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How to Save Money by Adding a Solar System to Your Home or Business in 2026 - 2027��Eric Krock

Last updated 28 May 2026

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Disclaimers

  • I am not an attorney, accountant, CPA, certified financial planner, etc.
  • Ask your accountant for tax planning advice that’s right for you.
  • I am not being paid a commission, lead referral fees, or compensation of any kind for sharing this information.
  • I’m just a homeowner and dad who wants to see more people save money and help the environment at the same time, as I am, by putting solar systems on their homes.
  • This presentation will focus on how you can SAVE MONEY by putting a solar system on your home or business.
  • I’m not an employee, contractor, or agent for any solar firm.
  • chat_gpt sometimes provides inaccurate information; use it as a brainstorming partner, but check everything before believing it.
  • I won’t comment on specific manufacturers.

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Will I save money if I add a solar system to my home or business?

In most cases, yes. You can do the math on how much:

  • you currently spend monthly and annually for electricity
  • a solar + battery system will cost (before and after tax credits - federal credits are still available through some installers like Simply Solar via “prepaid PPA” through end of 2027)
  • a solar + battery system will reduce and time-shift your grid electricity usage
  • money you will save
  • the monthly payment on your loan will cost vs. your monthly savings�Solar installers will be happy to help you do this math and deal with issues like shading, roof angle, sun path, etc. Get at least two bids and compare their analysis. If it won’t save you money, don’t sign a contract!!!

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Estimated savings are calculated in terms of CURRENT PG&E electricity rates

Who in this audience thinks that over the next 10 years, after adjusting for inflation:

  • PG&E real electricity rates will go down?
  • PG&E real electricity rates will stay flat?
  • PG&E real electricity rates will go up?

If you expect PG&E real (inflation-adjusted) electricity rates to go up, your savings will likely be GREATER than what solar installers will estimate!

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Source: SimplySolar

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Am I eligible for a federal tax credit?

The individual homeowner federal tax credits expired 12/31/2025.��However, there’s still a federal tax credit that’s usable through end of 2027. Some installers (Simply Solar is one) can pass those savings on to you by structuring your solar installation as a “prepaid Purchase Power Agreement.” That’s very different than the typical PPAs offered by companies like SunRun.��For details in the SF Bay Area, contact dfrank@simplysolar.com.

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Basics to Know

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Units

Solar panels are sized in watts (W) at peak production. (e.g. 440 watt JA Solar panels)

→ Remember: “Solar panels generate watts. Light bulbs consume watts!”��Solar system is sized in kilowatts (kW = 1000 watts) at peak production (e.g. 33 panels * 440 watts / panel = 14.52 kW)��Battery storage is sized in kilowatt hours (kWh) (e.g. one primary 13.5 kWh battery and one 13.5 kWh add-on battery module)

→ Remember: “How many kilowatts can my battery provide for how many hours?

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“Solar panels only produce rated power for 4-5 hours per day”

That’s true. Each solar panel will only produce its rated �maximum power for 4-5 hours per day. So:

  • Multiple strings of solar panels are put on your roof at different angles.
  • Some strings will produce more power in the morning & less in afternoon and vice versa, balancing production across the day.
  • Solar system is sized with more rated maximum production capacity than your home will likely use at any moment in time.
  • When system is producing more power than your home is using (sunny afternoons), solar system charges the battery which will then power you in evening and at night.
  • If you need more power than your system provides (e.g. in January / February), you charge battery from grid at lowest off-peak pricing hours, saving money by time-shifting your grid usage from peak to off-peak. (And helping balance on load on our power grid!)

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“Solar panels produce no power at night”

“Solar panels produce less power in December / January”

That’s true. At night, you run off your battery. If necessary, you can draw power from the grid to power your home and/or to recharge your battery (when your daily home power demand is greater than your daily power production including what the battery can store).

That’s true. During those months, you’ll use more power from the grid. Your goal is to save money over the year as a whole, not to be self-sufficient every single month.

