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Mercedes Gearbox Controller

5 speed + Lockup

model 722.6

Contact :  olefejer@gmail.com

This is the standard Kit,

including Cabling and plug for Gearbox, Gear Lever, TPS

And a wire width resistor for connecting to paddle shifters

Optionel

Gearindicator 1”                               EGP / Boost 3 bar                Boost 3 bar

The pressure sensors are professional type bought from www.Mouser.com, and has a gel over the diy to protect to harsh environment, and it is 3 bar boost/EGP over environmental pressure

Here it is connected to Gear Lever and

TPS (throttle position Sensor)

Boost Solonoid / EGP Sensor / Boost Sensor  Only needed if used as boost controller

Getting started / installing the Controller

First Connect, all plugs

Gearbox plug the big one direct to gearbox

Gear Lever Plug to Gear Lever

TPS plug, to TPS sensor

Boost sensor plug.

Then Connect Power

Black to Ground, make sure you have a good connection

Red to 12V Ignition Use an 8 Amp fuse.

Now before starting engine, you have to setup 0% - 100%  TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)

PUT “W/S” in W position (if you have the Mercedes Gear Lever)

1.        Power up, but do NOT start engine.

2.        Press Joystick down to “SETUP”

3.        Press Joystick Right, to enter this menu

4.        Now you are in SETUP MENU.

5.        Press Joystick down until "Setup TPS "

6.        Press Joystick Right, to enter this menu

7.        Now width 0% TPS press joystick UP

8.        Then press throttle to 100% press joystick DOWN

9.         PUT W/S in S position, and do point 1-8 again.

Gear Lever

PUT “W/S” in W position

1.        Power up, but do NOT start engine.

2.        Press Joystick down to “SETUP”

3.        Press Joystick Right, to enter this menu

4.        Now you are in SETUP MENU.

5.        Press Joystick down until "Lever Setup "

6.        Press Joystick Right, to enter this menu

7.        If you have the 10 pin plug in the Gear Lever PRND4321. Press Joystick UP or Down to get “0”

        If you have no plug for Gear Lever set to “1”

8.        Press Joystick Right to save

9.         PUT W/S in S position, and do point 1-8 again.

Load

For diesel engine Momentum of the engine is if there is mounted a boost sensor ´calculatet by TPS + Boost.

This means if a diesel engine has 250 Nm width no boost, and 100% TPS that gives around 33% momentum. When boost kicks in and boost at 2 bar we then have the rest 66% momentum = 750 Nm

For a Gasoline car it is different here we just only use TPS, 100% TPS is 100% load.

“Setup Parameter” -> “Load - TPS Boost”  

Diesel cars where boost sensor is mounted, set it to 2.5

Gasoline cars 6 cyl set it to 1.5

Gasoline cars V8 or more set it to 1

When number Change it is saved automatically, no need to press right to save here

        “Setup Parameter” -> “Boost Part Load”

Diesel cars where boost sensor is mounted, set it to 33

Gasoline cars 6 cul set it to 1

Gasoline cars V8 or more set it to 1

Here you have to press right to save after number is changed to wanted value

Shift Firmness.

When you first drive the car, be wery aware how hard the shifts are.

If all shift are to soft. or to hard

        “Shift Firmness” -> "General Firmness"

                If shift are to Soft lover the number to get Harder shifts.

                If shifts are to Hard higher the number to get softer shifts.

Please be aware that if shifts are to soft, it can give problems that a shift not complete and it stay in the gear it was in.

A little to hard shift is always better then a to soft shift.

External Speed.

The best is to have the controller setup to EXTERNAL SPEED SENSOR.

But as many of the old cars do not have any, the controller can work with the speed sensors internal in the gearbox.

"Use int speed/Rpm" (to deside if you are going to use External speed sensor or not)

In Software > 157 there is two seperet menu One for “Speed EXT/INT” and another for “RPM EXT/INT”

PUT “W/S” in W position

1.        Power up, but do NOT start engine.

2.        Press Joystick down to “SETUP”

3.        Press Joystick Right, to enter this menu

4.        Now you are in SETUP MENU.

5.        Press Joystick down until "Use int speed/Rpm"

6.        Press Joystick Right, to enter this menu

7.        Press Joystick up and down to set it to “0, 1 or 2”

        0        You need External Speed and RPM

1         then you only need external RPM sensor

2         then both Km/h and Engine RPM  is calculated, no external sensor needed

8.        Press Joystick Right to save

9.         PUT W/S in S position, and do point 1-8 again.

An external speed sensor is absolutely to prefer, as there is some limitation on the internal speed, as the speed can not be read while shifting.

After connected the External speed sensor, run the car slow 10 km/h and see what the speed says, in “LiveData” if it is not correct adjust in setup menu

"Adjust Ext Speed  %  "

As much as I hate to say it, here it is…

This product comes with no warranties or guarantees of any kind. Both installation and use of

this system in any vehicle is done at the risk of the owner / operator of the vehicle. The

developer / seller of this system cannot be held responsible for any loss, damages or injury

caused either directly or indirectly by the installation or use of this system. The system is

intended for off road use only.

From here on all feature is explained,

Advanced Users only :-)

If you want the most out of this controller

You should get an overhauled gearbox, if not you have the risk of getting the RPM jumping up in between gears, i have seen this myself, and heart from others. but i have only seen it between 3 -> 4 all the other shift i had not seen this problem.

And if you want to shift gear under 100% load i just prepare you that you can see more or less jump in RPM between mostly 3-4.

