Tesla Model S Delivery Checklist and Buyers/Owners Guide
Last Update: 22-Aug-2014)
List created/maintained by @nickjhowe on TM and TMC forums. Post a note to this thread if you want any changes. See end of document for revision history.
NEWS!!
I’ve spent the last few months taking the info in the checklist and expanding it significantly. It has turned into Owning Model S: The definitive guide to buying and owning the Tesla Model S, to be published in May.
There’s a new website (http://OwningModelS.com) that currently redirects you to the pre-order page, but in a few days will be live with lots of new information to supplement the book. This checklist will stay here, but for those looking for a little more, or a present for a loved one, Owning Model S should do the trick! Hope you enjoy!
If you don’t want to spend the $24.95 on the book, that’s OK. The checklist and info that’s been developed over the last year to help you out will stay here, for free.
Introduction
The Tesla Motors Model S is a truly amazing, multi-award winning car. And although in many ways it is a perfectly normal five seater premium sedan, in many other ways it is like no other car you’ve ever owned. I put this document together originally as a checklist for new owners on delivery just to make sure everything is OK. It has now grown to over 20 pages of information about buying, taking delivery of, and owning a Model S.
Image © Tesla Motors
I’ve tried to collect as much info as a can for prospective and current owners, based on real world driving experience from hundreds of owners (I’ve credited them where I can). In doing so I’ve had to go into some detail about potential problems to look out for. As such it appears that things are a lot worse than they really are. The VAST MAJORITY of owners have no problems with delivery or ownership. It would therefore be great if you can post the good experiences over at the ‘no problem thread’ on the TM Forum so that we don’t give the world a distorted view of this amazing car and company. Thx!! Nick Howe...
Table of Contents
Before you buy
Your delivery date can change - be ready!
Before you take delivery, get the charging solution installed
What about insurance?
The big day!!!! When the car arrives, make sure you have everything you ordered, and there are no marks on the car (steps 1, 2 and 3)
Now make sure all the bits and pieces work properly
Delivery Questions
So what happens if I find something wrong (hopefully not!)
So how far can I really drive?
Long Distance Driving and Charging on the Go
Cleaning
User serviceable items
Customizing/Other things to do
Things you might not realize about your car/Tips and Tricks
Other Interesting Links
Superchargers
And when accidents happen
For anyone interested in the engineering and patents behind the batteries
Before you buy
A few things to think about before you buy the best car you’ve ever owned:
- Range Anxiety: the first question on everyone’s mind. But honestly it shouldn’t be. As of writing (22 Aug 2014) there are over 50,000 Model S on the road and they’ve done over 350m miles. Owners have gone coast-to-coast, even without superchargers (SCs). There are 120 SCs open, and more opening every week. You might need to consider the 60 vs the 85, but beyond that don’t sweat it.
- Where are you going to charge? If you have a condo, you might run into challenges getting supply in the parking garage (but most people get this fixed eventually). If you have on street parking, is there a public charging station you can use? Or at work?
- Cold weather: many people are concerned about how electric cars perform and handle in low temperatures and snow. Will it work? Is the rear wheel drive enough? Check out this 300km in the snow in Norway for answers to these and other questions: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XZ5PqPeOPT0
- If you want to use a roof rack, you MUST have the pano roof; it is the only option that includes cutouts in the roof rails. (see the ‘Customizing’ section below for an after market tow hitch)
- S60, S85, P85 or P85+?
- The S85 is more car than many people need, especially from a performance perspective even in the ‘standard’ format. This is default choice for most people.
- The S60 is the cheapest and the range is remarkably good. The sensible option for local driving, and a great money saver if you can convince yourself 60 kWh is enough.
- The P85 (my car) is a beast. It will out drag almost anything. If you have a heavy right foot, this is the perfect car for you.
- P85+. OK. If you got here then money is clearly no object, or you really can’t compromise on handling. Hope you know a plastic surgeon because that’s the only way you’ll lose the permanent Tesla Grin.
- If you want to see the straight line performance difference between an S60 and a P85, check this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bXovmFnnSgo
- ¼ Mile Drag races:
- Most owners agree the Tech Package is worth the expense.
- Pretty much everything else is personal preference - color, leather, alcantara, pano roof, 19 vs 21, premium sound, park distance…but here’s a few things to think about:
- Std vs air suspension - everyone with standard likes it; everyone with air prefers it (if you have a high driveway entry, then air might be helpful).
- 19/21 - By all accounts 19s are slightly quieter; the 21s more grippy
- Pano or not? Despite being all glass it lets in remarkably little heat, even in Arizona summers.
- Ultra High Fidelity Sound - the jury seems to be out on this one. Some people love it; some say there’s little difference.
- Carbon fibre spoiler - to all intents and purposes purely cosmetic. It provides a very small amount of downforce at track speeds
- Parking Sensors (PDC) - seems like a no brainer, but the rear camera on its own works great.
- High Power Wall Connector - often not needed. Consider with you’ll need to charge very quickly if you drive home with the car empty, or if you’ll need 20kWh charging when you are out and about (though it can be difficult to find high power J1772)
- Supercharger Enabled - a no brainer, unless you never want to travel long distance (included free in all models except the 60)
- Fog Lamps - your call
- Extended Nappa Leather Trim - your call (as of mid 2014 comes in dark and light colors)
- Alcantara Headliner - your call
- Rear Facing Child Seats - many love them, some have had problems with lack of ventilation/overheating, some have had problems with headlights from following cars, some have had problems with headroom, some have had problems with motion sickness.
- Premium Interior Lighting - expensive, nice, but not that noticeable.
- Sub Zero Weather Package - you’ll know if you need it
- Parcel Shelf - As of mid 2014 is standard.
- Paint Armor - I went with the more expensive after market option to get more coverage (full hood, doors) mainly because I didn’t like the line across the middle of the hood with the factory install.
- Buyers in California: You might want to add to make sure to get a copy of the Application for the New Vehicle Registration. You sign it when you pick up the car but Tesla forgot to give me a copy of it and you need it when you apply for the $2,500 California Clean Air Tax Credit. (via @earlyretirement)
Your delivery date can change - be ready!
DO NOT get fixated on a specific delivery day/time. Your car may come early or be delayed. The two biggest delay reasons are "the car is on a truck and the truck is stuck in XYZ, it will be another week..." or delays due to inspections or rework on the manufacturing line. On the positive side you may get "I know we said it would be delivered next week, but it is already here. Can we deliver it tomorrow?"
My advice: get everything (including financing) ready early just in case you get a nice surprise.
