ADDING STRUCTURE:

Corsets, Hoop Skirts, and Beyond

with Enayla Cosplay

1.

STRUCTURAL ELEMENTS

MATERIALS

• Interfacing: stiffening flat areas (fusible/sew-in)
• Bondable webbing: fusing two fabrics together, stiffening, removing stretch
• Horsehair: stiffening hemlines, creating hem ripple
• Tulle: add skirt volume
• Boning: reinforce seams, support heavy structures, ETC!

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TYPES OF BONING

• Spiral vs. Flat/Spring
• Spiral: multidirectional/curved seams
• Spring: straight seams
• Metal vs. Plastic
• Metal: strength/durability
• Plastic: cheaper, lightweight, washable
• Hoop boning
• Hoop: hoop skirts, bustles, sturdy support
• Tipping and finishing
• Metal tips
• Rubberize tips (plastidip/tipping fluid)
• Plumber’s tape

2.

CORSETS

CORSETS: CHARACTERISTICS

• Character examples:
• Elizabeth (Bioshock)
• Esmerelda (Hunchback of ND)

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• Characterized by:
• Cinched waists
• Emphasized hips
• Strapless bust support

CORSETS: CONSTRUCTION

• Anatomy:
• Busk in front
• Grommets and lacing in back
• Insert bones into seams (‘boning channels’) via seam allowance or twill tape

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• Types/Alternatives:
• Overbust
• Underbust
• Buskless

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• Pattern suggestions:
• Corsets by Caroline, Atelier Sylphe (Etsy)
• McCalls 2032 (underbust)
• Draft your own! foundationsrevealed.com

3.

STAYS

STAYS: CHARACTERISTICS

• Character examples:
• Catherine (The Great)
• Edwina (Bridgerton)

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• Characterized by:
• Flat front
• Elevated bust
• ‘Ice cream cone’ torso
• Slightly cinched waist (except short stays)

STAYS: CONSTRUCTION

• Anatomy:
• Stiff linen/buckram layers
• Reed or (synthetic) whalebone
• Bound in twill/bias tape
• Spiral back lacing

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• Types/Alternatives:
• Long stays
• Short (regency) stays
• Front-lacing stays

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• Pattern suggestions:
• Butterick 4254
• Scroop Patterns ‘Augusta’ stays
• Redthreaded long & short stays
• Patterns of Fashion 5

4.

HOOP SKIRTS

HOOP SKIRTS: CHARACTERISTICS

• Character examples:
• Cinderella (Disney)
• Princess Peach (Mario)

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• Characterized by:
• Bell-shaped, even volume on all sides
• Huge skirts without a lot of weight/bulk

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HOOP SKIRTS: CONSTRUCTION

• Anatomy:
• Sturdy waistband with ties or elastic
• Rings of progressively larger hoops, suspended by fabric or twill tape
• Heavy hoop boning threaded into channels
• Can be folded by twisting into figure-eight

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• Types/Alternatives:
• Elliptical hoops (combination hoop + bustle)
• Short/half-length hoops
• Plastic zip-ties instead of boning

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• Pattern suggestions:
• Simplicity 9764
• Truly Victorian TV103

5.

BUSTLES

BUSTLES: CHARACTERIZATION

• Character examples:
• Dolores (Westworld)
• Jane (Tarzan)
• Victorian/Steampunk

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• Characterized by:
• Partial hoop skirts
• No fullness at front, some fullness at sides, lots of fullness in the back

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BUSTLES: CONSTRUCTION

• Anatomy:
• Basically, half hoop skirt
• Ties between ends of boning to hold shape
• Rests against waist/bottom

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• Types/Alternatives:
• Full
• Lobster tail
• Bum roll

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• Pattern suggestions:
• American Duchess (free tutorial): blog.americanduchess.com
• Truly Victorian TV108
• Draft your own!
• metmuseum.org historical references

6.

PETTICOATS

PETTICOATS: CHARACTERIZATION

• Character examples:
• Cersei (GoT)
• Snow White (Disney)
• Sakizo characters

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• Characterized by:
• Soft volume to skirt
• Hide hoop boning

PETTICOATS: CONSTRUCTION

• Anatomy:
• Full skirt with layers of ruffles or tulle

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• Types/Alternatives:
• Full fabric (ruffles)
• Full tulle (layers)
• Combination fabric and tulle

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• Pattern suggestions:
• Truly Victorian TV170
• Simplicity 5006

7.

APPLICATIONS

OTHER USES OF BONING

• Harem pant structure
• Flaring out coats
• Stand-up collars
• Tall boots
• Anything else!

PRACTICALITY & CARE

• Washing is hard
• Metal boning can rust
• Hoop boning too large to fit in washing machine (make it removable!)
• Wear undergarments, store in clean places
• Plastic boning may warp at high temperatures
• Iron-on interfacing/heat-n-bond: avoid re-ironing
• Fusible materials will wear off (reinforce with stitching)

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