ZXavier’s Your Only Guide To Hustle

At the bottom I've included the link to all of the "Silence" frame data docs made by gentlem.carbage from the Your Only Move Is Hustle community (please note that the Silence docs are up-to-date with the unstable version of the game, so there could be some inconsistencies for stable). The wiki hasn’t been worked on in a while, so it isn’t as up-to-date as the Silence docs. YouTuber “YOMI Learn” (GrimZealot) has a discord which also includes all the frame data here: https://discord.gg/ySBSY2xYVc.

Additionally, if you have any questions you’d like to ask, feel free to ask me on discord: zxavier

“Basic” Knowledge:

Prediction System:

Every turn you get to see both character’s options. One side is yours while the other is the opponent’s. You have the ability to PREVIEW the opponent’s options and see how they would fare with your own actions. The game naturally defaults on the “Hold” action. It’ll continue your previous action, if it’s not fully completed. If it is fully completed, then “Hold” typically functions the same as “Wait”. (Will be talked about in a bit more detail in the Movement section).

The prediction system can be separated into two parts:

A) Frame advantage

B) Colours

For frame advantage, the game will say how advantageous or disadvantageous your option will be in comparison to the opponent's. E.g. If you selected Punch with Ninja vs Wait (default) you'd see “frame advantage: -4”, for example. If you selected Punch with Ninja vs Kick with Ninja, you'd see “frame advantage: +4”.

For colours, you might have seen the characters flash green or orange in the predictions. Green means they'll be able to act next turn at this point. Orange means you'll be able to go at this point, but it won't be the next turn. Orange is usually seen during combos or if you're in endlag. If the character remains the same colour, then they're in hitstun. If you try to do an attack and the opponent flashes green that means the attack isn't guaranteed to hit.

In addition to when characters flash the colours, the character will have a “Ready In (X)f” appear by their head. E.g. An opposing Ninja does a Punch (14f) while you use select Wait (10f). The Ninja will flash orange and show “Ready In 14f” while you flash green and show “Ready In 10f”.

Prediction Options:

Under the "Flip" toggle is a ^ icon. If you click on that, you get more options at the bottom which affect the prediction. Personally, I have the first three all turned on and I play at x0.25 speed in order to more easily see when the characters change colour. Additionally there's a "clear particles" button which can help clear the screen of random visual effects.

Directional Influence (DI):

A very important tool in order to not get comboed endlessly. If you've ever played Smash Bros, it's the same concept. If you DI left, you get sent further to the left. DI right sends you right. DI up, up. DI down, down. Generally you want to be doing DI away from the opponent (left or right, depending on which side the opponent is in comparison to you).

At the corner, you'd want to change the DI to be either DI in or up. The longer a combo goes on, the more drastic the effect DI will have on the combo. You can see the multiplier above the DI wheel. Additionally, you're able to see the opponent's DI direction by looking at their character in a combo. There are yellow/orange arrows that show up in the direction they're DI-ing. The longer the combo, the more easily you can see these arrows.

Free Cancels (FC):

The next time the opponent turns green and is able to act, so can you. Note: This only happens if both you and the opponent DON'T hit each other. Therefore, the best time to use it is when you're not 100% able to hit the opponent. E.g. You use Ninja’s Kick (18f total) and the opponent does Wait (10f). Normally, you’d see “frame advantage: -8”. due to not hitting the opponent. If you used a FC with the Kick, you’d be able to cancel your Kick into something different at the same time the opponent can act.

You get 2 of them to use per neutral (you can see the X under the HP) but if either you OR the opponent takes damage by a melee attack (not projectiles), then both you as well as the opponent gain them back.

Additionally, hitting an opponent's block on the same turn you use a FC will give you your FC back. Not everything can be FC'd. Additionally, if you’re out of both of your FCs, it will turn purple. When it’s purple, you can continue to use FCs, however it will cost 1 meter in order to use it.

Lastly, hitting certain projectiles will automatically FC your attack, without the consumption of one of your FCs. E.g. hitting one of Ninja’s Kunai’s from Summon will let you act on the opponent’s turn, even if you don’t use a FC.

Movement:

Dash/Walk:

The most basic movement option in the game. Ninja, Wizard, and Mutant have “Dash” while Cowboy has “Walk. Robot doesn’t have access to Dash/Walk and instead has STEP & PROPEL.