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Preparation for a Solar Project

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First steps

  • Go look at your electrical panel. Does it have at least two free adjacent slots so you can install an inverter? If not, you may need to upgrade your main panel (or install a sub-panel, or use a “Tesla Collar” connector that fits over the power meter) as part of the project.
    • If you have to upgrade from a small 100 amp to a larger 200 amp panel (for example), you may need to upgrade your PG&E overhead line from 100 amps to 200 amps as well. Only do this if you must; having PG&E do this may cause your project not to complete in time for 12/31 tax credit deadline!
  • Log in to pge.com and download:
    • your latest statement
    • your last 12 months of electricity usage data
      • calculate your monthly average electricity bill over the last 12 months
    • figure how how many amps your PG&E overhead line drop is (100, 150, or 200 amps)

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First steps (cont’d)

  • Figure out how much useful lifetime your roof has
    • When was the roof installed?
    • How long is it warranted for?
    • How do the shingles look?
    • A professional roofer could give you a (biased pessimistic) estimate of remaining roof useful lifespan.
  • Optional: Have a free talk with a Silicon Valley Clean Energy “Go Electric” advisor: https://goelectric.svcleanenergy.org
  • Optional: Sign up at energysage.com, get free bids, and read them to learn. (NOTE: these may be lower-rated companies you don’t want to use who bid low. Choose a highly-rated firm!)

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Think about how much power you will use in the future

  • If you use Internal Combustion Engine (ICE) or hybrid car(s) now and switch to EV(s) later, you’ll use more electricity when you switch, but you’ll save lots of money vs. paying for gas, oil changes, and ICE car higher maintenance!
  • If you don’t have HVAC and add it, you’ll use way more power in the hot months.
  • If you have gas heat and switch to an electric heat pump, you’ll use more electricity since you’ll heat with electricity not gas.
  • If you have a gas hot water heater and switch to an electric heat pump water heater, you’ll use a little more electricity.
  • If you have a gas range and switch to an electric range, you’ll use a tiny bit more electricity (and have cleaner air in your home!).

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chat_gpt research prompt on solar system sizing

SAMPLE PROMPT:�I want to put solar panels on the roof of the home that I own at [FULL ADDRESS]. The home has [CONDITIONED SQUARE FOOTAGE] of conditioned living space cooled by a HVAC and heated by natural gas. My goal is to power the home and recharge EVs as much as possible off solar power. My average monthly electricity bill from pg&e has been $447/month over the last 12 months. I have a [EV YEAR, MAKE, MODEL] that I will drive [ANNUAL HOME MILEAGE] miles per year that I will recharge at home. 3 years from now we will replace my spouse’s internal combustion car with an EV. She drives [ANNUAL SPOUSE MILEAGE] miles per year and will charge it at home.

What size solar system should I put on my roof in kw? How much battery storage should I get in kwh?

What do you expect the total system to cost? What will it reduce my monthly average electricity bill to?��NOTES:

  • chat_gpt’s estimates aren’t always accurate and may be excessively high, but reading them and reading Energy Sage bids will help you prepare to have more efficient conversations with solar installers.

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Figure out how much power you’ll use for Electric Vehicles (EV)’s / Plug-in Hybrid EV’s

  • How many miles do you drive each car per year that will be charged from power at home?
    • How many miles per year will you recharge with Level 2 charger at home vs. via charge from roadside chargers on long road trips?
      • Divide odometer mileage since purchase by number of years owned and that gives you miles driven per year.
      • Subtract estimated mileage for annual long road trips where you’ll recharge on the road.
    • This lets you estimate how many kwh of electricity you’ll need to recharge your EV’s (now, or when you have them)
    • Solar installers can help you estimate this from miles-per-year driven.

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chat_gpt research prompt on estimating EV power usage, heat pump heating

SAMPLE PROMPTS:�

  • How many kilowatt hours of electricity will a typical all-wheel drive four-door EV sedan with a five-star crash rating require per year if you drive 8,000 miles per year?
  • I have a single-family detached wood frame home with [SQUARE FEET] square feet of space. [GARAGE SQUARE FEET] square feet of that space is an unconditioned garage. The rest is living space that currently has a conventional electrical air conditioning and natural gas based heating system. If I switch this to a heat pump based system and live at [FULL RESIDENCE ADDRESS], and want to keep a constant temperature in the home at 72 degrees throughout the year, and have fully insulated the home in the walls and the roof to industry standards, how much power will I use each month from a heat pump based system for heating or cooling?
  • That seems like a very high amount of electric to replace hot water heater and natural gas heater. Are you assuming that the natural gas heater is being replaced by resistance heating or by a heat pump?
  • I have a family of four. I am well known for liking long showers. The rest of my family takes normal length showers. We of course have a dishwasher and a washing machine. If we install a heat pump water heater, how many kilowatt hours of electricity per month should we expect to use for heating water?

