BTT Manta M5P Conversion for K1 Max

Table of Contents

Table of Contents

Overview

Benefits of this MOD

Useful Links

Bill of Materials (BOM)

Tools

Things you must know before proceeding

Software

Preparation

Preparation of the Manta M5P

Board Adapter Mounting

Wiring

Wiring the SSR

Wiring the Toolhead MCU

Wiring the Bed MCU

Wiring the Power Supply

Wiring the Motors

Wiring the USB Adapters

Wiring Other Peripherals

Setting up the CB1:

Flashing and Configuration (default method option 1)

Flashing and Configuration (KIAUH method Option 2)

Install Numpy

PRINTER.CFG Setup

Function checks

Overview

        The conversion from the stock Creality K1 Max controller board to the BTT Manta M5P allows for the use of Klipper without any workarounds. NOTE: Before proceeding, you will need to factory reset your K1 Max, flash your toolhead (https://github.com/K1-Klipper/installer_script_k1_and_max) and bed MCUs with the updated firmware, and then proceed with the installation.

This modification will allow the use of pure Klipper and many other options such as the TMC5160 stepper drivers, and different volages ( 48V or 36V via the m5p power supply to the HV IN port).  These instructions are meant for the 2209 stepper drivers and stock Creality motors.  For anything different, you will have to refer to the BTT Manta M5P Github and your stepper driver manufacturer’s Github for setup and configuration instructions.  Any variation to these instructions may conflict with the settings provided. Please read the entire guide before beginning the installation.

WARNING: This modification involves electrical and mechanical hazards, intricate wiring, and detailed steps. Only attempt this modification if you are comfortable working on complex wiring, electrical troubleshooting, and updating/troubleshooting Klipper configurations.

Benefits of this MOD

Ablity to use:

• Different stepper drivers and driver voltages.
• Regular (and current) Klipper.
• KIAUH
• Use safe_z_home
• Improved performance due to the host computer’s speed (CB1 / CM4) over the stock Creality main board.
•  Increased RAM, 1GB (CB1) and up to 8GB (CM4)
• The option to use native Klipper adaptive bed mesh.

Functionality Loss due to this MOD

• You will lose functionality of the LiDar.  It is highly recommended that you pair your m5p swap with an eddy wave sensor (carto, beacon, etc.) or Probe.

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Useful Links

Sbtoonz K1 Manta M5P Conversion Github with printer.cfg

https://github.com/K1-Klipper/K1-Max-Manta-Conversion/tree/main/Conversion/M5P

Guilouz K1 Factory Reset Tool (web based)

https://github.com/Guilouz/Creality-K1-Series/raw/main/downloads/Creality_K1_Reset_Utility.zip

Guilouz K1 wiki

https://guilouz.github.io/Creality-K1-Series/

Creality wiki

https://wiki.creality.com/en/home

K1 / K1 Max Updated Klipper Flashing Instructions

https://github.com/K1-Klipper/installer_script_k1_and_max

BTT Manta M5P Github (manual, pinouts, configs)

https://github.com/bigtreetech/Manta-M5P/tree/master

BTT CB1 Github

https://github.com/bigtreetech/CB1

BTT TMC 2209 driver information- https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-TMC2209-V1.2/tree/master

Klipper

https://www.klipper3d.org/

Tuning Sensorless Homing

https://www.klipper3d.org/TMC_Drivers.html?h=senso#sensorless-homing

Klipper Installer and Update Helper (KIAUH)

https://github.com/dw-0/kiauh/tree/master

Bill of Materials (BOM)

Tools

• Metric hex key set
• Wire strippers  hi
• JST-XH crimpers
• Ferrule crimpers
• Flush cutters
• Soldering iron

Things you must know before proceeding

• How to get your Printer’s IP address from your network/router
• How to format an SD Card
• How to flash an SD Card using Balena Etcher or similar software
• How to flash Klipper to a controller board
• How to copy/paste/move/edit/troubleshoot Klipper configs
• How to access your printer via SSH
• How to access your printer via Mainsail/Fluidd
• How to strip/crimp/solder wires
• How to interpret schematics/diagrams
• Stepper motor and driver troubleshooting and configuring

