Unicorn Peak Accident

Pre-Trip

• Discussed fitness levels of all participants. Originally had planned a climb of Rainier via Emmons Glacier but shifted to Unicorn Peak due to two members recently having COVID.
• Chose a peak that two of the three team members had previously climbed multiple times. The third member had done extensive research on all Tatoosh routes (ICS Spring Outing planning).
• Prepared and reviewed a detailed prospectus.
• Watched weather patterns, checked forecasts, got beta from other climbers.
• Drove up the day before to ensure an early start.

Morning of Climb

• Due to recent avalanches in the immediate vicinity of the route and warm weather, we chose to start early, ~6am.
• We knew there would be a Mazama group climbing that day, so we arrived at the trailhead with enough time to sort gear and still beat the large group.
• Ensured that we had sufficient gear for rock protection at the summit block.
• Double checked that we had a first aid kit and emergency communication device (InReach Mini) prior to starting climb.

TH to Summit Block

• Made good, quick progress. All team members felt strong and we moved efficiently.
• Noticed avy debris and a few rocks going up the gully, and decided to put on helmets.
• Found a thin snow bridge after the first steep snow section. Chose to traverse left around the snow bridge and climb a slightly more exposed section with deeper snow.
• Arrived at summit block and discussed who would lead and which route we would choose.
• Standard route is Open Books Crack which is 5.0
• Other routes range from Class 4 scramble to 5.6

• Sam was the only member of our team who had not previously climbed Unicorn Peak. Roberta had climbed once and Petra had climbed four times always via the 5.0 Open Books summit block route.
• Leading up to 5.6 trad was well within the skill set of both Roberta and Sam.
• Sam chose to lead and selected the 5.6 Roof route. This is within their comfort zone in terms of trad leading.
• We discussed the potential rock fall and chose belaying position slightly to the right of the fall zone.

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The Accident

• Terrain was relatively easy (slab) and route was mostly well protected with one slight run out section just under the roof.
• Sam may have deviated slightly from the route, traversing left instead of right.
• Rock quality seemed acceptable within Cascades standard, but Sam was aware and testing.
• Despite testing, a big boulder (microwave size) came lose once weighted, barely missing climbers below. Sam called “ROCK” and we both ducked.
• Tricam (2^nd piece of protection) held at first, then blew. First piece (cam) stayed put but was 2-3 ft too far down to avoid decking.

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Immediate Aftermath

• Sam fell approximately 20 feet, landing on their back upside down.
• Immediately attempted to stabilize them which was very challenging on uneven rocks. Roberta stabilized while Petra called 9-1-1 on Roberta’s cell phone.
• 9-1-1 patched Petra through to Mt. Rainier SAR and we reported the fall, our concern about a head/neck/spinal injury, our inability to walk Sam out, and the need for a rapid aerial evacuation.
• SAR asked us to move Sam to the snow and that a helicopter was already in the air and would fly over us shortly to pinpoint our location, then pick up rescuers and return with them.

• As we waited for the helicopter to arrive, we attempted to stabilize Sam as much as possible. Petra cleaned open wounds on Sam’s hand and then splinted their broken right arm. We both took turns checking for A&O levels periodically.
• We collectively made the decision to not move Sam to the snow until the Mazama team arrived behind us, as it would be impossible to move them while keeping head/spine immobilized and we were concerned about head/neck/spinal injury.
• Spent about 1.5 hours stabilizing Sam on uneven rocks. We used our bodies and our backpacks to prop them up, attempting to maintain spinal alignment, and used seat pads to make it less uncomfortable.

• As soon as the Mazama team arrived behind us, we were able to safely move Sam to the snow with a team of 7.
• We then focused our efforts on keeping Sam warm, hydrated, and supported. We sourced extra layers and pads from the Mazama team and were able to insulate Sam from the snow and wind.
• We took multiple sets of vitals once Sam was stabilized in the snow and completed a SOAP note.
• Once rescuers arrive, we quickly transitioned Sam from the snow into the litter.
• Total time from fall to evacuation about 2 hour 15 minutes.

Takeaways

• Sometimes things just go wrong despite detailed and careful planning.
• Get some medical training and make sure you practice the skills frequently. Check your first aid kit before every climb.
• Carry an emergency communication device! We were lucky to have cell reception, but make sure to carry something like an InReach or other PLB in the event of no cell reception.
• Practice efficient communication of a patient’s condition. Tell 9-1-1 and SAR exactly what they need to know in as few words as possible.
• Carry a SOAP note template with you.
• Always pack extra layers!
• Don’t underestimate the psychological impact after a traumatic event – even close calls. CISM is a wonderful resource we all have.
• Be smart when choosing climbing partners. Just because they climb 5.14 it doesn’t mean they have first aid training. Always ask.