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Consider how large a system you want to get

By default, solar installers will size your system (solar panels + battery) based on your last 12 months of usage.

If you expect to need more panels and battery in the future, you may want to buy a larger system now.

You can “oversize” your system by up to 50% vs. current needs so long as you have legitimate expected future usage to support the oversizing.

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Estimating electricity usage per month over car and home electrification (this is analysis overkill)

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Example

By default, solar installers recommended 11.4 kw of solar panels and 13 kwh of battery for my 1760 ft2 home which had HVAC with gas heat, 2 ICE cars, gas hot water heater, and electric range.

But I knew I wanted to convert my ICE cars to EVs, gas hot water heater to heat pump electric, and HVAC with gas heat to heat pump system over time.

And I knew the federal tax credits are going away.

So I chose to get 14.6 kw of solar panels and 27 kwh of battery, with federal tax credits covering 30% of the total cost, so I’m prepared for future* electric conversions.

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* One ICE car died while I was thinking about getting a home solar system, so I replaced it with an EV and was able to include power for that EV in my system size calculations. We’ve since bought a second EV.

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How Can I Afford This?��Example: Paying for a 7.48 kW System with a 13.5 kWh battery using a 6.25 % solar loan

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You will SAVE money with solar and a battery!

  • If you size your system based on your power usage and pay for it with a 6.25% StarOne 15-year solar loan and the 30% federal tax credit, your monthly loan payment will be LESS than your current electricity bill, and you’ll be paying off a valuable asset that increases your home’s value!
  • Example: current electricity bill is $394.22/month @ $0.45/kWh for 10,176 kWh/year
  • You get a 7.48 kW solar system (17 panels @ 440 watts) and 1 Tesla Powerwall 3 battery with 13 kWh capacity
  • Up-front cost is $38,382.00. 30% federal tax credit will cover $11,514.60 of that cost. So net cost to you will be $26,867.40 for the system, plus the interest you pay on the 15-year loan.

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Source: SimplySolar

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You will SAVE money with solar and a battery!

  • You take out a StarOne solar loan for 15 years @ 6.25% APR to cover the entire system cost. Initial loan $38,382.00.
  • Your initial loan payment is $329.10 / month, and your electricity bill drops to $31.40 / month.
  • So BEFORE, you were paying $394.22/month for electricity, which is money you threw away and got ownership of nothing in return.
  • NOW, you’re paying $329.10 + $31.40 / month = $360.50 / month.
  • You’re already paying less per month, and you’re paying off a valuable asset that increases the value of your home!

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Sources: SimplySolar; StarOne solar loan calculator at https://www.starone.org/solar-loans

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You will SAVE money with solar and a battery!

  • You’re better off, your home is worth $38k more, you’ve got power during blackouts, and you’re helping cool the planet! WHY WOULD YOU NOT DO THIS?!

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* Actually you’d owe slightly less based on the payments you’d made towards loan principal already; this is a simplified illustration.

Sources: SimplySolar; StarOne solar loan calculator at https://www.starone.org/solar-loans

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What that 7.48 kW system would look like

Example system has three strings positioned on the home to provide power over the course of the day.��If you have only one sun-facing portion of your roof, all the panels can be placed there and they’ll charge the battery when illuminated.

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Source: SimplySolar

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And remember, you can get more cash by selling excess power!

The above analysis focuses only on reducing what you pay to buy electricity. You can also sell excess power back to the grid.

  • You can sign up for Virtual Power Plant (VPP) programs from Tesla and other battery providers to sell power from your battery as needed during demand events (e.g. heat waves).
  • You can sell power for a higher per-kWh rate to Silicon Valley Clean Energy during demand events.
  • You can sell power for a lower per-kWh rate to PG&E.

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Legitimate Concerns

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“I have an old 100 amp electrical box with no available slots to add a solar system inverter”�“I only have a 100 amp PG&E drop and PG&E says I must upgrade my connection to get a larger box.”