You have been warned! :-)
Before you take delivery, get the charging solution installed
- Model S will charge from 110V/12A or 230V/10A and up. 110V, 12A is very, very, sloooooooow, and very, very inefficient (per the Telsa Charging page you’ll use 132 kWh to fill an 85 kWh battery)
- North America
- Most people go with a 220V, 50A NEMA 14-50 outlet. This charges the car at 40A, and gives about 25 miles for every hour it is plugged in.
- Tesla has recommended electricians who will do the install, but if you are moderately handy you can do it yourself for less than $200 (depending on how much wire you need to run). See this thread over at TMC for a very comprehensive write up on how to do everything.
- High Power Wall Connector (HPWC) gives 220V, 80A (20kw). YOU MUST HAVE TWIN CHARGERS TO USE MORE THAN 40A FROM THE HPWC (or J1772). It WILL work with a single charger, but you’ll only get 10kW - just like you will with a NEMA 14-50.
- 5-pin IEC 60309 adapter (red) - provides 3 phase 230/400 VAC charging at 16 A
- 3-pin IEC 60309 adapter (blue) - provides 1-phase 230 VAC charging at 10-32 A
- HPWC is “to be announced” in Europe.
- If you are doing the install yourself, make sure the feed into the house has enough capacity, and that there is room in your panel!
- Note that the charging cable (UMC) is 20 ft long, with the first 2 ft taken up with a ‘pigtail’ and the controller. So there is about 18 ft of usable cable. MAKE SURE YOU TAKE THIS INTO ACCOUNT WHEN PLANNING WHERE TO MOUNT YOUR OUTLET. Think about where you are going to park the car, front in vs reversing in, etc., etc.
- Check out this thread for a few examples of different cable (UMC) management solutions, including using a tool balancer to suspend the cable from the roof.
- And by the way - it is OK to leave the UMC plugged into the wall when not in use; draws virtually zero current and avoids wear and tear from constantly unplugging/plugging.
What about insurance?
As with any new entrant into the market, even one year after launch the insurance premiums are all over the map. Quite a few companies still haven’t heard of the Model S. The only advice I can give at this stage is head over to these URLs and do some reading. You might save yourself a bunch of money (Sorry this are mostly US-specific):
Note: when you finalize your car Tesla asks for proof of insurance. YOU DON’T NEED TO INSURE THE MODEL S BEFORE DELIVERY. They just need proof that you have SOME insurance - your existing car is fine.
The big day!!!! When the car arrives, make sure you have everything you ordered, and there are no marks on the car (steps 1, 2 and 3)
The only things you might want to have handy before the car turns up are:
- Your phone (to test in the car and take lots of pictures/videos)
- A friend to take photos/videos - you’ll be too busy!
- A USB stick with some music (to test and make sure it fits OK)
- In case your Delivery Specialist can’t make it, or you live in a state where this is problematic, then the official Tesla Motors vehicle walk through is here: http://www.teslamotors.com/models/walkthrough
- Basic
- Is it your car? (yes, believe it or not, someone had the wrong car delivered)
- Make sure VIN matches paperwork
- Correct battery size
- Correct paint color?
- Correct Leather/interior color? (rbgill770 had this problem on 2/19)
- Correct Trim? (especially if CF - some folks accidentally got different trim!)
- Correct Wheels? (some folks got 19’s when they’d ordered 21’s)
- Correct Roof (black, matched, pano)?
- Two key fobs
- Temporary tags
- Tire Inflation Kit (MD and RI only, optional extra everywhere else)
- Front and rear floor mats (see problems, below)
- Chrome ‘Tesla’ license plate frame (check the frunk if you can’t find it)
- Front license plate mount (check the frunk if you can’t find it; see the ‘other things to do’ section below for alternate mounting solutions)
- Printed manuals (in glove box)
- Universal Mobile Connector (UMC) cable with standard adapters and carry bag
- North America:
- J1772 adapter
- NEMA 5-15 110V adapter
- NEMA 14-50 240V adapter
- NEMA 6-50 adapter (only if the High Power Wall Connector ordered and not yet delivered)
- Europe:
- ????
- Cover for footwell in trunk (see problems, below)
- Latest software version (North America: 5.0, 1.35.102; Europe: 5.5 1.35.76)
- Metallic Tesla ‘T’/cover on UMC cable (reported missing on recent cars)
- P85+, P85, 85 or 60 badge on the rear of the car (some are/are not being delivered with badges)
- Optional Items
- Check installed options against purchased options on MVSA
- Wheels
- 19” Aerodynamic
- 19” Cyclone
- 21” Silver Turbine
- 21” Dark Grey Turbine
- Performance Plus package
- Tech package
- Ultra High Fidelity Sound package
- Leather Seats
- Performance Seats
- Extended Napa Leather Trim
- Alcantara Headliner (correct color)
- Premium Interior Lighting
- Air suspension
- Super charging option
- Rear facing child seats
- Parcel Shelf
- Parking Sensors
- Fog Lights
- Carbon Fiber Spoiler
- Sub Zero Weather Package
- Yacht Floor
- 19” Michelin Primacy Tire Upgrade
- Paint Armour
- Security Package (Europe Only)
- Second set of wheels (usually for winter tires)
- High Performance Wall Charger and Twin [in-car] Chargers
- Check that the in-car displays on the instrument cluster and 17” show the correct vehicle color and options. TM can update these remotely.
- Slacker username/password (you can use your own Slacker account it you prefer, but it can’t be a basic account)
- (Note Slacker is currently North America-only; a Europe alternative has been promised)
- Potential delivery problems reported on TM forums
- Bubbles Under Paint Armour (should go away on their own)
- some bubbles may not - installers use a hollow needle to deflate the larger ones. If TM installed your paint armour, get them to fix any bubbles.
- Dirt under clear coat
- Scratches in paint
- Frayed headliner
- Underside damage from loading/unloading
- Wheel scrapes
- Tire scrapes (my sidewall was damaged)
- Black, sticky ‘goop’ on the windows or on the sunroof. Been reported by a couple of users. The felt seal may have come free and the glue/sealant is sticking to the window.
- Misaligned hood or trunk lid. Service can usually adjust this without issues.
- Poor radio reception (antenna was grounded to painted metal)
- Dirt/smudges on headliner/seats/trim from delivery driver
Now make sure all the bits and pieces work properly
- Things that might be problematic - make sure they work
- UMC latches and unlatches without problems
- Make sure you push the cable in. Takes a bit of getting used to. Can feel like it is in when it has stopped part way.
