Leopard Gecko Care Sheet 

(Eublepharis macularius)

Common Name

Leopard gecko 

Scientific Name 

Eublepharis macularius

Origin

Native to Afghanistan, Pakistan, India, and Nepal. While they generally inhabit arid grasslands, they can be found in a range of habitats1, including developed areas and the forests of Nepal.2

Lifespan

Unknown in the wild. Around 15-25 in captivity on average.3 Reports of leopard geckos reaching anywhere from 30 to 40 years old in captivity do exist, however.

Temperatures and Humidity4

Temperatures

During the day, a hot spot of 94-96°F (34-36°C) is required. The whole enclosure should have an ambient (air) temperature gradient ranging from about 86-92°F (30-33°C)  to 70-75°F (21-24°C) near the cool end. Note that the hot spot temperature will be warmer than the ambient temperature on the hot side. At night, the whole enclosure can drop to 65°F (18°C). A temperature drop at night is both natural and recommended, so do not add nighttime heating unless the enclosure would get below that temperature. A digital thermometer is recommended for measuring ambient temperatures, and an infrared temperature gun is recommended for measuring hot spot temperatures.

Humidity

The ideal humidity is between 30-40%. Leopard geckos come from mostly arid environments, so the range is quite low. They can handle spikes or drops in humidity occasionally, and even in their native range, humidity can get up to 70%. However, a fairly consistent humidity in or close to the ideal range should be maintained to avoid health issues, such are respiratory infections. A digital hydrometer is recommended for measuring humidity.

Heating and Lighting

Heating

A halogen bulb or deep heat projector (DHP) is recommended as the main heat source for a leopard gecko. Both of these provide heat in the form of IR-A and IR-B and from above, which is similar to that of the sun and the most beneficial, efficient form of heat.5 A halogen is best, but a DHP also works well, especially for light sensitive morphs. Leopard geckos are crepuscular or cathemeral and will openly or cryptic bask if given the option!

The next best option would be another type of basking bulb, preferably one that gives off light (more natural), such as a regular incandescent. A ceramic heat emitter (CHE) can be used as well, but they only provide IR-C (surface level heat), produce no light, and create diffuse heating, which is inefficient for basking spots. However, CHEs are the best option if the enclosure requires nighttime heating.

Heat mats are very commonly used, but are not recommended. Heat mats do not raise ambient temperatures, only provide the most inefficient, surface level heating (IR-C), do not create a proper temperature gradient, and heat from below (very unnatural). Heat mats are best used in the short term, such as during the quarantine period.

Any heat source used needs to be regulated to prevent burns or improper heating. A dimmer or dimming thermostat is appropriate for any heat source that produces light and DHPs. An on/off thermostat can be used as a failsafe for a dimmer or as a primary regulator for heat mats and CHEs.

Lighting

Leopard geckos require a day/night cycle, meaning there should be a distinct time of darkness and coolness and a time of light and heat. If using a heat source that produces light, such as a halogen bulb, no additional lighting is absolutely required. Longer days in the summer and shorter days in the winter are most natural, but many use a 12-hour day and 12-hour night cycle year-round.

UVB lighting is strongly recommended for leopard geckos. Leopard geckos are classified as Ferguson Zone 1 baskers, meaning they require fairly low levels of UVB (0.5-1.5 UVI).6 Although there are many types of UVB lights, a tube UVB is the best and safest option. The exact tube you will need heavily depends on how tall the enclosure is and how the tube is mounted. Look up UVI charts for bulbs, which show the distances and UVI readings, to know what’s best. Keep in mind that UVB mounted above a screen will be reduced in strength by anywhere from 15-30% and that T5 bulbs are significantly stronger than T8 bulbs. A good place to start when looking is the Arcadia ShadeDweller.

UVB, although not necessary for survival, is hugely beneficial for captive reptiles.7 If it is at all possible to provide it for a leopard gecko, it should be. Light sensitive morphs, such as albinos, should be provided UVB with care. Aim for 0.5-0.7 UVI at most.