I have it even in my E55AMG box and live with it fine

I just do not want to be responsible for you gearbox not shifting 100% correct ;-)

And as much as I hate to say it, here it is…

This product comes with no warranties or guarantees of any kind. Both installation and use of

this system in any vehicle is done at the risk of the owner / operator of the vehicle. The

developer / seller of this system cannot be held responsible for any loss, damages or injury

caused either directly or indirectly by the installation or use of this system. The system is

intended for off road use only. Be advised that the system will produce changes in the

drivability of your vehicle.

Q & A

Q:         Can i find any 722.6 on the yard and it will Work ?

A:        As i have seen the normal problem is that it jumps a litte up in RPM between 3-4

Q:        What gearbox is the best for high power project. 600 Nm or more

A:         W5A580 AMG box is one of the strongest.

Q:         What Year is the best

A:         As new as possible they have only got better and better.

Q:         if i find a W5A580 AMG box, its it then just mount and go

A:         get it as new and low milage as possible

Q:         What is the best to do if i want the best of the best.

A:         have the gearbox overhold and have all gone through seals in valvebody and clutches, and have them tighten up in clearance beyond Mercedes specs. the best is to set them up to have about as tight a clearance as possible but not to tigth so that they burn from drag.

Q:         but can i use an old worn out box if i just want 5 gear and lockup not for racing ?

A:         All people are different, but if you lets say run it in Manuel mode and let off the throttle at any shift yes it is possible, also automatic mode if it is crusing not racing.

Q:        my box was working perfect in the donar car and now it is slipping in 3-4 gear

A:        You have to remember that the transmission had torque management, meaning the donar car was limiting power during shift. and you will never see the state the gearbox really is in.,  as the clutches get worn out Mercedes adjust for that letting the shift take longer, meaning remove momentum from engine longer time.

Q:        Can a Normal 722.6 from a standaard E300 turbodiesel hold a momentum of 600 Nm

A:        Yes it can hold that but shifting under max power is an other case, from my experiencd the 1->2 is fine and also the 2->3 and 4->5 but we are on the limit here,

Q:        The W5A580 do not fit the OM606 what to do

A:        Get the Converter and bellhousing from 722.6 which was originally mounted on OM606 (Diesel Engine 24V)

Q:        I have a OM606 and I dont want to mess width bellhousing what to find,

A:        Find a gearbox from a E320 CDI as new as possible, they are build to high momentum. (This information can be wrong as i have heard it do not fit, i will try to find out) (The 320CDI box DO NOT FIT OM606 unless the bell housing is switched.)

What i am trying to say is that .get the gearbox adjusted  and looked after before installing,  if you want a system working Perfect.

If you can live width a little slipping when shifting under load, then try to install what you have but that is totally up to you.

main menu

Live Data

Here you get TPS “Throttle Position Sensor 0 - 100%”

RPM Engine, if taken from inside the gearbox, value is only valid when driving

Km/h taken from inside gearbox or outside.

AG : Actual gear used

VG : Wanted gear

OK : if 0 the box controller is waiting, if 1 then it is ok to shift gear, only 1 gear shift / 2 sec

L : Gear Lever  P, R, N, D, 4, 3, 2, 1

W : W / S  Winter / Sport

Then all the valves, used for problem solving under development, but nice to watch.

T : Temperature inside the box, only valid when in gear

Rpm internal part 1 / internal part 2

SETUP

When you change a value you have to press right key to use it,

If you want it to be saved permanently, you have to save it to default under the menu called “Userdata/Factory” / “Default W”, then the new value is loaded every time the controller is turned on.

Change value by UP / Down key

Press right key to use it, but if you turn of the box it is NOT saved.

To save permanently, do the following:

Go to Userdata/Factory

Go into Default, this is the one getting loaded when startet, it is also loaded when you put the mode selector W/S in “W”.

User Data 1 Now called Lever S data is loaded when  you put the mode selector W/S in “S”.

Then you can very easy shift between 2 totally different settings.

And you can save a third one for backup. under User data 2

Now press down to Save permanently :-)

Parameters to change in “SETUP”

"Converter Lockup "

        When to lock up converter in 5 gear, km/h

"Converter Unlock "

        When to Unlock the converter in 5 gear, km/h must be lower than the one above.

"Lockup 2-4 gear  "

0 = No,  (only lockup i 5 gear)

-1 = Like 1 but do not unlock if TPS goes below 10% (only lockup i 5 gear)

1 = Lockup also in 2 - 4 gear, if you put gear lever in position 4 you will have lockup also in 4 gear, this is useful when pulling heavy uphill.

2= always lockup in 2-5 gear also if the lever is in “D”

From Software 92 and UP

3= Like 2 but also no unlock with no throttle.

4= Like 3 but also shifts gear with locked converter, converter only unlocks if below 30 km/h This is only useful at Racetrack :-)

5 = Special only unlock if speed is below 10 Km/h and lock if in “2” and speed > 10, this is a special setting for an Electrical vehicle  (only from ver_140)

6= Lockup over a switch 12V in on (D0 kickdown 12V in), but then you can NOT use kickdown on this input, no soft lockup in this mode as it is for Racing / Drifting  (only from ver_143)

"Setup TPS "

To set up TPS to get exactly 0% released and 100% fully depressed, even if you only supply maby 4 volt at full throttle. This is very simple you press the throttle to 100% and press the down key, let go of the throttle and press the UP key, thats it, TPS is calibrated, look at last page for more on this issue

"LOAD - TPS Boost "

if set to “2” then it means that the Throttle depressed 100% gives 50% Load, Boost gives the rest.