- Charge Port Cover opens consistently (mine sticks big time)
- (remember the sensor for the UMC button transmitter is in the tailgate edge about 18” above and to the left of the charge port, not in the charge port itself)
- Check mobile charger, make sure it works (bad chargers / cables have been reported)
- Set up HomeLink for garage door(s)
- Some people have found this to be difficult. If you are having problems, hold your remote inside the middle of the frunk when you are trying to program the car. Alternatively try against the front lip of the frunk and on the frunk floor, 2 inches to the driver's side of the frunk light.
- Smart Phone syncing - (most people have been able to get most phones to work, even clamshell phones. If you are unable to pair, it could be a bluetooth problem. Let Tesla Service know.)
- contacts
- bluetooth music streaming
- Windshield jets pointing too low
- Can be adjusted using a pin in the jet
- One owner reported no windshield fluid at delivery
- Windshield distortion or cracks (especially near passenger side half way up)
- Distortion in lower 1” is normal; cracks are not! :-)
- Tire Pressures too high (this is a common one) - should be 42 (with 21” wheels) or 45 (19”), not 54; check the label on the driver B pillar to get the right pressure for your car.
- All doors close properly (door misalignment reported)
- Workaround (especially for the passenger door) is to remove one of the two plastic bungs from the bottom of the door to eliminate back pressure when closing the door.
- All handles work properly (various handle problems reported)
- Typically a mechanical problem that requires replacing the handle
- Users have also reported that doors that don’t open when the handles are pulled can sometimes be solved by taking out the appropriate fuse (32, 40 or 41 - check the manual) for five minutes then replace.
- Windows don’t auto close the last inch when closing the door
- Try lowering the window all the way down, then all the way up; may reset the sensor.
- Rear seat belts dragging
- the left and right rear seat belts can sometimes scrape/drag when you pull them. This is a faulty/missing part problem and there is a known fix for it. TM has to order a new part.
- Condensation in the rear lights/reflectors
- Been reported by quite a few people. Annoying, but doesn’t seem to cause any problems, per se. Allegedly Tesla is working on a fix (new seals)
- Low frequency powerful rumbling when first turned on
- This is the A/C compressor vibrating against the frunk liner. Service has a fix where they reposition the bracket.
- 12V battery failures
- The Model S uses a 12V battery to power the instruments, lights, etc.
- More importantly it is used to power the mechanical ‘contactors’ that connect the main battery to the drive train (that is the ‘clunk’ you hear when you turn on). Therefore, if the 12V battery fails or is flat YOU CANNOT START THE CAR. Also the parking brake will be locked on. You will need to attach a 12V supply to the posts behind the nose to avoid having to drag the car with the wheels locked.
- Tesla received a [very] bad batch of 12V batteries early on that fail, and there also seem to be “DC-DC” system problems that are causing good 12V batteries to fail.
- If you receive any 12V warnings, or your car is non-responsive IMMEDIATELY CALL TESLA SERVICE. The ranger can replace the battery.
- A few users have reported problems with the map lights. You might not realise it but each one is ‘pushable’ to turn on/off. A handful of users reported problems at delivery or after a few days. Give them all a push and make sure they work!
- A very small number of owners have reported issues that have been caused by loose fuses. If you or your Delivery Specialist feel so inclined, it might be worth popping off the fuse cover in the frunk (the manual shows how to do it) and making sure all the fuses are seated properly.
- A small number of issues have been reported with the glove box sticking. If you’ve check the owners manual in step 1 above, then you should already have figured out whether the glove box is OK!
- Potential Problems
- Tire wear - IMPORTANT - This is one to put in your diary for about 2 months time. A number of cars have been reported to have excessive tire wear on the rears. Make sure you check your tires at about 2000 miles and look at the inside shoulder of the rears. If you see any significant signs of wear, head off to service immediately, get them to fix the car, and get the tires replaced for free.
- (Technical bit: The Model S runs about 2 degrees of negative camber. Excessively high tire pressure, misalignment, or loose suspension bushings quickly lead to horrendous tire wear. The most common cause is excessive ‘toe’. Don’t take no for an answer in service. GET THE ALIGNMENT CHECKED IF YOU SEE EXCESSIVE WEAR)
- Wind noise due to misaligned windows - Service can usually correct this.
- Buffeting with windows open (this can be somewhat mitigated by adjusting the height of the bump stops on the tailgate - seems the tailgate can bounce and magnify the pressure waves). Put a piece of paper between the tailgate and the bump stop and make sure you can’t pull it. If you can, unscrew the bump stop a little and try again.
- EZ-Pass, Sunpass, other Toll tag. The windshield in the S has a metallic film built into it that blocks the signal. Some folks have been able to get them working either just to the right of or just below the mirror mount. I had to get an external SunPass and mount it (zip ties and strong velcro) on the bumper behind the nose cone - works great. If you have a thin, stick on transponder, one user (@bp) has managed to get it to work by sliding it up under the mirror mount and the headliner.
UPDATE 9-Jul-2013 - news from the Menlo Park tech meeting suggests that some (1000 or so) windshields did NOT have the ‘signal hole’ and hence cause problems. Newer cars should be OK for internal windshield mount in the dotted area. - Radar detectors
- The original info was that are SOL here as far as mounting inside goes. All the info suggested having the detector mounted externally. TM will do this for you (for the cost of labor)
- Update 5-May-13. @kevonandmarion reports that his Passport is working fine in the car. Another user has reported the same; maybe it was the bad windshield batch reported above.
- Update 28-Aug-13. @ROMANANDKATHY reports that his 9500ix works fine when mounted at the bottom of the windshield, but that moving it as close as possible to the glass significantly improves the detection capability.
- ‘Loose’ back end under acceleration. Various owners have reported the back end pulling one way under acceleration, and the other under deceleration. This has been tracked back to suspension problems during manufacture (loose bolts or bad bushings). If the car doesn’t feel right, IMMEDIATELY CALL TESLA SERVICE. (see this thread)
- UPDATE: matt.wis on the TM forum reports that simply adjusting his tire pressures from 45 (incorrect) to 42 (correct) fixed his handling problem. Allegedly the air suspension was getting confused. I’m trying to get clarification on this. In the mean time, CALL TESLA SERVICE!
- Floor mats - there have been at least three iterations of floor mats. One type has a smooth underside and velcro at the back edge. These are “temporary” mats, and only came in the front of the car. They should be replaced at no charge for “new” mats. The “new” mats have a stippled underside and no velcro; they have front and rear seat versions. Unfortunately the new mats are as poor as the old maps. The one for the passenger footwell has a habit of flopping/folding over under high acceleration. The third type were “luxury” floor mats available in the online store; they were removed sometime during 2013.