While using Dash/Walk, you have access to a slider ranging from 0-100. Based on how far you move the slider, your character will travel faster & further. Additionally, the slider will affect how long you’ll do the Dash/Walk for.

If you use Dash/Walk in combo, it’ll always be 8f, regardless of how far you end up moving the slider. Listed below is how long you’ll be able to do the Dash/Walk at max during neutral:

10f: 0-9

11f: 10-29

12f: 30-49

13: 50-70

14f: 71-90

15: 91-100

A neat part about Dash/Walk is that you’ll automatically be actionable at the same time as the opponent. Essentially, it has a built-in FC. I talk about this more in the “Advanced” section at the bottom in IASA & How To Manipulate It.

To briefly talk about Robot’s options, STEP it’s a fixed 10f while moving toward the opponent, but 12f if flipped. It has a hitbox the turn after using it. It does NOT have a built-in FC. PROPEL on the other hand has a built in FC like the other movement options. It can last up to 12f. One neat part about PROPEL is that you maintain your forward momentum on your next action if your PROPEL lasts for at least 4f.

Back Dash/Walk:

It’s moving, but backwards! Back Dash/Walk isn’t as similar to forward Dash/Walk as you may think. It’s a bit more simple. Instead of having a slider, you move backwards for 11f.

Just like forward Dash/Walk, it has that built-in FC, allowing for it to be less than 11f. If the opponent does a forward movement option like forward Dash/Walk while you use Back Dash/Walk, it’ll cause the Back Dash/Walk to last longer than 11f. This is further talked about in IASA & How To Manipulate It.

For Robot, after they use STEP, they get access to RETURN. It moves the Robot back to where they were previously in 10f.

Super Dash:

A very fast Dash forwards that requires a bit of “charging up” first. You charge up for the first 7f, then go zooming forward starting on 8f. Just like the other dashes, it has the built-in FC. Super Dash can last up to 22f.

A neat fact is that Robot’s Super Dash gives them projectile armor starting on 8f > 22f, if you decided to Hold on 17f.

Wait & Hold:

Wait and Hold are two actions that, at first glance, may seem very similar to each other.

Wait will make you do nothing for up to 10f. (In the air, Wait is replaced with Fall. It’s essentially the same, but it makes you do nothing for up to 11f instead of 10f). Doing Wait will also allow you to act at the same time as the opponent, similar to a Free Cancel.

Hold on the other hand will continue your current action. The game will automatically default to Hold, whenever you’re able to choose an action. E.g. You do a Free Cancelled Jump Kick with Ninja and the attack is about to hit the opponent. You could choose to do Hold, allowing for your attack to continue, or you could cancel it into something else.

Sometimes, Hold will return you to a “default state” and act similarly to Wait. E.g. You do a Back Dash with Ninja, then Hold the following action. You’ll end up doing nothing, which is the same as what Wait would do.

Newer players tend to not use Wait/Hold much, since they don’t fully understand why you’d want to do nothing. One quick example would be something like: e.g. Your opponent is able to act in only 1f. If you do Wait, you’ll also be able to act in only 1f. This means instead of telegraphing what attack/option you’d really like to make, you instead chose to do it at the same time as the opponent’s next action.

Air Options:

Under each character except for Robot, there’s a white circle. You typically have only one Air Option during neutral, but you get access to another Air Option during combo.

You use Air Options when using certain options while in the air. The main one is Jump. Every character has alternative ways to consume an Air Option. E.g. Ninja’s Air Dash is an alternative way to use an Air Option. E.g.2 Cowboy’s 3 Combo uses an Air Option when it’s used in the air.

Robot’s Air Options are replaced with a fuel meter. The fuel meter will drain over time while Robot uses their Fly toggle in the air. It recharges while on the ground, or when hitting the opponent- including if they block the attack.

Jump:

The second most basic movement in the game. Jump can be angled to go either forward or backwards. When you do the Jump, there are two versions of it. Short Jumps and Full Jumps. Short Jumps are 10f while Full Jumps are 11f.

If you aim your Jump to be at/below, the green line in the semi-circle it will give you a Short Jump. If you aim your Jump to be above the green line of the semi-circle, it will give you a Full Jump.

If you do a Full Jump, if you aim directly up or backwards, you’ll have an extra 4f of “jump squat” startup before going into the air. This makes Full Jumps backwards to be a total of 15f. During neutral, doing a Full Jump forward adds an extra 1f of “jump squat” startup, making it 12f.

