Hair Damage &

Treatment

Ms. Mukti

HOD , PG Depart ment of

COSMETOLOGY

Hair analysis is performed by observation, uses the senses of sight, touch, hearing and smell. The four most important factors to consider are texture, porosity, elasticity and density. Other factors include natural growth pattern and degree of oiliness or dryness�

HAIR ANALYSIS

HAIR TEXTURE

• Thickness or diameter of the individual hair strand ( compare a thin rope to a thick rope or a piece of thread to a piece of yarn )

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• Coarse – largest diameter; stronger than fine hair; usually requires more processing time & may be resistant to processing

• Medium – most common and is considered normal; does not pose any special problems. It is thinner than coarse hair and thicker than fine

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• hairFine – smallest diameter & is more fragile; easier to process; more susceptible to damage

HAIR DENSITY

Measures the number of individual hair strands on one square inch of the scalpLow – thin hairMedium – average or normalHigh – dense or thick hairAverage – 2200 hairs/square inch, average head of hair contains about 100,000 individual hairs strands. Number varies by hair color .�

POROSITY

Ability of the hair to absorb moisture; directly related to condition of the cuticle layerLow porosity – considered resistant; require more alkalinity in solutionsAverage porosity – normal hair; chemical services will normally process as expectedHigh porosity – overly porous; often the result of over-processing; is damaged, dry, fragile, & brittle. Chemical services require less alkaline solutions w/a lower pH to prevent additional over processing�

ELASTICITY

The ability of the hair to stretch & return to its original length without breaking. It indicates the strength of the side bonds that hold the hair’s individual fibers in placeNormal elasticity – will stretch up to 50% of its original length when wetLow elasticity – hair is brittle & breaks easily; will not hold a curl; the result of weak side bonds, probably as a result of over-procecssing

DRY HAIR & SCALP

Caused by inactive sebaceous glands; aggravated by dry winter or desert climateAppears dull, dry, lifelessAvoid frequent shampooingAlso avoid strong soaps, detergents, or products w/high alcohol content�

 OILY HAIR & SCALP

Caused by overactive sebaceous glands; characterized by greasy building on scalp & oily coating on hairClarifying shampoos helpWell-balanced dietExerciseRegular, frequent shampooingGood personal hygiene. Avoid strong soaps, detergents, or products w/high content

TYPES OF DAMAGED HAIR

HEAT DAMAGE

Heat styling should be done sparingly to maintain the integrity of your hair. Realistically, any form of heat can damage hair (yes, even if you only straighten your hair once a year.) This includes blow drying, flat ironing, curling, and even too much sun exposure. Anything hotter than 365°F will burn the hair indefinitely no matter what your texture is, so choosing tools that come with a temperature dial is the best way to control the amount of heat that comes in contact with your hair.

HOW TO REPAIR HEAT DAMAGE:

• Reduce or eliminate applying  heat on previously damaged areas
• incorporate a weekly deep conditioning routine
• Trim damaged hair every six weeks until hair grows out
• Prep hair with a heat protectant each time before styling�

CHEMICAL DAMAGE

When permanent color and other chemical processes are applied to the hair, it can cause irreversible damage if not done correctly. This includes highlights, permanent hair color, relaxers and perms. Before having a chemical service done it’s important to consider the condition of your hair pre-treatment— it should have good elasticity, proper hydration, and an even porosity. Once hair has been processed you may notice a change in the way it feels and behaves in different environmental conditions, such as humidity.

HOW TO REPAIR CHEMICAL DAMAGE:

• Use sulfate-free shampoo to cleanse hair
• Add more time in between appointments (ie, highlights every six months vs. every two months)
• Reduce heat exposure to damaged ends
• Incorporate weekly deep conditioning treatments into your routine

PHYSICAL DAMAGE

Physical damage can compromise the outer cuticle layer of the hair. Friction from the wrong styling tools, sleeping on harsh fabrics, and rough brushing can all contribute to small rips and tears along the hair shaft. Once split, hair can continue to tear upwards if not trimmed regularly. When this type of damage occurs, hair that was once shiny can appear dull, frizzy, and feel dry.

HOW TO REPAIR PHYSICAL DAMAGE:

• Use soft hair elastics for braids or ponytails instead of tight rubber bands

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• Deep condition with hair oil or use as an overnight treatment

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• Use a leave-in conditioner when detangling with a brush  

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• Trim split ends every 6-8 weeks until damage grows out

SPLIT ENDS

You don't need a microscope to spot split ends. A few telltale signs can help point to the problem. According to Rachel Bodt, a colorist in New York City, you'll know there is an issue "when the end of a hair strand is split into two or more heads or if the hair shaft feels rough due to little microchips," she tells Allure. "You’ll know there is an issue when the hair is in a weaker state. Plus, it will tangle a lot more with split ends."

COLOR DAMAGE

Even taking a break from regular foils won't undo years of lifting and stripping away color — you just have to wait for the color or bleach to grow out to completely get rid of the damage. But there's a good way to make sure your color causes as minimal damage as possible: Find a professional who cares about the condition of your hair.

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THINNING OR HAIR LOSS

Braids and tight ponytails can lead to loss, too. "Pulling at the hair, or causing traction, can weaken the hair and follicle, contributing to hair loss," says Fusco. Take a break from taut styles to reduce tension and preserve the root.

If you're experiencing hair loss, Fusco recommends booking an appointment with your dermatologist. "Your dermatologist may recommend a range of treatments that include supplements, topical agents like minoxidil, low-level light therapy like HairMax, and platelet-rich plasma therapy."

THANK

YOU