- Trunk footwell cover - similar to the floor mats there are at least two versions. Some cars were/are shipped with lightweight covers which flex when weight is applied. New cars generally ship with a much more robust, heavier cover made of reinforced plastic. The latter should be a free upgrade from the former.
Delivery Questions
- How does charging work? What do the colors on the charge port mean?
- Pulsing White - ready
- Pulsing Yellow - UMC not fully inserted
- Solid Blue- connected and communicating
- Pulsing Green - charging (can take a minute or two to start)
- Solid Green - charged up
- Red - Failure (possibly hardware)
- How to operate windshield wipers
- A quirk of the operation is that if you have it set to ‘auto’ it will do one swipe when you turn the car on to calibrate the rain sensor. Careful it doesn’t scratch the glass if not raining.
- Connect the Model S to our Wifi network (v5.x software required) and ensure that signal strength is adequate for updates, etc.
- Connect smartphone to the model S system via Bluetooth.
- Are individual contacts lists downloadable.
- Please provide a brief tutorial on the phone system.
- How to access digital output of iPhone apps (e.g., Pandora)?
- Need demo of all functionality in steering wheel thumb switches
- Phone controls
- Audio/music controls
- How to change what the steering wheel switches control (if updated to v4.0)
- Other?
- How to modify the displays that appear next to the speedometer?
- What options do I have?
- How to adjust seat, mirrors, save driver profile(s)
- Include setup for side mirrors in backup mode - not intuitive how to do this - to set the mirrors for reversing you have to put the car in reverse, set the mirrors, then save.
- Provide a demo of the cruise control functionality.
- What displays/status information is provided and where can I display it?
- How is vehicle status information displayed (e.g., tire pressure warning)?
- Walk through all screen displays
- Download and demo iPhone/Android app
- iPhone App now in App Store
- Android app available in Google Play
- There is no official Tesla app on Windows Phone, but there are two owner-written apps:Tesla Connect for WP 7.5 and 8, and Tesla Commander for WP8 only.
So what happens if I find something wrong (hopefully not!)
Tell the Delivery Specialist. Depending on the nature of the problem, either get it noted on the due bill, or in extremis refuse to accept the car.
Don't let the DS leave until you've been over the car with a fine tooth comb and you are completely satisfied. Make sure you take a copy of the due bill if you can. These guys are generally very good, so even if there are issues they'll make sure everything gets fixed ASAP.
If you spot anything after (s)he leaves, contact the DS and let them know, and make sure you email Ownership so there is a written record, and follow up with a phone call. This is a pretty expensive piece of kit and you want it to be perfect.
You’ve got the car. Now it’s time to drive.
So how far can I really drive?
Rod and Barbara on the TM forum in this thread have finally got to the bottom of the battery/range situation in the 85kWh car. Here’s what they found. It is a bit weird, so stick with it:
- The battery is 85kWh
- Usable capacity is only 81.1kWh - the other 3.9 is restricted to system use to avoid ‘bricking’ the battery. This capacity is never available for driving
- The EPA 265 mile range is based on this 81.1kWh capacity
- When the range reads ‘zero miles’ there is actually about 17 miles left (to get you somewhere safe in an emergency); the EPA 265 miles includes these 17 miles.
- 265 miles from 81.1 kWh is 306 Wh/mile. This figure has been known for a long time and is what we’ve been using to calculate ‘rated range’.
- BUT - turns out this is wrong. The 17 mile emergency reserve means there are 5.2 kWh held in reserve (but available). When ‘fully charged’ on a range charge the display shows 265 rated miles, but the display drops to zero when there is still 17 miles of capacity. Therefore the ‘rated range’ in the car is based on 265 miles from 75.9 kWh (81.1-5.2), therefore 286 Wh/m.
So, if you want to get your real range to match rated range as displayed in the car, you need to average 287 Wh/m. But when you get to zero, you’ve still got 17 miles at 306 Wh/m (or just over 18 at 287)
The net-net from this is that the usable capacity of an 85kWh battery during range-charge, non-emergency driving is 75.9 kWh, and 67.4 kWh for a normal charge. So if you divide that by your Wh/m consumption you should get an accurate estimation of range. I’ve got a lifetime average 340 Wh/m so I would get 223 miles from a range charge. YMMV.
Note: Much of this information has not been officially confirmed by Tesla and may be wrong, but does agree with everything many users have seen in the last few months. The 15-17 mile ‘reserve’ was confirmed during the infamous “Broder incident.”
Long Distance Driving and Charging on the Go
- Want to be able to plug into different outlets, but don’t want to buy the Tesla UMC connectors, or need a longer cable? Check out this DIY guide. Easy to do (thanks to @shop on the TM forum): http://cosmacelf.net/Home%20Made%20Adapters.pdf
- If you plan to charge at relatives homes, RV parks, and so on, you may want to put a non-contact voltage probe, such as the Triplet Sniff It in your charge kit. It lets you easily and safely find out if an outlet or wire actually has power, and troubleshoot a large number of issues quickly.
Cleaning
After spending a not inconsiderable sum on your gorgeous new Model S, please don’t go to the local crappy drive through car wash and scratch it to hell. Here’s a few suggestions how to keep your car pristine:
- Exterior - use Junkman’s two bucket hand wash approach:
- Interior - forum users (thx @omarsultan for the links) have recommended both Maguires and Gritgot’s Garage products:
User serviceable items
There’s virtually nothing you can do except rotate the tires and fill the washer fluid.
If anyone finds anything, I’ll post it here.
- See this thread discussing possible replacement for cabin air filter
- There has been much discussion about tire wear and toe angle. Thanks to rdalcanto in a thread the TM forum here is some info on how to get it right (edited for length):
“I have a P85+ with 730 miles now. Got my alignment checked at Firestone. My rear toe was out of spec a little. Range is 0.10 to 0.30 (from @lolachampcar). Mine was 0.46 Left and 0.08 Right. Total Toe was in spec 0.53 (range is 0.20-0.60), but the mechanic explained that it means my car was crabbing down the road a little when I was going straight (rear tires parallel to each other, but not pointed straight forward with the fronts), and that scrubs the tires a little. He easily got everything perfect. 0.22 L, 0.21 R, 0.44 Total
I got the LifeTime alignment at Firestone for less than the cost of one tire (under $200). I can take it in every 6 months and have them recheck it. I think it is well worth it and something everyone should do with tires that can wear this fast. (EDITOR: note that alignment IS included in the annual service; rdalcanto was given bad info by TM Service)
One hint would be to let any non-Tesla shop know that toe can be done in the rear without removing any floor panels. A ratchet, extension and socket allows for loosening and tightening the toe adjuster nut while a simple end wrench allows you to hold the bolt from rotating on the other side(a bit of a PITA). The ratchet handle will be just aft of the rear of the lower a-arm where there is room to get your hand on it.”