Software

• Balena Etcher
• Disk Utility (MAC) or Disk Management (Windows) or fdisk (linux)
• SSH Client

• Putty (Windows)
• Mobaxterm (Windows)
• WebSSH (MAC)
• Terminal (MAC)
• KIAUH hi

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Preparation

1. DANGER: Unplug your K1 Max from AC power before any of these steps. Death or serious injury may result from working on it while plugged into AC power.
2. Remove the bottom Metal cover from your K1 (this is the 4 rubber feet and 2 small silver M3 screws). Unplug the mainboard fan from the board and set aside the bottom.
3. Label each set of wires to make reconnecting easier, noting polarity.
4. CAREFULLY  Remove the screws from the main board and unscrew the terminal plugs for the power.
5. Once you can move the mainboard away from the chassis slightly you can start removing the glue on all the plugs. You can use a pair of sharp point tweezers to accomplish this job. WARNING: Be very careful during this step in order to prevent damage to the stock board, the connectors, or wiring.
6. Carefully unplug each connector on the Creality mainboard
7. Once you have all connectors and cables free from the Creality mainboard you can set this aside and start preparing your M5P. NOTE: You may need the stock board in the future to flash the toolboard MCU and leveling MCU with new firmware.
8. 

Stock Creality board disconnected

Preparation of the Manta M5P

Refer to the image below for jumpers that you need to install on the M5P. This assumes that you are using 24VDC to drive your steppers and are using TMC2209s in UART mode. Don’t insert DIAG jumpers on the Z driver, M4, or M5.

Motor Voltage select for TMC2209 - 24VDC (top red boxes), UART mode select (middle), and DIAG pins for sensorless homing (bottom right). WARNING: Only put the DIAG jumpers on A/B (X/Y)motors

Place jumpers as shown above to set 24VDC fan voltage..

Once you have these jumpers installed you can proceed to screw the M5p into the printed adapter for your K1 Max.

Board Adapter Mounting

1.  Print the Board Adapter for the M5P following the instructions for the model.
2. Trim the high spots of the ribs along the bottom of the K1 max so the adapter plate will mount flat and not be bent or twisted.  
3. Attach using the 4 ea. M3 self tapping screws you removed from the stock mainboard.

Wiring

When wiring the M5P the connections are as follows:

4. Attach the M5P board to the bottom of the printer using two (2) M3x6mm screws diagonally across from each-other (looking at the bottom of the printer with the back side facing down.

Wiring the SSR

5. Cut the SSR cable at the M5P end and re-terminate with a 3 pin JST-XH (2.54) connector. Connect "control", "ground", and "5VDC" pins pictured to the 3 pin connector and plug into the RGB2 port on the M5P. 

DANGER: INCORRECTLY Wiring the SSR can damage your bed heater and possibly start a fire.

SSR Pins (for K1 Max only) Signal, Control, GND, and 5VDC

Thanks to @sashi and @zarboz for their hard work creating this wiring graphic.

Wiring the Toolhead MCU

6. Wire up and connect the toolhead MCU RS232 adapter (see diagram above and notes below)

1. Cut off the connector for the toolhead MCU cable.
2. Cut a 15 cm length of black 22-20 ga wire. Terminate one end with a 22-20 ga ferrule and install it in the toolhead MCU RS232 GND(V-). Leave the other end alone for now, it will be finished during the steps for “power supply wires”
3. Cut a 10-15 cm length of  red  22-20 ga wire. Strip both ends. Terminate both ends with  22-20 ga ferrules (2 total). Insert one end into the 2-port WAGO connector, and connect the other end of the terminated red wire into HE1+VBB(POS).
4. Strip and terminate the end of the red wire from the toolhead MCU cable with a 22-20 ga ferrule. Connect the end to the second port in the WAGO connector.
5. Terminate with 22-20 ga ferrules and connect the rest of the toolhead MCU wires as described below into the RS232.

