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Prescott Climbing Community Updates

Hosted by:

Kevin Keith &

Mac McCaleb

1/28/2024

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Agenda

  • Introductions & Overview
  • History of PCC
  • Areas of Concern
  • Policies of Interest
  • Actions for Membership
  • Summary & Closing

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Introduction & Overview

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Kevin Keith

Board Member

Amanda Lane

Board Member

Mac McCaleb

Board Member

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The main objectives of today are:

  • Inform local Arizona climbers of current and upcoming situations that can change access to climbing areas in the Prescott, AZ area.
  • Establish open lines of communication and a support network.
  • Form Teams within the PCC to support its goals.

Introduction & Overview

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History of PCC

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History of PCC

Established in 1991, PCC was formed when there was an increase in climbers visiting the areas and Peregrine Falcon closures were starting.

Access Fund was created in the same time period.

Re-established in 2015, local climbers coordinated efforts to become an official LCO.

1991

Early 2015

Early 2016

Late 2016

Incorporated as a non-profit in 2016, became official LCO of the Access Fund. Had ideas for more events/projects, but became disparate.

Late 2015

First High Rappel Dells Clean-up

Second Clean-up at Watson Lake

Late 2018

Graffiti Removal at Groom Creek

GM Falcon Data Collection Begins

Late 2021

GM Falcon Data Collection Ended

TODAY

Solidify PCC’s position to be an organization that represents the interests of climbers that recreate in the Prescott area.

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Areas of Concern

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Upper Sullivan’s Canyon

BLUF; 10-Acres of Upper Sullivan’s is For Sale

Options:

    • Fundraise to purchase land outright (~$350-400k)
    • Fundraise to secure position in land sale with Access Fund, Trust for Public Lands, and Land & Water Conservation Fund
    • Abstain

Pro’s/Con’s Discussion Points

    • Obtaining the capital/how it works
    • Desire from Climbing Community to secure climbing access
    • Long-term Management Plan of this area + Lower Sullivan’s Canyon

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Upper Sullivan’s Canyon

Pro’s/Con’s Discussion Points

    • Obtaining the capital/how it works
    • Desire from Climbing Community to secure climbing access
    • Long-term Management Plan of this area + Lower Sullivan’s Canyon

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Lower Sullivan’s Canyon

BLUF; Land owner has placed new fence along property line.

Options:

    • Fact-finding was completed with AZ State Lands, owner had professional survey completed and fence is legal.
    • Secure long-term access to Lower Sullivan’s via lease of State Trust Land(s)
    • Abstain

Pro’s/Con’s Discussion Points

    • Obtaining the capital/how it works
    • Desire from Climbing Community to secure climbing access
    • Long-term Management Plan of this area + Upper Sullivan’s Canyon

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Lower Sullivan’s Canyon

Pro’s/Con’s Discussion Points

    • Obtaining the capital/how it works
    • Desire from Climbing Community to secure climbing access
    • Long-term Management Plan of this area + Upper Sullivan’s Canyon

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Granite Mountain

BLUF; After 7-year Peregrine Falcon Survey, agreement falters for signage requirement.

Options:

    • Private and Corporate Stakeholders are re-opening discussions (Arjun H. & GMG)
    • Begin with the temporary lift of complete closure and then PNF will ensure that climber’s “self-police” to avoid Peregrine Falcon nests.
    • Abstain

Pro’s/Con’s Discussion Points

    • Need updated community communication methods
    • Desire from Climbing Community to secure climbing access
    • Long-term plan for working with PNF and Peregrine Falcon Closures

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Granite Dells

BLUF; Bolts are coming of age and new routes are being established at record pace.

Review:

Revisit:

    • Creation of Anchor Team to take lead on 1:1 replacement of old hardware in the Dells as well as clean-up after mishaps. (Ex. Corndog & Alpenglow Walls)

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Policies of Interest

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USFS/NPS Fixed Anchor Policy

  • On November 17, 2023, the US Forest Service (USFS) and National Park Service (NPS) released two separate “Climbing Management Plan” draft documents.
  • There is a major concern among climbers and Local Climbing Organizations (LCOs) that climbing access and climber safety will be affected by these two plans.
  • Access Fund has a press release on their website that contains an initial discussion and reaction amongst the greater climbing community. Access Fund has also released their Wilderness Climbing FAQ regarding these two draft plans, providing answers to questions on the plans, and some information about two bills currently before Congress that support outdoor climbing and recreation:
    • Protecting America’s Rock Climbing Act (PARCA) in the House and America’s Outdoor Recreation Act (AORA) in the Senate.

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JANUARY 30th DEADLINE

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City of Prescott�Climbing Management Plan

BLUF; City of Prescott officially recognizes recreational climbing on the City of Prescott Tourism web page.

https://www.experienceprescott.com/outdoors/rock-climbing/

  • Input from PCC (Local Climbing Community) is requested for the Draft Climbing Management Plan
  • Discussion Points
    • Desired/Undesired
    • Needs/Wants

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Actions for Membership

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Actions for Membership

Membership of the Prescott Climbers Coalition is a voluntary role.

Discussions:

  • Options for Sullivan’s Canyon
  • Desired in CoP Climbing Management Plan
  • Lines of Communication / Support Network
  • Ideas for Events & Fundraising efforts
  • Web & Social Media Presence
  • Maintaining long-standing PCC Members

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Creation of PCC Teams

Anchor Team

  • Lead trainings
  • Maintain equipment and route lists
  • Obtain new hardware

Access Team

Media Team

Events Team

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  • Lead land acquisition effort
  • Maintain communication with land managers
  • Obtain funding and create strategies for access

  • Lead upgrades to platforms
  • Maintain communication with climbers
  • Maintain informative web page and social media presence

  • Lead fundraising efforts
  • Plan & execute community events
  • Create events for volunteer/stewardship efforts

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Summary & Closing

Thank you for attending!

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EIN: 30-0914323

prescottclimberscoalition@gmail.com