You need to do the test in Standard Height mode as other heights affect the angles.
Check the thread for more details.
Customizing/Other things to do
The TeslaTap website has a lot of info about tweaking your Model S, but I thought I’d include a list of most common things here.
- Pick up a stack of Tesla Model S brochures to give to people that have 1,000 questions
- Order yourself a couple of 18650 batteries on Amazon so you can show them to inquiring minds. Use a craft knife to remove the plastic wrapper and you get a nice, shiny silver battery like they have in the showrooms.
- If you are concerned about center console storage, go to your local Michaels store (if you have one) and buy the Reflections Mini-Tote. Will fit under the cubby. Or pop over to Amazon and pick up this Mighty Bag on Amazon. 7”x4”x6” Up to you if you chop the handles off. Also comes in pink, blue and yellow!
- If you want to have a center console the Tesla should have made, @softauthor on TMC/TMF has created the very high quality “Center Console Insert”. You can find it at TeslaAccessories
- Everyone complains that the hole in the key fob is too small to fit a normal key ring. The best solution I’ve seen is this one on Amazon for $6 (Aug 2013 - @Hisbgait reports that new keys come with a tether)
- @carlf9121 on the TM forum found this USB case that fits the key perfectly and protects it.
- @pete8314 on TMC produces a custom version that he calls ‘FobPockets’. See this thread.or http://www.abstractocean.com/fobpockets/
- For a screen protector for the 17” display (thanks @slevinn), check out http://nushield.com/order.php?apptypeid=Car+Navigation&manufacturerid=Tesla
- If the 17” screen is too dak at night and distracts you, the best solution is to launch a full screen browser page that is all black, such as this one: http://teslatap.com/dark/
- For a roof rack, go to the Yakima website and search for a 2012 MS with the pano roof - also check out this thread: http://www.teslamotorsclub.com/showthread.php/19577-Roof-Rails.
- There is an aftermarket hitch for bikes/very small trailers that is specifically designed for the Model S and is invisible after installation. Check out http://torkliftcentral.com/ @Pungoteague_Dave on the TM forum installed one. http://www.teslamotors.com/forum/forums/hitch-installation-model-s-and-impact-range
- The rear seat belt clips are flush with the rear seat. If you need to use booster seats, or have trouble plugging in the seat belts you might benefit from a clip extender. Here’s a couple over on TMC:
- Talking of seat belts, if you find that the seat belt digs into the side of your neck, @Dcp9142 suggests a seat belt clip like the Heininger 1027 CommuteMate Seat Belt Strap is both inexpensive and effective at solving this. Alternatively you can try the LooPo Seat Belt Tension Adjuster (via @Colasec)
- Some people don’t like mounting the front license plate on the nose cone. There are several alternate solutions, of which this seems to be the best: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MY1cGIIGVWo (IMHO). Check out this thread on the TM forums.
- Residents of Arizona have reported how hot the door handles get. @Dcp9142 suggests a 1 inch by 4 inch stick on Velcro Extreme Tape strip attached to the inside of the handle. $5, exterior rated and fits exactly right out of the box.
- Want to juice up your display? Check out these Model-S specific web pages for your 17” display:
- Worried about hitting the garage wall with your car door? @cfOH has the answer.
- Don’t want to use a hitch, but want to take bikes with you? The Strida folding bikes fit into the trunk perfectly. I have two Strida LTs. I got mine from Jeff at Ultimate Sports Online
- Worried about your shiny new 21” wheels? Try these Alloy Gators. Come from the UK for about $100, and about $60 to install. There’s a detailed thread over at TMC.
- Why not add some color to the hub cap with a custom sticker, over at TMC.
- Steinwand had his standard 19” wheels painted, lathed and clear coated. Looks pretty good. See this thread.
- @rsafko on TMC has put Niche Targa wheels (295/25/22 Rear, 255/30/22 Front. Michelin Sport P2) on his car; (pic used with permission). Link is here.
- If you want to go crazy, @Viperbrad on the TMC forum has done a STUNNING wrap and put 22” Vossens on his Model S:
Things you might not realize about your car/Tips and Tricks
- Seats: If you have leather seats, there’s a little pocket at the front of the drivers’ seat that is perfect for a ChargePoint card or other bits and bobs
- The “dashed yellow line” - this one catches most owners out. When you max charge, the car temporarily disables regen (it has nowhere for the electricity to go). The dashed line shows that regen is limited. As you drive the first few miles the line will get closer to zero then disappear.
- The other dashed yellow line - if you absolutely mash the throttle at around 70+mph you are pulling >360KW. You’ll see a dashed line appear at the top of the power meter. We’re not quite sure why.
- J1772: Theres a space at the back corners of the glove box that is designed to store the J1772 adapter
- Universal Mobile Connector - if you are interested in the internals and wiring of the UMC, check out this thread on TMC, complete with a tear down.
- Charge Port: There are at least four ways to open the charge port:
- press “Controls” and there is a button bottom left of the screen;
- press the battery icon and there’s a button top right of the pop up;
- press and hold the button on the end of the UMC when you are near the port (might need to move about 10” above the port) I’ve found that if I wait a couple of seconds between bringing the UMC towards the port and pressing the button the port opens consistently;
- last but not least the port cover can be opened by levering the left edge open with a small plastic tool, or pushing very firmly on the bottom right corner. This pops open the cover that is held closed by a magnet. It will still require one of the three options above to unlock the port itself so the UMC can be inserted.
Listen to Music
You can use your voice to search for and play selections from the lntemet music service Slacker. Begin your command with "Listen to" or “Play,” followed by the name of an album, artist, or combination.
- Listen to The Black Keys
- Listen to Boogie Wonderland
- Play Honkey Tonk Chateau by Elton John
- Listen to Free Fallin by Tom Petty
Once a selection is made, you can then listen to a custom radio station based on your search results. Note that providing multiple cues in your voice command, such as artist plus song name, will often improve the voice recognifion accuracy.
Navigation
To navigate or search within the Maps app. say 'Drive to," "Navigate to," or “Where is," followed by an address, business name, business category, or landmark.