"Boost part load  "

If set to lets say 33

{ EXPLAIN

Load = TPS / 2 + Boost * 33   

 EKS “50 / 2 + 1 * 33 = 25 + 33 = 68% load

}

"TPS Speed 25%    "

"TPS Speed 50%    "

"TPS Speed 75%    " see link below, show what happen when you change those

Here you can change values i think

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Ar0ZSC6ltshQdG9XWFR3VGd1Nkk3MkZuVElhakotcUE#gid=0

HTML link

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?hl=en_US&hl=en_US&key=0Ar0ZSC6ltshQdG9XWFR3VGd1Nkk3MkZuVElhakotcUE&output=html

///This part is no longer in after Firmware “117” there is a new menu width 10 points on every shift-----------------------------

When you have set up nice low load shift and nice high load shift. then you can finetune with number below

"Load at 25% load"        if you have to soft or too harsh shift at 25% load, if to hard lower the number.

"Load at 50% load"        same but at 50% 

"Load at 75% load"        same but at 75%

//--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

"Idle RPM         "

Only used in some cases, if components is mounted. and only if there is external RPM-signal as the calculated RPM signal will always be 0 at stationary car. it has to be set higher then 500 RPM, to get an output.

From ver 123

If set to exatly “510” something special will happen it will adjust idle to 800 when Gearoil temp is below 45 deg, and to 650 when hotter.

"Max Boost mbar.  "   Moved to Boost menu

Only used in some cases, if components is mounted.

“Volt reg +/-    "

        Here you can adjust the Voltmeter if not showing correct value.

“Temp reg +/-    "

        Here you can adjust the temperature +/- 20 deg  this is only to be used if you know it is displayed wrongly.

"Kickdown at %TPS "

if set to 97 then you will have kick-down if TPS > 97 if set to 101 you never get kick-down.

If you set it to 105 Kickdown would be triggered from external 12V source.

"LogData / GearIndicator"  Not in newer software, where

If set to 1 or 2 then you get log-data on the USB port at 9600 baud, you can use this program to make a text file wich can be used in EXCEL or other spreadsheet

http://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~sgtatham/putty/download.html

"LogData / GearIndicator"  = 0 (7 Segment display showing Actual Gear)

"LogData / GearIndicator"  = 1

What you get out in the text

Serial.print(millis()); Serial.print(","); Serial.print(Speed); Serial.print(","); Serial.print(Speed2); Serial.print(","); Serial.print(KmFromInternal); Serial.print(",");    Serial.print(OkGoShift); Serial.print(","); Serial.print(ActualGear); Serial.print(","); Serial.print(WantetGear); Serial.print(",");

    Serial.print(GearLever); Serial.print(",");  Serial.print(TPS); Serial.print(","); Serial.print(LinePressure); Serial.print(",");Serial.print(LinePressure+LineShiftReg);  Serial.print(","); Serial.print(walve_2_PWM); Serial.print(","); Serial.print(walve_3_PWM); Serial.print(","); Serial.print(walve_4_PWM); Serial.print(",");     Serial.print(walve_5_PWM); Serial.print(","); Serial.print(walve_6_PWM); Serial.print(","); Serial.print(rpm_motor); Serial.print(","); Serial.print(RpmGear1);     Serial.print(","); Serial.print(RpmGear2); Serial.print(","); Serial.print(boost); Serial.print(","); Serial.println(Load);

"LogData / GearIndicator"  = 2

Serial.print(millis()); Serial.print(","); Serial.print(Speed); Serial.print(","); Serial.print(Speed2); Serial.print(","); Serial.print(KmFromInternal);  Serial.print(OkGoShift); Serial.print(","); Serial.println(ActualGear);

"LogData / GearIndicator"  = 3  No Logging No 7 Segment display

"max speed fail   "

There is a safety function not allowing km/h to fall down to fast, should be set to max 20

"Slow upshift     "

The higher the number the slower upshift, by instant release of throttle, it suppresses unwanted upshifts, when cruising slow around in the city.

"PWM N->D P->R    " Called Garage Shift by Mercedes

IF you have hard shift when shift in to D and R the the number must be higher, too high it will not engage.

Default is 25, but you can make the P/N -> R and P/N -> D  softer by higher number try 35, but if it does not engages you have to lower the value, the first 2 times you engage R or D this value is not used, to make shure we have engagement first time.

(only in SW 135 or higher) If it will not engage in D or R set to 15

"PWM 3->4 N-D/P->R     (only if SW > ver_136)

The Valve for the 3-4 shift is triggered width a PWM signal when shifting from N->D or P->R this is default 50.

This is to give a smoother engage.

But if you have any problem that it sometimes not engage, set it to “0”

"Adjust ext RPM"

Default is 36, if RPM show too high lower this number, only use if you use external engine RPM

In Software > 157 there is two seperet menu One for

“Speed EXT/INT” 

and another for

“RPM EXT/INT”

"Use int speed/Rpm"

Use calculated Km/h from the internal parts in the gearbox if set to

0        Then Contrroller need both RPM and Speed from external source.

1         then you only need external RPM, Speed is calculated from inside the Gearbox

2         then both Km/h and Engine RPM  is calculated from inside the GearBox

5        (for speed compare, internal / external to werify rigth gear)

6        (for speed compare, internal / external to werify rigth gear) + External RPM

After change save settings and power off and on again, then changes is made

"Temp Line -20deg "

Adjust the line pressure at cold

"Temp Line 120deg "

Adjust the line pressure at Hot

"Temp Pres -20deg "

Adjust the shift pressure at cold

"Temp Pres 120deg "

Adjust the shift pressure at hot

"delay 3-4        "

Only use if you have problem with slip in 3-4, if you have, start with 5 and 1 up at the time, until it goes away, do not go over 15 then you have a bad box.