Toolhead MCU Cable to RS232 (Bed MCU has green and white wires swapped)

RS232 <-> Toolhead MCU Cable:

RX → White

TX → Green

GND → DCIN- (GND) see note below

The red wire from the end of the toolhead MCU cable

RED → to HE1 VBB+ (POS)

WARNING: THE GREEN AND WHITE WIRES ARE SWAPPED ON THE OTHER RS232

NOTE: If you are NOT using the leveling (bed) MCU for PRTOUCH, RGB1 port will be available for use. If you ARE using the bed MCU, that RS232 will use RGB1 5v and GND.

Wiring the Bed MCU

7. Wire up and connect the bed MCU RS232 adapter (see diagram above and notes below)

1. Cut off the connector of the bed MCU cable.
2. Strip the red wire of the bed MCU cable and terminate with a 20-22 ga ferrule. Insert the end into a 2-port WAGO connector.
3. Cut a 10-15 cm length of  red  22-20 ga wire. Strip both ends. Terminate one end with  22-20 ga ferrule and the other into a male 3 pin JST-XH connector (as shown on the wiring diagram). Insert the ferrule into the 2-port WAGO connector with the other red wire.
4. Strip the black wire and terminate (including the shielding) with a 20-22 ga ferrule. Insert the end into a separate 2-port WAGO connector.
5. Cut a 10-15 cm length of  black  22-20 ga wire. Strip both ends. Terminate one end with  22-20 ga ferrule and the other into the same male 3 pin JST-XH connector as the red wire, but on the other end (as shown on the wiring diagram). Insert the ferrule into the 2-port WAGO connector with the other black wire.
6. Plug the newly made 3–pin JST-XH plug into RGB1 on the M5P.
7. Strip the green and white wires and install them as described below into the RS232.

RS232 <-> Bed MCU Cable:

TX → White

RX → Green

GND → Gnd see note below

The separate wires from end of bed MCU cable

RED → to RGB1 5V+

BLK→  to RGB1 GND

***THE YELLOW WIRE IS IGNORED***

NOTE: The Rs232 adapters require a shared ground for the device they are talking to. Please make sure the grounds they share are appropriate. I.E. Bed MCU ground will be plugged in at the RGB1 GND. Toolhead MCU ground will be terminated at M5P DCIN- (GND) in the next step.

Wiring the Power Supply

8. Power supply wires

8. Cut off the ferrule on the 24V - (NEG), on the controller board end, that comes from the power supply. Strip the cut end.

REMINDER: You have not terminated the black wire from the toolhead MCU RS232 GND

9. Strip the other end of the black wire coming from the Toolhead MCU RSS232 (remember this is the wire from earlier).
10. Twist both of these (step 8a and 8b) stripped ends together and terminate them with one (1) 14 AWG ferrule.
11. Install the ferrule with the combined black wires into the DCIN- (GND) port on the M5P.

Toolhead MCU cable GND and 24V power supply GND into DCIN- (GND)

WARNING: Make sure the wires won’t touch the Z belt, or pulleys in order to prevent rubbing on the wires.

NOTE: Check that DCIN- (GND) has both the negative wire from the power supply and the GND wire from the RS232 for the toolhead PCB, are installed correctly. Check that HE1+(POS) has the red wire from the RS232 for the toolhead MCU. Check that DCIN+(POS) is coming only from the 24V power supply.

Wiring the Motors

NOTE: Failure to follow this step will lead to you having to pull the board out and wire them correctly.