- Navigate to 3500 Deer Creek Road Palo Alto
- Navigate to Starbucks on University Ave In Palo Alto
- Drive to Starbucks on Homestead in Cupertino
- Navigate to the French Laundry
- Where is Stanford University
Call a contact
To place calls on a phone connected via Bluetooth, start your command with "Call" or “Dial,” followed by the contact's first and/or last names.
- Call Jason
- Dial Mike Phillips
- Frunk: The square area at the back of the frunk is called the “microwave”
- Frunk: Despite statements to the contrary, you CAN fit a wheel/tire in the frunk. I’ve seen it done.
- Nose cone: If you need to remove the nose, for example to access the 12V pegs or to mount EZ-Pass or Radar detector. there are a couple of different approaches. @wormhole on TMC discovered a way to do it with just your hands - see this thread/video. Basically if you push down with both hands on the two chrome strips either side of the frunk latch with enough force the nose pops free. Alternatively you'll need a tool (preferable plastic, ideally an auto molding remover tool like this. Slip the tool into the top right part of the oval near where it meets the hood and ease it forwards. You should be able to pull it off. The clips are very robust and there's little chance of you breaking anything.
- Door Handles: The quickest way to extend the door handles when sitting in the car is press the Controls button, then the unlock button. Pressing ‘P’ on the stalk will also extend the handles if the car is not already in Park.
- Door Handles: Although the door handles don’t auto present if you don’t have the tech package, they do auto unlock if you have the fob in your pocket. Just touch the handle to present; no need to click the fob to unlock.
- Emergency Brake: When you are moving, pressing and holding the ‘P’ at the end of the gear stalk works the emergency brake
- Talking of brakes the reason there are two brake calipers on each rear wheel is that the smaller is the parking/emergency brake; the larger is the ‘normal’ foot controlled brake.
- Moving when powered off: if you need to have the car in a state where it is powered off but can still be moved, use the following procedure:
- Put the car in Park, with the car turned on
- Bring up the controls screen and select the ‘E-brake and power off’ page
- v5.0 Select Tow Mode; or
- v4.x Press the ‘Car is in Park, Press for Neutral’ button, then quickly press the Power off button; car should now be off and in neutral. If you take too much time between the two buttons the e-brake will re-apply. If so, go back to step 1.
Note: according to @chrisdl on the TM forum, the parking brake screw drive actuators need electrical power to change state. Hence, when your battery runs out, they remain in the position they were. If the P-brake was on, it stays on. If it was off, it stays off.
- Accessory Mode: If want the car to remain powered on after you exit, put the car in neutral and then use the E-Brake from the control screen (don’t know how long it will stay on). Also reported that if you press the foot brake from outside the car it will remain on when the door is closed.
- Brake Lights: the brake lights come on with regenerative braking. Exactly when they come on seems to be speed-dependent, but @jat@jaet.org says they come on at 30 kW of regen on his car. If you wan to test, use the rear view camera or the on-screen display (press the Tesla T) to see the brake lights come on.
- Alarm: one aspect of “working as designed” might surprise some folks. If a passenger is seated in the car, and the driver walks away with the fob, the car will auto lock AND auto arm the alarm. If the passenger then opens the door the alarm will go off and can only be disabled by unlocking the car with the fob (and maybe with the console). You have been warned. Touching the screen to power the car on avoids this problem (I think - not tested)
- Car Lowering onto Kerbs: there have been isolated instances of the car lowering itself when parked, and getting hooked up on kerbs. Be careful when/where you park.
- Slacker: (North America) You can use your own Slacker and/or TuneIn credentials. Go to Settings, Apps, Media
- A couple of tips - wait until you see ‘Recording...’ appear on the dash before you start speaking when searching for songs
- riceuguy over on the forum reports that Slacker search on the Model S doesn’t like apostrophes. Delete them from titles and names before hitting search.
- Driver profiles: Driver profiles save A LOT more than just seat and mirror positions; there’s a link on the driver profiles page that shows what gets saved/restored.
- Utility Bills: When you are calculating how much electricity the car uses, the following facts are helpful:
- About 86% (based on user estimates) of the electricity to your panel ends up in the car
- The car uses between 0.12 and 0.18KW/h when not in use. This is called the “vampire load” (NOTE: v5.x software significantly reduces vampire load. No measurements yet)
- So say you drive 50 miles/day, and you drive at the rated rate of 0.307 KWh/mile
- The motor will consume 50*0.307 = 15.35 KWh
- But the total power through your meter in a 24 hour period will be ((0.18*24)+(50*.307))/0.86 = 22.9KWh
- Update 29-Aug-13: Latest info from the Tesla Charging Page says that to completely fill an 85 kWh battery you’ll need 99 kWh from a 240V/40A source, or 132 kWh (!!!) from a 120V/12A source.
- Dead Fob: The user manual describes how to get into the car with a dead fob (place against the lower front edge of the passenger windshield). This thread alleges that you CANNOT start the car if they battery in the FOB is dead, only if the battery is low but still functioning (place in the cup holder, or near the USB outlets). In case it dies, I recommend you keep a spare CR2032 battery in the car..
- Standard sound system: @Speed Racer on the TM forum recommends setting the base to +8, mid to +7.5 and treble to +8. Also set the fade to -3 to make up for weaker speakers.
- Information shared at the Tesla May 2013 Tech Talks, as reported in this thread:
- The 12V pegs behind the nose can be used both to jump the Model S and to jump other cars.
- Charging at 40 amps is optimum (implication being don’t trickle charge!)
- Keeping battery level around 50% gets maximum battery life, but that doesn’t mean only charge to 50%. Per this tweet from Elon, charging to 85-90% is best.
- “Best results” (not sure what this means) come from your charge being completed about an hour before departure.
- Servicing: As of May 2013 you should be given a Model S as a loaner if your car needs to be in the shop more than a few hours. There’ve been questions about availability and whether distance from the service center affects things. Here’s the official response from Tesla. Thanks @romainiacWV:
“We at Tesla are currently in progress of opening 20 additional Service Centers in the coming months, and are actively reducing the distance between our customers’ homes and the Tesla Service Centers. Despite our continuous expansion, we understand there will remain locations that are not in immediate proximity of one of our Service Centers.
Independent of the location of your home and the distance to the closest Service Center, you will be provided a loaner vehicle (depending on availability) or a replacement rental car when you drop off your Model S at one of our Service Centers. With our loaner car program, we focus on setting up every Service Center with a sufficient number of Model S loaners. However, in instances where demand exceeds the loaner availability, we are using replacement rentals to ensure customer mobility. We will follow up with our Service team to confirm this aspect of our policy.