Your solar installer (or an electrician of your choice) can replace an old electrical main panel with a new, larger 200 amp electrical main panel. Or, they can add a subpanel.

This upgrade becomes part of your total solar system cost and is also eligible for the 30% federal tax credit.

When you upgrade to a 200 amp main panel, if you don’t have a 200 amp utility connection, you may need to upgrade your home connection to a 200 am PG&E drop at the same time.

Solar installers can help you think through these issues. ��NOTE: Only do this if you have to! Expenditures for solar system must be paid by 12/31 to qualify for federal tax credit!

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“My roof is old and needs to be replaced.”

True. It doesn’t make sense to install a new solar system on a roof you’ll need to replace within a few years.

So, replace your roof (using a home improvement loan if necessary) with an energy efficient Cool Roof and then install solar on the new roof.

Or, have your solar system installed by an installer such as SimplySolar who will contractually commit to remove and replace your solar panels one time at no charge when you need to replace your roof between years three and ten of the contract. ��NOTE: Only replace your roof right now if you must! Expenditures for solar system must be paid by 12/31 to qualify for federal tax credit!

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“I’m planning a remodel. Doesn’t make sense to put on solar right now. I’ll wait until after the remodel.”

I made this mistake. Knew I’d do a remodel in the future so I never put on solar until 2025. What I now understand is that:

  • a solar system installed in 2005 after I originally got HVAC would have EASILY paid for itself and saved a ton of money over the next 20 years
  • I would not have had to remove ALL the panels when I did the remodel, only those on the part of the roof being changed
  • paying my solar installer to remove some of the panels and replace them when I did the remodel would have only cost perhaps $1k (for removing just a few) or $3k (for removing them all), or less than one year’s worth of savings on my electricity bill

OOPS! I should have put on solar panels in 2005 and saved a ton of money in the last 20 years! Moral of the story: ask your solar installer about future remodel plans and what it would cost to remove/replace panels, but install a solar system now!!!

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“I don’t have cash for the up-front payment.”

This can be solved in multiple ways:

  • Take out a StarOne credit union solar loan (for people in the StarOne business area, which is essentially the SF Bay Area). Was recently 6.25% APR.
    • Use it to pay the solar installer the full up-front cost of the system.
    • Use the savings on your PG&E monthly bill to pay the monthly loan payment.
    • Instead of sending money to PG&E, you’re now paying off the cost of a solar system that will add value to your home.
  • Consider whether a new/used car loan may be your lowest-cost source of capital. (Some credit unions were recently offering auto loans as low as 3.99% APR.) You can’t take out an auto loan to pay for a solar system directly, but if you were planning to buy both a car and a solar system, holding the auto loan might be cheaper.

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“I don’t have cash for the up-front payment.” (cont’d)

Financing options, continued:

  • Home Equity Line of Credit (HELOC)
  • Loan from a permanent life insurance policy if you have one. (e.g. Northwestern Mutual 5.5% rate)
  • Loan against stock holdings. (e.g. E*Trade 8% rate)
  • Sell stock
  • Use a solar installer like SunRun that will install an entire solar system, no money down, via a Pre-Purchase Agreement (PPA).
    • You commit to buy your power from the solar installer.
    • They commit to increase the electricity rates only X%/year.
    • They sell your excess power to others.
    • You get a solar system installed with no money down and know what you’ll pay each year for your electricity.

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“I may not stay in this house long enough to reap the benefit of installing solar”

  • If people are economically rational, adding a solar system to your home immediately increases its value by the “net present value” of the future electricity cost savings over time, which is MORE than the cost of the system.
  • So if you put the example $38,000 solar system on your home, it saves buyers $330/month on their electricity bill. That means buyers can afford to pay $330/month more on a 30-year home mortgage loan. Your realtor should make sure buyers realize this.
  • That $330/month means buyers can afford to bid $55,072 more for your home than they could before you put the solar system on your home, even though the system only cost you $38,000. YOU GET YOUR ROI WHEN YOU SELL YOUR HOME!