9. Connect the Z motor wires to M1 on the M5P
10. Connect the X motor wires to M2 on the M5P
11. Connect the Y motor wires to M3 on the M5P

Wiring the USB Adapters

12. Install the USB adapters.

1. Cut off the connector at the end of the Camera and USB (for the front USB) cables
2. Strip and terminate to the USB adapter like the picture below

1. Red=5V+
2. White= D-
3. Green=D+
4. Black=GND or - (be sure to insert the cable shielding end too)

Wiring of both USB adapters

3. Install the USB adapters to the two stacked USB ports on the M5P (top right while the printer laying is on its back).

Wiring Other Peripherals

13. Connect the filament sensor to MIN4 on the M5P.
14. Strip, and terminate the chamber thermistor (white wires labeled “260C”) with a male JST XH 2 pin connector. Connect the chamber thermistor to TH0 (PA1). NOTE: Polarity does not matter.
15.  Cut and re-terminate  the bed thermistor wire labeled “TB”with a 2 pin male JST XH connector and connect to THB (PA0). NOTE: Polarity does not matter.
16. Connect the wifi antenna from the K1 Max to the CB1.
17. Remove the motherboard fan from the bottom plate. Re-terminate the fan wires with a JST XH 2 pin male connector using only the red and black wires. Cut the end of the yellow wire and cover with electrical tape or heat shrink. Install the fan into the fan mount and connect to the FAN port on the M5P. NOTE: The “FAN” port is always on, make sure to double check the polarity. The GND wire has a white stripe printed on..
18. Re-terminate the LED wires with a JST XH 2 pin male connector. Plug the LED wires into the PIFAN port. NOTE: double check the polarity.
19. Re-terminate the SIDE FAN wires with a JST XH 2 pin male connector. Plug the SIDE FAN wires to the FAN0 port. NOTE: double check the polarity, the GND wire has a white stripe printed on.
20. Re-terminate the FAN2 wires (back fan) with a JST XH 2 pin male connector. Plug the wires labeled “FAN2” from the side fan, to the FAN1 port on the M5P. NOTE: double check the polarity.
21. Connect the LAN cable to the M5P using a 10-12” (30cm) LAN cable extender and plug into the back LAN cable at the bottom.
22. Secure the LiDar cable out of the way of the Z belt and pulleys with zip ties. WARNING: Make sure the wires won’t touch the Z belt, or pulleys in order to prevent rubbing on the wires.
23. Attach the main board fan to the main board fan mount by placing the fan, sticker side towards the board, in the mount. It should friction-fit into the mount.
24. Install 4 ea. M3x5.7mm heat inserts into the RS232 holder. 2 go in the end, 1 on top, and 1 on bottom.
25. Remove the plastic shells from your RS232 adapters if they have them with a thin flat blade like a small flat bladed screwdriver.
26. Insert both of the RS232s into the holder and screw the retaining piece onto the end to secure them in the holder with 2 ea. M3x6mm screws.

27. Place the holder under the fan mount on the side without legs.
28. Attach the main board fan mount with 3 ea. M3x35mm screws. One of the screws goes through the fan mount, through the RS232 holder, through the M5P, and into the board adapter mount.

29. Attach the wiring for the board to points on the bottom plate of the K1 Max with zip ties to manage your cables. Ensure that wires will not rub on the Z belt or pulleys and that the wires won’t rub against or short to anything. Provide strain relief where needed.

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Setting up the CB1:

1. Head over to : https://github.com/bigtreetech/CB1/releases
2. Download the CB1_Debian11_Klipper_kernel*.***.img.xz (Make sure it is not the one that says minimal)
3. Use an application such as Balena Etcher to write this to an SD card.
4. Once this image is written do not forget to edit the system.cfg file in a text editor to configure your wifi/timezone/klipperscreen rotation before the first bootup.

NOTE: If you forget to do this before first boot, then use a LAN cable to connect the M5P to your network and SSH into it.

5. Insert the SD card into the receptacle on the M5P.

NOTE: At this point you should be ready to boot up your M5P and let it load for the first time. After approx 5-10 min you should see the M5p on your wifi (as long as you did not forget to edit the system.cfg before ejecting the SDCard)

6. Plug in and turn on the K1 Max
7. Find your printer’s IP address on your network. REMINDER Reserve the IP on your router, this is a “new” device on your network.
8. SSH into the printer using the IP address from the previous step.