Our valet program is in place for all customers within 50 miles of a Service Center. For customer living outside the range of 50 miles from one of our Service Centers, we offer the mobile ranger service at an additional charge, as indicated on our website.”
- Speed limiter: Confirmation that the Model S is electronically limited to 133 mph (indicated): thread. Reverse is limited to 15 mph. Be aware Loaner cars might be software limited to 75 or 80 mph - so watch out on the freeway to avoid a surprise when overtaking. (see this thread for details)
- Slits in back of rear seats: are not a manufacturing defect. They are tether LATCH anchors for forward facing child seats when mounted in the rear seats. (Thx Musterion)
- The motor is an AC induction motor rated at 375V capable of 16,000 rpm. It drives the rear wheels via a 9.73:1 reduction gear.
- Wheels/Tires: there are a few different wheels/tyres out there. Wheel nut torque is 129 lb.ft
- The 19” wheels ship with Goodyear Eagle RS-A2 245/45R19 98V (8.0Jx19, 40mm offset)
- Optional 19” tire: Michelin Primacy MXM4 (245/45/19)
- The 21’s ship with Continental Extreme Contact DW 245/35R21 96Y or Michelin Pilot Sport (8.5Jx21, 40mm offset)
- The Performance Plus models ship with Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 245/35ZR21 96Y front, 265/35ZR21 101Y rear (8.5Jx21 front 9.0Jx21 rear, 40mm offset)
- The Tesla winter wheel package includes 8.0Jx19 wheels and Pirelli 240 Sottozero or Nokian Studded 245/45/R19
- Tire Pressures (from Tesla Service Bulletin SB-13-34-003
- Alternate Tires
- Various users on TMC have suggested the Hankook Ventus as an alternative to the Conti’s. You can get a set of four at TireRack for $724 (vs $1,152 for the Conti’s)
- NHTSA Crash Ratings (5 star in all categories!, lowest roll over risk of any vehicle tested) were published at the beginning of August 2013. Check them out on the NTHSA Web Site Model S page.
- Here’s how to decode your VIN (see this thread for source). Note that VINs are as the car was originally specified; some early cars did not have supercharger capability but were retrofitted; for those Digit 7 will be A rather than C:
- Digits 1-3, WMI: 5YJ = Tesla
- Digit 4, Line/Series: S = Model S
- Digit 5, Body Type: A = 5 Door Hatchback LHD RWD
- Digit 6, Restraint System:
- 1 = Manual Type 2 USA Seat Belts, Dual Front Airbags, Front/Rear Side Airbags, Knee Airbags
- 2 = Euro cars - no details yet.
- A = 10kw Charger
- B = 20kw Charger
- C = 10kw Charger, w/DC Fast Charge (Supercharger hardware)
- D = 20kw Charger, w/DC Fast Charge (Supercharger hardware)
- Digit 8, Motor/Drive Unit & Battery Type:
- C = Base A/C Motor, Tier 2 Battery (31-40kWh)
- G = Base A/C Motor, Tier 4 Battery (51-60 kWh)
- N = Base A/C Motor, Tier 7 Battery (81-90 kWh)
- P = Performance A/C Motor, Tier 7 Battery (81-90 kWh)
- Digit 9, Check Digit: Variable
- Digit 10, Model Year:
- F = Fremont, CA (FRE)
- P = Palo Alto, CA (PAO)
- Digit 12, Production Series:
- A = Alpha Prototype
- B = Beta Prototype
- R = Release Candidate Vehicle
- P = Production Vehicle
- S = Signature Series Vehicle
- F = Founder Series Vehicle
- Digits 13-17, Production Sequence
- There are a lot of hidden diagnostics pages accessible by Tesla Service on the 17” display. Check out this video. One example is this one (thanks @cfOH) on the cooling circuit:
- A few other things from the Tech Talk, talking about future enhancements:
- Everything you could ever want from map software is being worked on.
- Vanity lights are on the way (as of July there is now some question whether this is true)
- Air suspension will adjust by GPS should you have steep driveway.
- Music storage is still coming, but slowly.
- Valet Mode - confirmed by Elon at Teslive in July. Coming by end of year
Other Interesting Links
Here are a few threads on the Tesla Motors forum and other websites that might be useful:
- http://tripography.com/ - web application that records your daily driving distances and shows them in graph form
- Visible Tesla - a java app that runs locall on Mac or PC (or any java-runtime client) that shows similar information to the iPhone app, plus much more detailed charging info. (screenshots). There is a Mac Binary (i.e app that runs on a Mac) version of Visible Tesla. Warning - clicking the link initiates a download from Dropbox: download (62MB).
- Cliff Hannel has put together an app to capture and report data. See http://evtripplanner.com/tracker_about.php
- The reverse engineering is happening here and here.
Superchargers
For your info, here's how a typical (in this case the Port St Lucie, FL) supercharger infrastructure is configured:
The eight bay setup takes a 12kV, 750kVA feed from the utility, steps it down to 480V three phase on site, pushes that into 2000A switchgear which feeds four (one for each pair of bays) SuperCharger units at 480V/200A. Each unit contains 12 [Model S] 10kW rectifiers for 120kW.
For safety reasons the 'pod' that the car plugs into is not energized until the cable has done a handshake, so if something accidentally flattens a pod or the cable is cut there is no danger.
Each unit is 120kW and will load balance between two bays - if two cars are at the same SOC they'll each get 60kW, whereas if one is empty and one is close to full it will split it 90/30. So...if you come into an SC station and there are several empty bays DO NOT park next to an existing car unless you first check the label on the SC - each one should be labeled 1A, 1B, 2A, 2B, etc. If no labels, count! Avoid taking the same number if you can so you get the full 120kW.
Strictly speaking all old SCs are only 90kW, but are being upgraded. All new SCs are 120kW but will only push 90kW right now because the cars require a firmware update to take 120kW, and a tweak is needed at the SC station. No date on when the change is going to happen.
Tesla is exploring pushing the units to 150kW in the future.
Voltage and current to the car vary considerably, but some users have reported 255A, and 365V max. This equates to 93 kW, so clearly we’ll expect to see higher when they step up to 120 kW.
To accelerate the build out SCs are being built without solar and without the 'spaceship' signage. Both are over 10' tall and therefore have additional zoning restrictions that delay the permitting process. Tesla is committed to getting the SCs out as fast, far and wide as possible and is currently limited by the permitting process. They are therefore doing everything to speed that part of the process up. At some point in the future when some unspecified criteria are met, TM will begin the process to add solar and signage to some/all (?) of the SCs.