Just like with the other movement options, Jump naturally FCs. Just like Back Dash/Walk, it can last for longer than the giving amounts which is further talked about in IASA & How To Manipulate It.

Super Jump:

Super Jump is a weird case. In neutral, it’ll automatically launch yourself toward where the opponent currently is. In combo however, you get the ability to aim it. In either scenario, it will be actionable in 13f.

It also has the built-in FC, but Super Jump’s will only start if you’re in the air. With Super Jump, you’ll go into the air on 8f.

One neat fact is that, just like with Super Dash, Robot’s Super Jump gives them projectile armor. This starts on 5f and continues until 13f.

Super Fall:

This movement option is only available on Ninja & Mutant, but I thought I’d still mention it. While in the air, you can use Super Fall to move downward without using an Air Option. Similar to Super Dash, you charge up for the first 6f then start moving downward on 7f. The action also has the built-in FC. It can last until you touch the ground.

Burst Meter:

Burst:

This is your "get out of jail semi-free" card. It uses 100% of the Burst meter under your HP. It's an invul knockback that does 0 damage but counts as a melee hit in regard to re-gaining FCs. If you predict the opponent is going to use Burst, you're able to use Block and parry it, allowing you to combo the opponent still and having them waste their Burst meter.

Burst Cancel (BC):

Similar to Burst, this uses 100% of the Burst meter. This is a more offensive Burst which is usable only during combos. It's invul, like regular Burst. The main use for it is to extend your combo a little bit further. Be warned: if you Burst Cancel, your Burst meter will charge slower for the duration of your combo. If you’re in the air and use a Burst Cancel, you get all of your "Air Options" back as well. If you do Burst Cancel the same time the opponent uses their own Burst, you’ll end up having frame advantage and are able to start a new combo.

Neutral Burst (NB):

Just like a normal Burst or a Burst Cancel, this will use 100% of your Burst meter. Utilizing Burst in neutral grants you 2 meter, propelling the opponent away while rendering them completely invincible. This can be useful when the opponent is beside you and you feel threatened, or more aggressively for the meter gain.

Whiff Cancel (WC):

This is similar to a FC, except it uses 75% of your Burst meter and has more limitations. This is used AFTER you do an attack without using a FC and you're stuck in endlag. It's essentially the "I messed up and I'm desperate" option. Using a WC takes 2f before you're able to act. You're unable to use ANY movement or defense options, as well as any projectiles from a WC, so be sure that if you use it, you won't get hit anyway! (WC is a noob trap. Just because you CAN select an option, doesn’t always usually mean you should.) Some attacks however, move you forward, and you're able to Flip the attack with a FC in order to escape. E.g. Ninja’s Slide Kick.

Defensive Options:

HP:

Every character has 15k HP. That said, Robot takes 10% less damage and Mutant takes 10% more damage. Additionally, when the HP bar appears completely empty, this means the opponent is at 930 HP or less.

Block:

Block is a move that defends you from other moves. It's not perfect, unless you correctly predict two things: the height of the attack (high or low), and the frame it will hit you on. Your block window lasts for 20f. Most attacks, when not correctly predicted, will be "softblocked". This will damage you for a small percentage of the move's base damage- which is called "chip" damage- and inflict "block disadvantage" on you. Block disadvantage changes based on the attack you blocked and adds (X)f to the startup of every move, and removes initiative.

Incorrectly blocking a move's height will add 2f to the block disadvantage you undergo, but perfectly blocking a move's timing and height will Parry it and allow you to act immediately with no input from your opponent. If you do a softblock in the air, you'd add another 2f block disadvantage. Holding Block will repeat the same Block value you did last turn. E.g. You do Block High 5. On the next turn, you Hold. This will repeat another Block High 5.

Whiffing a Block will cause you to be unable to Parry if you try to Block again on the following action. If you whiff a Block in the air however, you’ll also be unable to use basic movement options in the air, except for Fall.

Parry:

If your slider number is matching the frame the opponent's attack would hit you AND the correct height of the attack, it'll become a Parry instead. If the opponent did a FC'd attack on the previous turn, then does Hold, then both the frame and height does NOT need to be matching- any Block will make it turn into a Parry.

When you successfully Parry the opponent, they will be unable to act and you'll be able to punish them.

After parrying an opponent, your combo will only do 85% of the normal damage it would deal.

