DIY Mannequin Workshop

Instructor: Justin Greenough (jdgreeno@gmail.com)

Dates: All Sessions are 5pm to 8pm

August 3

August 10

Cost: $40 + Cost of Pattern & Materials

Skill Level: Confident Beginner - Basic sewing skills, straight-stitch

Online Option: In order to accommodate students who are located out-of-state, we will be offering up to 3 slots for Zoom participants.  If you are interested in this option, please email Justin.

Course Approach

This will be a self-paced “workshop” style class.  Each student will work at his or her own pace and the instructor will be available to guide and assist with questions or difficult parts.

About The Project

For this project, we will be using the popular “Made to Measure” pattern from Bootstrap Fashion.  Each student will take detailed measurements of their bodies and enter those measurements online when purchasing the pattern.  A computer-aided drafting (CAD) system will produce a PDF pattern exactly to those measurements, allowing you to construct a “me-sized” mannequin.

There are three options we will provide support for in the class:

  • “Missy” Custom Dress Form - Designed for “average” shaped/sized women
  • Custom Plus Sized Dress Form - Designed for women in larger sizes or a “curvy” figure
  • Custom Dress Form for Men

Note: The instructor is also reaching out to Bootstrap to see if we can get a discount code.  If you register for the class, we’ll reach-out to you via email as soon as we’ve sorted this out.

Skills to be Used/Learned

  • Basic “Stuffed Item” Construction Techniques
  • Iron-On Interlining
  • Installing Zippers
  • Stuffing an item and achieving smooth finish
  • How to adjust the stuffing to more accurately reflect how your body’s weight and muscle are distributed.

Materials

The pattern allows for a pretty wide range of materials to construct your mannequin.  Which products you choose will be based on personal taste and budget.  The instructor has provided some tips and ideas below based on his own mannequin.

Fabric - The pattern calls for any woven fabric including quilting cotton.  However, quilting cotton will often create a lumpy look to the finished mannequin.  It is suggested that you use a canvas or medium-weight home decor or upholstery fabric with no stretch.  BQC does not carry a large selection of these types of fabrics, but both Joann and “Just Fabrics” in Cranston have a great selection.

If you wish to use quilting cotton because you like the print or wish to support BQC, it is recommended that you fully line your mannequin with a heavy-weight iron-on interfacing.

The pattern will specify the yardage.  It’s recommended that you buy an extra half to a full yard, “just in case.”

The pattern may call for a different lining fabric for the interior structural pieces.  Any sturdy canvas-like fabric will do just fine.

Zippers - The pattern calls for two zippers, between 6” and 7” long, to close the bottom of the mannequin after stuffing.

Stuffing - The pattern will indicate how many pounds of stuffing you need.  You will likely use less as this is an estimate.  You may find the stuffing to be cheaper at Walmart than a sewing store.

Foam - You need about 2-4” thick foam to construct the neck.  Many people like to use sponges made for washing cars as they are roughly the right size and you don’t have to purchase a large piece.  Two sponges can be stacked if you like.

Cardboard - The pattern calls for pieces of cardboard for the ends of the armscyes and for the bottom of the mannequin to make it flat.  If you or a spouse or friend have the ability to cut the armscye panels from pieces of wood paneling, you may find them better than cardboard.  The bottom plates work just fine with cardboard, but choose the heaviest/sturdiest you can find.

Stand - The pattern suggests using an inexpensive coat tree with the top pegs removed.  However, if you are doing a plus-sized mannequin (male or female), a “Target or Amazon-grade” tree will be way too lightweight and your mannequin may tip-over.  If you have an old coat tree on-hand, this can be a very affordable option, but if you have to purchase one, you can often make one out of other materials for a similar price point.

Some options for stands:

  • A Medical IV Stand - These are around $50 on Amazon and are adjustable, already on rolling castors, and anti-tip in design.
  • DIY Using Black Pipe - “Black Pipe” used for gas lines is readily available and relatively affordable at the Home Center.  It’s usually either available pre-cut and threaded in 1-foot increments but some places offer cutting and threading services.  You’ll need a pipe the length required by your pattern minus the height of your base, a “floor flange,” a square piece of plywood for the base, and 4 castors.  Locking castors are recommended so the mannequin doesn’t run-away during use.
  • A Dowel Set in Concrete in a Bucket - If your mannequin doesn’t need to travel far or look fancy, this could be the cheapest solution.  A 5 gallon pail, Concrete, and a Wooden Dowel are very inexpensive at the home center.

PVC Sleeve - The pattern also calls for a PVC pipe to use as a sleeve that will fit over the stand.  The closer in internal diameter you can get the pipe to the stand, the less the mannequin will wobble.  If you are able to find ABS plastic (usually black) in lieu of PVC, it will be more lightweight and easier to work with.

PVC and ABS can be cut with any wood saw (such as a chop saw or hand saw) and most home centers have one set-up in the trim aisle if you don’t have one at home or can’t fit the full piece in your car.  You may have to buy the whole piece, however, even if you cut it.

The Pattern - You’ll need to purchase the pattern from Bootstrap Fashion at the following URL:

        https://patterns.bootstrapfashion.com/diy-dress-form-sewing-pattern.html?limit=all

  • Be sure to choose the “Custom” mannequin and NOT “standard sizes.”
  • Be sure to measure yourself as accurately as possible, enlisting someone to help you.  If you are unsure how to measure yourself, please reach out to the instructor well before the class dates.  Bootstrap also offers free measurement guides.
  • It’s recommended that you purchase the pattern WITH seam allowances unless you are accustomed to working without them and want to spend the time marking for accurate sewing.
  • It is recommended that you purchase your pattern at least a week before the classes.  Bootstrap’s computer system occasionally “hiccups” and you’ll need to reach out to them for support.  You’ll also need time to print and assemble the pattern if printing on a home printer.
  • You may choose to either have your pattern sent to fit on US Letter sized paper or large-scale “CAD” drawing.  If you choose CAD, you’ll need to have it printed at a copy shop.  Costs for large-format printing can be up to $10 per sheet at places like Staples.