And when accidents happen
For anyone interested in the engineering and patents behind the batteries
Dave Duff, the engineer responsible for key parts of the Model S electrical systems speaks at Stanford University about "Modular Engineering, Electric Cars and More". Really interesting talk. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=rGueTKezPZE#t=1210s
CapitalistOppressor on the TMC forum has an amazing write up on the details of the patents behind the battery pack, and the incredible ingenuity of Tesla that has massively increased safety while at the same time massively reducing cost: http://www.teslamotorsclub.com/showthread.php/17456-Amazing-Core-Tesla-Battery-IP-18650-Cell
And Ingineer on TMC has pictures of the internals of the RAV4 battery pack that match up with CapitalistOppressor’s explanations: http://www.teslamotorsclub.com/showthread.php/13121-Inside-the-Tesla-battery-pack
[end]
Version History
- 22-Aug-2014 - General updates
Parcel shelf now standard
Dark Alcantara headliner and steel grey paint - 1-May-2014 - Clarified HPWC info
- 5-Apr-2014 - Added info about the book
- 8-Oct-2013 - added report of car lowering itself onto kerbs when parked
- 7-Oct-2013 - added @wormhole’s technique for removing the nose without tools.
- 15-Sep-2013 - Corrected HPWC info
correct s/w version info
fixed link to checklist forum thread - 11-Sep-2013 - added dark screen link
updated fobpocket info - 08-Sep-2013 - added a link to Craig’s garage wall padding idea
- 05-Sep-2013 - added links to Peter Rawlinson engineering walkthrough videos
- 31-Aug-2013 - added links to all the Model S ¼ mile drag times videos
added link to factory quality test video
added links to user-developed Model S apps that use the REST interface - 30-Aug-2013 - added loaner program info
added note for CA buyers - 29-Aug-2013 - started work on the ‘before you buy’ section
added link to screen protector
moved ‘customizing’ section higher in the doc
added info about brake lights with regen
updated charging efficiency info
added link to video on hidden service items and screen shot
added list of voice commands - 28-Aug-2013 - added VIN decode info
added instructions on how to remove the nose
updated radar detector info - 27-Aug-2013 - added tire pressure table
- 25-Aug-2013 - added link to service bulletin with alignment procedures
added link to NHTSA page with Model S Service Bulletins. - 23-Aug-2013 - added Supercharger section
added Table of Contents - 20-Aug-2013 - added another set of after market wheels
added info about parking brake, and ‘jumping’ the car - 19-Aug-2013 - added Cleaning section
added link to UMC tear down/J1772 conversion on TMC. - 18-Aug-2013 - added hot handles info
- 16-Aug-2013 - Clarification on Slacker account and key fob info from @Hisbgait
- 15-Aug-2013 - new SW version 5.0 (1.35.96)
removed ‘future’ items that are in 5.0
added reference to tow mode
added reference to vampre load improvements in 5.x - 14-Aug-2013 - added reference to Windows Phone apps
- 13-Aug-2013 - added suggested settings for standard sound system
- 11-Aug-2013 - added ‘a quick word about this document’ section
added ‘powered off/neutral’ instructions
added details on NHTSA crash ratings - 09-Aug-2013 - added alternative seat belt adjustor
added tire kit for MD and RI - 06-Aug-2013 - updated options to reflect Aug 4 changes
added roof rack info
started new ‘before you buy’ section - 05-Aug-2013 - added a list of things confirmed to be coming in future software updates
- 02-Aug-2013 - added pic of Soflauthor’s CCI
added new “Long Distance Driving and Charging on the Go” section using existing and new content
merged customizing/other things to do sections
added check for correct in-car rendering of color and options
added new tire info on 19” wheel
added info on floor mats and footwell cover
added aftermarket tire info - 31-Jul-2013 - It’s my birthday!!
added ‘why are there two brake calipers’
clarified the wording in new ‘real range’ section - 30-Jul-2013 - added info about LATCH connectors on rear seats
corrected info about speed limiter on loaner cars
addd new ‘how far can I really drive’ section - 29-Jul-2013 - corrected software version number; added Europe software version
corrected references to US vs North America
added PDC as US option (effective 1 Aug)
fixed some formatting - 26-Jul-2013 - document renamed to better reflect what it has become
added Europe charging info
corrected J1772/glove box info
added ‘accessory mode’ info - 24-Jul-2013 - added check for windshield fluid
added ‘60’ badge - 17-Jul-2013 - added info about potential map light problems.
- 16-Jul-2013 - added licence plate frame and front plate holder to basic items list
- 14-Jul-2013 - updated reference to s/w version 1.33.59
added note about UMC - 13-Jul-2013 - added note about non-tech package door handles
- 09-Jul-2013 - added note to EZpass problems
added link to TMC writeup on installing your own electrical supply - 08-Jul-2013 - tweaked the delivery delay text
- 07-Jul-2013 - added link to black web page for 17” screen
added link to ImperialG’s tips and tricks list - 05-Jul-2013 - added toe adjustment info
added info about tires - 04-Jul-2013 - added note about variable delivery dates
added note about dashed yellow lines on the power meter - 28-Jun-2013 - added note about fuses in the things to check section
- 25-Jun-2013 - minor update to Homelink info
added key fobs to ‘things to check’ list. - 24-Jun-2013 - added link to AWS wheel repair
added riceuguy‘s Slacket tips. - 23-Jun-2013 - minor typos fixed
- 07-Jun-2013 - updated most recent software version (.48)
added link to CAdreamin’s wheels
added new insurance section.
added notes on tire wear problems, and rear suspension issues. - 02-Jun-2013 - added Customizing section
removed Model S Issues section
added Engineering section
added link to 133mph video
added link to custom key fob cover - 01-Jun-2013 - added explanation of alarm behavior
- 31-May-2013 - added some info from the May 2013 Tesla Tech Talks
added the ‘what happens if I find a problem’ section - 30-May-2013 - added ‘dead key fob’ info
- 29-May-2013 - added link to home made charging adapter document
added info about Alloy Gators - 28-May-2013 - added reference to Seeking Alpha write up
- 27-May-2013 - added real-world electricity use figures to the ‘things you may not realize’ section
added info about Strida folding bikes - 26-May-2013 - new ‘user serviceable items’ section
- 25-May-2013 - updated dot release of firmware, and a note about 12V battery problems.
- 23-May-2013 - added link to road tripping best practices
- 19-May-2013 - Added missing optional lighting package for Europe
- 18-May-2013 - updated to S/W v4.5
- 16-May-2013 - added links to screen savers/dash displays
- 14-May-2013 - added link to TM thread about booster seats/seat belt extenders.