That all said, parrying a projectile is a bit different. For projectiles, you need to use Block within 3f of the projectile hitting you. However, not all projectiles can be parried. The exception to this is if you enter a “parry chain”. If you parry an attack (melee or projectile), then do another Block, you’ll be able to parry unparriable projectiles. I talk about how to easily set yourself up to parry projectiles in IASA & How To Manipulate It as well!

Guard Breaks:

Some moves are known as "guard breaks". These moves will beat Block if used on the same turn you select the guard break attack, UNLESS it's parried. Guard breaks attacks are still able to be softblocked on reaction (and some of them are very punishable on softblock). E.g. Using Ninja's Drop Kick vs a Block High 1 will cause the opponent to get hit, since they didn't correctly parry the Drop Kick.

Push Block:

Push Block allows you to auto-softblock at the correct height at the cost of 1 meter. Additionally it will push the opponent away from you. Push Block will always lose to guard break attacks- unless used on reaction. Additionally, Push Block will reduce how much chip damage you’ll receive. If you would die from chip damage, Push Block will always leave you one hit away from dying.

Dodge:

Dodge is projectile & grab invul starting on 1f but has true invul on 3f-10f and lasts for a total of 19f if using Dodge toward the opponent or 20f if used to go away from the opponent. Forward gives you more momentum while backwards is less. If you were to Dodge through the opponent, they would need to Flip their attack and use a move which is 11f or later OR doing an quick option that lets you react to the Dodge then punish afterwards. Unlike Block, you're always going to be stuck for the full duration UNLESS you use a WC. Additionally, using a Dodge in the air uses an Air Option.

Hustle:

Hustle is this game’s version of a taunt. Outside of simply using it to taunt the opponent, it has two main uses.

The first reason is that the five main characters each have special effects that happen when you use Hustle.

Ninja: Puts them into “chuk stance” (and lets you act on 13f).

Cowboy: Has a hitbox on 22f.

Wizard: Will keep some momentum & slide along the floor while doing the Hustle.

Robot: Continues the pose of the last action you did. Style on them~

Mutant: Grants up to 3 Jukes over the duration of the Hustle. 25f, 35f, and 45f.

The second reason is because if you use Hustle then Hold for a total of 45f, you’ll gain 1 meter.

Combos:

Throw & Command Grabs:

Every character has access to a universal Throw. For all characters, it hits in 3f. The main use for Throw is that it can always beat Block. It can be used while grounded, or while in the air. However, grounded Throw only works against grounded opponent’s while aerial Throw only works against aerial opponents. While grounded, you can do a Dash toggle on Throw. This makes the Throw move forward a bit, giving it extra range. It turns the Throw hit on 6f instead of 3f.

Some characters have “command grabs”, which also always beat Block. The most famous one being Robot’s COMMAND: GRAB. That said command grabs don’t always follow the same rules as regular Throw does. E.g. Ninja’s Sticky Bomb can hit either a grounded or an aerial opponent.

Initiative:

Whenever you do an action at the same time or before the opponent can act, you gain something called Initiative. Most moves don't have anything special with Initiative, but for certain moves, it gives them special properties or effects. E.g. Ninja's Uppercut and BackSway both gain invul if used with Initiative.

Some actions will be faster if used with Initiative. E.g. Ninja’s Dive Kick when used in the air hits on 6f with Initiative or up to 12f without Initiative.

Inst. Cancel (IC):

A 1 meter cancel that cancels the endlag of your current move on a hit confirm and resets you back to your “normal stance”, allowing you to have all your usual options. Additionally, Inst. Cancel only takes 1f total away from your frame adv. I’ll list two examples of how Inst. Cancel could help you with combos.

E.g.1 Ninja's Quick Slash not only drastically limits your options, but if you were to Hold to finish the animation, there’s a good chance the combo would end. Doing an Inst. Cancel would allow you to get access to all your regular options while giving you a lot more frame adv. to work with.

E.g.2 Ninja’s “Chuk Stance” gives them access to only Nunchuk themed attacks. This is usually seen by using Nunchuk. By using an Inst. Cancel, it would return you back to your “Normal Stance” in only 1f, giving access to all your options much faster than doing a Dash or a Jump.

Combo Scaling:

The more hits you do in a combo, the less damage each move deals. The damage reduction can be quite drastic at the start but goes down slower later on. Each move has its own minimum damage value as well. Additionally, using the same move multiple times in a combo causes the move to have less hitstun. Below I've listed an example using Ninja's Punch for each hit.