1. Default username: biqu
2. Default password: biqu

9. Install KIAUH from the repo according to the linked instructions.

Install these at a minimum:

3. Klipper (1 instance)
4. Moonraker (1 instance)
5. Mainsail (or Fluidd)
6. Crowsnest

10. Get your MCU path by going to: advanced (4) > get mcu id (5) > USB (1)

1. Copy the path(s) down for later.
2. If you can see multiple MCUs, unplug the RS232 for the toolhead and bed MCUs to see the Manta MCU only. Plug in one at a time to get the others.

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Flashing and Configuration (default method option 1)

1. Run this command in your SSH session:

wget https://github.com/sbtoonz/k1_klipper/raw/master/InstallKlipper.sh && sh InstallKlipper.sh

Now you can proceed with flashing the M5P:

NOTE: Only perform step 1 if you are using PRtouch (bed MCU) otherwise run:

        git clone https://github.com/Klipper3d/klipper

        ./klipper/scripts/install-octopi.sh

2. Enter each line in your SSH Session
   

3. Use the following options:

1. Enable Extra Low Level Options: X
2. STM32 architecture
3. STM32G0B1 SOC
4. 8kib bootloader
5. 8mhz crystal
6. USB On PA11/PA12

4. Press Q to exit the menu config and save the configuration

5. Then type:

6. And press enter.

7. Once this is complete run:

8. Take note of the path it reports it should be something like:

/dev/serial/by-id/usb-123-port0

9. Then run:

 make flash FLASH_DEVICE=/dev/serial/by-id/the-path-you-found-in-the-last-step

10. Once you have completed these steps again type

And take note of the path it returns (it can vary after flashing the firmware)

11. Use this path in your printer.cfg for [MCU]

Flashing and Configuration (KIAUH method Option 2)

1. SSH into your printer
2. ./kiauh/kiauh.sh
3. Option 4 (advanced)
4. Option 2 (build)
5. Use the following options:

1. Enable Extra Low Level Options: X
2. STM32 architecture
3. STM32G0B1 SOC
4. 8kib bootloader
5. 8mhz crystal
6. USB On PA11/PA12

6. Press “Q” to quit and KIAUH will build the klipper.bin
7. Copy the klipper.bin to your computer. It’s located at /home/biqu/klipper/out/
8. Rename klipper.bin to firmware.bin
9. Put the firmware.bin onto a formatted SDcard with no other files on it.
10. Turn off the printer.
11. Swap out SD cards, put the firmware.bin card into the M5P.
12. Turn on the printer and wait a minute for the flashing for Klipper.
13. Turn off the printer and remove the SDcard. Insert the OS SDcard back into the printer.
14. To confirm the flash was successful, check the klipper.bin file changed to klipper.cur on your computer.
15. Turn on the printer.

Install Numpy

Go here to find instructions for installing Numpy for input shaper.

PRINTER.CFG Setup

1. Open Mainsail/Fluidd by typing your printer’s IP address into your internet browser
2. Go to the “machine” tab
3. Open your printer.cfg
4. Open and use the base printer.cfg found here as a reference. Be sure to make changes to:

1. Rotation_distance if you’ve changed A/B motor pulleys.
2. Full_steps_per_rotaion if you’ve changed A/B/Z/E to 0.9 degree motors to 400 (200 if 1.8 degree).
3. Position_endstop, Position_min, position_max if you’ve installed a probe/cartographer/longer nozzle/different hotend.
4. Double check motor connectors against pinout diagram. Z connected to M1, X connected to M2, Y connected to M3. NOTE: This may be different in the base printer.cfg
5. Diag pins assigned to X (M2), Y (M3), and not defined for Z (M1). NOTE: Sensorless homing is not used for Z.

NOTE: X(M2) and M3(Y) drivers are beneath the mainboard fan and need cooling more than M1(Z). This is a change to improve cooling of the most used (and higher amperage) drivers.

6. Check macros for references to stock K1 Max commands such as CLEAR_NOZZLE and remove/adjust as needed.
7. Add/remove/adjust configurations for any mods you have installed that differ from the stock setup.