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chat_gpt analysis of converting monthly electricity bill savings to home value

Prompt: I'm illustrating how putting a solar system on a home should increase the home's value based on the expected electricity bill savings. In the example, a 7.48 kW solar system with a Tesla Powerwall 3 battery costs $38,382.00 up-front and saves the homeowner $362.82 per month on electricity. At current home mortgage interest rates, when the buyer can pay an extra $362.82 per month, how much larger a 30-year mortgage can they afford to take out?

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chat_gpt analysis of converting monthly electricity bill savings to home value (cont’d)

To determine how much more a homebuyer could afford to borrow with an extra $362.82/month, we need to calculate the present value of those monthly payments over a 30-year mortgage at a given interest rate.

💡 Formula Used:

We use the formula for the present value of an annuity:

PV=P×1−(1+r)−nrPV = P \times \frac{1 - (1 + r)^{-n}}{r}PV=P×r1−(1+r)−n​

Where:

  • PPP = extra monthly payment = $362.82
  • rrr = monthly interest rate = annual rate / 12
  • nnn = total number of payments = 30 years × 12 = 360

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chat_gpt analysis of converting monthly electricity bill savings to home value (cont’d)

📌 Assumption:

Let’s use a current average mortgage rate of 7.0% APR (can adjust if you have a specific one). So:

r=7.0%12=0.005833r = \frac{7.0\%}{12} = 0.005833r=127.0%​=0.005833

Now plug into the formula:

PV=362.82×1−(1+0.005833)−3600.005833PV = 362.82 \times \frac{1 - (1 + 0.005833)^{-360}}{0.005833}PV=362.82×0.0058331−(1+0.005833)−360​ PV≈362.82×151.73=$55,071.65PV \approx 362.82 \times 151.73 = \boxed{\$55,071.65}PV≈362.82×151.73=$55,071.65​

✅ Final Answer:

At a 7.0% interest rate, an additional $362.82/month in electricity bill savings would allow a buyer to afford about $55,072 more on their 30-year mortgage.

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“Solar won’t work if your roof is shaded.”

Answer: it depends on how much your roof is shaded. Solar installers can use satellite (or if necessary, drone) image data to accurately assess how much effect shading will have on the power production of solar panels on your roof.

On simple solar panel strings, power production may be limited by the production of the least-productive panel. That’s why you put in place multiple strings in different locations at different angles.

If you have a somewhat shady roof, you can use on-panel inverters (such as those from SolarEdge) to eliminate the “least productive panel” bottleneck problem.

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Example of a shade map

Solar installers can automatically estimate the shade on your roof from satellite photos and position solar panels to balance power production over the course of the day.

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Source: SimplySolar

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False Arguments Against Installing Solar Systems

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“Solar doesn’t save you money”

Nonsense.

  • You have access to many years of data on your monthly, daily, and hourly electricity usage through your pge.com account. So you can accurately predict future usage.
  • Software can accurately predict the expected daily and monthly production of a solar system based on:
    • how many panels of what size you install pointing in which directions at what angles
    • the number of separate solar strings (or use of on-panel inverters)
    • the path of the sun
    • the shade on your roof
  • So it’s easy to predict how much money you’ll continue to pay PG&E for grid connection and usage, and how much money you’ll save.

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“If you think solar will save you money, you’re believing the lies of solar installers.”

I don’t trust solar installers. I trust:

  • my last 12 months of hourly PG&E electricity usage data
  • the laws of physics, which do not change and determine how much power solar panels will produce
    • path of the sun through the sky will not change
    • productivity of panels is warranted by manufacturer and installer not to fall below 90% of rated power after first 12 months
      • you can get panels that are warranted to produce 87% of rated power 25 years after installation

Also, get at least two bids and compare them.

You can also get an independent assessment from Silicon Valley Clean Energy

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“With NEM3, solar no longer makes sense.”

What’s true:

  • Under the older NEM2 rate schedule, you could sell excess power back to PG&E at the same rate they sold it to you.
  • Utilities lobbied effectively, and legislators changed the system so you sell power back to PG&E at about 10% of the price they sell it to you. (More during peak summer months.)

Reality: That doesn’t mean you can’t save money with solar. It just means you need to have a battery so you can time-shift usage, storing power in the afternoons when you make extra electricity and buying any grid power you need at the cheapest daily rates, which are midnight - 3 p.m. if you’re on a solar rate plan.

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Buy and Own Your Solar Systems or Use a Power Purchase Agreement (PPA)?