Hit 1: +12 & 300 dmg

Hit 2: +10 & 210 dmg

Hit 3: +9 & 190 dmg

Hit 4: +8 & 170 dmg

Hit 5: +7 & 150 dmg

Hit 6: +6 & 130 dmg

On the 7th grounded hit, the opponent will be sent airbourne. If you're able to hit them in the air and put them back on the ground without going into a knockdown state, then you'll be able to do another 7 hits to send them back into the air.

Multi-hit attacks will only scale the combo damage by 1 hit, but each hit will count toward the 7 hits sending the opponent airbourne. E.g. Ninja’s Chuk Heavy hits 3 times. It deals 400 damage, 3 times, doing a total of 1200. The combo damage scaling will act as if it was dealt a single hit, dealing 1200. If you use Chuk Heavy as the 5th hit in a combo and all 3 hits connect, it will send the opponent into the air since each hit counts toward the forced airbourne counter.

Proration:

Every move has a "proration" or "scaling" if used as a combo starter. The larger the proration, the worse it is as a combo starter for damage. It's possible to have a negative proration as well. I've listed four examples below to show how proration affects the damage of attacks using Ninja's Drop Kick.

Raw Drop Kick = 1150 damage

Punch (Proration 2) > 820 dmg Drop Kick

Kick (Proration 1) > 920 dmg Drop Kick

Shuriken (Proration 0) > 1030 dmg Drop Kick

Sweep (Proration -1) > Inst. Cancel > 1150 dmg Drop Kick

In the "Silence" docs at the bottom, all the frame data for all the moves are listed, including proration.

Sad/Sadness:

A mechanic included to penalize campy gameplay. Sad/sadness builds up from multiple methods, but the main three is by moving away from your opponent, not approaching them, and also from using Block. Being high up in the air also builds sad/sadness. The higher your hidden "sad" percentage is, the more damage you receive & less meter you build. If you build up too much sad, a flashing "SAD!" will show up, indicating that you have lots of sad built.

If you continue to build sad, then you'll reach sadness, where a solid "SADNESS" will show up. At this point, you lose ALL meter you previously had (except Burst meter), you can't gain any meter (including Burst meter), you receive x1.5 damage, you take damage over time, AND you can't use any defensive options. You can reduce sad/sadness by approaching the opponent as well as throwing out melee hitboxes (even if it doesn’t hit the opponent).

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“Advanced” Knowledge:

IASA & How To Manipulate It:

Dash/Walk, Back Dash, Super Dash, Wait, Block, and Hustle have a built-in FC but they all have a fixed "IASA" or "Interruptible As Soon As". Essentially, the total duration of a move including the endlag. Earlier, I mentioned that Dodge is 19f/20f total. This would be 19f IASA or 20f IASA, respectively. As stated earlier, Dash/Walk ranges between 10f-15f, depending on how far you affect the slider. In combos, Dash/Walk will always be 8f IASA, regardless of the slider distance. Again, here’s the ranges for the Dash/Walk:

10f: 0-9

11f: 10-29

12f: 30-49

13:50-70

14f: 71-90

15: 91-100

Once again, Dash/Walk has a built in FC- meaning it can act when the opponent can next. In most cases, the prediction will start off on Hold (which defaults to Wait most of the time). Wait is 10f IASA and has the same FC properties. If you did a Dash/Walk 100 (15f IASA) and the prediction is on Wait, the prediction will show you moving forward for only 10f and not 15f. If the opponent did something else which takes longer, E.g. Ninja's grounded Kick (18f IASA), and you did Dash/Walk 100, you'd travel for the full 15f and end up being +3 after you're able to act.

Now, you might be wondering why this is important. Well, let's say there's a projectile and you go to do a Dash/Walk 100 and you stop directly in front of it. If the prediction is set to Wait, you may end up running directly into the Shuriken in the event the opponent does a move with an IASA over 10f. You can combat this by changing the opponent to do a move which has an IASA or 15f or longer and then lowering your Dash/Walk slider until the prediction shows you flash green. This can also help you for setting up a parry on the projectile!

Back Dash/Jump backwards, similarly can be manipulated. If you do a Back Dash/Jump backwards and the opponent does either a Dash/Walk or Super Dash, then you'll be stuck in your Back Dash/Jump backwards for longer than usual. Normally Back Dash is 11f, but if the opponent Dashes/Walks toward you, then you could be hit by a stray projectile or something you would have avoided otherwise. This is applied to flip STEP or any other form of backwards movement E.g. Ninja’s Air Dash moving backwards.