(only in SW 120 or higher)

If you set it to exact “-1” the 3 -> 4 shift only happens if TPS is below 45% that is great as you let of the TPS when you want the shift, and it shift smooth.

(only in SW > 150 or higher)

If you set it to “-1 to -9” the 3 -> 4 shift only happens if TPS is below -1 = 10% and -9 = 90% that is great as you let of the TPS when you want the shift, and it shift smooth.

"Reset Km Counter " (only in SW 128 or higher)

        Press Right         This will reset to Total Km to “0” Km

        Press Up         this will add 1000 Km at each press

        Press Down          This will subtract 100 Km, that mean you can adjust to a precision of 100 km.

"LoopBefore Shift "  Removed in newer software

        A wanted shift has to be repeated several time, to make sure no unwanted shifts occur

This makes sure that no unwanted shifts occur, the higher the safer, low or 0 = faster

"Lockup Start PWM " removed in newer software,

The PWM send to the LOCKUP nstant when it is allowed, lower if lockup is too hard.

"Lockup speed +PWM" removed in newer software,

After this time the PWM is raised to lock the converter, faster lockup smaller number

"Lockup Soft / Hard"

1 = hard 30 = soft

"Use Paddle shift "

Use paddles on analog 9,

0 = disable

1 = Read the value for testing

2 = Read the value and activates the horn output

3 = Paddle shift activated

4 = Paddle shift activated, and if in main menu, and paddle is pressed it shift to manual instant, and goes back to auto if you drive very slow in high gear, (only in SW 95 or higher)

"EXT Speedadjust  "

Used to adjust External speed in % can be used if you change your Rim Size.

"INT Speedadjust  "

Used to adjust internal speed in % can be used if you change your Rim Size.

"Time bet shift " = time between shifts

Used to change the minimum time between shift, if set to 1000 mS then you can shift from 1 to 2 then you have to wait 1 sec to shift 2 to 3,

This time is also used in automatic mode but here is added 500 mS this means that when the time is set to 1500 mS “Standard ” it is 2000 mS in automatic.

"0 point boost    "  Moved to Boost menu 

where the boost sensor has 0 bar on the 0 - 1024 scale if it is a 3 bar sensor it would propably hav a range from -1,5 bar to 3,5 bar 0 - 5 v  and the value here should propably be set to 300.it can be tested on the 2. live data page, where you press right on the live data, you can press right to get the second page. you should adjust until you just see a little boost when engine not running.

"Max boost at 5v  " Moved to Boost menu

This is the max boost your sensor can handle. A 3 bar boost sensor has 3 bar at 4,5 volt, 3,5 bar at 5 volt, this value has to be set to 350 “mBar at 5 volt”

“Show on Display at Startup” 

in live data, you can change what to display on line 3

0 =  Normal, just main menu

1 =  Boost menu, Live Data (This is if you just use the controller as Boost Controller. and want to have live data all the time)

2 = Start up in Manual mode, (RACEMODE or if you just want Manual all the time.)

3 = Live Data

“VNT Boost/EGP”  ( Moved to Boost menu)

Boost controller is used

1, 2, 3, 4 is for VNT Turbos 4 different algorithm to adjust boost

5 is for Normal Turbo

6 is for Normal Turbo more aggressive limit

7 is for Normal Turbo even more aggressive limit

8,9,.....................

20 extreme aggressive limit.

“Lever setup”

0 = MB standard lever

1 = No lever, N, P and R & D can be detected but not 4-3-2-1  

2 = Special For a special gearbox having a 120 OHM output when in “R” (gives reverseligth output on AUX-3)

“Limit Engine Power under shift” (Not in this setup menu, but i think you would try to find it here)

Under “GeneralBoost” goto Use PWM - AUX-4,  

The following happens for different value

2,         you get instant         200 mS         100% PWM

3,         you get instant         300 mS         100% PWM

12         you get 100 mS delayed 200 mS         100% PWM  (1 is 100mS delay the 2 is 200-100 = 100 mS signal)

25        you get 200 mS delayed 500 mS         100% PWM  (2 is 200mS delay the 5 is 500-200 = 300 mS signal)

By the way Engine limit only works at TPS > 20% (prevent stop engine at low RPM)

If you want to Limit Power on Mercedes Gasolin car, where before a 722.3 was

From Switch S65 on Gearbox width 1K Ohm resistor Pin 1 and Pin 2 width a relay

Manual Shift

Use the joystick up/down to change gear, 100% manual / or paddle shifters. / or switches connected to a rally type shifter

It is still only possible to change gear one time every 2 sec (Adjustable in setup menu.)

It is only possible to downshift the same as a kickdown would, Safety that you not turn over the engine.

Shift Speeds different gears

Here you can see all UP / DOWN shift at actual TPS,

You can test it by stopping the engine, go to this screen, and press the throttle, to see when it would change at that TPS.