5. Add your MCU path found in the previous section in [MCU].
6. Add/update

[virtual_sdcard]

path: /home/biqu/printer_data/gcodes

7. Save & restart.
8. Clear each error that is found by making corrections to your printer.cfg until Klipper loads.

Function checks

WARNING: You are about to activate the motion and heating systems for the first time since installing the M5P, use extreme caution during these steps and always be prepared to shut off the printer using the power switch. Damage or injury can occur!

1. Type in your printer’s IP address or (hostname).local into your browser in order to access Mainsail / Fluidd.

WARNING: Ensure that inside and under the printer are clear of any foreign objects that may cause a collision. Double check all connections for polarity, tight connections, and that there’s no rubbing of components or wires.

2. Look over all of the readouts for temp, fans, speed, accel, etc to ensure accurate baseline readings. Pay special attention to the bed heater readings to ensure that the bed isn’t heating up yet. If it is, turn off the printer and begin troubleshooting.
3. Query the status of each endstop. All should read “open.” Note: XY should be using sensorless homing, and Z uses either PRtouch, probe, etc. If an endstop reads closed, place or remove “!” in front of the pin name in printer.cfg or begin troubleshooting.
4. Check the operation of the:

1. Toolhead fan
2. Side fan
3. Exhaust (back) fan
4. USB Camera
5. Front USB port
6. LED strip
7. Check that the Motherboard fan is on (always on)

5. With your hands, move the toolhead around the build area to check smooth movement along the X and Y axis.
6. Home the X axis only- G28 X

1. If the printer moves but doesn’t home correctly tune sensorless homing SGTHRS value following the instructions here.
2. If the printer moves but doesn’t move the correct direction, double check:

1. Motors plugged into the correct ports on the M5P
2. “Direction” pins in printer.cfg might need an ! in front of it to invert the direction. i.e. “!PAx”

3. If the printer doesn’t move then begin troubleshooting possible issues such as wiring, voltage, pulley grub screws, tmc drivers, etc.

7. Home the Y axis only - G28 Y
8. Home the Z axis only - G28 Z

NOTE: The X and Y axis should home with a tap at the end of the axis. The Z axis should trigger as it hits the nozzle/probe. If it continues past the end stop, check that DIAG pin jumpers were installed correctly for the A and B motors and not on the Z motor, and check that your probe/prtouch/z endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop (probe) tmc2209_stepper_z:virtual_endstop (prtouch)

9. Home all axis - G28
10. Set the extruder temp to 50C and watch all of the temperature readings available to see that the correct one changes and that the hotend fan turns on at the desired temp. If it does not, check wiring and printer.cfg
11. Set the extruder temp to 0C and make sure the heater turns off and temperature begins to go down. If it does not, turn off the printer and begin troubleshooting.
12. Set the bed temp to 50C and watch all of the temperature readings available to see that the correct one changes.
13. Set the bed temp to 0C and make sure the heater turns off and temperature begins to go down (for the bed, this will take longer to cool down than the extruder). If it does not, turn off the printer and begin troubleshooting.
14. Move the toolhead to the limits of the X and Y axis and watch every move to confirm that the toolhead won’t leave the desired print area and hit the sides of the printer or other objects such as the motor mounts. Edit your position_min, position_endstop, and position_max as needed for each axis.
15. Move the bed up and down to the limits and watch to confirm that the bed won’t go past the desired print area. Edit your position_min, position_endstop, and position_max as needed for each axis.
16. Check your start_print, end_print, pause, and resume macros.
17. Do PID tuning for desired print temperatures of the extruder heater. Then SAVE_CONFIG
18. Do PID tuning for desired print temperatures of the bed heater. Then SAVE_CONFIG
19. Calibrate E-Steps https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/extruder_calibration.html
20. Calibrate input shaper. https://www.klipper3d.org/Measuring_Resonances.html?h=mea
21. Enable and configure axis_twist_compensation. https://www.klipper3d.org/Axis_Twist_Compensation.html
22. Calibrate axis_twist_compensation.
23. Calibrate probe z offset.
24. Update your IP/hostname address in your slicer.
25. Finely re-tune your printing profiles.
26. Happy Printing!