heat sink.
The teflon should be inserted fully. It will bottom out when it reaches the top of the heat break, about 2 ¼ inch.
SEE NOTES NEXT SLIDE.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
To test that the teflon tube is all the way, do the following:
This is important because the if there’s a gap between the teflon tube and the back of the front end of the heat block where the filament goes into the nozzle, then the 3d printer will likely fail to print because liquid filament will ooze into the heat break and stop the machine from working.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 6.1 Gather pieces to build extruder holder
There are five 3D printed plastic parts that compose the extruder holder.
Orient the adapter plate such that:
Step 6.2: Put M8 phillips screw in top right
Put the m3x8 phillps screw into the top right hole of the adapter plate, such that the head of the screw is facing towards you.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 6.3: Attach extruder holder to flat piece
Orient the extruder holder such that:
Put the adapter piece onto the extruder holder so that the screw goes into this small hole. Fasten together using a phillips screwdriver.
Later on, this screw will be secured with a nut. For now, we want to swing the adapter piece around as we finishing constructing the extruder.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 6.4: Put in the first extruder holder square nut
There’s 3 places to put a square nut onto the extruder holder.
Find the square nut slot next to the sensor holder.
Clean it out using a small screw driver as there might be plastic threads inside. Use a flashlight to get a good look inside and scrape it out any uneven plastic as needed.
Put a square nut into this hole so that the flat part of the square nut is facing you. Push it in using a small screwdriver.
Double check that the square nut is all the way into the socket by using a screw driver to dip into the nut and like a lever pull it along so that it’s definitely in the center of the slot.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 6.5: Find the slots in the extruder holder for the 2nd and 3rd square nuts �With the adapter piece facing you, find the small rectangular face just below and under on the extruder holder where there’s two slots for square nuts.
Step 6.6: Put in the 2nd and 3rd square nuts�Put in the square nuts into these slots and then push them in with a screwdriver.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 6.7: Add the hex nut into the slot in the midline of the extruder holder�Put the hex nut into the slot and then use a screwdriver to push it in.
Later on, you will use a different technique to position it correctly within the slot.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 7.1: Put the extruder into the extruder holder
Ensure that the collet clip faces upwards into the empty space of the oblong hole through which you are placing the teflon tube.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 7.2: Cut the extra teflon so it is flush with the surface where it comes out
Use a box cutter or exacto knife to cut the teflon. Do not use scissors because it might squish the teflon tube so that plastic filament can’t travel through it anymore.
Step 7.3: Use a razor blade to gently scrape off the inside of the teflon tube so that it’s a small funnel�Take a teflon tube on one end and use a small razor to put the edge of the razor against the inside circumference and twist the teflon tube 3-5 rotations while gently grinding away the inner part of the teflon tube so that it becomes a funnel at the top rather than a straight cylinder.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 7.3: Use a razor blade or small phillips to gently scrape off the inside of the teflon tube so that it’s a small funnel�Take a teflon tube on one end and use a small razor to put the edge of the razor against the inside circumference and twist the teflon tube 3-5 rotations while gently grinding away the inner part of the teflon tube so that it becomes a funnel at the top rather than a straight cylinder.
This will ramp the teflon hole at the top where the plastic filament goes into it, making it easier to setup your 3d printer to operate when you’re putting filament in.
Be gentle with the teflon tube and do not scrape off to much of it or accidentally cut off a significant chunk of it.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 10.1: Attach drive gear to motor
Put it on loosely… because you can tighten it later?
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 8.1: Prepare to enclose the extruder holder with the other half piece. �Find the piece below that is the other half of the extruder holder.
�Step 8.2: Place a hex nut into the bottom left corner of the smaller extruder holder piece�Place a hex nut inside the hexagon shaped hole of the smaller extruder holder piece. A screw will be put in later on that that nut will catch to fasten a fan that gets attached to the extruder case.�
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 8.1: Prepare to enclose the extruder holder with the other half piece. �Find the piece below that is the other half of the extruder holder.