Shift Speeds

Here you can change the value of all shifts

0%         throttle 1-2 called Min         1-2,  Upshift

100%         throttle 1-2 called max         1-2   Upshift

0%         throttle 1-2 called Min         2-1   Downshift

100%         throttle 1-2 called max         2-1   Downshift

Kickdown ok 2>>1

If the Speed is lower then this value it is ok to shift down to 1 gear at kickdown

RPM Kickdown 1-2

At this RPM it will make upshift from 1>>2

Kickdown ok RPM

Downshift width Kickdown will only happen if RPM is below this value

Shift Firmness

LineLowLoad         1>>2        Default value        = 20        (Higher value = Softer shift at low load)

PresLowLoad        1>>2        Default value        = 30        (Higher value = Softer shift at low load)

LineHiLoad         1>>2        Default value        = -6        (Higher value = Softer shift at High load)

PresHiLoad        1>>2        Default value        = 12        (Higher value = Softer shift at High load)

LineLowLoad         2>>1        Default value        = 20

PresLowLoad        2>>1        Default value        = 30

LineHiLoad         2>>1        Default value        = -6

PresHiLoad        2>>1        Default value        = 12

If you find the shift from 1>>2 to hard at very low load.

Then  try this

LineLowLoad         1>>2        LineLowLoad        = 22

PresLowLoad        1>>2        PresLowLoad        = 32

Remember to press the >> key to save the values.

And before shutting the car down remember to save it permanently under “Userdata/Factory (” version 2 saves it automatacally.)

And do the same for high load, if you find the shift to hard or too soft.

When this is done and you find that the shift are too soft or too hard at lets say 50% load, you need to change those

When you have set up nice soft shift and good hard shift. then you can fine tune with number below

"Load at 25% load"        if you have to soft or too hard shift at 25% load if to hard lower the number

"Load at 50% load"        same but at 50% 

"Load at 75% load"        same but at 75%

The whole new Shift Firmness MENU  (from version 117) Need to be testet some more

In this menu you can adjust all shiftfirmness parameters manuelly

In the gereral Firmness

You can adjust correction for temperature, and adjust general Linepressure

From ver 139 “LineAdjust” All changed to “Firmness All L=H”   L=H means Lower number = harder shift

This now adjust both LinePressure and ShiftPresssure,  Lower number = harder shift,  higher number = softer shifts.

If you want to adjust the hardness for different load, go in here.

If you want the shift to bee a bit harder at 30% load then just adjust, higher number is harder shift, but only at 30% load

before you leave this menu it is possible to save changes, it automatically saves in “W” or “S” depending on the switch position.

The last menu in Shift Firmness is the Min / Max at any gear, Just leave it, its fine as it is :-)

Rate Last Shift MENU  (from version 117)

This is the Rate Shift Menu

When the gearbox have shifted you see the last shift, and at what load, the shift was done.

On this oicture below it has shiftet from 2->1 at load 1% = no load

Here i pressed the joystick down, to tell the controller to make it a little more smooth next time.

And the controller reply width “Notet to hard” and it will make it more smooth next time.

There is 10 different load points, on every shift. and they are different on up and down also.

Speedometer Out

The Controller can drive a Mercedes Speedo.

The 8 pin plug on the back of the speedo has to be connected like this, the pin used is only the 3 down to the Right

Black = Ground

Yellow signal from Controller “TachoOut” (need to change to Speedometer)

Red = 12V

On the below type it is different, Found on internet, have not tried it myself, own risk

sensor for electronic speedometer - ( :. )-

Up left pin is #3pin - white wire - sensor signal,

Down left pin ie #4 pin - brown wire - ground,

Down right pin is #2 pin - black/violet/red-dot wire - +12V terminal 15 ....

wis record - ra54001240252x (54-0252)

 Signal out for the nerds :-)

“Setup Menu” -> “Tacho out”

Can be set to different value if the speedo shows too little make the number higher. start width the number “15”

If set to “1” then a test signal 100 HZ is send out, should show around 70 - 80 km/h on the speedo.

If set to “-3” then the speed will go between 0 - 250 ONLY for testing

Paddle diagram

Cut the wire coming from the horn contact in steering wheel

Take the one end to the Paddle input on controller,

In steering Wheel connect the horn true a 10KOhm resistor

Connect the UP paddle true a 32KOhm resistor

Connect the DOWN paddle true a 56KOhm resistor

there is also an output to trigger the horn relay. (it says 10K in the Diagram below but it is 1K)

The Power to the horn Relay and the power to the Controller has to be  on the same power source, to make sure it works correct, and power not flows backward from hornrelay to controller, (if power on the relay and not Controller)

Simple diagram width NO horn, Any switch would work all we need is one of the 32K or 56K resistor connectet to Ground to get a shift

Gear Lever Connection 10 PIN MB plug to 14 Controller plug

24 Pin Gearbox Plug

Pinout from Controller

Use 8 Amp fuse on the 12 Volt

External Parts needed to have a complete working system

Mercedes TPS Sensor from W210 year 1997 - 2002

If you get the TPS sensor from a W210 car it has a plug with 6 wires.

You need the plug and 10 cm of cable.

If you take the plug out you can read on the plug pin 1,2,3,4,5,6

the pin 1 needs to be connected to 5V,

the pin 6 needs to be connected to 0V,

the pin 5 needs to be connected to TPS input,

The last 3 wires from the Sensor is not connected.