Tools

  • Sewing Machine w/ All-Purpose or Quilting Foot and a zipper foot
  • Fabric Shears
  • Small “Snip” Scissors
  • Everyday Scissors for cutting paper and cardboard
  • Seam Ripper
  • Seam Gauge or Small Ruler
  • Quilting Ruler (optional)
  • Tailor’s Measuring Tape
  • Thread & Bobbins
  • All-Purpose Machine Needles
  • Marking Tools
  • Pins
  • Wonder Clips (optional but handy)
  • Rotary Cutter and Mat (optional)

Provided

  • Irons - BQC’s classroom space has several shared irons
  • Utility Knife - The instructor will bring a utility knife and self-healing mat to cut cardboard and foam.

Preparation (Before Class)

  • Measure, Purchase, And assemble Pattern - The more accurately you measure, the more “like you” your mannequin will be.  For women, it is recommended that you measure yourself in your best fitting bra or the undergarments you will be wearing underneath the items you plan to make.

    If you wear a variety of undergarments (such as sports bras vs. traditional bras or shapewear vs. natural) that you’d like to accommodate, you may wish to go with the smaller measurements (i.e. wearing the shapewear or sports bra).  You can always pad-up a mannequin, but you can’t take away from it.

    For example, if you want your mannequin to be able to simulate BOTH wearing a sports bra (which tends to flatten the chest) and a traditional or push-up bra, you could measure yourself in the sports bra.  When you want to make a garment to fit the push-up, you’d put a push-up bra on the mannequin and pad it out to your own measurements while wearing a similar bra.

    The same logic applies for belly-area shapewear such as girdles or Spanx. You could choose to build your mannequin based on measurements while wearing the shapewear and then pad it out if necessary for a garment designed to fit over your natural belly.
  • Purchase your Fabric - See recommendations above.  Because your mannequin will never be washed, you do not need to pre-wash your fabric.
  • Wind Bobbins - Please pre-wind at least one bobbin of each thread color
  • Purchase and Assemble Your Stand - We can only offer minimal help with stands as the classroom doesn’t have woodshop equipment.  You will need the PVC or ABS sleeve for the first class but most likely won’t need the stand until the second class.

About the Instructor

Justin Greenough is a hobby sewist and a native of the Blackstone Valley area.  He began his self-taught sewing journey in 2018, armed with only a middle school knowledge of how to thread a machine and sew a straight stitch, with the goal of learning to sew a garment from a pattern.  He started with square fleece pads for his cats to sit upon, moved on to doll clothing and eventually, a dress for his daughter.  He now sews a wide variety of garments that challenge him to learn new skills.

While many prefer quilting, which is puzzle-like in nature, Justin prefers garment and bag sewing, which is more like engineering.  As a computer programmer by day, this appeals to both his technical and creative sides.

Justin currently resides in Scituate with his wife, daughter, and three cats.  When not programming or sewing, he can often be found running the Christmas Bazaar or helping with some other event or ministry at Trinity Episcopal Church.  He also admins the “RI Area Sewists” Facebook group at: facebook.com/groups/risewists

Justin’s Favorite Products

Here are just a few of Justin’s favorite sewing products, many available at Blackstone Quilting company.  Those that are not have been linked to Amazon with an affiliate link.

  • Crayola Washable Markers - These are extremely cost-effective and will wash out of most fabrics without any problems (best to test, first).
  • Bohin Extra Fine Chalk Pencil - This pencil is perfect for the fine detail work of laying-out a quilting pattern on your fabric.
  • Pilot Frixxon Pens - These markers have ink that disappears with heat!  Simply iron your marks away.  Beware, however, marks will come back if the garment is placed in the freezer and Justin hasn’t tested them yet with January New England weather.
  • Wool Pressing Mat - Fantastic for smaller projects and portability.  Available in a variety of sizes, including versions that can be rolled-out to cover your cutting table.
  • Iron Thread Stand - This allows you to use large “serger” cones of thread easily with your regular sewing machine, which is much more economical for common colors like white and black.
  • Wonder Clips - These are a great alternative to pins and are especially helpful with knits and finicky fabrics.  Available in larger packages.
  • Clover Seam Ripper - Out of several tried, this one has the thinnest, sharpest tip to get under the smallest of stitches.
  • Tombo Mono Aqua Glue - This liquid glue stick with silicone applicators is the best and most cost-effective way to put-together PDF patterns printed on a home printer.  Regular glue sticks don’t hold and tape gets pricey.
  • Purple Thang Tool - Use it to swipe thread from under the presser foot, gently poke corners out, or tuck a seam under the presser foot as you sew.
  • Mary Ellen’s Best Press - This lightweight, odorless starch is perfect for getting wrinkles out of quilting cotton or lightly stiffening fabric to make it easier to sew.
  • Wash-Away Tape - Once you use this stuff to install a zipper, you’ll never do it any other way again.  It’s also invaluable for hemming hard-to-press fabrics like knits.
  • Karen Kay Buckley’s Perfect Scissors - These were a favorite of Pat from Ryco and there’s a reason.  They’re extremely comfortable, come in a few different blade lengths, and the micro-serrated blades stay super sharp and pointy, making them perfect for clipping curves when garment making.