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Pollinator Gardens

Basics of how to prepare and care for them

West Windsor Environmental Commission

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Why plant a native pollinator garden?

  • Pollinators are essential in plant reproduction
    • This group is in crisis across the globe

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Continued

  • Habitat loss, fragmentation (emergence of discontinuities in an organism’s environment), widespread use of chemical pesticides
    • Native pollinators are most sensitive to these pressures
    • They require specific plants to survive, threatened by habitat loss and invasive species

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Basics

  • Choose native plants to help pollinators
  • Know the components of a native pollinator garden
  • Do your research before you plant
  • Conduct a site analysis
  • Prepare the site
  • Lay out the garden, choose plants
  • Plant the natives

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1. Choose native plants to help native pollinators

Many plants used to support pollinators are either ineffective or may cause harm to native pollinators for several reasons:

  • May only support adult cycle -- provides nectar for mature pollinators, but no food for larvae of native species (i.e. butterfly bush)
  • May support insects that supplant local pollinator populations (which need very specific plants to grow and thrive)
  • Are grown using systemic pesticides or neonicotinoids (water soluble chemicals that kill or harm pollinators)

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2. Know the components of a native pollinator garden

  • Adult Food: diverse selection of native plants with “abundant pollen and nectar across growing season, planted in groups for easy foraging”
  • Baby Food: host plants for butterfly and moth larvae
  • Water: muddy spots where insects can access water and soil minerals + well-drained places for ground nesting (avoid standing water to remove mosquito breeding grounds)
  • Habitat: nesting materials and other protective habitats (hollow-stemmed plants, decaying wood, leaves, grasses, bare soil) to help support entire life cycle of threatened pollinators
  • Protection: only use plants grown in chemical-free environments, and spread awareness!

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3. Do your research before you plant

Location: consider which pollinators you are aiming this garden towards (basking in the sun vs. partial sun with protection)

Identifying soil type and sunlight: sandy + well-drained vs. clay-like + wet

Choosing plants: varieties of milkweed and wildflowers are native to your area and do well in your soil

Seeds vs. plants: using seeds or plants will depend on your timeline and budget

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4. Conduct a site analysis

Sunlight: Full sun (six or more hours per day), partial sun (three to six hours), shade (few hours of sunlight)

  • Look at timing as well (midday vs. evening) -- strength of sun

Soil: Test to determine characteristics -- composition, pH balance, nutrient levels

  • Do NOT try to amend soil with chemical fertilizers (releases harmful greenhouse gases): use only organic compounds

Moisture Levels, Wind Exposure

Wildlife: Consider pressures like deer + rodents (deer-repellent, pollinator-friendly plants)

Aesthetics: Put plants where they will complement your landscaping scheme

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5. Prepare the Site

  • Remove all sod + non-desired plants (especially invasive species)
  • Till soil to make it easier to work with
  • If necessary, add topsoil
  • Add 1”or 2” organic compost on top of existing soil
    • Select only fresh compost to ensure the microbes are still alive

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6. Lay out the garden and choose plants

  • Select variety of flowers that bloom throughout the season, plants that support larvae, and species with protective habits
  • Consider growing habits of plant selections
  • ~1 plant per square foot
    • Dense planting → helps lock in moisture and reduce weeds
  • Select plants in smaller containers versus larger gallon sizes (more economical and easier to plant)

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  • Taller plants toward center (easier to reach)
  • Amass 4 to 5 plants together (pollinators can forage better)
  • Group moisture loving plants together to save water
  • Disperse color and bloom time throughout garden
  • Leave border margin of several inches for spread and mulch

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7. Plant the natives

  • Lay plants out according to design
    • Helps maintain even spacing, allows for last minute tweaks
  • Break up root system
  • Use trowel or hori-hori knife to dig hole deep enough for existing root system
  • Place plant in hole, fill with dirt → REPEAT FOR ALL
  • Water entire garden
    • Water wand is recommended for new plants, can be more delicate
  • Add layer of natural mulch (i.e. pine bark)
    • Avoid dyed mulch or that with big chunks, don’t mulch right up to the plant

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8. Care for pollinator garden

  • Water often during first year
    • Can buy rain gauge to help maintain recommended inch of water per week
  • Water smaller gardens by hand to keep an eye on weeds’ and plants’ progress
  • Weed by hand
  • In fall, leave seed heads and stalks to provide food and habitat for birds and overwintering insects
    • Can also add leaf mulch
  • Cut back in spring, add compost
  • Never use herbicides, insecticides, or chemical fertilizers

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Native Plants: 10 Alternatives to Invasives

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Native Plants: 10 Alternatives to Invasives

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Native Plants: 10 Alternatives to Invasives

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Native Plants: 10 Alternatives to Invasives

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Native Plants: 10 Alternatives to Invasives

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Native Plants: 10 Alternatives to Invasives

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Native Plants: 10 Alternatives to Invasives

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Native Plants: 10 Alternatives to Invasives

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Native Plants: 10 Alternatives to Invasives

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Native Plants: 10 Alternatives to Invasives

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West Windsor Community Park Pollinator Garden

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Emily’s Pollinator Garden (off of Hendrickson Drive)

Near Roger’s Arboretum

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References

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Good Luck!