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Arguments for and against Power Purchase Agreement

Arguments for:

  • No up-front cost to you, if you wish
  • Avoids need to take out a loan
    • Might help if you’ve got a lower credit rating

Arguments against:

  • Your electricity price will increase each year (likely 3%) according to the contract.
  • Having PPA installer-owned solar system on house can complicate sale of your home
  • You will save less money vs. owning your system and capturing all the savings

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chat_gpt research prompts for PPA

SAMPLE PROMPTS:�How does a power purchase agreement work?��give me a comparison of a ppa vs. buying/financing my solar system�

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DIY Solar?��(and why not to do this)

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Install a solar system yourself (or with minimal help from an electrician)?

It is possible to install a solar system yourself (maybe with some help from an electrician to avoid electrocuting yourself in the main panel). You can even buy cheap used solar panels from Canadian Solar in Oakland that may produce 90% of rated power. Why I chose not to:

  • I’m not a roofer and am not experienced drilling holes in my roof.
  • You can hurt your back lugging 60 pound solar panel on to the roof.
  • You can’t buy all home batteries retail or at volume discounts.
  • If you DIY solar, you can only get tax credit for the equipment, not for your own time.
  • I’d need to hire an electrician to go into the main electrical box.
  • I’m busy with job, home, family.

→ I chose to have it done by professionals in two days and to pay for the work via federal tax credit and loan paid down via PG&E electricity bill savings.

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chat_gpt research prompt on DIY solar

SAMPLE PROMPT:�if i install solar system diy, does it qualify for federal tax credit?��

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How to Pick a Solar Installer

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My approach to picking an installer

Develop a list of candidate companies:

  • Ask on NextDoor and Facebook what installers people used and would still recommend (or not recommend!)
  • Ask your neighbors, friends, current and former coworkers
  • Include at least one PPA provider if you want to consider that option
  • Search on Yelp and look for highly-rated local installers

Then, evaluate the companies on your list:

  • Look at Yelp ratings
  • Look at BBB ratings

Narrow down to a short list of companies with lots of ratings and high average ratings.

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Sample first email to short listed solar installers

I would like to get a bid from you on solar panels + solar battery.

I own a [HOME SQUARE FOOTAGE] square foot single family detached wood frame single story home at [FULL ADDRESS]. It has a low-pitch asphalt roof in excellent condition with 20-30 years left to run on its warranty. Almost no shade of roof. $471 electricity (only) PG&E bill averaged over last 12 months. Just purchased our first EV. I likely will replace other ICE car to an EV as well this year. I want to install 11+ kW of solar panels on my roof and at least one home battery to support load shifting and provide power when PG&E goes down.

I plan to take out a solar loan to pay for this and pay down system cost over time with savings. I have Tier One credit and can arrange own financing from StarOne Credit Union.

I’m still investigating optimal sizing for solar panels and battery. Please size the system assuming I have two EVs because we'll probably replace our second car with an EV this year. I plan to replace conventional gas/electric HVAC with heat pump based system in future when HVAC fails. I plan to replace gas hot water heater with heat pump electric this year to capture the federal tax credit for that. Therefore I lean towards potentially oversizing the solar panels a bit vs. what a customer might install by default and would like to understand your baseline proposal as well as the cost of additional solar on the roof and extra battery capacity on the margin.

I have a 200A PG&E drop, the largest main panel I could buy in 2022 during a renovation, and a 100A subpanel.��I have attached my most recent PG&E bill and my electricity and gas usage data for the last 12 months.��My phone number is [PHONE NUMBER]. I look forward to talking with you. Thanks!

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Meet in person with each solar installer sales rep and then with their designer

Things to verify:

  • Must you upgrade your PG&E electrical drop?
  • Must you upgrade your main panel or add a subpanel?
  • Is the PG&E meter far enough away from the main panel?
    • When main panel door is fully open, PG&E now wants at least 3 inches of clearance between the open door and the PG&E meter. (Your solar installer can help you with workarounds for legacy doors that are closer than this.)
  • Where will the batteries go on the house?
    • Per National Electric Code, must have 36” of space between battery and nearest “portal” (door or window), so blank garage or alley walls work well.
  • Where will the conduit run from the batteries to the main panel?
    • Avoid routing conduit on high-visibility exterior front/rear of the house if possible.
    • Inside the garage and through raised crawl space is ideal.
    • If you have a slab foundation, curse your architect.