This last one is a bit different. Whenever the opponent would go into a knockdown state, the game assumes the opponent will be in this knockdown state for the max duration, adding 20f hitstun to the frame adv. Usually, this won’t matter but one scenario where it could make a difference is during Robot's air KICK USER > LOIC attack. When the opponent is about to enter a knockdown/OTG (on the ground) state, you can use a move with a high IASA to keep them there longer. If the opponent would flash green while sliding on the ground BEFORE the LOIC hits, you might be able to do a move that has a high IASA, E.g. THUNDER CLAP to keep them from selecting a getup option.

Restand:

A restand is possible when the opponent is going from an aerial state to a grounded state. There are two different versions of this. Sliding knockdowns and non-sliding knockdowns. For sliding knockdowns, you need to hit the opponent the same frame they would touch the ground. When the opponent would go into a sliding knockdown state, you’d have 20f of advantage after they hit the ground. In order to restand an opponent, you’d need to hit them on the 20th frame in order to continue the combo. E.g. You’re playing Ninja and you’re +27 while the opponent is about to enter a normal knockdown. You’d need to hit them with a 7f attack, like Nunchuk, in order to restand them.

Additionally, some moves do a “Hard-Knockdown”. This is a special sliding knockdown which has the opponent unable to choose a getup option. For restands, this follows the same principle as the regular sliding knockdown, except you’d need to hit them on the 28th frame, rather than the 20th frame. E.g. You’re playing Mutant and you hit the opponent with Sweep, causing a “Hard-Knockdown”. The opponent will be stuck on the ground for a long time and will be unable to choose their getup option, allowing you to setup without risk of them getting up sooner than the frame adv. tells you.

If it were a non-sliding knockdown, however, the opponent doesn’t slide along the floor & you have an additional 4f window in order to restand. E.g. You use Ninja’s Dive Kick to hit the opponent. Instead of having +20 like a sliding knockdown, you’ll have something like +10f. Since they’ll touch the ground for 1f then go into the “slide” for an additional 4f, you’ll have a 5f window to hit them in order to restand them and continue the combo.

Okizeme (Oki):

Oki is a term used in fighting games for when you have frame advantage and are able to pressure the opponent who’s in a knockdown state. In YomiH, this can be a bit more weird due to the turn-based nature of the game, but that isn't to say it doesn't exist. Lets take for example, if the opponent is in a knockdown state and is about to choose a getup option, you could use an attack which will hit the opponent on the following turn.

Framekill:

Framekilling is essentially doing an action with the intention of making yourself minus OR doing an action specifically in order to react to what the opponent does while you, yourself, are safe. First example I’ll use is for oki. E.g.1: An opponent is about to go into a normal knockdown. You do an attack and you end up seeing frame advantage: -1 (maximum of -7). The opponent is forced to choose a getup option before you, allowing you to react to which option they choose (it should always be neutral getup). This allows you to get oki nearly every time!

Another example would be for dealing with punishable guardbreaks, like Cowboy’s Impale E.g.2: Impales takes 13-21f to hit the opponent. Since Impale can't be FC'd & it's punishable on softblock, if you did an action that's 12f IASA or less, you would be able to get the softblock vs Impale then punish them after.

For the final example, if you use a FC’d attack, you can choose to Hold the remaining IASA of the attack instead of doing another option. E.g.3: Ninja does a FC Punch, which has an IASA of 14f. The opponent does Wait, which has an IASA of 10f. If Ninja does Hold on the following turn, the remaining 4f of the animation will finish, allowing them to react to what option the opponent chooses next.

Meaty:

A meaty is a “perfect oki” in a sense but isn’t always done as oki. A meaty is an attack that’s so close to hitting the opponent that their only option would be to Block. The hitbox can either be very close to coming out, or is already active. If you were to FC this attack, you now have a 50/50 between continuing the attack or canceling into something else. For YomiH, If you see either frame advantage: -1 or -2 after doing your attack, then you did it successfully. Some moves however won’t show you frame advantage: -1 or -2. These are moves that don’t hitcancel. They can still be used to meaty. Each character has their own different, more powerful oki/meaty which is better than simply doing an attack, but they usually require more setup.

Credits:

Credits to sev/trigger for helping me out with some of the sentences & paragraphs!

Credits to my irl friend Maggy for helping with assistance formatting the guide!

Credits to Tsutsuji for helping me learn how to add the gifs!