�Step 8.2: Place a hex nut into the bottom left corner of the smaller extruder holder piece�Place a hex nut inside the hexagon shaped hole of the smaller extruder holder piece. A screw will be put in later on that that nut will catch to fasten a fan that gets attached to the extruder case.�
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 8.3: Encase the heat sink with the other half of the extruder holder and fasten with the first of 2 screws�Cover the heat sink with the other half of the extruder holder.
On the flat side of the extruder holder half piece, find the two holes that will thread screws into the nuts you placed earlier. Put the first screw that is an m6x18 in and fasten to the hole on the top right, when the piece is oriented so the holes are on top and horizontally aligned.
A different-sized screw will be used for the other hole in the next step. If the screw seems to have trouble tightening see steps on next page for how to screw it in properly.
If the screw doesn’t go into the hole at all, ream the 2 holes to make it easier to fit in. Use a ⅛ inch drill bit on a power drill. Press gently along the sides to slightly widen the hole as the drill bit is rotating.
�
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 8.4: Screw in the M6x25 on the top left hole�Continue to fasten in the extruder holder piece. This time use a M6x25 screw in the top left hole.
Step 8.5: Use gravity to tighten screws to nuts�Both screws are held in by one of the nuts we put into the extruder holder earlier. The screw tightens into these nuts. Use gravity to help the nut reach the screw by flipping the extruder holder upside down and tightening with a screwdriver as shown. Wrangle as needed.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 8.5: Extruder Quality Control Check
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 9.1: Gather the parts for the idler cover�The extruder idler is used to push the filament plastic into the motor pulley. When the motor pulley rotates, the filament is guided into the teflon tube that leads to the extruder nozzle for printing.
The idler itself is sandwiched into the motor pulley with springs wrapped around screws that you’ll fasten later on.
Generally speaking, whenever there is a motor pulley, there is an idler to create the pulley or belt system. In this case, the idler is nearly touching the pulley except for the space for the filament to travel between the two.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 9.1: Gather the parts for the idler cover�The extruder idler is used to push the filament plastic into the motor pulley. When the motor pulley rotates, the filament is guided into the teflon tube that leads to the extruder nozzle for printing.
The idler itself is sandwiched into the motor pulley with springs wrapped around screws that you’ll fasten later on.
Generally speaking, whenever there is a motor pulley, there is an idler to create the pulley or belt system. In this case, the idler is nearly touching the pulley except for the space for the filament to travel between the two.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 9.2: Assemble Bearing�Sandwich a bearing between two washers along the rod.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 9.3: Insert bearing inside the idler cover�Make sure to push the bearing all the way in with a light push.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 10.1: Hold motor to extruder case�With the adapter plate facing towards the floor, place the motor onto the extruder case on the top end with the motor shaft facing down and the motor plug facing left as shown.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 10.1: Hold motor to extruder case�With the adapter plate facing towards the floor, place the motor onto the extruder case on the top end with the motor shaft facing down and the motor plug facing left as shown.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 10.2 Adjust pulley to the right place using an allen key�Use an allen key to loosen the pulley on the motor shaft.
Adjust the pulley so that the pulley gears line up with the teflon tube then tighten the pulley onto the motor shaft.
This is important because as the motor shaft rotates, the pulley will push the filament into the teflon tube so it can be printed.
If the pulley is not adjusted to the right spot, the gear pulley will not grab the filament.
Pulley not aligned with teflon tube.
Pulley aligned with teflon tube.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 10.3: Tighten the motor pulley with extra force onto the motor shaft�Remove the motor from being pressed into the extruder holder.
Use an allen key to tighten the motor pulley onto the motor shaft with full strength.
Flip the Allen wrench and tighten down the set screw as far as you can, pressing down on the wrench near its midpoint for greatest pressure. When you hear the set screw "pop!", you can be sure you've set it as tightly as possible.
The pop sound occurs when the small screw head slips along the motor shaft. It doesn’t get any tighter than that! This tight fit ensures the belt will be pulled effectively by the motor shaft. ��It’s also OK if you don’t hear a pop sound. As long as you’ve tightened the screw as hard as you can, then it should be fine.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 11.1: Place the motor back into the extruder case as in step 10.1�See step 10.1.