MB TPS Sensor plug                                              Mountet on an OM606 in a G Class, Mechanically pump

TPS Sensor MB

When TPS Sensor is mounted, you go into “setup Parameters” then “Setup Tps”

At 0% TPS NO Throttle press the Up key on joystick for 1 sec         

  Now press the Throttle full to 100% press DOWN key for 1 sec

MERCEDES W210 E300 Turbo Diesel Boost Sensor If you need max 1,65 bar = 25 PSI

Then the originally MB boost sensor from a W210 E300 Turbodiesel can be used as it has a standard 0-5 volt output

I have only tested this exact type below

“Boost  Control” -> “General Boost” -> "0 point boost"      set it to 305 if this Mercedes sensor is used

“Boost  Control” -> “General Boost” -> "Max boost at 5v"  set it to 170 if this Mercedes sensor is used

Gear Lever and plug (it has to be the one with a “1” see red square on picture)

And the plug is a 10 pin, and have 8 wire out, thats the Gear Lever we need

If you are in the Marked for a GearLever, be aware that the GB (RHD), ones is also mirrord, compared to the LHD ones, an other thing is that the one from W210 is longer and higher, then the W202, and R129 it is the short that fits the W124 and older G class,

W202 / R129 fits W124             W210 model Longer and higher then the one on the Left, Do NOT fit W124

Part number 2022670637                                                10 Pin plug to on the Wiring harness

Tiptronic Yes and No

I can NOT talk to the Tiptronic shifter, if you want to use that, it is fine but you then have no switch for W/S but that can be any switch.

And I can only tell from the gearbox if you are in P/N od RD but that is fine but the function width hold in 4, 3 2, 1, and so on are not working.

If you want to use +/- You have to add some micro switch to switch to ground when you press + or -

and then connect to PADDLE input, thats it.

Reverse Ligth (Those 2 pin it shorted when i R for Reverse Ligth)

Boost Controller,  Parts to use

If you have a Vacuum actuated turbo where you want to use the built in boost Controller you should have one of these.

This is a vacuum valve meaning if it has 100% PWM, there are max vacuum = Wastegate closed, if 0% PWM no vacuum = Wastegate open.

The part is used in Many Mercedes cars from 1997 to 2000 both for boost control and EGR,

It is connected to the two pins marked in red, it does not matter how they are connected as it is a solonoid,

Here we see the Boost screen We have set the Boost to 0,6 bar and the boost is 0,63 thats why you see the PWM out is less then 100% = WasteGate is opening

update of firmware Install Driver

(Wery importent connect PC to controller when stationary, as the controller restart when connected)

You need to connect the box to you PC,

When connectet go to Device Manager, here the Arduino Mega 2560 (and Port number) should show up.

But only if it can find the rigth driver.

If it cant find the rigth driver, you can download this package

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B70ZSC6ltshQV2YxMkZzaXdiaWs/view?usp=sharing

 it is quite big, but you can’t just download the driver alone.

You will find a directory called “Drivers”

Update Firmware

Program to upload new Firmware

Download this software

http://russemotto.com/xloader/XLoader.zip

It will look like this

Hex file  send to you, is choosen.

Device Choose  (Mega(ATMEGA2560)

Comport (To find you comport look in Device Manager  )

Press Upload and wait until it says uploaded it takes around  60 second

Starter Lockout (from version 113)

“Boost Control” -> “General Boost” -> “USE PWM - AUX-2”

If set to “2” then the AUX-2 works as a Starter Lockout, it pulls the output to ground when in P or N

This can drive a relay, witch has 12 Volt on the other side of the coil. (from version 113)

I know it does not make sence this function is hidden in the Boost menu, but as we steal a AUX output from there, thats why.

The starter lockout will work no matter if you don't have the Mercedes Gear Lever og you running without a Gear Lever.

You can not use AUX-2 to other things at the same time.

Boost Controller part of the 722.6 controller.

The Boost controller can be used in different ways.

If you want to use Boost Controller

Goto “Boost Control” -> “General boost” -> “VNT Boost/EGP”

The value means the following

0 Boost Controller in PWM mode allow, you to specify PWM depending on boost, see later in this document)

1, 2, 3, 4 is for VNT Turbos 4 different algorithm to adjust boost

5 is for Normal Turbo

6 is for Normal Turbo more aggressive limit

7 is for Normal Turbo even more aggressive limit

8,9,.....................

20 extreme aggressive limit

At the bottom we have the Boost Control menu

In there is a General Boost, and all the many data points you can change

Lets say you have an normal Turbo, just want to open wastegate when boost hits 1 bar

Goto “Boost Control” -> “TPS -> Boost”  

Press -> on the joystick.

Here below you have 11 data points for any throttle position, 0.10.20.30....100%

Right key gives you next point, Left gives you previous.

Up key higher value, Down lower value

Check out this YouTybe Video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ULEGavGRavs

To see what you have programmed you watch the live data in the live data menu.

Here you see that TPS is 41% and the Limit is set to be max 0.6 bar boost = 9 PSI. at that throttle position. But as you see boost are a little higher, that's why the PWM out is not 100% it has started to open the Wastegate on the turbo.

If you want More Control over what happens, you can specify exactly what PWM signal is sent to the Boost valve.

PWM is Puls width Modulation. if it is 10% that means that yeo have 10% power to the solonoid valve, and wastegate is almost fully open

If PWM is set to 100% the solonoid will make full vacumm and wastegate will close

Goto “Boost Control” -> “General boost” -> “VNT Boost/EGP”  set value to “0”

Goto “Boost Control” -> “General boost” -> “Use PWM-1 Boost” set to “1”

Now the menu has Changed and ready to do PWM.