Enclosure Size

A 36x18x18”/90x45x45cm (LxWxH), which is a 40 gallon breeder size, or larger is recommended for an adult leopard gecko. This size gives a leopard gecko room to thrive. The bare minimum size for a healthy adult leopard gecko would be 30x12x12”/75x30x30cm (LxWxH), a 20 gallon long. However, this is not generally recommended as it is not sufficient for a leopard gecko to truly thrive.

Puglisi, 2019

Enclosure Substrate and Décor

Substrate

The best substrate is a naturalistic loose mix. This generally means starting with an organic topsoil and washed play sand base (70:30 ratio), then adding other ingredients, such as clay (highly recommended), coco fiber, peat, gravel, etc. However, a simple mix of soil and sand also works well. Keep in mind that any soil used needs to be organic with no additives (not even organic fertilizer, which is often animal poop), and any sand used should be natural silica sand. There are a variety of premade mixes available to buy, such as Arcadia EarthMix Arid. Some of these are suitable for leopard geckos, but likely not worth the price.  

Outside of the quarantine period when paper towels are used, solid substrate is not recommended. Solid substrate is very unnatural and does not allow your leopard gecko to express natural behaviors, such as burrowing. The main reason people avoid loose substrate is a fear of impaction, but a healthy leopard gecko with good husbandry will not be impacted by a naturalistic substrate, including sand!9 The myth that loose substrate causes impaction comes from a history of improperly cared for geckos living on bad substrates, such as crushed walnut shells or calcium sand, which are not at all recommended.

Many of the common solid substrate options are also legitimately unsafe or harmful. For example, reptile carpet catches on teeth and nails and harbors bacteria. Many shelf liners, including non-adhesive versions, off-gas, meaning they give off toxic fumes when heated.10 Overall, solid substrates are likely bad for joint and foot health since leopard geckos (and most animals in general) are biologically designed to live on non-flat surfaces. Even some loose substrate options are unfavorable. Crushed walnut shells and calcium sand are both very unnatural and bad for the digestive system. Eco-Earth (coconut fiber) is commonly used because it’s thought to be more digestible than dirt and sand, but that’s untrue, and the consistency and dustiness are bad for leopard geckos. Bark substrates (such as Repti-Chips) are also very unnatural and cannot be used for burrowing.

Décor

The space inside any leopard gecko enclosure should be well filled. The myth that large enclosures stress reptiles comes from keepers who have barren, empty enclosures. A large, open space will stress out a reptile, so properly decorate the enclosure!

The most important basic elements are a hot hide, a cool hide, a humid hide/area, and a water bowl. The hot and cool hides will be at opposite ends of the enclosure, and the humid hide or area should be regularly misted/watered, but especially when near shedding time. Beyond these fundamental components, an enclosure should have a variety of textures (different types of wood, bark, stone, etc.), climbing opportunities, and appropriate cover. In doing all this, the enclosure will likely end up with much more than just 2-3 hides, which is a good thing! Many of these components will come naturally – fake or real plants provide cover and textures, rocks make a great basking spot, cork bark is good for climbing and texture, etc.

Keep in mind when using UVB especially that a leopard gecko should be able to find cover or a hiding place throughout the enclosure. If they want to, the gecko should be able to completely hide away from any light, even during the daytime. Remember that reptiles feel most secure in hides that aren’t much bigger than their bodies when shopping for décor.

Author’s images

Feeding and Supplementation

Feeding

Leopard geckos are carnivores and insectivores, meaning their diet is almost entirely invertebrates. There are many feeders that are readily available in shops or online, such as crickets, mealworms, and roaches. The best diet for a leopard gecko is a varied one. A common method is to choose a staple feeder or two out of the healthiest options to feed regularly and then to supplement as frequently as possible with other feeder choices. For example, the staples could be dubia roaches and crickets, and treats or variety could be everything from hornworms to earthworms. Be aware that some feeders, such as superworms or waxworms, are not suitable as regular feeders11, so research should be done ahead of time on the nutritional value of feeders. Remember that any feeder used needs to be properly gutloaded, meaning fed nutritional foods (ex: fresh vegetables), prior to being given to a leopard gecko.