Step 11.2: Tighten 1st of [3] screws used to tighten to motor into the extruder holder�Orient the extruder case so that:
Use a screwdriver to fasten the motor to the extruder case with an m3x30 screw into the top right hole that is part of the extruder case, not the adapter plate.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 11.3: Tighten 2nd of [3] screws used to tighten to motor into the extruder holder�Use a m3x35 bolt to fasten the the motor through the adapter plate.
Use the hole on the top left of the adapter plate, when the motor is farther away from you. This will fasten into the motor on its bottom left corner.
Step 11.4: Tighten 3rd of [3] screws used to tighten motor into the extruder holder�Use a m3x35 bolt to fasten the the motor through the adapter plate.
Use the hole on the top right of the adapter plate, when the motor is farther away from you. This will fasten into the motor on its bottom left corner.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Photo holder,delete
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 12.1: Orient yourself to where big fan will go�Look at where the holes are and where the fan will be set compared with the holes.
The motor should be facing towards you.
Step 12.2: Add nut to the hole so big fan can be attached
Use vice grips to snap nut into place because it should be centered in the hole so that it won’t move and be able to secure things well.
�
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 13: Attach big fan with 20mm phillips bolts�The two corners should fasten the big fan into the extruder case.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 14: Attach fan duct with screw�The fan duct redirects air from the fan directly over the nozzle. This cools off the plastic so that it starts to harden after being printed.
Fasten the duct to the large fan using an m3x18 bolt.
It might be difficult to fasten this bolt because there is a plastic receiver for the screw and not a metal nut. Push it in and turn. This may take a while but should eventually work Do not overtighten. See troubleshooting
�
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 15.1: Prep small fan to be screwed into extruder case�Use [2] M3x18 screws the screw the fan all the way down.
Place the fan as shown. Wires facing left. Fan blowing into the extruder case to cool down the heat sink so it can continually absorb heat from the heat break that is connected to the heat block.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 15: Screw small fan into extruder case�Use [2] [ ] screws to fasten the small fan to the extruder case.
With the fan facing you and the motor facing up, put screws in the top right and bottom left holes.
Screw so it’s tight and there’s no space between the fan and the body.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 17.1 Prepare tensioning screws �Sandwich a spring between two small washers on [2] m3x40 screws.
These screws will be screws into the extruder idler.
The springs on the screws will push the idler bearing towards the extruder motor pulley. When filament is put between the motor pulley and the idler bearing, this pressure from the springs will allow the motor pulley to grab the filament and push it into the teflon tube towards the nozzle for printing.
These are called tensioning screws because they apply tension.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 17.2: Tighten tensioning screws into idler�Screw tightly enough so that the springs are compressed but not so tightly that the screw heads are touching the idler.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 18: Put blue bootie on the heater block �This bootie provides insulation on the heat block.
This is useful because ...
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 19.1: Place the sensor�Put the sensor through the extruder case ring such that the blue sensing head is facing the same direction as the nozzle.
Use [2] large washers and [2] large nuts to fasten the sensor in place. These are the washers and nuts that fit around the sensor.
Make a sandwich such that the round washer is closest to the extruder case ring on both sides, and that the nuts make contact with these washers on their outer face.
Fasten the sensor such that its blue head lines up with the blue extruder bootie. See next page for alignment guidance.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 19.2: Check sensor placement �Make any needed adjustments so that the sensor’s blue head lines up with the blue extruder bootie.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 20: Strip 3 sets of wires �With wire strippers, remove about ½ inch off the end of the heat cartridge wires, big fan wires, and 3-colored wire.
Strip them so you can extend the wires, which lets the extruder move across the length of the printer. Otherwise the cables would bee too short.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 21.1: Cut 5 piece of heat shrink.�Cut off 5 pieces, each approximately 1-inch long.
This heat shrink will be used to connect the wires where they are sautered together to prevent exposure.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 21.2: Twist together wire ends �We are extending them so the printer can move with the extruder.
Twist the following colors together:
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 21.3: Put on heat shrink�Put heat shrink on the 3 ends of the 3-colored connector and the 2 ends of the fan cables. This will be used to connect the wires.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 21.4 Prepare to solder wire ends �The next steps will walk you through soldering the heat cartridge wires, big fan wires, extender cable, and 3-colored wires.