Goto “Boost Control” -> “EGP-Boost         -> % PWM” set what you want here         

Goto “Boost Control” -> “Boost         -> % PWM” set what you want here

Goto “Boost Control” -> “RPM         -> % PWM” set what you want here

Goto “Boost Control” -> “Speed         -> % PWM” set what you want here  

The lovest PWM value will be taken from the above and send to Valve

On Picture below you see that the boost limits PWM to  30 %

Holset CAN-BUS Control fromSW ver_144

And HW ver 4 the new Smaller SMD board

The Holset HE351VE is a popular VNT turbo, that is why i now support to run this turbo over the CANBUS output.

Goto “Boost Control” -> “General boost” ->  “CANBUS” set it to “HOLSET 1” or “HOLSET 2” if set to HOLSET 2 it moves the vanes the other direction.

Goto “Boost Control” -> “General boost” ->  “VNT Boost/EGP” set it to “0”

Now Restart the controller 2 times.

The Controller now control the Turbo depending on the settings in

Goto “Boost Control” -> “EGP-Boost         -> % PWM” set what you want here         

Goto “Boost Control” -> “Boost         -> % PWM” set what you want here

Goto “Boost Control” -> “RPM         -> % PWM” set what you want here

Goto “Boost Control” -> “Speed         -> % PWM” set what you want here  

%PWM is % position of the vnt vanes in this mode.

Connect the Holset, there is 4 wire coming out the Holset controller

RED / Green = 12V

Green / yellow = 0V GND

Yellow = CAN H

Green = CAN L

Picture of my test setup

Extra AUX output for other stuff

There are 3 more PWM AUX output,

AUX-2 

“General Boost” -> “USE AUX-2”

If Use “USE AUX-2” is set to “1” Then it works this way

The AUX-2 PWM out. takes input from the TPS, EGP, RPM and gives out the lowest of the 3.

From ver 159 (Start Fan for Gearoil Cooler)

If Use “USE AUX-2” is set to “3” Then it works this way

The AUX-2 PWM out. takes input from Gearoil temp and Puls AUX-2 to ground at higher then 90° and relases at 85°

if “USE AUX-2” is set to “2” then it is used as starter lockout. (search for starter lockout)

If “USE AUX-2” is set to “3” then the signal is used to pull the solonoid on the Gearlever, then it can not be moved in to R and P while driving more then 10 km/h  (It gives a ground signla, you have to supply 12V to the other side of solonoid)

AUX-3 

If “USE AUX-3” is set to “1”

This takes in Analog input 1 in and Boost, RPM, and gives out the lowest PWM of the 3 out

.

This output is also used for reversing Ligth if Lever is set to “2” and can then not be used for AUX-3

If “USE AUX-3” is set to “3” Then

the signal is used to pull the solonoid on the Gearlever, then it can not be moved in to R and P while driving more then 10 km/h  (It gives a ground signla, you have to supply 12V to the other side of solonoid)

If “USE AUX-3” is set to “4” Then it works this way

The AUX-3 PWM out. takes input from Gearoil temp and Puls AUX-3 to ground at higher then 90° and relases at 85°

AUX-4,

Same as previous just another analog input.  (if set to 1 it is used depending on A-2,Boost,RPM)

This output can also be used to get a signal out to limit power of engine.

Under “GeneralBoost” goto “Use PWM - AUX-4”,  

The following happens for different value

1,         it is used depending on A-2,Boost,RPM as AUX, not Pover limit function.

2,         you get instant         200 mS         100% PWM

3,         you get instant         300 mS         100% PWM

12         you get 100 mS delayed 200 mS         100% PWM  (1 is 100mS delay the 2 is 200-100 = 100 mS signal)

25        you get 200 mS delayed 500 mS         100% PWM  (2 is 200mS delay the 5 is 500-200 = 300 mS signal)

By the way Engine limit only works at TPS > 20% (prevent stop engine at low RPM)

AUX-4 Explanation

Analog in 0-5 volt out = PWM signal 50% means valve on half the time.

Boost in PWM out

RPM in PWM out

If we have

A-2 =                4,5 Volt         <=> 75%,

Boost =         0,9 bar         <=> 60%,  This is the lowes and 60% PWM is sent to the Valve.

RPM =         3500                 <=> 80%,  

Just a little more work then 2 X VNT in Compound

This is the Label on the V3 Controller

Failure Search

**Start Fail RPM-1** or **Start Fail RPM-2**

There is a safety feature in the boxes, that locks all shifts if speed is not right,

This can be triggered if put ignition on and start the car instant, Specially if you also gives it a little gas

If you put ignition on and start after 2 sec you will never see it.

**N at speed**

There is a safety feature in the boxes, that locks all shifts if put in N at speed

Please drive below 5 km/h before put in N

GearOil

It is very important that the gear Oil level is correct in the 722.6  but if you don't have a dipstick here is how you can make you own. as the 722.6 newer has a dipstick from new.