A leopard gecko’s feeding schedule will depend heavily on age and the individual. Very young leopard geckos will eat every day, and some will even eat quite large meals each day. Juvenile or subadult leopard geckos, such as ones around 8 months of age, could eat every 2 days. Adults are likely only going to eat once or twice a week. The exact meal size and frequency will depend on the individual, though, so simply keep in mind that younger geckos, which are growing quickly, will generally eat more than older ones and go from there. Cut back on feeding in either meal size or frequency (or both!) if the leopard gecko seems overweight. An overweight leopard gecko is an unhealthy leopard gecko.

Northern NV Leopard Geckos, 2020

Supplementation

Supplements are an absolutely necessary component of leopard gecko diets. In the wild, leopard geckos are able to eat a wide variety of prey, and their prey will have eaten a wide variety of food themselves, giving the leopard geckos all the vitamins and minerals they could possibly need. However, in captivity, there is no way to replicate this perfectly without supplements. The exact schedule of supplementation will depend on the feeding schedule, age, and UVB lighting of the leopard gecko.

A good place to start is to buy some calcium with D3, pure calcium, and a multivitamin (all should be products meant for reptiles). If you use UVB, you will likely not need to use a calcium with D3 supplement often since the UVB lighting will provide the gecko with the D3 it needs, taking the guesswork out of how much to supplement. D3 is vital to any leopard gecko, whether in supplement or UVB form, since it allows them to use calcium in their bodies.13 Without it, they will become calcium deficient and develop metabolic bone disease (MBD). However, be mindful that too much D3 can lead to an overdose.

Remember that any calcium supplement purchased should be phosphorus free. Phosphorus will be provided naturally in the leopard gecko’s prey items, so there is no need to supplement with more. Additionally, too much phosphorus can result in a calcium deficiency, which can lead to MBD. It’s also important to be aware of the exact content of any calcium or multivitamin supplement you use since some brands, such as RepCal, include an unsafe amount of certain ingredients.14


Behavior and Handling

Behavior

When it comes to looking at leopard gecko behavior, two good things to remember are that they are crepuscular or cathemeral and are prey animals. This means that they will likely be secretive, possibly skittish, and not active for most of the day. In the wild, they are mostly active at dawn and dusk or when it suits them best, but will spend the majority of the daytime hiding. Expect to see captive leopard geckos active and awake mostly around when the lights turn off or back on.

Some natural behaviors of leopard geckos include tongue flicking, digging, and exploration/investigation. These behaviors are considered good and are signs of a healthy leopard gecko.15 Some behaviors that are signs of stress or illness are glass surfing, squeaking/vocalizing, tail dropping, rapid movement, and defensive postures (curved tail, arched back, and straight legs). If exhibiting these behaviors, take it as a sign that the leopard gecko is very stressed or possibly ill and take appropriate action to identify and fix the cause.

Handling

Like most reptiles, leopard geckos tolerate handling at best. However, they are considered good reptiles for handling since they are generally quick to tame down and move fairly slowly and predictably. Handling should be kept to a moderate or low amount, not every day or for longer than about 20 minutes at a time. It is important that a leopard gecko is somewhat handleable since there will be times when it’s needed, such as during cleaning or for health inspections. To get a leopard gecko used to handling, the common method is to first introduce them to a hand until they are comfortable approaching it (which could take days or a few weeks), then graduate to holding them inside the enclosure, then move to holding them outside the enclosure.

A leopard gecko showing signs of severe stress, such as vocalizing or a defensive posture, should not be forced to be handled. Doing this could result in the gecko dropping its tail. Even if the leopard gecko seems comfortable when picked up, keep an eye out for signs of stress throughout handling and stop if any appear.

Problematic Morphs

Lemon Frosts

The lemon frost morph’s main issue is that it causes cancerous tumor development.16 The tumor development is linked to the lemon frost gene, so every lemon frost leopard gecko develops them, and none are able to live a healthy, normal lifespan. They also tend to show quite classic examples of inbreeding or poor health, such as deformed facial features.

Enigma

Enigma leopard geckos have a neurological disorder called enigma syndrome. Enigma syndrome can vary in severity, but the general symptoms are star gazing, head tilting, death rolls, seizures, circling, and an inability to hunt. There is no cure for enigma syndrome, and the only way to treat it is to reduce stress as much as possible for the leopard gecko. This can be so extreme that the gecko can drown itself or need to be assist fed for its entire life.