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Meet in person with each solar installer sales rep and then with their estimator/designer

More things to verify:

  • Recommended size of system in kW
  • Recommended amount of battery capacity in kWh
  • Do they guarantee system power production at 12 months?
  • Do they assume the roof warranty for the places where they penetrate the roof to install the brackets?
  • Do the solar panels warranty their system production at 25 years?
  • How long is the battery’s warranty?
  • How long is the solar installer’s warranty on their installation and workmanship?
  • How soon can they perform the installation after signing contract?
  • How long should the installation take?

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Get at least three bids

Round up the written bids

  • At least two highly-rated firms
  • Maybe one lower-rated firm for comparison
  • One highly-rated Power Purchase Agreement provider if you want to consider that approach

Negotiate. Use lower bid for leverage.

But don’t go with a provider if:

  • they have low ratings
  • you have a bad feeling about any of the staff you worked with
  • you feel you’re being pressured for a quick signature

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Don’t overpay for solar!

One scenario you want to avoid is paying an above-market price for your solar system.��Use EnergySage to familiarize yourself with lowball “bottom of market” bids, typically from lower-rated firms.��Get multiple bids from highly-rated firms to cross-check.��Highly-rated installers don’t get high ratings by overcharging people. So pick a firm with many online ratings and a high average rating!

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Don’t underpay for solar! �REMEMBER: “low bid” may mean HIGH COST!

The second scenario you want to avoid is working with a fly-by-night firm that screws up the job and fails to get it done and working promptly.��So pick a firm with many online ratings and a high average rating!

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What I Ultimately Chose

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My choices

  • Installer: SimplySolar
    • Recommended by smart friend
    • Highly rated on Yelp
    • High Better Business Bureau rating
    • Offered me the best value on my system
    • Completed panel and battery installation in two days
  • Panels: 14.5 kW (33 JA panels * 440 watts / panel = 14.52 kW)
  • Battery: 27 kwH Tesla Powerwall 3 (13.5 primary + 13.5 add-on)

Note: This is a larger system than installers would normally recommend. But I was planning for full home electrification: second EV, heat pump water heater, and heat pump heating/cooling.

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Getting a Solar Loan

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StarOne Credit Union Solar Loan Key Features

  • Apply here: https://www.starone.org/solar-loans
  • Only available to people in the StarOne Credit Union service area (essentially the nine-county Bay Area)
  • Take out the loan for the full cost of your system.
  • When I last checked, StarOne was willing to re-amortize the remaining balance of your loan FOR FREE over your chosen loan period if you are able to pay off some of the loan in advance so you get a lower monthly payment based on the lower balance remaining.

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How to Work with your Solar Installer

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Preventing problems

  • Have one spouse handle all communication with the project team to avoid misunderstandings due to miscommunication between spouses.
  • Be at home all the days that work is being done.
  • Meet with each group of workers (roofers, electrician) personally when they show up.
  • Walk each group through the whole plan. Where will the batteries be? Where will the conduit run?
    • Make sure you explicitly agree with the electrician about the entire path that the conduit will be routed. Don’t rely on someone else to tell them the path.
  • Walk through the project multiple times during installation and keep an eye on progress. (Where is conduit running? etc.)

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Post-Installation Action Items

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Final steps

  • Must pass final city inspection.
  • THEN you can turn on system.
  • Pay final bill to solar installer.
  • Give solar installer a positive reference on Yelp for good work!
  • Make sure that Silicon Valley Clean Energy (not PG&E) is your official power provider because they will pay you more than PG&E for power when they need it
  • PG&E will pay you less for your remaining excess production
  • In May of next year, change the “true up” date for your power bill to June 15th to maximize your savings on credits. (Can only change this once and can only do it during the preceding month!)

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Final steps (cont’d)

  • If you got battery from a vendor supporting the Virtual Power Plant (VPP) program, see if you’re eligible to and want to join: https://www.tesla.com/support/energy/virtual-power-plant/dsgs
    • Note: Participating in the VPP program may mean that VPP will take all your solar production and stored battery capacity during demand events and you’ll use grid power for your own needs, so this is best if you don’t need or are willing to turn off your air conditioning during VPP demand events.