Mercedes Part number : 140589152100

http://autoimport.dk/mercedes_webcatalog/search/?q=KA-6953

http://mbspecialist.com/mercedes_webcatalog/search/?q=KA-6953&search-button.x=0&search-button.y=0

Here is a link to discussion of Oil Level

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1565510-w210-homemade-dipstick-722-6-transmission-2.html

SpeedoMeter

Great Link to keep speedo working on old cars from here

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/308791-380sl-diesel-conversion-project-15.html

FROM the link

But I figured out how to move the internal VR trigger wheel to the driveshaft and keep the tailcone with the manual speedo on the 722.4. Here's a diagram of the strategy. (The full thread on this topic, including images of the proof-of-concept test is here - Mechanical to Electronic Speedometer Conversion )

Essentially the driveshaft is turned into a trigger wheel by permanently affixing properly shaped and balanced "teeth" to the end nearest the transmission. An excellent mounting point for the sensor bracket is the rear transmission mount. Everything else remains stock. In the graphic above, the purple is the stock sensor, the green are the "teeth" and the red is the custom mounting bracket.

This strategy will likely be a good solution for others doing manual transmission conversions in cars with electronic speedometers.

Different information

Momentum for the 722.6 (W5A580)- 578lb/ft = 800 Nm

i think the strongest automatic 722.6 is the 722.649 this is connected

to the 65 amg and handle 1000nm

722.608 300 td diesel

722.623 some v8 petrols

722.649 e65 amg,s

Gear ratios

Where to find the gearbox

• 1996–1999 Mercedes-Benz W140 
• 2000-2005 Mercedes-Benz W220
• 2006–Present Mercedes-Benz W221 (V12 Models only)
• 1997-2002 Mercedes-Benz W210
• 2002-2004 Mercedes-Benz W211
• 1997-2000 Mercedes-Benz W202
• 2000-2004 Mercedes-Benz W203
• 1998-2005 Mercedes-Benz W163
• 1997-2004 Mercedes-Benz W168
• 2004–Present Mercedes-Benz W169
• 2005–Present Mercedes-Benz B-Class
• 1998-2005 Mercedes-Benz R170
• 1990-2001 Mercedes-Benz R129
• 2001–Present Mercedes-Benz R230 (V12 Model and Earlier, up to 2005)
• 1998-2002 Mercedes-Benz W208
• 2003-2005 Mercedes-Benz W209
• 2000-2006 Mercedes-Benz C215 (V12 Models only)
• 2007–Present Mercedes-Benz C216 (V12 Models only)
• 1996–Present Mercedes-Benz W463 (AMG Models only)
• 2005-2009 Mercedes-Benz SLR
• 2002–Present Maybach 57 and 62
• 1998-2002 Jaguar X308 (Supercharged models only)
• 1998-2002 Jaguar XK (X100) (Supercharged models only)
• 2004–Present Ssangyong Rexton
• 2006–Present Ssangyong Kyron
• 2005–Present Ssangyong Rodius
• 2005-2008 Dodge Magnum- All HEMI applications, all AWD applications and some 3.5L RWD V6 applications, year dependent
• 2005–Present Chrysler 300- All HEMI applications, all AWD applications and some 3.5L RWD V6 applications, year dependent All pentastar V6 applications
• 2006–Present Dodge Charger- All HEMI applications, all AWD applications and some 3.5L RWD V6 applications, year dependent,All pentastar V6 applications
• 2008–Present Dodge Challenger- All HEMI applications, All pentastar V6 applications
• 2007-2011 Dodge Nitro- 4.0L V6 Applications
• 2006-2010 Jeep Commander- 3.7L V6 Applications, 3.0L CRD V6 applications
• 2005–Present Jeep Grand Cherokee- 3.7L V6 Applications, 3.0L Diesel Applications, SRT8 Applications, all pentastar V6 applications
• 2011–Present Dodge Durango, 3.6L V6
• 2011–Present Jeep Wrangler- 2.8L Diesel
• 2012–Present Jeep Wrangler 3.6L V6

As much as I hate to say it, here it is…

This product comes with no warranties or guarantees of any kind. Both installation and use of

this system in any vehicle is done at the risk of the owner / operator of the vehicle. The

developer / seller of this system cannot be held responsible for any loss, damages or injury

caused either directly or indirectly by the installation or use of this system. The system is

intended for off road use only.

PC Program (This is Beta, not 100% tested)

DO NOT CONNECT AND DISCONNECT USB CABLE WHILE Driving

Get the EXE file direct, and run

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B70ZSC6ltshQMnpsRm96d09HMGM/view?usp=sharing

Driver for controller

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B70ZSC6ltshQV2YxMkZzaXdiaWs/view?usp=sharing

Conversion drawing W124  

Engine from OM603 to OM606

Gearbox from 722.3 to 722.6

The Propellershaft do not need to be changed or modified, just make sure the Flange fit.

If you have mecanically Tacho you can find a electronic one from W124 (420 or 500) make sure they are eletronic.

The Crossbare from any W210 can be used but 2 holes has to be drilled.

Overload protection on W124 gasoline cars,  (NOT NEEDED BUT POSSIBLE)

this controller can also send a signal to the Engine controller

But i have not yet tried it, all info i have found is below here

Please if anyone know how the S65 switch is working, please tell me, what i think is that it is just short the 2 wires but not sure. ?

If it works as i think the S65 simply short 2 wires. ? if it is like that then mount a relay to short, and drive the relay, width the output from controller.

Change bell housing,

Here the bellhousing for a OM606 is mounted on a SL55AMG W5A580 gearbox

Only a new steel gasket is needet MB number 1402774214 

1 Take out the Converter.

2 Take out the bolts from behind where the converter was. / There is 2 bolt from the other side

3 then the bell housing can be removed, together width the front planetary gear.

4 Take out the oil pump bolts out

5 tap width a plastic hammer, to remove the stator shaft from bell housing, it has a locator pin make sure to put it back correct way.