White and Yellow

The white and yellow morph is problematic only when bred poorly. Some white and yellow leopard geckos have white and yellow syndrome, which is a neurological disorder with very similar symptoms to enigma syndrome. However, some breeders were able to negate these issues with their geckos, so it is still entirely ethical to buy this morph from a good source.

Conclusion

No one guide will provide an owner with all the information they will ever need, but this one is meant to cover some of the important and basic topics of leopard gecko ownership. Understand that the advice here is meant to promote thriving, not just surviving, and it should apply to the vast majority of leopard geckos (those with health issues, for example, may not apply). To continue research, a few good resources are the Leopard Gecko – Advancing Husbandry Facebook group, the Bioactive Leopard Gecko Facebook group, and the Advancing Herpetological Husbandry Facebook group as well as the research and writings of Francis Baines and Roman Muryn.








Sources

  1. Khan, Muhammad. (2009). leopard gecko Eublepharis macularious from Pakistan. Reptilia.
  2. Rawat, Yam & Thapa, Kul & Bhattarai, Santosh & Shah, Karan. (2019). First Records of the Common Leopard Gecko, Eublepharis macularius (Blyth 1854) (Eublepharidae), in Nepal. 189.
  3. Henkel, F., W. Schmidt. 1995. Geckoes : biology, husbandry, and reproduction. Malabar, FL: Krieger Publishing Company. 
  4. “Climate - Pakistan.” Climates to Travel, www.climatestotravel.com/climate/pakistan.
  5. Muryn, Roman. “Next Level Heating.” Animals at Home, 2019, www.animalsathomenetwork.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/InfraRed-Heating-for-Reptiles.pdf.
  6. Baines, Frances M. “An In-Depth Look At UV Light And Its Proper Use With Reptiles.” Reptiles Magazine, 3 June 2020, www.reptilesmagazine.com/an-in-depth-look-at-uv-light-and-its-proper-use-with-reptiles/.
  7. Healey, Mariah. “Essay: Why All Pet Reptiles Need UVB Light: ReptiFiles.” ReptiFiles®, LLC, 1 June 2020, reptifiles.com/reptile-uvb-light-necessity/.
  8. Puglisi, Jessica. “Leopard Gecko and Enclosure Size Comparison .” Leopard Gecko - Advancing Husbandry , 2019.
  9. Healey, Mariah. “Does Loose Substrate Cause Impaction?: ReptiFiles.” ReptiFiles®, LLC, 2 July 2020, reptifiles.com/does-loose-substrate-cause-impaction/.
  10. “Volatile Organic Compounds' Impact on Indoor Air Quality.” EPA, Environmental Protection Agency, 6 Nov. 2017, www.epa.gov/indoor-air-quality-iaq/volatile-organic-compounds-impact-indoor-air-quality.
  11. Healey, Mariah. “Feeder Insect Nutrition Facts for Reptile Keepers: ReptiFiles.” ReptiFiles®, LLC, 5 Nov. 2020, reptifiles.com/feeder-insect-nutrition-facts-chart/.
  12. “Leopard Gecko Weight Examples.” Northern NV Leopard Geckos, 2020, i0.wp.com/www.reptifiles.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/69108686_3236277523064140_8094773593470140416_n.jpg?resize=640%2C620&is-pending-load=1.
  13. “D3 Cycle in Reptiles Explained.” Arcadia Reptile, 25 Jan. 2019, www.arcadiareptile.com/d3-cycle/.
  14. Healey, Mariah. “What You Need to Know About Reptile Vitamins: ReptiFiles.” ReptiFiles®, LLC, 30 Mar. 2020, reptifiles.com/reptile-vitamins-reptile-calcium/.
  15. Warwick, Clifford, et al. “Assessing Reptile Welfare Using Behavioural Criteria.” In Practice, vol. 35, no. 3, 2013, pp. 123–131., doi:10.1136/inp.f1197.
  16. Szydłowski, P., Madej, J.P., Duda, M. et al. Iridophoroma associated with the Lemon Frost colour morph of the leopard gecko (Eublepharis macularius). Sci Rep 10, 5734 (2020). https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-020-62828-9