Step 21.5 Extend the z-probe sensor cables
Caution: Do not solder black to black. Use the below color pairings.
Solder brown to red�Solder black to green�Solder blue to black.��
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 21.6: Tin the blue heater wires�Apply solder to the blue wires.
Step 21.7: Tin the extender cable on both sides�Tin the cable on all sides for 4 total.
Tin these wire tips with a thin layer because they go into the RAMPS board and need to be thin to fit.
Step 21.8: Solder the extending cables to the fan cables�Connect these two cables by soldering them togehter.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 22.1: Slide the heat shrink over the exposed part of the cables�Which cables?
Step 22.2: Heat the heat shrink with a lighter or heat gun�Use a lighter to heat the heat shrink so it shrinks around the wire.
This will insulate the wire and protect the joints.
Heat all cables with heat shrinks on them using a lighter or heat gun.
You can put multiple heat shrinks together to heat them all at once.
Dance the flame over the heat shrink for 1-2 seconds at a time until the heat shrink shrinks, probably for a total of 5-10 repetitions with a lighter.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 23: Plug in thermister extender�Find the extruder cable that has a special head.
Connect the tri-color cable to this cable.
The thermister measures the temperature of the nozzle so that it can be regulated by the control panel.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 24: Connect the small fan cable to the stripped 3 pin dupont cable�Connect the small fan to a longer cable so it can get power.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 25: Plug in the stepper wire into the motor�Put the 6-pin wire head into the extruder motor. This white end is wider than the 4-pin wire head.
Step 26: Label the wires �Make the following labels with masking tape and a writing utensil.
Tape around the ends so the labels are easy to find later on when you’re routing the cables to the RAMPS board.
III. Instructional
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
Step 27: Route the big fan cable in between the extruder
Step 28: Use zip tie to bunch the wires together�Bunch the wires together using a zip tie to weave them together.
This makes it neater to handle the wires.
IV. Troubleshooting
Prusa I3-MK2 Extruder
Filament does not feed into teflon�I push the filament into motor pulley towards the teflon, but it does not go into the teflon tube.
Take apart the extruder to expose the 3 hole that fasten the motor into the extruder holder. Ream the 3 holes using a power drill and a 4mm drill bit. This will let the motor shift in place so that the pulley can be placed correctly and guide the filament into the teflon tube.
IV. Troubleshooting
Titan Aero Extruder
You may have a clog if the following occurs:
Clogs can occur in a few places:
If a clog exists only in the hot end/nozzle, you can disassemble this part to clear it.
If a clog exists in the throat piece, the extruder may need to be fully disassembled to clear the clog.
IV. Troubleshooting
Titan Aero Extruder
If a clog occurs:
If filament can not be fed in at all:
Completely remove all plastic from any pieces you disassemble. PLA disintegrates in acetone, so soaking any PLA-encrusted pieces in acetone is effective.
A drill bit can be used to carefully drill out any hard plastic within the heat break.
IV. Troubleshooting
TitanAero Extruder
Under extrusion:
Note: brass if relatively non-stick
3mm pathway w/ 2.85 filament
Plastic => steel => brass
1.75mm pathway with 1.75 filament
Teflon
Lip throat, teflon, funnel heat sink, bc of gemoetries. Do not constrtict teflon tube in throat.
Heat break: steel
V. Completion Checklist
Prusa i3 MK2 Extruder
How do you check that this component is successfully built?
Provide further detail, with pictures and diagrams if necessary, below.
VI. Design Considerations
Titan Aero Extruder
The Titan Aero is designed to minimize the likelihood of clogs occuring.
A teflon tube is important for filament sizes less than 3mm because these smaller filaments are more flimsy.
Principles:
Hot pull: do this first and check for what’s happening:
Add a wiper. A close pin on top of the filament. This prevents dust and dirt from going inside.
See next page.
VI. Design Considerations
Titan Aero Extruder
If you can’t get filament through
Did it get clogged above the heat break?
Welding wire gets stuck somewhere
Now….
For PLA:
Still doesn’t work:
VI. Design Considerations
Titan Aero Extruder
Turn off the fan
When the filament is stuck in the extruder but won’t come out
End of filament spool