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What About the Self-Generation Incentive Program? (SGIP)

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SGIP is suspended right now for lack of funds

  • SGIP is a state program administered through the California Public Utilities Commission (CPUC) that incentivizes homeowners to install home batteries and sell power back to the grid during demand events
  • It has limited budget and all its funds for 2025 have been committed, so the program is currently not accepting new applications
  • When the program returns, some believe it may be focused on supporting homeowners in rural areas who frequently experience Public Safety Power Shutdown events, so you may or may not be eligible depending on where you live.
  • Stay tuned for details!

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Ongoing Maintenance

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System maintenance

  • Rinse off your solar panels monthly.
  • Monitor your solar power production
  • If it drops more than you’d expect based on month of year and weather, you may need to clean off your solar panels.
  • Your solar installer may recommend an annual system inspection.

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Other Things to Consider

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Having a home battery also gives you power during power outages and after earthquakes

  • Ordinary PG&E outages happen from time to time, but if �your home is runs off a home battery, you’ll still have power!
  • Power might be interrupted by a major earthquake (Hayward Fault, San Andreas Fault, Los Altos Fault) for a longer period of time. Generating your own power with solar panels and having a home battery increases your ability to keep your family safe and comfortable at home after a major earthquake.
  • Make your home a resilience point for your neighborhood! After a major earthquake, you can help neighbors without power to charge their devices (mobile phones, CPAP batteries, oxygen systems, medical devices, etc.).

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If you replace your roof, get a Cool Roof that can reflect 50-90% of heat back into space for 5-15% more up-front!

  • Can reduce indoor temperature by 2-10℉
  • Can reduce air conditioning costs by 10-30%
  • May last longer because of reduced UV absorption and cooler roof temperature
  • There’s was at one time a federal tax credit of $1500 towards the materials (shingles) but not towards installation labor, but I’m not sure that exists anymore. Check if considering!
  • https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/cool-roofs

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Source: chat_gpt

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Buy a new or certified pre-owned EV!

  • Under CA law, certified pre-owned vehicles are eligible for Lemon Law; “used” are not!
  • PG&E has a $1000 rebate for purchasing a used EV!

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How solar system and EV savings work together

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Source of savings

Savings Amount / Month ($)

Electricity savings

$361

No more gas for Volvo

$263

No more gas for Camry Hybrid

$60

No more oil changes ($130 each time * 4x/year)

$44

Monthly Volvo Maintenance

$100

Monthly Camry Maintenance

$100

TOTAL SAVINGS:

$906 / month

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Don’t overlook potential savings!

Check out all these sources of incentives, savings, rebates, and credits:

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Make sure to stack your incentives together!

  • Choose a home Level 2 EV charger that qualifies for PG&E charger requirements and any applicable Silicon Valley Clean Energy incentives and you get both! (some may reduce the value of others when you claim multiple)
  • Shift from a natural gas hot water heater to heat pump water heater and check for incentives from SVCE, PG&E, and state
  • Electrify your entire home and get:
    • SVCE incentives
    • California $4250 from Whole Building Electrification Alterations
    • PG&E incentives

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chat_gpt research prompts on stacking PG&E and Silicon Valley Clean Energy incentives

SAMPLE PROMPT:�I am a residential homeowner and will add solar panels to my roof and a home battery shortly. If I sign up for both the PG&E DSGS program and the Silicon Valley Clean Energy NEM-SVCE programs, how do the two programs interact?��What residential level 2 charging equipment qualifies for both PG&E Residential Charging Solutions Rebate and silicon valley clean energy rebate?��

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Additional incentives and rebates are available for people on lower/fixed incomes!

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Summary

If you put solar and a battery on your home and pay for the entire cost using a 6.25% solar loan, you will:

  • have more money in your pocket every month
  • immediately add to the value of your home by the total value of the solar system
  • be vesting ownership of the solar system by paying off the loan over time
  • help to reduce CO2 and methane emissions and fight climate change

WHY IS EVERY HOMEOWNER NOT DOING THIS RIGHT NOW?!?! DO YOU LIKE PAYING MORE MONEY FOR ELECTRICITY THAN YOU HAVE TO?!?!

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